Installing an air conditioner with your own hands Climate control equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, you install an air conditioner yourself. The main condition is to strictly follow the instructions and carry out the work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control unit.
Operating principle of air conditioner, split system
To form a general idea of the organization of the internal structure, and before installing an air conditioner, we recommend considering the operating principle of the system. The climatic unit consists of 2 equivalent units - compressor and evaporation. They are connected to each other with special adapters, pipes and pipes.
The evaporator unit is installed inside the living space, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.
The refrigerant is sent under high pressure to the evaporator section. Then the freon expands, gradually boils and vaporizes. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The climate control system operates with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, the water is removed from the building through a special tube.
During operation, the compressor pumps out freon vapors. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. Dense “fog” is directed into the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition into a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process goes in cycles.
The efficiency and duration of operation of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the device, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit and the climatic characteristics of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which can lead to the device failing. Even ordinary dust can cause damage. Regular wet cleaning is required for the room.
Couplings and joints require sealing in order to eliminate the likelihood of evaporation of freon or other refrigerant. The external unit of the air conditioner is installed in such a way that it is level below the internal part of the unit. The external unit is located in a dark place, away from sunlight.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: tools - complete list
Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive undertaking. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical basis and the availability of the necessary tools. The listed factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.
Taking into account the scope of application, they are divided into several functional groups.
Power tools
Without power tools, installing an air conditioner yourself is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:
- perforator;
- "Bulgarian";
- drill.
A powerful hammer drill is chosen so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which the main line between the indoor and outdoor units is laid. In this case, low-power combined electric drills, which only provide a hammer drill function, are not enough. They are not able to drill through brickwork.
Before installing the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.
For a concrete wall, you will additionally need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.
Measuring tool
Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with mandatory horizontal level control. You can use markers, marking pencils, a construction or laser level. A number of additional equipment will also be required. Air conditioners with installation cannot be securely and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.
Specialized equipment
Specialized tools are necessary for high-quality and efficient operation of climate control equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, industrial vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.
- Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using special solder and a gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to avoid using a conventional hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which can lead to damage to the climate control unit. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer or rolling. Main turns are formed using a pipe bender.
- An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they get inside the device.
- Vacuum pump. The unit dries the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory; without it, the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.
The installation equipment listed is basic. You can’t do without additional consumables - pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.
Installing an air conditioner yourself: step-by-step instructions
Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after purchasing and preparing the necessary equipment, tools and climate control equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed to the external wall, after which the internal work is carried out.
At all stages, it is extremely important to follow safety precautions, especially when it comes to high-rise buildings. Installation of an external unit is one of the most important and critical stages.
Mounting the outdoor unit
Installing a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls of country houses, is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple; the location is selected with special care. When deciding where to install your air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.
There are several basic rules:
- The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window of your apartment neighbors.
- A small tube is used to drain condensate.
- The climate control device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because The equipment requires periodic maintenance.
In 90% of cases, the block is fixed on the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are unspoken rules for installing an air conditioner, mandatory among professionals. If you follow them, reaching the outside of the climate control unit will not be difficult.
- The mounting points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. For reliable fixation, anchor bolts are used.
- To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If there is such an opportunity, then it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.
Metal brackets are installed according to the previously prepared markings, screwing in the bolts as securely as possible. Standard installation of an air conditioner is carried out in such a way that a distance of 10 cm is maintained between the climate unit and the outer wall. The gaps are sealed at the final stage, after connecting the device.
Installation of the indoor unit
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation indoors, where to start? First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or radiators - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.
Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for heating, water pipes, and electrical wiring.
Fastening a metal plate from standard components for installing air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is 10 cm, from the corner of the walls at least 5 cm. The two points are connected with a meter and a horizontal line is marked. The indoor unit is installed on a fixed metal plate.
The next stage of installing the air conditioner, or more precisely, its internal unit, is preparing holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for discharging liquid condensate. The internal space should be sufficient to freely place all elements in the wall.
Self-installation of the air conditioner is impossible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this purpose, wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the panel (the indicator can accurately determine the “phase” and “neutral” wire).
The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other by multi-core wiring (it is inserted into a hole prepared in the wall). The installation diagram is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners yourself at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise there is a risk of short circuit.
Pipe laying instructions
The standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender; when used, the metal does not crack and no dents are formed. Proper preparation also includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation.
Special threaded flanges are placed on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the danger of the formation of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit into the rolling process without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because... Copper pipes have different sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, and the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.
At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting the plastic pipe to the reinforced housing. For reliable fastening, use the heat-shrinkable tube included in the delivery set. It is better to install the drainage pipe at the maximum distance from the base of the wall.
Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing the pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater tubes are secured with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them to connect to the outdoor unit.
Indoors, the holes are blown out with polyurethane foam, or, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on the balcony and in the house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. The soap solution is washed off with a sponge or cloth. If defects are detected, the thread is tightened.
Evacuation of the air exchange system
Correct installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should know that to remove moisture, dust and small particles from the climate control device, the system is vacuumed. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the connections, because It is impossible to completely get rid of the air. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, pumping out the air takes about 1 hour.
Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The reservoir on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on automatically, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and effective air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with polyurethane foam followed by decoration.
Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because... These are expensive climate control systems that require specialized equipment to set up. Spare parts are included as standard; you don’t have to buy anything additional.
Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what order to carry out the relevant work.
Installing an air conditioner yourself: secrets of professionals
The installation diagram for window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in winter. You just have to be content with not very comfortable conditions. No water or snow should get into the line. It is better to install and pump in refrigerant at above-zero temperatures outside (at sub-zero temperatures the seal often fails because it is rubber).
To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to vacuum the system. The nut is not screwed to the copper tube completely, then the control valve located at the thick tube is slightly opened. Under pressure, the air will be displaced by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.
This method is incorrect, since it is impossible to check the quality and sealing of the system. Industrial air conditioners are not installed using this technology.
Below is a detailed video instruction that demonstrates the main stages of installing climate control systems with your own hands.
Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines 90% of the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made during installation, it is very difficult to correct them later.
Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, there should be no debris, dust, or boxes left in the room. The word “air conditioning” has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which translated from English means “condition of the air.” The air conditioner serves to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a “regular” air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window” that is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house, if there is one (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and circulates air throughout the house). And it differs from a “regular” air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.
But let’s agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word “air conditioner” that is more familiar to our ears.
First - repair, then - split
So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: internal (evaporator) and external or external (condenser). The blocks are connected to each other by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which refrigerant (freon) flows. A thin plastic tube (drainage) also extends out from the indoor unit to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (see below for information on how to properly make drainage).
The operating principle of a split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, freon flows from the heat exchanger of the outdoor unit through one copper tube to the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. There it is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the external unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.
Split system:
1 – outdoor (external) unit
2 – internal wall block
The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; the same noise level is created by a flying butterfly). But the fan and compressor of the external device can “buzz” and become louder.
Depending on the method of fastening, indoor units can be wall-mounted or floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are so called because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.
In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable blinds on the wall unit, you can change the direction of air flow. But the power of wall-mounted units is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow away” everything in its path. But if a more powerful air conditioner is required in a room (for example, in an office), a floor-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure uniform temperature distribution in the room.
Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more effective to install a floor-ceiling air conditioner!
Split systems vary in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about power, you should definitely consult a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:
1. Area (volume) of your premises.
2. The size of the window, the direction of the world it faces.
3. Presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
4. The amount of constantly working equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
5. Number of heating radiators in the rooms.
6. The number of people constantly present in the room.
7. Is there forced ventilation?
Another piece of advice: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are being offered something that is “not typical.” In reputable companies, before selling an air conditioner, a consultant, as a rule, goes to the site where the device is supposed to be installed, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. For example, they work at the Aeroprof company, which specializes in Carrier air conditioners (USA), at the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and at the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).
This is what the distribution of air flows from a wall-mounted indoor unit looks like
What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIRS, and not after all the repair work has already been carried out. Then you won’t have to hammer and drill freshly painted and leveled walls in order to lay electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fastening the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.
Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after European-quality renovation.
Now about other possible “ambushes”. Very often, mistakes begin when purchasing an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. And what? And that’s it: we’re one on one with him. In the best case, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.
Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or TV: they say, you bring it home, put it in the chosen place, turn it on and - it works! This number will not work with air conditioning. The air conditioner requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when you can’t skimp on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work accounts for 18–30% of the cost of the unit.
I remember how one experienced and reserved-looking installer, answering my quite innocent question: where to start installing an air conditioner, suddenly became agitated and shouted: “People! You are all literate! Each air conditioner comes with instructions in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools,” point by point. Read it, damn it, before you stick your hands in! Better yet, call the specialists.” And, alas, he is right.
Installation: where to start?
Split system installation diagram
1. Communications (in the groove)
2. Drainage (in the groove)
3. Sewerage
4. Siphon
5. Electrical wiring - to the panel (in the groove)
6. A hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°
First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out
Any, even low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner must have separate electrical wiring and a separate circuit breaker installed in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will catch fire. If specialist installers install separate wiring for the air conditioner, the possibility of a fire is reduced to almost zero.
Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember a case when the owner of an apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out the plugs.
Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit
To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, onto which they then install the external unit.
If you place it on an open balcony, then there are no problems: you attach it with bolts, the breeze blows through it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the block to the wall, then you cannot do without durable brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the “outdoor” is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding staircase. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes both equipment in the form of a machine with a fire escape-boom and a climber are required.
External and internal (wall-mounted) units of the Carrier split system
If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3–20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit higher than 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. Or they might steal it. At one of the companies they told us a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. The managers were surprised: “Why don’t you want a complete split system.” “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, hanging under the window.” Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, you need to make a metal canopy over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.
In general, installing an external unit is a responsible undertaking. If it is loosely secured, it might fall... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will answer for yourself.
What cannot be done with the external (outdoor) unit?
There are space restrictions for installing an external unit:
1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.
Third stage: installation of the indoor unit
Air conditioner control panel
Installers fasten special brackets with screws to the wall (if the block is wall-mounted) or the ceiling (if the block is ceiling-mounted) and install the blocks on them. After this, be sure to check the strength of the fastening (is the structure wobbly? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later the entire structure may simply collapse on your head.
But for the floor block, no special fasteners are required. He, as they say, “will stand on foot.” You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, make sure that the unit does not blow on the curtains or the wall and is located away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, after all communications have been laid, it can no longer be moved from place to place.
So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:
1. ...above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling “until it loses its pulse” and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the camera, but the entire room. It will “work” and fail by the end of the day. The same thing will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat emanating from the room battery can cause the plastic housing of the unit to become deformed.
2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations (for example, a drill, a drilling machine) are constantly operating. High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
3. ...directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
4. ...where air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back at the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly got tangled in the curtains and turned off before it could bring the room temperature to the set temperature. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
5. ...with a skew - then water (condensation) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be drained through a drainage tube into a special tank (see our certificate on drainage). Stage four: gating walls or floors
In order to connect electrical wires and freon tubes between air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “drill the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “drill”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.
Don't want to dabble? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are hidden under the baseboard). But before doing this, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for the refrigerant) and the “ends” of the wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this using the connecting fittings. And a “waterproofing cup” with a connecting hose was placed into a pre-punched hole in the outer wall.
Installers arrive on site with all the necessary equipment, communications are laid in the groove, the drainage pipe is placed in the groove at an angle
After this, they must carry out the so-called vacuumization of communications, and always within 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation must be done using special equipment.
Please keep in mind that, as a rule, a separate hidden line is made for the drainage pipe (in the wall or under the floor).
Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program
At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by setting it to the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then everything is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we recommend that you independently conduct such a check of the system’s operation every year (using the same test program).
Stage six: garbage collection
I must warn you: laying the main line and other installation procedures involve dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will arrive with special tools (including a metal detector to examine walls for fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers should have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning equipment. With their help, after finishing the work, they must remove all the garbage themselves. If installers try to dodge “dirty” work, strictly demand that “cleaning up the area” is included in the payment for installing an air conditioner. In addition, you can enter into an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of the split system. Then you won’t have to risk your life, leaning waist-deep out of the window, to clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers at your own expense. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, we hasten to announce a pleasant detail: the Meteomarket company, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year term of the service contract. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted, good operation. By the way, in the well-known building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been installed since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.
The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period for the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned right away) breaks down. Of course, you can clean it with a vacuum cleaner if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.
At temperatures below –15°C, the air conditioner may refuse to work “heat”, and then low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater and even drain tube heater) will be needed. By the way, some models already include these devices (see table).
What did the installers say?
Experienced installers do not recommend buying air conditioners “from anyone,” on the market or second-hand.
“How many times has it happened that some kind of illiterate whiner will carry out the installation, and then people call us and beg us to help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. “It used to be that such would-be installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, but it didn’t have plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for an air conditioner: when it combines with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill after three years.
The installers told me that sometimes they come across particularly stubborn customers, saying, “I’m paying, do as I say!” What should I do? There was a case recently. The client ordered that the outdoor unit be installed not from the street side, but inside the apartment, and in the children's room. He motivated this with a strange statement that his children, they say, would live at the dacha for another two months. He ignored all the persuasions and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit cannot be installed in a closed, and especially in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything.
Or here's a case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, and that a directed flow of cold air could cause a cold. "No! I won't catch a cold! Place it!” There is nothing to do, they set it. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, and they saw that the temperature on yesterday’s split was set to 22°C.
- What's wrong? - they ask.
– It’s true, guys, I froze at night.
In general, when the air conditioner is working properly, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable – that’s all! One day a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.
That's it. Hence the conclusion - it’s not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do this for you.
Split system installation procedure
1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate “automatic circuit breaker” in the distribution panel.
2. Installation of the external (outdoor) unit:
3. Installation of the indoor unit:
4. System wire connection:
5. Test activation of the system:
6. Cleaning the premises (by installers).
How should proper drainage be arranged?
To do this, installers must:
1. Groove the highway.
2. Shut off the water in the apartment.
3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
4. Firmly insert a drainage plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will trap the smell coming from the sewer.
Attention! The drainage tube through which accumulated moisture is removed must be inclined at an angle of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If the tilt cannot be done for some reason, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture.” But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost between 70 and 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.
The main problems that arise when operating an air conditioner
Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly at you, creating a drafty feeling.
Solution: You need to turn on the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal dampers in a more favorable position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.
Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it is constantly running.
Solution: In this case, you should check whether the filters are clogged, whether the windows and doors are closed, and whether additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are operating in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.
Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.
Solution: The drainage line appears to be clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline exposed to the street is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, condensation can turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice jam does occur, then you should wait for a thaw, and until then, do not turn on the system for cooling.
Problem 4: Reduced air flow.
Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate an air conditioner without a filter, since it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.
Problem 5: Icing of the external unit when the air conditioner is operating for heating in conditions of low negative temperatures and high humidity.
Solution: If your air conditioner does not have an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the external unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.
Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.
Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below – 10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens and its wear increases many times over. There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But at the press center of the capital’s SES they told us that there is nothing to be afraid of: if the filters are replaced in a timely manner and if the operating rules are followed, the split system does not pose any harm. At least there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological inspection.
Before considering how to install a split system yourself, you should know how it differs from a conventional air conditioner. The principle of operation of these systems is the operation of two interconnected blocks. One is installed indoors, and the other is installed outdoors. They can both cool and, conversely, heat the room. All systems are small in size and noise-canceling.
Main nuances when installing a split system
The long service life, as well as the efficient operation of the system, directly depend on how correctly the equipment is installed. You can install the system yourself. The most important thing is to take your time and carefully understand the diagrams. When performing installation work, it is important not to damage the copper tubes that connect the blocks to each other and ensure their efficient operation. These elements are designed for refrigerant - freon.
To begin with, it doesn’t hurt to know how the system works. To cool the air, freon will flow from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit, which is located indoors. When the fan is turned on, it provides a strong flow of cooled air, which normalizes the temperature in the room or office.
To remove the condensate that forms, there is a special drainage pipe extending from the unit located indoors. It is quite possible to take her outside.
Before installing equipment, you need to select it correctly. Like air conditioners, split systems differ in power, so when choosing equipment you must take into account the following factors:
- area of the room in which the system will be installed;
- type of indoor unit - floor-ceiling, wall-mounted, cassette or multi-zone.
- absence or presence of forced ventilation in the room.
Necessary tool
To improve the quality of work, it is advisable to prepare the necessary tools in advance so as not to be distracted during the installation process. So, in order to install the outdoor unit, as well as the internal unit of the device, you will need:
- copper tubes having a diameter of 0.25 and 0.5 inches;
- electrical cable, cross section 1.5 mm;
- drainage hose – diameter 16mm;
- insulation for connecting copper pipes;
- dowel nails;
- plugs;
- perforator;
- Vacuum pump;
- drill with a diameter of 55 mm;
- rolling
The first stage of device installation
Before starting installation work, you need to decide where to install the split system. To determine the most optimal location, it is worth considering some factors.
- Under no circumstances should the indoor unit of the system be installed where air circulation is limited. This is possible due to closely spaced cabinets, curtains or partitions.
- The distance between the equipment and the nearest obstacle should not be less than 1 meter, since cold air, reflected from it, will quickly return without changing its temperature. Because of this, the system will quickly turn off, considering that the desired temperature has been reached.
- It is advisable to locate the internal unit of the system away from the place where people spend most of their time.
It is not difficult to install a split system yourself, the main thing is to observe the correct operation during installation. So, when fastening the outdoor unit, you need to carefully ensure that:
- it was located on a flat surface, and there were no sources of heat or steam nearby;
- the block was installed strictly horizontally, so when fastening it to the surface it is advisable to use a building level;
- a unit located outside cannot be mounted close to the wall. The distance between the device and the wall should not be less than 10 cm. Air should circulate freely in the space left.
When installing the indoor unit, the following rules should be followed:
- When installing the unit, be careful. so that it is located strictly horizontally, without slopes;
- try to maintain the distance between the outdoor and indoor units;
- Do not install the equipment close to the ceiling or near sources of steam or heat.
So, when the location has been chosen, you can proceed directly to the installation work. You should start with the electrical wiring. The split system should be connected to the electrical network via a separate line specially designated for this equipment, with the obligatory installation of an additional circuit breaker in the electrical panel.
It should be borne in mind that if a house or apartment was built a long time ago and the wiring has not been changed, it may require a complete replacement, since the split system is powerful equipment, and the old wiring may not withstand the power and this will lead to permanent traffic jams. fly out."
The second stage of installing a split system
It is very important to install the indoor unit correctly, since the quality of operation of the entire system directly depends on it. The best option is to fix the device on the wall with self-tapping screws; if the walls are finished with gypsum board, then you should definitely insert plastic spacers into it, since such material is quite loose and vibration will quickly cause the self-tapping screws to become loose.
If the wall is made of brick, then wooden or plastic “caps” are inserted into the holes drilled for self-tapping screws, and then the plate for the block is attached with self-tapping screws. Be sure to check the evenness of the plate fastening using a building level.
The next step is to use a hammer drill to drill a through hole in the wall for the cold pipe. Be sure to provide a slope of at least 15 degrees. It should be outward, not inward.
Next, you need to connect the copper tubes to the internal structure of the air conditioner, as well as the drainage tube to a special hose on the device. Now you can connect the electrical cable to the equipment located indoors. For split systems with a cooling capacity of no more than 4 kW, you should use a cable with a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm (5-core).
The third stage of system installation
At the last, final stage, it is necessary to connect the internal and external units of the system. To do this, do the following.
- First you need to measure the distance between the block taps.
- Place special thermal insulation on the copper connecting tubes. Trim to required length. It is equal to the measurements taken earlier.
- Be sure to secure plugs at the ends of the connecting tubes to prevent dust from getting inside.
- And the last step is to wrap the electrical cable and drainage system with protective sheaths.
How to avoid installation mistakes?
It is not enough to know how to install a split system; you should avoid mistakes that can lead to failure of the device. That is why it is not necessary to allow frequent kinks of freon tubes at a short distance, and it is also unacceptable to loosen the connections between them. Subsequently, all this will lead to a freon leak.
It is important to ensure that the connecting tubes are not twisted into a ring whose radius is less than 100 mm. This will make it difficult for the device to pump refrigerant.
Conclusion
Now you know how to install a split system yourself. Never forget that there are no insignificant factors when installing it. And everything that is done poorly or not completed to the end, for example, poor-quality rolling, loose nuts, bent tubes, dirt in them or moisture - all this will ultimately lead to system failure.
A split system is a complex electrical device. If it is connected incorrectly, the board in it may burn out due to a failure in the electrical network. Therefore, make sure that a voltage relay is installed.
For preventative purposes, for high-quality and long-term operation of the device, clean the filters in the system monthly. Do not run the device in winter unless it is equipped with a winter kit for operation at sub-zero temperatures.
Before starting the device, check the drainage system. Usually they pour water into the air conditioner; if there are no leaks under the block, then everything is in order.
With proper use and timely maintenance, the split system can easily last for more than one year. Therefore, if your neighbors claim that all air conditioning systems are designed for a short period of time, then perhaps they simply do not know how to use them correctly.
The question of whether it is possible to install an air conditioner with your own hands worries the minds, first of all, of owners of brand new split systems who have already managed to get acquainted with the prices for installing climate control equipment. Indeed, numerous air conditioning installation companies rate their services quite highly, citing the complexity of installation, the need to use expensive highly specialized equipment and the mandatory high qualifications of specialists. You can't argue with the last statement. Only new owners of air conditioners are still interested in the possibility of self-installation, firstly as the prospect of real savings on installation services (we are talking about a considerable amount), and secondly, as an opportunity to consolidate their own skills and learn something new. Is it possible to blame our man’s desire to get to the bottom of the issue in order to understand how to install an air conditioner on his own and do the installation himself, no worse than a real master? If aspiration is accompanied by the ability to realistically assess the level of one’s skills and capabilities, then it has no price! The information we have presented on how to properly install an air conditioner will help you realistically assess the amount of installation work and balance your skill level with the required one.
Before you begin to study the detailed installation instructions, please review the list of required equipment.
Required tools and equipment
- Hammer with drills.
- Electric drill.
- Vacuum pump.
- Pipe cutter
- Rolling.
- Reamer (beveler).
- Level.
- Torque wrench.
- Gauge manifold.
Using a vacuum pump, remove moisture and air from the system
Plumbing tools for installing air conditioners will also be useful (pliers, screwdrivers, hammer, etc.)
Choosing a place for installation
When choosing an installation location for both indoor and outdoor units, consider the following points: it is important to consider the possibility of free access to the device (for ongoing work on cleaning and replacing filters).
Also take into account the feasibility of the shortest communication between the indoor and outdoor units (the point is not so much the economic benefit from using fewer consumables, but rather the reduction in the efficiency of the entire system as the length of inter-unit communications increases). Do not place the indoor unit above a cabinet or tall furniture (obstructing the flow of cooled air will cause the unit to operate less efficiently). For the same reason, maintain a minimum distance from the ceiling and walls (15 cm). Coordinating the installation of the air conditioner with your neighbors is also very desirable, in order to avoid misunderstandings in the future. The installation of an external unit does not create any particular problems for residents of neighboring apartments, but it is very likely that someone may not like the noise of a running fan or dripping condensation. And the last point, the most obvious, is that the flow of cold air should not create discomfort for people in the room, so take into account the direction of the air flow during installation. Once the locations of the blocks have been determined, we begin installation work.
- installation of the indoor unit;
- mounting the outdoor unit;
- drilling a channel in the wall;
- laying and connecting connecting communications;
- vacuumization of the circuit;
- connecting the air conditioner to the electrical network;
- system startup.
Correctly installing the indoor unit
The internal unit of the split system is mounted on a special plate supplied with the device. To ensure reliable operation of the unit and prevent condensation from leaking out of it later, it is very important to secure the plate level. Therefore, to determine a strict horizontal line when marking, you must use a level. In the marked places, dowels are driven into holes pre-drilled with a hammer drill. Then, using self-tapping screws screwed into dowels, we attach the mounting plate and install the indoor unit on it.
A mounting plate is attached to the installation location of the indoor unit
Installing the outdoor unit
The outdoor unit is placed on pre-installed brackets on the outside of the building, usually under or to the side of a window for ease of maintenance. For effective airflow, the distance from the block to the wall must be at least 10cm. If it is not possible to secure the brackets from the window, then to carry out the work you will need to rent an aerial platform or use the services of climbers.
Interblock communications - how to do it?
A hole in the wall for the passage of communications is drilled using a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 4-5 cm. If the interblock route includes a drainage pipe for condensate removal, then the channel must be made with a slope (5-10 degrees towards the street). It is advisable to hide the section of the route from the indoor unit to the point where it enters the wall in the wall. When gating, a lot of dust is generated, so if renovations have already been made in the room, then it is better to lay the route outside, subsequently covering it with a decorative box.
Interblock communications can be hidden in a decorative plastic casing
The inter-unit communication route includes copper freon pipes, power supply and equipment control wires, as well as a drainage pipeline (according to the rules, condensate from the indoor unit must be drained into the sewer system, but many simply drain it outside). The required length of wiring and pipelines is determined by measuring the total length of the route (plus a small margin of 30-50 cm).
To cut copper pipes, you must use a pipe cutter, not a grinder or a hacksaw, to avoid the formation of sawdust, which can subsequently lead to breakdown of the air conditioner. Before installation, the pipelines are placed in a heat-insulating shell; to prevent debris from entering, the pipeline openings are closed with plastic plugs. All components of the route are laid together, rewound with vinyl tape, after which the route is installed in place.
After laying the interblock communications, they begin to connect the wires and the freon line. The installation instructions for the air conditioner must contain a wiring diagram that must be followed during operation.
The length of the tubes is adjusted (we cut off the required size), then it is necessary to remove the burrs (we remove the chamfer using a reamer). After threading the nut, each edge of the tubes is flared by rolling. Then the edges are connected to the fittings of the indoor and outdoor units, tightening the nuts with a torque wrench (the connections must be absolutely tight).
After checking the tightness, air is removed from the line using a vacuum pump; a manometric manifold makes it possible to control the pressure
Having finished connecting the route, check the tightness of the line and “vacuum” it (remove moisture and air) using a vacuum pump. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the service port of the outdoor unit through a manometric manifold, which, by pumping air out of the system, creates a vacuum in it. This process lasts about 20 minutes (depending on the volume of the circuit). After turning off the pump, observe the change in pressure for half an hour; if the pressure gauge needle does not deviate, then the system is sealed. Only after a thorough check of the tightness is it possible to open the taps of the outdoor unit and fill the circuit with freon. Attention, a freon leak can cause a compressor breakdown, but more important is the extremely harmful effect of freon on the human body.
So, the system is assembled and filled with refrigerant, all that remains is to connect the air conditioner to the electrical network and check its operation. The connection diagram for the air conditioner is simple; in most household split systems, the power supply is connected to the indoor unit; to do this, you just need to connect an outlet to it.
Now you have a general idea of how to install an air conditioner yourself. We were talking about installing a split system as the most efficient type of household air conditioners. The video instructions below will help you figure out how to install an air conditioner.
Installation of a mobile air conditioner does not require the intervention of highly qualified specialists: you just need to place the device within 2 m from the window (to remove hot air), and then connect it to the network.
Installing an air conditioner is a very complex task that requires certain knowledge and sometimes special tools. In our article today we will talk about how to install an air conditioner at home yourself. There are different types of air conditioning systems, which include mobile and window models, as well as so-called split systems. In our article, we will take a closer look at the sequence of actions when installing the latest version.
The installation process of a split system is quite complicated and is carried out in several steps. In this regard, all actions can be divided into three main stages, which include the following:
- Installation work on the indoor unit;
- Actions related to installing an external unit;
- Vacuuming.
We will consider each of the stages in detail.
Stage one: installing the indoor unit
If you decide to install a mobile air conditioner at home, then you don’t have to worry about the installation process, you just need to put it in the right place. But with a split system you will have to work hard, since it consists of two blocks, each of which needs a separate installation. If we talk about the indoor unit, then there are a number of requirements for its installation. So, for example, it should be at a certain distance from the ceiling, which should not be less than ten centimeters.
You should understand the importance of the above requirement, since if it is ignored, the following consequences may occur:
- its body will quickly become clogged with dust, and it will have to be removed almost every day;
- Dust will also settle on the surface of the ceiling. The result will be a not-so-pretty dust stain;
- the system will not have enough air, and this will subsequently affect its efficiency.
Such a distance from the wall is required so that it becomes possible to ensure a distance between the curtains and the device of at least ten centimeters. At a shorter distance, curtains or drapes will constantly flutter, which is also undesirable. Next, we install the mounting plate, while keeping it level. You should also first arrange the markings, which are done using dowels and a hammer drill.
Further independent installation of the air conditioner involves making a through hole in the wall, which is required in order to lay the main line and drainage system there. For this purpose, you need to take a drill, the diameter of which is forty-five millimeters, after which you can start making a hole. This tunnel should be constructed in such a way that the slight slope required for condensate to flow through it is ensured. Further actions will be related to the collection and connection of the route. First you need to measure the required length of the pipe and cut them. This will require the use of a pipe cutter. But it is better not to use a hacksaw for metal, since chips that get inside will lead to damage to the compressor.
Next comes the connection of pipes - rolling is used. The quality of the connection holding the refrigerant also depends on how well this operation is performed. Even before rolling, you need to put the nut on the tube. This requirement is explained by the impossibility of such action in the future. It is also important to screw the nuts to the indoor unit as tightly as possible, this only improves the quality of the connection.
The connected pipes, electrical wiring, and drainage system must be insulated and wrapped with tape. Next, the free main ends need to be inserted into a previously made hole in the wall. As for the internal block itself, it is installed on a bar. At this point, the installation stages of the air conditioner associated with its indoor unit can be considered complete. Now we move on to the next steps to install the external unit.
Stage two: install the external unit
Solving the issue related to the proper installation of the air conditioning system, or rather its external unit, is associated with some risk. This is relevant when performing high-altitude work. In such cases, insurance is mandatory.
As part of this stage, the first step is to install the brackets. In most cases, the external unit is mounted under the window. This decision on its location is explained by the fact that in this way it becomes possible to ensure convenient maintenance and repair.
As for the location of the brackets, it is calculated in such a way that the external unit of the air conditioning system would be located below the level of the window sill.
After completing the marking work, you can proceed to the stage of attaching the brackets to the wall. Due to the fact that the external unit is characterized by quite significant weight, the brackets must be secured with maximum reliability. For this, long self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which should not be less than twelve millimeters. After installing the brackets, the block itself should be lowered onto them. It is advisable to mount the block together with an assistant, since due to its considerable mass there is a danger of dropping the block.
Next, after installing the block on the brackets, it will need to be securely fastened. But this must be done by securing all four screws. When these steps are completed, it will be possible to connect backbone elements to it. In this case, all actions must be carried out extremely carefully, since it is important not to confuse which of the tubes should be connected where. In addition, even during the process of connecting them to the indoor unit, it is recommended to make the appropriate marks. In all other respects, other actions are carried out similarly to the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.
Stage three: vacuuming
When deciding to install an air conditioner at home with your own hands, remember that vacuuming must be carried out. This process is a set of actions aimed at creating a vacuum in the main line pipes. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the operation of the air conditioner. Vacuuming is performed to remove residual dust and moisture from the pipes. This is done with a special pump connected to the system using a pressure manifold and flexible hoses.
Next, the pump is turned on and the port on the external unit is opened. After the pressure gauge goes into vacuum, close the port and turn off the pump. Completing these steps will take no more than fifteen minutes. This operation can also take a longer time, but this is no longer necessary. Do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, since the arrow may change its position. So, for example, when it rises, we can talk about the lack of tightness of the system. Therefore, all connections in general and rolling in particular should be checked.
You can start the refrigerant only after making sure that everything is sealed, and it doesn’t matter where you decide to install the air conditioner. At the same time, it is better to leave the pressure gauges in their places. The first step is to open the tube responsible for the supply, then the suction tube, after which you can start fixing the freon pressure. It is also important not to confuse the above sequence of actions.
Next, the system starts for the first time, which will not happen immediately; you will have to wait for some time. Then you need to let it run for about fifteen minutes. This time is allotted for the complete distribution of freon through the tubes. Then control pressure measurements are carried out, and the pump equipped with a pressure gauge device is turned off. At this point, the work on installing the split system can be considered complete.
Window air conditioner installation
In cases where you want to install a window air conditioner at home, the steps are slightly different, since its design is significantly different from a split system. To do this, you will need to remove its front panel and remove the block located on the slide. After this, the housing should be installed with a slight slope towards the street. Next, it is assembled in the reverse order and connected to the outlet, adjusting the required power.