The process of bricklaying is complex and responsible: both the functional and aesthetic properties of the final structure depend on the quality of the work. Craftsmen with many years of experience can boast of the ability to quickly and easily measure seams and install stone blocks evenly, without special tools. Ordinary people who erect, for example, a fence near a house, often use their own strength. To help them, there are a number of tools and devices for bricklaying that can facilitate the process of erecting elements and structures.

Devices for work

Ceramic or sand-lime brick is a classic construction element. Nowadays, either some kind of functional layer of the structure is laid out with it, or cladding is used, since a wall made only of it is a troublesome, labor-intensive task and requires a large thickness in order to retain heat in the room. However, whatever the element being constructed, the following bricklaying tool is required to create it:

• Trowel (popularly known as a trowel). It is a spatula for spreading and leveling the solution.
• The ladle is used for large volumes of masonry, when you need to lay a lot of mixture.
• Joining is a tool for designing finished seams on the outside of the wall. May have different sizes and designs.
• A pick (hammer) is needed if something needs to be corrected: to level the position of a brick or to chip off something unnecessary.
• Ordering is a professional tool that greatly facilitates the work: it allows you to accurately measure the evenness of the masonry, the position of the bricks relative to each other, form an ornament, mark an opening, and pull the cord.

Control intermediaries

The main set helps to directly stack bricks on top of each other and decorate the wall. In order for the masonry to be smooth, you cannot do without control tools and devices:

• A bubble level is indispensable when leveling rows horizontally.
• The plumb line plays the role of controlling the evenness of the vertical plane and angles of the tool.
• The rule is an even, wide lath for leveling and controlling the rows of bricks.
• The cord is pulled to orient the rows, their height and evenness.
• A square is needed when laying wall intersections.

In their work, craftsmen use the “Bricklayer” set. The device for laying bricks can be either ordinary or unfamiliar to ordinary people, but it greatly simplifies the work. The set can be purchased in specialized stores. Experienced masons have a personal kit, which includes all the items necessary for a particular master.

Non-standard inventions

In addition to the basic set, there is a special tool for bricklaying, designed to facilitate the work of both an experienced craftsman and an ordinary person. With its help, you can align the rows and adjust the thickness of the seam when laying the mortar. Each device for bricklaying is a certain simple design with parameters suitable for performing a given operation (height, width, thickness of the working part).

Ready-made non-standard tool

An interesting device for quick bricklaying has the form of a tray without a bottom with longitudinal stops at the base.

The width of the device is adjustable, which allows it to be used for different types of dressings. It is designed to uniformly lay the mortar along the entire length and width of the masonry. This tool was invented by the American company Bricky, where the serial production of original kits was also established. Then cheaper analogues appeared in many countries around the world. The material of the device is plastic. Unfortunately, the sand included in the masonry mortar can wear out the surface of the tray, which entails the need for its periodic replacement. But the craftsmen have come up with a way out of this situation: the scratched surface is covered with different compounds (enamels, varnishes) to extend the service life of the instrument.

Vertical seams between bricks or blocks also need careful attention, but laying the mortar evenly and in the right quantity is not so easy. There is a similar device from the same manufacturer for this purpose. It limits the area of ​​application of the composition and the thickness of the future seam.

How to use

The bricklaying tool is very easy to use:

1. Adjust the width of the device to the required one.
2. Place it in the direction of travel.
3. Fill the form with masonry mortar according to the level of the slats.
4. Remove excess with a trowel.
5. Move the device to the required distance and repeat the operation.

You should not lay a lot of mortar at once: you need to have time to lay the bricks before the mixture sets. Moving the tray is very convenient: stops at the base fix its position relative to the plane of the wall, so you don’t have to constantly adjust it.

Since the masonry device is subject to active wear, you can make a similar tool from scrap materials. To do this, take laminated plywood 10 mm thick or a corner profile, make 2 identical sections for the sides and 1 for the transverse fixation of the width you need. Fasten the parts together and use the finished tool according to the same principle. For convenience, fixing edges made from metal corners can be attached to the base of the slats.

What is the price

You can buy a device for bricklaying in different configurations: the price for the original set is about 3,400 rubles.

What does it include:

• Tray for horizontal seams.
• 2 vertical strips for brick and block masonry.
• Trowel.
• Set of fasteners.
• Disc with detailed instructions.

Similar sets cost differently, depending on the configuration: a set of horizontal and 2 vertical devices can be purchased for 600 rubles. (Kovrov). Separate parts are sold on various resources: a tray can be bought for about 1000 rubles.

Homemade device

Not everyone can afford to buy a set that can make work easier. And there is no need for this if you want to build a small stone structure or build a house yourself. It is much easier, cheaper and faster to make a device for laying bricks with your own hands. Craftsmen came up with such a tool: they knock together 2 slats perpendicular to each other - the main one corresponds to the thickness of the future seam, the auxiliary one is attached to the middle or edge of the main plane. In this way, you can make 1 or 2 devices that are installed on one or both sides of the masonry.

The brick laying lath is easy to use: it is used for both horizontal and joint jointing. The principle of operation is similar to the American model: they install along the masonry, lay the mortar, remove the excess and install blocks or bricks.

Today we will look at both the standard arsenal of a mason and special tools and devices. We will talk about ways to increase the efficiency of your work, the quality of brickwork and ease of work, including using various improvised means.

Bricklayer's Basic Set

The skill of bricklaying, no matter how much you want, cannot be successfully developed without basic equipment. The mason is in charge of the entire process, starting with the preparation of the mortar, so even a basic set of tools cannot be called modest. Let's sort it out in order.

1. To mix the solution you will need a container of at least 40-50 liters and a shovel. The volume of one batch is determined by the production rate and the lifetime of the solution. On average, about 20-30 liters per hour are consumed for laying bricks; cooking can take 2-2.5 hours of work.

2. To carry the solution, you need a bucket of 12-14 liters, and in case of delivery to the upper floors without lifting devices - two smaller ones, 9-10 liters.

3. Application of the solution is carried out using a trowel (trowel). There are several forms of sole; you should choose based on your own preferences for ease of working with a certain type of masonry and format of stone. The standard trowel shape for brickwork is a trapezoid.

4. To make additional elements you will need a hammer-pick. The flat, pointed part will allow you to trim the edge of the stone with higher precision than strikers of other shapes.

5. A rubber mallet is ideal for setting and adjusting stones.

Measuring tools

It is impossible to maintain the plane of the walls, the angles and the accuracy of the box being built without tools for measurements and markings. There is also a very obvious gradation here: a base and a special level. Let's start with the basics:

1. A plumb line is something without which no mason will start work. You can use any heavy objects, but a cone weight is the best option. It does not oscillate the thread when unwinding, has a clear center and allows you to measure verticality with an accuracy of 1 mm.

2. Roulette, or even better - two. One automatic for 3 meters for marking extensions and measuring openings, as well as one tape for 30 meters with fiberglass cloth.

3. A mooring cord, also known as a nylon (or other slightly stretchy) thread with a length of 100 m. A pair of pins are attached to the cord, which are easily stuck into the fresh seam solution.

3. Pencils: dark for sand-lime brick, chalk for clay. Pencils should not be stationery, but construction pencils, that is, oval in shape.

4. Water tubular level - with its help, the points of attachment of the mooring are displayed.

5. Square for drawing right angles, the optimal length of the arms is at least twice the length of the brick used, that is, from 50 cm.

Well, special marking and measuring tools:

1. Laser axis builder. For laying brick boundary walls, it is recommended to use a rotary level with a “shooting” range of 30 m.

2. Laser roulette. Significantly reduces the time spent on checking the geometry and dimensions of the masonry.

3. An accurate spirit (slat) level - needed for checking local sections of the wall, laying corners and correcting stones laid without a mooring.

4. A long rule will ensure that the front surface of the masonry is maintained flat.

Devices for working with the solution

If you have to mix and deliver the solution yourself, this can take from a third to half of your working time. Special equipment and devices that speed up this process will not be superfluous.

First of all, a concrete mixer. Even if it’s the simplest and smallest in volume, it definitely should be there. This equipment is not just a way to completely automate the process of mixing a solution. In a concrete mixer, the mixture can be stored longer before use, and a new portion can be mixed without even using up the previous one. As a result, quite a lot of time is freed up directly for laying.

The second point is the means of delivery. If the masonry is being done on the second floor or far from the place where the mixture is prepared, you won’t be able to carry much with two buckets. In such situations, it is better to use a one-wheeled wheelbarrow, and to raise the solution to a height - a rope, a block, and a small bucket with a capacity of 30-50 liters.

There are also ways to significantly speed up the installation of mortar joints. Devices called templates for applying mortar allow you to speed up laying by 2-3 times. First, the entire row is covered with a uniform strip of binder, on which a new portion of stones is laid on top, and the entire new row is laid in one go. Templates make it possible to work not only faster, but also more accurately, maintaining a constant thickness of the seam, as well as reducing consumption and loss of the mixture.

For laying brick and thicker walls, it is more advisable to use carriages instead of templates. But this must be done carefully: the carriage works with a mixture of a more liquid consistency than is usually used for laying bricks. Therefore, the solution must be given some time to set, and when working with PCB or hollow bricks, each row must be covered with a fine polymer mesh, which will not allow the binder to fall into the cells.

Joining and ordering

The skill of rubble masonry is very ordinary; often quite serious demands are placed on the mason in terms of his artistic skill. But don’t think that without many years of practice you won’t be able to achieve perfectly smooth and clean seams. We have already seen that maintaining their constant thickness is very easy with special devices (templates), and the situation is exactly the same with leveling the masonry.

To tension the mooring, it is very convenient to use a tie rod. It is advisable that this device be manufactured at a factory. In this case, the notches will be made strictly with the same pitch, plus the kit will contain everything necessary to securely fasten the rail. For laying walls over 10 meters in length, it is recommended to use additional intermediate row posts to compensate for the sag of the cord.

Working with the improvement of seams is the second component of aesthetic brickwork. A lot of hand tools have also been invented to perform jointing. First of all, these are the jointing knives themselves, of which it is advisable to have two at your disposal: with a convex and concave working surface. It is desirable that the tip tapers towards the end, so you can work with any thickness of the seam. If the jointing is not recessed, it is advisable to have a light, thin strip on hand along which the tool will be guided. Otherwise, a jointing ladle will be sufficient, which is difficult to do without if the seams are filled with a tinted compound. Roller scrapers are also very suitable for simple jointing profiles.

TB and personal protective equipment

You cannot work effectively and at the same time be negligent about your own health. There are quite a lot of harmful production factors in the work of a bricklayer, some of which can put an end to a career.

The main danger to a mason's health is mortar. Its prolonged contact with the skin causes very serious irritation, so it is imperative to work in gloves that have hydrophobic impregnation on the inside of the palm, that is, simply rubberized. Another risk factor is getting the solution splashed into the eyes, which is especially dangerous if the mixture contains lime or caustic modifiers. Therefore, loading the solution and its preparation must be done with glasses. They don’t have to be dense and massive, carpentry or just sun protection will suffice, the main thing here is convenience.

How can we not forget about the dangers of working at heights? Even when working on high-quality modular scaffolding, there is always a chance of slipping. Therefore, work from the outer part of the wall above the 2nd floor (joining, installation of orders) should be carried out only with a safety sling. And, of course, head protection is the most important rule for working on construction sites - wear a helmet, even if work is not being carried out at a higher level.

Special devices

The list of tools and improvised means is not limited to this. Not only masons, but also any more or less experienced craftsmen always strive to make their work easier and increase productivity through the use of various types of devices. Some of them are made with your own hands, some are bought, but that’s not the point: these tools are quite specific, they don’t have to be in everyone’s arsenal, but they can be extremely useful. Among these are:

1. Shabrovki. Ideal for removing excess mortar inside ventilation and technical wells.

2. Formwork, most often homemade, helps to make small openings and loopholes, and is also indispensable when laying out arched structures. This also includes supporting frames for window and door openings.

3. If bricks of different sizes are used in the masonry, templates are very useful, allowing you to quickly determine the brand of stone. This is especially true when working with straight and wedge-shaped stones, which are not so easy to distinguish at first glance.

4. To lay walls in two layers with a gap, there is no need to align both lines along the berth. It is enough to guide one along the cord and align the second using a spacer frame.

The main tool a mason uses is a trowel. The builder practically does not let him out of his hands throughout the entire working day. It’s no wonder that every specialist tries to choose the most convenient masonry device for himself. Thanks to it, the hand gets tired less, and the work progresses faster.

What is a trowel (trowel)

A trowel is a metal spatula equipped with a handle. There are several basic options on sale. Models differ from each other in the size of the plate, the thickness of the metal and the material from which the handle is made.

There are trowels designed for masonry, plastering and concrete work. Certain construction operations place different demands on trowels. For example, a device for leveling concrete is large and durable. The mason's trowel looks narrower and more elegant against its background. After all, cement-sand mortar is lighter than concrete, and you don’t need to scoop it up in such large portions.

The plaster analogue is universal. If necessary, it can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for a wide range of tasks, including the construction of masonry or leveling of concrete.

Classic shapes of the working part of the instrument (blade): triangle, trapezoid, heart.

The differences described apply to devices for representatives of various specialties. A novice mason will be primarily interested in a trowel for building walls.

What to look for when choosing a trowel?

First you need to decide on the type of masonry. In practice, it is divided into rough and facing. The first includes the construction of internal walls, as well as backfilling of the outer mile. The second is the front part of the building.

An inexperienced builder will most likely be entrusted with capital walls and inter-apartment / interior partitions.

The main walls are massive. Their construction requires a lot of mortar. In addition, they are erected quickly and not as carefully as cladding, because later they are covered with a layer of plaster.

These features left their mark on the appearance of the trowel for rough masonry:

• large working part for greater solution capture;
• the decent thickness of the metal makes the trowel durable;
• impressive weight for knocking out bricks and blocks;

Such a trowel must be reliable. The load placed on the tool every day is impressive. Any defects in the instrument almost immediately render the instrument unusable.

The weakest point of the trowel is the attachment of the handle to the blade. If the weld is not of good quality, the masonry fixture breaks into two parts. Of course, if you have a welding machine at hand, it can be restored, but this takes time.

Trowels equipped with a wooden handle have another problem area. Over time, the fastening of the curved metal rod becomes loose, and the handle begins to rotate. Working with a trowel becomes inconvenient. It's not so much the load on the instrument, but the increased humidity. When exposed to dampness, wood is destroyed.

Tool repair involves increasing the diameter of the metal handle by wrapping it with a nylon cord and then treating it with glue. An alternative is to carefully drive in a couple of short nails.

Trowels with plastic handles do not have this disadvantage. This explains their high popularity among masons.

The veneerer's trowel looks more "toy-like". And all because with its help slightly different problems are solved. When laying the exterior of a building, the main emphasis is on cleanliness, beauty and neatness. A rough tool is not suitable for this.

The most commonly used blades are trapezoidal in shape. Their advantage is their blunt tip. It is convenient for them to apply the mortar to the end of the brick. As a result, vertical mortar joints are well filled.

A trowel in the form of a petal is slightly less common. They differ from the heart-shaped shoulder blade in their more elongated shape.

Unlike the trapezoid, it has a narrow, rounded tip. It is more difficult for them to throw mortar onto the short side of the brick. You have to make an additional movement to level the solution over the surface. Another small disadvantage is that it is inconvenient for them to empty the bucket from the remains of the cement-sand mixture.

When choosing a trowel for coating work, you should pay attention to the handle. Or rather, its backside. It is desirable that it be equipped with additional protection - a metal cap.

As noted above, the outside of the building is laid out as beautifully as possible. To lay the bricks in even rows, they have to be adjusted and tapped frequently. Some builders do this with the edge of a metal spatula. Others use the end of the handle.

While metal can withstand impacts more or less tolerantly, softer materials (plastic, wood) wear out quickly. A durable tip helps protect against such trouble. Unfortunately, not all models are equipped with it. There are two ways to correct the situation. A metal bolt heated over a fire is fused into the plastic handle. A screw with a wide head is screwed into a wooden one. With such homemade protection, the trowel will serve faithfully for many years.

When choosing a tool to work on a construction site, be sure to hold it in your hand. Feel how convenient it is to manipulate it. Experienced masons say that a good trowel should resemble a tablespoon. Be inconspicuous and roomy.

A construction trowel may outwardly seem like a primitive tool to you, but to this day it, almost unchanged since its invention, serves regularly on every site, in every house during construction and repairs. We decided to pay a little attention to him so that we know in what cases we can turn to his help.

Plastering trowel and other types – design

Today, so many different devices and multifunctional equipment have been invented for construction sites, which seem to make the process of constructing buildings and finishing work almost automatic. However, some processes still cannot be done without the human hand, and in these cases surprisingly simple tools are used, one of which is the mason's trowel, which often serves as the main tool for the plasterer.

It is often called a trowel; this term is more accurate; it even appears in regulatory documents that establish requirements for the production of this hand tool. Such a shovel is called a trowel only among builders, as if giving birth to a trivial name for this item. There are quite a few types of trowels, and their design seems to be very simple. How are they different? But, as we will see later, there is still a difference.

The trowel of a plasterer or similar specialist consists of a handle and a spatula, which is smoothly machined on both sides. The curved shape of the handle makes work convenient in exactly the plane in which such builders work. We will see such a device in the place where bricks or tiles are laid, finishing work is carried out both outside and inside the building, you can see its use for jointing, usually this process precedes plastering. That is, in all operations where some kind of mortar is involved, we will see a trowel.

Construction trowel – how is diversity born?

When you walk into a hardware store, you will discover not only the different purposes of these tools, but also other differences that often determine the cost. For example, there are several types of blade shapes alone. There is a triangular one, in which one corner is beveled, or you can find a specimen with two cut corners. You can see a beautiful heart shape instead of the usual triangular blade. There is also a trapezoid; often the area of ​​a triangular blade is not always enough, or the operation requires a wider and longer blade.

There are features of the English and Canadian trowels; their blade has a bend on one or both sides, respectively.

The material of the blade is usually a steel sheet, and quite noticeable thickness. There are also examples made of low-quality metal of a strange nature; such an instrument does not last long, and this can be predicted at an unusually low price. Steel is often hardened so that it can work with heavy concrete mortar, but a trowel for plaster is not so strict on the strength of the material. Then the metal is galvanized, polished, and the result is such a nice thing, to which a curved handle is attached, and a handle is attached to it. This part can be made of wood or durable plastic, sometimes rubber is found; for better grip with the worker’s glove, corrugations are made.

Determine the functional purpose of the tool

The most interesting thing is the division into classes according to functionality. For a mason, the tool must be strengthened, since he works with bricks or blocks, laying them on cement mortar. The tool also helps to check the level of masonry for two adjacent stones, level them by applying the even edge of a spatula, you can even chop bricks with such a trowel. The latter is possible with those varieties that have a curved edge (English or Canadian).

You need to draw the solution with the side with a straight edge. Many people successfully use this device to simply mix the solution when preparing it; this is very convenient if you prepare it by hand and not with a mixer. The sizes vary greatly, as do the shapes of the canvas. However, you need to know the main thing: the longer the trowel, the heavier it is, so when purchasing, consider your strength, especially if you are not a professional.

A plaster trowel has less weight because the main composition with which it works is gypsum or plaster. A more elegant tool is often used to smooth out the resulting layer, as if polishing it. There is also a separate type of trowel - jointing, which is slightly different in appearance, because instead of a spatula it has a thin rod (blade). Using this trowel, neat seams between bricks are cleared or formed. If the strip of metal is slightly curved, then this type is used to scrape out excess from the space between the seams. The length of the blade sometimes reaches 10 cm.

A concrete trowel is a nice triangular shaped spatula, which is the most convenient way to handle stone and mortar. The tiler operates with a trapezoidal trowel, the plasterer tries to choose small sizes (up to 10 cm), and sometimes uses an 18-centimeter tool to finish large areas. A funny “toothed” spatula is used for the tiler’s work at the stage of applying ribs to the layer of glue or cement on which it will be placed. Its teeth can be up to 1 cm in size, because sometimes the tile is heavy, and the layer of adhesive mortar is quite impressive.

Mason's trowel - weak point and its repair

It’s not difficult to use a trowel; you can perform a huge range of work, but it usually has a short life, and the cheaper your tool, the shorter it is. The main failure is the destruction of the connection between the blade and the handle; this is the most flimsy place, like any assembly unit. After all, the maximum load falls on him. Upon quick inspection, it becomes obvious that this is a simple welding, and two points are made that experience thousands of barely noticeable bends per day of work. Even an expensive high-quality tool lasts for about a year, after which its safety margin ends.

Many people try to weld a blade in order to extend the life of their assistant a little more. For ferrous metal this is of almost no help, and even less useful in the case of stainless steel. But you can try to correct the situation with a rivet; many have already experienced the effectiveness of this option. You can use a specialized one, and besides, the rivets themselves are made professionally. Or get creative and use a regular nail for this; the diameter should be at least 3 mm.

Where we plan to make a mount in the handle, we drill two holes, and if the material is of high quality, you will need time and patience, as well as a strong drill. Next, we apply the handle to the blade and mark the places where to make holes already on the canvas. In order not to get lost, first make a mark so that the center of the blade is visible, otherwise your work in the future will not work out with the revived trowel.

Before inserting the nail, work it under the head so that it can fit snugly on the blade of the blade, and no notches interfere, otherwise the construction mixture will get into this space. Now we pass the nail into the first hole, press its head tightly, and cut off the other side, leaving 3 mm. We turn it over, place a sledgehammer under the trowel so that the head rests against it, and on top of it with a hammer, hammer the protruding tip of the cut nail. We do the same with the second hole.

Masonry is a complex and responsible job, without which the construction or major renovation of a house is rarely complete. The main difficulty lies in the need to accurately observe axial and interelement distances, which ultimately affects not only the appearance of the masonry, but also its performance characteristics.

Therefore, both amateurs and professional masons are increasingly making Brick laying equipment. This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, especially if you have a good theoretical basis.

Standard masonry tools

Bricklaying requires some experience, constant concentration, and, importantly, a lot of time related to auxiliary control and measurement work.

The use of special devices helps to facilitate the process. They can be purchased at construction stores, but this is, firstly, expensive, and secondly, it does not allow taking into account individual characteristics associated with the actual parameters of the brick and the structures created from it.

Read our article about the standard size of red brick.

All equipment used for manual masonry can be divided into three large groups: basic hand tools, control equipment and mechanized devices. The first group is fundamental. It includes:

• Trowel (trowel).

This is a small flat spatula with a handle to hold it that is used for applying the binder solution onto the surface and distribution over it, as well as trimming and removing excess solution.

Depending on the shape, trowels are divided into type KB (triangular), type KP (triangular with rounded corners at the base and a sharp top), and specialized, for example, trapezoidal or triangular with completely rounded corners.

• Joining.

It looks like a long narrow groove attached to the handle and serves for forming seams, control of their thickness, removal of residual excess solution. There are convex and concave joints. An important parameter that determines the performance characteristics of the tool is the groove profile.

• Correct hammer (pick).

  Performs two main functions: block trimming to give them the required size and shape, as well as to correct minor installation inaccuracies on uncured or semi-cured mortar without removing the brick, that is, by light tapping.

The tool has two working surfaces: a wide one, with a cross-section in the shape of a square or circle, and a narrow one - a pick.

Testing equipment is required to ensure maximum masonry accuracy and includes the following main varieties:

• Building level.

A linear instrument in the body of which transparent ampoules are fixed, partially filled with liquid. When the level is located on the controlled surface, the liquid, under the influence of gravity, occupies a certain position in the ampoule, squeezing the air bubble into a position relative to the control lines, which allows one to roughly determine the slope angle.

Construction levels are classified according to the length, number and location of ampoules.

• Plumb.

It is a conical or bullet-shaped weight attached to an inelastic thread. It allows you to control the verticality of structures by relative displacement from the point of fixation of the thread in the horizontal plane.

Plumb lines are classified by weight: weights from 200 to 400 grams are used at heights up to 3 meters, from 600 to 1000 grams– for measurements at a height of several floors.

• Templates, rules – slats, squares and other products whose purpose is form compliance control(flatness, angles, roundings, etc.) to nominal values ​​by comparison with the template.
• Mooring (control cord)- a dense inelastic thread that is stretched along the rows of masonry and is used as a guide - an indicator of linearity.
• Order.

Essentially, a large ruler, with the price of divisions corresponding to the nominal width of the row. For classic brick masonry with a thickness of 65 mm, the CD of the order is equal to 77 mm, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

The orders may or may not be fixed on the masonry. Devices that allow for fixed installation in corners usually have holes for securing moorings.

• Mechanized devices.

Don't confuse them with automated– this type of tool does not provide any drive elements or complex systems.

Its name only says about the ability to reduce the share of manual installation and control work by applying the following mechanisms:

Industrial mason kits

There are many ready-made mason kits available on the modern market, including all three main groups of tools. Domestic kits are most widespread "Brick" and their foreign analogues "Bricky". These sets include:

• cuvette for applying the solution;
• template for laying single bricks;
• template for one and a half;
• control corner;
• order;
• mooring;
• trowel.

Manufacturers position the product as amateur, that is, not requiring special construction skills. It is simple and intuitive to use, allowing you to get good results in the shortest possible time.

Most kits come with, among other things, not only paper instructions, but also video tutorial, which describes in detail the use of each tool.

What is included in the beginner mason's kit - watch the video:

A device you can make with your own hands (video)

How to make super gadget for laying bricks yourself, find out from the video:

Homemade masonry equipment involves the use of wooden beams and slats, plywood or chipboard, steel or aluminum profiles. The choice of material must be carried out taking into account the skills in its processing.

So, the structure can be assembled with bolts or screws literally in one evening, but it will most likely fail quite quickly. An aluminum profile can be fastened with rivets or bolts, but a steel profile will be more securely welded.

In addition, a durable plastic container of the required width can serve as a good raw material - its alteration will come down to removing part of the bottom and attaching stops.

Regardless of the material, structural units devices will be:

1. A frame, the internal width of which must correspond to the width of the brick and fit snugly around its entire perimeter. The frame consists of longitudinal and transverse beams, which are rigid or sliding.
2. Sides - limit the width and height if the frame beams are insufficiently thick or it is necessary to place additional elements.
3. Stops - are attached to the frame and serve to fix the structure on the bottom row of bricks or side surfaces.
4. Control, measuring and auxiliary elements are optional components that simplify the work with the device.

Making a device for laying bricks with your own hands will not require large financial investments, and will also allow take into account all individual nuances, which distinguishes it favorably from similar industrially produced goods.

Specifics of working with facing bricks

The main function of facing bricks is; it shapes the appearance of surfaces, gives them stylistic completeness, a more harmonious and aesthetic appearance.

However, there is also the other side of the coin - due to the specific shape and texture, as well as the need to strictly adhere to geometric parameters, laying facing bricks creates additional difficulties compared to conventional brickwork. These include:

1. the unsuitability of rough hand tools for working with some decorative surfaces;
2. special requirements for the quality of control, measurement and adjustment work;
3. often - changing the composition of the solution, using tinting and binding agents;
4. specific technologies for working with narrow and thick types of facing bricks;
5. difficulty of figured masonry.

Here the use of mechanized devices will be more relevant than ever.

However, the general design described in the previous section should be modified to take into account the thickness and shape of the cladding blocks.

For figured masonry a special, highly specialized class of devices is distinguished, the design of which is developed separately for each specific case and often includes hinge joints, stepper mechanisms and other complex components.