It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists. However, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out yourself. First of all, it is necessary to understand the types of drainage and the various schemes of its design, as well as its purpose.

Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If you install it incorrectly, the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil erosion.

Types of drainage

In order to properly drain a site, it is necessary to analyze its types and understand the peculiarities of each one.

Drainage happens:

• superficial;
• deep.

Surface can be easily done with your own hands without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively easy job.

Note! It is best to carry out deep drainage at the stage of building a house.

The building also needs protection. It often happens that the flow of groundwater penetrates into underground premises. Water can flood a cellar, garage, underground parking lot or recreation room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.

Do-it-yourself surface drainage of the site is carried out using various rain inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with flows of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.

There are two types of surface drainage: point and linear.

1. Spot. Such a system consists of water collectors, which, in turn, are connected to the sewerage system. Water collection devices are usually installed under drains, in low spots and under taps.
2. Linear. This type of drainage is done using trays that are laid in a special way. The system resembles a canal that slopes towards a well. This is where moisture from rainfall comes in.

It cannot be said that one type of drainage is better than another. Often both varieties are used together for greater effectiveness. All devices in the system require regular cleaning, otherwise they will no longer function properly. A well-organized drain serves well and does its job.

With spot planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the sewer pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.

Improper planning will lead to moisture penetration into the underground rooms.

The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to run pipes to the sewer system. The top of the tray is covered with a grill. This is both a protective and decorative element at the same time. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grill and remove debris from the container.

Linear drainage

The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the operating principle remains the same.

The most common mistake when installing a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, you must first understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.

For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. In difficult cases, you will have to contact specialists.

Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washout of the foundation, flooding of beds, swamping of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer you cannot walk around your summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article we will look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm drain with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of a developer and a country homeowner?

A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, taking on the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewer systems is throwing money away.

The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large amount of excavation work involving equipment.

Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site has already been inhabited, landscaping has been done, a blind area has been arranged, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help you find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of an area.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground it turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!

Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, discharging water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief on the personal territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when installing drainage yourself:

• Failure to maintain the correct slope of laid drainage pipes. If we take an average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on “wrong” soil. To avoid siltation, pipes in geotextiles are used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• Using cheaper crushed limestone instead of granite, which is washed away by water over time.
• Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m/day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm drain

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for installing storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain the melt water that comes from the neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a scheme for laying the trays.

The result is the following “pie”:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray made of asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage for the portal user with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.

After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times less than “red” sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.

Eventually yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when installing internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

We dig a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

We paint the manhole cover.

We insert a drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe into the well, maintaining a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.

We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget rain shower.

Construction of low-cost drainage and drainage of wetlands

Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not a light summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE

Peat soil is characterized by a high groundwater level. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To drain the top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn’t spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a plot in SNT with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone floats. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.

The problem of waterlogging is always relevant. Many holiday villages are located in lowlands with clay soil or high groundwater levels. From the end of winter, when the snow is actively melting, it is no longer possible to set foot on the site. And the water sometimes stays until mid-spring!

Gardening work has to be postponed until a later date... And most plants are unable to survive in such conditions! Choose and plan solutions to the problem.

We are building a drainage system

1. If the groundwater is deep, and the only concern is moisture after melting snow or heavy rain, it can be drained using a system of grooves. It is good if the site is located on a slope.

Then at its lowest point you can build a waste pond or well, the water from which can be easily pumped out with a pump.

Surface drainage is done along the entire perimeter of the site and always around buildings.

From the point of view of experts, it is a set of properly installed channels equipped with sand traps, as well as protective grilles that also perform a decorative function. But, say, owners of dachas whose homes are not intended for permanent residence solve this issue more easily. Open concrete trenches are made around buildings, which can be easily cleared of debris with a brush. And along the fences, the grooves are covered with geotextiles and filled with crushed stone or pebbles.

Groundwater can only be dealt with using an underground pipeline. I strongly advise you not to experiment yourself, but to contact a professional to at least determine the water discharge point and draw up a plan for the location of drainage pipes.

Let's sand

2. Gradually add sand to flower beds and beds. It will improve soil absorption and promote a more uniform distribution of moisture over its top layer. For clay soil, about 30 kg of sand is taken per 1 sq.m.

We bring soil

Z. But only when surface drainage has already been completed on the site and a house has been built.

Planting birch and willow trees

4. Due to their powerful root system, these deciduous trees drain the soil well. Unfortunately, this method of draining water is not suitable for small areas.

Excess water in a summer cottage leads to soil washout, a decrease in the yield of garden crops, and deformation of residential and outbuildings. In this case, it is important for everyone who is faced with such a problem to know how to drain the area of ​​water with their own hands.

What influences the choice of dehumidification method

The accumulation of water on a site can occur for many reasons, but the main ones are the following:

• increasing groundwater levels;
• the site is located in lowlands, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of precipitation;
• clay and loamy soils with low moisture absorption coefficient.

The most problematic areas on the site are identified in the off-season, when the maximum amount of precipitation falls - in early spring and late autumn. It is recommended to pump water from the site during the dry period - in summer.

Rapid drainage of land is carried out using several methods. When choosing the appropriate solution to the problem, it is necessary to take into account the main factors:

• type and level of soil permeability;
• size of land;
• optimal water level;
• period of soil drainage from groundwater;
• finished buildings on the site that require drainage;
• direction of underground sources;
• presence and type of vegetation.

The most popular methods for draining land on a site are a drainage system, drainage pits and ditches, landscape design elements, moisture-loving shrubs and trees.

Closed and open drainage systems

Modern drainage systems allow you to quickly and effectively get rid of excess liquid on the site. Simple drainage consists of a pipeline and a water receiver. A stream, lake, river, ravine or ditch can be used as a water intake.

The drainage system is arranged from the water intake to the land plot, maintaining the optimal distance between its main elements. On dense soils with a high clay content, the distance between individual drains should be 8–10 meters, on loose and heaving soils - up to 18 meters.

Open drainage

An open or French drainage system consists of shallow ditches whose bottom is filled with fine gravel and stones. Such drainage is arranged quite simply: a small-depth ditch is dug with wastewater discharged into a drainage well or a deep trench to the level of the sand layer, which is used as a drainage cushion.

A drainage well measuring 1x1 m can have a closed or open design; its bottom is filled with medium-fraction gravel and broken bricks. Such structures do not become clogged, but are filled with soil, which is washed away by water. For this reason, draining this type of well is much more difficult than draining an open drain.

Closed drainage

A technically complex device that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from stagnating. The arrangement of closed drainage is carried out using pipes made of clay or asbestos cement and laid in a certain order - in a straight line or in a herringbone pattern. Closed drainage is suitable for areas located on a slight slope, which ensures natural water flow.

Closed drains are often combined with drainage systems that allow water to be removed from the foundation of the house.

Sewage pits and ditches

Many owners choose a fairly simple way to solve the problem of draining areas by digging sewage holes and ditches. The arrangement of a cone-shaped pit is carried out as follows: at the lowest point you need to dig a pit up to 100 cm deep, up to 200 cm wide at the top and 55 cm at the bottom. The drainage system is quite effective, since excess moisture can be drained into drains without the use of additional means.

The process of arranging drainage ditches is more labor-intensive, but no less effective. Ditches are dug along the entire perimeter of the territory - the depth and width are 45 cm. The walls are made at an angle of 25 degrees. The bottom is laid out with broken bricks or gravel. The main disadvantage of ditches is their gradual crumbling, so it is worth timely cleaning and strengthening the walls with boards or concrete slabs.

Landscape design elements - streams and ponds

We effectively get rid of excess water on the site by installing artificial ponds and streams. Similar elements of landscape design can be organized in areas located at a slight slope.

It is better to arrange water sources in dark places to avoid algal blooms. The bottom of the artificial pond is lined with stone or geotextile.

To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation – shrubs, plants, grass – can be planted next to the artificial pond.

Such landscape forms are structurally reminiscent of the French drainage system, since they are developed according to the same principle.

Moisture-loving plantings - shrubs, trees and grass

To drain the soil, moisture-loving trees, shrubs and grasses that are capable of pumping out excess water are used.

In order for green spaces to remove moisture, you need to know which varieties are recommended to be planted on the site. Such plantings include: willow, birch, maple, alder and poplar.

No less in demand are shrubs: hawthorn, rose hips and bladderwort. In moist soils, hydrangea, serviceberry, spirea, mock orange and Amur lilac develop.

To give the site attractiveness and aesthetics, moisture-loving garden flowers are planted - iris, aquilegia and asters.

Too moist soil is not suitable for growing fruit trees - pears, apples, plums and apricots. Therefore, when choosing trees, it is better to give preference to seedlings with a shallow root system. Trees are planted on hills up to 55 cm high.

To do this, a peg is driven into the soil, the earth around it is dug up to a depth of 25 cm. A prepared seedling is tied to the peg, the roots are sprinkled with earth with the addition of humus. The root collar remains exposed to a height of up to 8 cm above the ground surface.

After planting is completed, the seedling is watered abundantly to get rid of air gaps between the root system and the soil.

Important! Excessively wet soil has high acidity, so when draining it is recommended to additionally liming it. This will improve the quality of the soil for further gardening and household work.

During operation, the condition of the soil on the site is carefully checked, since excess moisture can have a negative impact on garden crops, residential and outbuildings. It is recommended to carry out the soil drainage procedure simultaneously with liming.

Now every landowner knows the answer to the question of how to get rid of water on the site and do it correctly. This will require free time, desire and financial investment.

Rising groundwater levels are fraught with negative consequences for land owners. This kind of flooding occurs due to melt water or due to high precipitation intensity. Soils consisting predominantly of clay or loam are a real disaster for owners of summer cottages, since this rock is a substance that does not allow water to pass through it well. Consequently, soils of this type have to be drained by using drainage, rather than waiting for the natural removal of excess moisture.

In this article we will look at examples of how to make drainage of a dacha area with your own hands.

Before you start draining the soil, you need to understand what is required for the job and how to implement it. In most cases, land owners prefer to hire professionals to carry out drainage work, although carrying out such activities is not a cheap pleasure.

At the same time, the construction of a drainage system does not seem to be something extremely complicated. Almost anyone can master this skill by acquiring the necessary knowledge and purchasing the required material.

Results of refusal to carry out drainage work

Overwatering soil can cause a variety of problems, including the following:

• destruction of the foundation masonry, the appearance of cracks in the walls and curvature of window openings, which manifests itself with regular flooding of buildings;
• failures on paths lined with stone or tiles, deformation of ordinary paths and squeezing out of pools due to so-called heaving, which is caused by the physical properties of soil saturated with moisture;
• the formation of mold and dampness as a result of flooding of spaces under the floor and basements;
• death of trees and flowers, since plants require normal watering, and excess moisture harms them.

Under what conditions is drainage in a summer cottage especially important?

1. Clay soil structure.
2. High groundwater level.
3. Most of the territory has surfaces made of artificial materials, for example, in the form of concrete paths.
4. The buildings erected on the territory are installed on deep foundations.
5. The location of the site is determined by a lowland, when there is a nearby slope from which water can flow, or, conversely, a flat area of ​​the territory does not contribute to the drainage of precipitation.

If your site corresponds to the above conditions or some of them are relevant, you should think about creating a soil drainage system.

The main mistake in organizing drainage

The main drawback of arranging drainage on a summer cottage is poor design or its absence. At the same time, it is necessary to clearly understand how and to what extent the same drainage pipes will be installed. In this case, a site analysis is required, including a study of the occurrence and behavior of groundwater.

Water usually has the most detrimental effect on the foundation of buildings, so it is worth paying attention to drainage design at the stage of building a house. For example, it may be necessary to build another basement as a barrier to groundwater.

Refusal to design, as well as incorrect development of the drainage system, is fraught with the emergence of problems, the solution of which will require a lot of time, effort and money.

Types of drainage

There are two types of soil drainage systems:

The actual installation of drainage on the site must be done either in a place empty of buildings and communications, or when all engineering structures for the house have already been laid. By contacting a specialized company, you can order the creation of a drainage system project and its installation.

A carefully developed drainage plan is an important part of the work due to the fact that in this case an individual approach is required, taking into account the entire range of site features, including the location of plantings, communications, buildings and drainage systems of neighboring areas.

Surface drainage (from RUB 1,350 per meter)

1. Involves the removal of excess water.
2. The depth of occurrence is from 50 to 70 cm.
3. It can be used when it is warm outside.

To determine the cost of drainage characterized as surface drainage, you need to refer to the following calculation formula, provided that the soils of the site contain a lot of clay:

S: 8 = L,

where S is the area of ​​the territory, measured in m²; 8 – water collection area using 1 linear meter of drainage; L – length of the drainage system in linear terms. m.

If the conditions include a plot area of ​​1500 m², then we calculate that the length of the drainage system should be 187.5 m, since 1500: 8 = 187.5. At the same time, in reality, a larger drainage area will be needed, which is determined by the need to lay it bypassing buildings and plantings, and these are extra meters.

As for calculating the installation of surface drainage on sandy soils, the formula needs to be slightly adjusted, in particular, instead of 8 you will have to use the number 12.

Turnkey deep drainage (from RUB 3,300 per meter)

1. It is in demand for lowering the groundwater level and draining the territory.
2. The depth of occurrence is from 1.5 m.
3. Designed for year-round use.

Scheme of this type of drainage:

Installation

So, let’s figure out how to make a system for draining the soil of a site, point by point:

1. When arranging surface drainage, trenches with a depth of 50 to 70 cm are provided, and deep ones - from 1.5 m.
2. Sand is poured into the bottom of the ditch in one layer, the thickness of which is 5 cm.
3. The next stage is optional, but desirable if financial capabilities are available. We are talking about laying geotextiles at the bottom of the recesses.
4. Next, a layer of crushed stone 15 cm thick is placed.
5. Drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are distributed into trenches.
6. A general soil drainage system is formed by connecting cylindrical structures.
7. A layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick is laid.
8. Geotextiles are placed again.
9. Next, the trenches are backfilled using sand and soil.
10. The area is put in order using plant soil.

To make it easier for precipitation to drain, the drainage system should be installed at a slope towards the part of the site that is its lowest point. Drainage ditches on the site, ponds and any ditches can be used as water intakes. Otherwise, you will have to equip a special well. Its main task is to cleanse the drainage system of sand (soil) and collect water pumped out by the drainage pump. To ensure the possibility of repairing the structure and monitoring its condition, inspection wells are installed above the places where pipes turn and their connections.

Surface drainage project

As an example of how surface drainage works, let’s consider an extremely simple plan for such a system in relation to a specific area. As initial information, we set the condition that it rained, and the water mainly collected at three points (1, 2, 3).

The geography of the site is such that its surface has a slight slope towards the opposite left corner when viewed from the road. In this regard, the main trench (4) is located at the far end of the site. Excess water is discharged into this recess through auxiliary channels (5 and 6). The removal of precipitation coming from the roof of the house is possible using appropriate trenches (6 and 8). In case of intersection of the path that runs along the house and outbuildings, it is proposed to install a bridge (7).

Deep drainage project

Below is a plan of a soil drainage system characterized as deep. The proposed diagram allows us to see that water is first collected using drains (1), then enters the main pipe (2) with further flow into a special well and, finally, into the water intake. This drainage system is supplemented by wells used to monitor the operation of the structure in question (3).

When ensuring the functioning of any drainage, the main problem becomes the final removal of sediment from the site. For this purpose, natural formations in the form of ravines, rivers, streams and ditches near roads are usually used. In their absence, so-called storm drains are created.

Pipes for deep drainage

There are perforated products specifically designed for creating deep drainage systems for summer cottages, which are equipped with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Previously, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes were used for these purposes, which had the disadvantage of rapid clogging, which required regular washing.

Today, the situation has changed, as the market is filled with polymer pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, which are suitable for irrigation and drainage work. There are brands of similar products supplemented with a filter shell, which eliminates the possibility of clogging the holes with soil and sand particles.

What is geotextile

A material known as geotextile is used to provide gentle drainage. The main properties are that it can actively absorb moisture and retain small grains of debris. Typically, the use of this material is more justified in areas where there is a significant amount of moisture. In this regard, it is somewhat thoughtless to use geotextiles when creating drainage systems in crushed stone and clay soils.

Drainage well

To collect precipitation in the absence of natural formations in the form of the same ponds, a drainage well is created, which is a container that is buried in the soil below the level of the pipes. With the help of this object, water is first accumulated and then distributed. Special cylindrical structures are connected to it, and a pipe or pump is mounted on top to drain excess water.

The drainage well allows you to monitor the system and carry out preventive maintenance. You can use a plastic container as a hydraulic container for such an element, purchasing it in a specialized store or the corresponding department of a shopping center. In addition, you can build a drainage well yourself using reinforced concrete rings.

conclusions

Installing a soil drainage system is a rather labor-intensive process. However, this should not discourage you from installing such a structure yourself, since such work can be done by every home craftsman without the involvement of specialists.