How to replace pipes in an apartment. Replacing old pipes with new ones How to change pipes in an apartment to plastic ones

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment can be planned or sudden. Over time, the structure wears out and requires repair. Dirt and rust collect on the walls of the pipes, which form growths (corals), which reduces the permeability of water. Of course, any repair is always stressful for a person. For high-quality installation of pipes, we recommend using the services of specialists who can choose the right material and replace everything in a short time.

Pipeline layout, diagram and approach to work

Replacement of pipes is carried out in two routing methods:

Serial wiring is installed in one line, i.e. The exit from the common riser to the plumbing is via tees and adapters.

Disadvantages of this design:

reduction of water pressure and pressure when operating several plumbing fixtures;

Advantages of the sequential method:

The collector method is used if you want to hide the structure under a screed, drywall or tile. The advantages of this wiring:

each device has its own separate line, which can be closed at any time without interfering with the operation of other devices;
this method gives an even distribution of pressure on all appliances installed in the kitchen or bathroom.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the high cost of materials and labor. Before starting work, you should draw a pipe layout diagram, take into account all water distribution points and understand what equipment will be connected.

For example, in the kitchen they most often use:

washing machine and dishwasher;
heating tank;
cold and hot water mixer;
gas boiler or water heater;
various water filters.

For the bathroom use:

showers and baths;
toilet, bidet;
washing machine;
water heating tank.

If in the process of laying pipes you do not yet have all the appliances in the kitchen or bathroom, it is worth making outlets for them immediately, this will simplify the connection.

Materials: types, advantages and disadvantages

Today, plumbing stores offer a large number of products for replacing pipelines:

Previously, steel products were used, but recently they have moved away and are no longer used. This is due to the fact that steel is susceptible to corrosion processes, is heavy and difficult to install. Before purchasing material, we advise you to carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of each type. Types of products:

Copper product. This product is resistant to high temperatures and sudden pressure changes. In terms of service life, copper can last up to 55 years. Among the disadvantages of this material it is worth noting:

complexity of installation using technology;
oxidation;
high price;

Metal-plastic product. This type is the most popular, easy to install and inexpensive. The pipe has a 5-layer structure, glued with polyethylene and aluminum layers along the outer and inner contours. Due to this, the product can be easily bent and placed in any place. They are often used to replace plumbing in kitchens and bathrooms. The benefits include:

installation and assembly of the structure is similar to a construction set;
reliable and economical option;
savings on specialist fees, the cost of work is cheaper compared to others;
there is a possibility of crashing into the pipeline.

The disadvantages include:

over time, the connections of the structure weaken, so it is not recommended to hide the water supply;
Leaks may form at the joints due to temperature changes or water hammer.

Plastic pipe is a popular material for replacing water pipes. They are classified by type:

Polybutylene product. The plastic bends perfectly, can withstand temperatures up to 80 degrees, and if soldered correctly, the joint will securely hold the pipe.

Polyethylene product. This is an inexpensive material that cannot withstand temperatures of 60 degrees; the joints do not bend, they are only soldered. Such a design is likely to fail to withstand strong water pressure and lead to rupture. Their main advantage is their high resistance to cold. For a cold riser or a room without heating, this is an ideal option.

Polyvinyl chloride product or PVC. It is highly resistant to various chemical reactions, can withstand temperatures up to 80 degrees, and is easy to assemble and glue. However, the disadvantages include the reduced reliability of the joints; they may not withstand strong pressure.

Propylene product. The material is not expensive, easy to assemble, the joints are durable, can withstand temperatures up to 130 degrees, and with proper soldering of the structure it can withstand pressure up to 12 atm. True, it is undesirable to hide such a structure under tiles or drywall, because depending on the temperature of the water, the tubes can bend and break the wall.

Expert advice! For open installation of water supply, polypropylene products are most often used; this method allows you to install pipes along the walls. When installing a water supply in a closed manner, the pipes are laid in grooves, which are hidden under screed or plaster.

Material calculation

An accurate calculation of the material for the pipeline is necessary to ensure that the entire structure is completely assembled. Agree, it is not very convenient to run for the missing part while working. To do this, you need to determine the diameter of the product and understand the throughput under pressure drops. In the calculation it is important to consider:

minimum permissible pressure 0.3-0.4 at;
pressure loss per 1 m of 16 mm tube by 0.5 at;
the average pressure loss in a multi-storey building per unit of fitting and fittings is 0.15 atm;
possible loss of pressure by 0.25 atm;
periodic turbulization of the pipeline, on average a value of up to 4.5 atm per 12 mm pipe;

Installation of propylene structure

Today, a propylene pipeline is the best option. This structure is assembled using solder fittings; crosses and tees are used for connections. In order to properly replace pipes in the kitchen or bathroom you need to:

draw a diagram of the future structure;
understand how much materials need to be spent;
dismantle old pipes, clear the room of excess debris;
select a suitable nozzle for the soldering iron that matches the diameter of the pipes and fittings;
next you need to remove the outer chamfer from the tube;
clean the reinforced product with aluminum foil, this is an important point, because if water and aluminum come into close contact, the tube will begin to delaminate and collapse;
insert one side of the nozzle into the fitting, and the other into the tube;
wait a few seconds until the plastic melts;
insert the pipe into the fitting and hold it for a few seconds until it sticks together.

We assemble the remaining structure in the same way. You can replace the pipe yourself, the main thing is to carry out all the processes correctly and not violate the technology. If you decide to turn to specialists for help, find out how much such work costs and in what time frame they can complete it.

Important! It is unacceptable to solder propylene with a soldering iron - butt iron!

Shut-off valves: their role and function

Shut-off valves are an important component in drainage; they are responsible for the safe use of taps when supplying water. Before replacing pipes in an apartment, it is necessary to check the functionality of all valves and taps. As a rule, valves are installed with ball or instrument valves. A ball valve is installed at the inlet of the water supply system, and an instrument valve is installed directly for individual control in the apartment. They are secured using tow or special FUM tape, which seals the threaded connections of the structure. If they malfunction, we advise you to replace them, this will provide additional protection when supplying water to the basement. Don’t skimp on the faucet; this device is installed for more than one year.

To correctly select the material and its installation, follow simple rules:

when installing hidden wiring, only polypropylene is used;
for wiring using a large number of water points and long branches - metal-plastic;
for country houses and dachas, use polyethylene;
If the water pressure is low or its supply is irregular, use PVC pipes.

Copying materials is possible only with an active link to the source that is not closed from indexing.

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment: how much does it cost?

Scheme of water supply wiring in the apartment. Materials for pipes and quantity calculation. Installation instructions and recommendations from specialists.

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment: do-it-yourself instructions

As you know, the housing office is responsible for the external sections of water supply pipes. However, the internal sections of the structures (that is, those located towards the apartment) must be dealt with by the residents themselves.

Replacing metal pipes with polypropylene ones

In what cases are pipes replaced? Sometimes this work is necessary for aesthetic purposes: to improve the appearance of the wiring, to bring the structure to the desired finish in the apartment. In addition, pipes deteriorate over time and begin to leak, which makes their replacement simply necessary. For example, the service life of metal structures is 30-40 years. In some cases, it is necessary to replace structures in an apartment prematurely. The reason for this may be improper installation or unfavorable operating conditions.

To avoid problems, it is recommended to carry out preventive replacement of structures in a timely manner. Signals for this are a strong drop in pressure, which can be caused by plugs of layered sludge, as well as by the presence of through holes that appear due to corrosion.

Instructions for replacing the system

What material should I choose to replace the water supply in an apartment? Reinforced polypropylene is almost ideal. Structures made from this material are easy to install with your own hands; the connections are strong and of high quality. They are affordable in terms of cost, light weight, and can withstand high pressure in the water supply system.

Let's look at how to properly replace a water supply pipe in an apartment. First you need to dismantle the old system:

Old risers are disconnected and removed;
Old structures are being dismantled. This can be done using a turbine, cutting the structure, starting with the valves;
The valves are carefully removed. If they are old, it is recommended to first unscrew the head with the thumb. This will eliminate the need to make a recess in the wall. When unscrewing the head, the valve should be pressed using a gas wrench.

After dismantling the old pipes, you can begin cleaning the system. The structure, right up to the valve, is often clogged with sand and small debris, which can later turn into growths that are difficult to remove. For this reason, cleaning should always be carried out before installing a new system. You can do this yourself, using a steel string or a screwdriver (depending on the design).

If you choose a string, you should attach a handle to its end for ease of use. At the second end you need to fix a small hook. To clean, the string is inserted into the pipe and pushed forward. In this case, you should scroll it.

Following this, the water supply valves are replaced. Which valve to choose? Ideally, it should be ball-type so that the water can be turned off with one turn of the handle. The valve should be fixed to the old thread. In this case, a winding made of special flax treated with paint is used. Before doing this, do not forget to place newspaper under the water supply system so as not to stain the floor with paint.

Then the filter is installed. In this case, the settling barrel should be located at the bottom so that all sand and debris flows into it. An adapter fitting is installed. The latter must provide a transition from a threaded connection to a polypropylene structure.

Pipe installation instructions

First, you should purchase a soldering tool attachment. It must match the dimensions of the structure being installed. The external chamfer is removed from the pipe. The reinforced structure with foil is cleaned. One end of the nozzle is attached to the fitting, the other to the structure itself.

The polyethylene must melt. The structure is placed in a fitting. In a few seconds they will be securely fastened. You can see how the work is done in the photo. The last step will be to check the system for functionality. To do this, partially open the valves and check for leaks in the structure.

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment: video and photo DIY instructions

Instructions for replacing water supply pipes in an apartment yourself.

Proper replacement of water pipes in an apartment with your own hands. Choice of material.

Replacing pipes inside an apartment or house must be approached with the utmost seriousness. Even if you have experience in installing water supply, heating, and sewerage systems, each new object always has its own unique features. Replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands is within the capabilities of anyone, however, this task is far from being as simple as it seems. Let's look at the nuances together.

Exists four main types of pipe, which is installed inside the apartment.

Steel, galvanized, cast iron.
Copper.
Metal-plastic.
Polypropylene, PVC.

Each material has its pros and cons. Let's look at them.

Steel, galvanized pipes

Overgrowth of a steel pipe from the inside

Steel pipes came to us from the last century. It’s just that there were no pipes made of artificial materials before.

So we had to install heavy steel pipes, cutting threads, using welding and a torch. The plumbers of that time were very physically developed people.

Advantages of steel pipes:

Reliability. Such pipes are connected using a threaded or welded method, and the connection becomes monolithic.
Strength. Steel pipe is quite durable.

But the disadvantages of such a pipe still outweigh the advantages:

Fragility. Maximum 20 years, and the pipe must be replaced, because... from the inside it becomes impassable.

Heavy installation, special equipment and tools. Not everyone has the skills to cut a thread or weld a seam. The connections must be laid with tow and lubricated with sealant. In general, it's quite troublesome.
It's difficult to crash into a pipe. Again, equipment and skills are required.

That is why the most common type of plumbing work is replacing metal pipes with plastic ones.

The same pros/cons occur with a galvanized pipe, with the difference that its service life is slightly longer. But installation is more hassle, so it’s better to invite professionals.

Copper pipes

Previously they were considered elite, when there were no plastic pipelines yet.

Copper has a number of positive properties for which it continues to be praised to this day:

The antibacterial effect of copper is well known, which is the main reason for its use.
Thermal conductivity. Copper is an excellent heat transfer agent, allowing it to operate over a very wide temperature range, especially in the refrigeration industry. Copper does not become brittle at low temperatures.
Reliability and aesthetics. Copper withstands high pressure, its linear expansion is minimal, i.e. it does not “play” when temperatures change.
Copper is a natural, environmentally friendly material.

Among the minuses, we highlight the following:

The high cost of the pipe, since copper is a rather expensive material.
Installation requires professional skills. Copper is crimped with a press or soldered by capillary welding. In both cases, it is better to use the services of specialists.
There may be “stray” currents in the copper pipeline circuit, so it is better to entrust the installation diagram to a specialist.

Copper pipe is produced in coils and in straight sections, it depends on the diameter of the pipe. Therefore, if you want to quickly and permanently replace the pipes in your apartment, you can easily use the copper option, but be sure to involve professionals.

Metal-plastic pipes

This is the most common option today. This is explained simply - very easy and affordable installation, plus the inexpensive cost of materials. It turns out to be a kind of budget-home option.

This pipe is a five-layer structure in which the outer and inner polyethylene layers are glued to an aluminum layer with adhesive layers. The result is a kind of sandwich that is easy to bend and assemble.

Advantages of a metal-plastic pipe:

Easy to assemble. Repairing pipes in an apartment is like putting together a children's construction set.
Pipeline cost. This is the most economical method of piping.
Savings on workers' compensation. The amount saved is quite significant. You yourself are quite capable of assembling the entire pipe at the proper level, unless you change the valves at the entrance to the apartment with the help of professionals.
You can always cut into a finished pipeline, and it won’t take much time.

Over time, the connections will become loose and will need to be tightened. Therefore, such a pipe can only be hidden in the floor or walls if it is installed using press equipment.
Quite low reliability. The joints may begin to leak as a result of water hammer or a large temperature difference.

Advice: when choosing a pipe, make sure that it does not flake and is seamless. Otherwise, you won’t have any hassle during installation.

There are a number of nuances in how to properly connect metal-plastic pipes:

Cut the pipe with special scissors, which you hold strictly perpendicular to the pipe. Otherwise, an uneven cut will cause problems when tightening the fitting nut.

Cutting a metal-plastic pipe

Calibrate the edge of the pipe with the nut and ring on to ensure an even calibration without distortion.

Use a spring-loaded pipe bender whenever possible. A metal-plastic pipe bends very easily, but if the bend is significant, it can simply “fold”.

This will save you on fittings and reduce the number of connections.

Polypropylene pipes

These pipes are gaining popularity in the segment of indoor plumbing, heating and sewerage. The reason for the growing popularity of such water supply connections when installing polypropylene pipes. To connect PP pipes, a special soldering iron is used, which heats the pipe and fitting evenly to a temperature of 260 degrees and then the products are simply connected.

Diffusion welding occurs, i.e. penetration of particles from one part of a product into another (diffusion).

Often, replacing heating pipes in an apartment is carried out using polypropylene pipes.

They are produced in a wide range of types, which divides the pipe according to temperature purpose.

We list the types of polypropylene pipes and their purpose:

PN-10. The simplest polypropylene pipe. Used only for cold water supply.

Thin-walled pipe PN-10

PN-20. Universal pipe. Can be used for both cold and hot water supply.

Universal pipe PN-20

Important! Polypropylene is a material that greatly changes volume depending on temperature. For example, if the temperature changes by 100 degrees, a 10 m long pipe will become 15 cm longer! This is a lot, so to avoid pipe ruptures for heating and hot water supply, use a special reinforced pipe.

PN-25. Reinforced pipe used for any water supply and heating.

There are three types of reinforcement:

External reinforcement with foil. Such a pipe must be cleared of foil to the soldering depth, otherwise the connection will not work.

Pipe with external reinforcement

Internal fiberglass reinforcement.

Pipe with internal foil reinforcement

This version of the pipe can also have a polyethylene layer instead of the inner PP layer, which somewhat improves the temperature characteristics of the pipe as a whole.

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment with polypropylene pipes also has its positive and negative sides.

Very reliable connection. When choosing the right type of pipe, the water supply system as a whole is practically not deformed as a result of temperature changes. The connection point does not leak.
Polypropylene is easily cut using special scissors, as in the example of a metal-plastic pipe, the edges are easily processed.
After a little practice, the process of soldering pipes is not difficult; this work is accessible to almost everyone.

The pipes are somewhat bulky, since they have rather large wall thicknesses.
Pipe rigidity and dimensions must be carefully adjusted.
If the section of pipe and fitting heated by a soldering iron is not immediately connected, then it will no longer be possible to reheat it due to structural changes in the material. Just take a new piece of pipe and a new fitting.

Advice: take the pipe and fitting with a reserve for unforeseen circumstances, with an agreement to return the remaining unused parts back to the store. Sellers do this without any problems.

Advice: if you install a polypropylene water supply system, replacing water pipes will not cause you any significant difficulties. In addition to the pipe and fitting, you will also have to purchase some tools that will always come in handy, but we do not recommend purchasing a special soldering iron. The thing is quite expensive and can only be used in soldering polypropylene pipes. Although, if you plan to do installation on an ongoing basis, then it’s a different matter.

Options for sewer pipes made of polypropylene

To install heating from polypropylene heating pipes, take only reinforced pipes, and fiberglass reinforcement is preferable. Such a pipe practically does not “play” due to temperature changes.

Sewer pipes are also made from polypropylene. It looks very aesthetically pleasing, although the installation of sewer pipes made of polypropylene is recommended only for the internal sewer system.

If, after reading this article, you still do not decide to carry out the work of replacing the pipeline yourself, then, at least, you will already be able to properly monitor the implementation of this work by the builders. Well, write an application for replacement of pipes to the installation organization, agree with the workers on the completeness, draw up a plan and start repairing. Everything will work out.

Replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands: repairing them and how to properly connect metal-plastic heating pipes

This article talks about replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands. Explanations are given on how to repair pipes and replace water pipes

Sooner or later there comes a time when it becomes necessary to replace the pipes in the bathroom due to objective necessity. Unfortunately, no one can avoid the onset of this situation; you can only be fully prepared when the moment comes. This is what we suggest you do.

In this article we detail let's look at the reasons, as a result of which the issue of replacement becomes relevant. We will also analyze all the stages of replacing pipes in the bathroom, starting from dismantling old communications, selecting materials and laying new ones.

The article presents video materials and detailed instructions with which you can easily do everything yourself.

Find out when replacement is required

This may be due to the following circumstances:

physical wear expressed in the formation of leaks;
clogging of old metal pipelines with corrosion products and lime deposits on the walls, which can lead to complete blocking of the lumen in them;
vibration of the pipeline system due to pressure changes, which can lead to complete destruction of the water supply system.

Let's determine what pipelines are installed in the bathroom. To do this, let’s pay attention to the temperature of the water in them. She may be:

hot – for domestic needs;
cold - in the order of general water supply for various household needs and mixing with hot water to the desired temperature;
hot heating system;
since on average more than a cubic meter of water can be spent per person for household needs alone, the task of removing used liquid through a gravity sewer system is urgent (in private houses in the summer season this amount increases to 3 cubic meters).

Not so long ago, for the installation of pipelines in the bathroom, steel water and gas pipes were used, manufactured in accordance with GOST 3262-80 with dimensions of a quarter of an inch and above.

For the bathroom, the optimal size was usually chosen to be up to an inch and a quarter in size. Before you change the pipes in the bathroom yourself, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the stages of the process. We'll look at them below.

Dismantling of outdated communications

Dismantling occurs in the following sequence:

Initially, you need to turn off the water on the hot and cold water supply risers.
Before you make the replacement yourself, you need to dismantle the old networks. To do this, you need to disconnect the inlet pipe from the riser, and make sure that the inlet shut-off valve holds water well; if necessary, install a plug in this place. Even with a small leak, flooding of neighbors below is inevitable, and this should be avoided.
Dismantled materials must be cut into sections. This is done to make it convenient to take them out of the apartment or house.
Remove the water supply fixtures on the walls of the room by first removing the tiles (if any) from the walls. It should be borne in mind that it is not recommended to reuse them, since modern methods of installation and design of clamps are very different from those used previously. It is necessary to remove not only the clamps or brackets, but also the dowels with which they were secured. Holes in the walls must be carefully sealed with cement-sand mortar or its equivalent.
Dismantling of the drain system is carried out by disassembling the connections. The fastenings from them are first removed. Concrete supports are subject to replacement and must be left in place. They can be used when installing a new sewer system to maintain the standard slope.

The reason for replacing them is the age of the old drain system. Previously, cast iron products were used, the inner surface of which is rough, which contributes to increased clogging, and therefore requires frequent cleaning when clogged.

Therefore, replacing the drain pipe in the bathroom seems to be a mandatory step. The drain system riser is usually located in the toilet room; only with combined bathrooms can it be found in the bathroom. But this object is not in the area of responsibility of the tenant or the owner of the property, the management company should take care of its replacement.

Replacement of the pipe riser in the bathtub must be carried out by the utility organization at the request of the homeowner.

Which pipes to choose for a replacement bathroom?

Modern materials have many advantages compared to those that were used before (cast iron, ferrous metal, etc.). Nowadays, so-called plastic materials are widespread.

Watch the video

These include polypropylene, cross-linked polyethylene, metal-plastic, etc. We strongly recommend using them, and later in the article we will justify our statement.

Before replacing the pipes in the bathroom with plastic ones, you need to determine the type of material to be replaced. The construction market is filled with products of various brands; to understand which ones to use, consider their advantages and disadvantages.

Watch the video

Sewage system, what we pay attention to when choosing

Here the choice is small - you can use traditional cast iron or new generation plastic products.

Plastic ones work better because their internal surface is of better quality and does not contribute to the formation of blockages. They are also lightweight, making them easy to transport to site.

It is also not difficult to install them. The connections are made into a socket, where rubber cuffs are used as a seal. All sizes are fully provided with fittings for creating drain networks of any degree of complexity.

Materials for the production of sewer pipes are:

Polyethylene (PE) is a product of the polymerization of ethylene gas at elevated temperatures and pressure. Depending on the production technology, a distinction is made between low-density polyethylene (HDPE) and high-pressure polyethylene (HDPE). It should be remembered that the first material is better in terms of strength and temperature characteristics.
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
Polypropylene (PP).

Other polymer plastics are also used for the production of sewer pipes, but much less frequently. They will not be considered as part of our review.

To replace the drain pipe in the bathroom, it is better to use polypropylene products that can stably withstand temperatures up to +75 degrees Celsius and short-term increases up to +95.

It is doubtful that the discharge in this part of the system will reach these values. For the external drain network, it is quite possible to use low-density polyethylene (HDPE), since the liquid in them has a lower temperature, and they cost noticeably less.

To replace drainage systems in the bathroom, pipes measuring 30-40 millimeters, less often 50, are used.

Before you change the pipes in the bathroom to plastic ones, you need to study all their characteristics and choose the appropriate option.

Selecting material for hot water pressure pipelines

What makes it advisable to use plastic products is their inability to form plaque on the internal walls. Chemically, the material is absolutely passive and resistant to most household aggressive substances, and limescale simply does not form on them.

The most dangerous effect is exerted by oxygen in the air, which penetrates into the water from the outside through the pores and microcracks in the product.

At the same time, it does not directly affect the material, but contributes to accelerated chemical wear of the metal parts of the pipeline, which in the bathroom is the heated towel rail and shut-off valves. As a result, they often need to be replaced.

To eliminate this drawback, oxygen protection was invented. For this, aluminum tape with a thickness of 0.1 millimeters is used. It is wound onto a base, which is a pipe-shaped blank, along a helical line.

During the production process, the joint is continuously welded using a laser machine. Then another layer of plastic is applied over the metal jacket. In this way, a three-layer product is obtained, in which the internal cavity is hermetically protected from oxygen penetration.

At its end section, the metal shirt can be seen as a thin shiny strip. In addition to the standard marking, a longitudinal red stripe is applied to the outer surface.

For hot water piping, it is preferable to replace the pipes in the bathroom with polypropylene pipes with oxygen protection.

Cold water pressure pipes made of plastic

Products made from various materials are suitable for such purposes. A safety margin for pressure is given to them by the installation of a fiberglass reinforcing belt.

The production technology resembles the installation of a protective jacket made of aluminum, only instead of it fiberglass threads are wound. On the end section, such a reinforcing layer is distinguished by a dark concentric stripe. The outer surface is marked with a blue longitudinal stripe.

For internal wiring when replacing a bathroom, products with a diameter of 20-25 millimeters are used, for bends to specific consoles - 16.

Tools and materials that we will need during work

Replacing plastic pipes in the bathroom involves the use of a certain set of tools and devices for installing water supply networks. Its composition is determined by the characteristics of the materials used.

Tools for working with PVC products include cutting scissors. The main requirement when performing this operation is strict perpendicularity of the cut, since the main connection methods are cold welding or socket joining. In this case, sometimes, in addition to the rubber cuff, an additional sealant seal is used.

If the choice of replacement for the bathroom is polypropylene products for internal wiring, then for joining you will need a soldering iron of a special design and a cutting device.

The physical characteristics of polypropylene products do not allow them to be produced in rolls, so connections play an important role in laying.

During installation, a variety of fittings are used, allowing you to create water supply networks of any complexity. If necessary, the use of combined components is provided for metal-plastic transition.

When installing polyethylene pipes for joining during installation, two different methods are used: for products with a diameter of 20 - 63 millimeters, fittings are used, for other sizes - end welding.

Cross-linked polyethylene products are used to create networks for both cold and hot water supply in the bathroom. The connection is made with specially designed compression fittings. Crimping devices are used to install them.

When working with metal-plastic products, the ends of the parts that need to be joined are cleaned. It is performed with a special tool - trimmer, which must also be available.

Obviously, other general-purpose tools may be needed during the work process:

Electric drill for drilling holes in walls for installing brackets - holders.
Drills or drills for concrete of the required sizes.
A hammer drill for punching holes in walls through which replacement pipes will pass.
A cement-sand mixture will be needed to seal holes in the walls after laying, respectively, a trowel and other tools.
To cut an old water supply when replacing the system, you will need an angle grinder - an angle grinder, equipped with a disk for cutting metal.

Fasteners for installing pipes, including brackets, dowels (plastic inserts into holes), screws.
Screwdriver or set of screwdrivers.

The amount of basic materials depends on the chosen water supply installation scheme.

Selecting a pipe laying system and stages of replacing the main line

The traditional method of laying a network in the bathroom is the tee method. To implement it, they lay the main pipe from the riser to the final point of consumption. It is laid along the wall and attached to it with brackets.

Watch the video

As the next water intake point is reached, a tee is installed on it, from which a flexible hose is used to connect it to the tap or mixer. In parallel, a second pipe is installed - hot water supply and in the same way the connection to the corresponding tap is made.

It should be noted that replacement of old pipes in the bathroom is not carried out separately. It is performed simultaneously for the entire water supply system.

Tee communication wiring diagram. Algorithm for replacing old pipe materials with new ones

The sequence of individual connections in the bathroom from the beginning of the system to the end may look like this:

Install coarse and fine water filters after the valve on the riser. Hot and cold water flow meters are also connected at this location.
Extend the outlet from the riser to the first water intake point. To connect it, you may need a metal-to-plastic adapter; this is a standard product. The main pipe can be used in sizes 20 or 25 millimeters
Install a tee to drain to the first point of consumption, usually a toilet or bidet, since the riser is traditionally located in the toilet. Then the second point will also be located here to connect the toilet. Only cold water is connected to it.
Next, the system is carried out through the wall into the bathroom, where tees for the bathtub, washing machine and washbasin need to be installed in sequence.
From the bathroom, wiring is carried out to the kitchen, where water intake points are outlets for the sink, kitchen machine and other equipment that consumes water.
At the last section of the water intake, an elbow or plug is installed in the tee.

In this way, new communications for cold and hot water are laid when replacing old ones. The number of fittings required, including flexible bends with a diameter of 16 millimeters, is determined by the number of water intake points. An exception is made for the toilet, to which hot water is not supplied.

Watch the video

IMPORTANT! The advantage of this connection scheme is the economical consumption of materials; practically the total length of each pipeline for cold and hot water is equal to the length of the distance from the entry point to the end of the communication.

The disadvantages are the following:

The need to disconnect all wiring during repairs or maintenance.
A drop in water pressure in the system when several water intake points are turned on simultaneously.

Watch the video

Algorithm for replacing pipe materials with a manifold wiring diagram

The essence of this method is to install a dispensing station - a collector, from which distribution is made to the points of water consumption. For supply to the collector during the replacement process, a pipe of 20 or 25 millimeters is used, for individual branches - 16 - 20.

The device itself is a metal or plastic body, from which branches equipped with ball valves extend. Naturally, separate collectors are installed for the cold and hot water networks. When replaced, each branch is connected to the corresponding tap or mixer.

This method of distributing water throughout the system allows, if necessary, to disconnect the corresponding branch on the collector and carry out repair work.

Watch the video

If flexible polyethylene or polypropylene pipes are used for replacement wiring, pieces of the required size are measured and cut from the coil to the actual size. To do this, a ruler is applied to the outer surface, allowing you to determine the length without unnecessary measurements, even in cramped conditions.

When used to replace polyvinyl chloride pipes, assembly is carried out in sections on a workbench. . Upon completion of welding of a section of several parts, it is finally installed in weight, using the help of a partner.

The pipes are secured to the walls using a plastic bracket. It is fastened with a self-tapping screw into a hole with a dowel, the pipe is inserted into the grooves on the bracket. Subsequently, all pipes can be closed with a box mounted on the wall.

When using jointless branches, they can be hidden in the wall, but the amount of gating is quite significant.

ATTENTION! This method of wiring is strictly not recommended if there are threaded or soldered joints. If a leak is detected, it will be almost impossible to determine its location, so you will have to break down a large part of the wall for repairs.

The brackets are installed on the wall at a distance of no more than a meter from each other, as well as at the points of entry and exit from the turn. Upon completion of installation, when replacing, it is necessary to carry out pressure testing of a new water pipeline.

Pressure testing of the water supply system

This is a mandatory activity, it can be entrusted to specialists, but it is quite easy to do it yourself. Equipment for this - a driven or manual crimping machine - can be purchased at the construction market, or you can simply take it to the arena for a few days.

The system is pressure tested in the following order:

Familiarize yourself with the initial data for pipes on the maximum permissible pressure. This indicator is indicated in the quality certificate and cannot be exceeded.
Read the unit's instructions and act in accordance with its recommendations.
Fill the system with water and connect the device.
Bring the pressure in the system to 4.8 atmospheres (working pressure), check for leaks, and, if necessary, eliminate defects.
Continue pumping the liquid to a pressure of 7.2 atm (5.8 x 1.5), repeat the control operation.
To be completely sure, raise the pressure in the system to 9 atmospheres and leave it in this position for a day.

Ideally, after this time, the pressure in the system should remain unchanged.

Check the remaining circuits in the same way.

Replacement of riser, sewer and drain pipes

Internal distribution of free-flow water supply is carried out with pipes of 30-40 millimeters, and with a large number of water intake points - 50. When installing socket pipes during the replacement process, a slope of at least three millimeters per meter of system length must be maintained.

The replacement of this communication in an apartment building is carried out by the operating organization.

In a private house, the riser is replaced independently using a pipe of 100 or 80 millimeters. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of the drainage section.

Watch the video

When replacing the pipes on it, you need to align them. This requirement is due to the fact that the liquid in the sewer line is a suspension. When draining with a large slope, the liquid drains faster than solid particles, and they settle on the walls, forming a blockage.

How to change a faucet

To replace this device you must:

shut off the water supply to this circuit at the collector;
unscrew the flexible hot and cold water connections from the mixer;
unscrew the clamping nut and remove the mixer from the socket;
install the new device in the reverse order;
turn on the water in the circuit, check the connections for leaks.

Watch video - changing the mixer

Replacement of the pipe in the bathroom to the mixer is carried out as necessary when a leak is detected, if it is impossible to shorten it. You can do this yourself without the participation of a plumber.

What you need to know about replacing a heated towel rail

Replacing a heated towel rail in a bathroom with plastic pipes is possible only if the coolant temperature does not exceed 75 degrees. Its connection is made from the heating circuit. The device must be securely mounted on the wall.

Watch the video - how to replace a heated towel rail

The system must include a tap to release the air lock from the heated towel rail, otherwise there will be no coolant circulation.

Replacing water pipes in an apartment with your own hands is within the capabilities of anyone, however, this task is far from being as simple as it seems. Let's look at the nuances together.

Exists four main types of pipe, which is installed inside the apartment.

Pipes are:

Steel, galvanized, cast iron.
Copper.
Metal-plastic.
Polypropylene, PVC.

Each material has its pros and cons. Let's look at them.

Steel, galvanized pipes

Steel pipes came to us from the last century. It’s just that there were no pipes made of artificial materials before.

So we had to install heavy steel pipes, cutting threads, using welding and a torch. The plumbers of that time were very physically developed people.

Advantages of steel pipes:

Reliability. Such pipes are connected using a threaded or welded method, and the connection becomes monolithic.
Strength. Steel pipe is quite durable.

But the disadvantages of such a pipe still outweigh the advantages:

Fragility. Maximum 20 years, and the pipe must be replaced, because... from the inside it becomes impassable.

Heavy installation, special equipment and tools. Not everyone has the skills to cut a thread or weld a seam. The connections must be laid with tow and lubricated with sealant. In general, it's quite troublesome.
It's difficult to crash into a pipe. Again, equipment and skills are required.

That is why the most common type of plumbing work is replacing metal pipes with plastic ones.

The same pros/cons occur with a galvanized pipe, with the difference that its service life is slightly longer. But installation is more hassle, so it’s better to invite professionals.

Copper pipes

Previously they were considered elite, when there were no plastic pipelines yet.

Copper has a number of positive properties for which it continues to be praised to this day:

The antibacterial effect of copper is well known, which is the main reason for its use.
Thermal conductivity. Copper is an excellent heat transfer agent, allowing it to operate over a very wide temperature range, especially in the refrigeration industry. Copper does not become brittle at low temperatures.
Reliability and aesthetics. Copper withstands high pressure, its linear expansion is minimal, i.e. it does not “play” when temperatures change.
Copper is a natural, environmentally friendly material.

Among the minuses, we highlight the following:

The high cost of the pipe, since copper is a rather expensive material.
Installation requires professional skills. Copper is crimped with a press or soldered by capillary welding. In both cases, it is better to use the services of specialists.
There may be “stray” currents in the copper pipeline circuit, so it is better to entrust the installation diagram to a specialist.

Metal-plastic pipes

This is the most common option today. This is explained simply - very easy and affordable installation, plus the inexpensive cost of materials. It turns out to be a kind of budget-home option.

Advantages of a metal-plastic pipe:

Easy to assemble. Repairing pipes in an apartment is like putting together a children's construction set.
Pipeline cost. This is the most economical method of piping.
Savings on workers' compensation. The amount saved is quite significant. You yourself are quite capable of assembling the entire pipe at the proper level, unless you change the valves at the entrance to the apartment with the help of professionals.
You can always cut into a finished pipeline, and it won’t take much time.

Over time, the connections will become loose and will need to be tightened. Therefore, such a pipe can only be hidden in the floor or walls if it is installed using press equipment.
Quite low reliability. The joints may begin to leak as a result of water hammer or a large temperature difference.

Advice: when choosing a pipe, make sure that it does not flake and is seamless. Otherwise, you won’t have any hassle during installation.

There are a number of nuances in how to properly connect metal-plastic pipes:

Cut the pipe with special scissors, which you hold strictly perpendicular to the pipe. Otherwise, an uneven cut will cause problems when tightening the fitting nut.

Calibrate the edge of the pipe with the nut and ring on to ensure an even calibration without distortion.

Use a spring-loaded pipe bender whenever possible. A metal-plastic pipe bends very easily, but if the bend is significant, it can simply “fold”.

This will save you on fittings and reduce the number of connections.

These pipes are gaining popularity in the segment of indoor plumbing, heating and sewerage. The reason for the growing popularity as connections of such a water supply when.

To connect PP pipes, a special soldering iron is used, which heats the pipe and fitting evenly to a temperature of 260 degrees and then the products are simply connected.

Diffusion welding occurs, i.e. penetration of particles from one part of a product into another (diffusion).

Often, replacing heating pipes in an apartment is carried out using polypropylene pipes.

They are produced in a wide range of types, which divides the pipe according to temperature purpose.

We list the types of polypropylene pipes and their purpose:

PN-10. The simplest polypropylene pipe. Used only for cold water supply.

PN-20. Universal pipe. Can be used for both cold and hot water supply.

Important! Polypropylene is a material that greatly changes volume depending on temperature. For example, if the temperature changes by 100 degrees, a 10 m long pipe will become 15 cm longer!

This is a lot, so to avoid pipe ruptures for heating and hot water supply, use a special reinforced pipe.

PN-25. Reinforced pipe used for any water supply and heating.

There are three types of reinforcement:

External reinforcement with foil. Such a pipe must be cleared of foil to the soldering depth, otherwise the connection will not work.

Internal fiberglass reinforcement.

Internal reinforcement with foil.

This version of the pipe can also have a polyethylene layer instead of the inner PP layer, which somewhat improves the temperature characteristics of the pipe as a whole.

Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment with polypropylene pipes also has its positive and negative sides.

Very reliable connection. When choosing the right type of pipe, the water supply system as a whole is practically not deformed as a result of temperature changes. The connection point does not leak.
Polypropylene is easily cut using special scissors, as in the example of a metal-plastic pipe, the edges are easily processed.
After a little practice, the process of soldering pipes is not difficult; this work is accessible to almost everyone.

The pipes are somewhat bulky, since they have rather large wall thicknesses.
Pipe rigidity and dimensions must be carefully adjusted.
If the section of pipe and fitting heated by a soldering iron is not immediately connected, then it will no longer be possible to reheat it due to structural changes in the material. Just take a new piece of pipe and a new fitting.

Advice: take the pipe and fitting with a reserve for unforeseen circumstances, with an agreement to return the remaining unused parts back to the store. Sellers do this without any problems.

Advice: if you install a polypropylene water supply system, replacing water pipes will not cause you any significant difficulties. In addition to the pipe and fitting, you will also have to purchase some tools that will always come in handy, but we do not recommend purchasing a special soldering iron. The thing is quite expensive and can only be used in soldering polypropylene pipes. Although, if you plan to do installation on an ongoing basis, then it’s a different matter.

For heating, use only reinforced pipes, and fiberglass reinforcement is preferable. Such a pipe practically does not “play” due to temperature changes.

Sewer pipes are also made from polypropylene. It looks very aesthetically pleasing, although it is made of polypropylene and is recommended only for the internal sewer system.

Hello dear reader! Nothing lasts forever. . They are installed in every home and in every home, sooner or later they cease to satisfy us. In this article we will try to tell you when heating pipes need to be replaced and we will introduce you to the technology of work.

Traditional heating systems made of steel pipes are becoming obsolete not only morally.

The main disadvantages of such systems are:

steel and cast iron are prone to corrosion - after many years of operation, pipelines may leak;
“overgrowth” with calcium salts and a significant decrease in efficiency, clogging of radiators with rust;
inability to shut off the radiator or heating system in one room - it is necessary to turn off the entire riser in an apartment building or a completely private house;
inability to bleed air from the radiators in the apartment.

Old wiring is often not done according to the design, or the design was not well thought out - and as a result, the room is cold. The presence of air in the coolant also creates inconvenience in the form of cold radiators and noisy risers.

When is the best time to change the system?

The ideal time to replace your heating is summer. There is no coolant in the system and neighbors in an apartment building will not complain. There is time to think, purchase materials and complete the work carefully and without haste.

But if a leak occurs and repairing the heating pipes in the apartment is impossible or ineffective (it is impossible to close multiple rusted places with clamps), then there is nowhere to go - we replace it at any time of the year.

What to replace it with?

Selecting types of heating pipes. Below are their characteristics:

steel (regular carbon). Inexpensive, but prone to corrosion and overgrowing with calcium salts; pipes are connected by welding - a welding unit and a welder are required. Splashes of metal during welding can spoil any repair - and it is not always possible to completely cover the floor and walls in the place where metal is welded;
galvanization. Galvanization does not rust for many years, then behaves like a pipe made of ordinary steel. The disadvantages are the same;
stainless steel. Does not rust or overgrow. Quite difficult to weld. It has proven itself well in private houses, but is not very appropriate in apartment buildings;
copper. Durable, expensive, very difficult to assemble - not every specialist can do tin soldering;
stainless corrugated pipe. Does not rust or overgrow. Very flexible, which reduces the number of joints. Easy to cut and install. It is assembled onto fittings that require periodic inspection and maintenance (replacement of seals). It tolerates temperature changes and pressure surges well. Does not withstand significant mechanical loads. Not the cheapest material.
polypropylene pipes (PPR). Polypropylene is easy to install and solder, bends well, does not rust, deforms little when heated, and easily connects to metal through adapters. Inexpensive material;
polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes. They do not rust, are slightly deformed when heated, are easily soldered and assembled into fittings. Inexpensive material;
metal-plastic. It has reinforcement made of aluminum tape, plastic - PVC or cross-linked polyethylene. Inexpensive and popular material. They are mounted on special fittings, bend well, and do not rust. They have a small thickness and low mechanical strength - there is a risk of damage. Withstands temperatures up to 95°C;
pipes with a modified molecular system - pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene PEX. They can withstand temperatures from −110 to +110 °C, operating temperatures up to 95 °C, and are used for pipelines when operating at subzero temperatures. Very durable, bend well, do not rust, mounted using fittings.

In general, for replacing heating risers in apartments, the best option is plastic and metal-plastic, since there is no point in installing an expensive metal pipe in a separate apartment, and no one guarantees that the building has grounding for utility networks. In a country house, the choice of material is determined by personal preferences and financial capabilities.

DIY installation

Tools and materials

To install the battery you will need the following materials:

Radiator. The number of sections is the same as that of the previously installed cast iron radiator. In a private house, the number of sections in rooms can be adjusted;
set of plugs (4 pcs.);
Mayevsky valve for air release, thread suitable for the diameter of the hole in the plug;
fastenings with dowels;
coupling with external thread - for plastic pipes (MPN);
two valves for installing batteries (combined with a union nut (“American”)), the diameter of the nut should be ½″, the diameter of the valve coincides with the hole in the plug. A private house usually requires an angle valve, an apartment house - a straight one;
gaskets for plugs, for valves and American wires, for connecting battery sections (in general, for sizes ½″, ¾″, 40 mm or 1 ¾″. The best option is heat-resistant silicone or fluoroplastic, but some prefer hard paronite. Tape made of fluorocarbon material .

The materials for assembling risers depend on the type of pipes: in any case, these will be pipes, bends, tees, plastic couplings and threaded adapter couplings; fastenings with dowels; for metal - threads, union nuts or bends, electrodes, solder. It should be taken into account that the maximum pressure in the system reaches 16 atmospheres (1.6 MPa), temperature - up to 95°C. In any case, two valves are needed for each riser - so that you can turn off the heating in each room.

For the supply, a diameter of ½″ is usually chosen (for plastic 20 mm); the diameter of the new riser must be equal to the diameter of the existing risers.

Equipment and fittings:

Bulgarian;
electric drill;
adjustable wrenches - 2 pcs.;
pliers;
die for cutting threads on metal pipes;
special radiator wrench for assembling radiators;
soldering iron for plastic, copper or welding machine for steel pipes;
tape measure and caliper.

Don't forget about glasses for working with the tool; a canvas suit, gloves and a mask for a welder - safety precautions will help you preserve your health.

Reset risers

Before changing the heating in the apartment, it is necessary to drain the risers and close them (after coordinating your actions with the housing office employees). If possible, you should reach an agreement with your neighbors and replace risers and water lines in all apartments - from top to bottom. If we fail to reach an agreement, then we will have to cut the riser in our apartment.

In a private house it’s easier - you need to turn off the heating device, drain the system - and you can work.

Thread cutting

Heating appliances and pipes are dismantled using a grinder. The pipes at the top and bottom need to be cut very carefully and evenly, then the threads are cut with a die, the MPV is screwed on and the valve is for plastic; a brass valve is installed - for steel wiring.

Assembly

Radiators are sold in sections of 5 pieces, and before installation, you should assemble the sections into one large radiator of the required size using a radiator wrench, screw in plugs, Mayevsky tap, and valves.

Radiator installation

First, the radiators are installed - the installation location is outlined, foil insulation (foamed polyethylene with foil) is glued to the wall, fasteners are installed using dowels and the radiator is hung.

Installation of risers

The location of the riser and liner is marked. Plastic is cut to the required size and soldered or assembled using fittings. The plastic is soldered to the valve, and connected to the radiator via MPH using a union nut on the valve.

Metal pipes are also cut, steel pipes are welded, and external threads are cut at the ends. Then they are mounted using fasteners. To the existing riser, the new riser is connected to the valve using a spigot or union nut.

Threads are welded to the ends of the lines to the heating radiator and connected to the radiator taps using a union nut. Valves allow you to shut off the supply of hot water to each individual room. The corrugated pipe and copper are connected using special fittings.

Features of the work in a private house: usually the entire system is changed completely, the supply and return lines are laid along the floor in fastenings.

Installation of a heated floor system is carried out during a major overhaul of the floor - after all, the heating pipe is hidden in the screed. For this purpose, pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene and PVC are used. The pipes must be laid in a protective casing made from another pipe, and valves must also be installed at the inlet and outlet.

Pressure testing and start-up

Then the system is tested and launched. Pressure testing is filling the heating system with water or air under pressure. When performing work without the involvement of housing office workers, they usually use the method of filling with water as the only available one, although it is more risky. When filling with water, air should be bled at the extreme points of the system. If during testing no installation defects or leaks were detected, the system is considered to be running. Any leaks found should be repaired and pressure testing repeated.

After starting the system, you need to check for a few more days to see if the system is airy and bleed the air.

Frequent errors and problems

The most common errors in the installation of heating systems are:

non-compliance with the project;
lack of Mayevsky cranes. Air enters the system due to poor operation of the pumps in the boiler room, and comes out dissolved in water - it must be bled off periodically;
when pouring a heated floor with a screed, the system’s tightness is not checked;
they filled the floor heating system with screed without filling it with water - as a result, the screed cracked;
Poor soldering and welding of pipes can lead to leakage.

Conclusion

We hope that the article was useful to the reader. Thank you for your attention! Read, use, share information with friends on social networks!

The old water supply in the apartment has rotted. Sweat on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water and then turn it on again - rust pours out of the taps. And there are plans to renovate the kitchen and bathroom, and the old pipes are scary to look at, let alone touch or breathe. It needs to be changed, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment water supply with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits or registrations. You will only need to negotiate with the DEZ mechanic to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; Most likely, you will be able to handle it in about 10 minutes. Or warn your neighbors, if not harmful, and shut it off/restart it yourself.

Replacement procedure

Replacement of the water supply system is carried out in a certain sequence. Work “by eye” and “as you go” when done unprofessionally often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

Selection of material for new pipes.
Selecting a hot and cold water distribution scheme.
Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
Calculation of pipe diameter according to the selected material and design.
Preparing the installation tool.
Purchase of materials.
Assembling sampling and accounting units, installing them on risers and registering.
Dismantling old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
Connecting a flask filter (required with HMS).
Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
Installation and connection of the boiler.

GMS, flask filter and aquastop

The HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, transforms impurities in water into a thin suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply or maintenance during operation, but it does require the installation of an antimagnetic water meter (these are more expensive) and, following the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first collects sludge, the second removes chlorine, and the third carries out fine water purification and softening. The latter (no one drinks tap water for a long time) is especially important for the boiler of a washing machine.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - don’t be indignant, but drinking water remains firmly in the top ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs capable of bringing its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not expected. In general, saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply or maintenance, but its function is different. When there is a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an antimagnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new water supply system in an apartment begins with the selection of pipes. Steel has outlived its usefulness in everyday life, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and soldered copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most critical - the wrong choice will negate all efforts, expenses and hassle.

Copper

One thing you can say right away about copper water pipes is that their promoters don’t know what they’re talking about. Or they know, but don’t set it for themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, humans need copper, but in insignificant quantities in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper and chlorine form a protective film from water. Absurd for anyone who even remembers school chemistry.

Secondly, copper solder contains tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into another, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, friable powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly yourself.

Metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but you can connect them with your own hands without experience. Metal-plastic water supply is assembled on special threaded units with gaskets or crimp fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure losses in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press pliers and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, the work is easy, and using improvised means is a complete guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time the joint begins to drip. Therefore, it is unacceptable to bury metal-plastic in walls, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in grooves.

It is recommended to install metal-plastic water pipes in separate open areas, where minimal resistance to water flow and the ability to simply and quickly repair the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment water supply has now become a standard, but there are different plastics. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Maintains temperature up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Quite expensive. Used for installing heated floors.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water supply you need polyethylene reinforced pipes; ordinary polyethylene no longer holds 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so there is still the possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the least of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice plug bursts them apart, and when it melts, they shrink again and don’t burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of polyethylene water supply is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground areas. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is necessary.

PVC

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are quite well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very durable and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, are more fragile than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC is, of course, more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: by heating the joint with a household hairdryer, the joint can be pulled apart and then glued back together. In general, this is a budget option or for a novice craftsman, with the length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest water collection point no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 extraction points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying residential water supply pipes with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, correctly soldered holds up to 12 at. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but still the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages to doing it yourself:

It does not glue, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. A tile walled up in a wall or hidden in a groove can bend and break, so when laying each pipe you need to put on a stocking made of Merylon or synthetic padding, which makes the work more expensive.

However, today the propylene pipeline is the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in lower temperatures (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Soldering propylene

Soldering cut end-to-end with a homemade soldering iron (iron) (see figure on the right) is unacceptable:

Contaminants accumulate on the “sausage” inside, and a pipeline assembled in this way is more susceptible to clogging than a steel one.
The water pressure, pushing the pipes apart, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is exceeded, and the joint leaks.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The fairly high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is not suitable for anything else, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, there is no need to buy it; it is better to rent it.

For hidden wiring in a typical apartment, in grooves or monolithic, it is definitely propylene.
For long branches with a large number of water points - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. – polyethylene.
For budget repairs or in areas with water shortages, low pressure in the water supply, and poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Comb collectors

There are two schemes for indoor water collection: sequential and parallel. In a sequential scheme, the disassembly points are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of analysis points and/or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces the pressure.

In this case, water collection is done according to a parallel circuit from the “comb” collector, see Fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its own disassembly point. Valves regulate pressure separately at points. The branches on the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in one piece they are quite reliable.

Development of a water collection scheme

You need a water supply diagram in an apartment first of all for yourself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example, in the large picture there is a water supply diagram for a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace pipes in an apartment, you don’t need to bother so much; it’s enough that the diagram is clearly visible and understandable:

Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
Metering devices.
Emergency valves and drains.
Shut-off valves.
Parsing points indicating consumers.
Backup branches and devices.
Direction of water flow.

In order for all this to be clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be followed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see Fig. On the left - more or less ok, but with some comments, on the right - incorrect:

The diagram on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of the actual location of the analysis points: the washing machine and the boiler come out under the floor.
There are also too many arrows indicating current where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the diagram.
In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted unclearly and not according to the rules.
There, the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the low tide?
But in the diagram on the left, it is clear even to a non-specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup one. The comment will be: “Where is the check valve when it’s hot? Without it, when the supply stops, the boiler will drive itself into a hot riser if valve (10) is not closed.” But this is essentially the case and with full understanding.

Correct simplified diagram of plumbing in an apartment

An example of an arbitrary, not according to the rules for drawing up design documentation, but a completely clear and no-nonsense water collection scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of parallel water withdrawal; where the combs are, it’s clear.

Pipe calculation

Before you finally select the pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not needed for “smartness” - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, too small a diameter of the water supply pipe will cause turbulence of the flow in it. In this case, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet the tap will barely ooze.

Accurate calculation of the pipeline is a matter for highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, so that it flows normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

The minimum permissible pressure is 0.3 at.
Pressure loss per 1 m of 16 mm propylene pipe – 0.05 at.
The average pressure loss per unit of fittings and fittings for apartment wiring is 0.15 at.
Pressure loss in the sampling and metering unit – 0.25 at.
At normal pressure values at the entrance to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm in a 12 mm pipe, periodic turbulization is inevitable, but in 16 mm pipes it is not observed.
The headroom for the farthest point is at least twofold.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with sequential wiring, such a popular pipe will have enough pressure for the farthest tap or whether you will have to take a wider and more expensive one. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from a pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate the neighbors based on the same 0.6 atm/floor: if, say, three floors up the taps are still flowing, then we have a good 2 atm. But in high-rise buildings this trick does not work: in order not to increase the cost of apartment wiring excessively, they make separate risers for the lower and upper floors and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: second floor of a nine-story building; Residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 atm of pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm losses. This is too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take a main pipe of 20-25 mm, or route it in a parallel pattern from the comb, otherwise you may remain “dry” in the dry summer weather.

Note: from here it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable it is to lengthen them and clutter them with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is nonlinear: they depend on the flow speed, which, in turn, depends on the cross-section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe sharply reduces losses, so the usual wiring for apartments with a 20 mm pipe with bends to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage systems of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that in this regard there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) " The correct one is the latest SNiP.

Tools, materials, dismantling old

Special tools for assembling residential pipelines are described above. To purchase materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity locally. Dismantling old pipes is done in the usual ways. It is better to do this after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not use valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you urgently need to close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. The round, grooved handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slip on them.

Accounting and control

The sampling and metering unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each device indicates the direction of water flow for it; it must be observed during assembly.

The unit is assembled with waterproofing of the connections using FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having first shut off the water; Before supplying water, you must remember to close the shut-off valve. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, that requires turning off the water supply to the neighbors on the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. Meter readings must be clearly readable without any additional operations (removing the hatch, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble part of a solid pipeline, sometimes in a rather bizarre configuration, to connect the metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transition couplings from plastic to metal MPV - an internal threaded coupling. The plastic is connected to the metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

Meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is there (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one can get into the meter and twist or file anything there. The factory seal must be protected; Without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

To install water meters, you need to notify the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives; the inspector does not need zero readings; he will record the initial ones and seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water according to consumption will be made after registration of metering devices.

GMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow water to be stolen with its help, and this device is not subject to sealing, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter’s turbine can become clogged with sludge. The HMS with a bulb filter is connected after the metering devices; filter - immediately after the GMS. Aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but there is no point in placing the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: overview of layout options for water supply elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we're doing the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has features of a non-construction nature, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should extend no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before pipe laying begins.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MPB angles under the mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws and dowels. When fastening, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without extensive construction experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet pipes flush with the wall. It is better to make them in advance PROTECTING above the finished wall by half the width of the side of the decorative faucet caps: if the caps are non-adjustable, they can be easily adjusted using an emery wheel or manually on an emery block.

The next point is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble them on a table and place them entirely in grooves. But then the question arises: how to install pipes through the walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all made of detachable fittings, and for soldered pipes two methods can be proposed:

Using MRN/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the grooves you can make removable hatches for inspection and repair of threaded connections.
Install pipelines locally. For this you need a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work with cotton gloves so as not to accidentally get burned.

The fourth point is soldering. One soldering requires 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm, etc.

The fifth point is bending metal-plastic pipes. The minimum permissible bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it far exceed the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor, rusted steel pipe.

And finally... This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the water supply system is put into operation. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are closed immediately after installing the pipes, and the pipes are additionally plugged.

Video: example of an installed water supply system

Bottom line

Now you know how to make your own plumbing. Let us emphasize that this work is not difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence or hackwork.