When the boiler is working and heating properly, but the radiators and pipes are cold, the air is almost always to blame. Well, really, in 99% of cases. I practically never encountered any blockages inside the systems. But for some reason they are always looking not for air, but for a blockage.

Dmitry Belkin

Air in the heating system

Air in the heating system is one of the main reasons for lack of water circulation, cold radiators, specific murmuring noise and other unpleasant things. The topic is large and we will consider it gradually. This article is part of a series of articles about building heating “from A to Z”.

Where does air collect and how does it move?

Friends! Let's start with the banal things. How do bubbles in water behave? They rise up. So the air in the heating system rises. If a pipe with water has a slope, even a slight one, then the air will still flow up it, that is, in the upward direction of the slope. If the pipe has a very slight slope, then the air will still flow up it, but very slowly. How slow? Depends on many factors. If the pipe has a smooth inner surface, then the bubble will flow through it faster than through a pipe that does not have a smooth inner surface. It is easier for air to flow through a pipe with a large diameter than through a pipe with a small diameter. In general, a bubble can travel along a highway with a slight slope for a day, two, or a week. Depends on many reasons and even on atmospheric pressure.

About the surface inside the pipes

I know of only one type of modern pipe with a non-smooth inner surface. These are pipes made of ordinary metal, black or galvanized. All other modern pipes have a very smooth, almost mirror-like inner surface. I already wrote when I was looking at plumbing that there is no need to use old (out-of-date) pieces of iron in a new house. I have to repeat it. If you don’t want problems, never, under any circumstances, use iron pipes and fittings for heating or plumbing! Use either plastic, copper or brass. Copper is the best, but it is also the most expensive.

If there is a fluid flow (circulation) in the system, especially forced circulation, and this circulation goes in the direction opposite to the direction of movement of the air bubble, then this circulation will interfere with the natural movement of the bubble. According to experience, the air bubble does not move against the movement of water.

About air traps in the heating system

The system may have a hump in the supply line. The bubble will easily enter this hump, but it will be extremely difficult for it to come out. Sometimes it’s completely impossible. Here we have the most difficult case. Depending on the steepness of the hump, we may never remove this air from the system at all. Only if you cut the pipe at the very top and cut in a valve to bleed air.

There are complex devices in the heating system from which air cannot escape in principle. This is, for example, a radiator. If the radiator has an inlet and outlet on one side (for example, on the left), and the second side (right) has plugs at the top and bottom, then this radiator will collect air on the right and it will never leave there. And we won’t be able to get this bubble out of there with any manipulation. Another popular case is when water enters the radiator from the bottom and exits from the bottom. Then a bubble may form at the top of the radiator and you cannot expel it through the bottom of the radiator either.

Radiator - air trap

About traffic jams and small bubbles

It is clear that air can occupy the entire pipe along some of its length. This is an air lock. It is irresistible for natural circulation and for small (ordinary) circulation pumps. But there may also be small bubbles that travel through the system along with water. Such bubbles can simply circulate, or they can unite when they meet. If there is a place in the system to collect these bubbles, then during operation of the heating system an air lock will collect in this place. After this, circulation will stop. Bubbles can also collect in traps (radiators). In this case, the part of the radiator in which the air has collected becomes cold.

If the circulation in our system is quite fast, and there are no obvious humps or traps, then the bubbles circulate through the system and create gurgling sounds. It’s as if water is flowing in a thin stream from one container to another. I regularly hear this kind of noise in one of my bathrooms, which has a beautiful, but not very well-configured heated towel rail. The bubbles run through it so actively that some parts of the heated towel rail are either cold or hot.

About the highest points in heating

How many high points should there be in heating? In single-pipe heating there is strictly one. The heating uses a two-pipe scheme, but with natural circulation - also one. In heating with a circulation pump, there is also one, but with reservations. At the highest point of heating there must be means for releasing air, because the highest point is an air trap. An open expansion tank can serve as such a means. In closed circuit heating, special valves are needed. Automatic or manual.

Reservations for high points in a heating system with a circulation pump

Purely theoretically, we can lay both the supply and return lines along the baseboard and make water rises into each radiator. But you need to understand that any upward movement of water is overcoming the force of gravity and it is more difficult for water to move up than down. This means that the circulation pump must overcome additional resistance. Natural circulation, even poor circulation, is even more difficult in such systems. And even taking into account the fact that the water in the system does not just rise, but circulates, still, believe me, the upward movement of water is not preferable if there is a possibility of movement to the side or down. From the alternative “up” and “any other direction”, water always tends to choose “any other”.

We must strive in every possible way to ensure that the water does not have to go up often. It is better to raise hot water once through the main riser, and then release this water down the hill. I repeat. This is not a mandatory condition, but desirable. Don't go against gravity. The fight against gravity ends badly. If not a disaster (cold radiators), then overspending on heating.

Regarding the return line

The return line should have no humps or high points. Never and under no circumstances. The return line should never go higher than the radiator from which it takes water. Otherwise, when draining the water, we will not be able to drain the water from the radiator. The return line must be routed so that all water flows out of the system by itself and by gravity. There cannot be any air in the return line and no air valves are installed on the return line.

Why is there no air in the return line? Because all the air remains in the supply. It is quite difficult to force air down.

Where does air constantly come from in the heating system?

This question is asked quite often and I don’t know the exact answer to it. Just guesses.

Air can be taken from the water itself, in which it is somehow present. If there is a lot of water, then there will be a lot of air. After freshly filling the heating with water, air is actively released for several months.

Air can collect in dead ends, such as closed expansion tanks, and escape gradually. Through the same water. This process is even longer. Hang closed expansion tanks upside down, as I described in the article about open and closed heating systems.

If you have a special air trap in the form of a vertical pipe with an automatic air vent at the end, then this can also be a source of bubbles. The fact is that automatic air vents often “freeze” and stop venting air. Then the tube is filled with air and the bubbles accumulated in the tube are torn off from below by the air flow and carried into the system. In this case, I say that bubbles begin to circulate throughout the system.

If you have an exceptionally strong circulator installed and there is a small hole in the system, then I think air may be sucked into the hole due to the Venturi effect. I have observed this many times in a water supply system, when there is a hole from which water does not flow, but into which air is sucked in by the flow of water. That is, if you turn off the water, water flows out of the hole. And if you open the water at the end, the water stops flowing from the hole. But in reality, I have never seen this in heating systems. In heating systems, the water speed is not so high. But this does not mean that this can never happen.

Personally, in my heating system, the air stops bothering me about six months after freshly filling the heating with water. I don't have automatic air vents. All valves are manual only. But my system is small and my house is small.

How to remove air from the system?

The easiest way, and if the system is made correctly, is to go to the valve, open it, release the air until water flows, and close it. I’ve been doing this in my system for over ten years now and I’m happy with everything.

You need to operate this valve as follows. We hold the white part with one hand, because it will dangle and water will splash our walls. With our second hand we unscrew the screw in the middle. How do we hold a mug into which the water will be drained? Right! Third hand!

Please note that there is no guarantee that after screwing, the hole will point straight down. But still better than normal. I wonder if the standard crane was invented by the genius Mayevsky, then who invented this crane? But, by the way, Mayevsky is an unknown hero. Someone came up with it and off it went.

If the system is gravity-flowing and there are no valves for bleeding air, but there are slopes, then you need to wait until the air comes out on its own through the expansion tank. In this case, there should be no circulation in the system. The system must be cold. You can wait a long time. It could be a day, three days, or a week. It all depends on the length of the lines, the diameter of the pipes and the steepness of the slopes. This expectation is also typical when filling the system from above. In other words, if your system is working, but poorly, and you would like the bubbles to come out on their own, then you need to turn off the boiler, turn off the motor, if there is one, and let the system cool. The heating system has circulation and this circulation will interfere with the exit of air in those areas where the circulation and exit of bubbles go in different directions.

Automatic air vents should be installed at the highest heating points. They should not be included in the security group. Now strange security groups like tridents have appeared. There is a pressure gauge on one tooth, an emergency valve on the other, and an air vent on the third. I consider this trident a stupid and arrogant move to extract extra money from us. The air vent on this trident is superfluous. It was turned on in order to extract extra money from us. There is no air at the outlet of the boiler. Air accumulates at the highest points. But the boiler is not this top point. The boiler is, one might say, a continuation of the return flow. But there is no air in the return.

Is it possible to expel the air with strong water pressure?

Theoretically it is possible, in practice it is very difficult. To do this, you need a powerful pump with high pressure (more than two atmospheres). In this way, air can only be expelled from an open system. Also, there should not be too many branches in the system, or those branches that are not driven through must be closed. Usually with this method the expansion tank overflows heavily. You need a lot of experience and skill to use this method.

Expelling air by draining water

But this is the most popular way to “bleed” gravity systems. A large volume of water is drained from below while simultaneously being poured from above. The bubble is thus shifted, broken and removed from the place where it was stuck. This method is personified by the torment of the Russian people (I don’t know about other peoples) with gravity-fed open heating.

I consider the topic of air in the heating system to be covered. If you forgot anything, write in the comments. I'll finish it. When commenting, no registration is required and there is no captcha. Over the past few years, I have personally responded to all comments, with very few exceptions. At least “thank you,” but I’ll answer.

I hope for a successful solution to the problems of air locks in your heating.
Dmitry Belkin.

In water heating systems, it is not uncommon for a problem to arise that leads to a deterioration in water circulation within the circuit. The problem has a specific name - airing in the heating system. The uninterrupted operation of water heating is based on the principles of circulation of hot water (coolant) inside the circuit and heat transfer through radiators that heat the rooms. Air in the system leads to the appearance of air pockets and, as a result, to the ineffective functioning of the entire system due to reduced heat transfer.

To begin solving the problem, it is necessary to establish the reasons for the appearance of air: natural or artificial. A natural reason is airing of the system due to the ability of heated water to release air. The higher the temperature of the coolant, the more air bubbles are released. According to physical laws, the accumulation of bubbles occurs in the upper part of the circuit, since air is lighter than water.
The remaining reasons are considered artificial. It is difficult to give a complete list, but the main reasons are considered to be the following:

insufficient pressure in the system;
installation errors of the heating circuit (for example, incorrect pipe slope);
errors when putting the system into operation (for example, filling the circuit with water too quickly);
high concentration of air in the water used;
incorrect operation of the shut-off equipment (possibly loose connections of individual elements);
clogged pipelines;
consequences of repair and maintenance work;
corrosion on metal surfaces of circuit elements;
incorrect operation of air vents or their absence.

Consequences of airing

Disruption of heat transfer due to air locks is unpleasant for residents who pay for heating, but in fact receive a reduced temperature inside the premises. But this is not the only disadvantage; there are other negative consequences:

noise and vibration during water circulation, which in the worst case scenario can lead to destruction of integrity at the junction of circuit elements;
defrosting the system if there is no water circulation in several radiators;
excessive fuel consumption in order to increase heat transfer;
destruction of internal metal parts under the influence of air (due to corrosion).

The totality of all the consequences affects the operating capabilities and overall service life of both individual elements and the entire heating system.

De-airing

Airing can occur when the system is filled with coolant and during operation. Situations are resolved in different ways, but it all comes down to bleeding air using valves and taps built into the system.

Filling a closed system with forced circulation must occur in a certain sequence to prevent the formation of air pockets. Cold water is supplied from the bottom up, the air exhaust taps are left open, and only those installed for draining the water are closed. As the coolant rises, it squeezes air through open valves and taps. As water begins to flow through the tap, it is closed. So gradually, always smoothly, fill the system with water. The pump is started when the circuit is completely filled with coolant.

For air release, manual or automatic air vents and air separators are used. It is clear that the installation of manual air vents involves the release of air by maintenance personnel or a resident of the apartment (house). Such air vents are found in ordinary residential buildings on the upper floors or on technical floors. The Mayevsky faucet is known to many residents of old high-rise buildings, who independently release accumulated air every heating season. In new houses, it is common practice to install a manual drain valve on technical floors.

The automatic air exhaust system operates separately from human intervention. The operating principle of automatic air vents is the same. There is a float in the air vent body that catches water. The float presses on the spring-loaded rod, allowing access to the outside. The body is gradually filled with coolant, the float presses on the rod and closes the outlet. To ensure that the air vent works properly, periodically check the cleanliness of the needle and the suitability of the sealing ring for further use.

The need for separators arises when operating large heating systems, where manual reset is problematic. The separator copes with the removal of air dissolved in water. It converts the air into bubbles and removes them from the system. At the same time, the separator (depending on the model) can capture impurities that are present in the coolant (sludge).

All air vents are mounted at critical points - at pipe bends and at the highest points of the circuit.

The heating system of a house or apartment, consisting of pipes and radiators, is subject to a phenomenon called airing. Air enters the heating system, forming a plug, and water cannot move through the pipes. The result is a decrease in room temperature. Knowing how to act in such a situation will help you avoid problems.

Airing of the system - an air lock formed in the pipe

Causes of traffic jams

Before fixing the problem, you need to understand why the heating system in a private house or apartment is airing. The reasons may vary depending on whether we are talking about individual or centralized heating.

Factors that cause central heating to air out:

depressurization;
water leak;
design errors.

The system may become airy due to depressurization, which could occur as a result of repair work.

The system may become depressurized during scheduled repairs or when replacing parts of pipes and radiators. Another reason why the heating system will air is when air gets into the pipes during drying. Errors and errors made at the design stage lead to pipe routing or battery installation being performed incorrectly. As a result, the pipeline will be constantly aired.

Individual heating structures are aired less often. The reason most often lies in an incorrectly drawn up project. In order for water to circulate freely in the pipes, they are made at a certain angle. Compliance with this condition protects against the occurrence of air jams. A necessary element of the system is an expansion tank. It is needed to control the water level and add it if necessary.

It has been noticed that the formation of an air lock is typical for the first start of heating. As water enters the pipes, air must be removed. To do this, a tap is attached at the highest point, and a hose is connected to it. When the pipes are filled with water and air stops coming out, close the tap.

You will see about the concept of airing the system in this video:

Removing a plug in autonomous heating

A simple and effective method that allows you to quickly remove air from the system is to install an automatic air collector. The structure is located at the top point of the system. When necessary, it is opened and the air lock is removed.

The simplest means of de-airing is opening the air collector

Another way to bleed air is through expansion tank. It is usually at the top. To eliminate air from the pipes, no additional actions are required - it rises and goes out on its own.

The air from the heating batteries is vented using a tap installed on the side of the radiator. You can also use a special device - the Mayevsky crane.

The final choice of deaeration method is influenced by the specifics of the project. In general, if the heating technology is followed, there should be no problems.

Deaeration of a centralized system

In apartment buildings and the private sector, central heating is designed with air collectors. They are located at the top point. When the heating system is aired, just open the tap. When an air lock forms, opening the air collector allows air to rise through the pipes. Thus, the entire system is filled with water, and there are no plugs left.

In apartments, to ventilate the system you just need to open the tap

In an apartment or house, you can remove the blockage by bleeding the air in the place where it formed. For this purpose, batteries are equipped with taps. It must be borne in mind that it is unacceptable to install plumbing elements. Apply special valves called air vents. If the owner of the premises installs a water tap instead of an air vent and accidentally drains a certain amount of coolant from the system, he will have to pay a fine.

The vent is opened using a special key or a regular screwdriver. Extreme care must be taken, but even if everything is done correctly, it is possible that not only air will come out of the radiator, but water will also leak out.

Mayevsky crane and automatic air vent

A simple device designed to eliminate air pockets will help eliminate airiness in the heating system and avoid problems with the law. The tap opens until air begins to escape.

Only a small amount of water will flow through the Mayevsky tap

Water may leak at this time, so you need to prepare the container in advance. The Mayevsky faucet is good because it has a very small hole through which a lot of water will not leak. As soon as the air is completely released, the device is closed. The installation of this element is permitted by regulations. The disadvantage of the faucet is that it has to be unscrewed and screwed in manually.

When air accumulates in the pipes too often, unscrewing the faucet can become a problem: not everyone wants to perform this tedious task several times a week. Therefore, it makes sense to consider another device - an automatic air vent (air vent). This is an auxiliary element, which is a body made of bronze or stainless steel.

Often the air vent is installed with a shut-off valve. Installation is carried out in this order: first screw in the valve, then screw the air vent into it. Principle of operation:

air enters the housing and is released;
when water begins to flow, it raises the float;
the float presses the valve.

Thus, the device allows air to pass through, but does not allow coolant to leak out. However, the homeowner should be careful in any case, especially when it comes to a centralized heating system.

The pressure in the pipes is very high, and if you often bleed the air by unscrewing the structure or opening the tap, a breakdown may one day occur. For frequent problems it's better to invite specialists. Often, only they can determine the true cause of air in the heating system of an apartment building and take the necessary measures.

One of the most common problems with water heating systems is the formation of air pockets, that is, airing of the system. The presence of an air lock in a certain part of the heating system prevents the circulation of water in this part and, despite the presence of hot water in the system, the air-filled part remains cold.

The issue of removing an air lock from a heating system is very relevant, since almost everyone faces this problem at least once during the heating season.

In this material, we will consider the main reasons for the formation of traffic jams in the heating system, both central and individual, and also provide effective ways to solve this problem, depending on the specific situation.

Reasons for the formation of air locks in the central heating system and ways to solve them

Let us list the main reasons for airing of the central heating system:

depressurization of the heating system due to repair work, including replacement of elements on the pipelines of the heating route;

drainage of water from the heating system;

presence of leaks in the heating system;

errors in the design of piping and installation of heating system radiators in apartments.

As a rule, in heating systems for central heating of houses, air collectors are provided, which are mounted at the highest points of the heating system and serve to accumulate air that may be in the coolant (hot water). The air collector is equipped with a valve to release accumulated air.

If there are no air collectors in the house, there is no access to them, or venting air from them does not solve the problem of airing one or another section of the heating system, then it is necessary to solve the problem locally - remove air pockets directly at the places where they form.

The most effective way to remove air from the heating system in an apartment is to install valves on each heating radiator. Installing conventional water taps on central heating radiators is unacceptable, since draining water from the system can result in a considerable fine. An alternative to conventional taps is the so-called.

The Mayevsky tap is a device that is used to remove air pockets from the radiators of the heating system. This tap is opened using a regular screwdriver or a special key. The hole in such a faucet through which air is released is very small, therefore it is not used to draw water from the system and, accordingly, it is not prohibited to install a faucet of this type.

To remove the air plug from the radiator, the Mayevsky valve is unscrewed until air begins to escape from its hole. As the air lock is removed, a certain amount of water from the heating system may also come out through the tap, so it is necessary to place a vessel under the tap to collect water. The tap is closed when air stops flowing through it and only water comes out.

Bleeding air from the heating system through the Mayevsky tap is carried out manually, which is not very convenient, especially if the formation of air jams occurs very often. Therefore, preference is given to more modern automatic taps, which automatically discharge air if it appears in one or another part of the heating system (one of the radiators).

The automatic air vent is designed in such a way that if there is air in its body, a hole opens and the air plug is removed from the radiator. As soon as water appears in the air vent housing, the hole closes and water does not flow out.

In the absence of taps in heating radiators, to bleed air in the heating system, they often resort to unscrewing the plug on the radiator in which the air lock has formed.

This method is very dangerous, since if the plug is unscrewed excessively, it may break, which will lead to flooding of the room with high water pressure, since the central heating system is usually characterized by high water pressure in the system. In addition, this method is quite labor-intensive, so in the case of constant airing of radiators, it is not relevant.

Very often, the problem of airing the system is a consequence of mistakes made in the design of the heating system or after its partial replacement.

For example, after a complete replacement of the heating system of one of the neighboring apartments, air pockets began to form in the heating radiators. Therefore, constantly removing air pockets by bleeding the air will not solve the problem. In this case, it is necessary to check the correctness of the piping and radiator connections and, if necessary, eliminate any errors found (involve the appropriate specialists).

Often, disruption of the normal operation of the central heating system has a completely different nature. In addition to the presence of air pockets, heating radiators may not be filled with hot water due to physical aging of heating system elements (pipes or radiators). That is, before concluding that the cause of a cold battery is the presence of an air lock in it, you need to make sure that it is in good technical condition and is physically capable of passing water through it.

This problem is especially relevant for heating systems, the design of which contains metal elements that have a shorter service life compared to plastic and metal-plastic pipes.

Therefore, if there is a problem with central heating, first of all, you should inspect the heating system. It is recommended to replace metal pipes and radiators that have been in operation for a long time, as there is a high probability that they are in unsatisfactory condition.

The launch of the central heating system of a residential building must be carried out by specialists in strict accordance with the rules and features of a particular type of wiring. Therefore, airing of the heating system may be a consequence of improper starting of the house.

This problem is typical for the initial start-up of the heating system at the beginning of the heating season, as well as after the next restart, for example, in the event of a temporary shutdown of the boiler room. In this case, the solution to the problem is to completely drain the water from the heating system of the house and restart it, taking into account the characteristics of a particular type of wiring.

Air locks in the individual heating system, their elimination

The main reason for the constant formation of traffic jams in the radiators of an individual heating system is errors in the design of the system. When installing individual heating systems, it is necessary to comply with the requirements for one or another standard heating scheme.

For example, if this is a system with natural circulation of water in the system, then this system must be installed in compliance with the horizontal slopes of the pipes to ensure normal water circulation throughout the entire system.

At the top point of the heating system, regardless of its type, there must be a tap (the so-called overflow) to bleed the air present in the system.

Typically, air pockets in the system appear during its initial startup. Therefore, when filling the system with water, it is necessary to simultaneously remove air from it. To do this, a hose is directed from the tap, which is installed at the top of the system, into the sink, and the system begins to fill with water. As the system fills, air will come out of the hose. You need to wait for it to come out completely.

During operation of the heating system, air may form at the top point. To remove it, it is recommended to install an automatic air vent at this point.

Also, when starting the system, you can try to remove air by pouring water into the expansion tank. Or, fill the system through the provided water collection system, and as the expansion tank fills, scoop water out of it.

Air pockets that form in radiators during operation of the heating system are removed using taps installed in the radiators. In this case, it is more convenient to use automatic air vents. You can also install a Mayevsky manual tap or a regular water intake tap.

In any case, it all depends on the type and features of the individual heating system. Typically, in a properly designed heating system, water circulates properly and air pockets do not form during its operation.

Airing the system

Air trapped in the heating system is the reason that the heating will not work correctly, and some parts of it may fall out of the circuit altogether. That is, it turns out that airing the heating system is a negative factor that must be eliminated by any means. How to do this, what are the reasons for this process, is it possible to remove the air lock with your own hands? We will answer these and other questions in this article.

At the very beginning, we will determine exactly why the aeration process is bad.

The thermal output of the system in general and sections individually is reduced.
Coolant circulation is reduced or completely absent.

Even these two factors are enough to reduce heating efficiency to a minimum. And this usually leads to excessive energy consumption and large financial expenses, not to mention such an indicator as comfortable living in a poorly heated house.

Reasons for air getting into the system

There are three reasons:

Depressurization of risers during their repair. Very often in the summer, all heating services begin to carry out preventive maintenance of heating systems and their repair. Usually pipes, shut-off valves, radiators, and so on are replaced.
Coolant drain. Again, this applies to repair work. But most often, air gets inside the system during the purging and pressure testing process.
Violation of the integrity of the contours. Deformation of the contours, especially the pipe part, gives the effect of air getting inside.

How to deal with airiness

The issue outlined in this section worries many residents of private houses and owners of apartments on the upper floors. Fortunately, today this is no longer a problem. Scientific and technological progress has provided many ways, or rather devices, with which air can be bleed from the heating system. This can be done manually or automatically. The most important question is “how?” Therefore, we will consider each device separately.

Mayevsky crane

This is a small device that is installed at the end of the heating device. It has a special fitting installed, unscrewing which gives access to the heating battery itself. And since air usually accumulates in the upper part of the radiator, the Mayevsky valve was installed in the upper pipe instead of one of the casings.

Mayevsky crane

Some may ask why an air vent is needed if the heating of city apartments is a system with forced circulation of coolant. It will still break through. No one doubts it, but the air will create interference, hence poor-quality circulation, and, therefore, ineffective operation of the system as a whole. Therefore, whether you want it or not, you still have to bleed the air. Let us add that air accumulates at the very top of any system, and the upper end of the radiator is the highest point if we are talking about heating in a multi-story building. Therefore, the Mayevsky crane is usually installed in the apartment on the top floor.

The most important thing is that with the help of this simple device, residents began to relieve the airlock themselves, without calling plumbers. Instructions on how to do this are available today on many websites, including ours. So it makes sense to familiarize yourself and apply knowledge in practice.

Very often, in multi-storey buildings, Mayevsky cranes are installed specifically on technical floors, which are located at the very top of the building. To do this, a riser is brought to this floor and a relief valve is installed into it using a pipe with internal thread. This is done so as not to disturb the residents of the house, that is, the process of bleeding air occurs outside the apartment.

Air separator

Air separators

This is a very unique device. If the Mayevsky valve removes the air lock, then the air separator removes the air dissolved in the coolant. Do you feel the difference? It is this technology that allows the device to be installed anywhere in the heating circuit.

The process of removing the air mass is carried out by converting it into bubbles, collecting them and removing them outside. In fact, this device is part of a separator unit, which is installed in the basement of the house. Manufacturers are currently offering an improved design of this device. Most likely, this is a double separator, one part of which is responsible for collecting debris and sludge, the second for collecting air. So to speak, two in one. At the same time, both compartments work efficiently, plus there was a saving in materials for their manufacture, which was reflected in the price of the device, and saving on installation space.

The only thing I would like to note is that air separators are usually installed in buildings where a central heating network is used. It is unprofitable to use them in autonomous heating.

From the name itself it already becomes clear that this mechanism does everything itself without direct human participation. How does he work.

The coolant passes through the internal cavities of the air vent, where a special plastic float is installed.
This float is connected by means of a flag to a rod, on which a spring presses from the reverse side.
When the inside of the housing is filled with water, the float presses on the rod, which blocks the access of air inside the system.
If there is no coolant inside, the rod opens the passage.

Automatic air vent

I would like to note that all modern air vents operate on this operating principle. Let us add that this device has a fairly long service life if it is installed and operated correctly. True, it also has breakdowns.

Most often, they all occur due to low quality coolant. For example, a salt deposit forms on the rod needle, which does not allow the passage to be completely blocked. Hence the leaks and improper operation of the entire mechanism. It is not difficult to repair this defect. You just need to remove the cover of the device, get to the needle and clean it.
The junction of the cover and the body begins to leak. Defect - the gasket is leaking. It just needs to be replaced with a new one.

Conclusion on the topic

So, in this article, the reasons and methods for airing the heating system of a house were discussed. Why does this happen, and in what ways can air be expelled, why does it accumulate, and so on. Note that today there are a large number of tools with which you can easily answer the question of how the heating system is aired and how to deal with this problem.

We have analyzed three main mechanisms currently used in the heating systems of houses (private and multi-storey). All of them are quite effective and do not require any complex manipulations. Therefore, we choose one of them and solve the problem with airing.