It rarely happens that the summer resident is not at fault in this case - as a rule, the owner of the plot himself made mistakes for which the plants pay.

Why do conifers turn yellow in spring?

Take a look at the list of these erroneous activities and check the boxes that correspond to your actions:

1. During planting, a large amount (more than 30-50 g) of mineral fertilizers was added to the planting hole, and the roots were in contact with granules in the soil.


2. After planting, regular watering of the plants was not provided during the season (“planted, watered and forgot”).


3. Pre-winter moisture-recharging irrigation (before the onset of frost), which is vital for coniferous plants, was not carried out, which would have ensured good turgor (filling with moisture) of the needles.


4. Sufficient shading of the needles for the winter was not carried out. The fact is that in February or early spring the sun causes the needles to evaporate moisture, and the roots located in the frozen ground are not able to provide this moisture. Plants simply “burn”, unable to protect themselves from bright rays.


5. Plants were not treated against diseases and pests of pine needles last season and in spring.

What to do if the plants have already turned yellow

If we are talking about small patches of yellow needles in late February-early March, then it is still quite possible to protect the trees with shade materials.

Under no circumstances should you completely cover plants with lutrasil (spunbond). The material itself weakly retains the sun, while the needles continue to actively evaporate moisture, and the “cocoon” creates a greenhouse effect inside, leading to damping off, burning out and, ultimately, yellowing of the needles. Often, under lutrasil, the plant turns more yellow than when not covered.

To effectively protect individual plants from the sun, use burlap and special shade nets that allow the needles to avoid bright rays and allow them to ventilate.

By the way, you should not completely exclude the use of lutrasil. It can be used to make excellent screens that slightly shade plants but do not accumulate moisture.

The simplest option is to throw fabric over the tree only from the south side and secure it in this position with twine or ordinary office staples directly along the branches. The result is that the plant is shaded, but well ventilated.

If the needles turn yellow in April-May

Well, most often this phenomenon is completely reversible and fixable. Do not immediately cut off branches with yellowed needles. Some plants may regrow shoots with young needles (for example, thuja).

Only in cases where the knots have clearly dried out and easily break off with a dry cut, you need to carefully cut them off with a hacksaw or trim them with pruning shears.

So, how can we help the affected conifers?

1. Treat the plants with a mixture of insecticide and fungicide for prevention, because It is difficult for a non-specialist to determine the presence of signs of diseases or pests on a plant.

To do this, add 4 ml of Topaz and 20 ml of Actellik to 10 liters of water (if you don’t find Actellik on sale, you can replace it with Actara or Fufanon). Be sure to add an ampoule of the Zircon drug to the same tank mixture; this is an excellent stimulant that will help plants recover.

2. Water the plants generously, especially if you suspect that you overdid it with mineral fertilizers when planting. After washing the soil, water the conifers again, adding 1 ampoule of Zircon to the water. In this case, it is used as a root stimulant.

3. Do not apply any fertilizers either to the roots or to the needles until new shoots appear.

4. In the morning, evening or on cloudy days, spray the crown with plain water.

5. A week after the first treatment, spray the plants with a solution of Epin-Extra preparations (2 ml per 10 liters of water). This is an excellent anti-stress drug that will help the needles recover.

If you have very alkaline water (produces a lot of scale), then add 1 tsp to a bucket of water before diluting Epin. vinegar (the drug Epin is destroyed in an alkaline environment). Spray in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening 2 times a month until the plant is completely restored.

6. Instead of Epin, you can use another adaptogen - the drug HB-101, this solution is sprayed and watered at the root once a week. Use 2 times a month until the tree is completely restored.

7. As soon as the plant has perked up and new shoots have appeared, in May you can feed it using special fertilizers for conifers. In this case, it is better to give preference to liquid and granular preparations with a long duration of action (POKON, AVA).

8. Regularly water and spray conifers, especially young specimens, and do not make mistakes in the future before preparing them for wintering.

Thuja is an evergreen plant that belongs to the cypress order. This is an ornamental plant that is used for landscaping gardens and personal plots. To have a beautiful, healthy tree on your site, you need to plant it correctly and provide proper care for the thuja.

Instructions

Thuja seedlings are grown in nurseries, from where they are sold to specialized gardening stores. The seedling is sold in a pot, and when purchasing, you should, if possible, inspect its root, the white color of which indicates that the seedling is healthy. Yellow areas of the root indicate that the thuja has been in the pot for more than a year. You should refuse to buy such a seedling.

Thuja loves moist, light soils well saturated with oxygen. This means that the soil into which the seedling will be transplanted must be moist and loose. It is recommended to dig a hole four to five days before planting the tree.

What to do if the flowers are frozen after winter?

Flowers recover in different ways after a harsh winter. Some quickly awaken from dormant buds and manage to bloom in the summer, others get sick and bloom only in the second year, some need to be looked after like babies in order to preserve the variety and sometimes grow the plant again.

How can you tell if flowers are frozen?

Signs that the flowers are frozen include darkened or completely dry stems, easily peeled skin, and damp covering material with a moldy smell.

Roses have clearly visible zones of healthy and frozen branches. They need to be cut back to the healthy green part so that the top bud is not directed into the bush. Roses need to be loosened and fed. Maybe all the branches on the bush have darkened. Carefully rake away the soil at the base of the stems. If the green color is preserved there, then there is hope that roses will grow from dormant buds.

Do the same with clematis. In the spring, frozen vines need to be pruned more than usual to make it easier for the weakened roots to cope with the above-ground thickets.

If May has passed and the lily still does not come out of the ground, then you need to dig it up. Try to dig deeper to avoid damaging the bulb and roots. Bulbs are easily affected by rot. If the bulb is not treated promptly, it may die. Diseased, darkened scales and roots are removed with a sharp knife and sprinkled with crushed charcoal or smeared with brilliant green. In the 2-3rd year, a new bulb will grow from healthy scales and bloom. When most of the bulb is damaged, it is better to plant the scales in a pot with sandy soil.

Only the flower buds of peonies can freeze. This can also happen during spring frosts, when there is no more snow, and the flowers are actively starting to grow. After some time (sometimes in June), new buds awaken, but only leaves grow from them. You need to continue to look after the bush, and next year it will delight you with flowers again. It happens that the peony is seriously damaged. In this case, the bush is dug up and all damaged parts are cut out. Without this procedure, the peony will also eventually grow new leaves and even bloom, but the frozen roots will rot, and the entire flower may die.

Common varieties of irises overwinter well without shelter, but new varieties are not so winter-hardy; it is better to cover them for the winter or at least mulch them like tulips. If the iris is damaged, you can examine its rhizome without digging up the entire flower. The roots of the iris are not deep, you can wash away the soil with a stream of water and remove the soft, darkened parts of the root with a sharp knife, process the cuts and cover them with soil again. If the damage is extensive, then the rhizome is dug up and cut out more thoroughly. It turns out to be several divisions, which are planted, covering them with a layer of only 2-3 cm. With deeper planting, flowering will occur only when the rhizome grows and itself raises flower buds to the surface of the earth.

Delphinium is a very beautiful but delicate plant. If it has suffered from frost, you need to wait until new young shoots grow at the base of the bush. The core is often affected by rot, so when the shoots grow a little, it is better to carefully separate several pieces with part of the root and replant them in another place. The remaining shoots will take less energy from the plant and, perhaps, you will be able to save the entire bush.

Why did the plants freeze? What needs to be fixed to prevent this from happening again next winter?

The covering material must be dry. To do this, you need to fill the bush with sawdust or leaves, and build a reliable “roof” on top from roofing felt, film or bucket so that moisture does not get inside. All this must be pressed down with stones so as not to be blown away by the wind. Mulching material only protects from light frosts. Next, snow plays the role of insulation. At the corner of the house, between buildings, it is often blown away by the wind. At the beginning of winter, you need to come to the garden and see if there are such places on your site. You can hold back the snow using protective shields made of plywood, large tree branches and spruce branches. Sometimes you have to specially add snow.

To have fewer reasons for disappointment, you need to choose flowers that winter well in our conditions. The varieties of Dutch selection are excellent, but they are adapted to a milder and more humid climate, so give preference to domestic varieties.

Hope dies last, so don't bury it ahead of time.

We hope that the article helped you understand the issue: What to do if the flowers are frozen after winter?

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It is sad to observe the appearance of browned, yellowed, and covered with a grayish coating of evergreen thuja branches. Why did the thuja turn yellow after winter and what to do. A gardener or owner of a plot where a tree grows should take responsibility for the manifestation of a painful condition in the spring or autumn of the year. The article provides information about what could cause the yellowing of the thuja and how you can help the tree regain its strength and restore its former beauty. It will help you to familiarize yourself with the material in more detail. video, which is at the end of the article.

Natural causes of yellowing of thuja

Loss of decorativeness and yellowing of thuja branches occurs due to a number of reasons. This condition is typical for plants that do not receive proper care; a nutrient deficiency develops in the soil and problems appear with the root system. The plant may have an unsightly appearance when it suffers from disease or pests, and improper planting of thuja in open ground can also have a negative impact.

Healthy ! In autumn, thuja needles may turn yellow for a natural reason - due to the loss of chlorophyll, which provides nutrition to the needles.

The needles turn yellow, dry out and die, after which new young needles appear in the same place. This process occurs with the plant every 3-6 years and is the natural life cycle of the thuja.

Thuja has yellowing needles is associated with a natural protective reaction to cold weather in the autumn, after which the branches become green again.

The article below provides a description of each reason why twigs thujas turned yellow after winter or at other times of the year. Information is also provided on the measures that need to be taken to save and restore the decorative appearance of the plant.

Important! Despite the reason why the top of the thuja has turned yellow, and the needles have dried, the affected areas should be cut out. It is necessary to remove only the dried needles of the plant, since the branches may still be covered with fresh greenery. It is not recommended to leave yellow needles on the plant, as this may lead to the death of the tree.

Causes, why did the thuja turn yellow and what to do

Recommendation! Every spring, preventive treatment of thuja should be carried out with a growth stimulator; you can use Epin or Zircon. This procedure must also be carried out if the plant has been damaged by sunlight and received burns.

You can rid the plant of a fungal disease using a foundation solution. To prepare it, you need to take the drug in a proportion of 10 grams per 10 liters of water. It is recommended to process thuja for the first time immediately after planting. The procedure must be repeated further for preventive purposes.

Advice! If branches are infected with a fungus, the shoot should be pruned 3 cm above the site of infection. After which the cut must be treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.

1. Arborvitae that have recently been planted are at high risk of becoming infected with brown schute immediately after winter when the snow melts. The disease is manifested by a change in the color of the needles to brown, subsequently the branches become covered with a gray-black coating. Therefore, in early spring, the plant should be treated with phytosporin for preventive purposes.

Watch the video! Why does thuja dry up in the spring? What to do in this case?

Pests of thuja

1. Some types of mites that settle on tree needles can only be seen with a magnifying glass. If small red insects are noticeable on the shoots, then we can say with confidence that the plant is affected by mites. You can get rid of pests by spraying the needles with Fufanon or Actellik.
2. In the spring, the needles can acquire a reddish-brown tint and even become covered with a grayish coating when they are attacked by sucking insects, such as thuja aphids, thuja false scale insects, mealy worms, moths, moths, and juniper scale insects.

In order to rid the plant of these pests, thuja should be treated with karbofos in the spring.

Then in the summer, as a preventive measure, spray with Rogor or Actellik. Abiga-Pik is also suitable for these purposes.

1. Also, the plant may be susceptible to attacks by leaf roller larvae, which provoke yellowing of the needles due to the fact that they form cocoons on the shoots.
2. Mayfly bagworm caterpillars eat greens.
3. Weevils also cause significant harm to the plant, as they gnaw and damage the bark and needles of the thuja.
4. The thuja pine beetle, similar to the spruce pine beetle, makes holes in tree trunks, causing significant damage to the tree.

In order to get rid of these pests, you should spray the conifers in late spring - early summer. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following medications: Fufanon, Actellik, Confidor.

Treatment that will eliminate pests should be carried out 2-3 times a month, maintaining an interval of 1 week. It is best to spray in the morning or evening. You should also be careful about safety precautions when spraying. This operation should be carried out in a special protective suit and a mask with a carbon filter.

Both homemade and purchased fertilizers can be used as fertilizing. Cattle manure or bird droppings are used as organic fertilizer.

You can prepare a treatment solution from manure, which requires dissolving 2 kg of manure in 10 liters of water, and then storing the resulting composition in a dark and warm place for 14 days. After which the solution must be diluted with water again. It is recommended to water each tree with the resulting liquid, pouring the product to the very root

Conclusion

Yellowing of thuja needles can be associated with several of the most serious reasons, such as: improper care of the plant, attacks by viruses and insects, and a natural age-related reaction. The tips presented in the article will definitely help you cope with all the ailments that the tree suffers from.

Watch the video! Why does the thuja turn yellow and how to save it?

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Thuja is one of the favorite and sought-after exotic plants. Owners of personal plots and landscape designers will certainly take advantage of the beauty of the green beauty. It is planted in individual specimens or in whole groups. From thuja plantings you can make a hedge that will stand in an even column both in summer and winter.

But sometimes gardeners notice that the thuja has turned yellow after winter. What to do in this case, is it possible to save this plant and why does this happen?

This is a very unpleasant problem - yellowing of the needles on the thuja. Almost all gardeners encounter it. The needles become brown or brown, with a yellowish tint. Then it crumbles and, eventually, the tree itself may die.

But do not confuse a diseased plant with a normal change in the color of the needles. This happens at the end of autumn, with the onset of cold weather. Then the thujas change their color and become dark brown. This is a common reaction to changes in temperature, colder.

There are several reasons for the death of needles on thujas:

• Most often, the needles change their color, getting burned under the rays of the spring sun. This happens in the first days of spring. When the snow doesn’t even think of melting and spreading across the ground in an even cover. The sun, at this time, shines stronger and brighter. The rays, bouncing off the snow, become much hotter. And the needles, which have not yet become stronger from frost, are very tender and vulnerable. Therefore, especially at noon, there is the greatest likelihood of getting spring burns.
• The second reason, no less important, is an incorrectly planted tree. That is, the depth of the hole was made inaccurately when planting the tree. Very often, without sufficient experience, the root is either buried too deeply in the ground. Or, on the contrary, the neck of the root is located entirely on top, above ground level. This is a common mistake that everyone should be aware of and take into account when planting thuja. Otherwise, the tree will get sick, develop poorly, and ultimately die completely.
• Another reason why the thuja turns yellow is the infestation of the tree by aphids. This harmful, microscopic insect sucks out all the juices from it, including pine needles. As a result, the needles lose color and crumble. In some cases, the thuja dries out completely.
• Almost all coniferous plants are susceptible to diseases such as fungi. And thuja is no exception. Affected leaves and twigs immediately lose their color and fall off profusely.

What to do if the thuja turns yellow

First of all, when planting this tree, you need to make sure that the hole for it is dug to the required depth. The neck of the root should be located strictly at ground level. And the root system itself is comfortably laid when planting, not crushed or bent.

When planting thuja on the south side, experienced gardeners strongly recommend shading. This can be either some kind of building, household. construction You can make a canopy for the tree with your own hands until it gets stronger.

Secondly, thujas, especially young ones, need to be prepared for wintering. To do this, they are wrapped in special material. It must be light and breathable.

Mature and strong trees can withstand all the vagaries of the weather. But we must also take into account the factor of heavy snowfall. A snow cap can break already mature branches. To avoid such injury, gardeners, armed with twine, simply tie them closer to the trunk.

Some people practice covering the too-sunny sides with spruce branches in the spring. Or they build structures to make a shade for the thuja.

If the cause is sunburn, then in the spring and summer, by properly watering and caring for the tree, new needles will grow.

You can save yourself from fungal diseases with a foundation solution. It is diluted in the ratio of one bucket of water (10 liters) - add 10 grams. drug. Immediately after planting, the tree is processed for the first time. Then, for preventive purposes, the procedure is repeated regularly.

If the fungus has infected the entire branch, cut it three cm above the infected area. The cut is treated with copper sulfate, a 5 percent solution.

In early spring and before the onset of the first frost, thujas are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. This method of treatment will help prevent the appearance of fungus.

Only treating wood with special commercial preparations can save you from aphids.

How to prevent thuja diseases

Only the planted tree is shaded until it takes root and gets stronger. The soil around the thuja must be mulched. To do this, use sawdust, compost or peat. Everything is poured in a circle to the height of a matchbox, no higher is needed. In cold weather, the root will be protected from frost. In summer, moisture is retained at the roots longer.

Proper watering is an important procedure when growing thuja so that it does not turn yellow. Only the planted tree is watered once every seven days. 10 liters of water per seedling is enough. If it's too hot outside, you should water it twice a week. And so on for one month.

In the hot summer months, the tree is regularly bathed, in the morning or evening, by spraying it with a hose. But you shouldn’t do this during the day, otherwise burns are guaranteed.

In arid regions, the following method is used to maintain moisture in the soil. You need to take moss and soil (in a 1:1 ratio), chop everything up thoroughly with a shovel and sprinkle the resulting mass around the tree.

We should not forget about feeding. After all, a lack of minerals will definitely lead to illness. The needles will fade and eventually fall off completely.

It is important to know that thuja is fed only from early spring until the end of summer. This cannot be done in autumn and winter. The tree enters a dormant phase that should not be disturbed.

For feeding, store-bought and homemade fertilizers are used. Cattle manure or bird droppings are used as organic matter.

You need to take 10 liters of water and add 2 kg to them. manure All this is stirred and put away in a dark and warm place for 14 days. Afterwards, it is diluted with water again and watered to the very root of each tree. The ground around the thuja is also fertilized, and the larger the tree, the larger the diameter it is processed.

Mineral fertilizers can be purchased at any specialized store. They fertilize trees three times during the spring-summer season. “Idol-universal”, “Epina”, “Bioud” are often used.

Now you know what to do if the thuja suddenly turns yellow after winter. Be attentive to your seedlings, and in gratitude they will decorate your site.

Juniper is an evergreen plant that belongs to the Cypress family. Another name for it is veres. Most varieties are winter-hardy, tolerate drought and are undemanding to soil. However, juniper is not an unpretentious plant: due to its characteristics, it is quite capricious and requires special care and growing conditions. One of the reasons for yellowing needles after winter may be improper care. Periodic inspection, preventive measures, loosening the soil and shelter from the scorching spring sun will help you avoid problems.

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Causes of yellowing needles

The reasons for the drying out of heather needles can be:

• physiological factors (spring sunburn);
• sucking and pine-eating pests;
• diseases.

Despite its winter hardiness, the plant suffers from spring burns, so by spring it looks painful and has “burnt” needles, which subsequently fall off. At the same time, the decorative value of the bush is reduced. Common and Chinese juniper varieties are especially susceptible to this phenomenon.

In most regions, the intensity of solar activity increases from February to March. Photosynthesis begins in the needles (especially on the south side). In this case, the plant needs a certain amount of moisture, but during this period the frozen soil is not yet ready to provide the plants with it in sufficient quantities. Intracellular fluid is involved in the process of photosynthesis, as a result the needles dry out and turn yellow. This phenomenon is usually called physiological dryness.

There are two ways to solve the problem:

1. 1. Shading the plant in February-March with burlap or other covering material.
2. 2. Warming the soil by pouring warm water over it.

Winter shelter for coniferous plants

Juniper suffers from the weight of the snow cover. In frosty times, under the weight of snow, the branches become brittle, which subsequently also causes dryness of the needles. To avoid yellowing, it is necessary to tie up the vertical varieties for the winter, and periodically shake off the snow from the horizontal ones.

It is not recommended to use materials such as lutrasil, agroterm or spunbond to cover conifers for the winter. They let the sun's rays through and accumulate moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles due to frost and sunburn.



Pests and control methods

Juniper is able to repel insects thanks to the phytoncides with which it saturates the air. However, young shoots and cones of the plant suffer from pest invasion. The following pests pose a danger to heather:

• sucking (juniper aphids, spruce spider mites, rounded scutes, galls);
• needle-eaters (juniper sawfly, pine moth, shoot moth caterpillars).

In addition, pests always choose sick and weakened plants. Therefore, it is important to carry out proper care and apply fertilizers in a timely manner.

Control measures are presented in the table:

Pest	What harm does	How to fight
Juniper aphid	The growth of young plants slows down and the leaves dry out: they turn yellow and begin to curl as aphids suck out the juice	The spread of aphids is facilitated by ants that “graze” aphids. But dTo protect the plant, ants should be prevented from spreading. To combat aphids you need: 1. Wash the branches with soap or cold water. If soapy water is used, the soil in the root zone should be covered. 2. Cut off shoots with colonies of pests. 3. Repeat the procedure of washing the branches after 6-10 days
Spider mite	The needles turn yellow, brown spots and thin cobwebs appear on it. Then the needles darken and fall off	For prevention, optimal humidity is necessary. Juniper needs to be periodically sprayed with water to maintain its level. If cobwebs appear on the branches, treatment with colloidal sulfur or infusions of garlic and dandelion should be applied.
Shchitovka	The needles turn yellow and fall off in early summer. The bark dies, the shoots dry out and bend, the number of annual growth decreases	In early spring, install traps for larvae in the form of a cuff on the juniper stem, onto which caterpillar glue should be applied. Cuffs can be made from straw, burlap and packaging cardboard. If the larvae do penetrate the branches, you need to carefully clean them off with a knife or toothbrush. In cases where there are large numbers of insects, insecticides will need to be applied.
Gall midges	The bark cracks and the needles turn yellow, as the larvae are able to eat heather	1. Cut off branches with galls and burn them. 2. Treat with insecticides
Juniper sawfly	The needles and shoots are damaged, as the larvae (false caterpillars) eat away the internal tissues	Sawfly larvae live in the soil. To combat its spread you need to: 1. Periodically dig up tree trunk circles and destroy nesting sites of the pest. 2. Spray the plant with karbofos or an infusion of plants with an insecticidal effect
Pine moth	The bush loses its strength and lushness, as sawflies, known for their gluttony, feed on needles and young shoots	The appearance of purple butterflies over juniper bushes requires immediate measures to combat them. If nothing is done, caterpillars with a dark red head will soon appear on the branches of the plant. In autumn they go into the soil. To fight moth you need: 1. Dig up the tree trunk circles. 2. In early spring and when young shoots appear, spray the plants with enteric-contact insecticides
Shoot moth caterpillars	Juniper grows poorly, the leaves turn yellow as caterpillars eat away young shoots	1. Collect and destroy spider nests. 2. Treat the shrub with oil-based insecticides



Diseases and treatment

A change in the color of the needles is noted when the heather is affected by various diseases. Yellowing of juniper and drying of leaves is observed with the following diseases:

• Schutte;
• rust;



Schutte



Schutte disease

The name of the disease comes from the German word “schutten” - “to crumble”. The causative agent is a fungus. The first sign of the disease is yellowing of the needles, which is followed by death and falling off. At the beginning of summer, characteristic round black spores appear on the leaves. In advanced cases, the needles become yellow-brown. Schutte disease affects weakened plants growing in soils with high humidity.

Affected needles must be removed and burned. Fungicides are used to combat the disease. For prevention, spraying is carried out in spring and autumn.

Rust



Juniper rust

Rust is another common fungal infection of juniper. It is caused by basidiomycetes. Bright yellow growths appear on the needles. The disease is noticeable only in the second year of reproduction of pathogenic fungi. The spores of the pathogen are spread by the wind: they fall on the foliage of apple, rowan, hawthorn and pear trees, and barely noticeable tubercles form on the leaves. After ripening, the spores spill out and fall on coniferous plants.

Effective treatment will require removing one of the affected neighboring trees. Diseased heather branches need to be cut off and the plant treated with immunostimulants. To prevent rust, it is not recommended to plant juniper near deciduous plants (apple trees, pear trees, rowan trees, etc.).



drying out of branches affected by fungus

In addition, the cause of drying out of juniper branches is often fungal diseases that become active in the spring. Characteristic signs of the disease are yellowing of the needles, shedding and the appearance of small dark spores on the bark after winter. The fight against the disease consists of cutting off the affected branches and part of the bark. The cut areas are treated with copper sulfate, and the plant is sprayed with fungicides. For prevention, spraying can be carried out in early spring and autumn.

The following composition effectively fights fungal diseases: 1 ampoule of epin and zircon per 5 liters of water. This product can be sprayed on plants at intervals of several days.

Cancers

Nectria or Biatorella canker can lead to plant death. The causative agent is fungi that invade the juniper bark. Signs of cancer:

• Biatorella: cracking of the bark and change in its color, then the formation of longitudinal ulcers and death of the bark.
• Nectria: the appearance of brick-red pads up to 2 mm in diameter on the trunk, which subsequently darken and dry out.



Biatorella cancer



Nectria cancer

With cancer, the foliage dries out and dies. Nectria cancer is caused by dense plantings, and biatorella cancer is caused by mechanical damage to the branches. If the disease has affected more than half of the plant, then it will have to be destroyed and the place disinfected.

Treatment of cancerous lesions consists of removing the affected areas and treating them with Vector, Skor or Tilt. For prevention, spraying should be done twice a year with Bordeaux mixture or phytosporin.

Errors during planting and care

The cause of yellowing of needles can be not only pathogenic lesions and pests, but also violations of planting and care rules. The most common mistake gardeners make is choosing the wrong planting site and soil. Juniper prefers partial shade; you should not choose sunny places for it.

It happens that the juniper turns yellow due to drying of the roots. To avoid this, you can build a so-called drainage in the planting hole: put several stones on the bottom and fill it with a peat mixture with sand and clay.

If the heather turns yellow due to high moisture content in the soil, the plant must be transplanted to another location, having previously treated the healthy roots with Kornevin. Rotten areas of roots should be removed. The roots should not be allowed to dry out or become overly wet.