Caring for garden raspberries in August. Caring for raspberries after harvest

Most people are convinced that raspberry is an unpretentious plant, but any gardener knows very well how the lack of attention to her “majesty” affects the harvest.

Anyone who wants to savor the sweet berries must be armed with the necessary knowledge and the desire to provide the raspberries with the necessary care.

Good care for raspberries in August and September: pruning, pruning, fertilizing and more

List of necessary actions for raspberries is as follows:

fertilizer;
pest removal;
pruning and pruning;
control of bush growth;
mulching;
garter and bend down.

It is difficult to say which care is a priority; all of the above is important.

Fertilizer is necessary so that the root of the plant receives the necessary minerals and nutrients, without which it will not be able to fully develop. Thanks to fertilizing, raspberry stems will be able to thicken and fill with fructose, helping to survive frosts.

Removal of harmful insects, fungi and other ill-wishers is done by pruning, because most of them settle on the tops of plants.

If you do not get rid of pests, the plant may die or become weak and infertile. They also spray to ensure that enemies are destroyed.

Pruning needed not only to remove pests, but also to clean up old raspberry shoots. Old-timers will slow down the development of the plant and will not give the desired harvest, because the ability to bear fruit in two-year-old branches is greatly reduced.

Pruning is needed not only to remove pests, but also to remove old raspberry shoots

With the help of pruning, the height of the plant is regulated, on which the saturation of the branches with nutrients depends. Depending on the variety, the height varies between 1.2–1.7 m.

Control over the growth of bushes is necessary for a tasty harvest. Raspberries grow at a rapid pace and if you don’t keep an eye on it, within a year a neat row will turn into abandoned thickets.

If there is close proximity, young berries do not receive the necessary sunlight, ripen slowly and, as a result, become sour. The ideal distance between bushes is 60–70 cm, and in rows – 1.5 m.

Mulching is carried out by covering the ground with straw, sawdust, leaves, peat, crushed tree bark or special purchased material.

This layer will help to effectively fight weeds, conserve moisture in the soil, and improve the water-air regime.

Gartering and ducking represent two stages of one action– prepare and save bushes from frost and winter drafts. Their essence is to tie the stems of bushes together and bend them towards the ground, which is the best heater.

How to properly care for raspberries after harvesting

We’ve barely had time to enjoy this season’s harvest when we immediately need to think about the next one. Caring for raspberries after picking berries in August means:

pruning shoots and dried branches;
loosening the soil;
feeding with fertilizers;
tying up bushes.

The first thing you should do after collecting the last berries is cut the branches where they grew. All the same, next summer young shoots will actively produce fruit.

For this manipulation, it is better to choose pruners with long handles, thanks to which you can reach into the depths of the bush. The cut branches are thrown away or burned in an iron container.

Raspberry ashes are used as food for the future generation.

You need to trim not only old shoots, but also diseased branches. A properly pruned plant should have 6–7 young shoots.

If necessary you need thin out the bushes, giving the raspberries a well-groomed appearance. This will not only add aesthetic beauty, but will also allow the plant to breathe better.

You need to trim not only old raspberry shoots, but also diseased branches

Now it's time to lightly loosen the soil. The raspberry root is shallow, so deep digging with a shovel is prohibited.

The ideal option would be surface loosening with a small fork. After this action, the roots will receive more oxygen and weed growth will decrease.

Loosened soil is an excellent base for fertilizer. Phosphorus or potassium, which is scattered around the circumference of the bushes, is suitable. For each bush use 1 tbsp. l. fertilizers

To prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases It doesn’t hurt to spray the raspberry tree with an insecticide solution, for example, 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Those wishing to fertilize raspberries with liquid organic matter or nitrogen should leave their thoughts until spring; in winter they will not bring any benefit. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied maximum until mid-September.

A garter remains for the finish, which is to prevent strong winds and snowdrifts from breaking the branches of the bushes.

It is necessary to build a support, for example, it could be a lattice fence, and tie each bush to it in several places. Thanks to the garter, the plants will gain additional strength.

Such simple actions will help raspberries survive the winter and pamper them with delicious berries in the summer.

Autumn treatment scheme

Autumn processing of raspberries is not much different from care after harvesting. Basically, all raspberry varieties finish producing in the fall, after which processing begins: pruning, thinning, loosening, fertilizing, tying.

If you ignore these actions, then even remontant varieties will lose the ability to give birth twice.

To the previously described care should be added:

topping;
treating plants against pests.

Pinching is done to form bushes and accelerate the ripening of annual shoots, which contribute to productivity.

Thanks to this agricultural technique, the growth of preserved unpruned branches is enhanced, the buds are awakened, promoting the growth of lateral branches.

You should only pinch tall raspberry varieties that are not prone to branching, but low-growing plants do not need this technique.

Only tall raspberry varieties should be pinched.

To prevent pinching from harming raspberries, it is done from the second year after planting a healthy, strong seedling. For pinching, two tips of young shoots 7–10 cm long are connected to each other.

In addition to cleaning the area, digging and thinning, care should be taken to destroy dangerous insects or take preventive measures. If there are infected leaves and branches, they should be torn off and burned.

To combat diseases or pests, the following means are used:

Fufanon– spray solution, prepared in the proportion of 10 ml of insecticide per 10 liters of water. Consumption – 1–1,250 l per 1 bush.
Aktellik– ampoules, 1 ampoule is used for 2 liters of water. For 1 bush, use 1.5 liters of the prepared solution.
Intavir- pills. Before treatment, dilute 1 tablet in a bucket of water.
Iron/copper sulfate will help defeat moss and lichen. Water the soil near the bushes with the solution.

A separate point is the shelter of the raspberry tree from the harsh winter.

How to prepare bushes for shelter

The following preparation measures include the wintering of raspberry bushes:

mulching;
tying;
shelter;
snow retention.

In mid-October, cover the ground with an average of 15 cm of mulch., this will help the root system retain heat and necessary moisture.

In addition, when it begins to decompose, it will perform the function of organic materials, promoting the growth of the root system and rich fruiting.

The main purpose of mulch is to prevent young shoots from growing in winter so that they do not die. To mulch plants, one of many materials is used: manure, peat, sawdust, hay, pine needles, grass clippings or chopped branches.

The branches of the plant need to be tied up so that they do not break under the weight of snow. Various materials and structures are used as support, for example, ordinary wooden posts, and wire is stretched between them.

You need to tie up the raspberry branches so that they do not break under the weight of the snow.

The bottom wire should maintain a distance from the ground of -18–21 cm. This work should be done in the fall before frost, so that the stems do not become stiff and can bend.

The bushes are tied in several places, bending the branches in an arc, using a strong cord or nylon thread.

Raspberry shelter relevant for gardeners living in particularly cold, harsh regions with insufficient snowfall. This is done at the last moment after bending down the plants.

To provide additional warmth, you should stretch spandbond or lutarsil over the bushes, then press it down with something heavy around the edges so that it does not blow away in the wind.

As an option, you can build a protective structure from polycarbonate, which bends.

Snow retention is measures taken to accumulate snow in areas where there is a shortage of it in winter. For raspberries, the snow level should not exceed 100 cm.

Melted snow water is of great importance for the earth and plants directly, which is why it is so important to delay the moment of its separation.

To do this it is necessary in February, at a temperature of about 0 degrees, build piles of snow and cover them with a shield or use different items for a “live” hedge.

How to do bending down - a necessary stage of preparation for winter

It is advisable to bend all varieties, even frost-resistant ones., because in reality many of them do not survive winters. Bending down is done so that the bushes are completely covered with snow and do not freeze, and also to protect them from drafts.

The easiest way, which is used in mid-October:

Carefully trim off the tops of branches and leaves.
Slowly, so as not to damage the plant, wrap the bushes into a pile with a thick rope.
Attach a weight to the other end and place it on the ground.

The plant will immediately bend towards the ground. If everything is correct, the bushes will be inclined in an arc in one direction.

As a second method You can suggest tying the branches together and then tying them to the wire on the support.

Raspberries should not lie on the ground; the distance between them and the soil is on average 20 cm.

Bending down is done so that the bushes are completely covered with snow and do not freeze

How to prune and prune in autumn

Pruning is carried out in late autumn, before the onset of the first frosts. There are different types of pruning, but the two most commonly used are:

shortening;
normal pruning.

Trimming involves removing the tops of plants, suitable for common varieties. With standard pruning, 60–70% of the stem is removed, and if this is the case with a remontant variety, it can be shortened almost to the ground.

The main thing is that the vegetative vigor of the raspberries is high, and then it quickly grows back. When pruning varieties of regular and standard raspberries with pruning shears, two-year-old shoots are completely removed.

Caring for raspberries in the fall is not as labor-intensive and difficult as it might seem. Of course, you need to work a little, but by summer fatigue will be forgotten, and a rich harvest of ripe sweet berries will delight you.

The main thing is not to forget to quickly remove possible shelters in the spring so that the branches can align and develop unhindered.

If protective covers are not removed, the soil will suffer from a lack of oxygen, ventilation, and will also be susceptible to fungal infections and dampness.

After harvesting raspberries, the harvest for next year begins, so it is very important to properly prepare raspberries for winter.

Caring for raspberries after harvest

Raspberries, grown in a two-year cycle, require close attention in late summer. To ensure a bountiful harvest next year, several measures need to be taken:

feed the raspberries;
prune old branches;
treat against diseases and pests;
cover for the winter.

Raspberry feeding

Preparing raspberries for the end of the season begins in August - it is at this time that the plant needs potassium and phosphorus. These microelements help prepare young shoots for wintering: the bark is strengthened, buds are formed, and the frost resistance of raspberries increases.

It is best to use ash or ash solution. If August is humid, it rains and the weather is cool, then you need to add 100 grams of wood ash under each bush. If the weather is dry and hot, then it is better to prepare an ash solution: pour 1 glass of ash with 1 liter of boiling water and let it brew for several hours. Dilute the resulting infusion in 10 liters of water and water the raspberries at the rate of 1 bucket per bush, while the soil in the raspberry garden should be moist.

Superphosphate is applied to the soil in dry form and then incorporated

Ash can be replaced with mineral fertilizers: superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The soil under the bushes must first be loosened or dug up to a depth of no more than 10 cm, then, retreating 20 cm from the center of the bush, scatter 50 grams of superphosphate and 40 grams of potassium sulfate. After applying the fertilizer, you need to loosen the soil again.

Potassium sulfate is a chlorine-free fertilizer that helps increase the frost resistance of raspberries

In October or November, with the onset of constant frosts, several buckets of rotted manure or compost are scattered under the raspberry bushes; this will protect the root system from the cold if the winter has little snow.

Trimming

After collecting all the berries, the old fruit-bearing branches are immediately cut out, without waiting for autumn and leaf fall. In addition to old branches, you need to remove diseased and thin branches, leaving on each bush from 5 to 8 young shoots of the current year.

Fruit-bearing raspberry shoots are cut out flush with the ground, leaving no stumps.

In September and October it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying against pests and diseases. The biological preparations Farmayod and Fitolavin, which are diluted according to the instructions, cope well with fungal and viral diseases.

To destroy harmful insects overwintering on the soil under raspberries and on their shoots, the following drugs are used:

Actellik - 2 ml diluted in 2 liters of water;
Inta-vir - 1 tablet per 10 liters of water;
Fufanon - 10 ml per 10 liters of water.

Shelter for the winter

Many varieties of raspberries do not tolerate snowless, frosty winters well, so after the leaves fall, the raspberry shoots are untied from the trellis and bent to the ground, covered with spruce branches or spandbond.

It is important to bend raspberry shoots to the ground, and not tie them in a bunch to stakes, then most of the buds will be under the snow and will not freeze

Caring for remontant raspberries

Remontant raspberries begin to bloom in early August, and the berry ripening period extends until the end of September. Some varieties of remontant raspberries bear fruit until frost and the first snow.

Watering and fertilizing

In August you need to monitor soil moisture. In dry and hot weather, raspberries must be watered, soaking the earthen ball by 20–30 cm. To retain moisture in the soil longer, mulch the plantings with hay, straw, peat or compost. In rainy weather, watering is not carried out.

You can feed raspberries during the flowering and fruiting period with an infusion of cow manure or chicken droppings, and in September and October they are fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, using the same dosage as for regular raspberries. You can replace store-bought fertilizers with wood ash by sprinkling a glass of ash under a bush.

During fruiting of remontant raspberries, you need to ensure that the soil under the bushes is moist.

Trimming

If the raspberry branches were left in the winter and they bloomed in the summer, then immediately after picking the berries, these shoots should be cut out to give more light and nutrition to the young shoots. Summer branches will bloom in August and will bear fruit throughout the fall, so they are cut after the last berries have been collected or after severe frosts. However, you can leave a few shoots in the spring without pruning, then next year they will bloom in June and give an early harvest.

Remontant raspberries are pruned late in the fall, leaving virtually no stumps.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Usually, remontant raspberries are completely cut off in the fall, so there is no need to spray the bushes.

Shelter for the winter

Before covering raspberries for the winter, remove all weeds, branches, debris, and fallen leaves from under the bushes. If the bush is completely pruned, then mulch the growth point with straw, hay or compost, making a layer of mulch from 10 to 20 cm.

If some of the branches of remontant raspberries are left for next year, then it is advisable to bend them to the ground and secure them so that the buds do not freeze.

Video - how to prepare raspberries for winter

Preparing raspberries for winter includes 4 stages: fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, pruning old and diseased shoots, treating against diseases and pests, and sheltering for the winter.

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Raspberries requires some care after the fruiting period. Carrying out such operations as pruning shoots, transplanting bushes to a new place and installing a trellis will rejuvenate raspberry bushes and increase productivity.

Transplanting raspberries to a new place

Crowded rows of raspberries need to be transplanted to a new location to provide the raspberries with more space between the rows.

With densely planted bushes, raspberries do not have enough sun, poor ventilation, and the berries become smaller because of this.

Leave the distance between rows at 1 meter, and between seedlings in a row leave 70 cm.

Raspberry yield directly depends on the quality of planting material, so select the healthiest and youngest seedlings for transplanting to a new location.

Read also: Remontant raspberries: planting and care, feeding and pruning

When choosing a seedling, be guided by the thickness of the shoot, it should be at least 1 cm in diameter. Dig up the most developed specimens, being careful not to destroy the earthen ball at the roots.

Prepare a hole about 30 cm deep and place the seedling without deepening it so that the root collar is at soil level.

Fill the hole with soil and compact the soil around it a little. At the end of the transplantation, water the seedlings generously - about 10 liters of water per bush, the soil should be saturated to a depth of at least 20 cm.

Pruning shoots after fruiting

The next step in caring for fruitful raspberries is pruning spent shoots. Select old, diseased, poorly developed, thin shoots from the bush and trim them with pruning shears at the very base at soil level.

Read also: How to prune raspberries correctly?

When pruning, do not leave stumps, as pests can settle on them. Ultimately, young and strong stems should remain.

It is enough to leave 6-8 stems per bush. Thus, all the nutrition will go to these shoots and next year they will give a good harvest.

Fertilizing raspberries after fruiting

After pruning and replanting, the raspberry bushes need to be fed. For feeding, chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1 x 20 is best suited, or you can scatter 1 tbsp. spoon of Superphosphate under each raspberry bush.

After fertilizing, loosen the soil to a depth of 5-10 cm, no deeper, and mulch the top layer. Any plant materials are suitable as mulch.

Installation of a vertical trellis

For the trellis you will need wooden blocks 20x50 mm, 6 m long. Along the edges of the raspberry, so that it remains inside, we drive supports into the ground every 3 meters.

Finally, we attach wooden blocks to them. Wooden posts, plastic pipes, or remnants of reinforcement can be used as supports.

The result will be single-strip trellises with a distance of 1 m between them. Such a trellis will provide the bushes with good support and will contribute to the correct formation of the bushes.

The advantage of such trellises is that there is no need to tie each branch to the rail; raspberries grow freely in the space allotted to them; wooden crossbars, unlike wire or twine, do not injure young shoots through direct contact.

Also, thanks to such a wooden trellis, a well-groomed appearance of the entire raspberry tree is created.

Video - Caring for RASPBERRY after harvest

Wishing you great raspberry harvests!

Incredibly important in caring for raspberries in the fall is autumn feeding after harvesting. As you know, this berry plant is very responsive to fertilizer, so we can say with confidence that in order for the raspberry bush to grow and bear fruit properly next season, you should put your hands into saturating it with nutrients this year. We will tell you in our article why and when to feed raspberries, as well as what fertilizers are best to use after harvesting, and the most suitable options and combinations.

Why and when to feed raspberries after fruiting or in the fall

The purpose of feeding raspberries in the autumn is to thoroughly prepare them for winter, in other words, so that the bush can regain strength and easily endure winter frosts, and most importantly, it will lay flower buds well for the next year and, as a result, produce a bountiful harvest.

If the fruiting of the berry bush was quite intense and plentiful, the raspberries have spent all their strength (all the nutrients have been “sucked” out of the soil), which means that they must be restored so that the bushes will again begin active growth and fruiting next season.

Worth knowing! The end of fruiting and harvesting of raspberries, as a rule, occurs at the end of summer (sometimes even in the middle), but such fertilizing is usually called autumn, because fertilizers are still applied after some time, that is, closer to autumn, for example, in the middle zone ( Moscow region) - this is August-September.

Interesting! If you have remontant raspberries that bear fruit twice, then you will definitely fertilize them in the fall, in September-October.

How to feed raspberries in the fall or what fertilizers to apply to the bushes after harvesting

During the period after fruiting, raspberries require phosphorus and potassium, since these fertilizers are responsible for the growth and strengthening of the root system of the shrub, namely its resistance in winter (frost resistance) and immunity to various diseases.

Before applying autumn fertilizer to raspberry bushes, the tree trunk circle should be cleared of weeds, old mulch and loosened, but not too deep (5-10 cm), since the root system of the bush is quite close to the surface.

It is recommended to feed only on damp soil. In other words, before applying fertilizer, the bush should be watered so that it does not get burned by the roots from the applied fertilizer.
Dry fertilizing should be thoroughly mixed with the soil so that the plant again does not get burnt to the root system due to direct contact with the fertilizer.
If you want to liquid fertilizer got to the roots faster, then you need not just embed fertilizers into the soil while digging, but make holes or grooves (grooves) 20-25 cm deep at a distance of 30-35 cm around the perimeter of the crown, then pour fertilizing there and dig it in.

Advice! Any granular mineral fertilizer(especially superphosphate) better pre-dissolve in a separate container in hot water (but not boiling water), since granules, as a rule, dissolve in cold water rather poorly and slowly.

In the end you need to choose 1 phosphate fertilizer, 1 potassium fertilizer, and optional you can additionally contribute manure or compost (for digging, or mulch).

As a phosphorus fertilizer for raspberries in the fall, you can use:

Important! For 1 sq. meter, as a rule, one, maximum two raspberry bushes are placed.

Note! You should not apply phosphorus chloride fertilizers to raspberries.(For example, diammophos, because it contains a lot of nitrogen, and potassium metaphosphate chlorosis.

As a potassium fertilizer for raspberries in the fall, you can use:

Calimagnesia or Kalimag (potassium and magnesium sulfate). 15-30 grams per 1 square meter, or dissolve in a bucket of water.

Potassium sulfate or potassium sulfate. 20-30 grams per 1 sq. meter, or dissolve in 10 liters of water.

Important! In no case Potassium chloride fertilizers should not be applied to raspberries(For example, potassium chloride or potassium salt). Such fertilizing can cause plant disease chlorosis.

Wood ash. 100-200 grams per 1 sq. meter. Again, you can either sprinkle the soil or prepare liquid fertilizer, for example, an extract.

Note! If you prepare wood ash yourself, then it is worth knowing that in the ash, which was obtained from deciduous trees, contained more potassium, and from conifers - phosphorus. When buying a ready-made package of ash in a store, you need to familiarize yourself with its composition, which should be presented on the label.

Additionally, after fruiting (recommended once every 3-4 years), classic organic fertilizer of animal origin is applied to the raspberries, namely chicken droppings(in granules), which can be either scattered dry (1 kg per 1 sq. meter) or watered between the rows with a solution prepared in a ratio of 1 to 15 or even 20.

Worth considering! An organic fertilizer such as chicken manure contains nitrogen, which means that the bush must have time to process it, so this fertilizing should be done after fruiting (at the end of summer), but not in the fall, or especially late autumn (for remontant plants). raspberries).

Also in the fall you can add for digging rotted cow and horse manure (or compost), somewhere 5-10 kg per 1 square meter.

It will be just great if you plant raspberries between the rows in the summer green manure (mustard, vetch, clover), and after harvesting (in the summer) or closer to autumn, mow them, embed them in the soil and dig them up, thereby receiving excellent delayed fertilizing, which will play its role next spring.

By the way! There is a special phosphorus-potassium complex mineral fertilizer, which is sold labeled “autumn”.

Video: fertilizer for raspberry beds in autumn

Additional autumn activities for caring for raspberries and preparing them for winter

In addition to applying nutritious fertilizers to the raspberry bush, you will also need to carry out the following important autumn activities to prepare the bush for winter and the next season:

autumn pruning;

Important! More details about pruning regular and remontant raspberries in the fall read In this article.

transplanting shrubs to a new location;

Note! Detailed information about transplanting raspberries to a new place in the fall stated in this material.

autumn treatment against pests and diseases;
moisture-charging irrigation (50-60 liters of water per 1 sq.m of raspberry plantings);
garter;

Advice! About, how to tie raspberries in autumn and spring, read here.

mulching and shelter for the winter.

By the way! A general article about autumn care and preparing raspberries for winter has been posted via this link.

Video: feeding raspberries and caring for shrubs after harvesting

Proper and timely application of fertilizers in the fall, after fruiting, will help to stock up on large amounts of nutrients responsible for the growth and vital activity of the root system of the raspberry bush, and in the future for a large harvest. The most important thing during this period is not to miss the options for feeding, their combinations and doses.

Advice! In order for raspberries to delight you with a generous harvest of large and fragrant berries, it is necessary to fertilize them both in the fall and in the spring (this is generally the most important feeding).

About spring feeding of raspberries read Here.

After harvesting raspberries, the harvest for next year begins, so it is very important to properly prepare raspberries for winter.

Raspberries, grown in a two-year cycle, require close attention in late summer. To ensure a bountiful harvest next year, several measures need to be taken:

feed the raspberries;
prune old branches;
treat against diseases and pests;
cover for the winter.

Raspberry feeding

Superphosphate is applied to the soil in dry form and then incorporated

Potassium sulfate is a chlorine-free fertilizer that helps increase the frost resistance of raspberries

Trimming

Fruit-bearing raspberry shoots are cut out flush with the ground, leaving no stumps.

To destroy harmful insects overwintering on the soil under raspberries and on their shoots, the following drugs are used:

Actellik - 2 ml diluted in 2 liters of water;
Inta-vir - 1 tablet per 10 liters of water;
Fufanon - 10 ml per 10 liters of water.

Shelter for the winter

It is important to bend raspberry shoots to the ground, and not tie them in a bunch to stakes, then most of the buds will be under the snow and will not freeze

Caring for remontant raspberries

Watering and fertilizing

During fruiting of remontant raspberries, you need to ensure that the soil under the bushes is moist.

Trimming

Remontant raspberries are pruned late in the fall, leaving virtually no stumps.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Usually, remontant raspberries are completely cut off in the fall, so there is no need to spray the bushes.

Shelter for the winter

If some of the branches of remontant raspberries are left for next year, then it is advisable to bend them to the ground and secure them so that the buds do not freeze.

Video - how to prepare raspberries for winter

Caring for raspberries after harvesting is an important stage in growing shrubs. In autumn, raspberries accumulate nutritious juice for the winter, the plant is renewed and prepared for the new fruiting season. It is in August and September that it is important to carry out not only fertilizing, but also pruning of bushes and treatment against diseases and pests. How to properly care for raspberries after fruiting? Reviews, advice from summer residents, and videos will help a novice gardener learn the rules of caring for raspberries.

Caring for raspberries in late summer and autumn is simple

Caring for raspberries after fruiting I

Caring for raspberries in August and September is simple and does not take the gardener too much time. The main thing is to provide the plant with nutrients, water it regularly, and protect it from disease. According to reviews, it may take only a few hours to carry out all events per month. The yield of the bush will increase significantly.

What measures do gardeners take first to care for raspberries after fruiting? Pruning is one of them. Autumn pruning of raspberries begins 20-30 days before the onset of frost. The following stems are subject to removal, namely:

stems older than 2 years;
with mechanical damage;
affected by fungi and diseases;
weak and poorly developed branches.

When pruning, the shoot is shortened to the very root so that no stump remains. Gardeners recommend leaving no more than 10 of the strongest shoots per 1 square meter, and removing the rest. When pruning remontant raspberries, it is worth leaving shoots up to 10 cm long.

Autumn pruning of raspberries has a positive effect on the development of the entire plant, which begins to expend all its energy on building up the root mass. In addition, after formation the bush is better ventilated, there is no shading. As a result, raspberries are rarer and...

All cut branches and remaining leaves are removed from the site and burned. Pests, their larvae, as well as fungal spores, bacteria, and viruses can find refuge in plant debris.

Caring for raspberries in August and September e

Nitrogen is not applied under the bush in the fall, as raspberries lose their cold resistance.

In the second half of summer, raspberries not only need to be watered. After moistening the ground under the bush, the soil is mulched with dry grass so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly. Experienced gardeners use manure as mulch, which is scattered around in an even layer. Gradually, the fertilizer will saturate the soil around the bush, and in winter it will warm the roots.

In the second half of summer, chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20 is used as fertilizer. The composition can include ash 200 - 300 g. Ash is a source of microelements and perfectly replaces complex mineral fertilizers. In autumn, the shrub needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Nitrogen is not applied under the bush in the fall, as raspberries lose cold resistance. Nitrogen fertilizing is used only in spring and the first half of summer.

In August and September, summer residents continue to fight weeds. For this purpose, it is important to weed the raspberry tree, trying to simultaneously loosen the soil to a depth of about 5 cm. After this procedure, the root system receives more oxygen, and nutrients penetrate the ground faster.

Preparing raspberries for winter begins before the arrival of frost or the first snowfall. To cover the raspberries, their stems are carefully bent to the ground and secured with a trellis or metal arch. If the region has snowy winters, then the shoots do not need to be covered. Snow reliably protects raspberries from hypothermia. In case of scanty snowfall, it is better to protect the bush with covering material so that air can circulate freely under it.

Caring for raspberries after harvest, video:

Caring for raspberries after harvest includes a number of activities, namely pruning, fertilizing, watering, protection from pests and diseases. All procedures are very important, since the raspberry yield next year depends on it.

RASPBERRY IN AUGUST-SEPTEMBER. PLANTING AND CARE

It is best to plant raspberries in late summer - from mid-August to mid-September. The soil is improved by adding rotted compost (1-2 buckets per plant). Deoxidize with ash (a liter jar under a bush) or add a glass of lime. Planting holes or trenches should be well saturated with water so that the plants are planted in the mud. Make mounds, spread the roots over them (broken or dry ones should be cut out first) and cover them with dry soil. In the trench, the bushes are planted on mounds located 80 cm from each other. Then the trench is completely covered with soil. After planting, the soil is not compacted, but only lightly pressed around the raspberry stems.

Raspberry planting material should be shortened immediately upon purchase, leaving the stems only 20-25 cm high. If you are planting young shoots from your plantation, then they should also be shortened to the same height before planting. Otherwise, the leaves, evaporating moisture, will dry out the stem, which is not supplied with moisture until the bush has taken root and sucking roots appear.
Several different varieties should be planted, since raspberries require cross-pollination. In addition, you need to have varieties of different ripening periods in your raspberry garden.
In the future, no more than 4 young shoots are left in the bush in addition to last year’s 4 stems. If you leave more than 4 young shoots at the beginning of summer, the bushes become very thick, which leads, on the one hand, to poor lighting and, consequently, to a drop in yield, and on the other, to the spread of fungal diseases.
If you grow raspberries in rows, you will definitely need to tie up the stems, otherwise they will begin to bend towards the soil under the weight of berries or wet leaves, and this can lead to breakage of the stem at the base, which is especially common in strong winds. To hold the stems in a vertical position, two or three horizontal trellises made of strong wire or fiberglass cord are pulled, which are secured to stakes driven into the ground at a distance of 2-3 m from each other.

If you make two such fences at a distance of 40 cm from each other on both sides of the plantings, then you don’t have to tie the raspberries to the trellises. If there is only one fence, then you will have to tie the stems to each of the horizontal trellises. The fences can be extended to a width of approximately 50-60 cm. Last year's shoots from which we will harvest can be tied to one side, and there will be enough space left for the emerging young shoots. It will not be shaded by fruiting branches. As they grow, young shoots should be tied to the trellises of the second fence. This way you will separate last year's and young shoots. This makes caring for plants much easier.
To prevent raspberries from creeping out of the designated area, you must either dig slate to a depth of 30 cm and limit the plantings on both sides, or every spring and autumn cut boundary lines along the plantings using a spade bayonet. But you can do it differently - leave a turf about 40 cm wide on each side along the raspberry plantings, on which you constantly walk, trampling the grass. Raspberries do not like dense soil and will not spread their roots to a trampled area.
If, nevertheless, the growth appears in the wrong place, it should be removed by cutting it with a sharp shovel and tearing it out by the roots. It is useless to cut raspberry shoots with pruning shears, as they will grow even thicker.
Raspberries go well with apple, pear, and plum trees, but they cannot tolerate cherries at all: even when planted 2-3 m from them, raspberries begin to wither, become stunted, and bear fruit poorly. Raspberries should not be planted close to sea buckthorn and black currant, since all these plants have roots in the same layer of soil. The sea buckthorn will gradually drive the raspberries out of their place, and the raspberries will sprout in the middle of the blackcurrant bushes, suppressing the latter.
You can’t plant raspberries next to strawberries, and not only because their roots are located at the same depth, but also because they have common diseases and pests. It is not recommended to plant a raspberry plantation near tomatoes and potatoes.
With any planting method, raspberries should not be kept in one place for more than 8-10 years.

Raspberry pruning

A biological feature of raspberries is the death of two-year-old fruit-bearing shoots. They are cut out immediately after harvesting. Moreover, as low as possible, without leaving stumps.
At the same time, weak, diseased, broken annual shoots are cut out. It is considered the norm to leave 8-12 shoots per 1 linear meter for fruiting next year. plantings. All cut branches must be removed from the site and burned. For varieties with tall shoots and a leaning top, supports are needed, the type of which depends on the planting method.
In early spring, the underdeveloped tops of shoots left for fruiting are shortened by 10-20 cm to a well-developed bud.

Raspberry shelter

Due to late flowering, raspberries are not afraid of spring frosts, but in winter they sometimes freeze. The best protection against frost, temperature changes and winds is a snowdrift. Therefore, in September - October, while the stems retain their flexibility, they are bent down, positioned at a height of 30-40 cm from the surface. Falling snow covers the stems, protecting them from low temperatures, wind, and sunlight. If there is not enough snow, it is collected from paths, free areas of the garden and sprinkled with raspberries. To prevent it from “flowing” with drifting snow on the crust, the latter must be disturbed by wandering through open areas of the garden (preferably with a wooden rake). The crust must also be destroyed so that when the snowdrift settles, the stems are not damaged. In February-March, the bent stems emerging from under the snow must immediately be covered again to protect them from the effects of scorching sun rays. The shoots of winter-hardy varieties are not bent down or covered with snow, but they must be tied in the form of a dense sheaf around a stake so that they are not blown around by the wind and the tissue does not dry out. At the end of March - in April, after the snow melts, the stems are freed, allowing them to independently take on a natural semi-vertical position.