The task of a septic tank is water treatment, based on gravity and the breakdown of organic matter under the influence of anaerobic bacteria. The design of these devices is simple: they consist of several sections connected in series, in which separation occurs into heavy and light fractions, water and organic matter, which requires purification. Oxidation reactions occur here, then the water is clarified, freeing itself from suspended matter.

However, all these changes are not sufficient for the water to be called clean and simply discharged into water bodies or soil (the degree of purification is 60-70%). Therefore, the next stage of this option for individual sewerage in a private house is soil purification (using drainage in the form of ditches, wells, fields) or water is passed through filters (mechanical, biological).

Sewage systems with VOCs

Such stations use aerobic bacteria, which allows increasing the degree of purification to 95-98% - this is an excellent indicator. However, such bacteria require free oxygen to live, and its supply is provided by electric compressors, so these devices are energy-dependent, although they consume relatively little (about 1.5 kW per day). Another advantage of such sewage systems for the home is that the activated sludge from them is environmentally friendly , which allows it to be used as a good fertilizer for the garden or vegetable garden. However, not very much of it is formed in such units, so cleaning is required less frequently than when using septic tanks with anaerobic bacteria.

There are also combined systems that use both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. Their work has very good results. Here, the primary treatment of wastewater is carried out using aerobic bacteria, and the final treatment is carried out using aerobic bacteria.

Advantages of plastic septic tanks

Modern proposals from septic tank manufacturers use plastic as a material, and this has many advantages:

• The selected shape and thoughtful design are able to reliably withstand soil pressure, so these products are not at risk of deformation and cracking.
• These home sewerage devices are completely sealed, and wastewater is guaranteed not to enter the surrounding soil before treatment.
• The material does not react with aggressive environments and is not subject to rotting or corrosion.
• Plastic products are relatively lightweight, so they are easy to transport, and installation is quick and easy.

Such characteristics have allowed plastic septic tanks to practically displace structures made of concrete rings, which are characterized by insufficient tightness and heavy weight.

Internal sewerage diagram

In addition to the considered options for arranging the external part of the sewer system in a private house, there is also internal wiring. Its diagram includes all plumbing and household appliances that are sources of wastewater, as well as connections, fittings, risers, and pipes that allow drainage to be directed to the outside of the sewer system. The design must also include vent pipes or check valves. A correctly drawn up internal wiring diagram, taking into account the location and rules for connecting plumbing fixtures and household appliances, the correct selection of equipment and materials and conscientiously performed work is an important component of the reliability and durability of the entire system.

Price of sewerage in a private house

Sewage and water supply in a private house are the most important communications for ensuring comfortable living. Their arrangement should only be carried out by specialized companies with experienced, competent craftsmen. The price of turnkey sewerage in a private house performed by specialists will, of course, be higher than doing this work yourself or hiring seasonal workers. However, you will not receive a guarantee for such work, and no one will promise a long service life of the system. The work of professionals will begin with a study of the area (relief, soil, groundwater level, climate), water consumption per day and other features important for choosing a sewerage system in a private home will be taken into account. We offer reasonable prices for the entire range of work - contact our consultants for information.

Wastewater is an integral part of human life. It’s good if there is a centralized system for removing them, but this is not available everywhere. In this case, you need to find out how local sewerage for a country house is designed and installed.

Calculations

Before you begin any calculations, you need to become thoroughly familiar with your site. It is important to obtain data in advance about the level of groundwater, the amount of precipitation, etc. Also decide whether you will do everything yourself or hire specialists.

• We decide on the location where our future installation will be located. The distance to it should not be too great, nor should it be too close. For every centimeter of distance to a cesspool or septic tank, a pipe slope of 2-3 cm is required. If the length of the pipeline is large, then the hole will need to be made deep enough to ensure drainage. In the case where a sewer of this kind is located closer than 5 m to the foundation, wastewater can go under the building, which will lead to shrinkage and cracks of the foundation and walls. With this placement, you will need to pay special attention to the waterproofing of the entire structure. If you have a well or borehole in your yard, then the drainage receiver will need to be removed at least 30 m from them. This is important to prevent pathogens from getting into clean water. It would be good if it is possible to make it closer to the driveway so that the sewer truck has free access.
• There must be sufficient distance from lakes or rivers. The minimum distance is the same as for boreholes and wells.
• If you plan to place mini-sewage treatment plants, will there be enough territory to accommodate outlets through which water will be discharged after treatment.
• The next step is to determine the required capacity or performance of the entire system. To do this, it is important to decide how many people will permanently live in the house. Next, you can take as a basis an approximate figure, which is 0.15 m 3 per adult per day (this is the minimum).
• Now you can choose a specific system to suit your family's needs.
• Next, the appropriate materials are selected, and their total cost is calculated.

Possible options for building a system

There are several basic concepts for organizing an autonomous sewer system. Each manufacturer may make different variations, but the essence will remain the same.

• Dry toilet. It will be relevant when there is no need to dispose of water from baths and showers. During the processing of masses by aerobic bacteria, substances are formed that can be used as fertilizers.
• Cesspool. This is the option when long explanations are inappropriate. Almost everyone who has lived in a private house knows what it is. This option requires constant periodic pumping with the help of additional mechanization. Here the rule was often applied - the larger the volume, the better.
• Septic tank. This container can be either concrete or made of plastic. In the first case, reinforced concrete rings are used. Their diameter will depend on the needs of a particular family. For maximum productivity, three wells are installed. All of them are hermetically connected to each other using pipes. With plastic structures, the user already receives ready-made containers that are installed in the specified sequence. For septic tanks, periodic cleaning of sludge is also important, which is also done using a vacuum cleaner.
• Mini treatment plants. This is a whole installation with pumps and filters, which makes it possible to process a large amount of waste in a short period of time. Suitable for fairly large country houses.

cesspool

This type of sewage system has several manufacturing options:

• An ordinary pit without strengthening the walls. This type of pit is the least effective. Over time, the liquid erodes the walls, and the entire structure may collapse.
• The walls are reinforced with car tires. The service life of such a product can reach 30 years. Obviously, holes must be made in the tires so that water can freely escape through the pores.
• With wooden supports. In this case, wood linings reinforced with vertical posts are made on the walls. If you decide to make such a structure, it will cope with its tasks for 5-7 years.
• With brickwork. It is a fairly common option. It can last for about 15 years. If you periodically repair it, you can increase this figure several times.
• Pit made of concrete rings.
• With metal or plastic formwork. In these cases, either an ordinary large-diameter pipe or a container that is dug to the required depth can be used.

If you are going to build a cesspool, then it is worth weighing the strengths and weaknesses.

Positive points:

• ease of manufacture;
• relative cheapness;
• availability of materials;
• some types can be installed in conditions close to the groundwater surface.

Negative points:

• the need for frequent maintenance;
• waste removal using a vacuum truck;
• instability of building materials to the effects of wastewater;
• unpleasant odor;
• Failure to comply with location standards leads to contamination of the site.

• Sealed. In this case, a container is installed, which serves as a collector for wastewater and is periodically emptied using special equipment. It is necessary to make a concrete base and strengthen the walls to prevent damage to the tank due to soil displacement.
• Open. It can be with a filter bottom, when, before strengthening the walls, the bottom is filled with crushed stone and sand so that part of the water goes down. Also, additional holes are made along the perimeter of brick walls or in concrete rings. Over time, such a pit also needs to be cleaned.

The location for such a structure can be chosen based on the instructions given above. The manufacturing process boils down to the fact that it is necessary to dig a hole of the required size and strengthen the walls using the selected material. The supply of the pipe through which the drainage will occur is carried out simultaneously with the reinforcement of the walls. Don't forget to be technologically inclined. It is better if the depth of the pipe is below the freezing point of the soil.

It is important to ensure ventilation, which is done by bringing the pipe above the surface. This way, gases will not accumulate; this is important to prevent a fire from occurring.

Septic tank

To put it simply, a septic tank with wastewater treatment is several interconnected sealed cesspools. For their manufacture, you can use the same materials as in the previous version. The principle of operation of such a device is that the first block receives water that has just been drained from the house. It accumulates, heavy inclusions settle, and partially purified water flows into the next tank. Large particles also settle there. After the second vessel, the liquid can be discharged to a special space called filtration fields, or enter another section for more thorough cleaning.

Since anaerobic fermentation occurs at the first stage, a sufficient amount of sludge accumulates over time. It must be removed using special equipment.

If a decision is made to install not a storage septic tank, but one from which the purified liquid is removed, you will need to take care of the filtration fields. Before doing this, you need to make sure that:

• Groundwater is located at a depth of more than 1.5 m.
• It is possible to remove the filtration field as far as possible from the clean water intake (more than 30 m).
• The main soil layer is not clay. This is important, because clay does not allow moisture to pass through very well, so the efficiency of the system will tend to zero.
• Sufficient free space is available to implement the project.

When all conditions are met, you can proceed to production:

1. Sewage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are purchased.
2. A trench is dug 15–20 cm below the soil freezing level. It must be taken into account that at the bottom there must be a layer with good permeability.
3. Next, a 10 cm layer of sand is laid and compacted.
4. A layer of crushed stone is poured; it should be at least 40 cm.
5. Pipes are laid in the upper part of this layer.
6. In order to protect them during frosts, a small backfill of crushed stone is made on top and a geo-textile is laid. If there is severe frost in your area, then the structure must be insulated.
7. The next layer of the pie will be the earth, which will complete the structure.
8. At the ends of the pipes, 90˚ angles must be installed and pipes for ventilation are provided.

It is important to remember that soil self-cleaning will not last forever with constantly replenished pollutants. Therefore, after about 7 years it will be necessary to completely replace the filter layer.

Installing this type of system may require more time and effort, but its performance and efficiency are much higher than that of a conventional cesspool. In the case of septic tanks with several tanks and filtration fields, cleaning the first stage may be required once a year or even less often.

Mini treatment plant

Roughly speaking, a mini-treatment station is the same septic tank, but manufactured in a factory. Among them are the following stations:

• Anaerobic treatment. Here the main emphasis is on bacteria that contribute to the decomposition of inclusions without access to oxygen.
• Aerobic cleaning. In such systems, conditions are specially created in which the liquid is saturated with oxygen so that the bacteria can perform their tasks as quickly as possible.
• Volatile and non-volatile. Some units use pumps and electric motors, so an electrical line must be supplied to them.

Many consumers prefer ready-made designs, because... they are easier to install, the whole mechanism is debugged and worked out. Also, only in the case of such stations can water purification be achieved by 98%. This means that subsequently it can be freely used for agricultural needs. The most popular models among consumers are:

Topas. This is a completely finished structure, made of durable plastic. In order to carry out installation, it is enough to dig a pit of a suitable size. There are four chambers inside. In the first, large particles settle. After the water has settled, it enters the second section, also called the aeration tank. With the help of a compressor, air is constantly supplied here, which allows bacteria to speed up processing. After this, the liquid enters the secondary settling tank, where the sludge settles and returns to the previous tank. At a certain stage, ultraviolet cleaning is also carried out. Additionally, the unit can be equipped with a drainage pump, which will pump clean water into tanks or another selected location.

Unilos Astra. In its structure and method of functioning it resembles the previous version. But aeration here begins to occur even in the first settling tank. Thanks to this process, large particles are broken down and the wastewater is then treated.

. This option does not require an electrical power supply. Here all processes occur by gravity. The main camera is divided into two compartments. In the first section, the largest particles settle and splitting occurs. In the second chamber, post-treatment is carried out, then the water passes through the biofilter and is sent to the infiltrator - an additional container that does not have a bottom. There, the liquid undergoes the final stages of purification, seeping through a fill of crushed stone.

If you are looking for a project for a summer house, then perhaps you should go for the most inexpensive option. Remember that you can do everything yourself, but it will take more time and effort.

Video

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Types of ready-made septic tanks.

A lot has been written about the installation of local sewage systems, mainly with the aim of convincing you that it is better to entrust this matter to professionals, because it is difficult, expensive (?!), and difficult. Let's try to figure out how difficult it is, whether it's so expensive and what's hard about it.

Operating principles of local sewerage.

The main purpose of installing a local sewage system is to slow down the flow of wastewater while it is being processed (purified) by various bacteria, as well as to create the most comfortable living conditions for these bacteria. The second important condition for the normal operation of the local sewage system is timely removal from the processing area, which, in principle, follows from the main goal (otherwise we will drown, poor things).
Based on this, the main purpose of the autonomous sewer system, both the volume of the septic tank and the degree of wastewater treatment are selected. It is believed that three days is enough to process wastewater, so to speak, naturally. Therefore, the volume of the septic tank is selected based on a person’s three-day water consumption (about 0.5 cubic meters). If you make a septic tank from ready-made concrete rings, then the upper ring will not be included in the calculated volume, because the pipe entering the septic tank should be located lower. The working volume of a septic tank is considered to be the volume of wastewater filling it.
With the degree of wastewater treatment, everything is a little more complicated (unless you have a car wash or some other dirty enterprise). Here you still need to decide how, or rather, where you will discharge the purified water. If water is discharged into a pond or open drainage ditch, it would not hurt to add at least one more stage of purification. The same applies to the discharge of water through an irrigation well, the area is small - the water should be cleaner. And if you plan to make an irrigation field, then two stages of cleaning are quite enough. The irrigation field itself acts as another stage of purification.
In turn, whether to make an irrigation well or an irrigation field, and also, if a field, then what area, depends on how much water the soil on your site is ready to accept. If the soil is sandy, then a well or a small irrigation field (10-15 square meters for 3 people) is sufficient. If the soil is clayey, then sometimes 50 square meters. There are not enough meters. The solution here is either to consult with a specialist, or to make the area with a reserve, or experimentally: if it is not enough, dig another trench after a year, thus adding more area.
The desire to create comfortable conditions for the life of bacteria - workers, necessitates the mandatory presence of ventilation of the septic tank. And if you make forced ventilation, or even better, pass air through the drains, saturating them with air oxygen, this can greatly reduce the time it takes to clean them with bacteria. But here you need electricity for the compressor, and this is not always possible, and is it even necessary.

Local sewage system.

Local sewerage based on a single-stage septic tank.

It is advisable to choose a location for local sewerage not only according to the recommended distances from the house (at least 5 meters) and from sources of drinking water (at least 20 meters), but also taking into account the flow of groundwater. Accordingly, water sources (well or borehole) should be located higher upstream of the groundwater than the local sewerage system with drainage. Determining the direction of underground water flow is not difficult. Usually, it coincides with the direction to the river or stream bed closest to you. Well, it is desirable that a car can drive up to the septic tank for cleaning, although this will be extremely rare if it is constructed correctly.
I would advise laying the sewer pipe leading from the house to the septic tank with a slope greater than the recommended 3 cm per meter. This is necessary so that the water in the pipe does not move to the septic tank. Optimally, at least 5 cm per 1 linear meter, at least to a depth of 50 cm, with a soil freezing depth of 100-120 cm. It is even better if the slope is variable: the maximum is at the exit from the house, and the minimum at the entrance to the septic tank .
The ventilation riser leading to the septic tank is best done directly in the house. The higher up the pipe it is located, the less likely it is to penetrate the water seals of your equipment (toilet, bathtub, washbasin, etc.).
The difference between the levels of the pipes entering and exiting the septic tank must be at least 10 cm. The incoming pipe must end with a tee, which directs the flow of waste downward, preventing it from directly reaching the outlet pipe. The outlet is a tee with a piece of pipe for collecting the most purified wastewater, which is located approximately in the middle of the water column (there are solid deposits at the bottom, floating at the top... well, you get the idea). The same applies to any wells for wastewater treatment. Tees on pipes slow down the movement of wastewater in treatment systems, which is the main purpose of local sewerage. Therefore, it is advisable to make all other sewer and drainage pipes, except for those leading to the septic tank, with a minimum slope (3 mm per 1 meter).

Price issue.

Well, let's do the math. Let me make a reservation right away that the prices are for the summer of 2011 in the Leningrad region. Alas, we live in such a time that the numbers on price tags are a relative thing. We will calculate the cost of materials and work to create a local two-stage sewage system for three people with an irrigation field of 15 square meters. meters.
Materials:
1. Reinforced concrete ring with bottom – 2 pcs. 2*3.5=7 thousand rubles.
2. Reinforced concrete ring with lid – 2 pcs. 2*3.5=7 thousand rubles.
3. Reinforced concrete ring - 1 pc. 1*2.5=2.5 thousand rubles.
4. PVC pipe 110*3.2*2000 -10 pcs. 10*0.3=3 thousand rubles.
5. Drainage pipe 110 - 30 m 30*0.09=2.7 thousand rubles.
6. PVC tees 110*90 - 4 pcs. 4*0.25= 1.0 thousand rubles.
7. Crushed stone - 7 cubic meters. m = 9 thousand rubles.
8. Barrel for a drainage well = 0.5 thousand rubles.
9. PP pipe 50*2.2*2000 - 3 pcs. = 0.5 thousand rubles.
under the ventilation riser
10. Ventilation covers (fungi) – 3 pcs. = 0.3 thousand rubles.
11. Delivery of materials = 1.5 thousand rubles.
TOTAL - 35.0 thousand rubles.
Job:
1. Installation of reinforced concrete rings - 5 pcs. 5*2.5=12.5 thousand rubles.
2. Trenches for pipes - 50 m = 5.0 thousand rubles.
TOTAL - 17.5 thousand rubles.
Total AMOUNT - 52.5 thousand rubles.
The closest competitor is a single-stage plastic septic tank (septic tank without partitions inside) with installation and production of an irrigation field for 72 thousand rubles. I found a two-stage septic tank made of concrete rings with an irrigation well, but without an irrigation field, for 82 thousand rubles.
In addition, I deliberately inflated prices and rounded up, knowing that it would still be cheaper than ordering local sewerage through a company. A foreman I knew with whom I consulted about the cost of the work said that his team was ready to do this work for 15 thousand rubles. In addition, there are many other opportunities to save money when installing a local sewer system without compromising its performance, knowing the principles of its operation. But this, as they say, is individual. For example, I had a driver I knew who brought me crushed stone for 500 rubles per cubic meter. As a result, in 2004, my expenses for the complete arrangement of local sewerage did not exceed 15 thousand. rubles True, I did everything myself. Then I had just moved into my house, and I simply did not have money for hired workers.
Yes, digging holes for wells, and then also trenches for pipes and drains, is difficult. It seems to me that to dig or not to dig, everyone must decide for themselves. And I told you about how to make a local sewer system with your own hands, almost everything that I knew myself. Almost, but not all.

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Reviews (16) on “Design and principles of operation of local sewerage.”

I have been using this station for 3 years now and I can explain the following: if they promise you that you will not approach the station at all and will forget where your waste goes, then this is a CHEAT. In addition to maintenance according to the regulations, the passport states that you need to observe the condition once every 2 weeks, but in reality you have to do this once every 2 days. Let me explain: A strong factor is the quality of water (hardness, the presence of impurities), so my water is rich in iron and lime and as a result we get poorly living bacteria, the air supply jets to the pumps are constantly clogged (I think there is no need to explain how lime and moisture gets into the jets ), the result of all this: smell, dirt at the exit, waste of time. FULL cleaning every 3 months. At first I called specialists from the company, but when I got tired of paying a decent amount of money for cleaning and repairs every time. I learned to make the kits (jet jets, pumps, aerobic element, etc.) myself. Bottom line: think before buying stations of this type and principle, there is no better pit made of rings, all the costs for deka more than cover the costs of a pit made of rings with the need to pump out for 10 years. Thank you

And 2nd water intake barrel with or without a bottom?

1 barrel with a bottom receptacle for large waste at a depth of 1.5 m. On top there is a foam plastic cap 1.2 high to prevent it from freezing. The second barrel with the bottom is even lower and also with a chopper (larger). From it there is a pipe in the irrigation field. How can I prevent it from freezing?

If 2 people live in a dacha. Is it possible to make a sewer system from 2 227 liter barrels and an irrigation field (toilet included)? How to make it winter too? Is the water level high?

1. Hello Anna.
   Unfortunately, a full-fledged local sewage system will not work. Because for a septic tank, the first barrel with a bottom, as a receiver of “solid” waste, the so-called working volume is very important. It is calculated on average at 0.5 m3 per person, based on an estimated water consumption per person of only about 150 liters per day. This includes everything consumed, i.e. water consumed by a person, including washing dishes, laundry, etc., and not just water procedures and going to the toilet. It is important that the wastewater in the septic tank can linger for a period of three days. This is exactly the period needed for the primary processing of wastewater by bacteria. Anything less. The sewer will simply become clogged and, as a result, the entire sewer will turn into one “cesspool”, which is also inaccessible for cleaning. Or you can use a sewer system built on other types of bacteria (aerobic), but this is expensive...
   So, of course, it is possible to make a sewer system from two barrels. But it won’t work fully.
   Making a sewer system “winter” is very simple. You need to dig and bury deeper - that’s the whole secret. Accordingly, the bottom of the sewer pipe entering the septic tank must be at a depth not less than the minimum level of soil freezing, approximately 70 cm (depending on the region) and deeper. The “working volume” of the septic tank is measured from the same depth, even if its walls rise higher. And then everything is built according to the logic of observing the slope for the movement of wastewater through the pipes. Those. the exit from the septic tank is from 80 cm and deeper, the exit from the “second” water clarification barrel is 1.0 meter and deeper already on the irrigation field, where drainage pipes are also laid with a slope.
   If the groundwater level is high and the soil is clayey, much attention will have to be paid to the irrigation field. Its estimated area in this case can reach up to 30-50 square meters. meters per person (approximately 60-100 linear meters of drainage pipe), whereas, usually, it does not exceed 15-20 sq. meters per person.
   So you will have to dig and pour crushed stone in large quantities...

Vadim, thank you for your prompt response, written in very competent language. We are from Pskov, almost the Leningrad region. Then we will make the first well from 3 reinforced concrete rings and the second from 2. But I just don’t understand the second one, with or without a bottom? It just turns out that we will have a septic tank 10 m from the well. But there is an opportunity to take the wastewater far into the filter field. How do you recommend sealing the place where the pipes enter the septic tank and the bottom? The depth of the first well is clear. The second one is lower. And then the output to the filter field also turns out to be necessary to manage to do it at a level of 1.2 m, and even with a slope?

1. Anna, the dilemma with the second well, whether you need a bottom or not, is resolved very simply.
   The first factor: how far it will be located from the water source (well, well). It is advisable that the place where water passes into the ground is at least 20-25 meters away from the source. The deeper the source, the shorter the distance can be, and vice versa. Accordingly, if the second well is supposed to be placed closer to the source, then you need to make a bottom, or buy a ring with a bottom. By the way, the same factor affects the placement of the irrigation field. Those. if the distances are not respected, then it is necessary to carry the water further with ordinary pipes rather than drainage pipes, using drainage only at a certain distance.
   The second factor: soil composition. If at the depth of the bottom of the second well there is a waterproof clay layer, then this in itself is the bottom. Because the rate of water penetration in clay is very low, and filtration is high. That is, in this case it is not necessary to specially make the bottom of the well. In principle, this also applies to the septic tank itself, however, a septic tank with a clay bottom is quite difficult to clean if necessary.

   Maybe this will be a revelation for you, but the places where sewer pipes enter and exit into the septic tank and wells are not sealed or are sealed with simple means, the same clay. It is not necessary. At the entrance to the septic tank, the pipe is always “dry”, therefore the entrance is located above the working level. The exit, if done correctly, from the inside of the septic tank becomes clogged with “solid” waste, and only purified water gets into the pipe itself (look carefully at the picture in the article, it enlarges if you click on it).

   Yes, the access to the irrigation field is quite deep. But further pipes are laid with a minimum slope of 3-5 mm per meter, almost horizontally. Therefore, the difference in depths in the irrigation field is small; for 50 meters of pipe it is only 15-30 cm. Another thing is important. It is important that a crushed stone cushion of at least 10-20 cm should be laid under the drainage pipes. This further deepens the trenches under the irrigation field, but there is no other way. The water has to go somewhere, and the easiest way is for it to go down. By the way, trenches are dug about 50 cm wide (three bayonets at the top), and the entire width is filled with crushed stone. The height of the entire pillow is at least 30 cm, with a drainage pipe in the middle. A soil separating material, ideally geofabric, is placed on the cushion. And only then is this “pie” buried.

Vadim, thank you very much for your work! In May, while planting potatoes, we accidentally carried out georeconnaissance. 10_15 cm of fertile soil, 90_100 cm of red dark sand, then clay and digging is very difficult. That is, on average, at 1.2 m we have a clay layer that is difficult to dig. In connection with this, the idea of ​​a septic tank arose from 2 or 3 (is it necessary???) rings one by one with a bottom with a diameter of 1.5 or 2 m. The volume is good even with 2 rings and it is easier to bury 1 ring separately. Well, then you will have to bury the irrigation well/barrel rather deeply, make an irrigation tunnel through a double from the last well - 2 perforated pipes, sprinkled with gravel/sand, wrapped in geofabric; the ends of the pipes rest against a common drainage ditch. What do you think of the scheme?!

1. Hello Anna.
   In principle, it is the volume that is important for a septic tank to reduce the speed of movement of wastewater. The septic tank needs depth only to prevent it from freezing due to soil freezing. And if you use the septic tank all year round, without breaks, then its depth can be reduced, because... the warm (relatively) water entering it will warm it up.
   Thus, a septic tank can be made from two rings of increased diameter to create volume. True, it will still turn out to be deeper than 1.2 meters with a meter height of the rings. But there will be a gain in reducing the labor intensity of digging trenches.
   It is important to correctly calculate and make slopes so that there is still movement of water. It should look something like this. The entrance to the septic tank will be at a depth of 60-70 cm, the exit - 70-80 cm. The entrance to the drainage well (second stage or irrigation barrel) can be made at the same 70-80 cm, taking into account the minimum required slope, the exit - at least 75 -85 cm. Next - access to the irrigation field with minimal slopes to a depth of 110 cm. If the soil allows, the depth can be increased to 120-130 cm.
   And lastly... I doubt that the depth of your “general drainage ditch” is 110-120 cm, most likely less. And experience suggests that the ends of the pipes should “rest” against some kind of “collection”, where the water will carry the remnants of “unrecycled” wastewater. Otherwise, the drainage pipes will slowly become clogged with them, reducing the efficiency of their work. The volume of the collection may be small. In order not to overwork, you can bury half a metal barrel, placing them on the already familiar crushed stone bed. Naturally, this half should be covered on top with something that rots badly.
   Otherwise, the scheme you described is correct...

Oh, now I drew a picture and realized that due to the depth of freezing, the entrance to 1 well will have to be made at 70-80 cm, and then you need 2 more rings down. There is no point in taking 1.5ks. It should be like yours according to the classic 3+2 scheme. So? if you buy rings already with a bottom, then you need to use a miniexc, because it’s very difficult to dig and lower in such soil

Oh, and if 1.5ks are buried at a depth of 70 cm, then from what then are these 70 cm obtained to reach the surface and service? And with 2 wells under a meter this distance will work out. Should we bury it tightly? Our ditch is 80 cm long. The water in it is rare and low. Only in the spring. If at the end we make barrel receivers with crushed stone and sand, which will stand in front of the ditch, is it then necessary to perforate the pipes after the sump and lay them in a trench with crushed stone sand?

1. Anna, this distance cannot be reached by anything. The septic tank is made with the top level with the horizon of the earth. At least this is the design of septic tanks made of concrete rings. A maintenance hatch is made in the top cover and, sometimes, ventilation pipes are removed. The second well - yes, you can bury it “tightly”. It requires no maintenance. Or make it the same way - elongated in height. By the way, such wells are available for sale.
   “Receivers” are needed for residual water. Basic “irrigation”, i.e. filtration of water into the soil will occur precisely due to perforated drainage pipes and a filtration field organized for them (the same crushed stone and sand). So “receivers” or “collectors” are one thing, but they do not replace drainage pipes in trenches, but complement them.

Vadim was buried on a septic tank made of concrete rings by a mountain crew. 1 chamber with a bottom made of 2 rings. 2 chamber is the same. From it there is a red pipe into a perforated barrel without a bottom 220 liters. Around the barrel and under it everything was covered with rubble. From the barrel the lower red pipe goes at a slight slope to the bottom of the road ditch behind the site. They did it with grief in half. Because the soil was crumbling a lot. Everyone was in a hurry. When we arrived a week later, we discovered that there was water up to the lids in all the chambers and the filter well. It rained during the week. but not torrential. When all the chambers were pumped out with a drainer, it became clear that groundwater was flowing into them through the pipe inlets coated with TsPS and liquid glass and along the perimeter of the connection, the top and bottom ring. Coated with the same composition. And water from the filter well also pours into the 2nd chamber. Because the slope is not too steep. And in the filter well, water can rise even higher due to groundwater. The filter well is buried at a depth of about 50 cm from the top. The height is about 1 m. So, in addition to natural groundwater, water from the road ditch also gets into it through a pipe, since the slope is also small. As I understand now, you can only put up with this because of the high ground level. You can only better seal the first 2 chambers. How and what is the best way to do this?

1. I don't know, Anna. In my opinion, this is not a solution. “It’s better to seal” the first two chambers also makes no sense if water has the ability to pass through them in reverse due to its higher level in the soil. Accordingly, she will fill them out in any case.
   And there are only two ways out here.
   The first one, really, is to come to terms with it, put a drainage pump in the filter well and put it on automatic duty, making the water exit from it somewhere further away, so that it is more difficult for the water to return.
   Second. Make at least partial drainage of the area. Partial - in the sense of making drainage of the area where you have a sewer system. I understand that this is a huge amount of work, but first of all, there is always the first option. And secondly, a bonus to a functioning sewer system will be a relatively dry area and a slightly lower groundwater level, thanks to your efforts.

Vadim, what is the best way to drain this area? Using perforated pipes in geotextile, leading them into the road ditch? As I understand it, this can help with rainwater, so that the water leaves faster after rain. But this is unlikely to lower the overall water level...

1. Yes, Anna, that's right. However, this method works if the general drainage system is “alive”. Judging by the wells you have filled, the drainage system around your site has long been “dead.” After all, like any other system, it needs maintenance and “repairs,” which we haven’t done for a long time.
   Another way is to construct a special drainage reservoir where all drainage from the site is drained. And the site itself rises slightly due to the distribution of the excavated soil. Such a special pond, which is entrusted with a very important job.

Vadim, so we need to clean and deepen the ditches around the perimeter of the site? Another question, if we clean the ditch opposite us, then all the water will theoretically stand up in this ditch, it would be nice if the neighbors below us cleaned it further, so that it would roll lower along the natural slope.

1. Yes, Anna, cleaning and deepening drainage ditches is a complex matter and cannot be solved in one area. At one time, when the system was conceived and made, it was not the site that was taken into account, but the region. Usually, in the lowlands of such an area, a fire reservoir was built, where all the drainage was drained. This is if the area does not have another drainage point, such as a stream, river, etc.

Sewage disposal is one of the difficulties faced by the owner of a country house or cottage. If installed incorrectly, it can become a source of unpleasant odor and disrupt the ecological balance on the site, so when designing it is important to take into account all sanitary standards. This article will tell you about the types of local sewer systems and methods of their installation.

Sewage system in a private house

The main difference between local sewerage and centralized sewerage is the need for independent neutralization and neutralization of wastewater. When connecting to a centralized sewer system, an internal one must be installed to connect to a common collector or riser.

Mounting a local system is somewhat more difficult, because it consists of:

• internal wiring;
• external sewer network;
• , sump or .

Install. It is a system of pipes connected to plumbing fixtures. The diameter of the pipes is different: for drainage from a sink or sink, Ø40 mm is sufficient, for a bath or shower – Ø50 mm, for fecal drains, sun beds and risers – Ø110 mm. Currently, pipes made of PP or PVC are mainly used; in old houses you can still find cast iron pipes.

Plastic sewer pipes have many advantages: light weight, easy installation, smooth internal walls that prevent the formation of plaque and deposits. For internal installation, gray pipes are used - they are resistant to high wastewater temperatures.

For external wiring, high-strength plastic pipes are used - when laid in the ground, they must withstand its weight. They can be distinguished by the orange color of the plastic - it is clearly visible in the ground, which reduces the likelihood of damage to the laid sewer during excavation work.

Plastic pipes are connected with O-rings or special glue, and the socket should be located against the flow of water. Branches and turns are made using special fittings - couplings, bends, tees and crosses. When connecting, it is important to avoid sharp and right angles that contribute to the formation of blockages.

Receivers for local sewerage can be of several types:

• sealed wells;
• wells with a filter bottom;
• settling wells;
• septic tanks with mechanical cleaning;
• biological treatment stations.

Septic tanks purify wastewater much better, and the purified water entering the soil is safe for the environment. Biological treatment stations produce purified process water at the outlet, suitable for watering gardens, as well as fertile sludge.

When considering the feasibility of installing a particular system, it is important to consider several factors:

• volumes and composition of wastewater;
• area of ​​the site and its relief;
• proximity to water sources and reservoirs;
• proximity to groundwater and the possibility of flooding;
• region of installation and its climatic features.

The volume of wastewater is calculated based on the composition of the family; 200 liters per day for sanitary needs is taken as the norm; it is also necessary to take into account the water consumed by the washing machine or dishwasher.

The wastewater may contain only water for domestic and sanitary needs or its mixture with fecal wastewater. In the second case, effective cleaning is possible only by installing a sealed container, settling tank system, septic tank or biological treatment station. Wells with a filter bottom do not do a good job of cleaning mixed wastewater; in this case, a persistent unpleasant odor may appear. Another option is to separate the drains and use different treatment methods for them.

The possibility of installing sewerage in accordance with sanitary standards depends on the area of ​​the site. and other objects must be no less than those shown in the figure. If these requirements are not met, it is better to install a sealed storage tank or biological treatment station.

Note! On a small dacha plot with water drawn from a well, the easiest way is to separate the wastewater: drain water for domestic and sanitary purposes through a sewer into a well or septic tank, and provide for human waste.

If groundwater is close and there is a possibility of flooding, the installation of local sewerage must be carried out taking into account these conditions. Flooding a well or sump can lead to contamination of the soil and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. If there is a sharp rise in groundwater, the septic tank may float up, which will lead to the destruction of the external sewerage system.

A septic tank poorly anchored in the ground after flooding

There are several standard solutions to this problem:

• installation of a sealed storage tank that prevents the influx of groundwater;
• installation of a vertical septic tank with anchoring;
• arrangement of a drainage system for drainage of groundwater;
• in case of poor absorption of treated wastewater, installation of forced pumping and a post-treatment system.

The climatic conditions of the region affect the possibility of freezing of the system. External sewerage pipes are laid below the freezing level of the soil or insulated and equipped with a heating system using a special electric cable. A septic tank and biological treatment station in cold regions also need insulation.

Note! When installing a storage tank or septic tank, it is important to provide convenient access for the sewer truck!

Installation of internal sewerage

The rules for installing internal sewer lines do not depend on the type of septic tank and are always carried out using the same technology. Before starting installation work, it is necessary to draw a sketch indicating all plumbing fixtures and room dimensions.

If plumbing fixtures are installed on two or more floors, they try to place them one above the other - this facilitates the operation of the sewer system and reduces the number of communications. Based on the sketch, the required number of pipes and fittings is calculated.

Tools required for work:

• hacksaw for plastic or metal;
• fine-grained file;
• level and tape measure;
• clamps for attaching pipes to the wall.

When installing pipes, they try to select them in such a way as to obtain a minimum number of connections. If it is necessary to cut pipes, use a hacksaw or jigsaw with fine teeth. The required section is sawed off strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, the burrs are cut off with a sharp knife, and the outer side is chamfered at 15° using a fine-grained file.

Note! Connecting fittings must not be cut! They are selected from the available assortment, and adjustment is made using straight sections of pipes.

The pipes are connected using an O-ring or sealant. Installation with an O-ring is easier and takes less time. To connect the pipes, cut off sections of the required length, as described above, lubricate them with silicone grease (if the pipes fit tightly) or liquid soap to facilitate sliding, and insert the smooth end of the pipe into the socket until the notch. After this, the pipe is removed in the opposite direction by 9-11 mm. This allows the ring to seal the joint tightly and also provides clearance for thermal expansion.

Step 1. Installation of internal sewerage begins with the installation of risers. They are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, installed strictly vertically. The installation location of the risers is determined by the project; most often they are located in the bathroom or toilet. The pipes are leveled and secured to the wall with clamps. When connecting straight sections of pipes, make sure that the sockets are directed upwards. Tees or bends are installed in the right places.

Step 2. At each turn or branch, in places where congestion is most likely to occur, the sewer risers are equipped with an inspection. If pipes are laid hidden in the wall, an inspection hatch must be installed at the inspection site.

Step 3. Each riser is equipped with a drain pipe of the same diameter, led through the ceilings to the street. It (the pipe) is necessary to remove gases and reduce noise in pipes; it cannot be combined with a chimney or ventilation system!

Step 4. Horizontal sections of sewerage are installed to the risers through installed tees and bends. Their length should not exceed 10 m, and it is necessary to ensure a slope of 2 cm per 1 linear line. m for pipes Ø110 mm and 3 cm per 1 linear. m for pipes Ø50 mm. If it is necessary to turn 90 degrees, use two 45-degree bends or three 30-degree bends - this will ensure a smooth transition and reduce the likelihood of blockages.

Step 5. Horizontal sections at the joints are also equipped with a revision - a tee with a lid. The branch of the tee is installed straight up so that water does not leak through it.

Step 6. Connection to plumbing fixtures is made using a siphon - it prevents gases from the sewer from entering the room. In addition, debris, sand and other contaminants accumulate at the bottom of the siphon, which can lead to clogged pipes. They can be easily removed during inspection using a removable lid.

The diameter of the pipes for connecting the points must correspond to the diameter of their outlet. The transition between pipes is carried out using a transition coupling or, when combining pipes from several devices, using tees with different branch diameters.

Step 7 The toilet is connected to a horizontal pipe Ø110 mm using bends or a flexible coupling (depending on its design and type of outlet). In this case, the water seal is provided by the design of the toilet.

Step 8 The risers, and in one-story houses - horizontal pipes, are connected to the external sewerage system. It is better to do this by connecting three outlets at 30 degrees - this will ensure a smooth drainage of water.

Note! When using a sealed storage container, it is recommended to install a check valve at the exit from the house to prevent the escape of foul gases.

Prices for sewer inspection

sewer inspection

Installation of external sewer network

For the external sewer network, high-strength plastic pipes of orange color or cast iron are used. The depth of laying pipes without insulation and heating should be below the depth of soil freezing.

Step 1. Prepare a pit for laying pipes using special equipment or manually. The trench should be as straight as possible, without turns. Its length of more than 20 meters is undesirable, since to ensure the required slope the pipe and septic tank will have to be deeply buried.

Step 2. They lay pipes, connecting them in the same way as pipes for internal sewerage. When laying, observe the required slope in all areas; to ensure this, you can use sand filling with its pouring and compaction.

Step 3. The passage of the pipe through the foundation is carried out through metal sleeves laid at the stage of pouring the foundation. They are sections of metal pipe with a diameter of 130-160 mm, passing through the foundation at a depth below freezing of the soil at an angle of 2-3 degrees. The ends of the pipes must be exposed on both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm. The pipe is brought inside the basement and connected to the outlet of the internal sewage system of the dacha. What's happened , you can read in our article.

Step 4. The second end of the external sewer network is discharged into a septic tank or settling tank of the selected type. When using an industrial septic tank, it is enough to connect the pipe to the inlet pipe. When installing a concrete well, the pipe is inserted into the prepared hole, wrapped in foam insulation to avoid damage. Cover the insertion site with cement mortar.

Step 5. The trench is backfilled with soil removed from it. On wet and heavy soils, especially when laying pipes with heating cables, it is recommended to first fill the pipes with coarse sand in a layer of 20-30 cm, and then with natural soil. This will improve the flow of groundwater and prevent freezing.

Installation of a sealed sump

A concrete well with a concreted bottom and plastered joints can serve as a sealed wastewater receiver. It is installed no closer than 5 m from the walls of a residential building and 2 m from the neighboring plot.

Step 1. Prepare a pit for concrete rings of the required depth with a diameter 20-30 cm larger than the diameter of the rings. It is better to carry out work in dry weather immediately before installing the well, so that the soil does not crumble.

Step 2. Install the bottom of the well and the required number of rings (usually no more than three). The joints are sealed with cement-sand mortar.

Step 3. An external sewer pipe is inserted into the well, as described above. Carefully isolate the joint using foam material and cement mortar.

Step 4. Cover the well with a lid and install a hatch for pumping, as well as a ventilation pipe through which gases will be removed from the well. This pipe must be above the breathing zone.

Step 5. Backfilling is done with sand mixed with dry cement. When the soil is moistened, the cement will set, which will ensure reliable fixation of the well and sealing of microcracks and pores in the concrete.

Note! Instead of a concrete well, you can use a plastic container - for example.

Installation of a well with a filtration bottom

A special feature of a filtration well is its ability to purify wastewater due to the activity of soil microorganisms. The volume of wastewater is limited (1 m3 per day); the well itself is placed no closer than 5 m to a residential building.

Step 1. They dig a pit measuring 2x2 m and 2.5 m deep. Its walls are covered with geotextiles, and 0.5 m of coarse sand is poured onto the bottom.

Step 2. A 0.5 m layer of crushed stone is poured onto the sand, leveled and a plastic filtration well with perforated walls in the lower third of its height is installed. The walls of the well are also wrapped with geotextiles.

Step 3. The walls of the pit prepared for the drainage well are wrapped with geotextiles. A layer of sand 0.4-0.5 m thick is poured onto the bottom, then a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness. A drainage well made of perforated concrete rings is installed. Place a Ø50 mm pipe into the filtration well, ensuring a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter of pipe length. Backfilling is carried out first with crushed stone, and the upper 0.3-0.4 m with soil removed during the preparation of the pit. The well is equipped with a lid with a hatch and a ventilation pipe.

Note! A well with a filtration bottom can also be made from concrete rings, bricks, car or tractor tires.

Installation of settling wells

A system with settling tanks is an improved version of a filtration well. It consists of two wells connected in series, with the first well having a sealed concrete bottom, and the second being equipped with a filtration bottom layer.

In the first well, the wastewater settles and is separated into a solid fraction, which settles to the bottom, and settled water. Through an overflow pipe, water from the first well flows into the second, where residual filtration and wastewater neutralization by soil bacteria occurs.

The advantage of such a system is that it allows you to efficiently process large volumes of wastewater, especially when installing several sealed settling tanks. The solid fraction from them is pumped out periodically (about once a year).

A simplified version of the sump is a perforated pipe laid in a layer of crushed stone over a sand bed.

Step 1. Excavation pits are being prepared for sealed and filtration wells. The technology for their preparation is described in the previous sections.

Step 2. Install a sealed well with a concrete bottom. Install an inlet pipe Ø110 mm and an overflow pipe Ø50 mm so that the height difference between them is approximately 20-30 cm. The well is equipped with a lid and a hatch.

Step 3. A drainage well is installed from concrete rings placed on a layer of crushed stone over sand preparation. To avoid silting, the crushed stone is wrapped in geotextile. Place a Ø50 mm pipe into the filtration well, ensuring a slope of 3 cm per 1 m of pipe length. Equipped with a lid with a hatch and a ventilation pipe. Backfilling is carried out with soil removed during the preparation of the pit.

Note! Specialized plastic containers can be used as wells, but it is important to provide good drainage so that the sealed container does not float up.

Installation of a mechanical septic tank

The principle of operation of a mechanical septic tank is generally similar to a system of settling wells: several chambers are placed in a durable plastic casing, connected by an overflow pipe.

Once inside the septic tank, the wastewater is divided into fractions, clarified and treated with anaerobic bacteria. Water, purified by 80-90%, after the septic tank enters the filtration chamber or filtration field, where post-treatment occurs.

The septic tank is installed at a distance of 5-15 m from the walls of a residential building, the filtration chamber is installed in any convenient place on the site, the maximum distance to the septic tank is limited to 40-50 meters. The volume of the septic tank is determined by the number of family members permanently residing in the house, and you can use the data from the table as a guide.

Table 1. Required volume of septic tank.

Installation sequence

Step 1. They are preparing pits for a septic tank and a filtration chamber. A layer of sand 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the septic tank pit to level the bottom and prevent damage to the septic tank by stones or other solid inclusions. The bottom of the pit for the filtration chamber is covered with geotextile and covered with crushed stone to a depth of 40-50 cm.

Step 2. Place the septic tank and filtration chamber on the prepared base. Connect the pipes using a level and ensuring the desired slope. The supply pipe must be equipped with a branch for ventilation if a vent pipe is not installed in the risers. The filtration chamber is also equipped with ventilation.

Step 3. The pits are backfilled. The space around the septic tank is covered with a sand-cement mixture to avoid its displacement or floating. The filtration chamber is filled with ordinary sand. The sand layer is 15 cm higher than the upper level of the chambers.

Step 4. A layer of insulation – foam plastic in slabs – is laid on top of the sand. Cover with soil right up to the surface. The hatch for pumping out sludge should be located 10-15 cm above the backfill level, and convenient access for a sewage truck must be provided to it.

Note! The given figures and installation technology are general; specific conditions can be determined for a specific septic tank model.

Installation of a biological treatment station

Biological treatment stations differ from septic tanks in that they process wastewater more intensively, but given the price, they are rarely installed in a private home. The structure of the biological treatment station is shown in the figure.

Video - Autonomous sewage system for a country house

As can be seen from the article, localization in a country house can be implemented in many ways, from relatively simple and inexpensive to high-tech. With the right choice of cleaning system, you can provide the necessary level of comfort both in a comfortable cottage and in a small country house.

It is impossible to imagine a well-equipped country house without a widely branched system of highways used to discharge the remains of human activity (sewage and waste) into the treatment pit. In this article we will tell you how to make a sewer system for a country house with your own hands.

Many modern automated sewerage systems are sold on the market for relevant services, but many summer residents prefer to work according to the old proven scheme. Indeed, the technology for making sewerage in a country house is quite simple, so anyone can master it on their own, without the involvement of third-party workers. This will help save money.

A modern sewerage system is a complete complex of treatment facilities, which usually includes special equipment, pipelines, and a cesspool (the so-called septic tank). The main purpose of complexes of this kind is the collection of waste water from generation centers and transportation to a facility where they must be completely or partially disposed of.

Taking into account all the above requirements, external sewerage in a country house may include the following components:

• special collection trays used to collect waste;
• pipelines or channels ensuring their unhindered transportation to the sump (external sewerage);
• cesspool or septic tank (septic tank).

Thus, the arrangement of the sewer system of a country house should become a reliable guarantee of maintaining comfortable living conditions in it.

Note! Mistakes made during the sewer design process are fraught with unpredictable consequences, including the possibility of permanent blockages. With such violations, there is a high probability of poisoning nearby areas of the territory with fecal waste (including nearby sources of clean drinking water).

External part of the sewer

The external circuit of a domestic sewer system includes a system of pipelines used to transport wastewater in the direction of a cesspool or sump. Autonomous settling tanks are also most often included in a comprehensive system of treatment facilities. Note that wastewater can be transported in a suburban area in two ways: by gravity (the so-called drainage sewer) or under pressure, using a pump installed in the system.

Note! Before starting work on laying a sewage system for wastewater, you will need to decide on the method of delivering waste to the sump, since the choice of where to prepare the drainage well and its depth will depend on this.

Naturally, when using a drainage drainage option, the level of the cesspool should be lower than the level of the pipeline route, which is installed in this case with a slight slope. If the second option for delivering waste to the sump (with the help of additional pumps that create the required flow pressure) is more suitable for you, you can place the cesspool in any place convenient for you.

The route for wiring sewer pipes is not limited in any way and can be chosen arbitrarily (based on the convenience of carrying out excavation work). If you do not want to have troubles associated with the operation of your sewer system, try to lay the pipes in such a way that their bend angle is always more than 90 degrees (which will eliminate the possibility of blockages in them). When choosing a location for a treatment pit, the requirement that it be removed from the residential complex by at least 6–7 meters must be met.

The simplest and most common version of an autonomous sump is considered a conventional cesspool. The principle of operation of a classic cesspool is quite simple and is as follows. Sewage that enters the sump through sewer pipes gradually accumulates in it, after which the light fractions are disposed of by seeping into the soil. After the pit is completely filled with heavy fractions, they are pumped out of it using special mechanisms (usually special vehicles from local sewage disposal services are rented for these purposes).

Installation of external drainage sewage system

As a rule, the installation of sewerage in a country house begins after the walls and roof of the main building have already been completely erected.

Sequence of work:

1. First of all, a trench is dug, running from the waste collectors to the sump itself. To ensure the independent movement of wastewater through the pipeline, the bottom of the trench is arranged with a slight slope (2–2.4 cm per 1 m of length).
2. Upon completion of the preparation of the trench, its bottom is covered with a sand cushion along its entire length (up to the junction with the storage sump).
3. After this, you can proceed to the direct laying of the pipes that form the waste main. The junction of the last pipe with the sump will need to be thoroughly sealed, thoroughly coated with sealant.
4. Now you need to make a filtering field, connecting everything into a single system. You can read about the technology for manufacturing the filtration field.

• During installation, it is advisable to place polypropylene pipes in special concrete boxes, which will allow you to protect them from accidental damage. But polyvinyl chloride pipes can be laid directly in the soil (without using a protective casing of one type or another).
• The depth of laying sewer pipes is selected taking into account the requirement that sewer lines be located slightly above the soil freezing level in this place. This indicator is not standardized for each specific case, but is selected individually for a given climatic region. According to geophysical studies for the middle zone, it is about 1.3 meters.
• In the event of severe winters in your region, it will be necessary to additionally insulate the pipeline with the most convenient type of insulation material for you.

Making a cesspool

First of all, it should be noted that in accordance with SES standards, the volume of the sewage pit should be selected at the rate of 0.6–0.7 m³ per resident. In addition, the choice of a structure suitable for your area (as well as materials for its manufacture and location) is regulated by a whole set of provisions and rules, the implementation of which is mandatory under any conditions. It is necessary to be guided by these standards in order to avoid the subsequent release of waste into nearby sources of drinking water, as well as to eliminate the impact of wastewater on surrounding vegetation.

To construct the pit, it is recommended to use the most readily available material, sold at any reinforced concrete warehouse. These are concrete rings with an outer diameter of about 2 meters and a height of 1.2 meters. When choosing a place for a hole, pay attention to the fact that it is located in a low area, which will significantly facilitate the operating conditions of the drainage (gravity) drainage system. Also, take care of a convenient area around the sump that the sewer truck can drive into.

Note! When digging a pit for a cesspool, it is necessary to take into account the diameter allowance for ease of installation of rings and for waterproofing.

As you go deeper into the ground, carefully level the walls of the pit (a regular building level is often used for these purposes). The depth of the well should be calculated taking into account that the cut of the upper ring is slightly below the soil level. This is explained by the fact that the well will be covered from above with a special concrete slab equipped with a hatch.

Before installing the first ring in the hole, its bottom must be reinforced and carefully concreted. All subsequent rings are fixed to the previous workpieces using special reinforcement elements; in this case, the gaps between the walls are sealed with concrete mortar.

You can watch a video on arranging a sewer system for a country house on any of the sites dedicated to this topic.

Video

This video explains how to properly lay sewer pipes in a country house: