LED lamps from the Russian brand Gauss were among the first to appear on the market. Many people consider the lamps of this brand to be among the best and there really are few complaints about them.
Unfortunately, Gauss, producing high-quality lamps, always provided inflated characteristics on the packaging and indicated unrealistic color rendering index (CRI, Ra) values.
Today I will analyze the results of my testing of twenty-four Gauss tubes released in 2017 and 2018.
Lamps are produced in two series - Gauss in black packaging and Gauss elementary in white packaging (cheaper version).
Lamps in black packaging indicate Ra>90, lamps in white packaging indicate Ra>80, but, unfortunately, this is not true. In reality, for lamps in black packaging, the CRI (Ra) is 81-84, for lamps in white packaging - 73-76.
The warranty period for most lamps in black packaging is 3 or 5 years, for elementary lamps in white packaging and for capsule lamps (G4 and G9) in black packaging - 1 year.
On the packaging of most lamps it is written “without pulsation” and this is true, but there are lamps on which this is not written, and unacceptable 100% pulsation was found there. These lamps are definitely not worth buying.
Luminous flux, color temperature and color rendering index were measured using two-meter integrating sphere and Instrument Systems CAS 140 CT spectrometer, lighting angle and consumption characteristics of the Viso Light Spion device, power consumption of the Robiton PM-2 device, pulsation of the Uprtek MK350D device. The minimum operating voltage, at which the luminous flux decreased by no more than 10% of the nominal, was measured using a Lamptest-1 device, a Stihl Instab 500 stabilizer, a Suntek TDGC2-0.5 LATR and an Aneng AN8001 precision multimeter. Before measurements, to stabilize the parameters, the lamps were warmed up for half an hour.
As can be seen from the table, all lamps have actual power less than declared. Pear lamps of the black series provide 81-85% of the promised luminous flux, however, in terms of the equivalent of an incandescent lamp, they correspond to the declared one.
For some reason, Gauss always specified a color temperature of 2700K for their “warm” lamps, although in fact it is always higher and is about 3100K, the color temperature of lamps with neutral light is about 4000K, and the packaging says 4100K.
The only lamp tested, released in 2018 and with a five-year warranty, is a candle with a stated power of 9.5 W, luminous flux of 890 lm and the equivalent of a 95 W incandescent lamp, which actually consumes 8 W, produces 703 lm and replaces a 70 W incandescent lamp, which for There are still a lot of E14 spark plugs. It is interesting that this lamp has a color temperature of 3000K and in fact it is that way. I hope that in 2018 the color temperature of all lamps began to be indicated correctly.
The actual color rendering indices of all these lamps (CRI, Ra) are 80-82, although the packages indicate “above 90”. These are normal values for household lighting lamps, but there is nothing outstanding in them, as in lamps with a CRI above 90.
Lamps in white boxes from the Elementary series have color rendering indices of 73-76 (and the packaging says “above 80”), but their luminous flux is almost as stated.
All “pears”, “ball” and “candle” work correctly with switches that have an indicator (they do not flash or burn dimly when the switch is off). Three GX3 spots also work correctly, and two of the white series light up dimly when the switch is turned off.
Most lamps contain a built-in stabilizer and their brightness does not change when the supply voltage changes over a wide range. All lamps, except dimmable ones, operate when the mains voltage is reduced to 135 volts, and some operate at lower voltages.
The two GX53 dimmable spots have a ripple factor of about 30%. This pulsation is almost invisible visually, but it is still there. I note that there is no “ripple-free” sign on the packaging of these lamps.
The luminous flux of all tested spots almost corresponds to the declared one.
Gauss capsule microlamps are divided into two “camps”. Those that have the sign “no ripple” actually have a pulsation coefficient of less than 1%, and those that do not have a sign, alas, have a pulsation coefficient of 100% and it is better not to buy such lamps.
The luminous flux of all microlamps is significantly less than the declared one (by 18-38%), and only for the 12-volt G4 microlamp it almost corresponds to the declared one. The color temperature of “warm” lamps, as well as of other types of lamps, is closer to 3000K than to the declared 2700K.
All good capsule lamps (those with 100% pulsation are not worth mentioning) cannot work correctly with switches that have an indicator (they flash when the switch is off).
Based on the test results, the following conclusions can be drawn:
Gauss black series are good lamps, but you need to keep in mind that their actual power and luminous flux are lower than declared, and the actual color rendering index is slightly higher than 80;
Gauss white Elementary series have a color rendering index slightly higher than 70, so it is better not to use them for lighting residential premises;
It is very important to pay attention to the “No ripple” sign on the packaging of Gauss lamps. If it is not there, most likely there will be pulsation, and in the case of capsule microlamps up to 100%.
P.S. Data for all tested Gauss lamps on the Lamptest website.
P.P.S. I will try to test a large number of Gauss lamps from 2018 in the near future.
© 2018, Alexey Nadezhin
Most of the LED lamps that I test and write about can only be purchased in specialized online stores, but ordinary buyers usually buy lamps in hypermarkets. I went to Auchan and Leroy Merlin stores, bought 48 models of LED lamps there and tested them. I returned the lamps back to the stores, as they have a return option. Today - 22 lamps from Auchan.
As you can see, quite a few lamps turned out to be bad. First of all, they have a high pulsation (flicker) of light. I consider all lamps with a pulsation level of more than 45% substandard. Such flickering is visible visually and is located in a room illuminated by lamps.
As you can see, quite a few lamps turned out to be bad. First of all, they have a high pulsation (flicker) of light. I consider all lamps with a pulsation level of more than 45% substandard. Such flickering is visible visually and being in a room illuminated by lamps with high pulsation is very uncomfortable.
None of the tested lamps provides the luminous flux promised by the manufacturer and only two lamps have a luminous flux of 99% and 97% of the promised one, which fits into the requirements of GOST R 54815-2011, according to which the measured initial luminous flux of an LED lamp must be at least 90% of rated luminous flux. These are Osram LED Star PAR16 35 35 AA74222 GU10 and Vitoone 1510590 Bulb lamps, which fall into the good group. The remaining 20 lamps have a luminous flux of 61-88% of the nominal and do not comply with GOST.
9 lamps have a CRI below 80. They should not be used in residential areas.
I will say a few words about the lamps of each of the tested brands.
Osram.
One lamp tested. All parameters correspond to the stated ones. Nice light bulb.
Vitoone.
Two lamps tested. I tested a 4-watt candle of this brand in the spring and everything was bad with it - an unacceptable level of pulsation and a low CRI. Everything is much better with the new lamps. The pulsation of one lamp is 25% (this is quite acceptable), the second has practically no pulsation. CRI is more than 80, luminous flux is 97 and 88% of the declared value. For the price they are quite decent light bulbs.
Wolta.
Two lamps tested. Wolta has two series of lamps - regular in orange boxes and simple in white. All the orange ones I tested were good. Many whites have unacceptable levels of light pulsation. So, a 5.5-watt ball lamp has practically no pulsation, while a GU5.3 spot has as much as 66%. This lamp cannot be used. As for the ball, the only complaint about it is 81% of the declared luminous flux. It shines like a 45-watt incandescent lamp, and the manufacturer claims the equivalent of 50 watts.
Space.
Four lamps tested. First of all, "Cosmos" misleads the consumer with its equivalent. On a 5-watt candle, the equivalent of 60 W is written in large letters, and in very small letters, 340 Lm, but this is not a 60 W equivalent, but only 40. In fact, this is not even the case - the lamp gives only 242 Lm and shines like a 30-watt incandescent lamp . The same is true with other lamps - a 7 W bulb has an actual power of 5 W, gives 422 lm instead of the promised 540, and shines like a 50-watt incandescent lamp, but not at all like a 75-watt one. A 5-watt spot consumes only 3.5 W, produces 226 lumens instead of the promised 370, and shines like a 40-watt halogen spot, not like a 50-watt one. The 3-watt R39 mirror lamp produces 199 lumens instead of the promised 240, but here the manufacturer made a mistake with the equivalent in the other direction. The fact is that mirror bulbs provide much less light than regular bulbs. A 30-watt R39 incandescent mirror bulb produces only 160 lumens, so 199 lumens is the equivalent of 35 watts. All lamps have good CRI values of 82.3-83.1. The light pulsation of the first three lamps does not exceed 31%, but the R39 lamp has a pulsation of 47% and it is already visible, so I am forced to reject this lamp.
Camelion.
Two lamps tested. Both lamps have no light pulsation, but their CRI turned out to be very different. The candle has 82.5, but the ball has 74.4, so it is better not to use it in residential areas. Luminous flux is about 80% of the declared one.
Era.
Two lamps tested. Both lamps have no light pulsation, CRI 85.7 and 82.5. The luminous flux of the pear lamp is 86% of the declared one, the equivalent of 65 W (promised 70 W), but the luminous flux of the R63 DSLR is only 66% of the declared one, but this is most likely a manufacturer’s error with the luminous flux and the equivalent of DSLRs. The tested lamp shines like a 70-watt DSLR (the equivalent of 75 W is declared). Nice light bulbs. When purchasing, you just need to mentally subtract 5-10 W from the promised equivalent.
The Russian brand Navigator has 89 types of LED lamps in its assortment. I asked Battery Team, which owns the brand, to give me some samples of lamps to test that replace standard 60 and 75 watt incandescent lamps, as well as replacement 40 watt candle lamps. I’ll talk about “candles” separately, but today I’ll talk about four lamps from two series - NLL-A Professional (8 and 11 W) and NLL-A Standard (7 and 10 W).
Lamps with a power of 7 and 10 W currently cost 250 rubles, lamps 8 and 11 W - 410 rubles.
All four lamps are flicker-free and can be operated with indicator switches. Due to the fact that the glass has a larger diameter than the body, all the lamps shine back a little, which is good.
I'll start with the results of measurements taken using Viso LightSpion ().
All four lamps have a luminous flux greater than declared (that is, they glow brighter than the manufacturer promised). The power equivalent is calculated based on measurements of the luminous flux of various incandescent lamps. The color temperature is close to the declared one, CRI exceeds 80 (this means that the lamps can be used in residential areas and their light does not significantly distort colors).
Size comparison with a conventional incandescent lamp.
The 7-watt lamp NLL-A60-7-230-2.7K-E27 from the cheap NLL-A Standard series is entirely plastic and very light - 56 grams. According to the measurement results, everything is fine - it shines like a 60-watt incandescent lamp.
A visual comparison with a 60 W incandescent lamp shows that the light from the bulb has a greenish-yellow tint.
The 8-watt lamp NLL-A55-8-230-2.7K-E27 from the expensive NLL-A Professional series has a metal radiator and weighs 96 grams.
A visual comparison shows that the lamp shines brighter than a 60-watt incandescent lamp and has a pleasant and comfortable lighting color.
Shooting parameters: ISO 125, 1/30, 1.8, 3500K
The 10-watt lamp NLL-A60-10-230-2.7K-E27 from the cheap NLL-A Standard series is very similar to the 7-watt one - the same plastic body and weight 57 grams.
The color of the light also has a greenish-yellow tint, the lamp is equivalent in brightness to a 75-watt incandescent lamp.
Shooting parameters: ISO 125, 1/30, 1.8, 3500K
The 11-watt lamp NLL-A60-11-230-2.7K-E27 from the expensive NLL-A Professional series weighs as much as 110 grams.
It shines slightly brighter than a 75-watt incandescent bulb and has a comfortable illumination color very similar to an incandescent bulb.
Shooting parameters: ISO 125, 1/30, 1.8, 3500K
8 and 11 W bulbs are almost flawless - they have a comfortable lighting color and their technical parameters are even better than those declared by the manufacturer.
The light of 7 and 10 W bulbs has a greenish-yellow tint, but their technical parameters correspond to the declared ones.
Looking ahead, I will say that the Navigator dimmable candle lamps turned out to be the best of all the LED lamps of this format that I have visited. I'll tell you about them next time.
p.s. All my LED lamp reviews and measurement data are on the site
), which we worked on for six months, started working today in “combat” mode.
The site contains data on the LED lamps I tested. Now there are 102 of them, but a couple dozen more will be added soon. The site already has data on all Ikea light bulbs, as well as on a large number of Thomson, Navigator, and Gauss lamps.
The site is very fast, runs on PHP and is technically very cool. It was created by programmer Sergey Andreev ( [email protected]), for which many thanks to him!
The most important and complex thing on the site is the filtering, sorting and display system, which I am proud of.
The main page has a simple filter window where you can select any values and ranges at once.
You can select the type of lamp (LED-LED, STD incandescent lamp), base, type (pear, candle, corn, mirror, spot), real power (in the range you can enter either two “from-to” values or one - only “from” or only “to”), power equivalent (incandescent lamp with what power the LED lamp corresponds in brightness), color (warm, neutral, cold). Using six checkboxes, you can display frosted bulbs, dimmable ones (whose brightness can be adjusted), lamps that do not flicker, lamps that can work with a switch that has an indicator, lamps with a wide lighting angle (that shine at least a little back) , current models (those that are currently on sale). You can choose lamps from one or more brands.
After selecting any filtering parameters (or no parameters), click the “Show” button and the site displays a table of lamp parameters.
Two more lines are added to the filter window. You can additionally select the lighting angle, luminous flux, efficiency (lumens per watt), CRI (color gamut index), voltage, lamp diameter and height.
If the user is overwhelmed by the number of parameters and numbers, you can enable the simplified mode (by checking the appropriate box). In this case, only the main parameters will be displayed in the table and the filter panel will be the same as on the main page.
As an example of how filters work, I will show you how to find all LED light bulbs for the E27 base, which shine like a 55-65 W incandescent lamp, have a warm light, are matte, do not flicker, work with a switch that has an indicator, provide a wide lighting angle and available for sale.
The filter table has a search field with which you can search for lamps by name and model.
In addition to filters, the table of light bulbs can be sorted by any column by clicking on its header.
Now about what and how is displayed in the table.
Each line starts with two icons. When you click the camera icon, a large photo of the lamp appears.
When you click the icon with a sheet of paper, a lamp card with all the parameters, a photograph and a picture of the test results on VISO LightSpion is displayed.
Let's go back to the table row.
Everything is clear with the brand and model. P" - declared power. The background color shows what kind of light the lamp gives (yellow - warm, white - neutral, blue - cold). With the base, type and type, I think everything is also clear. “mat” - matte lamp or transparent, “ dim" - dimmable or not, P - measured power (the color of the cell shows how much the real power corresponds to the declared one. Here and below: green - good, blue - more or less, yellow - not very good, orange - bad, red - very bad) , Lm - luminous flux (color also shows how much it corresponds to the declared one), eff - efficiency (color shows how energy efficient the lamp is), eq - equivalent power of an incandescent lamp, K - measured color temperature (the color of the cell shows how much it corresponds to the declared one) , CRI - color rendering index (the color of the cell shows how good it is), angle - angle of illumination, flicker - pulsation coefficient (color shows how good everything is), off - support for working with a switch that has an indicator (for some lamps this column shows ±, this means that when the switch is turned off, the lamp is dimly lit), the score is an overall score that is calculated from all fields that have a color highlight.
The second half of the line displays the manufacturer's data - luminous flux, incandescent lamp power equivalent, color temperature, service life. Next are the dimensions of the lamp according to my measurements (manufacturers often indicate incorrect data), the price in rubles or dollars, the date of testing, a sign of relevance (the lamp is on sale). The last parameter is the level of visual comfort. There are lamps whose parameters are fine, but the light is somehow disgusting. This parameter is subjective - I just look at the light of the lamp and give an assessment.
In the upper right corner of the site there is another search that searches for lamp cards.
In the near future I will add those pictures and data that are currently missing in the table and begin testing new light bulbs. Already, 5 new Gauss models and several Chinese lamps are waiting in the wings, which are already in the table, but have not yet been tested.
I really hope that I have enough strength and enthusiasm to test all the LED lamps that are sold in Moscow and enter data about them on
“Unlike conventional incandescent lamps, which differ only in power and workmanship, LED lamps have many parameters that affect the quality and safety of lighting.”
"Light flow
The brightness of a lamp, or rather the amount of light that a lamp gives, is determined by the “luminous flux” parameter, measured in lumens (lm).
For ordinary lamps (pears, candles), you can approximately estimate the required luminous flux by multiplying the power of a conventional incandescent lamp by 10: 40 W - 400 lm, 60 W - 600 lm, 100 W - 1000 lm. So, if you're looking to buy an LED bulb to replace a 60-watt incandescent bulb, look for bulbs with a lumen output of at least 600 lumens.
Unfortunately, many manufacturers overestimate the luminous flux value. In reality, it may turn out to be even half as low as stated, and a lamp that should shine like a 60-watt incandescent lamp will only shine like a 25-watt one."
"Colorful temperature
Incandescent lamps emit a warm yellowish light with a color temperature of 2700-2800K. If you want an LED lamp to produce light as similar as possible to incandescent lamp light, choose lamps with a color temperature of 2700-2800K. Many LED lamps have a color temperature of 3000K - this is whiter, but no less comfortable light. Light from lamps with a color temperature of 4000K is called “neutral white”. This light is more suitable for office spaces. It is believed that white light helps improve performance, and yellow light helps to relax and unwind, so at home in the evening the light should be warm with a color temperature no higher than 3000K. Lamps with cool white light 5000K and above are intended for use in utility rooms. There is no place for them at home."
"Color rendering index (CRI, Ra)
At low Ra, shades are less visible. Such light is visually unpleasant, and it is very difficult to understand what is wrong with it. For incandescent and solar lamps, Ra is higher than 98, for good LED lamps it is more than 80, for very good lamps it is more than 90. It is better not to use lamps with Ra below 80 in residential areas.”
"IKEA LED lamps are deservedly considered by many to be the best that can be bought in Russia. First of all, many IKEA Ledare lamps have a very high (91.1-96.1) color rendering index (CRI) and it should be noted that in fact these are the only lamps with a CRI>90 , available in our country. Many IKEA lamps are cheaper than competitors with better parameters."
"Light pulsation
Light pulsation leads to eye fatigue and a general deterioration in well-being, so it is very important to use only those lamps that do not have visible pulsation. According to SNIP, for various types of premises, light pulsation is normalized in the range of 5-20%"
“According to the latest data, for the complete absence of harmful effects on humans, pulsations should not be more than 4-5%
Pulsations with a depth of 20% cause the same level of disruption of normal brain activity as pulsations with a depth of 100%. The person feels inexplicable discomfort, fatigue, and dizziness. High-frequency light pulsations affect human hormonal levels, daily biorhythms and associated performance, fatigue, and emotional well-being.
Systematic exposure can serve as an indirect cause of permanent depression, insomnia, cardiovascular diseases and cancer. An unfavorable effect of light fluctuations on the photoreceptor elements of the retina has also been revealed."
"Guarantee
All LED lamps have a warranty of 1 to 5 years. Stores are required to replace lamps under warranty during this period if they fail. In addition, according to the consumer protection law, you can return the lamps to the store within 14 days after purchase if you do not like them, provided that you have intact packaging and, if possible, a receipt."
Models of LED lamps with low pulsation coefficient (0-1%), warm color, matte shade, equivalent power of 30-50 W and E14 base:
| brand | model |
| Start | LEDCandleE14 5W30 |
| Camelion | LED ULTRA LED3.5-R39/830/E14 |
| Camelion | LED ULTRA LED5.5-C35/830/E14 |
| Horoz | HL 4380L |
| Horoz | HL 4360L |
| Feron | LB-95 25478 |
| Volta | 25Y45GL5.5E14 |
| Volta | 25YC5.5E14 |
| Auchan | 868101 |
| Diall | 518684 |
| Polaroid | 30411906 PL45-4143 |
| Polaroid | 30411916 PL37-4143 |
The same with an E27 base and an equivalent power of 80-95 W
| brand | model |
guarantee period, months |
| Nanolight | L164 LE-GLS-12/E27/827 | 12 |
| Camelion | LED ULTRA LED12-A60/830/E27 | 36 |
| Camelion | LED ULTRA LED10-R63/830/E27 | 36 |
| Camelion | LED8.5-R63/830/E27 | 36 |
| Brawex | Premium 0307D-A60-10L | 36 |
| Navigator | NLL-A60-12-230-2.7K-E27 | 24 |
| Polaroid | 30411922 PL63-8273 | 36 |
| Ecowatt | A60 13 827 E27 | 24 |
| Ecowatt | A60 11 827 E27 | 24 |
Lamps with E27 socket, warm color and equivalent power of more than 80 W:
Lamps with E14 base, warm color and equivalent power up to 50 W:
"If the lamp you are interested in is not yet on the website lamptest.ru, I recommend being guided by the following selection criteria:
If the package says “no pulsation”, there is a high probability that the pulsation of the lamp light will be less than 5%. If this is not indicated and it is possible to turn on the lamp, look at its light through the camera of your mobile phone. There should be no stripes across the screen. Try twirling a pencil or other long object in front of the lamp. If the contours of a pencil are blurred, there is no pulsation; if you see “several pencils,” there is a visible pulsation and such a lamp is not worth buying.
See what the skin of your hand looks like under the light of a lamp. If the color is grayish, the lamp has a low color rendering index and it is better not to buy it.
Pay attention to the production date of the lamp (for most lamps it is indicated on the body). If a lamp was produced more than two years ago, it is better not to buy it - progress is very fast and modern lamps are better than those that were produced before.
After purchasing, take a photo of the receipt. If the lamp fails, this photo will help you replace it under warranty if the regular receipt gets lost or fades."
Advantages of LED lamps:
1. High luminous efficiency.
2. High mechanical strength, vibration resistance.
3. Long service life.
Lamp life is highly dependent on temperature. When operating at temperatures above room temperature, the service life is reduced.
4. Low inertia - they turn on immediately at full brightness, while mercury-phosphorus (fluorescent-economical) lamps have a turn-on time from 1 s to 1 min, and the brightness increases from 30% to 100% in 3-10 minutes, in depending on the ambient temperature.
5. The number of on-off cycles does not have a significant impact on the service life of LEDs (unlike traditional light sources - incandescent lamps, gas-discharge lamps).
6. Safety - no high voltage required, low temperature of LED or fixture, usually not higher than 60 °C.
7. Insensitive to low and very low temperatures. However, high temperatures are contraindicated for LEDs, as for any semiconductors.
8. Environmentally friendly - no mercury or phosphorus inside the lamp.
“The technology is constantly being improved in order to make lamps more environmentally friendly, bringing only benefits to our eyes. However, as with other devices, there are cheap and expensive options. Manufacturers sometimes do not indicate all the characteristics on the box. Let’s briefly consider what problems may concern people when using LED lamps.
1. This is, first of all, emission spectrum. In 2013, information about the dangers of LED lighting spread across the Internet, citing a study by Spanish scientists from the Complutense University, which showed that the light emitted by LED lamps can significantly damage the retina of the human eye. Sometimes there are notes that supposedly the spectrum of LED lamps contains a hard blue and even ultraviolet component, which is harmful to our eyes. Indeed, there are sanitary standards for UV irradiation of the retina, which are recommended not to be exceeded. Note that the strongest source of UV radiation is the Sun. All experiments to confirm the harmfulness of UV radiation were carried out on animals and the harmful effects on the retina were noted only with prolonged exposure to very bright light.
Nowadays, most household lighting lamps have a color temperature of 2700-3000 K, which is far from the UV region. And yet, when choosing a lamp in a store, pay attention to its color temperature. This parameter is always on the box.
As for the conclusions made by Spanish scientists, they relate to the radiation of all kinds of LED screens, such as the displays of all kinds of gadgets, computers, televisions, etc. Scientists have proven that if you look at such screens for a long time, without any eye protection, this can actually lead to gradual changes in the retina. Therefore, it is recommended to protect your eyes when working with a computer for a long time with special glasses. Take frequent breaks. We don’t look closely at lighting fixtures for a long time, so there is no harm from them.
2. Flicker of light. Light pulsations are very characteristic of old fluorescent lamps. For good LEDs they are minimal - less than 1%. Although there are cheaper lamps with ripples of more than 60%. This parameter is usually not indicated in the description on the box with the lamp. We can advise you to simply buy not the cheapest modern lamps. In them, power is supplied through special drivers, and not through capacitors. There are tips on the Internet on how to independently evaluate light pulsations. It is suggested to look at the lamp through a mobile phone camera.
3. Another problem related to the spectrum of the LED lamp that is sometimes mentioned on the Internet is harm of bright white color on human health. This does not mean the effect on vision, but the effect on the nervous system, suppressing the production of the sleep hormone - melatonin. It is recommended in the evening, a couple of hours before bedtime, to reduce the brightness of the lamps and use warmer light. Unlike fluorescent lamps, some LED lamps, like incandescent lamps, support the function of dimming using power controls “dimmers”, this should be indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
4. Insect problem. They love bright light, and they are less attracted to incandescent lamps than diode lamps, including because of their strong heating. Diode lamps, which are brighter than incandescent lamps and do not heat up, sometimes gather clouds of flying insects around them. This problem is especially relevant when lighting large southern cities, where sometimes there is an “invasion” of various mosquitoes, flies, and cicadas.
The LED lamp is one of the most necessary and important inventions of our time. It not only improves the quality of light in our homes, but also helps solve the problem of energy conservation - one of the most pressing problems on Earth."
Dimmable low ripple lamps:
| brand | model | description | price |
eq. |
corner |
| Uniel |
LED-CW37-6W/WW/E14/FR/DIM ALP01WH |
340 | 45 | 225 | |
| Volpe | LED-C37-6W/WW/E14/FR/DIM/O | Candle 450Lm 6W 3000K M D E14 | 321 | 40 | 171 |
| Uniel | LED-C37-6W/WW/E14/FR/DIM | Candle 560Lm 6W 3000K M D E14 | 342 | 55 | 164 |