Metal tracks, in my opinion, have today become an inevitable and necessary attribute of any model of tracked vehicles. The advantages of metal are associated with three properties:

• The ability to show realistic “sagging” of the tracks, especially on models with support rollers.
• Natural shine of bare metal when tinting tracks, instead of often unnatural metallic paints. This is achieved with regular sandpaper at the last stage of tinting.
• Easy to assemble (with some experience)

Plastic tracks, like resin ones, are often more difficult to assemble, especially in terms of simulating sag and when adjusting/joining the tape along the length. Soft styrene tracks (“rubber”) have the same drawback - additional homemade fastening elements are required to simulate sagging. In addition, they are difficult to clean and leave unsightly marks at the attachment points.

1. Analysis of the situation and purchase of metal tracks.

When starting to assemble a model (or just planning it), you should find out which tracks are in the kit. Models from Tamiya and, for example, Zvezda, and many others, are equipped with styrene tracks, which I personally throw in the trash and definitely replace with metal. Very rough, inflexible “rubber”. “Dragon” models can have old plastic tracks, which are difficult to process and assemble, or new Magic Tracks, which require almost no processing, or “rubber” Dragon Styrene. Prefabricated tracks can be assembled in the form of a “working”, that is, moving belt, but as a rule, without glue, this entire structure falls apart. Quite unreliable fastenings. The parts themselves are often fragile and break when separated from the sprues.

Styrene tracks can be left only if there is no metal alternative. Fresh samples of DragonStyrene in new models are of quite high quality, very soft, which makes it easier to simulate sagging and do not require processing.

AFV Club produces good plastic tracks for their own kits, but for some money... Often, these are complex tracks that simply cannot be adequately embodied in metal.

Resin tracks are fragile and difficult to assemble. They are fixed only with superglue (if not “working”).

Some manufacturers, such as Trumpeter, duplicate the tracks, inserting both styrene and plastic. Sometimes, as I did with the resin model of the CAT9R bulldozer, the resin tracks can be drilled out and made workable using wire. In most cases, I decide to replace plastic or rubber tracks with metal, but in each specific case you need to look at everything pro et contra. For some models, metal tracks are simply not produced yet. In some cases, plastic tracks are more realistic (for example, for Sherman tanks)

2. Starting assembly.

Friulmodel track kits are equipped with: metal track parts, sometimes metal sprockets (drive rollers) or guide rollers, and wire for mounting the belts.
We need a certain tool:

• Super glue. I use Contact Gel cyanoacrylate glue. Sold at any hardware store, about 35-45 rubles.
• Rubber mat. Not necessarily, I’m just used to building models on Tamiya’s “self-healing” A3 mat.
• Mask and glasses. Necessarily! The glue is very toxic; a respirator and room ventilation are required. Glasses - from random metal fragments.
• Hard plastic wire cutting base (or board)
• Model knife, wire cutters, ruler, needle file (preferably diamond), micro drills with a hand clamp.
• Do not use a drill for drilling tracks!!! Very dangerous!

3. Processing of parts.

The metal tracks have some flash marks and burrs that need to be treated. I first use a sharp pattern knife to clear the flash, then I use a diamond file to go over the ends of the parts that tend to have rough edges. I must say that in the last couple of years the tracks have become much better and often require very minimal cleaning.

4. Holes.

The holes for the fingers are sometimes clogged with flash, and the wire will not fit into them. So, as a precaution, it’s better to go through all the parts with a drill so that there are no delays during assembly in the future.
You need to choose a drill of the same caliber as the wire, no more, otherwise your fingers will dangle like a fish in an ice hole))) Usually this is 0.3 mm, for large tracks like the IS-2 - 0.5 mm.
You can also use an awl in some severe cases when the hole is completely filled.
But I usually immediately put such defective tracks aside, since the set always has a supply of 20-30 tracks.

5. Fingers.

Some people use wire cutters when installing metal tracks, but I don't recommend it for one reason: when you bite off the wire with wire cutters, you leave a wider, flattened tip that most likely won't fit into the finger hole. Although this method is noticeably faster...
I use a knife, a large Tamiya pattern knife (aka OLFA) and a hard plastic backing to cut the wire in advance using my fingers to the desired length. To do this, a test sample is measured, a standard is made, and all the wire is cut to its length. The finger should stick out no more than 1 mm.
Trick: You can cut the wire at an angle so that the end of the finger becomes pointed like a syringe needle. Then it will stick with its sharp end at the end of the hole and hold on more firmly.
Another trick: on long tracks, such as the IS-2, the fingers can be bent a little so that they create a spacer inside the hole and hold more securely. All this allows you to do without glue, especially if you are not going to frequently move the model from place to place, your fingers will hold on anyway.

6. Assembly.

I usually collect small sections of tape, 8-10 tracks, inserting wire fingers with tweezers. This is a dangerous procedure that can damage your own fingers.
Then, using a toothpick, I apply a little superglue to my fingertips and leave the area to dry. The glue should not get too deep inside the holes, otherwise the tape will not move.
Then the sections are collected into a common tape, which is attached to the assembled chassis. As a rule, it is better to install the tracks at the very beginning of the assembly, having assembled only the chassis, and after the tracks are installed and adjusted to length, the entire chassis is disassembled, the rollers are removed, and all this stuff is removed before the painting stage. The rollers are accordingly fixed on PVA, which makes them easy to remove.
In order to connect the ends of the ribbon into a “bracelet”, I use a longer piece of wire, without glue, so that it can be easily pulled out later. And you don’t have to look for it, you can see it right away.

Having assembled the tape of the required length, you can simulate its sagging without adding extra tracks, but simply by stretching the tape with your hands, slightly extending your fingers inside the tracks. Usually the tape has about 5 mm of play, which will be enough for a spectacular sag.

A radio-controlled tank is the dream of not only boys, but also many men of all ages. It’s easier, of course, to buy a radio-controlled toy, which stores are filled with. But by applying knowledge in the field of electronics, it is possible to make a radio-controlled model of a tank based on a conventional prefabricated structure.

What do we need

• prefabricated model of a tank (can be bought in a specialized or online store);
• electric motors;
• gearbox;
• epoxy adhesive;
• soldering iron;
• aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.125 cm;
• transistors, other electronic stuffing.

Operating procedure

1. Manufacturing of tank tracks.

Option 1

The tracks can be taken from a prefabricated model kit, but they are made of plastic and this is not exactly what the designer’s soul requires.

Option 2

• a mold is made for casting tracks, allowing the production of up to 90 tracks per hour, which is quite enough for one track;
• before pouring(tin, lead or their alloy) the mold is warmed up;
• in 30 seconds After pouring, the track blank is ready, for which top plate turns, And rods are taken out;
• excess metal is removed with a file.

This device is made depending on the size of the tank model and the shape of the track.

2. Manufacturing of tank tracks.

• Using a drill, holes for the fingers are made in the tracks;
• The tracks are connected using fingers (aluminum wire) and glued.

3. .

— engines (electric motors), gearboxes and batteries are installed;
— the radio signal receiver board and antenna are mounted:

Tuning the receiver involves moving apart the turns of the contour coil. In addition, the coupling capacity with the antenna is selected;

— the tank hull is assembled entirely.

4. Transmitter production.

— the transmitter is manufactured based on the following scheme:

The transmitter is designed for control. Simultaneous pressing is allowed from 4 to 8 buttons, which makes it possible to work with the model in different modes. LEDs act as command execution indicators. After all work is completed, sea trials of the tank are carried out.

There is a fundamental possibility of installing a device on a tank model that will simulate a gun shot. But all known methods of simulating a shot are associated with great technical difficulties, which are recommended to be abandoned in order to facilitate the work.

Create your own fighting army by adding .

Today, stores are full of toys for children of all ages, from 0 to an upper limit that is unlimited. Logical toys can “boil the brain” of any adult, while bright, moving, talking ones can attract the attention of anyone.

About fifteen years ago, model cars were highly valued; people bought them, looked for them, and exchanged them. The one who had the largest collection received respect and attention from his peers. The creators of games, books, and magazines realized the benefits of collections. Now, along with magazines, they publish sets of orders, money and coins from different countries, copies of artists’ paintings, the same cars, dolls, models of metal tanks. And recently, one magazine sent a human bone with each issue; if you collect the entire collection, you can assemble a person.

Some will just laugh at this, while others will run for the latest issue before it’s gone.

Men's hobby

Among the abundance of collectible materials in recent years, tanks have stood out. They appeared in the world during the First World War. At that time it was, rather, a self-propelled machine gun, and it bore little resemblance to modern combat vehicles. Once a month we always hear on the news that the Americans consider their tank to be the best, and Russian military analysts prove that they are not entirely right. And tank biathlon attracts viewers to the TV no worse than the Olympics. All this only adds to the popularity of mobile armored fortresses.

Not a single man can calmly pass by beauty, the beauty of women and the beauty of weapons. We won’t talk about collecting women here, but real weapons, especially a tank, take up a lot of space and are expensive. This is how the models are gaining popularity. What could be better when strength, power and beauty merge into one armored cocktail? Have you heard how a tank fires, what kind of flame it emits and how the target shatters into pieces?

The memory of such impressions is carried in a small, preferably steel model; its pleasant heaviness will add value to it. If you want to make a man, especially one who served in the army, feel good

World Of Tanks

The popularity of tanks was enhanced by the popular game World Of Tanks - a simulator in which the creators tried to bring the conditions for controlling and surviving a tank in battle closer to real ones. In it you will find models from different countries.

There are both famous Soviet tanks T-34, KV-1, IS-3, and German “tigers”, “panthers” and “leopards”. You can also use models that never participated in real battles due to the fact that the war ended, or they were too heavy to be transported to the battlefield under their own power or by train, for example the German "Maus", the largest, heaviest and armored tank of the Second world.

The audience is growing, and there are more and more fans of this game. Now there are many accompanying products, such as clothing with the game logo, pillows, mugs, notebooks, notebooks, briefcases, computer mice and rugs.

Metal tank models are also in use. Each avid gamer has his own preferences in the game. Some people like self-propelled artillery units, which allow them to wait for the moment and cover enemy equipment with an accurate shot. Some people like anti-tank installations, kind of snipers, not very mobile, but with a long range and damage. With heavy tanks everything is simpler: thick armor, inactive, but in order to penetrate one, you need to try. Light ones are excellent for reconnaissance; they can quickly bypass the enemy, go to the rear, and detect artillery. Every player will be glad to have a beautiful metal model of a Tiger tank or another favorite tank on their table.

Tank models

The easiest way to find a tank model is to look at a toy store. In it you can find technology from a variety of times and peoples. There are both prefabricated and solid and radio-controlled options. Kits for tank battles and regular army kits with a set of soldiers and equipment. They are mainly made of plastic, but can be found in wood, metal, paper, and clay.

In the radio toy store you can find working models of metal tanks with high speed of movement, with improvised projectiles. They run not only on batteries, but also on fuel. If a man buys such a toy for his child, rest assured that he will play it himself.

If you have enough patience and desire, then purchase prefabricated models of metal tanks, complete with rivets and bolts.

Collections

In stores you can also buy collectible models of metal tanks. You can collect your own collection, for example, of types of Soviet tanks that participated in the Battle of Kursk, or that were created during the reign of I.V. Stalin. Various magazines and the game World Of Tanks release their collections, making them special and recognizable, so that by looking at just one tank you can understand that it is from the game or from the magazine.

Magazine "Russian Tanks"

Consider the magazine "Russian Tanks". The Gee Fabre Edition company gives all battle enthusiasts the opportunity to collect an impressive collection of domestic tank equipment. The magazine covers times from the 30s of the 20th century to the present day.

Each issue contains a large amount of useful and accurate information about a specific model. In addition to the tactical and technical characteristics, there is also a history of creation and in which battles this equipment took part. For a more vivid picture, everything is complemented by photographs and design diagrams. The magazine issues are accompanied by scale models of metal tanks on a scale of 1:72.

The detail of the models is not very high, but this quality is quite consistent with their cost, which is within 300 rubles. The tower is the only movable element in the model. Some collectors don't like this, but products from the creators of the World Of Tanks game are 7-10 times more expensive.

Homemade metal tank models

Some people love motorcycles, some love houses, some love yachts, but we are tanks. And if you really love tanks, your hands grow from where they are supposed to, then you will be able to create a model with your own hands. First you will need drawings. It is extremely difficult to get real drawings of the tank; among modern ones they are simply classified, but from fragmentary information and large-scale diagrams it is quite possible to determine the dimensions of the main elements. You won't be able to assemble the engine, but the body will be fine. Find the dimensions, convert them to a scale convenient for you. Duralumin, aluminum, sheet iron - all these are quite affordable materials for the manufacture of parts.

If you want to make a movable model, then it is better to make the tracks from duralumin, the base and turret from sheet iron, the cannon from a steel tube, and everything else from aluminum. You will have to become familiar with a lathe and a workbench with tools. Each time after solving some difficulty in manufacturing, the model will become more valuable to you.

There is a simple way to make the tank also shoot. You need a barrel of sufficient thickness, a Chinese firecracker with electric ignition. When fired, there is a loud bang and half the firecracker flies out of the barrel. As an option, it is possible to install a revolving-type reloading mechanism in the form of a drum with firecrackers inside the tower.

It all depends on your patience and desire.

"Skillful hands" circle

Metal is a hard and unyielding material. To work with it, you need a workplace and many special tools. Therefore, if you agree not only to metal, then paper, cardboard, wood, plastic - everything is at your service. When combining materials, the result will surprise no worse than a metal model.

The best toy for men

Models of metal tanks attract any man. Place such an exhibit in front of him, and he will probably touch it, examine it carefully, check how the equipment drives, and estimate its weight. And what battles will unfold in his head!

In general, the tank model is a great gift for a father, brother, husband, father-in-law or just a friend.

Hobby

Whatever your hobby is, whatever you collect, it should be enjoyable. A numismatist calms down and rests when he cleans his coins, a philatelist remembers how this or that stamp came into his possession, each such story is dear to him. A weapons collector knows everything about his weapons: what battles they participated in, what they are famous for, what areas are weak and what are strong.

So the collector of tank models falls in love with the equipment, imagines himself as a crew commander, a driver, or a gunner. He knows what engine was installed, what tests were carried out. Knows the tactical and technical characteristics and places of military glory and shame. Knows the best tankers and the best shots. Starts to think about how this or that model can be improved. This is not necessary to know, but for a collector it is a given. If you don’t have such a desire, then tanks are very good as toys!

Description of the presentation by individual slides:

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Municipal budgetary educational institution "Verkhovskaya secondary school No. 1" Museum model of the T-34 tank Completed by: 11th grade student Alexander Shakhov Supervisor: technology teacher Oleg Ivanovich Martynov VERKHOVYE 2014

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SELECTION AND JUSTIFICATION OF THE TOPIC OF THE PROJECT I am in the 11th grade, at the school museum of local history I study in the “Local History” club, I also like to make crafts, I am interested in technology. Our museum has a Hall of Military Glory. It contains documents telling about the battles for the liberation of our village from the Nazis, and there are some samples of weapons of the Red Army and Nazi Germany. There are models - copies of the main combat aircraft, made by members of the aircraft modeling circle. Last year I also made a model of the LA-5 fighter plane and donated it to the museum. In 2015, our country celebrates the 70th anniversary of Victory in the Great Patriotic War. In this regard, and after consulting with the head of the museum, I decided that the theme for my project would be to make a model copy of some type of armored vehicle and add it to the museum’s exhibition. 1

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GOALS AND OBJECTIVES Goal: To create an original product useful for school. Objectives: 1.Know and perform modeling techniques. 2. Learn to mentally imagine an object and graphically express it in the form of a technical drawing and drawing. 3.Work with technological documentation. 4.Know and correctly perform operating techniques on machines. 5. Express your opinion with reason and make the right decision when designing. 6. Really evaluate your knowledge and skills. 2

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SELECTION OF PRODUCT OPTIONS Having considered several types of tanks that were in service with the Red Army during WWII, I chose the legendary thirty-four tank, the T-34 tank. In my opinion, it looks very nice and will be easier to make than the others. 3

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The “biography” of the thirty-four began in October 1937, when the tank design bureau of the Kharkov plant received an order from the Main Armored Directorate of the Red Army to design a new vehicle capable of replacing the BT type tank in service in the future. Work has begun on creating a tank with projectile-proof armor. The design of a wheeled-tracked vehicle with 30 mm armor and a 45 mm cannon was carried out at the Kharkov plant in the design department headed by M. Koshkin. A year and a half later, the USSR Defense Committee was presented with a design for a tracked tank, named A-32. On December 19, 1939, the government of the country decided to create an improved version of the A-32 tank - the T-34 medium tank, which later became one of the most famous in the history of world tank construction. Production of the first two experimental thirty-fours began in January 1940. And already at the end of February the tanks set off under their own power for Moscow. After the vehicles were shown in the Kremlin, field tests began. The T-34 was forced to overcome the most difficult obstacles and perform dizzying maneuvers. They were fired at directly with high-explosive and armor-piercing shells. In June 1940, the Politburo of the Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks decided to launch production of T-34 tanks. By January 1, 1941, the Kharkov plant managed to produce 115 of the 600 ordered vehicles. 5

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In the spring of 1941, designers and technologists began a tremendous effort to improve and simplify the production of thirty-fours. First of all, this concerned the manufacture of towers. In the first vehicles they were welded from rolled armor plates. This process was complex, time-consuming, and expensive. In an effort to simplify it, engineers developed a new technology that involved welding a turret with an armor thickness of 52mm from just two cast elements. By the beginning of the Great Patriotic War, the Red Army already had 1,225 T-34 tanks, of which 967 were in the western districts. The Stalingrad Tractor Plant and the Krasnoye Sormovo plant in Gorky joined production. Both opponents and our allies in the Second World War failed to create a tank superior to the legendary thirty-four. The T-34 was reliable, easy to manufacture, operate and repair, and easy to train. Thirty-fours bore the brunt of the fight against the fascist armored hordes from 1941 to 1945. 6

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DRAWINGS OF THE T-34 -76 TANK I found the drawings of the tank in the “Model Designer” magazines. Using an epidiascope, I enlarged them to the scale I needed, 1:10, then, using them, I developed and cut out of cardboard the hull, turret, and fuel tanks, and made technological maps for manufacturing the main parts of the tank. 8

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SELECTION OF MATERIALS To make my product, I used available and cheap construction materials: wood and metals. For the body I chose galvanized sheet metal, 0.2 mm thick. It bends, solders, and processes well. The metal body allows you to attach and manufacture the smallest parts on it with great reliability using the method of soldering and surfacing of tin with further processing. The tank turret, road wheels and final drive housings are made of birch wood. Birch has white wood with a brownish tint, hard, dense. Well processed and sharpened. Steel St-3 is a cheap, accessible structural material. Durable, well processed, sharpened, soldered. The gun barrel, front guides and rear drive wheels are machined from a steel bar. Copper is a soft metal with an orange-red color. Easily processed, bent, soldered. Copper tubes and wire were used to make exhaust pipes, machine guns, and staples. Tin is a soft, heavy metal, silvery in color, does not oxidize, and melts easily. Used as solder and for casting track tracks. 10

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Epoxy universal adhesive. Used for gluing metals, their alloys, glass, wood. Primer GF – 021. Used to coat the product after assembly before painting. Alkyd enamels PF-115 in various colors. Soldering acid is a flux for soldering metals. eleven

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SELECTION OF TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1. TV-6 lathe 2. STD-120 lathe 3. Drilling machine 4. Drill 5. Set of files 6. Set of files 7. Set of drills 8. Nazhevka 9. Jigsaw 10. Planer 11. Ruler 12 .Scribler 13.Puncher 14.Caliper 15.Compass 16.Pencil 17.Awl 18.Knife 19.Hammer 20.Set of brushes 21.Sandpaper 22.Soldering iron 23.Compressor 24.Painting gun 12

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TECHNOLOGICAL CARDS Based on the drawings, with the help of a technology teacher, I developed and compiled technological maps for the manufacture of the main parts and components of the T-34 -75 tank. 13

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MANUFACTURING THE UPPER PART OF A TANK HULL No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Upper part of the hull 1 1:10 Tinplate Technological map No. 1 14

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment materials 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Scribbler Metal scissors Tin 2. Apply the contours of the part onto the workpiece Template Scriber Punch 3. Cut out the development of the part. Metal shears File Remove burrs 4. Drill marked holes Drill sled Hand vice Drill 5. Bend the reamer along the fold lines. Solder the corners. Metal shears Bench vice Mandrel Soldering iron 15

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools equipment materials 1. Select a workpiece of the required size Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Wood 2. Mark the contours of the bottom of the tower using a template Pencil Template 3. Mark the contours of the top of the tower using a template Pencil Template 4. Drill a hole to install the barrel of a gun Bench vice Drill Drill 5. Process the part according to the markings. Clean surfaces. Planer Rasp Emery cloth 17

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MANUFACTURING THE SIDE WALL OF THE LOWER PART OF THE TANK HULL No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Side wall 2 1: 10 Tinplate Technological map No. 3 18

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required size. Ruler Scribbler Metal scissors Tin 2. Draw the contours of the part according to the template. Template Scriber Punch 3. Cut out the part. Remove burrs. Metal shears File 4.Drill holes Drilling machine Hand vice Drill 19

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Manufacturing of the engine cover No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Engine cover 1 1:10 Tinplate Technological map No. 4 20

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Pencil Metal scissors Tin 2. Apply the contours of the part according to the template Template Scratch punch 3. Cut out the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4. Drill the marked holes. Drilling machine Hand vice Drill 5. Cut out the engine ventilation windows. Remove burrs. Hammer Chisel File 21

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Bend the part along the fold lines. Bench vice Mandrel Hammer Pliers 7. Solder the corners 8. Close the engine ventilation windows with a mesh Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder Metal mesh 9. Perform final cleaning of the part File Emery cloth 22

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MANUFACTURING A GUN MUZZLE No. Name Quantity Scale material 1 Gun barrel 1 1: 10 Steel Technological map No. 5 23

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select a steel bar of the required size. Ruler Hacksaw for metal Rod Bench vice 2. Secure the workpiece in the chuck of the lathe. Drill a hole. TV-6 lathe Drill 3. Secure the workpiece in the lathe chuck and the tailstock cone. TV-6 lathe Workpiece 4. Turn the workpiece to the required size. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 5. Perform final cleaning of the part. Sanding device Sandpaper 24

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Manufacturing of the fuel tank No. Name Quantity scale Material 1 Fuel tank 3 1: 10 Tinplate Technological map No. 6 25

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Accessories 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required size. Ruler Scribbler Metal scissors Tin 2. Draw the contours of the part according to the template. Sketcher template 3.Cut out the pattern of the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4. Bend the workpiece along the fold lines. Pliers Workpiece 5. Solder the seams of the workpiece. Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder 26

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MANUFACTURE OF THE BACK ROLLER No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Support roller 10 1: 10 Birch Technological map No. 7 27

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select a workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Wood 2. Mark centers at the ends of the workpiece. Plane the edges. Carpentry workbench Planer Ruler Pencil 3. Mark and make a cut at the end of the workpiece. Mark the centers. Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Punch Hammer 4.Secure the workpiece in the lathe. Process to the desired diameter. Lathe STD-120 Chisels Vernier calipers 5. Grind tenons and chamfers. Clean surfaces. Cut off the part. Lathe STD-120 Chisels Emery cloth 28

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Secure the workpiece in the chuck with reverse jaws. Lathe TV-6 Workpiece 7.Drill a hole. Lathe TV-6 Drill 8. Make grooves on the ends of the workpiece. TV-6 lathe Cutter Vernier calipers 9. Perform final cleaning of the part TV-6 lathe Emery cloth 29

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MANUFACTURING GUIDE WHEEL No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Guide wheel 2 1: 10 Steel Technological map No. 8 30

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select a workpiece of the required size. Ruler Vernier calipers Hacksaw for metal Steel rod 2. Fix the workpiece in the lathe chuck and grind to the required diameter. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 3. Grind a tenon in the workpiece to the required depth. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 4. Make a groove from the end of the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 5.Drill a hole in the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Drill Caliper 31

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Cut off the finished part. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 7. Make a groove at the end of the part. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 8. Mark and drill holes. Caliper Punch Hammer Drilling machine Drill Vise 32

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Safety precautions when working on a TV-6 screw-cutting lathe Before starting work: Put on work clothes, fasten your sleeves, prepare safety glasses. Firmly secure the cutter and the workpiece. Remove the cartridge key. Check the handles of the machine, move the cutter away from the workpiece. Turn on the machine and check its operation at idle speed. During operation: Smoothly move the cutter towards the workpiece. It is prohibited: - to measure the workpiece being processed; -remove chips, lubricate and clean the machine without turning it off; - move away from the working machine; -after turning off the machine, brake the chuck by hand; -transmit and receive objects through rotating parts of the machine; - blow off and sweep away the shavings by hand; Upon completion of work: Remove the support from the chuck and turn off the machine. Put the machine, workplace, tools, equipment in order. Place waste in a special box. 34

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS WHEN WORKING ON A DRILLING MACHINE Dangers at work: 1. Eye injury from flying chips. 2. Injury to the hands due to poor fastening of the part. Before starting work: 1. Put on proper clothing. 2.Check the reliability of fastening of the protective casing of the belt drive and the connection of the protective grounding to the machine body. 3.Check the operation of the machine at idle speed. 4. Securely secure the drill in the chuck. 5.Fix the part firmly on the machine table. 6. Wear safety glasses. During operation: 1. Feed the drill to the part smoothly, without effort or jerking. 2.Before drilling a metal workpiece, mark the centers of the holes. 3.When the drill comes out of metal, reduce the feed. 4.Do not slow down the chuck and drill with your hands. 5.Do not leave the machine without turning it off. Upon completion of work: 1. Remove chips from the machine using a brush and hook. 2.Do not blow away the shavings with your mouth or sweep them with your hands. 35

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SAFETY TECHNIQUES WHEN MANUAL PROCESSING OF METAL Dangers in work: 1. Injury from metal fragments. 2. Injury when working with a faulty tool. 3. Cuts with burrs. Before starting work: 1. Put on proper clothing. 2. Wear goggles when chopping metal. 3.Check the condition of the tools. 4.Check the condition of the bench vice. During operation: 1. Firmly secure the workpiece in a vice. 2.Do not check the quality of the sawn surface with your fingers. 3.Use the plumbing tool only for its intended purpose. 4. Hold the sheet metal workpiece being cut when cutting with scissors in a glove (mitten). After finishing work: 1. Carefully clean the work area (do not blow away shavings or sawdust or brush them away with your hands). Place waste in a special box. 2.Put the tools in their places. 3.Get yourself in order. 36

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RULES FOR SAFE WORK WHEN SOLDERING METALS 1. During work, use ventilation to remove dust and harmful vapors. 2.Use a working soldering iron with a dry handle and carefully insulated wires. 3.Handle hot soldering iron, melted solder and hot parts with care. 4.Install the soldering iron on a special stand. 5. Place a rubber mat under your feet. 6. Handle fluxes carefully, do not allow them to splash or get on your body. 7. Keep fluxes in special containers on stands. 8.After finishing work, wash your hands with soap and water. 37

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RULES FOR SAFE WORK WITH A MUFFLE FURNACE 1. Check that the protective grounding is securely attached to the furnace body. 2.Open and close the oven door only after disconnecting it from the power supply. 3.Do not place flammable objects on or near the stove. 4. Place the container with materials in and out of the oven using long-handled pliers. 5.Handle molten metal carefully. 6.When working with metal, wear a canvas apron. 7.Wear gloves and safety glasses. 8.After finishing work, turn off the oven. 38

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN WORKING WITH ADHESIVES AND PAINTS When working with paints, adhesives, and putties, the workplace must be equipped with ventilation, well lit, and free of dust. Observe the following rules: - protect hands and clothing from contact with paints, enamels, glue - use a respirator - use rubber gloves - ensure proper ventilation - after finishing work, wash your hands thoroughly with soap 39

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