Chimney shape for a sauna stove. Installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through a wall

Our bathhouse is associated with light steam and the pleasant crackling of wood in the stove, hot stones in the heater and the smell of a freshly brewed broom. But a live fire is associated with smoke, and if the chimney is not made correctly, you can get carbon monoxide poisoning in 20–30 minutes. The pipe in the bathhouse is planned before the construction of the bathhouse; it must be assembled efficiently and correctly. This is the only way the bathhouse will be safe and will not cause harm to its owners. We will tell our readers how to remove a pipe in a bathhouse with your own hands, what features and subtleties you need to know.

The pipe in the bathhouse is removed in two ways: inside and outside the structure.

Planning a chimney in a bathhouse is always associated with the choice of design. It is necessary to understand all types, know how to correctly calculate the size, display and install. Before drawing up the project, it is necessary to briefly study these aspects.

What pipes are used for baths?

The chimney in a bathhouse can have two devices: external and internal. Each has its positive and negative sides:

External arrangement is less fire hazardous, do-it-yourself installation and fastening is also easier. The disadvantages are that the pipe goes outside and heat loss increases.
The interior arrangement is complex, but all the heat gets into the bathhouse. The main disadvantage is a high degree of fire hazard.

The sandwich pipe is easy to install with your own hands.

Design flaws can be prevented by using high-quality insulation. We advise you not to save on time and effort and install an internal chimney; although it is more difficult to install, it will reduce the cost of heating the steam room structure. For a small bathhouse in a summer cottage, it is easier to remove the external chimney. In any case, the choice is up to the user.

Various materials are used for the chimney: red brick, ceramics or metal. They withstand temperatures above +100 °C and are durable.

It’s easier to buy a ready-made sandwich chimney. It is easy to assemble and install, and the internal asbestos lining makes the device safe.

Design of external and internal chimneys

The design of the chimney is selected depending on the characteristics of the selected stove. The pipe package includes several components, each with its own functional features. For a bathhouse with a brick stove, you can use brick, metal, ceramics, and for a metal stove - a ceramic or metal chimney. You can use brick, but laying the pipe yourself will be difficult. You will have to hire a bricklayer - a stove maker.

The main components of the chimney (design lists start from top to bottom):

Head (probe) - prevents sparks from hitting the roof and neighboring buildings, as well as from flooding during rain.
Master flush.
PPU (Ceiling assembly where it goes through).
Chimney made of double sandwich or brick.
Single iron pipe.

When choosing a brick structure, you need to be prepared for complex cleaning and maintenance. A massive foundation is needed for the stove, since a brick chimney weighs a lot, and the entire load will fall on the stove.

A simpler assembly that does not require special knowledge is a ready-made structure made from sandwich pipes. It consists of a double structure between which asbestos is laid. More heat-saving and lighter. They are made up of individual elements: elbow, deflectors, tees, rain protection, adapters and gate. Fastened using brackets that are mounted with clamps.

What to pay attention to during installation

It is necessary to remove a pipe in a bath taking into account a number of its features (material, design). The installation is influenced by sanitary and environmental standards, the material from which the bathhouse was built. Do not forget that traditionally this is a tree.

Compliance with certain rules and regulations will make the structure reliable and safe:

Any one must be insulated with environmentally friendly and non-flammable material: expanded clay, asbestos, stone wool.
Thermal insulation of the place where the chimney passes is necessary only with foil material. It is often confused with materials covered with Dacron foil, but it is highly flammable and melts at temperatures above 300 °C.
The chimney is installed so that the structure does not touch any wooden elements: floor beams, roof, walls. To insulate the joints, they are sheathed with metal sheets. The outlet area can only be insulated with non-flammable mineral wool or expanded clay mound.
Inside the ceilings you need to install a special iron box, into which the structure is placed and covered with expanded clay. There is no need to make a box for the sandwich.
On top, to avoid contact with the roof, a casing of metal sheets is made around it.
All joints and seams can be sealed with special iron foil tape or foil.

How to choose the size and shape of a chimney

Diagram of the pipe outlet in the bathhouse.

When designing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to adhere to the standard shape and size. The best option is a cylindrical shape. The simple shape is due to the fact that any bend in the elbow will additionally create areas for the accumulation of ash and soot; the structure will have to be cleaned frequently. And cleaning a structure with numerous bends is more difficult.

The main dimensions that need to be determined are the diameter and height of the structure. They must be taken from SNiP.

Bath pipe diameter

The power and choice of stove are directly related to the choice of diameter and height of the chimney. Here are some values for a rectangular and square chimney in the form of a table:

Furnace power, kW	Chimney diameter, mm
Up to 3.5	140x140
3,5–5,2	140x200
5,2–7,2	140x270

For a round stove, the diameter of the chimney is taken equal to or greater than the outlet of the stove. In order to calculate the diameter, you need to know the formula, which stipulates that for 1 kW of stove power, take at least 8 m2 of pipe. So, for a 20 kW stove, the chimney area will be at least 160 m2. It is at least 14 cm in diameter.

Bathhouse chimney height

The height is calculated depending on the type and height of the roof ridge. Neighboring buildings must also be taken into account, especially if the bathhouse is attached to the main house. According to SNiP, the height of the bath chimney must correspond to the indicators indicated in the table:

For a flat roof, the height of the bathhouse chimney must be at least 1 m. For a high pipe (more than 1.5 m), it is necessary to install special guys, they will strengthen the structure.

It is important to take into account the moment of the sloping and horizontal elements of the chimney. A length of more than 1 m is unacceptable. The permissible size will prevent soot from accumulating on the walls of the bathhouse pipe and will not interfere with traction.

DIY chimney installation

Before work, you must purchase all the necessary materials and components. All work takes place in stages: preparing holes for the pipe outlet, installing a protective box, assembling the pipe.

Preparing holes for pipe outlets

Do not install a pipe with too many bends.

It is better to make holes in a new bathhouse under construction at the stage of assembling the floors and roof. In an already assembled structure, you will have to do it from scratch. If installation is chosen inside the bathhouse, then holes are cut out in the ceiling and roof; the external one is provided in the wall near the bathhouse stove.

The holes must be sheathed on both sides with sheets of metal 0.5 mm thick. They will protect the surface from fire. The holes are made with a square section of 450x450 mm. Dimensions depend on the sandwich pipe adapter. For a brick chimney, the size of the hole must be equal to the specified width of the chimney masonry. More information about how to properly make a hole in the ceiling of a bathhouse is described in the video:

Manufacturing and installation of a protective box

Factory-made protective box for a sandwich pipe.

You can make an adapter for a metal and sandwich pipe with your own hands: Take 2 metal sheets measuring 50x50 cm and cut out an outlet for the pipe in the middle. A box is made from 4 sheets, which is connected by welding. The box is insulated with stone or basalt mineral wool and covered with metal foil. A pipe will be inserted into it, it will protect the ceilings from heating.

Next, attach a metal protective apron to the roof. You can buy it ready-made “Flash Master”. The box is installed in place between the ceiling transitions and screwed in place. There is no need to make a metal protective box for a brick pipe. Next, a chimney is installed.

Installation of a chimney

The assembly of the pipe in the bathhouse must be completed by installing an anti-rain fungus.

To attach the pipe, you need to drill places for fastenings opposite the chimney outlet hole. The sandwich pipe is made in such a way that all parts are simply installed into each other.

First, the first link from the stove, 50 cm long, is mounted. It is fixed into the prepared holes using metal fasteners to the wall and the stove. Next, the second link is brought out into a metal box. If the diameter of the second link is smaller than the outlet of the first, then use a special adapter.

Having installed the second link, the box is filled with expanded clay into the adapter. If the stove is not located strictly under the hole in the ceiling, then use an elbow. You should not use more than three elbows in one pipe design; soot and soot will accumulate in the bathhouse pipe.

A fungus is mounted on top of the pipe; you can make it yourself from a sheet of metal or an old tin can. It's easier to buy ready-made.

The outer pipe is assembled with one difference: first the elbow is mounted to the wall and only then the main structure. A transition box, insulated and filled with expanded clay, is placed in the wall in the same way. The main pipe goes out from the box to the street. On the outside of the bathhouse, a tee is attached to the pipe, where an inspection with a window is located. They will help clean the building from soot. All parts of the pipe from the outside are attached to the wall in stages. On the façade of the bathhouse, you can only use a double sandwich structure, and only a single one on top of the roof. The wall under the pipe is insulated with metal or asbestos material.

There is no need to rush to assemble the pipe; it is better to carefully secure each link. How fireproof the bathhouse will be depends on how well the bathhouse pipe is installed. The safety of not only the wooden walls and passages of the bathhouse, but also the safety of the people who will use the building is important. You should not skimp on insulation; it is better to make it high quality from expensive material. This is the only way the steam will be light and the sauna safe.

To ensure that bath procedures are not marred by the periodic appearance of carbon monoxide in the washing compartment, you need a good pipe made in accordance with all technologies and standards to remove combustion products. They are laid in the ceiling space, which is not very convenient, or through the wall. The second option is more profitable.

It is easier to do because furnaces are usually located near the walls, so it will be easier to route the line outside.

The figure shows a diagram of the correct location of the chimney through the wall. The pipe must be higher than the roof level.

Two chimney outlet options

According to the design component, the chimney in the bathhouse is made in two versions: internal or external. In certain situations, each type works in its own way and before installation it is necessary to choose the right type. The simplest and most suitable for all operating conditions is considered to be an internal chimney mounted on any selected sauna stove. It is easier to install and insulate. But at the same time, it is more fire hazardous. The external option for organizing a chimney is more difficult to install, but easier to operate and has no complaints from the fire service. But it is more difficult to insulate, and it is not compatible with all stove models.

Materials for the device

The main criterion according to which the type of chimney is determined. The internal chimney is usually laid directly from the stove, through the ceiling and made of brick. This is a complex job, accompanied by associated processes of dismantling partitions, laying through ceilings and roofing structures. You can make an internal chimney from galvanized pipes. But the complexity of the process is reduced slightly.

The external chimney is discharged from the stove through the wall ceilings and rises above the roof structure. Installation is not burdened with any special difficulties, and it can be done in any wall of a brick building or a bathhouse made of timber. In addition to the basic materials, the following auxiliary mechanisms will be required:

clamps and corners:
several transition elbows of 45 degrees;
brackets for supports;
asbestos sheet;
ceramic adapter;
fasteners, bolts and nuts.

The set may vary depending on the material chosen for making the chimney.

Correct diagram of the chimney outlet through the walls. The distance from the stove should be minimal.

Chimney parameters for a bathhouse

Before starting work, you need to correctly calculate the output power of the sauna stove and select a pipe of the appropriate diameter for it. An outlet that is too wide will expel heat along with smoke. At the same time, the narrow diameter will not cope with its work and smoke will leak into the steam room or washing compartment. Inconveniences will also be created by additional partitions in the bathhouse, through which pipes will have to be laid. Extra meters and bends around the walls reduce traction.

The straight type of chimney has a minimum of bends, but it is not effective in terms of heat preservation. If you lay a complex pipeline, there is a possibility that it will not properly remove combustion products. We need to find a middle ground. It is better to make horizontal outlet intervals no longer than 1 meter and not get carried away with a large number of transitions and bends. Maximum of 3-4 inserts with changes in direction.

The size of the pipe coming out of the wall upward should be larger than the draft channel from the furnace. This design will better remove condensate and will not allow it to linger on the walls. The transitions are not too steep, at an angle of 45 degrees. In such connections, soot will not accumulate, preventing the constant flow of smoke. When the outer walls of the bathhouse are covered with siding, you need to think about additional insulation if the chimney is equipped with a straight line. The pipe will heat up at the outlet and melt the casing. If a multi-stage chimney is equipped, then insulation is used at discretion.

Sandwich pipes for installation of chimneys. Internal insulation improves thermal performance.

Let's figure out the size of the pipes

The thickness of the material from which the chimney stages are made should not be less than 2 mm. They are more reliable and will last longer. Material galvanized or stainless steel. Sandwich pipes have become very popular today. Inside a regular pipe there is another one, and in the space between them there is basalt wool. This is additional insulation that protects the chimney from fire and serves as insulation. According to the complex design, the outer and inner diameter have undergone changes. Therefore, you need to calculate your choice in advance, taking them into account. Let’s say the outlet from the stove is 15 cm; if you purchase a regular chimney, the internal diameter will not change, but in a sandwich pipe it will be smaller. It is necessary to take this into account and purchase adapters. In general, such pipes are excellent for log baths when additional insulation at the outlet is needed.

Such chimneys are expensive, and if you need to save money, you can use the conventional option and insulate the connection yourself. For this purpose, special casings are sold, inside which an additional layer of asbestos sheet or other thermal protective material is laid. For reliability, you can line the area with ceramic bricks at the exit from the wall. But this work is more labor-intensive and you will have to make a larger opening in the wall.

Attaching a bracket for installing a chimney to the wall of a bathhouse from the outside.

Installation of a chimney

The process begins from the combustion source, that is, from the sauna stove. A metal pipe is removed from it at a distance of about one meter, only after which it will be possible to connect galvanized pipes. Follow the rule for pipe connections: each subsequent elbow must be inserted inside the previous one. This creates a smooth transition from each segment, without obstruction to the escaping smoke.

Follow the recommended location of the outlet along the walls in a frame bathhouse and other wooden buildings. This distance should not be less than half a meter. Plan your route according to these dimensions. In addition, the walls along the chimney are covered with an iron sheet, with materials not subject to smoldering or burning placed underneath it. The joints of the knees are treated with heat-resistant sealants. If the bend at the outlet of the furnace is more than two meters, a metal support is installed under it. It is mounted to the floor or wall, depending on the route of the highway. Outside the bathhouse, on the wall, fasteners are also installed every 1.5 meters.

The figure shows an insulating box mounted in wooden walls. Thermal insulating materials are placed inside it.

Try to use flammable materials to a minimum; there are many options on sale that can replace them.
A chimney deflector will increase the efficiency and efficiency of work. It is a good help if it is not possible to use wide-diameter pipes to increase traction.
Do not neglect additional insulation if a conventional exhaust line is used. This reduces the warm-up time and reduces the formation of condensation on the internal walls, which contributes to the settling of burning on them.
At the outlet of the furnace, the pipe is more susceptible to contamination, so it is necessary to install a small door for periodic cleaning.

In general, there should not be any special problems with the installation of the chimney. If you plan its location at the design stage, you can radically change the time spent and reduce the cost of purchasing additional materials.

It is easier to do because furnaces are usually located near the walls, so it will be easier to route the line outside.

The figure shows a diagram of the correct location of the chimney through the wall. The pipe must be higher than the roof level.

Two chimney outlet options

According to the design component, the chimney in the bathhouse is made in two versions: internal or external. In certain situations, each type works in its own way and before installation it is necessary to choose the right type. The simplest and most suitable for all operating conditions is the internal chimney, mounted on any selected sauna stove. It is easier to install and insulate. But at the same time, it is more fire hazardous. The external option for organizing a chimney is more difficult to install, but easier to operate and has no complaints from the fire service. But it is more difficult to insulate, and it is not compatible with all stove models.

Materials for the device

clamps and corners:
several transition elbows of 45 degrees;
brackets for supports;
asbestos sheet;
ceramic adapter;
fasteners, bolts and nuts.

The set may vary depending on the material chosen for making the chimney.

Correct diagram of the chimney outlet through the walls. The distance from the stove should be minimal.

Chimney parameters for a bathhouse

The size of the pipe coming out of the wall upward should be larger than the draft channel from the furnace. This design will better remove condensate and will not allow it to linger on the walls. The transitions are not too steep, at an angle of 45 degrees. In such connections, soot will not accumulate, preventing the constant flow of smoke. When the outer walls of the bathhouse are covered with siding, it is necessary to think about additional insulation if the chimney is equipped with a straight line. The pipe will heat up at the outlet and melt the casing. If a multi-stage chimney is equipped, then insulation is used at discretion.

Sandwich pipes for installation of chimneys. Internal insulation improves thermal performance.

Let's figure out the size of the pipes

The thickness of the material from which the chimney stages are made should not be less than 2 mm. They are more reliable and will last longer. Material galvanized or stainless steel. Sandwich pipes have become very popular today. Inside a regular pipe there is another one, and in the space between them there is basalt wool. This is additional insulation that protects the chimney from fire and serves as insulation. According to the complex design, the outer and inner diameter have undergone changes. Therefore, you need to calculate your choice in advance, taking them into account. Let’s say the outlet from the stove is 15 cm; if you purchase a regular chimney, the internal diameter will not change, but in a sandwich pipe it will be smaller. It is necessary to take this into account and purchase adapters. But in general, such pipes are excellent for log baths when additional insulation at the outlet is needed.

Attaching a bracket for installing a chimney to the wall of a bathhouse from the outside.

Installation of a chimney

The figure shows an insulating box mounted in wooden walls. Thermal insulating materials are placed inside it.

Try to use flammable materials to a minimum; there are many options on sale that can replace them.
A chimney deflector will increase the efficiency and efficiency of work. It is a good help if it is not possible to use wide-diameter pipes to increase traction.
Do not neglect additional insulation if a conventional exhaust line is used. This reduces the warm-up time and reduces the formation of condensation on the internal walls, which contributes to the settling of burning on them.
At the outlet of the furnace, the pipe is more susceptible to contamination, so it is necessary to install a small door for periodic cleaning.

Bathhouse communications, chimney through the wall

Exiting a chimney from a sauna stove through the ceiling and roof is a rather complex and labor-intensive process; it requires careful sealing and waterproofing of the chimney outlet on the roof. Incorrect or poor-quality work can lead to a fire in the transition zone and the accumulation of condensate inside the pipe. For an individual bath, a chimney through the wall is an excellent alternative to a traditional smoke removal system. Its main advantage is ease of installation and high fire safety. However, chimneys passing through wall panels have a number of significant disadvantages due to their contraction:

the stove-heater should be installed in close proximity to the wall (usually the distance is 50-70 centimeters);
when installing a chimney outlet in a bathhouse through the wall, the thermal insulation of the bathhouse is compromised;
the design of the chimney through the wall implies the presence of a horizontal section on which ash and soot accumulate;
in the horizontal passage section there should be no joints, which are concentrators for the formation of soot.

The part of the chimney that exits through the wall and is located outside the bathhouse is called external. In this case, the length of the transition horizontal section should not exceed one meter. Otherwise, the draft will be disrupted and may not be sufficient for the natural removal of fuel combustion products in a sauna stove. If the length of the horizontal section is more than one meter and the draft is insufficient, it will be necessary to provide a forced smoke removal (ventilation) system, which is usually done by installing an additional fan.

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall, any sections of the exhaust pipe that are subject to strong heating must be well insulated and located at a distance of at least 0.5 meters from those elements of the walls and roof that are made of combustible, fire-hazardous materials.

The implementation of this requirement causes particular difficulties when the sauna log house is built from timber or sanded round timber, or has a frame-panel construction.

In wooden bathhouses, to ensure fire safety, the walls provide for the installation of additional heat-reflecting screens or fire-resistant protection, as well as special methods for hanging and fastening horizontal sections. The greatest difficulty is caused by the installation of supporting elements from the outer part of the wall - they must withstand not only the weight of the horizontal section, but also the vertical, exhaust part of the chimney, which must rise above the roof ridge of the bathhouse.

To eliminate the problems described above, some owners of country cottages make a horizontal section from a metal box, which is lightweight, easily thermally insulated and easily interfaces with the stove-stove and the vertical section of the chimney. However, metal has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, which makes it impossible to rigidly install a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall and requires special compensators.

Since in Russia the majority of individual bathhouses built on the territory of private housing construction are constructed from various types of wood materials, the issues of fire safety of the house exhaust pipe and the fire resistance of the passage section of the wall prevail.

Features of installation of a horizontal section

If the horizontal section is made from an industrially manufactured round pipe, then a hole is cut in the wall panel larger than the outer diameter of the horizontal part of the chimney. To thermally insulate a wooden surface, rolled basalt wool is attached to the edges of the hole, the fire resistance of which reaches 800-1000°C. To prevent the wool from falling apart, it is placed in a thin metal casing or reinforced with a fine metal mesh on top. When using a rectangular channel, the measures for organizing fire-safe operation of the chimney are similar, only the hole is cut in a square or rectangular shape with a thermal gap of 4-5 centimeters between the outer surface of the chimney and the edge of the cutout in the wooden wall.

When purchasing a heat-insulating material, you need to pay attention to its fire resistance parameters.

Some mineral wool products (mats) are organically impregnated and are not able to withstand temperatures above 250-300°C. When this value is exceeded, organic matter is destroyed and the heat-insulating material turns into dust, completely losing its properties.

Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse through the wall begins from the heater stove. Those places of the horizontal section that are closest to the wooden wall are covered with heat-insulating material. In addition to increasing fire safety, this operation prevents sudden temperature changes in the outer and inner sections of the chimney, resulting in loss of draft.

In order not to engage in amateur activities, you can purchase a ready-made transition device for the chimney or order it from a repair and construction workshop that installs ventilation and exhaust systems. Typically, the kit includes a horizontal section of the chimney pipe, two flanges (external and internal) and the required amount of heat-insulating material. The cost of the adapter depends on the size and material of manufacture and starts from a thousand rubles. Wall devices of the “N” and “Thermo” categories, included in the “FERRUM” model line, cost 2.2-3.4 thousand rubles. In this case, you can purchase a double-walled sandwich chimney, which has improved thermal insulation properties. If the dimensions of the finished horizontal chimney do not satisfy the user, it can either be cut off or made into a composite of two elements.

How to make a chimney for a bathhouse - a step-by-step installation with your own hands

For quite a long time, stoves were deprived of chimneys, which is why our ancestors had to take bathing procedures “the black way.” Today, such problems do not exist, so being in a steam room brings more positive emotions. Now anyone who has managed to build a bathhouse can install a chimney for a bathhouse, because it is not difficult if all the rules are followed - below, in fact, we will describe how to make a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands - a step-by-step guide is attached.

Installing a chimney in a bathhouse requires special responsibility, because if even one mistake is made, the correct functionality of the bathhouse will be called into question. It is very important to create all conditions under which carbon monoxide would under no circumstances be able to penetrate into the steam room. To do this, before starting work, you should outline a plan, including all stages of construction.

What types of chimneys are there?

A do-it-yourself installed chimney for a bathhouse can be external or internal. In Russia, you can most often find the second option - it fits perfectly into the architectural style of the steam room, and does an excellent job of saving the heat generated by the stove. External chimneys are typically installed on American farms.

The internal type of chimney is good because it has more efficient draft and is easier to maintain. In addition, there is no need to insulate such a chimney.

The external chimney is notable for the fact that there is no need to violate the integrity of the roof; moreover, it is clear that such a design is safer for the bathhouse itself and the visitors inside. The internal brick chimney in the bathhouse must have a wall thickness of at least 12 cm, while the external chimney will require a thickness of more than 38 cm.

Variations and designs of chimneys

It is worth considering the installation of a chimney in a bathhouse for a wood-burning stove. Typically, this design includes pipe, flanges and connecting components. The main thing is that the finished chimney can withstand high temperatures without emitting harmful compounds at this moment.

In order for the chimney located in the wall of the bathhouse to retain as much heat as possible, it should be placed with a shift into the room - then the draft will be as efficient as possible. If for some reason it is not possible to achieve this goal, provide sufficiently thick walls, the width of which is determined based on the ambient temperatures.

For example, if the temperature outside does not drop below -20 °C, then a wall thickness of 38 cm is sufficient, however, if frosts sometimes drop below the above figure, then the thickness will have to be increased to 58-65 cm. Read also: “What types of chimneys are there for sauna stove - types and methods of installation."

If there is more than one stove in the bathhouse, there must be several chimneys to maintain normal draft. Otherwise, a cutting structure is installed at a height of 75 cm. In any case, the inside of the chimney should be as flat as possible so that a minimum of soot accumulates on it.

The simplest chimney design

Installing a chimney in a stainless steel bathhouse is the simplest type of chimney.

For the design you will need:

galvanized elbow 20×120 cm – 1 piece;
galvanized elbow 16×120 cm – 2 pcs;
stainless steel elbow 16×10 cm – 3 pcs;
16 cm tee with plug – 1 piece;
fungus 20 cm – 1 pc.

To understand how to properly make a pipe in a bathhouse, you will need to do the following work. The pipes are fastened using self-tapping screws; a 16 cm hole is made in the slab. At the location where the chimney is installed, within 15 cm, soft roofing material with thermal insulation is temporarily removed from the roof.

The part of the pipe that will protrude onto the street is wrapped with basalt wool and asbestos cord to fill the width of the hole made. Next, put on a pipe lubricated with bitumen mastic, which will be fastened with a 20 cm overlap. At the junction of the pipes, to prevent precipitation from getting inside, an asbestos cord is wound.

Methods for installing chimneys for various stoves

Brick is now increasingly used in the manufacture of chimneys for baths. Although both brick and stainless steel have their own positive and negative qualities, their installation is somewhat different.

Installation of a chimney to a steel stove

Installation of the chimney begins after installing the stove. The process begins with connecting several supports with the gaps necessary to install wider asbestos or sandwich pipes - they have increased fire resistance. Although, it is still undesirable for open fire to fall on them. In this regard, before the first elbow, a steel pipe is installed in the bathhouse, and after that a sandwich pipe is installed.

Lastly, a protective cone from precipitation is installed at the upper end of the chimney. The lower part of the pipe is usually closed with a plug, through which in the future it will be possible to drain the collected condensate and clean the inner surface of the chimney.

Attaching a chimney to a brick stove

The installation diagram for a chimney for a bathhouse on a brick stove is also simple, and all the work can be done with your own hands.

The construction of the chimney begins after laying the last brick row of the stove - often this corresponds to rows 12-19, when the upper level of its side doors is reached.

Somewhere on the 21st row, two channels are created, the size of which is equal to one brick. Then they will be connected into one channel. At this stage, three quarters are added to the right in order to cover the free space above the core. You will get a gap between the main masonry and the core of 2-3 cm.

The voids are filled with mineral wool. The 22nd row will completely cover the core, and you can proceed to shifting the channels to the central part. To prevent cracks from forming on the floor over time, an additional row of brick can be laid above the core.

The chimney is narrowed on the 23rd row. The laying is carried out in fives. At this stage, valves are installed - first one, and the second - through the row. Next, the type of masonry gradually changes to fluff.

When carrying out all the work on installing a bathhouse pipe with your own hands, make sure that no cracks form, as condensation may appear in such places in the future. In addition, do not take pipes with a larger diameter than required, since the gas will not be able to rise at the proper speed and it will cool faster.

Installation of a finished chimney for a bath

Naturally, there are also ready-made chimneys. They are easier to install and require significantly less time. In this case, it is also important to do everything as correctly and efficiently as possible; you should be especially careful if you do all the work without anyone’s help.

Whatever the chimney is, it is installed so that it protrudes beyond the building by exactly half a meter. At the junction of the roof and the pipe, you will need to make an “otter”, thanks to which precipitation will not get inside.

It is worth noting that the appearance of soot on the walls after some time indicates poor installation of the chimney. In this case, it will be necessary to identify any gaps that have appeared and eliminate them as soon as possible.

Cleaning the chimney from dirt

Among other things, you need to provide a list of measures for timely cleaning of the chimney. It is best if this is a mechanical method. For cleaning you will need brushes, a special weight, and even a sledgehammer with a crowbar. This process is very dirty, so it is advisable to take everything you can out of the bathhouse and cover the rest of the things with something, for example, with plastic wrap.

The easiest way to operate is with a brush - it is inserted into the chimney and slowly pushed down and up until the movements begin to become easier.

If you notice that small accumulations of soot have begun to appear on the pipe, they can be removed by burning the stove with aspen wood. During the combustion process, a huge draft arises, carrying the ash outside the chimney. In addition, when aspen burns, intense heat appears, due to which the resins in the pipe instantly burn (read: “How to protect the walls of a bathhouse from the heat of a stove - technologies and materials”). Potato peelings are considered no less effective; the main thing is to prepare them in sufficient quantities.

However, newer cleaning methods using chemicals are becoming increasingly popular. They are also effective in removing all the soot and removing build-up. It is worth noting that it is better to clean the chimney after rain.

So we learned how to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling, with a minimum of effort and time. With proper timely care of the pipes, the firewood will always give out maximum energy, keeping the temperature at the proper level, and delighting you and your loved ones!

Traditional sauna stoves operate on the principle of direct exhaust of combustion products. Carbon monoxide is disposed of through the chimney. Depending on the type of bathhouse and its design features, the installation of the drainage system is carried out in various ways.

Types of chimneys

There's not much to choose from here. Chimneys for a bathhouse are two design solutions: external and internal. As expected, each has its own pros and cons, according to which the option of installing a smoke hood in your bathhouse is selected.

The design of the external chimney is less fire hazardous, easier to install, and mounted on the wall. But due to the fact that it is installed on the outside of the bathhouse, heat losses increase several times. The internal chimney is more advantageous in this regard. All the heat remains in the room, but it is more difficult to install and has a lower fire hazard class.

Fortunately, the disadvantages of both designs are mitigated by thermal insulation. Although this entails additional costs, there is simply no other choice. Something has to be sacrificed. Speaking about choice, most craftsmen agree that an internal chimney is more advantageous in all respects.

It will not be news to anyone that when installing a stove or working with related equipment, it is necessary to comply with fire safety rules. Therefore, think through all your actions one step ahead. By design, chimney pipes come in two types:

nozzles;
indigenous.

The first ones are installed directly above the stove itself and are led out through the ceiling or roof. The second ones are mounted on the side of the heating equipment. The choice of design is made according to your capabilities, and in terms of performance, both types function the same. And before we begin installing the chimney, let’s familiarize ourselves with the main rules:

When installing pipes, do everything as carefully as possible so that all joints are located at the same level, and there are no gaps between them, due to which condensation will form inside the chimney;
the cross-section of the outlet hose must be the same diameter as the outlet on the furnace;
By installing adapters, the draft increases and, as a result, the oven will cool faster.

When connecting pipe bends to lead them through partitions in the bathhouse, this must be done in such a way that the connecting points do not contribute to the accumulation of soot. If possible, purchase a chimney with fewer connections and transitions.

Where is the best place to install the pipe?

Regardless of whether the chimney will be exhausted through a wall or a roof structure, the end part should be located 0.5 meters above the ridge level. When planning an outlet through the roof, purchase a metal adapter. The pipe is installed into it and attached to the roof structure, plugging the cracks. When mounting the outlet through a wooden wall, it is also necessary to install pass-through blocks. In a brick bathhouse, you can discard them and seal the hole with cement. But for aesthetic reasons, you can use a special design here too. At the point where the chimney exits through the ceiling, a hole is made slightly larger than the cross-section of the pipe for laying thermal insulating material.

5 main details in chimney design

The layout of the pipe for discharging combustion products is being worked out at the stage of preparing the construction plan. Proper installation is only half of what you need to do to create a reliable and fire-safe system. In addition, attention is paid to the following details, on which the reliability of operation depends.

Weather and debris protection

The pipe exposed to the street must be firmly attached to the walls, if the plan provides for installation through them or to the roof structure. There are special brackets and node connections for this purpose. Deflectors, weather vanes and mesh will additionally protect it from debris and moisture.

Materials

The main function of the chimney is to remove combustion products. But besides this, the material from which it is made should not emit harmful impurities when heated. In this regard, brickwork is the most attractive. But due to the complexity of making a chimney from stone, many refuse this option. Stainless steel channels are popular. They are environmentally friendly in all respects and comply with fire safety standards.

Size matters

When calculating the diameter of the outlet bend, be guided by the traction power of the stove chosen for the bathhouse. Calculate in advance how many obstacles there will be on the way and their nature. Lifts and bends are highly discouraged and, if possible, model the gasket with the least number of joints and transitions.

Try to make horizontal sections of pipes no more than a meter. Increasing the length will result in a decrease in traction. It will also not be a joy to have to periodically clean the channels from accumulated soot.

Design features

There is no need to get creative when creating an original chimney design. Years of practice have shown that today there is no more effective shape than a cylinder. Various bends and smooth transitions will only contribute to the accumulation of soot and reduce draft in the channel, which is “not good” for a bathhouse.

Insulation

This element in the design of the chimney is especially important. Insulated pipes take longer to cool down, which means the heat from them remains in the room. In addition, protection with insulating materials with additional lining with metal sheets reduces the risk of fire if the pipe passes in close proximity to the wall. More detailed information about thermal insulation materials can be obtained on the website www.heatheat.ru. And in most cases, installation involves almost complete adhesion of the outlets to the partitions in the bathhouse.

Installing a sandwich pipe in a bathhouse

Sandwich chimneys are considered the best option for removing combustion products from stoves, especially in wooden baths. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the installation technology of double-wall chimneys and the features of their designs.

Preparatory work
Installation procedure
Wall mount
Passage through the attic
Roof passage
A sandwich chimney is the simplest option for self-installation of a combustion product exhaust system. Lightweight and compact structural elements are quickly assembled using auxiliary elements. Of course, when assembling a sandwich pipe for a bathhouse, a number of points must be taken into account.

General requirements for a chimney in a bathhouse

The dimensions and design of the chimney in a sandwich pipe bath are influenced by the following requirements:

The optimal length of the pipe from the stove to the fungus on the roof is 5 m.
The pipe is mounted vertically, without ledges. The permissible deviation of the pipe from the vertical is 30 degrees, with a maximum deviation to the side of 1 meter.
If the size from the roof to the pipe head is more than 1.5 m, install a brace to secure the structure.
If the roof is covered with flammable materials, install a spark arrestor mesh with 5x5 mm cells at the end of the pipe.
The pipe on a pitched roof should protrude 50 cm above the ridge. The pipe on a flat roof should be located 1 m above the roof.
The horizontal part of the smoke exhaust duct is up to 1 m.
The joints of pipe elements must remain visible; they are not allowed to be located inside the roof slabs.
It is prohibited to place cleanouts and horizontal outlets in the attic. The pipe in the attic should point upward.

How to choose a sandwich chimney for a bathhouse

A sandwich chimney is made by connecting individual parts of a 1 m long chimney. Each section of the structure consists of three components - an inner and outer pipe with a heat-resistant layer. The chimney also requires fastening elements and auxiliary products. Double-wall chimneys are produced in many designs and differ in their parameters - diameters, type of insulator and its thickness, pipe material, etc. To avoid mistakes when choosing sandwich pipe elements, use the recommendations.

Determining the cross-section of a chimney for a bathhouse

The chimney must have the same cross-section as the outlet flange of the stove. If necessary, you can determine the cross-section of the pipe for the furnace by calculation using the requirements of SNIP:

For a 3.5 kW boiler, pipes with a cross section of 0.14x0.14 m are used.
For a boiler with a power of 3.5–5.2 kW - 0.14x0.2 m.
For a boiler with a power of 5.2-7 kW - 0.14x0.27 m.

Find out or calculate the thermal power of your stove and determine the cross-sectional area of the chimney that will ensure compliance with the requirements of SNIP. Select a sandwich chimney that has a round shape according to its estimated cross-sectional area.

Selection of bath pipes by material

The internal chimney pipe is made of stainless steel. If possible, choose a pipe with the thickest wall, it is more rigid. Do not buy a pipe with a wall less than 1 mm. The outer pipe can be made of any metal, even galvanized steel. It is better that the outer pipe is also made of stainless steel - when heated, the material practically does not elongate, which cannot be said about a galvanized sheet.
Stainless steel pipes are only identical in appearance. When purchasing, you can determine the quality of products as follows:

Try to find out the metal composition of the pipe. High-quality samples are made from austenitic steel with the addition of molybdenum, chromium, and nickel. These substances help resist corrosion and acidic substances.
Inspect the pipe welds. Burnt seams are not allowed.
Stainless steel pipes are expensive. You can reduce the cost of installing a sandwich pipe in a bathhouse if you make a combined chimney: in a steam room with high humidity, high fire safety requirements and in order to give a representative appearance, install stainless steel elements, in other places - galvanized ones.
For a bathhouse, buy sandwich pipes with heat-insulating material that can withstand temperatures of more than 800 degrees. Asbestos, mineral-bonded, and expanded clay insulation have these characteristics.
The thickness of the insulator layer with the same material properties can be from 20 to 60 mm, so before purchasing, be sure to inquire about the composition and properties of the insulation.

Connection of pipe elements for a bath

On the market you can find samples that are joined and fixed to each other in various ways - flange, bayonet, “via a cold bridge”, but for a bath it is recommended to choose between a “smoke” or “condensate” connection.
The difference between the connections is as follows:

The “smoke” connection guarantees that there is no leakage of smoke through the joint into the room. But, on the other hand, condensation flowing down the walls of the pipe can get inside the sandwich through the cracks and damage the insulation.
In a “condensate” connection, the inner pipe of the upper sandwich fits into the socket of the lower pipe, so moisture does not get on the insulation. In this case, there is no guarantee that smoke will not leak outside.
The customer independently chooses the connection method. For indoor installations, the “smoke” method is usually chosen, because a small amount of condensate forms in sandwich chimneys.
When purchasing, check the quality of the modules joining. A good connection will be ensured by samples from one manufacturer.

Preparatory work before installing the pipe in the bathhouse

Before installing a sandwich pipe in the bathhouse, or more precisely at the stage of construction of the stove foundation and roof, check the location of the chimney axis. The pipe should not cross the rafters and floor beams of the attic and roof and should be located at a distance of less than 25 cm from the wall. It is possible to carry out preliminary installation of the stove and chimney in a minimal amount. The work is completed when at least the subfloor is ready and the wooden elements of the roof are secured.
Place the oven on the subfloor. Place the device in its normal position in a vertical plane, taking into account the height of the floor “pie” and the thickness of the floor covering. Lower the plumb line from above to the center of the furnace outlet flange and see the results. If the load-bearing elements of the roof do not intersect with the plumb line, cut off the excess elements to allow installation of the pipe. Postpone major work until construction work on the floor is completed.

Instructions for installing a chimney in a bathhouse

The procedure for installing a sandwich pipe for a stove in a bathhouse looks like this:

Install a ceiling pass-through assembly (CPU) where the pipe passes through the ceiling.
Install the first pipe element, which should be single-walled, onto the exhaust flange of the furnace. The sandwich pipe is installed starting from the second level.
Install the double-wall pipes and the remaining elements of the chimney one by one (tees, elbows - if required by the pipe design), lead them through the ceiling, secure them together and to the walls.
Insulate the pipe penetration into the attic.
An inspection with a stand should be installed up to the attic for inspecting the internal cavity of the pipe and cleaning it from soot and other similar elements.
Continue installing the chimney in the attic and lead the pipe to the roof. Only sandwich pipes are allowed to be installed in the attic; additional elements are prohibited.
Apply thermal insulation where the pipe passes through the roof.
Secure the outer part of the pipe with guy wires (if it protrudes high above the roof). Install a spark arrestor and fungus on top of the finished product.

Fastening a sandwich pipe in a bathhouse to the wall

The pipe is narrowed on one side, so for assembly it is enough to install one pipe into the other. To seal gaps and joints, a chimney sealant that can withstand temperatures of 1000 degrees is used. The absence of gaps in the connections increases traction.
When connecting pipes, adhere to the following rules:

For internal pipes, sealant is applied to the outside of the upper internal pipe.
On the outer pipes - on the outer surface of the upper pipe.
At the joints of a single-wall pipe with a sandwich chimney or with other modules - from the outside, around the circumference.
Sandwich pipes are connected to each other with clamps on one side.
Sandwich pipes are connected to tees and adapters with clamps on both sides.
The pipes are attached to the wall using brackets every 2 m.
The tees are fixed to the supporting structures with brackets.

The passage of a chimney in a bathhouse through the attic floor

Installation of a sandwich pipe in a bathhouse must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNIP regarding thermal insulation of the chimney when passing through wooden floors. The temperature in the firebox, especially if fired with wood, reaches 800–1000 degrees. It easily heats the chimney (and the boards in the ceiling) to a high temperature that is critical for wood.
To ensure safe passage of pipes through the attic floor, a ceiling-pass assembly (CPU) is used. The product is made in the form of a box measuring 300 x 300 mm. There is a hole in the horizontal wall through which the sandwich pipe passes. Polyurethane foam made of stainless steel or galvanized iron can be found in finished form on the market. The device is mounted in the ceiling opening before the pipe is assembled.
Thermal insulation of the pipe in this place is performed in the following order:

Install the polyurethane foam into the opening in the ceiling along with the heat insulator and secure it.
Install the sandwich pipe on the lower elements so that the connection is higher than the attic floor.
Make sure that there is a gap of at least 130 mm between the pipe and the ceiling.
This gap can be left unfilled, but it is better to fill the internal space between the pipe and the walls of the polyurethane foam with mineral wool.
Cover the joints at the bottom and top with stainless steel sheets. Also place a heat insulator between the sheets and the ceiling.

The passage of a chimney in a bathhouse through the roof

Let's consider the features of the passage of a sandwich pipe through the roof:

Make sure that the distance from the pipe to the ceiling wall is at least 130 mm.
Cut out the roof sheet from a steel sheet. It is a sheet with an internal hole equal to the diameter of the pipe, and dimensions larger than the opening in the ceiling.
Place the roofing sheet on the pipe.
Pass one end of the pipe into the roof opening from the attic side, install the other end into the lower pipe.
From the roof side, install a lead base (corner roof groove) on the pipe and lower it onto the roof. Tap the base with a hammer and press it to the surface of the crusher.
From the attic side, fill the gaps between the pipe and the ceiling with basalt cardboard and basalt wool.
Lift the roof sheet all the way up and secure it with wood screws.
To ensure a sealed joint, cover the joint with rubber-based asphalt roofing sealant.

Video instructions for installing a sandwich pipe in a bathhouse with your own hands:

Installing a sandwich chimney is a labor-intensive job that requires concentration and attention from the performer. The main thing is to choose high-quality materials that will ensure the reliability and safety of heating the bath. Author: editors of TutKnow.ru

Reading time: 7 minutes.

Bringing a chimney out through a wall in a bathhouse is much easier than running it through the ceiling and roof. The outer pipe is fireproof, but can serve as a channel for heat leakage from the room. The correct selection and installation of a chimney in a bathhouse eliminates the disadvantages of this method.

Do it yourself or order it?

If you are unsure of your own abilities or lack minimal construction skills, it is better to prefer the services of professionals. The work of installing a chimney is not particularly difficult: the cost of work in Moscow is calculated based on the height of the house and is about 2,000 rubles. per 1 m. The total cost of installation also depends on the choice of material (diameter, type, additional structures, etc.).

Modern building materials allow you to do all the work yourself: the outer part is assembled from separate modules. Sandwich products do not require additional thermal insulation. Before making a pipe in a bathhouse through a wall, you need to calculate its height, take into account the purchase of related materials and the requirements for the safe installation of a hot structure.

Chimney pipes are made from different materials:

ceramics;
asbestos cement;
tin;
of stainless steel.

For a bathhouse, it is important to choose a high-strength pipeline that is resistant to temperature changes and water contact with a hot surface. Metal products best correspond to these characteristics.

Depending on how long the inside of the chimney will be (before it exits the wall), choose a simple tin pipe or a stainless steel pipe. When the output is made directly from the furnace, then any type of metal products will do. But when installing long internal chimneys, it is worth choosing stainless steel: it will last longer and will always have an attractive appearance.

The outer part can be made of asbestos cement or prefabricated metal sections. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the weight of a structure with a height of at least 5 m. A solid asbestos-cement pipe weighs a lot, and with an accidental mechanical impact or fall it can split. The metal products are light and consist of individual parts about 1 m long. The connection is made by simply composing the corresponding parts of the parts. To change the direction, special branch modules are used.

Among the types of metal products for the external part, you should prefer stainless steel structures. Sandwich chimney parts will help retain heat. In these products, a thermally insulating non-flammable material is laid between 2 layers of metal. It has little effect on the weight of the structure, and the principle of assembly from separate blocks makes the installation process quite simple for the home craftsman.

Making and installing a chimney with your own hands

Before making a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall, it is advisable to take measurements of the horizontal and vertical parts. According to SNiP standards, the length of the horizontal pipe should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and fuel combustion products will enter the room.

If the stove is located too far from the wall, it is necessary to install the chimney in the bathhouse with the maximum possible rise of the inner part of the pipeline to the point where it exits into the wall. When calculating the vertical street section of the route, it is necessary to take into account that its height must be greater than the horizontal or inclined part of the pipeline. It is also undesirable to install a pipe that is too short: the height from the outlet of the nozzle from the stove to the highest point of the chimney should not be less than 5 m.

Drawing and diagrams

Based on the requirements, you will need to draw up a drawing, which should indicate how to remove the pipe in the bathhouse through the wall, the length of the horizontal or inclined section. When installing a vertical structure outside a building, fire safety requirements must also be taken into account:

distance from the wooden wall - at least 50 cm;
distance from the roof overhang - at least 25 cm;
the height of the pipe above the roof is calculated so that the edge of the chimney is 50 cm above the ridge.

Drawings indicating all dimensions will help you correctly calculate the amount of material needed.

Size calculation

The internal diameter of the pipe in the bathhouse is an important indicator on which both the quality of the draft and the degree of likelihood of carbon monoxide accumulation depend. The diameter or cross-section of the pipes is calculated based on the furnace power indicator:

for a standard furnace in a bathhouse or an industrial device up to 3.5 kW, products with a cross-section of 14x14 cm or a diameter of about 15-16 cm are used;
a sauna stove with a power of 3.5-5.2 kW is equipped with a chimney with a cross-section of 14x20 cm or a diameter of about 20 cm;
For more powerful heating devices, chimneys with a cross section of 14x27 cm or a diameter of at least 25 cm are recommended.

When choosing sandwich sections, you need to take into account that the specified parameters must have the internal cavity of the product.

Selecting the location of the chimney outlet

The pipe outlet through the bathhouse wall should not be located lower than 1 m from the floor. When installing inclined channels, you need to take into account the distance to the ceiling: at least 50 cm.

A hole is made in the wooden wall for the chimney. In this place it is necessary to cut the brick. The dimensions of the separating layer are 45 cm in each direction from the pipe surface. In the cutting, a passage is left for the pipeline. Its dimensions are 2-3 cm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe.

Installation

Insert a solid module with a length of at least 50 cm into the cutting hole. The pipe should be wrapped in asbestos cloth. There should be no connections inside the wall. To clean the pipe from soot and condensate, a tee with a plug at the bottom is placed on the outer edge of the horizontal part of the chimney. A module of the vertical part of the pipe is mounted in the upper hole of the tee.

The structure is fastened to the wall using brackets and metal clamps. They are placed in increments of 1-1.5 m. Separate sections are connected by inserting pipes into one another and tightening them with a connecting clamp. A cap is mounted at the upper end to protect from rain and wind.

The inner end of the section carried out through the groove is connected to the furnace pipe or a pre-laid horizontal part of the pipeline. If the cross-section of the pipe differs from the internal cross-section of the chimney, transition elements are used. Seal the connection with fire-resistant material. If desired, a module with a valve is placed between the furnace nozzle and the pipe section in the groove.

Frequent errors and problems during installation

Failure to comply with the requirements for installing a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall can lead to a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning. Such consequences can cause:

accumulation of condensate in the pipe - it is necessary to install and clean the tee in time;
heat loss through the pipe and high fuel consumption - additional insulation of the external part of the chimney is necessary;
weak draft, smoke - increase the height of the pipe or its diameter.

If the pipeline is laid obliquely or horizontally near wooden walls, it is recommended to make a protective screen from asbestos sheet and tin. It will prevent excessive heating of the wood and reduce the risk of fire.

Maintenance and cleaning

When heating a bathhouse with birch or pine wood, a large amount of unburnt resinous substances accumulates in the chimney. The soot deposit gradually increases, blocking the lumen of the pipe. Some of the soot may fall to the junction of the horizontal and vertical parts, causing a complete blockage of the pipe.

Contamination cannot be seen from the outside. They are judged by the reduction in draft and the entry of smoke into the room when the firebox door is opened. You can clean the pipe using a special device.

A round brush with hard plastic bristles and a weight (0.5-1 kg) must be attached to a strong rope or steel cable. Lower the device into the upper hole of the vertical part and move it down, performing forward and backward movements. In this case, the soot is swept off the walls with a brush. The flakes fall into the lower part of the tee, from where they can be easily removed along with the accumulated condensate. Soot is removed from the horizontal part of the pipe through special doors if it is long. You can remove dirt from the short pipe directly through the firebox.

To ensure that less soot accumulates in the pipe, it is better to heat the sauna stove with aspen or poplar wood. In addition to removing soot, you need to periodically remove the plug from the tee on the outer pipe and drain the accumulated condensate from it.

There was also a simpler option - made from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.

What are the advantages

Why were sandwich pipes able to quickly conquer the market? Simplicity of design, consisting of an outer and an inner pipe, filled with mineral wool inside for thermal insulation. Special fasteners at the end make installation easy, no matter whether it is through the roof or the wall. For production, such reliable material as steel is used. If you know all the details, or even better, watch the video instructions, then assembling such a system with your own hands will not be a problem. But you must strictly adhere to the installation instructions and fire safety instructions to avoid problems in the future.

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause the loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first one pays off with a long service life, then the second one depends only on who will do the installation.

It is important to know

Before starting the installation, you should familiarize yourself with some subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the structure area inside the room, the less heat loss there will be. When creating a detailed diagram, take into account the fact that smooth horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if there are wooden parts in the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between fastenings should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or insert with a door through which inspection and cleaning of soot will be possible. Of course, installing a sandwich chimney is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, a chimney is installed through a wall made of sandwich pipes. To do this, measures are taken to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. It’s good if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you cannot do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you will have to do it. These are the fire safety standards for log houses.

Already at the stage of purchasing pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations on hand. A short chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return indoors, and if it is too long, this will speed up the process of fuel combustion and heat will escape into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is considered to be in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fasteners.

It is clear that the ideal option is for the pipe to pass through the roof or wall, and it does not matter whether it is taken into account by the building design. This guarantees your safety. But if it doesn’t work out, then we look for an area on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to retreat at least 40 cm from any communication, and if this is not possible, then provide additional insulation.

Different walls have their own installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger in diameter than the pipe itself. A special drill will help create a round hole shape. And now, in order:

First method: you will need several heat-insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other;
The second option: we run the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, markings are made taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problem, place a special metal frame inside. The free space near the pipe must be filled with fireproof material and shields must be installed to cover the passage. The main difficulty is just getting through the wall, and then assembling the structure is quite simple. Have you collected it? We fix it on the wall.

It is clear that when experienced craftsmen install, there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through a wall: video instructions

In the foreseeable past, no one would have thought that installing chimneys would be within the capabilities of everyone. And it’s clear why this is so. Previously, only a stove maker knew how to correctly create a structure from bricks of the required shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were highly valued.

How to properly install a chimney made of sandwich pipes through a wall

In order to create the most comfortable conditions in this corner, in addition to comfort, you should take care of safety and ease of installation.

For this purpose they were invented chimneys made of sandwich pipes. Thanks to their special design, combustion products in the form of ash and soot do not settle on the walls of the pipes, which additionally provides protection against accidental fire.

What is a sandwich pipe?

Sandwich pipe- this is a special smoke channel made in the form of two interconnected metal pipes that differ in diameter. In this case, a pipe of a smaller diameter is located inside a larger one, and the free space between them is filled with a special fireproof material - heat-resistant basalt fiber using high pressure.

The chimney itself can be imagined as a construction kit, which is assembled from special elements - tees, clamps and bends.

Ease of assembly is ensured by well-thought-out design details. Each element has different thread sizes on both sides, thanks to which the parts are assembled according to the principle of sockets in sewer pipes. This connection ensures the pipes are completely sealed. To further strengthen the connected sections, clamps are used.

How to assemble a sandwich pipe correctly?

To begin with, the two-layer pipe is securely attached to the sauna stove nozzle using a starting cone.

Chimney in a sauna stove– the simplest design, because it has no turns or additions. In most cases, this is a straight pipe coming from the stove and going through the ceiling to the street.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney in a bathhouse

Despite the fact that installing a chimney from sandwich pipes with your own hands is a very simple task, feasible for a person who has nothing to do with construction, you still need to pay attention to the basic subtleties of the installation. In this article we will consider installation of a chimney through a wall.

Installation occurs in the upward direction, from the stove to the roof. When assembling a chimney, the narrowed end of the pipe is inserted into the previous, wider one.
The sandwich pipe is never installed directly to the furnace. First of all, it is better to install a single-wall stainless steel pipe. This will allow you to get more heat output, while protecting other elements of the stove from overheating.
Due to the absence of soot accumulation on the walls of the chimney, condensation is easily removed from it. For this, additional tees are installed.

The tees can be easily moved around the structure using special skids. To create such a structure, you need to disassemble the chimney, securing the fittings for the brackets, then assemble the outer bracket and attach several corners to it.

The wall should be covered with a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, and asbestos should be attached to the plywood with screws. The next layer is galvanized steel with dimensions of 120*200 mm, also secured with screws. Make a square recess in the steel sheet for the pipe outlet, and insert the adapter into it. Next, use a special anti-corrosion varnish to coat the bracket.
When installing the chimney, remember to leave some free space between the wall and the pipe, the so-called concession.

The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At the pipe joints, it is necessary to use a sealing material with heat-resistant properties (withstanding temperatures up to 1000⁰C). At the end of installation, it is imperative to clean the structure from the protective film.

To further clean the chimney from soot, a revision is provided in the pipe body - a tee with a door on the side. It cuts directly into the pipe.

For reliable support of the chimney, you can make your own bracket from steel corners 30x50 mm. For this you will need a drill with an angle grinder and M10 bolts. Instead of bolting, the bracket frame can be held together using electric welding.

Conclusion

The most labor-intensive stage in the process of installing a chimney made from sandwich pipes is drilling holes in the wall and sheathing the structure with insulating materials. And then, having prepared the necessary material and tools, it’s enough to just follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

How to install a chimney from sandwich pipes

In recent years, more and more chimneys are made from sandwich pipes. The point is a relatively low price, long service life, and quite attractive appearance. It is also important that independent installation of a sandwich chimney is possible. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Option painted to match the roof covering

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layer nature: there are two layers of metal, between which there is insulation. This structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple chimney made of a metal pipe. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, and hard radiation does not emit from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created indoors. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensation that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer at such a high temperature, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation.

What materials are they made from?

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Perhaps for the removal of combustion products from a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are unsuitable for more serious heating devices - at high temperatures, zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high-temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a small content of alloying metals to highly alloyed heat-resistant ones. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope of application will be different, and so will the price.

As is clear from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive - for the inner casing. This is necessary to reduce the cost of products, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Externally, these products are inferior to stainless steel, but serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

There is insulation between two layers of metal. Most often this is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation varies from 30 to 100 mm:

With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature should not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are produced only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
A 50 mm insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope of application - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-burning, provided that the chimney is vented to the street (through the wall).
A 100 mm layer of stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, you need to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can operate. Not every stone wool can withstand heating up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled

Connection types

Sandwich chimney elements can be connected to each other in two ways: with sockets and corrugated edges. A socket connection requires a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of chimney tightness is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers, where it is important to prevent leakage. There is also a minus: installation requires high precision.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The disadvantage of this solution is that to ensure tightness, a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required, and it costs a lot.

Features of sandwich pipes for chimneys

It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). This type of connection is necessary for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use a seam connection.

Installation methods

There are two ways to vent the chimney outside. The first is to pass the pipe through the wall, and then raise it along the outer wall to the required level. The second is up, through the ceiling and roof. Both are imperfect.

If the chimney is outdoors, condensation actively forms in it due to temperature changes. Therefore, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed in the lower part of the chimney. This unit allows you to maintain the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed and the condensate is drained. Also, soot periodically gets knocked off without any problems - you can run a special chimney brush through the cleaning hole.

Approximate diagram of the passage of a chimney pipe through a wall and roof

If the chimney will be discharged through the roof, several passage units will be needed - according to the number of ceilings. If the house is one-story, you will need one passage through the ceiling, and a second through the roof. You will also need a master flash or an apron for a round galvanized pipe.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one passage unit - through the wall. But it will be necessary to attach it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are flammable (wooden house or frame), the walls must be protected with a non-combustible screen.

By smoke or condensation

Types of sandwich pipe assembly

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to one another. If the wider end is turned upward (in the figure on the right), the assembly is called “condensate”. With this installation method, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that if the joints are not properly sealed, smoke can leak into microcracks. This type of sandwich chimney installation is used when the pipe is routed through a wall. This is where free drainage of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not scary - they are not critical on the street.

If the narrower edge is turned upward, the second element is put on top of it with the wider part. This type of assembly is called “by smoke” (in the picture on the left). In this case, condensate flowing down the wall may leak through a joint that is not sealed well enough. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (out through the roof). Condensation flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, if the joints are well sealed, condensation will not leak out.

In order for the connection of the sandwich chimney modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant and then tightened with a clamp.

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before you go to the store, you need to know the required diameter of the chimney, the height of the pipe and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of a sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. If your outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but definitely not smaller, and the narrowing cannot be done along the entire length of the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly at the boiler outlet, and then the working size comes next.

If you don’t have a boiler yet, but you know its power, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

boiler power up to 3.5 kW - internal diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - at least 95 mm;
more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it’s better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on the chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider to improve draft.

Installation of a sandwich chimney begins with determining the diameter

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the location of its outlet, but its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case, install the pipe to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is above 5 m, then the pipe should rise above the roofing material to the following height:

Should rise 50 cm above the ridge if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the ridge level, but the angle should be no more than 10° (see figure).
If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height can be at the same level as the ridge element or higher.

Under such conditions, normal traction is ensured. The smoke will go away normally regardless of weather conditions. To prevent leaves from getting into the chimney, special umbrellas, weather vanes are installed, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve draft.

Sandwich chimney pipe height

If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they install a smoke exhauster - a forced draft is obtained. A fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, forced exhaust saves the situation.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through a wall

When venting a chimney through a wall, there are two ways. The first option (pictured on the left) is to raise it in the room closer to the ceiling and take it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the smoke pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney ends up on the street.

How can a sandwich chimney be routed through a wall?

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means, under equal conditions, the traction will be better. Also, with this structure there is less chance of soot plugs forming.

If the outlet of the smoke pipe is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation diagram changes slightly - a 90° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other diagrams.

The stove itself is placed on a non-flammable base, and the wall behind the stove is covered with a non-flammable screen. The easiest way is to attach a sheet of metal to the wall. It can be mounted on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place a heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

Preparing a site for installing a furnace and installing polyurethane foam into the wall with a piece of pipe

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible walls - 450 mm. It turns out to be a solid hole, especially if we talk about walls made of flammable materials. There is one way to reduce the size of the opening for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the standards of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as fire safety standards are met. Square holes are easier to make and cover, which is why they are made more often.

This is what a pipe passage through a wall, sealed with a sheet of metal, looks like

A passage unit - a box made of non-combustible material - is inserted into this hole. The sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it and fixed in the center. All gaps are filled with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. This is usually a sheet of metal.

A passage unit is inserted from the side of the room. In this case it is made of mineralite, but it could also be metal

One important point: the chimney must be designed so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

A similar structure can be welded from a profile pipe of small cross-section 25*25 mm or 25*40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that goes through the wall. At the bottom there is a removable glass in which condensation accumulates. Some models have a fitting at the bottom with a small tap. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, drain it into some container (it is very toxic, so there is no need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Next, the tube is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will clearly be more than 3 m, it is possible that the height of the chimney should be slightly lower than the ridge - no lower than 10° relative to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.

It is advisable to install the chimney above the ridge

But since this house is located in a low area, to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was attached to the wall with stainless steel clamps, in increments of a little more than a meter. The roof is equipped with guy wires made of steel rods with a diameter of 6 mm. To install guy wires, there are special clamps “with ears” to which the guy wires are attached.

Attaching guy wires to a chimney from sandwich tubes

Another important point that many people forget: at the place where the pipe is installed, a snow retention section must be installed on the roof, otherwise in the spring the pipe may be blown away by snow (if the pipe is not routed towards the gable, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When venting a chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafters on the roof. It is necessary to arrange it so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the combustible element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the combustible element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be displaced. This is done using two 45° angles.

Displacement of the pipe to pass through the ceiling

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. In the photo above it is black. After this, an adapter is placed on the sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire standards - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by thermal insulation material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-flammable heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (it is nailed or secured with wood screws).

The gray material around the perimeter of the hole is mineralite

The sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give it direction by installing several bars that will hold it, but it can move up/down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay or granulated foam glass. Previously, sand was still poured in, but sooner or later, it all spilled out through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which a non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was an asbestos sheet, but since asbestos is recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard began to be used.

There is another option. Trim the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-passage assembly. It immediately contains both a box and a decorative stainless screen.

Ready-made ceiling passage assembly (one of the options)

Having brought the pipe into the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films in the passage area (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. This way the damage is minimal. The exposed sheathing is cut so that it is at least 13 cm from the pipe.

How to bring a chimney through the roof - passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, you need to cut them according to the standard, and cover them with the same mineralite. The result should be something similar to the following photo.

Correct passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof

Master flash for a sandwich chimney - rubber cap with a flexible “skirt”

The joint between rubber and pipe is sealed with heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with sealant.

Pipe-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands: into the wall, through the roof

For self-installation of a sandwich chimney to be correct and safe, you need to know the rules and fire safety standards. Read the article on how to remove a sandwich pipe through a wall or roof.