No garden is complete without a bed of garlic. This is not only a necessary seasoning, but also an invaluable assistant in the fight against flu and colds. Growing garlic and caring for it can be done by any gardener; you just need to know its preferences well and follow all agricultural techniques.

To get a good harvest of this crop, not much is required:

• high-quality and healthy planting material;
• loose fertile soil;
• timely landing;
• proper watering and fertilizing;
• compliance with cleaning deadlines.

Selection of planting material

If you are planting cloves from your own harvest from last year, then you need to choose only the largest heads for seeds. They should not have double teeth or double tips - these are signs of degeneration. Teeth with external damage and traces of disease are not suitable for planting. Before planting spring garlic cloves, they need to be prepared: vernalized and germinated.

• vernalization - kept in the refrigerator (not in the freezer!) for a month;
• germination - place in a damp cloth, wrap in a bag and keep in the vegetable section of the refrigerator until the beginnings of roots appear.

The yield from prepared planting material will be higher. To disinfect it, the heads with the rudiments of the roots, disassembled into cloves, are soaked in an ash solution or in a solution of potassium permanganate. To prepare an ash solution, boil 400 g of ash in 2 liters of water for half an hour. The teeth are placed in the cooled solution for 2 hours.

To prepare a solution of potassium permanganate, a teaspoon of the drug is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of warm water. Exposure time – 10 hours. The prepared cloves are planted on the beds.

Planting spring garlic in open ground

Prepared and germinated seed of spring garlic is planted in the ground in early spring.

Soil and site preparation

Growing garlic begins with preparing the soil. This procedure is carried out in the fall. The place for the plants needs a sunny place; in the shade the leaves will also grow, but you won’t get a good head. Spring garlic prefers loose fertile light or medium loamy soils with sufficient humus content. The soil reaction should be neutral or slightly acidic.

In the fall, when digging, they add it to each square. m:

• 0.5 buckets of humus or well-ripened compost;
• 2-3 cups of ash;
• 15 g of complex mineral fertilizer.

Immediately before planting, the bed is loosened, but not dug up. It should have a flat surface so that all planted teeth are at the same level.

Then plant garlic

The correct precursors for spring garlic are very important. Plant health largely depends on them. It is best to plant spring garlic cloves after any pumpkin crops. They do not have common pests and diseases, and after harvesting the beds remain well manured, the soil is loose and fertile. Good predecessors are grains, greens or legumes. But you can return garlic to its original place or plant it after onions only after 4 years. The proximity of beds with garlic and peas and beans is undesirable. Their secretions do not like each other, and the yield of all crops will be low.

How and when to plant

Spring garlic is planted only in spring. When planted in winter, it can easily freeze. However, this representative of alliums is not afraid of frost, so it is planted as soon as the earth has warmed up to 5 degrees, but has still fully retained moisture after the snow has melted. Spring garlic grows roots better at low temperatures, so you can’t be late with planting dates. They depend not only on the growing region, but also on the weather.

Planting method: form grooves about 4 cm deep in the bed, into which the cloves are carefully placed with the roots down. They cannot be pressed into the ground - the fragile root primordia are easily damaged, and then you will have to wait a very long time for seedlings. Ideally, the orientation of the rows will be from west to east - this way they will receive the most light.

Planting scheme

The cloves are planted shallowly, sprinkled with a 2 cm thick layer of earth. The distance between small cloves is about 8 cm, and between large cloves - up to 12 cm. The row from the row should be at a distance of 25 cm. It is good to mulch the plantings with a layer of humus 3-4 cm thick It will provide the plants with additional nutrition and protect the soil from drying out.

Winter garlic: nuances of growing

This type of garlic boasts large heads. In some varieties, the cloves weigh 12 g or more. Even from the name it is clear that it is planted before winter. After planting, the cloves should have time to take root before frost, but not sprout. Usually they need 1-1.5 months for this. Therefore, planting dates are calculated based on the onset of a frosty period in a given region.

What does winter garlic prefer:

• light sandy loam soil, rich in humus and retains moisture well;
• location with lighting throughout the day;
• a bed prepared in advance, for each square. m to which a bucket of humus, 25 g of nitrophoska and superphosphate are added.

Winter garlic is planted 2-3 cm deeper than spring garlic; the technology and planting scheme do not differ significantly. But there are differences in the preparation of planting material. Like spring garlic, the largest cloves are selected for planting, but they do not need vernalization. It is also not necessary to germinate it, but it is necessary to treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate or an ash extract. This is done in the same way as with spring garlic cloves. It is best to mulch the plantings with peat or humus in case of severe frosts without snow.

In the spring, the first thing to do is loosen the beds with hatched seedlings. To prevent the tips of the leaves from turning yellow, loosening can be combined with foliar fertilizing with a solution of nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of st. spoon per 10 liters of water. In cold soil, roots do not work well and do not absorb nitrogen. Rapidly growing foliage lacks it, so the tips of the leaves turn yellow.

Winter varieties are divided into bolting and non-bolting. The first ones release a flower arrow, but do not form seeds, but airy bulbs. If they are not needed for subsequent propagation, the arrows are broken off as soon as they begin to curl, leaving a stump of 1 cm. 1-2 arrows should be left as beacons. Cracking of the cover on the formed bulbs will serve as a signal for harvesting.

Outdoor care

Like onions, garlic has not lost the habits it acquired while growing in its natural habitat: spring and early summer, rich in moisture from melting mountain snows, contribute to the formation of green mass. The dry period coming in summer is a signal for the formation of a bulb or head. The mode of watering garlic in the beds should take this feature into account.

Watering

In the absence of rain, watering should be regular. It is done as the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 2-3 cm. The root layer should be completely wet. Stop watering 3-4 weeks before harvesting, allowing the head to gain weight appropriate to the variety.

Fertilizer and feeding

If garlic grows on fertile soil, and the bed was well filled with nutrients before sowing, then a good harvest can be obtained without additional nutrition. Otherwise, you can’t do without fertilizing. At different stages of development, garlic's need for nutrients is different.

• When growing green mass, plants need nitrogen most of all. It can be given in the form of root dressings with solutions of ammonium nitrate or urea. The fertilizer is diluted in accordance with the instructions, usually Art. spoon on a bucket. Most often, two feedings are practiced: the first at the emergence stage, the second when 3-4 leaves are formed. Per sq. m of bed, 2-3 liters of solution is enough. If the soil is fertile, one feeding is enough.
• The third feeding is carried out 2 weeks after the second with a complete complex fertilizer - Art. spoon on a bucket of water. Per sq. m of bed, pour 3-4 liters of solution.
• The last feeding is carried out at the stage of bulb formation. At this time, plants most need phosphorus and potassium. It’s good to pour ash under them and loosen them. To enrich the soil with phosphorus, dissolve 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate in hot water. When it cools down, pour it onto the square. m 3-4 l of solution.

Each liquid fertilizing is combined with watering with clean water. The next day the beds are loosened.

The following agrotechnical technique will help to obtain larger heads: 3-4 weeks before harvesting, the soil from the bulbs is carefully raked into the aisles, exposing them completely. This creates freedom for growth, which increases the yield.

Harvesting garlic

It is better not to delay harvesting the garlic, otherwise the heads will crack and will be stored worse. The signal for harvesting is lodging of shoots and yellowing of the lower leaves. A cracked cover sac on the left beacons will also tell you that it’s time to harvest the crop. Do not dig up garlic ahead of schedule. Unripe bulbs will not only be smaller in size than they could be, but will also be stored worse. After harvesting, the garlic is dried in the garden for several hours, and then dried in the shade in a well-ventilated place.

The harvesting period for winter garlic is July, and spring garlic is September. It is removed after the leaves have completely yellowed.

Features of reproduction

Spring garlic reproduces only vegetatively - by cloves. Winter garlic can also be propagated. But bolting varieties have another opportunity: sowing aerial bulbs, the so-called bulbs. They are formed at the end of each arrow. When growing garlic from bulbs, the seed material becomes healthier. In the first year, they grow into single-toothed bulbs - bulbs consisting of one tooth. They are used for autumn planting along with traditional cloves and produce a good harvest of large and healthy bulbs.

Sowing winter garlic bulbs

They can be sown in autumn or spring. Sowing time depends on the size of the bulbs. Large aerial bulbs can be stored in the room until spring, small ones will simply dry out, and in the soil they will survive the winter well. The bulbs are collected when they acquire the appropriate color for the variety and the seed sac bursts. It is better to select the largest specimens for planting. Prepare a bed for sowing in the same way as for winter garlic. Sowing dates are the whole of September and the beginning of October. Sowing pattern: 10 cm between rows and 2-3 between bulbs. They are laid out to a depth of about 3 cm. To prevent the crops from freezing, it is better to mulch them. The easiest way is to sprinkle the beds with a 2-3 cm layer of humus. Caring for crops in spring and summer is no different from that for winter garlic.

Diseases and pests: control methods

Despite the large amount of phytoncides, this plant is also susceptible to disease and can be attacked by pests.

Table: diseases and pests of garlic.

Pest or disease	How it manifests itself	How to fight
Root and quadruped mites	Lagging of the bottom of the onion and its rotting, ulcers on the cloves	Maintaining crop rotation, heating garlic at 40 degrees after harvest, careful selection of seed
Onion fly	The larvae eat away some of the cloves, the tips of the garlic feathers turn yellow	Joint planting with carrots, dusting the beds with ash and tobacco dust or ground hot pepper, watering with a salt solution of 1 glass per 10 liters of water, watering with mullein infusion or urea solution
Nematodes	The green stem is bent, the heads are loose, the integumentary scales lag behind	Maintaining crop rotation, disinfection of planting material
Fusarium	Caused by a fungus, the stems lose leaves that dry out. Pale pink or white traces of mycelium on the bulb and stem	Treatment of seed material and soil with fungicides: Hom, Fitosporin, Maxim
Rust	Rusty spots on leaves, developmental delays, meager harvest	Treatment of seed and beds with fungicides
Downy mildew	The upper part of the stem turns yellow and dries out, growth slows down	Warming up the harvested crop and seed material in bright sun at a temperature of about 40 degrees, treating with fungicides: Thiram, Polycarbacin
Bacteriosis	Yellowish-brown wounds on teeth	Do not harvest the crop until it is fully ripe; treat the beds with Hom.

Types and varieties of garlic

Garlic is divided into two groups, which differ not only in shelf life, bulb structure and growing season, but also in planting time. Spring garlic is characterized by lower yields, but it is stored almost until the new harvest. Its teeth are smaller and arranged in a spiral. Winter garlic has a central core around which the cloves are grouped; spring garlic does not have one.

Winter varieties

Gribovsky anniversary.

There are 11 cloves in the onion. Its average weight is about 40 g. The taste is pungent. Ripening time is later. The variety is bolting. The color of the covering scales is purple.

Gribovsky - 60.

An early ripening variety that produces shoots. The onion with a pungent taste consists of 11 cloves and weighs 40-60 g. The covering scales are reddish with a purple tint.

Komsomolets.

The variety is bolting, the covering scales are pink-violet. There are from 7 to 11 cloves in the bulb. It has a pungent taste.

Danilovsky local.

Doesn't give an arrow. In a large onion with purple covering scales, the number of cloves ranges from 6 to 11.

Spring varieties

Gulliver.

Produces very large bulbs weighing up to 115 g. The scales are gray, the taste is sharp, and ripening is late.

Elenovsky.

The variety is frost-resistant, the heads weigh 35 g. Ripens in the middle period. Can be stored for up to 2 years.

Sochi.

The variety ripens early. Bulbs weighing up to 45 g with white scales, excellent taste. Can be stored for 1.5 years.

Victorio.

The taste is semi-sharp. An onion can have up to 13 cloves, weighs about 40 g, and has a shelf life of up to 8 months.

Garlic has a long tradition of use, both as a spicy seasoning that complements the taste of many dishes, and as a preventive and therapeutic agent for many diseases.

Garlic is a very healthy product. Daily consumption of cloves in small quantities can have a beneficial effect on increasing the protective functions of the body. Therefore, most gardeners are happy to plant it in their beds. Read about how to choose the right winter garlic for planting, prepare the bed and plant it before winter in the fall.

Garlic, according to its characteristics, is classified into spring and winter. The differences in them are that the first is planted in the spring, and the second in the fall before winter.

However, for example, spring garlic is more often planted due to the possibility of its longer storage, but winter garlic is by no means inferior to its competitor, having the following advantages:

1. In spring there are many different worries, but in autumn there is much more time. The timing of planting winter garlic in the fall is not strictly fixed, so planting work can be extended over a long period.
2. Winter garlic is not afraid of either the first frost or severe winter., much less the return of spring temperature drops. While the tender leaves of spring garlic in the spring can be destroyed by a sharp drop in temperature.
3. Planting material in the autumn months boasts larger sizes than spring specimens. The larger the planting material, the larger the harvest you will ultimately get (direct relationship). While spring seedlings often dry out by the time of sowing.
4. Winter species are immune to diseases and pests, which cannot be said about spring specimens.
5. Planting garlic before winter does not require special care. In the autumn, the soil is saturated with a sufficient amount of moisture, allowing it to overwinter well in the cold months.
6. Harvesting occurs earlier than during spring planting. Which suggests that in the summer months only representatives of winter varieties are present on store shelves.
7. Planting in autumn gives a larger harvest than spring rooting.

By the way! You can see how winter garlic differs externally from spring garlic in the picture diagram below.

Thus, planting garlic in the fall before winter is considered a very profitable business, bringing a generous harvest. However, for everything to work out, you need to know the timing of the start of planting work.

When to plant garlic in the fall - in what month: optimal timing

The timing of planting garlic in the fall directly depends on the characteristics of the climatic zone in which you live and are going to plant cloves, as well as on current weather conditions.

As a rule, winter garlic begins to be planted 2-3 weeks before frost, so that during this time it has time to take root.

In garlic during this period only the root system needs to develop, but no way not aboveground green mass.

The optimal soil temperature for planting garlic is +10-12 degrees, but lower temperatures are also allowed, but planting in frozen ground is absolutely prohibited.

If we distinguish planting periods by region, the following dates for planting garlic in the fall are recommended:

1. Middle zone (Moscow region) - end of September - first half of October.
2. Southern regions – end of October-November.
3. Northern regions (Siberia, Ural) – second half of September, deadline – first half of October.

Interesting! Each gardener is guided by his own observations. Some, for example, are absolutely sure that the best garlic is obtained if it is planted before the holiday of the Intercession. Others, on the contrary, try to plant on sunny days after the holiday.

Thus, garlic should be planted in the fall and, above all, based on the weather.

How to plant winter garlic in the fall - features and step-by-step instructions

To get a harvest consisting of large, whole and even cloves, you must first decide on a place for planting, prepare a bed, soil for planting cloves, choose good planting material and properly prepare and process the winter garlic itself for planting.

Landing location

The place where winter garlic will be planted is selected in advance. The culture is a plant that loves sunlight very much. Therefore, it must be planted in open areas, not shaded, for example, by fruit trees.

An excellent place to plant garlic would be a small mound or raised bed (for example, a warm bed). If it is placed in a lowland, then when the snow melts in the spring, the plantings will be flooded, and the seedlings may rot because of this.

The best predecessors for planting winter garlic: rules of crop rotation

Note! Naturally, if you want to get a rich harvest of winter garlic, then you need to plant it, like any vegetables, according to the rules of crop rotation. About, After which crops is it better to plant winter garlic? read .

Preparing beds and soil for planting winter garlic

Preparation of the bed where winter garlic will be planted begins about a month before the start of planting work.

Interesting! Make a bed for winter garlic in advance so that the soil in it settles a little.

As for the location in the garden, then, as was already said earlier, It is optimal to place the bed in a sunny place from north to south.

Next, on the planned site you need dig up the soil to a depth of about 20-30 cm (shovel bayonet), removing all weeds and other debris, and then add fertilizer to improve soil fertility.

The soil for growing winter garlic needs to be loose, soft, and filled with nutrients. The spicy vegetable loves soil that has excellent air and water permeability, and most importantly, has a neutral acidity level (pH).

You should not choose a place where the soil is clayey, dense or overly acidic. Sandy substrates are suitable, but to obtain large heads, abundant watering and frequent fertilization are required.

By the way! If the soil is excessively clayey, then you can make it looser by adding peat and sand.

To prepare the soil for planting garlic before winter, organic and/or mineral fertilizers should be added to it.

If you are a supporter of organic farming, then you should add the following fertilizers during digging:

• compost or rotted manure (1 bucket per 1 square meter);
• (1-2 glasses or 100-200 grams per 1 square meter).

By the way! Ash can be poured into a hole or furrow right before planting.

If you allow the use of mineral fertilizers, then add potassium fertilizers:

• (20-30 grams per 1 square meter);
• potassium sulfate (20-30 grams per 1 square meter).

By the way! As an enhanced measure, you can mix organic and mineral fertilizers.

After digging and adding the necessary fertilizers to the soil, the bed is well leveled and left until autumn planting.

Advice! Some gardeners advise additionally protecting and disinfecting the soil by spilling it with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, or. But, in principle, this can be done after landing.

How to choose the right seedlings

You need to choose the largest cloves from the most regular heads, and it is advisable that there are no more than 5-6 pieces in each. If you choose small cloves, you will get very small amounts of garlic.

Important! There should be no rot or mold on the cloves. It is worth carefully inspecting the surface for stains of an unnatural structure. Do not take cloves for rooting that have mechanical damage.

All cloves suitable for planting must be completely “dressed” in the shell, without visible flaws.

Important! The garlic should be divided into cloves immediately before planting (before soaking).

Processing and preparing garlic for planting

Before planting garlic cloves in open ground in the fall, they should first be prepared for planting:

1. Each clove is carefully separated from the others so as not to damage the outer shell and the place where the roots grow (the bottom). Some gardeners recommend lightly cleaning the bottom (from cork deposits) so that it takes root better, but this must be done very carefully so as not to accidentally remove the scales and expose the clove.
2. Next, all cloves must undergo careful sorting. You should get rid of all spoiled ones. If you plant such garlic, it will not only not produce a normal head, but can infect the entire garden bed.

1. You can soak the cloves in the Maxima solution (according to the instructions) for 20-30 minutes.
2. To be sure to pickle and disinfect the garlic, soak it in a solution of “Fundazol” (according to the instructions).
3. A pink solution of potassium permanganate will also work. Again 20-30 minutes.
4. For soaking, you can also use a 1% solution of copper sulfate (10 grams per 1 liter). For the same thing, up to half an hour.
5. Many summer residents recommend keeping the cloves in the solution (according to the instructions) for 5-10 minutes.
6. According to the old tradition, quite often the cloves are soaked in a saline solution (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), kept for half an hour.

Advice! What is the best way to process garlic cloves is decided by each gardener independently. Just for fun, you can try soaking several batches of cloves in different solutions and planting them in separate rows to experiment.

Direct landing and its rules

Basic rules for planting winter garlic:

By the way! Many people like it plant garlic not in grooves, but in separate holes, in other words, plant pointwise. Moreover, it is convenient to make such holes with special devices, or with the neck of a bottle (as in the title photo of the article).

Important! If the cloves are placed too high to the surface, they may freeze out. If, on the contrary, you deepen them too much, they will take too long to germinate or even rot.

Step-by-step instructions for planting garlic in the fall before winter:

1. Decide on a place for planting, while taking into account the rules of crop rotation.
2. Prepare the bed and soil.
3. Select high-quality planting material and treat (soak) it in a disinfectant solution.
4. Cut grooves or holes.
5. Plant the cloves in accordance with the rules.
6. Cover with fertile soil.
7. If desired, for additional disinfection of the soil, you can spill the solution (according to the instructions).
8. Mulch (if you have a cold and harsh climate in the fall).

Video: proper planting of garlic in the fall before winter

Caring for winter garlic after planting

If your winters are very cold, then with the onset of frost, the garden bed mulch sawdust, or laid with pine branches or straw, you can even cover it with spunbond. But in the spring, all the shelter will need to be removed during the first warm days, but the mulch can be left (some people specifically grow garlic in mulch).

If the autumn is dry and there is little precipitation, it is recommended to water the beds a couple of times so that the rooting process goes faster.

Naturally, the main care occurs in the spring. Some time after the snow melts, the first green shoots should already be visible. Watering is not required yet, because after the snow melts, the soil is saturated with a sufficient amount of moisture.

When to harvest winter garlic and how to store it (methods)

Possible mistakes when planting garlic in the fall and when growing it

No matter how experienced a gardener is, he still often makes offensive mistakes that could not have been made if he knew exactly what to pay special attention to.

The following mistakes are identified that are often made when planting garlic in the fall before winter:

• When purchasing planting material, the sellers themselves The names are often confused or even mixed together. Therefore, there is a possibility of buying the wrong garlic in the fall. So, either use your own planting material, or watch what you buy carefully and carefully.
• Planted without a shell. Garlic, like a fish, dies without scales. Many gardeners believe that the shell must be removed. They are of the opinion that scales (or poorly removed old crusts) prevent roots from sprouting. However, in the absence of a shell, the clove soon begins to actively rot.
• Planting takes place immediately after the bed has been dug and prepared. Firstly, when you add mineral and organic additives during digging, they need time to saturate the soil with nutrients. Secondly, the cloves planted during this period, after the ground subsides, will certainly bury themselves too deeply into the soil, which will negatively affect their germination and further growth.
• Planted too early. If you plant early enough - in August, then warm weather will provoke active growth of green shoots. And when cold weather sets in, they will die, which will lead to weakening of the planting material.
• Arrows are not removed in spring. Of course, the final size of the garlic depends on the head of the bulb, but if you leave the arrow that it released in the spring, then all the strength of the head will be used to form bulbs. Therefore, the arrows should be broken off during the period of their formation.

Thus, it is better to plant garlic in the autumn, since during the winter it undergoes natural stratification, allowing the plant to harden in natural conditions and accumulate mass. And then the main thing is to do everything (preparing the bed and soil, processing and planting the cloves themselves) on time and correctly.

Video: everything about planting garlic before winter for huge harvests

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Garlic is a spicy and aromatic vegetable that is used fresh and for preservation. This crop can be grown both in winter and in spring. Find out how to plant garlic in the fall before winter, what variety to choose for this, how to prepare the soil and much more.

The amount of harvest that can be harvested for the next season depends on the timing chosen for the autumn planting of garlic. This is a cold-resistant crop, but, nevertheless, it needs to be planted 3-4 weeks before the onset of cold weather in your region. The timing of planting garlic in the fall should be calculated so that the cloves can grow roots and take root, but do not have time to germinate. In this form, garlic will survive the cold winter well, and in the spring it will begin to grow.

In the middle zone, this time begins from the 20th of September and lasts until mid-October. It is better to choose days when no particular warmth is expected, but the first autumn night frosts are expected. Each year these days may not occur at the same time, so garden work for planting winter garlic must be adjusted.

In the Moscow region, the crop needs to be planted at approximately the same time as in the middle zone; in the Urals, garlic needs to be planted earlier; in the southern regions of the Russian Federation, cloves can be placed in beds even in November.

In general, planting garlic before winter should be associated with weather conditions - if a warm autumn is expected, then this can be done later than the standard deadlines, if it is cold, then vice versa. You need to be especially careful when planting this vegetable before winter in Siberia - it is better to do it earlier, before frost sets in, than to risk the planting material and then worry that it will freeze. You need to plant garlic in this region starting from the second half of September and ending with the first week of October, and then cover the plantings with covering material.

What crops can be planted after: choosing a location

One of the most important and responsible stages in the agricultural technology of this crop is planting garlic in the fall. It is important to choose the most suitable place for him. This culture loves light, fertile (preferably sandy loam), air- and moisture-permeable soil. Its reaction should be neutral; garlic does not like acidic soil.

The place for the beds should be level and well lit by the sun. However, it should not be located in a lowland with groundwater close to the plants and where water stagnates - in wet soil during the winter, plant roots can rot, and during the growing season, excess moisture will provoke the growth of green mass, not bulbs. You should not choose a place for garlic plantings located near outbuildings with pets or poultry, so that they cannot damage them.

The best site for winter garlic in home garden beds is located near the fence on the south side. The fence will protect the plantings from the cold wind, and in winters with little snow, it will keep the snow on the ground. If the site is located in an open area, then in case of a winter with little snow, you need to stock up on good covering material:

• dry leaf;
• peat;
• spruce branches;
• sawdust.

You need to cover the beds only just before frost, and not soon after planting the cloves, so that they do not germinate under the “warm blanket”. The larger the layer of covering material, the colder it is in your region.

The best predecessors for garlic are all pumpkin, nightshade, and legumes with a short growing season. They must be removed from the growing area intended for garlic at least a month before planting, so that after collecting them the soil can recover. For the same reason, you can plant garlic after potatoes only if it belongs to early or mid-early varieties.

But it is better not to plant garlic after carrots and other autumn root vegetables - since they are harvested late, the soil will not have time to renew its resources by the time of planting. It is possible to plant a crop in the same place only after 3 years, just as it can be placed where its relative, the onion, grew.

Preparing the bed

Preparing a bed for winter garlic should be given no less attention than choosing the place where the crop will grow. After all, the quality of the resulting harvest depends on the structure and composition of the soil. Preparation of the bed for planting garlic before winter begins 3-4 weeks before the expected planting date. First, all plant residues are removed from them, then the soil is dug up, leveled and fertilizers are applied:

1. Over an area of ​​1 m2 of loam, distribute 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, superphosphate, 1 glass of dolomite flour. Or add organic matter - 1 bucket of humus or compost, 2 tbsp. ash.
2. The same is applied to the sandy ones, but 1 more bucket of peat is added.
3. Clays are also enriched with peat, adding 1 bucket of this fertilizer to each m2.

According to the planting rules, fresh manure is not used - it leads to the fact that the garlic begins to hurt and is more susceptible to pests. On the finished bed, the soil is treated before planting with a disinfectant solution of copper sulfate. To do this, dissolve 50 g of this substance in a bucket of water. The resulting solution is poured over the entire soil, and then covered with film.

Choosing a variety and preparing garlic for planting

For planting before winter, only winter varieties of garlic are suitable. It is quite easy to distinguish it from spring garlic - it has large, uniform cloves located around the arrow in 1 row. This garlic is a shooter, it shoots out a shoot on which small bulbs ripen (they can also be planted in the beds in the fall).

You need to choose a variety of garlic that suits your climatic conditions. For example, Ukrainian varieties have good winter hardiness:

1. Ukrainian white - produces heads weighing 50-140 g, with the number of cloves in them - from 4 to 12 pieces. The shooter does not give, but is well stored.
2. Spas – heads 60-100 g, 7-9 cloves each. The variety is high-yielding, immune to fusarium and nematodes, and is excellently stored.
3. Lyubasha - the variety tolerates cold and summer heat well. The average weight of the head is 70-100 g, the number of teeth is 7 pcs. The harvest can be stored for up to 10 months without losing its appearance and quality during storage.
4. Violet Kharkov - heads weighing 30-60 g, with no more than 6 cloves.

The varieties of Russian, Soviet and Dutch selection are also quite good: Yubileiny 07 and Yubileiny Gribovsky, Nadezhny, Skif, Garpek, Komsomolets, Messidor. They are distinguished by their sharp and semi-sharp taste, resistance to major garlic diseases, excellent yield, and excellent keeping quality.

They prepare garlic for planting before winter by sorting it out and discarding cloves that are sick, of poor quality, too small, or with superficial injuries. For disinfection, healthy teeth are soaked for 2 hours in solutions:

• ash (0.4 kg of ash per 2 liters of hot water, left for 30 minutes);
• potassium permanganate (dark pink);
• saline (3 tablespoons per 5 liters of warm water);
• copper sulfate (1 tsp per bucket of water);
• drug "Fitosporin-M".

After drying, they are ready for planting.

Technology for planting garlic before winter

In the cultivated and prepared beds, long grooves with a depth of 15-20 cm are made - this is exactly the depth at which garlic must be planted for the winter. The distance between the garlic rows is left at 25-30 cm. A small layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the grooves - this will reduce the risk of roots rotting in the soil in winter.

At what distance the cloves should be planted depends on their size. Between large ones you need to maintain a distance of 8-10 cm, between those that are smaller - 5-7 cm is enough. If planting garlic before winter is done in bulbs, use a different scheme: leave 2 cm in the rows between them, 10 cm in the rows. Bury small garlic 3 cm into the ground. In the summer, they will grow into round, single-pronged onions that can be used to plant winter garlic in the fall.

Planting material is always placed vertically, bottoms down, and not simply placed in the ground. After embedding cloves or bulbs into the ground, they are covered with earth and sprinkled with a small layer of peat or sawdust (no thicker than 2 cm). There is no need to water newly planted garlic.

Care after landing

In the spring, as soon as it gets warm, cover material or mulch is removed from the beds so that the seedlings can quickly make their way to the top. Water the garlic for the first time as soon as the soil dries out and while it is growing green mass, do not spare water. When the heads begin to ripen, watering is reduced, and if the weather is rainy, they are stopped completely. After each watering, the soil is loosened, weeding at the same time. This must be done carefully so as not to harm the developing heads and roots. To reduce the number of waterings and weedings, you can mulch the grown garlic with hay, straw, and sawdust from deciduous trees.

You need to feed the plants first with fertilizers containing N, and then P and K. You can use both ready-made mineral mixtures and organic matter, to which garlic responds very well. For mineral fertilizers, use saltpeter (20 g per bucket of water); for organic fertilizers, use an infusion of fresh manure (1 to 10). Start fertilizing as soon as the green sprouts have reached a height of approximately 10 cm. After a month, carry out another fertilizing - this time water the plants with an ash solution (200 g of ash per bucket of water).

When the plants throw out arrows, break them off without waiting for them to become coarse. This allows you to get larger heads and speed up their maturation. Leave the arrows only if you need to get bulbs to refresh the variety.

Garlic that is planted before winter is called winter garlic. It differs from spring (planted in spring) garlic not only in the timing of planting, but also in appearance. Many summer residents choose the winter variety due to the large size of the heads and large cloves. To get a high-quality harvest, planting garlic before winter should be carried out using a certain technology and in compliance with deadlines.

The timing of autumn planting of garlic directly depends on the depth of planting of the cloves. Most often, the tines are buried 3-5 cm into the ground. Such surface planting should be carried out 2-3 weeks before the expected frost. In regions with a cool climate, they prefer to plant garlic at a greater depth - 10-15 cm. The planting time also depends on the weather conditions of a particular area.

In outskirts of Moscow

The climate of the Moscow region is temperate continental, with pronounced seasonality. The middle zone is characterized by warm summers, moderately cold winters, and sufficient snow cover. In recent years, there has also been a general trend of strong warming. Winter in the Moscow region began to come later, severe frosts became less and less frequent and thaws became more and more frequent.

The maximum amount of precipitation occurs in the summer season; in winter, strong winds blow with a predominance of the northern, western, and southwestern directions. In fact, winter in this area lasts 5 months. Snow cover appears in November and disappears by early April. Taking into account weather changes, planting garlic before winter in this region should be done from September 20 to October 10. In more southern regions the deadline is extended until November.

The length of the Urals from north to south is more than 2000 km. It is clear that the climate of the northern and southern Ural regions is very different.

• In the Northern Urals, it is recommended to begin planting winter garlic in mid-September. If autumn weather sets in earlier, then you need to plant garlic in early September.
• For the Southern Urals, planting dates are shifted to the first ten days of October. Adjustments may be made by weather conditions.

On a note! A popular belief says that the time to plant garlic is when the birds begin to fly south for the winter.

In the climatic conditions of Siberia, the right time for planting winter garlic is from September 15 to October 5. If you plant the cloves at this time, before frost they will have time to take root and form fairly long roots without the formation of leaves. It is better to plant garlic to a depth of about 10 cm. After this, the bed is well watered - this increases the winter hardiness of the crop.

The climate of the Leningrad region is considered special. It is characterized by unstable weather conditions, which is due to frequent changes in air masses. Dry and very cold arctic air comes from the Kara Sea. Cyclones with cloudy, windy weather and precipitation arrive from the western direction.

Sometimes weather conditions change dramatically even within one day, and it is very difficult for weather forecasters to predict these changes. In addition to weather fluctuations, the region is characterized by strong winds, including squalls, blizzards, snowfalls, fogs, severe frosts and intense heat, droughts and floods.

For planting in the Leningrad region, you should take zoned varieties of winter garlic. These include: German, Dobrynya, Alcor, Podmoskovny, Novosibirsk, Replicant.

The deadline for planting winter garlic can be considered the end of September. In the south of the Leningrad region, planting can be carried out a week earlier, in colder parts of the region - a week later.

The roots of the plant are poorly developed; they begin to grow at slightly above-zero temperatures. This process occurs within 1.5 months after planting. Once garlic takes root, it can withstand winter frosts. This is why the plant needs a certain amount of time before frost begins.

Garlic is planted using separate cloves. Preparatory work includes dividing the head into individual cloves, followed by sorting the planting material and processing it. Garlic cloves can be large, medium or small. Their size should be taken into account when planting. Large cloves are buried by 8-10 cm, smaller ones by 6 cm.

Planting material must be clean and healthy, without damage. If a batch prepared for planting contains too many cloves with spots and signs of rot, it should be completely replaced.

Important! Do not use for planting heads that contain only 3-4 teeth. Such a small number of segments indicates the degeneration of the culture.

The garlic must be completely dried so that it does not grow. Its bottom is normally light gray in color. In order for the crop to grow well in the spring and be resistant to diseases, it is recommended to carry out pre-planting treatment. This can be done in one of the following ways:

1. Soaking garlic in a pink solution of potassium permanganate before planting for 30-60 minutes.
2. Treatment with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. It is more convenient to soak the garlic cloves in the evening and plant them in the morning.
3. Disinfection with saline solution: 3 tbsp. spoons of salt are dissolved in 5 liters of water and the garlic is soaked for 3 minutes, then dipped in a solution of copper sulfate for 1 minute and immediately planted.
4. Processing can be done in stages. First, the garlic is soaked in a nitroammophoska solution for one day, then in a strong salt solution for up to 30 minutes. The third solution should contain 1 tbsp. a spoonful of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, soak the garlic in it for one minute.
5. Using ash solution: 1 tbsp. A spoonful of ash is mixed in a liter of water.
6. Soaking in a solution of the drug "Maxim", which is considered a natural antibiotic and protects plants from many diseases. For treatment, one ampoule of the drug per liter of water is used. Pickle the garlic in the solution for 30 minutes.
7. Fitolavin treatment. The product protects the crop from bacterial and fungal diseases, root rot.
8. Application of Fitosporin-M. This fungicide is often used for pre-sowing preparation of garlic - it increases the plant’s immunity and makes it resistant to disease. Fitosporin-M is diluted according to the instructions. The teeth are soaked in it for 1 hour.

In addition to preparing planting material, you should also prepare the bed in advance. The further development and growth of culture will depend on the quality of the land.

Preparing the beds

Experienced summer residents who plant garlic before winter year after year have their own secrets for planting and caring for this crop. Listen to their recommendations:

• You should avoid planting garlic in places with high groundwater levels, otherwise in the spring, with the arrival of warmth, the vegetable will simply be washed away by their flows.
• The crop is not planted in soil that was previously fertilized with manure. Otherwise, the plant will have lush tops and frail heads. Plus, garlic grown on manured soil often suffers from fungal diseases.
• Only when planted after the correct predecessors can large heads be obtained. If it is impossible to maintain crop rotation, first plant Vicia sativa peas in the garden bed. This plant is an excellent green manure that will enrich the soil with compost, loosen it and disinfect it.
• Before winter, it is best to plant the purple-striped variety, which is better adapted to winter cold than others, is unpretentious and stores well.
• The earlier you plant garlic, the deeper it should be planted.
• Ideally, garlic should be grown annually. You can return it to the same bed no earlier than after 5 years.

When and how to plant garlic before winter: video

Planting garlic before winter: video

Compliance with all of the above rules will provide you with large and strong heads of the spicy vegetable. Be sure to grow garlic in your garden. Due to its beneficial properties, it will prolong your youth, preserve your health and beauty, and add bright shades of taste to prepared dishes.

Good afternoon, dear guests and blog readers!

I think everyone knows how difficult it is to do without this vegetable crop in the kitchen, because it gives dishes an exquisite, piquant taste and refined aroma. And probably everyone has heard about the beneficial properties, even children. Therefore, it is simply a must have in every home!

Many will say that you can buy garlic in the supermarket, nice and neat, and you don’t even need to bother. But we don’t know where and under what conditions it was grown, or what fertilizers it was fed with. And for lovers of agriculture, it is a sacred thing to grow everything with your own hands. Therefore, I propose to grow your own large, juicy and tasty vegetable.

When planting, it is extremely important to follow the biological processes of the surrounding nature. Therefore, I propose to focus on these very processes, favorable dates according to the lunar calendar and, of course, take into account the climatic conditions of your region. And also follow the rules of soil cultivation, planting and care. Then you will have a huge harvest that your neighbors will be jealous of (just kidding) - they will be delighted!

Today we will plant winter crops with cloves and in the summer we will collect gifts. This variety is planted before winter (autumn), it will take root well and grow all winter, without requiring much labor. Now is the time to plant, so I suggest you read all the recommendations and tips that are collected in the article and feel free to get down to business...

And remember, the main rule is to love the land, and then you will reap incredible harvests!

When to plant winter garlic before winter 2019 to reap a good harvest?

The climatic conditions of a particular region directly affect the timing of planting garlic in winter. And accordingly, it is not possible to determine the exact planting date. But choosing a period of time that will favorably affect the work is quite possible.

Every gardener, I’m sure, knows that in order for a vegetable to successfully overwinter, the seed must be sufficiently rooted. It gained nutrients and in no case sprouted before frost.

To strengthen the garlic cloves, 2-3 weeks are enough.

From the above, we can draw the following conclusion - you need to plant piquant cloves 15-20 days before frost (2-3 weeks). And the air temperature should be stable and not higher than +13- +15 °C. Optimum temperature +10 - +12°C.

Check the weather report in advance to ensure there is no warming, otherwise the plant will germinate before winter and die from frost.

If you look at the lunar sowing calendar for October 2019, then favorable days for sowing:

And the southern regions plant this crop in November and December; favorable dates for planting:

• November - 1, 2, 3, 11, 24, 28, 29, 30.
• December - 1-14, 17.

But it should also be noted that there are unfavorable days in October, on which it is not recommended to work with plants:

If you plant on these “bad” days, you shouldn’t expect a good harvest. The plant may grow poorly, turn yellow, become sick, or even rot.

How to properly plant a plant in the fall in open ground so that garlic grows large

We have figured out favorable planting dates, now I propose to consider how to plant the plant correctly in order to reap a good harvest. In fact, everything is very simple, garlic itself is not a fancy crop. But there are a number of rules that must be followed when growing. I propose to consider everything in order, from soil preparation to harvesting.

After which crops should winter garlic be planted in the fall?

Absolutely every crop that is grown on our site absorbs useful and nutritious substances. Accordingly, after some time the soil becomes depleted. In this regard, it is recommended that before planting a new crop, plant a plant that will restore the fertility of the land. This agricultural technique is called fruit replacement; it prevents complete depletion of soil reserves.

Our hero has a short root system and when grown, it significantly depletes the top layer of soil. Therefore, before this, it is best to plant plants with a long root system that will feed from the deep layers of the earth.

The best predecessors are grain crops (besides barley and oats), as these are super green manures that improve the quality of the soil. The crop will also grow well after clover and alfalfa (forage grasses), zucchini and squash.

But there are also plants after which you cannot plant: carrots, beets, potatoes, onions.

I know that many are still faced with the question - is it possible to plant garlic after garlic? It is possible, but not advisable! After all, if you grow in the same area, pests and pathogens will remain. Therefore, if the territory allows you, then grow in different places.

Follow crop rotation and planting rules, then you will definitely have an excellent harvest!

Preparing the soil before planting, how to fertilize the soil?

You need to prepare the land for planting in advance, at least two weeks, and preferably a month. You need to choose a sunny place in which water does not stagnate, and then the plant will receive enough light and will not die from excess moisture.

Try to plant from north to south, this is the most optimal location.

Our main character prefers soft, loose soil filled with nutrients. So that the soil is perfectly permeable to air and water and has neutral acidity. Therefore, you immediately need to clear the area of ​​debris and weeds. Then dig deep (18-20 cm) and apply fertilizer:

Then level the dug up area and compact it a little.

Do not plant in soil that is too dense, acidic or clayey. However, clay soil can be made loose by adding sand or peat.

Preparing beds for planting garlic in the fall

We have already found out above that garlic will not grow in places where water stagnates at the roots. Therefore, you need to choose a place for planting where water from rain will not accumulate. If there is no particular choice, then it is worth equipping the bed with an edging made of slate, brick, boards or plastic.

The height of such a structure should not exceed 20 cm.

A high bed will not allow rain to wash away the soil and will be well and quickly warmed up by the spring sun

You can make such a claptrap of earth in an embankment without “sides”, but with a fence it is still more effective.

When the bed is prepared, we “forget” about it until planting. During this time, the soil will be fairly compacted, which is what we need.

How to treat cloves before planting

Before planting, the head is disassembled into cloves, only large, whole, dry and undamaged cloves are selected.

I would like to once again emphasize to you that the head is disassembled before planting, right in the garden bed, and not a week or month earlier.

Before planting this vegetable with a piquant taste, it must be disinfected. There are several processing options:

1. Immerse overnight in a weak solution of potassium permanganate,
2. Soak the cloves overnight in a 1% solution of copper sulfate in a proportion of 1 teaspoon per 1 bucket of water,
3. Dilute the solution 3 tbsp. spoons of kitchen salt in 1/2 teaspoon of water, lower the garlic for 2 minutes, then immediately lower it into a solution of copper sulfate for 1 minute (see proportions in point No. 2). After all these manipulations, rinse the cloves in clean water and plant them in the ground.

Before planting, the cloves must be dried from moisture.

Which option to choose is up to you, but I strongly recommend that you disinfect the planting material.

Scheme for planting garlic in open ground: at what depth and at what distance to plant

The scheme for planting a winter vegetable is approximately as follows: furrows are made lengthwise at a distance of 25 cm - 35 cm from each other, the depth of which is 6-8 cm (the size of the clove also plays a very important role, it is necessary that there is a distance of 4-5 cm from the surface of the soil to the clove .). And the cloves sprouted at a distance of about 8-10 cm from each other (palm length). Make the holes with the equipment that is convenient for you, these can be pegs, a hoe, a garden trowel).

Take care and sprinkle a small amount of wood ash into each hole - this is the best fertilizer for garlic for the whole winter.

When you have prepared the planting material, you need to carefully place the cloves on the bottom of the hole and sprinkle with earth. Do not press the clove as it may be damaged.

When to water

It is not worth watering in the fall, because it is already a rainy time. And the plant cannot grow rapidly so that frost does not hit it.

If possible, mulch the bed with a layer of sawdust or dried grass; mulch will protect the crops from severe frosts by retaining moisture in the ground.

Processing and feeding garlic in spring

Spring feeding is an important stage in growing, which is difficult to overestimate. And proper application of fertilizers will increase the harvest several times!

Without fertilizing, this aromatic crop may turn yellow or become lethargic.

Wood ash for garlic is a source of nutrition and a preventative against diseases.

And one more important point: if you planted a variety that forms an arrow, then you will need to cut it off later. Otherwise, the plant will grow small and the yield will decrease by about a third. And if you leave these air arrows until ripening, then you will get excellent seed material.

You don't have to throw away the shoots; you can make a delicious snack out of them!

When to harvest (dig up) garlic planted in winter

This crop ripens in about 110 days from the date of germination, but even during the ripening period weather conditions play a huge role.

The main signs by which you can determine that garlic is ripe:

• No new stems appear
• Existing leaves turn yellow
• The arrows straighten, and the seed pod turns purple,
• The cervix becomes dry

You need to dig in clear sunny weather, in the morning or evening, so that the sun does not scorch the heads. Do not pull out the bulbs, otherwise you will damage them. Dig with a shovel or pitchfork.

Some gardeners not only plant this vigorous vegetable according to the lunar calendar, but also dig it up.

In 2019, harvesting of winter garlic on the moon occurs from July 18-31 and August from 16-29. However, you need to look at the visual signs of maturity, and the phases of the Moon in our case are just hints, and not a clear recommendation.

It is also very important to dry the vegetable well after removing it from the ground. If the weather is sunny, everything will take about two days. You can dry it directly in the garden, just cover it with dew film or bring it indoors at night.

How to plant garlic from bulbs in the fall?

I think it’s no secret that seeding material needs to be periodically renewed so that vegetable diseases do not accumulate. Planting bulbs is a wonderful way to get a healthy harvest.

However, there is one feature of this growing method: the harvest will only be in the second year, and not the next. Because in the first year a clove will grow from the bulb, and in the second year a full-fledged head will grow from the clove.

For a more detailed planting process, I suggest watching the video, where the author explains in detail how and what needs to be done to grow large garlic from bulbs.

Planting winter garlic in different regions of Russia (Moscow region, Ural, Siberia)

Each region of Russia has its own planting dates, due to the climate. Let's go through the “correct” dates...

The best time according to the lunar calendar to plant garlic for residents Moscow region October 25-30. But most gardeners plant on October 14, the time before the Day of the Intercession. There is an opinion that a decent harvest will grow if planted on this day.

The best varieties for this region: Messidor, Kharkovsky, Spas, Yubileiny 07, Yubileiny Gribovsky.

For Southern Urals favorable days are October 8 - 12, and residents Northern Urals should be targeted from September 20 to October 6.

Residents Siberia We have already sown the spice in September and are expecting a rich harvest!

How to preserve winter garlic for the winter at home

Winter garlic is quite difficult to preserve until spring; the approximate shelf life is 4-6 months. Therefore, they try to preserve it by all known means for as long as possible. Below I provide a list, read carefully and choose the one that suits you:

• The dried heads are braided and stored in a cool, dry place.
• Storage in nylon tights, cardboard boxes or nets,
• Cold storage
• Sprinkle with salt, flour or onion skins

Optimal conditions: temperature: +2 - +3 C (when stored in the refrigerator); +15 - +20 C (storage in the pantry or kitchen). Humidity: 70 to 80%.

But under no circumstances should you keep this vegetable near heating devices, otherwise the heads will quickly lose moisture and dry out.

This is such an informative article! I hope it will be useful to you, you will use the recommendations and grow a rich harvest of this vegetable crop.