Unfortunately, LED lamps were not as long-lived as expected. And even though each lamp has a warranty for a period of one to five years, problems often arise with the exchange of failed lamps if the lamps were purchased in online stores, at markets or in hardware stores near home.

In Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Castorama and other large stores there are no problems with exchange, and even if the receipt is lost, it can be restored by giving the approximate date of purchase.

The second and third reasons are fairly low prices and a large assortment compared to markets and small shops.

I bought 120 lamps from the Leroy Merlin store and tested them to understand which lamps I could buy there and which ones I shouldn’t.

Leroy now sells about 130 types of LED lamps from eight brands: more than 50 models of lamps from its own brand Lexman (these lamps are guaranteed for five years), about 30 models of Osram (2-year warranty), several models of lamps from Philips, Uniel, Wolta , IEK, Electrostandard, Bellight (mostly 2 year warranty).

First, let's define the criteria for choosing good lamps:

• there should be no light pulsation (pulsation coefficient should not exceed 5%);
• color rendering index (CRI, Ra) must be more than 80;
• there must be a driver with stabilization, allowing them to operate in a wide range of supply voltage without fluctuations in brightness;
• luminous flux and other parameters must correspond to those stated.

Measuring instruments:

• light flow - two-meter integrating sphere and spectrometer Instrument Systems ;
• lighting angle and consumption characteristics - Viso Light Spion;
• power consumption - Robiton PM-2;
• color rendering index, color temperature and ripple - Uprtek MK350D;
• the minimum operating voltage at which the luminous flux decreased by no more than 10% of the nominal - Lamptest-1, stabilizer Shtil Instab 500, LATR Suntek TDGC2-0.5 and precision multimeter Aneng AN8001.

⇡ Bulb lamps with E27 base

Let's start with the good. All lamps have no pulsation; All but one use IC drivers, and the lamps can be operated at reduced voltage without reducing brightness, and the brightness of the lamps does not change when voltage fluctuates. The minimum voltage at which the lamp can operate and produce at least 90% of the rated luminous flux is given for each lamp in the "Min. Voltage" column.

Each manufacturer interprets the power equivalent in its own way (for example, for Lexman 806 lm is 60 W, and for Philips 650 lm is 65 W). OSRAM generally indicates different correspondence to the equivalent luminous flux for different lamps: the matte “pear” 6.8 W indicates 600 lm - the equivalent of 60 W, and the filament “pear” 7 W indicates 806 lm with the same equivalent! This is why I recommend not paying attention to the indicated power equivalent, but looking only at the luminous flux. The power equivalent can be approximately calculated by dividing the luminous flux by ten: 400 lm - 40 W, 600 lm - 60 W, 750 lm - 75 W, 1000 lm - 100 W.

It is also not worth comparing lamps in terms of power consumption - with the same power, they can produce different amounts of light (this depends on the technology and type of LEDs used).

Unfortunately, not all manufacturers honestly indicate lamp parameters on the packaging. This is clearly visible in the table: for OSRAM, Lexman, Philips, the actual parameters are often even better than those indicated, and Uniel (including under the separate brand “Bright Lamp”), Wolta, IEK, Elektrostandard indicate power, luminous flux and equivalent higher than actual.

It comes to the point that the parameters are sometimes inflated by a third: for example, on one of the “Bright Lamp” (Uniel) lamps the power is indicated as 12 W, the luminous flux is 1000 lm and the equivalent is 100 W. In fact, it consumes 9.3 watts, produces only 753 lumens and is as bright as a 75 watt incandescent bulb.

At the same time, the cheaper Lexman lamp, with a specified 11 W, 1055 lm and 75 W equivalent, actually consumes 10.8 W, produces a flux of as much as 1136 lm and shines like a 100-watt incandescent lamp.

Leroy Merlin sells only two Philips lamps from the economy series with a low CRI, which is listed on the website, but not indicated on the packaging of the lamps themselves. That being said, Philips has many good lamps that are sold in other stores.

For some reason, OSRAM bulb lamps are sold exclusively with warm light 2700 K and very cold light 6500 K. The latter are not at all suitable for residential premises.

I was unpleasantly surprised by the Uniel filament lamp. Not only did its actual power amount to 7.1 W instead of the promised 10 W, and the luminous flux was 762 lm instead of the promised 920 lm, it turned out to have a low color rendering index of 74 (on the box it says “more than 80”), and this is the first filament a lamp with a low CRI despite the fact that I have already tested several hundred of them.

The bottom line on E27 bulbs: you can safely buy Lexman (everything is fair, everything is good and a 5-year warranty), OSRAM with warm light (everything is fair, everything is good, but the warranty is 2 years and the price is higher). It is quite possible to buy lamps from the Bright Lamp brand, realizing that their actual power and brightness are lower than promised.

Ball lamps 45 mm with socketsE27 andE14

All lamps do not pulsate, which is good. All non-filament lamps are equipped with an IC driver and can operate at significantly reduced voltage.

Lexman and OSRAM are still at their best - actual parameters are in most cases better than stated, color rendering indices are above 80.

Uniel, Wolta and IEK, as I wrote above, indicate inflated parameters on the packaging.

The champion in lies is the Wolta “ball” with an E14 base. Indicated: 6 W, 560 lm, replacement 6 W, CRI Ra greater than 80. Measurement results: 4.7 W, 412 lm, replacement 45 W, CRI 73. The luminous flux is overestimated by 36%, and, which is very unpleasant, low CRI with the stated high level, which is impossible to check without special (and very expensive) instruments.

Previously, Wolta had two series of lamps - “Wolta” in beautiful orange boxes, with a CRI above 80, and “Wolta Simple” in white boxes, with a CRI above 70. Now both of them have a low CRI, while the inscription about Ra is higher 80 left on the boxes.

The most expensive lamp in the category is a matte filament “ball” from Osram with the ability to adjust brightness (dimming) for 298 rubles. The dimmable driver did not fit in the E14 socket, so the lamp is larger than others.

You can safely buy Lexman and OSRAM balls at Leroy.

• Lexman 5.5 W E27 for 65 rubles: 535/582 lm, 60 W replacement, CRI 85, five years warranty.
• Lexman 5.5 W E14 for 115 rubles: 485/520 lm, replacement 55 W, CRI 85, five years warranty.
• Lexman 8 W E27 for 120 rubles: 808/842 lm, replacement 80 W, CRI 85, five years warranty.
• Lexman 8 W E14 for 136/148 rubles: 805/862 lm, replacement 80 W, CRI 85, five years warranty.
• Lexman filament 4 W E27 for 135 rubles: 434/463 lm, replacement 50-55 W, CRI 82-83, five years warranty.
• Lexman filament 4 W E14 transparent for 135 rubles: 429/489 lm, replacement 50-55W, CRI 83, five years warranty.
• Lexman filament 4 W E14 matte for 142 RUR: 398/467 lm, replacement 45-50 W, CRI 81-82, five years warranty.

⇡ Candle lamps with socketsE27 andE14

The test results clearly show why some manufacturers overestimate the parameters given on the packaging. OSRAM and Lexman filament lamps list 4 W and 470 lm, while Uniel lists 6 W and 500 lm. An ordinary buyer at a similar price will, of course, choose lamps with higher power and higher luminous flux, but in reality they are the same.

There were three dimmable “candles” on sale: filament OSRAM for 298 rubles and super-bright Lexman for 286/265 rubles. Lexman spark plugs have a pulsation of 22-24%. This level of pulsation is not visible to the eye, but when shooting video with such light, the image will strobe.

Best buys in this category:

• Lexman 5 W E27 for 71/75 rubles: 477/485 lm, replacement 55 W, CRI 82-84.
• Lexman 5.5 W E14 for 80 rubles: 540/561 lm, replacement 55-60 W, CRI 85.
• OSRAM filament 4 W E14 for 113 rubles: 460 lm, replacement 50 W, CRI 81-83.
• Lexman filament matte 4 W E14 for 145 rubles: 436/482 lm, replacement 50-55 W, CRI 82-86.

Mirror lamps, spots, micro lamps

Everything is simple with mirror lamps R39, R50, R63 in Leroy - only Lexman is available, and you can safely take them. Please note that the equivalent of mirror lamps and regular lamps is very different. The fact is that mirror incandescent lamps produce much less light than the same bulb lamps, so 230 lm really corresponds to 40 W, and 800 lm to 90 W.

Spots with a GU10 base are only available from OSRAM and Lexman, and they are all good.

Spots with a GU5.3 base in Leroy are only available for 230 volts, although this standard was once developed for 12-volt lamps. Here are the same OSRAM and Lexman plus Elektrostandard brand lamps with inflated parameters on the packaging, low CRI and a higher price.

Most LED spots have a lighting angle of about 100 degrees, while halogen spots have a lighting angle of about 35 degrees. Because of this, such LED lamps “blind” (I have already talked about this problem). Leroy Merlin has only two LED spots with a GU10 base, which have a narrow lighting angle of 36 degrees. These are OSRAM PARATHOM 6.9 W, which are quite expensive - 295 rubles.

Everything is bad with the GX53 spots in Leroy: Uniel have a high level of pulsation, clearly visible to the eye, low color rendering indices and inflated parameters on the packaging. Alas, the situation is repeating itself, the packaging says “Ra is more than 80”, but in fact it is -72-75. Such lamps should not be purchased under any circumstances!

The only GX53 lamp without pulsation and with a color rendering index greater than 80 is the Bellight 4 W with neutral light 4000 K. It has only a year warranty and a low brightness of 422 lm (which is as stated).

With microlamps G9 and G4 the situation is even worse. Elektrosnandard lamps have 100% pulsation - they only belong in the trash container. On sale there are Lexman G4 1.6 W lamps for 173 rubles, G9 2.5 W for 115 rubles. and G9 3.3 W for 398 rubles, but I did not have the opportunity to test them. I really hope they don't ripple.

Best buys in this category:

• Lexman R50 7.5 W for 167 rubles: 798/809 lm, replacement 90 W, CRI 83-84.
• Lexman GU10 6 W for 87 rubles: 563/618 lm, replacement 60-65 W, CRI 83-84.
• Lexman GU5.3 5.5 W for 75/80 rubles: 559/609 lm, replacement 60-65 W, CRI 84-85.
• Lexman GU5.3 7.5 W for 120 rubles: 709/711 lm, replacement 70 W, CRI 84.

conclusions

I am glad that there were only seven very bad lamps in Leroy Merlin - a couple of years ago there were many more. And in general, there are fewer and fewer lamps with high pulsation on the market - great news!

Lexman lamps turned out to be the best in terms of price-quality ratio, and this is not surprising - Leroy Merlin can afford to set very interesting prices for them, because it is their own brand. In addition to honest compliance with the declared characteristics and a high color rendering index, a big plus of Lexman lamps is a five-year warranty. It is strange that the store itself does not promote its own brand of lamps and customers often choose more expensive and poor lamps, thinking that cheap cannot be good.

I hope that my testing of these one hundred and twenty lamps, which took more than a month, will provide a better understanding of how good lamps differ from bad ones, and will help make the right choice.

In the summer I launched a project to test LED lamps lamptest.ru. I planned to test 10-15 lamps per month, but it turned out completely differently. 557 lamps have already been tested (of which 17 are fluorescent, 59 are incandescent, and all others are LED). Such a large number of lamps were tested thanks to successful public fundraising (crowdfunding), which continues to this day.

Today I will tell you why I started this project, what will happen to it next, and I will ask you to answer questions, the answers to which will help determine how the project will develop.

When I first encountered household LED lamps, I realized that not all of them are good. I, like many, thought then that the light bulbs in Chinese online stores were the same as those sold in Russia, only cheaper. After several orders, I began to understand: something was wrong here. The Chinese light bulbs flickered unpleasantly, gave off a nasty greenish light and shone much dimmer than promised. Then, I did not yet know that the pulsation of light from LED lamps depends on the electronic driver board hidden in the lamp base; the quality of light is largely determined by the color rendering index (CRI), which for most lamps from Chinese online stores is very low, but with real power and brightness, Chinese sellers can lie two or three times.

I started looking for information about the real parameters of LED lamps, but there was very little of it on the Internet: in order to measure light parameters you need professional and very expensive equipment, which is only available in certified laboratories, and they do not have the right to share the results of their tests.

Fortunately, at the beginning of 2014, fate brought me together with a company that had a device for testing the parameters of Viso LightSpion lamps. They bought the device at a lighting exhibition in Singapore and, apparently, there is only one in Russia. We discussed with the owners of the device how great it would be to start testing all the lamps that are sold and publish these honest results. They offered to come to them once a month and test the light bulbs, which I started doing in February 2014. At first, all data was simply recorded in an Excel table. Then we started thinking that it would be great to make a website with convenient filters for viewing the results.

A wonderful programmer from Nizhny Novgorod, Sergei Andreev, responded to my cry for help and created a fast, beautiful and convenient website LampTest.ru, which was launched on June 24, 2015.

The device measured all parameters of the lamp except one - light pulsation. Fortunately, the developers of the domestic Lupine device provided our project with their device.

Most recently, Andrey Karasev joined the project team, who helps process the results and enter them into the database.

So, today 557 lamps have been tested. I wanted to make an anniversary post after the 500th light bulb, but it didn’t work out. :) I tested LED lamps from 56 brands, and at least 5 types of lamps from 30 brands were tested. These brands are: artpole, ASD, Camelion, Diall, Ecola, Gauss, IEK, IKEA, Jazzway, Kreonix, Lexman, Madix, Navigator, OSRAM, Philips, REV, Robiton, Smartbuy, Supra, Thomson, Uniel, Wolta, X- Flash, Space, Lisma, Nanolight, Online, Start, Economy, Era.

Unfortunately, it may happen that soon I will not be able to use the Viso LightSpion, so I am now trying to test as many lamps from as many brands as possible. I don’t want to guess what will happen when I lose access to the device, I hope there will be a way out.

I created project groups on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/lamptest.ru and VKontakte https://vk.com/lamptest. In groups, I will talk about all the news of the project - what I am testing, what changes are happening on the site, what interesting things were discovered, and many other interesting little things that go beyond the scope of large blog articles. Add yourself on the social network that is most convenient for you.

I tried to test mainly lamps with “warm” light 2700-3000K, since I think that such light is more suitable for the home. I think there is no point in testing low-power lamps. It seems to me that it makes sense to test ordinary pear lamps with an E27 base with an equivalent of at least 60 W, “candles” and “balls” with an equivalent of at least 40 W, and spotlights with an equivalent of at least 35 W.

Today I want to ask you what lamps you are interested in so that you can understand which lamps to buy for testing first.

What types of LED lamps are you personally interested in?

219 (26.2 % )

Spark plug E14

133 (15.9 % )

Spark plug E27

72 (8.6 % )

Ball 45 mm E14

76 (9.1 % )

Ball 45 mm E27

95 (11.4 % )

Soffit R39 E14

17 (2.0 % )

Soffit R50 E14

30 (3.6 % )

Soffit R63 E27

26 (3.1 % )

18 (2.2 % )

Soffit GU5.3 230V

34 (4.1 % )

Soffit GU5.3 12V

23 (2.8 % )

9 (1.1 % )

Microlamp G9

33 (3.9 % )

Microlamp G4 230V

18 (2.2 % )

Micro lamp G4 12V

33 (3.9 % )

Lamps with what wattage equivalent are you interested in?

Pears 40 W or less

40 (4.0 % )

Pears 60 W

116 (11.5 % )

Pears 75 W

148 (14.6 % )

Pears 95 W

135 (13.3 % )

Pears 100 W or more

163 (16.1 % )

In order to answer these questions and choose the ideal LED lamps in terms of price-quality ratio, I am starting a series of articles comparing LED lamps tested in the lamptest.ru project. To date, more than one and a half thousand lamp models have been tested, including lamps from all well-known brands that can be bought in Russia.

We will compare the results of testing sixty LED lamps designed to replace a conventional 60 W incandescent light bulb, tell you about the most important parameters of the lamps that you need to pay attention to, and give recommendations on which lamps are best to buy.

First, let's determine how much light such a light bulb gives. The parameter that determines the amount of light is called “luminous flux” and is measured in lumens (lm). The packaging of 60-watt light bulbs usually indicates a luminous flux of 710 lm. In Wikipedia and European standards you can find a value of 806 lm. In reality, incandescent lamps sold in stores provide less light and their brightness directly depends on the voltage in the network, which is often lower than the standard value of 230 volts.

We tested five 60-watt incandescent bulbs at 230 and 220 volts using the Viso Light Spion. The voltage was set with an accuracy of 0.1% using a Shtil stabilizer, a Suntek TDGC2-0.5 LATR and two Aneng AN8001 precision multimeters, calibrated using the high-precision Keithly 2000 Multimeter and GW Instek GPM-8212 instruments.

According to the measurement results, at a voltage of 230 volts the lamps produce an average of 650 lm, and at a voltage of 220 V - 540 lm.

By the way, previous measurements have shown that different types of incandescent lamps can differ greatly from each other, so based on this table you should not conclude that lamps from one brand are brighter than lamps from another.

Doctors and scientists recommend using lamps with “warm” light of 2700-3000 K at home, and the author agrees with their opinion. 40 models from twenty-seven brands took part in the comparison of “warm” lamps. The lamps in the table are sorted by measured luminous flux.

Of the models tested, 14 lamps that stated on the packaging that they replaced a 60-watt incandescent lamp or produced at least 540 lumens actually provided less light output. And Supra, Saffit and REV 7W lamps provide 1.5-1.8 times less light than promised and can only replace a 40-watt incandescent lamp. However, overestimation of the equivalent and luminous flux by the manufacturer is observed in many brands. This is clearly visible in the table.

Four lamps have unacceptably high pulsation.

The color rendering index of many cheap lamps is about 73. Such lamps can be used in auxiliary rooms (corridors, halls), but in living rooms, kitchens and bathrooms it is better to use lamps with CRI>80.

Not all lamps work correctly when using a switch with an indicator. For lamps that can be used with such switches, in the “off” column. the table contains the value "ok". The value "blink" means that the lamp flashes, and "hot" means that the lamp glows faintly when the switch is off.

LED lamps can use two types of drivers (electronic boards that provide power to the LEDs) - linear and pulsed. When using a linear driver, the brightness of the lamp depends on the mains voltage, and as the voltage decreases, the brightness decreases. Typically, when using a linear driver, the brightness drops by 10% at 205-215 volts. The switching driver stabilizes the supply voltage of the LEDs, and the brightness of the lamp does not change over a wide range of supply voltages. As a rule, lamps with a pulse driver can operate without changing brightness when the mains voltage drops to 160 volts. The driver type is indicated in the "type" column.

Of the tested lamps, we can confidently recommend eight for purchase.

1. IKEA Ledare 303.059.76 LED1466G9. This lamp is the most expensive of those that took part in the comparison, but it is worth it, primarily because of the high color rendering index of 92.5 (note that of all the LED lamps sold in Russia, only Ikea Ledare lamps have a color rendering index higher than 90). In addition, this lamp, the only one of all those that took part in the comparison, supports brightness adjustment (dimming). The lamp parameters exactly correspond to the declared ones. Light pulsation of 10% is completely unnoticeable.
2. "Nanosvet L160 LE-GLS-8/E27/827". An excellent light bulb with honest characteristics at a good price. There is no pulsation, the backlit switch works. The only drawback is only a one-year warranty.
3. X-Flash 44788 XF-E27-A60-P-8W-3000K-220V. Great light bulb with a five year warranty and a good price. The only complaint against the manufacturer is that the equivalent is indicated incorrectly: 650 lumens is not 75 W.
4. Geniled 01210 E27 A60 7W 2700K. Great light bulb at a good price. Complaints to the manufacturer - the equivalent and color temperature are indicated incorrectly.
5. Osram LED STAR CLASSIC A 60 6.8W/827 FR E27. Nice lamp. The only drawback is that it does not work with a switch that has an indicator.
6. artpole 004296. The manufacturer of this lamp greatly inflated the parameters on the packaging (equivalent to 100 W and 850 lm, but in reality - 60 W and 649 lm), but the lamp is good, and if you know about this “feature”, you can buy it. Doesn't work with a switch that has an indicator.
7. Polaroid 30411908 PL60-6273. With this lamp it’s the other way around: for some reason the manufacturer underestimated its characteristics! The packaging indicated 6 W and 550 lm, but in fact it turned out to be 7.9 W and 640 lm. Doesn't work with a switch that has an indicator.
8. IKEA RYET 503.220.22 LED1512G8. A good lamp, honest parameters, but a little expensive. Doesn't work with a switch that has an indicator.

Of course, these are not all good lamps

The first three lines of the table are lamps Diall (own brand of Castorama stores), Auchan (own brand of Auchan stores), Lexman (own brand of Leroy Merlin stores), with which European standards played a cruel joke, suggesting a luminous flux of 806 lm as equivalent to a 60-watt lamp. These lamps can be recommended for purchase, but as a replacement for 75-watt incandescent lamps, and not 60-watt ones.

The Wolta Simple 25Y60BL8E27-S lamp showed good results, but it was tested two years ago, and the author cannot recommend it, since now lamps under the same article number most likely have a color rendering index below 75.

The Feron LB-92 25457 lamp also showed good results, but almost the same Feron LB-91 lamp with higher power had a color rendering index below 75, which means that the manufacturer does not pay much attention to what LEDs are installed in the lamps and in the other things may turn out differently for the party.

The two Volpe lamps have high specifications on the packaging, but produce good light. We hesitate to recommend them, since other lamps of this brand have low color rendering indices.

The Philips lamp 871829175275200 has a cap of the same diameter as the body. Because of this, the lamp does not shine back at all, and when placed in a chandelier with the base up, the ceiling will remain dark. This lamp has a 22% ripple which is almost unnoticeable.

The “Era Economy LED smd A60-8w-827-E27 ECO” lamp also has a slightly noticeable pulsation of 22%.

The comparison included two Era Economy lamps with exactly the same name “smd A60-10W-827-E27 ECO”. One in a white box, the other in a red one. The one in the white box had a high CRI, but an unacceptably high ripple, and the one in the red box had no pulsation, but the CRI was low.

I would like to point out one more unpleasant thing. Brands Gauss, Smartbuy, “Era” overstate on the packaging not only the luminous flux, equivalent and power, but also the color rendering index, indicating a value of 80, although in fact it is lower than 73.

It's the same story with Lexman 8 and 10 W and Auchan lamps - they are too bright to replace 60-watt lamps and are suitable for replacing 75-watt lamps. Unacceptable pulsation was detected in Ecola LED D7LV82ELC and Era Economy LED smd A60-8w-840-E27 lamps. OSRAM and Philips lamps have a color temperature of 6500 K - this is too cold light and not at all suitable for residential areas.

If you are looking for lamps with neutral white light, the following four lamp models are recommended for purchase from those included in the comparison.

1. "Nanosvet L161 LE-GLS-8/E27/840". An excellent lamp - a twin of the warm L160. The only drawback is only a one-year warranty.
2. "Era LED smd A60-8w-842-E27". The lamp produces 100 lumens less light than Nanosvet, but it successfully replaces a 60-watt incandescent lamp. A good lamp, its only drawback is incorrect information about luminous flux, power and equivalent on the packaging.
3. Lexman 7-A60 E27/40 R. The lamp is specified as a 45 W equivalent, but it produces 557 lumens and can fully replace a 60-watt incandescent lamp. The warranty for this lamp is 5 years.
4. Robiton 676-399 LED A60-8W-4200K-E27. Nice lamp. The only drawback is that it cannot work correctly with a switch that has an indicator.

Unfortunately, only “cheaper” Gauss and Camelion lamps were included in the comparison and models from other well-known brands were not included. This is partly due to the fact that many manufacturers have focused on making higher-wattage lamps and are no longer offering pear-shaped lamps that replace incandescent lamps under 75 W. In the following reviews we will definitely talk about lamps from these brands.

Many of you know that Chinese sellers and online stores, such as Aliexpress, constantly deceive us, freely inflating technical specifications by 2-3 times. Let's find out how much domestic brands deceive. The most favorite method is to put a weak crystal in a standard LED housing 5630, 5730, 3014. Instead of the standard 0.5W, it turns out to be only 0.15W or 0.09W. Few people know about these machinations of the Chinese; most people think that they turn them on at a third or a quarter of power so that they work for a long time. Approximately 95% of all LED products based on these diodes in the Aliexpress store are made at 0.15W or 0.09W. These include corn lamps, LED strips, and lamps. These low-power ices are of the lowest quality, with poor spectrum and other abnormalities.

• 1. How are popular brands doing?
• 2. Testing 11 samples
• 3. ASD ball 5W
• 4. ASD A-60 7W
• 5. ASD A-60 11W, E14
• 6. Housekeeper ECO10WA60E2745
• 7. BBK MB74C, GU 5.3 (MR16)
• 8.BBK A703F
• 9. BBK M53F, GU 5.3 (MR16)
• 10. Osram Led Parathom Classic P25
• 11. Feron LB-70, E14
• 12. Corn for 42 LED SMD 5630
• 13. Corn 60 LED SMD 5730
• 14. Classic Philips 60W incandescent

How are popular brands doing?

Marketing from the Middle Kingdom has penetrated our market. Especially among budget diode products. I understand that you want an LED lamp for your home that costs 150 rubles to shine like one that costs 500 rubles, but this will never happen. The cheap ones have the worst LEDs, they also saved on the radiator, the quality of the plastic, and the driver. All this significantly reduces the service life of the lighting device. To increase sales and attractiveness of products in the budget sector, popular brands in the domestic market use consumer deception. Thus, they compete with each other; whoever lies the most, sells.

Testing 11 samples

We will test 11 household LED lamps for power, operating from 220V. All with different bases E27, E14, GU 5.3, and different price categories from cheap to exemplary Osram. I will test what was at hand; I didn’t specifically look for it.

Brands participating:

• Feron;
• Osram;
• Housekeeper;
• Chinese corn Noname;
• out of the Philips competition for 60W “internal combustion”.

Model	Stated power	Real power	Percentage difference
1, ASD 5W, E14	5	4,7	— 6%
2, ASD 7W, E27	7	6,4	— 9%
3, ASD 11W, E27	11	8,5	— 23%
4, Economy 10W, E27	10	9,4	— 6%
5, BBK M53F, Gu 5.3 (MR16)	5	5,5	+ 10%
6, BBK MB74C, Gu5.3 (MR16)	7	7,4	+ 6%
7, BBK A703F, E27	7	7,5	+ 7%
8, Osram P25, E27	3,5	3,6	+ 3%
9, Feron LB-70, E14	3,5	2,4	— 31%
10, Corn 60-5730, E27	—	8,5	%
11, Corn 42-5630, E27	—	4,6	%
12, Philips 60W, E27	60	60.03W	+0,05%

As you can see, ASD and Feron distinguished themselves, the power of which is lower than indicated by 23% and 31%. Accordingly, the brightness will be the same percentage lower. Even for one manufacturer, the percentage of deception can be different, for example, ASD, from 6% to 23%. Only BBK deceived us by 6-10%.

ASD ball 5W

Let's start with ASD, they don't bother with labeling, just the brand name and energy consumption. I tried to look for reviews on them, but it didn't work. The markings of the previous generation and the current one are the same. Even if I find a review, it’s unclear which one they’re writing about. A cunning move, blatant Chinese marketing. The main disadvantages are the high heating of the case and LEDs due to a poor heatsink and lack of holes. But the worst thing is the stinking plastic; when the radiator heats up to 95°, it becomes hot and begins to smell terribly.

This is what cheap plastic smells like, and the heat makes the smell unbearable. But I bought them to put them in the garage and on the landing. If you take diodes with a driver, you can upgrade fluorescent lamps.

ASD A-60 7W

..

ASD differs from others in that it has a glass bulb rather than a polycarbonate one. As usual, I began to remove the flask and it shattered into many small fragments. Although it looked like plastic.

ASD A-60 11W, E14

This model was very different from other ASDs; instead of the declared 11W, it turned out to be only 8.5W. Her LEDs heat up to 95 with the bulb removed, and even more with the bulb removed. They also have models in the same housing, but for 15W and 20W. So they are guaranteed to overheat the diodes there and they will also lie pretty hard about the power.

Housekeeper ECO10WA60E2745

I got a decent diode lamp for the home, optimal in price and quality, for 160 rubles. The aluminum plate with LEDs is poorly coated with thermal paste, so there is poor contact with the internal heatsink. After purchasing, you need to immediately sort it out and lubricate it with thermal paste.

BBK MB74C, GU 5.3 (MR16)

I was surprised by the BBK light bulbs, they were provided by the online store sestek.ru. Due to being very busy, I was unable to write a review on them after receiving the parcel. I don’t like the electronics of this company, but here it’s the other way around, everything is made with really high quality. Energy consumption is higher than stated, the radiators are large, made of aluminum, and heat dissipation is thought out. Judging by the design and components, they will have a long service life. Now I will recommend BBK, the best light bulbs among products from other Chinese companies. The entire range at affordable prices is available in the Sestek.ru store

Their price is lower or equal to such popular brands as Jazzway, Feron. But the quality and parameters are 2 times better, and they will last a couple of times longer. In addition, instead of conventional SMD LEDs, COB LEDs are used, the production of which is 2 times cheaper.

BBK A703F

The heat sink is done correctly, there are even holes near the base for driver ventilation.

BBK M53F, GU 5.3 (MR16)

Osram Led Parathom Classic P25

Osram was purchased on the advice of my colleague, the director of a large company that imports LED lamps, light bulbs, and strips. I needed a light source to calibrate the sphere to measure the light output. A colleague recommended buying Osram; one of the production managers is a fan of precision, so the luminous flux of Osram LEDs has an error of no more than 3%, and maybe less.

To write a review I wanted to take it apart. Almost removed the glass flask, there was very little left and I pressed a little extra. The glass seems to explode and scatter into small fragments in all directions.

Feron LB-70, E14

The Feron LED will be the “leader” of this test. Consumption was 31% lower than what the manufacturer promised. Accordingly, the brightness will be much lower.

Let's calculate the luminous flux:

1. 300 Lumens and 3.5W are stated, 6 LED SMD 5630 are installed;
2. the actual measured power was 2.4W;
3. from the real 2.4W we subtract 1W for the driver (power supply). 1.4W remains for LEDs;
4. efficiency SMD 5630 80Lm/W;
5. 1.4W multiplied by 80, we get the real brightness of 112Lm;
6. 300-112=188Lm the brightness is too high;
7. Divide 188 by 112, we get that the brightness is overestimated by 168%.

How Feron managed to deceive so much with such a weak light bulb is simply incredible. 99% of buyers do not have measuring instruments and will never know that they were deceived.

Corn for 42 LED SMD 5630

LED corn lights were purchased 4 years ago. I spent a lot of time choosing, I even had to communicate with Chinese sellers, who told me in detail about Chinese technologies and which corn is good. They said that on the SMD 5630 there is no 0.5W, but only 0.15W. They really turned out to be of decent quality, one has already worked for 25,000 hours and has lost 30% of the luminous flux, that is, it has exhausted its service life.

Corn 60 LED SMD 5730

Purchased from Aliexpress, considered the best. Now they sell new ones, of simply disgusting quality, that drop like flies. I recommend buying only these, if other models have a lower price, don’t be fooled by it, it’s a waste of money.

In the product parameters, the brightness is indicated, as if there were branded ones at 0.5W. For a 60-piece SMD 5630 light bulb, which has about 9 Watts and a brightness of 800 Lumens, the Chinese writes at 15W and a luminous flux of 1400 Lumens.

That’s why I don’t buy lamps in China anymore and I don’t recommend them to you; in the end, they cost more than an inexpensive lamp from a local store. The same applies to LED strips. On branded SMD 5050 (15 lm each) it turns out to be more powerful and cheaper than on a 12 lm SMD 5730 from China.

Classic Philips 60W incandescent

To complete the experiment, we will test a regular Philips “internal combustion” at 60W with an E14 base and a matte flask. I don’t expect any surprises from it, but I need to try it on. We get an ideal result of 0.05%. Philips makes everything accurately and efficiently, not only LED products, even with incandescent filaments.

Reviews of single lamps are good for everyone, except for the ability to understand which of the lamps in neighboring reviews shines brighter and whether it gives the desired color temperature. Below the cut is a comparison of three different LED lamps in an equal battle.

So, the participants of today's comparison test:

1. Reference sample: Osram Duluxstar Mini Twist fluorescent lamp 24 watt warm spectrum. The actual measured power consumption is 20 watts. The lamp is 2 years old. The photo is on the far right. The price is about 150 rubles.

2. Lamp from the title of the review with. LED warm spectrum type “corn”. Claimed power consumption is 7 watts, actual power consumption is 5.9 watts. Price 6.1$. In the photo, second from the left. By the way, surprisingly durable construction. It came by mail (regular, not EMS) alone, in a small envelope, barely wrapped in one layer of half-shredded bubble wrap. When the postal workers unceremoniously threw the envelope onto the table, a distinct plastic knock was heard. Therefore, when I took the lamp, I was 80% sure that it was already dead. But surprisingly this turned out not to be the case.

3. Lamp with . Cold spectrum LED lamp of the “corn” type. Stated 4 watts, measured 4.6 watts. Price 13.7$. In the photo, second from the right.

4. Lamp with . Half corn LED lamp with 180 degree beam direction. The spectrum is cold. Stated 6 watts, measured 6.5. Price 12.7$. In the photo is the one on the far left. The only lamp from the review on SMD diodes. The plastic lamp base is divided into 2 parts. The part that is adjacent to the metal base is rigidly connected to the metal base. The part that is adjacent to the lamp is rigidly connected to the lamp. And they rotate relative to each other. Those. The twisted lamp can be directed in any way you like. However, a problem may arise in unscrewing the lamp if it is screwed into a lamp where there is no direct access to the static part of the base.

The testing methodology is quite simple. To determine the correct color temperature, we set the white balance to the “sunny” position, the deviation from which into yellowness and blueness is precisely perceived by the human eye. To determine the comparative brightness in a joint photo, we measure the exposure using the brightest lamp with additional manual exposure compensation of -1/3. Many even comparative reviews turn out to be useless due to the fact that their authors set the exposure haphazardly, as a result of which the lamps photographed are often overexposed. And the excess of the light flux over the dynamic range of the camera matrix by 5% and 5 times gives the same white color in the picture, which does not allow correct comparison of different lamps, except by indirect evidence of the size of the surrounding light spots.

First comparison photo.
2 LED lamps (No. 2 at 9 o'clock and No. 3 at 1 o'clock) with a reference fluorescent lamp (at 5 o'clock). The photo clearly shows that the fluorescent lamp shines at least 2 times more powerful than diode lamps. Cold diode lamp No. 3 shines noticeably brighter than warm diode lamp No. 2. These differences are much more visible to the eye than in the photo. A cold diode lamp is slightly blinding, but a warm one can be viewed without discomfort. Its spectrum is quite pleasant and very similar to the spectrum of a warm fluorescent lamp.

Second comparison photo.
All 3 LED lamps. The arrangement is similar to the 1st photo, only instead of a fluorescent lamp there is lamp No. 4. The 4th lamp has more efficient SMD diodes and produces a more directional light output. Looking directly at her at close range is already very unpleasant. A clear champion in brightness, although this is achieved incl. due to directionality.

Another useful thing that can be measured with a camera is the flickering of lamps, which gives an unpleasant strobe effect for the eye. Lamps No. 2 and No. 3 have some pulsation noticeable in the test image. But even in the picture it is clear that the pulsation is not clearly expressed. The stroboscopic effect is not noticeable to the eye. Lamp No. 4 gives a perfectly straight line without a pulse (some jagged edges are visible in the published photo, but these are compression artifacts; they are not present in the original photo).

№2

№3

№4

The fluorescent lamp is still the leader in brightness per unit of lamp cost. If the number of lamps in a chandelier is limited to a small amount (for example, three, as in mine) and you need bright light without too expensive lamps, a fluorescent lamp is the only right choice today (LED lamps of similar brightness cost 30 bucks apiece).

Warm LED lamp No. 2 produces a spectrum that is pleasant to the eye, similar to the spectrum of a high-quality fluorescent lamp. The cheapest lamp in the review, 2 times cheaper than LED competitors. However, it has the weakest light output (although for the same price you can install 2 times more lamps, which will clearly be more efficient). Also the most energy inefficient among LEDs. Apparently just because of the warm spectrum. An excellent option for a living space if the chandelier allows you to install quite a lot of such lamps.

Cold omnidirectional lamp No. 3 consumes the least electricity, while being the most expensive (probably mainly due to the greed of Dilextream). the total luminous flux is comparable to the brightest diode lamp No. 4, but distributed in all directions. A fairly universal solution for lighting non-residential premises and indoor street lamps. Not suitable for residential premises due to the unpleasant cold spectrum (although this is not for everyone).

Cold directional lamp No. 4 is the brightest of all diode lamps compared. The most technologically advanced SMD diodes. Suitable for lamps adjacent to the wall or ceiling in non-residential premises. Unpleasant color for residential use.

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