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For a beginner radio amateur, where is the best place to start? Radio amateur kits for self-assembly. What's inside.

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Amateur radio is a very exciting hobby...
It’s always interesting to assemble some useful product with your own hands, and if it also starts working the first time, it generally causes great delight.

But those who are just beginning their journey into the interesting world of electronics from the very first steps may encounter a number of difficulties: imagine this picture: a very interesting circuit has been found - it seems simple, and there are few details, but a whole series of questions immediately arises - and where can I get these same details? What to assemble on (PCB or surface-mounted)? If it’s a printed circuit board, then again, where can I get the materials for manufacturing (textolite, what to draw, what to etch)?... Well, and, as a result, the desire is slowly beginning to fade away...

Therefore, I would like to give a small recommendation specifically for beginner radio amateurs: The easiest way make your first electronic product This is to use a ready-made set.
Moreover, it is quite possible that the cost of such a set will cost you even a little less than if you suddenly decide to purchase all the parts and materials individually

a small example: you wanted, for example, to assemble a signal level indicator according to this diagram:

Everything seems simple in appearance: a couple of microcircuits, a few LEDs, and so on - little things: resistors and capacitors.
But you still need to buy this somewhere else... Yes, okay, just buy radio elements - you also need to make a printed circuit board for them...

And by purchasing a ready-made kit, you receive a complete set of radio components, a ready-made printed circuit board in this form:

and the finished product will have a completely aesthetic appearance, like this:

Buy ready kits for beginner radio amateurs You can visit our partner’s website using this link.

And remember: by purchasing these sets, you, among other things, help our site develop, and therefore we will continue to provide assistance to radio amateurs by filling the site with new schemes and giving tips on the forum

If you have a desire to learn more about these sets, then we have specially created a section


According to tradition, we first look at what form it is sent in. An ordinary “bumpy” package. This is the bag inside.

Here's what should have been inside.


And this is what I saw when I opened the purse.


I put everything on the “shelves”. But as in the picture, the store is not very convenient. Lay it out in my own way.


If you do it as on the store page, then when you close your bag, a can of flux ends up on the destin pump. You can close it, but it will stick out a lot.
I checked the package. Everything is in place.
Package Included:
1. * Tool bag.
2. * Soldering iron 60W.
3. *Destin pump.
4. * Side cutters.
5. * 2 tweezers.
6. * Soldering iron stand with sponge.
7. * Reel of wire.
8. * Solder in a tube.
9. * 5 replaceable tips.
10. * Solder paste.

Why the set is called 14 in 1, I don’t know. That's why they are Chinese.
I'm starting to analyze. In order not to be tedious, I will consider the most basic things.
I'll start with the handbag.

The handbag is like a handbag, ordinary leatherette, trimmed with orange ribbon.


Since this is a soldering kit, the most basic thing in the kit is the soldering iron. 60 W soldering iron with continuously adjustable temperature. European plug.


The cable is ordinary, about one and a half meters long. No grounding.
There are soft elastic bands at the grip and cable entry points.


The power/temperature control is located at the bottom of the handle. When soldering, it is impossible to accidentally turn the knob.


First I took it apart to look at the heating element.


This is a soldering iron with a ceramic heating element.


Nichrome heaters look a little different; their top joint is covered with cement. Ceramic ones usually have a step (although they have learned to fake steps) and a groove (they haven’t faked them yet).
Compatibility with hack stings is absolute.
Brief information on ceramic heaters. Taken from the Internet.

The tubular ceramic heater is manufactured by printing fine tungsten powder onto a ceramic substrate, which is wrapped around an aluminum oxide ceramic rod and sintered in a hydrogen furnace flame at t=1500 °C, forming a strong, durable, heat-resistant element with a high insulation resistance of more than 100 MOhm, and can reach temperatures up to 700 °C.
The electrical resistance of this heater increases with increasing temperature (PTC - Positive Temperature Coefficient).
1. It was this property that I observed when the power of the soldering iron dropped as it warmed up.
2. The characteristic technological groove on the heater is also present.
You can now study the sting.
First I checked it with a magnet. Only the nose part is magnetic.
I washed it down to see what it was made of.

Inside is a steel glass, outside is a thick layer of copper. External coverage is minimal.
I measured the depth of the internal cavity of the tip and the length of the protruding part of the heating element. The protruding part is 0.1 mm smaller. This is good for the heating element. There is little chance that you will curl it when replacing the tip, and it will not deteriorate when heated.


The outer diameter of the heating element is 3.8-3.9 mm.


The internal diameter of the tip showed 4.2 mm. A fairly large gap, although not critical.


The heating element moves in freely.
External diameter 6.4 mm.

I'll look into it further. There are no difficulties. Just first you need to wrap the soft elastic band.


To remove the board, you need to remove the adjusting pin.

The control scheme is primitively simple. You can take a closer look (view from both sides).


The flux has not been washed off.
The heating element is designed for 220 V. Unfortunately, the power was not indicated.


Let's move on to testing. Everything is back to its original state. The stand will also come in handy.


I forgot to put the rubber band back in place. But this can be fixed.
I worked with a soldering iron for an hour in all temperature modes.


The sting came off well.


After an hour of work and acceleration to a temperature of 450˚C, traces of tarnish appeared on the tip.
I measured the power. When you turn on a cold (at the maximum temperature set to 450˚C) soldering iron, the power is maximum (85 W). Then it drops sharply (according to the exponential law :))).
So sharp that I only managed to capture it at this level.


It is very difficult to turn on the soldering iron and take photographs at the same time.
Heats up very quickly.
As it warms up, power consumption decreases. The most likely reason is an increase in the resistance of the heating element, which confirms the manufacturing method of the heating element (ceramic heating element).
With warming up (no more than 30 seconds), the power stabilizes (at 450˚C) at a level of just over 30 W.


When the temperature is set to 300-350˚C, the power is reduced to just over 20 W.


In addition to the soldering iron, the bag contains spare tips.

Packed in a tight ziplock bag. You can change and put it back without fear of losing it.

They are absolutely identical to the one installed in the soldering iron.
Compatible with the Hack standard.


Another item that is difficult to do without is a desoldering pump.

The grip area is made of soft porous rubber. Most likely, this is the only difference from their counterparts.
I don’t know how reliable it will prove to be over time, but based on my first impression, I liked it.
Vacuum creates good. The spring is “strong”, TWO rubber seals on the piston help it.


A tube with solder is a separate issue. The blue lid fits in with a slight interference fit. As a result, it simply fell off during transportation (see at the beginning of the review).


Flux 80 g. When soldering, it smells like paraffin.


I liked the quality of the tweezers. Metal is not plasticine. I bent the leg of a two-watt resistor and a KD226 diode.


Side cutters are ordinary. You won't be able to bite nails with them. But they cope with their tasks.


I ate a twist of resistors (2 W).


The oxide/oil film has been removed.
And a small coil of 0.1 mm copper wire.

Here is such a set. I think I’ve outlined everything basically.
If you have any questions, please ask.
Good luck!
Coupon: FH474
The rest is on video.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I'm planning to buy +20 Add to favorites I liked the review +34 +61

19.08.16

8126 4.33

What can you please a growing radio amateur with, of course, a new electronic toy. And if the child already has a desire to do something himself, and not just do it, but solder it, connect it, and even make it work. Well, then this is what you need.

Thanks to the campaign of the Dadget company and the Master Kit trademark, we became the owners of such a set, for which we thank them very much!

Looking ahead, I’ll say that my eight-year-old son really liked the set, who had been asking to learn how to solder for quite some time and, in addition, had been eyeing his dad’s multimeter for a long time.

But let's talk about everything in order.

Package

The young electronics engineer's kit is a colorful cardboard box measuring 308 x 253 x 38 mm.

The first thing that attracts attention on the front side of the box is 2 boards: a flasher - “Chameleon” and a “Voltage Level Indicator”. These are two separate radio construction kits that are included in the set as teaching aids on which your child can learn how to assemble and solder radio-electronic components. In my opinion, it's not too bad for a start.

The second side of the box reveals information about the rest of the contents of the set, but not completely, leaving room for the child’s imagination and a pleasant surprise after he looks inside.

What's inside?

In small slots there are:

  • a multimeter is not bad for an entry-level, the DT 830B model has long been popular and not only among beginner radio amateurs;
  • wire cutters - with their help, a young radio amateur will be able to bite off the leads of components that are too long; the quality of the cutters is pleasantly surprising;
  • a soldering iron with solder is the second radio amateur tool after a multimeter, also of very good quality and even with grounding;
  • 2 starter sets “Chameleon” and “Voltage Level Indicator”, which have already been mentioned;
  • 2 wonderful brochures that will help your child learn to use a multimeter, understand the intricacies of installation and soldering, and also assemble their first electronic devices;
  • magnet from Master Kit as a gift. It's a small thing, but nice.

Checking the soldering iron

When you turn it on for the first time, the soldering iron heats up with a characteristic smell, but not much. It is enough that the room is ventilated so as not to feel discomfort. The soldering iron tip included in the kit is ready for use and does not require pre-tinning. I was a little disappointed by the lack of a soldering iron stand in the set. You need to purchase it or make it yourself so that you can safely install the soldering iron without fear of accidentally melting something or, worse, starting a fire.

There are an endless variety of coasters, the choice is yours. We made something like this:

Well, then, we install the tip, put the soldering iron on the stand, turn it on and wait until it heats up, we control the degree of heating using the “rosin method” - i.e. periodically touch a piece of rosin with the tip and see if the rosin melts, it means the soldering iron is heating up. The operating temperature of the soldering iron is about 270 - 310 degrees, this is the optimal temperature for soldering. Our soldering iron has a temperature regulator that allows you to set the tip temperature in the range from 100 to 400 degrees. We set the operating temperature “by eye”. If the rosin evaporates intensely when touched by the tip, the soldering iron has become hot. We touch the solder with the tip and make sure that the heating temperature is sufficient to melt it. You can start soldering.

In addition to the soldering iron, the kit would also benefit from a simple stand and a special sponge for the soldering iron. I hope that our wish will be heard by the manufacturer of the “Young Electronics Engineer Kit”.

Checking the multimeter

The set, as mentioned, includes the very famous DT 830B multimeter. You can find quite a lot of reviews on it on the Internet, but despite this, one of the brochures includes instructions for beginners on working with a multimeter. It’s nice that the multimeter comes with a Krona battery already installed; there is no need to purchase it separately.

After studying the instructions, we measured the voltage of the batteries in our home watches and toys, then checked the polarity of the LEDs and the resistance of the resistors from the Chameleon set. The multimeter passed the test for 5 plus. Its readings in these measurements did not differ from those of a professional multimeter. As others have said, this is a very good entry-level multimeter.

Chameleon set

After all the checks and preparations, my son could hardly wait to start assembling this radio set. Well, naturally, the first thing he wanted to solder was the “Chameleon” kit. Below are some photos of the work in progress.

The boy really liked the gift. He was simply delighted! I wanted to finish everything quickly and see how the “flashing light” would work.

This radio set, like the previous one, was assembled in one go.

All that remains is to figure out where to adapt the finished voltage indicator. There is an idea to install it on a car to indicate the status of the battery and control the operation of the generator.

This concludes our review. We hope you find it useful.

In my opinion, this is a great gift for a boy who is interested in electronics! With his help, in the future he will be able to assemble more than one radio constructor, and over time, quite possibly, he will invent something on his own.

The “Radio Amateur TV” channel, as part of the “Kits from China for amateur radio” section, reviewed 5 “Do it yourself” kits. Suitable for self-assembly for beginners and experienced electronics enthusiasts.

The first set is the simplest audio amplifier on the LM386 chip. You can buy it in this Chinese store for less than one and a half dollars. And it includes everything you need for work: a printed circuit board, resistors, capacitors, a variable resistor, a gain control knob, connectors. And, of course, a 3.5 mm jack to connect headphones and speakers and hear amplified sound. A good solution if you are assembling a radio receiver.

Iridescent light

The next set is a simple circuit for beginner radio amateurs. "Iridescent light from LEDs." It only costs half a buck. It contains a breadboard, LEDs, resistors, two microcircuits that set the operating mode, and a variable resistor with which you can regulate the speed of light flow. Sold here.
A good practical example if you are starting to learn the basics of digital electronics.

Frequency generator set

Frequency generator set

It will not only be interesting to assemble. It will still be a quite useful device in our business. Capable of generating frequencies from 0 to 200 kHz. The output is sinusoidal signals, rectangular, sawtooth, arbitrary shape, which you specify.
This device is powered by a voltage of 15 V, and the output voltage range is from 0 to 10 V. In general, it is a useful thing. And putting it together without much difficulty.

Adjustable power supply


You can assemble it in the case. Indication of output voltage using seven-segment indicators. Moreover, the voltage ranges from 1.2 V to 37.5 V.
There are electrical circuit and wiring diagrams. Everything you need for assembly is included. It is powered from an outlet. And the plug with wire is included in the package.

Sound module

Sound recording and playback module for just a couple of bucks.
It is easy to assemble. What you can do with it is record a sound lasting 10 seconds and play it back using a speaker.

Such a device is suitable, for example, for an audio postcard with a recording of congratulations or music. Or come up with something for jokes and various practical jokes.
The circuit works like this: press and hold the record button. The red LED will light up and you will be recording audio for 10 seconds. After recording, click the play button and the recording will play.
Subscribe to the “Radio Amateur TV” channel.

Aliexpress literally blew up the Russian market with cheap Chinese goods. And, of course, for us electronics engineers, this is a huge plus. Cheap radio components, devices, consumables - Ali has it all. In this article you can even read what I recently purchased from this Chinese online store. But today we’ll talk about something completely different.

I think it all started when the Russian company Master Kit began producing kits for beginner radio amateurs. You were given a ready-made printed circuit board and a set of corresponding radio elements in a bag in order to assemble a simple device according to the circuit diagram. Novice electronics engineers with straight handles and a soldering iron with flux could easily assemble the device. In the end, both sides won. Master Keith did not have to solder radio elements and look for a housing for an electronic trinket, and a novice electronics engineer could practice soldering and assemble a fully functioning device for a minimum price. But knowing our Russian business, you can guess that our prices, as usual, are inflated by two or even three times the original cost of the goods. To be honest, I wouldn't say that Master Whale's kits are cheap.

But I wonder if the same sets are available in China? I opened the site, entered the phrase “electronic diy” into Ali’s search, which translates to “electronic craft”, and the site gave me very interesting results. I decided to try it. I ordered a kit for making a watch. The goods arrived in just a month.

The set included a scarf with detailed drawings on it showing where to solder what; stitched AVR microcontroller with a crib, three two-digit seven-segment indicators, a circuit diagram for the device, and of course, a bunch of different radio elements:

After sitting with a soldering iron one evening, slowly, I soldered this miracle:


I trimmed the corners. Below you will find out why.

I'm still a solder)


To prevent the watch from being reset when the power is turned off, I bought a coin-cell battery for it, since it was not included in the kit:


To power the watch itself, I first bought a 9-volt Krona battery for it, but the watch consumed it in 3 days). I took an old mobile charger:


The power supply range for the watch is from 6 to 12 Volts. What do we have here? 6 Volts, just what you need:



He inserted the wire, tying a knot so that it would not be torn from the board, and threaded it through the case.

Since the scarf didn’t fit a little, I had to cut it off). But then it fit very tightly and neatly:


Now I always have the exact time down to the second on my desktop;-) The time is adjusted using the S1 button.


There should have been LEDs between the two-digit seven-segment switches, but I removed them because they just gave a dull light, which was annoying. Now you can even wake up in the middle of the night, check the time on your watch, and then fall back to sleep with a clear conscience, because it’s too early to get up) The indicators shine beautifully! Time is ticking right.

Why am I even describing this watch that I didn’t even design? So, let's remember how much this watch would cost me if I made it entirely myself from scratch:

1) Buy foil textolite and all radio elements

2) Run a trace on your computer

3) Do

4) Write a program for the microcontroller

5) Flash it

6) Assemble the device.

Okay, I won’t count the time spent on labor anymore. Let's do the math. At the time of writing:

– microcontroller AT89C2051 – 89 rubles in Chip Deep

– two-digit indicators 3 pcs. – for Ali 1 pc. = 50 rubles, which means 150 rubles.

– small things (resistors, transistors, diodes, button, terminal, quartz) well, I think for everything it’s still 100 rubles.

– textolite, iron chloride, well, let’s assume you have them. Let's add another 50 rubles on top.

Total: 89+150+100+50=389 rub. Almost 400 rubles, and this takes into account the cheapest radio elements and consumables.

And my set cost... (there should be drumming, fanfare, dancing naked chicks) only 250 rubles! This is back when a buck cost 60 rubles. Now this watch costs 190 rubles (!)

- Yes, well, what is it? Nowadays you can even buy a simple Chinese electronic watch for a hundred dollars in a case and with a normal LCD monochrome display, you say. Yes I agree. But how much fun and practice you will experience if you collect this set ;-)

Ali actually has various sets, ranging from simple blinkers to entire instruments. You can even assemble a full-fledged multimeter. Some guys took the kits and were quite pleased. Everything worked fine. The quality of the scarf is, of course, so-so. When I connected the device for the first time, the first two indicators started working with problems. As it turned out, the coin accidentally overheated and it moved away, breaking the path.