It’s good when everything in the bathroom works and doesn’t cause any problems. And what a nightmare it begins when something in the toilet starts to leak! It’s good if this only affects the owners themselves, but sometimes it happens that the problem also affects the neighbors below, when leaking water spoils the repairs that have just been made.

In situations where the toilet tank is leaking, the first thing you want to do is call a technician and get rid of this problem as quickly as possible. But take your time to do this, as almost anyone who can hold a wrench in their hands can successfully cope with this task. In general, problems that arise in the cistern are not that serious and can be easily fixed.

Why is it worth repairing your drain tank? Because the bill for water that you did not use may unpleasantly surprise you at the end of the month, especially if you have a cold water meter. In addition, constantly flowing water in the tank prevents household members from falling asleep.

The design of the cistern has changed little over the past few decades. Water still fills the tank first, raising the float in the process. The basis of the cistern's operation is the release of water using a float, a system of levers and a seal. The water that is drawn into the drain tank is shut off using a shut-off valve, and cold water stops flowing into the tank. When you press the flush lever or button, a large volume of water is flushed into the toilet. The tools you will need to repair the cistern are pliers, rubber gloves and wire cutters. Just in case, stock up on a new drain mechanism.

Basic malfunctions of the cistern

If the toilet tank is leaking, what should you do first? Before starting repairs, you need to know exactly what caused the tank to leak and what needs to be fixed?

Reasons why a toilet may leak:

Today, many are replacing old toilet models with new ones that are more comfortable and aesthetically pleasing, and do not cause water to splash or splash when flushed. But this does not mean that new models of tanks do not break down; they also fail, just like old models. The advantage of the new models is the fact that modern tanks are easy to repair; spare parts for them are inexpensive and made of durable modern materials (plastic).

If you have to, pay attention to the shape of the outlet (horizontal or floor-to-ceiling), as well as the model of the toilet itself. The most popular and frequently used toilets on the market are compact toilets with horizontal flush. The “monoblock” toilet model, where the toilet and cistern are a single unit, is also in well-deserved demand.

Before you buy and install a new toilet, make sure there is, and then study it carefully. Pay attention to the design of the drain tank so that in the future it will be easier for you to deal with problems that arise. The simpler the design of the cistern, the more reliable and durable your plumbing will be.

As a rule, all tank mechanisms are sold as a set, but many spare parts are sold for them. If you have chosen an expensive and rare tank model, then if it breaks down it will be more profitable to look for spare parts. If the model of the drain tank is simpler, it will be easier to replace the entire set if it breaks.

Previously, toilets were installed on special platforms in the form of a cement screed, or the toilet was installed on wooden embeds. Currently, the toilet is installed after the tiles in the bathroom, including the floor, have been laid. The toilet is installed on the tiles after marking with a felt-tip pen. According to the markings, the toilet is installed and the toilet is strengthened.

Replacing tank fittings - video

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The slightest leak in the toilet is quite an unpleasant breakdown; it must be repaired as soon as possible so that it does not lead to subsequent flooding of neighboring floors.

But there is also a type of people who prefer to carry out repairs on their own. The following advice from professionals is offered for them.

The first step is to prepare and find the necessary tool, these include:

• pliers;
• adjustable wrench;
• hacksaw for cutting metal;
• screwdriver;
• wire;
• silicone sealant;
• film.

Maybe all the tools won’t be useful, but they should be available.

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Identifying causes

In order to understand why, you need to understand its internal structure. And to do this you need to open it:

1. On the pipe, close the water supply valve to the inside of the tank.
2. Drain all the water in the tank.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.

If water is supplied from the side, this procedure will not take much time. Modern ones are equipped with lids attached via a drain button. The button is pryed and pulled out. There is a screw hidden behind it; unscrewing it, the cover can be removed. That's all, the inner world of the tank before your eyes.

You should pay attention to the condition of the float valve, which is needed to fill the tank with water, and the unit responsible for adjusting the drainage. When you press the drain button, the bottom valve rises, opening the passage for water. Water, draining from the toilet tank, lowers the float down, and using a special lever, the inlet valve opens. The device is very simple. One pipe is needed for filling, the other for flushing into the toilet. After all the water has been drained, the tank begins to fill and the valve returns to its place, blocking a new portion of water.

In order to find out the reason for the constant flow of water in the toilet, you need to remove the lid of the flush tank and drain the water from it.

In a relatively new toilet, the flush assembly is most likely not broken. The water may be leaking due to a faulty float valve. It may simply not be completely blocking the water or may be out of adjustment. It must be installed so that the water flows slightly above the overflow level. The tank always has an overflow level. In modern devices it is located in the drainage unit. For older models, the overflow level was made in the form of a tube protruding from the bottom of the tank. When the water rises to overflow, the excess flows out. Otherwise, the water would overflow over the edge of the tank onto the floor. In older models, adjustment is made by bending the wire lever on which the float itself sits.

Maybe the toilet is leaking due to deformations or cracks in the float. In this case, it will not float up, disrupting the operation of the float valve. You can go to the store, buy a float and then replace it. As a rule, the float is attached to the thread of the wire holding it. The old float is unscrewed, dried, a plastic bag or a simple balloon is put on top and wrapped with tape.

Modern toilets are equipped with a float that resembles a bell, which is attached to a threaded pin and its rotation adjusts the level of the float. By moving the spring clamp of the bell with your hands, the required amount of water is achieved. There should be enough for flushing, but there should not be too much to avoid unnecessary consumption.

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Troubleshooting the flapper

Often the rubber bulb is to blame for water running, which hardens over time and does not close the drain so tightly.

If the water in the toilet still flows, and its supply to the flush tank has not stopped, then, most likely, the reason is more serious and consists in the wear of some components of the toilet tank. It is necessary to check how tightly the drain valve flap fits in place. To do this you should:

• shut off the water supply to the tank;
• drain the remaining water in the system;
• raise and lower the damper mechanism (the damper must fit exactly onto the valve seat);
• if necessary, adjust the position.

If the hinged valve flap is deformed, it is replaced with a new one.

Taking into account the hardness of the water running through the pipes, it is quite possible that mineral salts have been deposited on the valve seat, or that rust and metal particles from the old water supply have gotten onto its surface. To eliminate this, you need to add a toilet bowl cleaner to the tank overnight - it helps dissolve mineral deposits. If this does not help and water is still flowing, the saddle is cleaned mechanically. Clean the saddle with steel wool and fine-grained sandpaper. Work must be carried out with extreme caution, otherwise the integrity of the saddle may be damaged. If it is clear that the saddle is very worn, then it is better not to repair it, but to immediately replace it with a new one.

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Float valve

A faulty float valve can also cause constant water leakage. Serviceability is checked by lifting the float by hand. If water is flowing, then it is worth tackling the valve. Sometimes it is enough to disassemble it and wash it from rust. It would be nice to install a filter on the supply pipe at the same time. If the valve cannot be repaired, it is simply replaced.

It is best to carry out work on replacing the float valve in the following order:

Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to completely change the shut-off valves in the drain tank, then, in order not to make a mistake with the choice, it is better to remove the old one and take it with you to the store as a sample.

1. Turn off the water supply tap.
2. Empty the tank of any water in it.
3. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the nut connecting the water hose and the valve.
4. Unscrew the nut located at the bottom of the tank. To prevent the valve from turning, it should be held. In modern models this nut is located on the outside, in older models it is on the inside.
5. Remove the leaking valve from the tank.
6. Install all gaskets, then install a new valve.
7. Wrap the thread with FUM tape, then tighten the nut. You shouldn’t be particularly zealous here, as you could damage the thread.
8. Connect the valve to the supply flexible hose.
9. Turn on the water and check all connections for leaks.
10. Adjust the float level.

If the supply hose is leaking, the mounting nut gasket may be worn or damaged.

It should be replaced with a new one. The process is identical to the previous one: the water is turned off, the nuts are unscrewed, the worn gasket is removed and a new one is installed, the hose is fixed in its original place, the nut is carefully tightened.

If the toilet tank starts to leak, it always causes a lot of inconvenience. In addition to the fact that the sound of constantly flowing water is annoying, and stains form on the toilet itself, bills for used water also increase. It is not difficult to figure out why a toilet tank is leaking, and in most cases, anyone, even a completely inexperienced craftsman, can fix it with his own hands: the only exceptions are those plumbing products that have additional functions controlled electronically.

Any toilet is a product consisting of an interconnected seat and a tank with a built-in mechanism for draining water. It has been noticed that the drain mechanism fails more often than all other parts. To determine what is disrupting the operation of the device and correctly eliminate it, you need to understand the basic design of the water drainage system.

Tank drain device

A typical drainage device is equipped with two mechanical units: one of them accumulates water, and the other drains it. The first of them ensures the retention of water in the tank, the amount of which should subsequently be sufficient for draining. This device is a system of a float and a closing valve. If the tank is empty, the float falls down and moves the system of levers so that they open the valve, and when it begins to fill with water, the float rises and the levers move so that the valve is closed. The device closes completely when the float reaches the highest point.

The second part of the system is responsible for ensuring that at the right moment all accumulated water is drained into the designated place. In different models of plumbing devices you can see a variety of drainage systems, but the principle of operation is almost the same for all. There is a drain hole in the tank, which is closed with a sealed siphon. The siphon in many models resembles the shape of a regular plunger, but does not have a handle, and in the newest devices it is designed in the form of a button, which is considered more aesthetic. This part is connected to the trigger device using a reinforcement lever system.

Many people don’t know what to do if the toilet tank is leaking and the first thing they do is think of calling a plumber so that the problem can be solved as quickly as possible. However, you shouldn’t be too quick to call the service department, since this task is available to any home craftsman who knows how to properly use a wrench, and problems that arise in the drain device are, in most cases, not too serious and can be fixed with your own hands.

Replacing the mechanism in the tank with your own hands

However, you should not delay too much with the repair of the drainage device, since this directly affects the final amount of payment for water use (if the apartment has a meter for a cold tap), and the sound of flowing water can irritate the residents of the apartment, especially at night. In recent years, many new plumbing devices have appeared, but the principle of operation of flush tanks has not changed for several decades: water, filling the internal tank, raises the float. A system of seal, float and fittings releases all the accumulated water into the toilet, and then the water begins to accumulate again and, raising the float, closes the system.

Some people, thinking about how to fix a toilet tank if it is leaking, remember that plumbers always have professional tools with them. In fact, to remove such a malfunction, you only need wire cutters, rubber gloves and pliers. Experienced craftsmen also advise you to look in advance at your nearest store for a new plumbing drain assembly.

Types of tank malfunctions

Before starting repairs, you should determine what exactly is causing the leak and requires adjustment. A leak in the drain system can occur for several reasons:

1. If water flows into the tank without stopping, it may be caused by a slight misalignment of the lever or damage to the float valve. There are also cases when the valve does not work entirely correctly, but remains intact. This problem can be solved quite easily: the float lever should be aligned horizontally, and the faulty valve or float should be replaced with a working one.

In the event that the float can only be replaced later, you simply need to protect it from the water in the tank by wrapping it in a plastic bag or sealing it with heated plastic.

1. If water flows from the tank into the toilet all day long, this is most likely caused by a rupture of the membrane located inside the siphon, which just needs to be replaced with a whole one. To do this, a lever attached to the float is attached to the top crossbar, allowing you to unscrew the nut that secures the flush pipe and connects it to the drain system. When the siphon is disconnected, you should remove the damaged membrane and replace it with a similar one that is suitable in size. After this, the fittings are assembled and installed in the reverse order.
2. Sometimes it happens that the tank leaks water because the rubber seal has lost its original elasticity. This happens often with rubber “bulbs”: they become similar to the touch of wood and completely lose the elasticity inherent in rubber. In this case, the old constipation simply needs to be replaced with a new one.

The constipation holds water when it fits tightly into its intended recess. If limescale appears on the seat, the base of the lock does not adhere to its walls with the required density and, as a result, the toilet cistern does not hold water. In such a case, the lock must be temporarily removed, and then the surface of the saddle must be cleaned with a stiff brush or sandpaper and returned to its place. Experienced craftsmen also advise tightening all saddle fasteners during this operation.

Tank drain device

1. If the nut securing the base at the overflow point is loose, you need to temporarily remove the tank and tighten the nut located in its lower part.
2. If the connecting cuff between the toilet and the tank leaks, you can tighten it with a clamp or try to install it back in its intended place. A rotten cuff simply needs to be replaced with a new one.
3. Another cause of leakage can be the rubber gasket between the tank and the toilet. These gaskets may rot, or they may simply be installed incorrectly. Plumbers call such gaskets “bitten.”
4. If upon inspection it turns out that the gasket is installed normally, the leak may be caused by a crack that has formed in the tank. Repairing a cracked tank is also not at all difficult: you need to remove it, dry it and fill the crack with sealant.
5. Sometimes a toilet tank starts to leak when the shutoff valve won't hold water. A valve defect is very easy to detect: if you press the valve with your hand, the water flow should stop. If this does not happen, then the valve gasket needs to be replaced.
6. When the button height adjuster moves for some reason, the tank may also leak. A gap through which water flows occurs when the valve is higher than the water drain hole. To fix this problem, you just need to adjust the height of the button.
7. The problem of water leakage can also arise in the place where the drain hose is connected to the tank. A cracked nut will need to be replaced, and if it is not damaged, then tighten it well enough.
8. Sometimes the operation of the tank is disrupted due to breakage of the reinforcement. To cope with this malfunction, the easiest way is to replace the entire fittings.

Replacing fittings in the cistern

Currently, old toilet models are often replaced with modern ones, which have a more aesthetic appearance and are noticeably more convenient to use. For example, one of the advantages of new toilets is the absence of splashing water and splashes during flushing. However, it should be understood that new tanks break down just as often as the old ones did. It should be noted that new models of tanks are much easier to repair, and spare parts for them are made of durable plastic and are relatively inexpensive.

When planning to change your plumbing, you should decide on the desired toilet model and pay attention to how the outlet pipe is installed, which can be horizontal or directed to the floor. Most often today we find compact toilets with a flush in a horizontal plane, as well as “monoblocks”, in which the cistern and toilet are one unit.

Before purchasing and installing a new toilet, you should check whether the installation instructions are included in the kit and study them carefully.

It is important to immediately understand the structure of the tank so that later you can clearly understand why the problem might have occurred. Plumbing fixtures with a simpler cistern design usually last much longer and are more reliable.

Most often, spare tank mechanisms are sold as a set, but if necessary, you can purchase individual parts. If a rare and expensive tank is installed in an apartment, then it will be much more profitable to look for individual spare parts, and in simpler models it is often easier to immediately replace the entire tank. Some time ago, it was common to install the toilet seat on a small raised surface made of cement screed or mount it on wooden rails. Nowadays, the toilet is installed after the wall and floor tiles have been laid in the room. Before installing the toilet, the tiles are marked with a felt-tip pen, and then it is fastened using the markings.

Many plumbing users encounter problems such as leaking. Water can leak both in the barrel itself and in the bowl. This is an unpleasant but fixable situation.

Toilet cistern: its structure and principle of operation

Before troubleshooting and fixing it, you need to understand the structure and principle of operation of the drain tank. Its defining function is to supply the required amount of water to flush the toilet bowl after use. The material for the tank can be ceramic if it comes with the bowl, or plastic and stainless steel if the tank is installed separately. A common problem with plumbing is that the toilet tank leaks water into the toilet.

The tank contains two mechanisms in its structure: one takes in water, the other releases it. Both of them perform the function of a water seal. type controls the supply of water to a certain level, after which it shuts off its supply. Water can enter the tank either through a flexible hose or through a pipe.

The release mechanism can be either pear type or siphon type. The latter makes a lot of noise during operation, since water is drawn in according to the siphon principle, and the water is drained when the button is pressed. The operation of the second mechanism is different in that when you press the button, the bulb rises, and after the water has drained, it again closes the drain hole. To prevent water from overflowing with the pear or separately from it, install protection.

Modern drainage mechanisms allow you to save water, since they have two modes that allow you to drain not all the liquid, but only part of it, if this is enough to flush the bowl. But this is not a guarantee that a problem will not arise when the toilet tank leaks water into the toilet.

Before you start work, you need to check which of the mechanisms is on the tank being repaired. In this case, the toilet lid should be removed carefully, since in the event of a possible breakdown it will be difficult to find this element separately for sale.

Many DIYers are faced with the problem of the toilet tank leaking water into the toilet. What to do?

Leaking water in the tank: possible causes

If the plumbing fixtures were recently installed, they may leak due to improper installation. If only a few months have passed since you started using it, and a malfunction has already appeared, this is most likely due to the low quality of the fittings, and as a result, premature failure. Serious breakdowns that cause the toilet tank to leak water into the toilet do not occur often. They can declare themselves only after three years. The main ones are:

The toilet cistern leaks water continuously due to overflow;

Leak in the toilet itself;

The drain button is broken when it only responds to repeated pressing.

Any of the breakdowns can be corrected, you just need to diagnose it correctly.

Mechanical damage to the toilet bowl or cistern

Cracks in plumbing appear for several reasons. Most often this is due to incorrect installation or the product’s expiration date. Over-tightening the bolts at the junction of the tank and bowl will cause the ceramic to crack. If cracks have penetrated into the drain tank, then it can only be repaired temporarily, but this will be enough to purchase a new one.

So, you need to first drain the water, then dry the surface thoroughly, and then seal the crack with a special sealant. But with the bowl, the situation is more serious; if a crack has formed in it, for any reason, it will have to be replaced, because there are no repair options.

Tank overflowing with water

Often the cause of a leak lies in the fact that the float in the toilet tank is leaking water.

Excess liquid is drained over the edge of the tank. It could be that the float arm is a little misaligned or misaligned. It is necessary to inspect the float, and to do this, remove the cover. Its optimal position is 2.5 cm below the pipe. If the float is deformed, it will not function properly, because water will get into it. A sealant is suitable for sealing a crack in the float, but to do this, the element must be pulled out and dried thoroughly. Again, sealant is not a solution, but only a temporary solution, so you will have to buy new fittings.

If the element has no defects, but the water still overflows, then the problem may be in its pressure. With its high power, the float is pressed against the water, which allows it to escape over the edge. But if the design includes a stabilizing valve, such a problem will not arise.

Constant flow of water into the bowl

Another type of problem, when the toilet tank leaks water into the toilet, is associated with another - when you have to press the button several times to flush. In this case, there is a malfunction in the membrane. It must be washed with water to remove any possible salt deposits.

If this element is deformed and has cracks, then it must be replaced by proceeding as follows: at the bottom of the barrel, find the siphon nut and loosen it, then remove the siphon itself. After replacing the membrane, install the siphon in its original place. You should choose a membrane that is identical to the previous one. When the siphon is removed, you need to check other parts for defects. Often polymer structures become covered with cracks, and oxides form on the metal. If the latter can be cleaned, then the plastic cannot always be restored, which will lead to a complete replacement of the tank.

Flush button does not respond

The cause of this breakdown may be a faulty rod. It can be temporarily replaced with wire, and later purchased a new one.

Breakage in the locking mechanism

When water leaks into the toilet, the locking mechanism may be broken. This malfunction cannot be eliminated by replacing several parts. You need to buy a whole set of the unit, and not look for parts that are not always sold separately.

Broken drain button

One of the reasons for the formation of a leak can be digging on the tank. The return spring may weaken, causing the rod to become stuck, causing the drain door to remain open. In this case, the malfunction can be eliminated by replacing the spring or the button itself.

Leak at the joint with the hose

If a leak becomes noticeable where the tank connects to the flexible water hose, then the first way to eliminate it is to tighten the connecting nut. If a thread is loose, it can be sealed, but a stripped thread or broken hose will have to be completely replaced.

The junction of the toilet and cistern: causes of leakage

If the toilet tank is leaking water, rubber bands can help at the junction of the tank and the bowl.

If a leak appears in such a place, you should inspect the tank for cracks. If they are missing, then the likely cause of the failure is the cuff. It connects the tank and the bowl. It can be made of metal or polymers. The depressurization of the joint contributes to the displacement of the cuff; troubleshooting is simple - correct the element and tighten it. Time can take its toll on this part, so sometimes it needs to be completely replaced.

The second version of the problem lies in the rubber gasket, which is located between the bowl and the tank. Incorrect installation leads to its displacement. Over time, this part also fails, cracks and becomes deformed. If there are no changes to it, then it must be carefully put in place and the bolts tightened. Insufficiently tightened nuts can cause a leak, but there is no need to overdo it, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the ceramics.

Condensate

Often a wet spot appears under the tank due to the formation of condensation on its surface. This happens due to the fact that there is a difference in the air temperature in the room and the temperature in the tank. This nuisance can be eliminated by improving the air exchange in the room, as well as by using a two-level drain.

Conclusion

There are not many reasons for a leak in a toilet cistern. If you know them and follow the instructions for eliminating them, then even a non-professional can cope with this. The main thing is to act confidently and carefully, then the plumbing fixtures will last for a long time.

Any leak in plumbing or internal communications is a problem associated with financial losses, so it must be resolved immediately. If the toilet leaks after flushing or the sound of a babbling stream is periodically heard from the toilet, it’s time to check the condition of the tank. Do you agree?

We will tell you about the most common breakdowns that occur with plumbing equipment that is mandatory for furnished housing. Here you will learn how to deal with them on your own. Taking into account our advice, you can eliminate such situations and competently repair an important device for life.

The flush function involves the long-term or short-term flow of water into the toilet bowl in order to cleanse it of waste products. The process begins by pressing the button built into the tank and ends arbitrarily or by pressing it a second time.

Instead of a button, there may be a lever or a handle on a chain, like retro models, but such options are extremely rare.

By pressing a button we control. It is connected to a locking mechanism, which, upon completion of the drainage, opens the way for a new portion of water to enter from the cold water system. Thus, flushing occurs only at the request of the user.

If water flows into the toilet after flushing or, even worse, constantly flows in a thin stream, it’s time to check the tank’s fittings - one of the parts has failed.

There are two ways to solve the problem: on your own, by trying to understand the structure of the trigger mechanism, or with the help of qualified specialists - plumbers

But first you need to determine that there is indeed a leak.

Signs of improper drain operation include the following factors:

• constant or periodically appearing characteristic sound of rushing water;
• rusty and limestone stains at the water outlet;
• a constantly wet inner wall of the toilet, close to the cistern, even if the toilet has not been used for a long time;
• an unusually long and weak flushing process - a salvo discharge is considered the norm;
• the appearance of condensate on the pipes and tank, which never existed.

The last symptom is associated with the constant movement of cold water through the pipe, whereas under normal conditions the water is used periodically and has time to warm up to room temperature before it is drained.

If you notice a rusty track or yellowish stains that are difficult to wash off in the water drainage area, you should not stop at just cleaning - you must definitely inspect the tank

Sometimes the cause of leaks lies in the dirt that has accumulated at the bottom of the water tank. In this case, it is enough to thoroughly clean the internal surfaces of the tank. To do this, drain and turn off the water, carefully remove the fittings and, using a brush and cleaning agents, remove the sediment accumulated on the bottom and walls.

If operational cleaning does not help, you will have to become familiar with the design of the drain mechanism.

We disassemble the tank device

There are several common reinforcement designs that can be called standard. Among them is an outdated type of drainage device with a rubber bulb, assembled according to the simplest scheme and suitable for tanks with side connections.

This is a rare phenomenon, uncharacteristic of modern models. Let us turn to the current type of fittings, consisting of two modules: drain and float.

The float on a thick metal wire was improved and turned into a more complex structure that shuts off the water supply not from the side, as before, but from below, although side models are occasionally found. The position of the float from them is adjustable, so you can dose a portion of the drained water.

Scheme of fittings. The drain is started by moving a button that is connected to the trigger. When water leaves the tank, the inlet valve opens until the required volume is reached.

Due to the similarity of the fitting models, it is easy to replace the entire structure or change individual parts: the drain float mechanism, the drain lever.

To understand how each element works individually, you can disassemble the model installed in the tank. Of course, before this you need to take safety precautions: shut off the flow of water to the riser or supply line and empty the tank.

All parts can be unscrewed manually or using a set of keys. There are almost no metal parts; instead, only plastic elements have long been used. They are quite durable, do not deform when interacting with hard water, do not rust, and are easy to clean with household chemicals.

In addition to the fixed parts, which are secured with bolts and rubber or plastic seals, there are parts that can be adjusted - the so-called sliders. They can be recognized by small divisions and notches

The sizes and colors of parts from different manufacturers may differ, but the operating principle is absolutely the same. Therefore, if the seal is worn out and a trickle of water constantly leaks from the tank into the toilet bowl, it is not difficult to find a replacement.

To be sure, you can measure the diameter of the ring or simply show the old gasket to the seller.

Common problems and their solutions

There are several reasons for a leak to appear. Drainage problems can be caused by failure of the drain column, dirt clogged in fittings, or wear of rubber seals. Let's look at common cases of leaks and choose the best ways to solve problems.

Water is constantly flowing

One of the obvious signs indicating the need for urgent repairs is a thin trickle of water. If filters are not installed at the outlet of the main line from the riser, over time the “bed” of the stream becomes covered with a sediment of rust and mineral deposits. If water is constantly flowing in the toilet, what should you do in such a situation?

The cause of the leak must first be identified. It is clear that the problem is not in the toilet bowl or installation errors - the roots of the problem must be looked for inside the tank. First, we look under the cover and try to determine the breakdown visually. If this does not work, we dismantle it in the following order.

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If after the next filling of the tank the leak stops, the problem is solved. But as insurance, it’s worth watching the mechanism work for a few more days.

The second reason is that the rubber seal has become unusable

The polymer or rubber sealing ring is the weakest point of the drain mechanism. It is located directly at the outlet of the water flow, so it simultaneously functions as a barrier that retains a variety of dirt, sediment, and mineral deposits from the pipes. As a result, the rubber either becomes dirty or wears out and frays.

In the first case it needs to be cleaned, and in the second it needs to be replaced. The remaining parts of the drain column are reliable; in other words, this part has nothing else to break. The valve is cleaned as follows.

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If during cleaning you notice that the O-ring is damaged, it is better to install a new part. Signs of damage - deformation, cracks, micro-tears, general wear and tear. Even if it still retains its functionality, after a while it will begin to leak water again.

Leak observed after flushing

Sometimes you can observe the following picture: a flush occurs, and after it for some time, water flows into the toilet in an intermittent or even steady stream. Then the leak stops, but after the tank has been filled to its maximum.

Water losses are small, but even with a temporary leak, money goes down the drain, and the toilet bowl slowly becomes covered with plaque.

There may be several reasons:

• defective valve parts;
• skewed drain column;
• partial blockage in the water drainage area;
• failure of a small element of one of the valves.

To find out what's wrong, you need to make a visual diagnosis, and, if necessary, remove the drain mechanism or float valve.

It is quite difficult to notice a small defect when purchasing, since the designs of the drain mechanisms have a slightly different structure. But, after some time, it makes itself felt and the fittings have to be changed

The distortion of the drain mechanism can be noticed immediately - the water release button begins to jam or even fall down. It is necessary to remove the cover and see why the column has lost stability. Perhaps she moved slightly out of the nest and changed her position. The situation can be easily corrected by returning the valve to its place.

It also happens that a fairly large mineral particle penetrates under the sealing ring and gets into the tank with the flow of water from the pipe. While there is little water in the tank, the pressure on the valve is weak, and the liquid continues to flow into the toilet in a trickle.

As soon as the tank fills, the pressure on the seal increases. It clamps a piece of mineral sediment and stops the leak. Cleaning the tank will correct the situation.

Home craftsmen love to improve factory parts, and even in such a simple design as a drain valve, they manage to find flaws. Here is a simple example of how you can get rid of minor but regular water leakage immediately after flushing.

In order for the rubber ring to tightly close the drain hole without waiting for the tank to be filled, it is necessary to attach an additional weight, for example, lead solder, to the axis of the column

Even if the tank is empty, the weight will press on the seal, thereby creating a 100% tightness. In this case, even slight wear of the rubber will not spoil the functionality of the valve.

Preventive measures against leakage

To prevent a leak in the toilet from occurring at the most inopportune moment, it is worth monitoring the condition and regularly taking preventive measures.

The main and at the same time the simplest thing is to clean all parts, as well as the internal surfaces of the tank. Upon careful examination, you will notice that even in a short time the walls and bottom are covered with a red coating, mineral deposits and even a substance similar to silt. The composition of contaminants depends on the quality of the water.

To minimize the entry of various contaminants into the tank, the internal wiring must be equipped with filters. They are installed on the cold water supply next to the riser

From time to time it is advisable to check the condition of the sealing elements, fasteners and parts that are located at the joints in order to anticipate the occurrence of a strong leak. A small amount of moisture indicates that the connection is leaking. Accordingly, you need to tighten the nuts or replace the seal.

Timely minor repairs and regular cleaning will save you from leaking water into the toilet, and therefore from unnecessary costs. An important factor that ensures saving water, clogging and breakdowns is competent execution, the specifics of which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The best plumbing repair advisors are experienced home professionals. The results of their work can be seen in the following videos.

Video #1. Instructions for replacing fittings:

Video #2. How to avoid buying a new set of fittings:

Video #3. Replacing an old float with a new model:

All work related to cleaning or replacing drain fittings can be done independently. If you cannot find a breakdown, but you urgently need to fix the leak, you can simply install new fittings - the cost is low.

It is advisable to contact plumbers in one case: if you tried to correct the situation on your own, but failed for some reason.

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