It is not for nothing that the built-in wardrobe is widely popular. A sliding wardrobe not only has a large capacity, taking up a minimum of usable living space. It is capable of performing other useful functions in the interior, and making it with your own hands is not so difficult.

What does coupe mean?

In the common parts of ancient European cities, the streets were very cramped, and the sidewalks were so narrow that it was sometimes impossible to open the carriage door. Because of this, somewhere in the 17th century. coupe carriages with sliding doors appeared. Legend attributes the invention of the coupe to the French court carriage maker Jeantot. But, most likely, this is only a legend - Jeantot is famous for having invented a steering linkage, which made it possible to make sharp turns without the risk of capsizing.

The coupe carriage is a rather playful concept: parts of the city remote from comfortable neighborhoods were visited mainly for secret dates. Some linguists derive the word “coupe” from “couple” - couple, extramarital affair; marriage – “marriage”, hence the mariage known to gamblers, a queen and a king of the same suit.

Then sliding doors were suitable for railway workers for 1st class and sleeping cars. And in the furniture business, any wardrobe with sliding doors is considered a wardrobe. So the wardrobe is not necessarily built-in. And the built-in wardrobe may not be a compartment.

How is a wardrobe useful?

The main types of direct sliding wardrobes are shown in the figure. It should be immediately noted that radius sliding wardrobes, in which the front surface is curved, require high furniture professionalism, and it is better not to take on such a project yourself. Therefore, we will leave radius cabinets aside for now.

First of all, the wardrobe can be arranged in a niche, first pos. left. Making a cabinet of this type yourself is not much more difficult than making a stool. Expenses are minimal; after all, three walls, a bottom and a tire are already there. An inconvenient place turns into a useful one.

Second from left- actually the same cabinet in a niche, but the niche is the entire width of a blank wall. In this way, it is possible in a small apartment, practically without reducing the living space. The visible volume of the room can even be expanded by finishing or decorating the doors accordingly.

Next in order– in the opening of the interior partition. A common technique when arranging open-plan apartments in modern monolithic houses. It gives convenience and allows you to save a lot on expensive construction, plastering and finishing work. By the way, those described above are also economical - the inside of the cabinet can be made of chipboard, and the doors too; After all, they most often go under decor and finishing.

Closet on the far right– it’s already framed, so the material needed for it is more expensive. These are mainly used for zoning budget one-room apartments or, conversely, expensive penthouses without interior doors.

And finally, a wardrobe, like a regular one, can be straight or angular, leaning against the wall or placed across it. The latter, as stated, are used for zoning. They have two faces, but no rear at all. They are often made double-sided, with doors both here and there, for easy access to the contents. The closet can also be turned into a wardrobe by replacing the hinged door with a sliding one.

We will take a closer look at the cabinet built into the niche; We'll touch on the rest in passing. It’s the easiest way to do it yourself, and it saves the most money. In addition, you most likely will not need special tools and sawing work that requires solid skills. Why? Let's get to that.

In general, the procedure for making a wardrobe is as follows:

1. Material selection;
2. Determining the extent, nature and method of placement of filling;
3. Door design, with the choice of hanging method;
4. Choosing a method for hanging shelves;
5. Niche preparation;
6. Measurements and drawing;
7. Purchase of accessories, materials and cutting of blanks;
8. Cabinet assembly and interior lighting installation;
9. Exterior finishing.

Materials

When designing a cabinet, you need to start with choosing the material. The entire manufacturing process depends on it, and depending on the choice, it can fundamentally change.

Wood and lining

Wood is a traditional and, nowadays, prestigious furniture material. But for a built-in wardrobe, wood is far from the most suitable. The humidity in the niche will certainly be higher than in the room, and the wood will warp; its decorative role in this case is minimal. If you still need a wooden cabinet, the wood for it should be straight-grained, without strands, knots, cracks, seasoned and thoroughly impregnated with hot drying oil or water-polymer emulsion.

Note: It is not at all necessary that the niche be damp. For warping of wood, the difference in humidity from the blank wall to the doors and its sharp jumps when opening are important. Because of this, it is not recommended to place wooden cabinets in niches.

Lining for a cabinet in a niche, plastic or MDF, can be used without preliminary preparation, but another limitation appears - the frames of the door leaves. They have to be made of wood, with the same conditions and requirements as indicated above, plus the care of manufacturing. You also need to glue the lining boards together, but this is not a problem: there is a tongue and groove for it, and it holds up perfectly on the PVA. In general, a lining cabinet can be recommended only for those cases when a sliding wardrobe in a niche should fit organically into the interior, as in Fig.

Drywall

Drywall is an excellent, easy-to-use finishing material with a wide range of possibilities. Designers and amateur DIYers create real masterpieces from it. But As a basis for a cabinet of any design, gypsum board is completely unsuitable. It is possible to make a cabinet from plasterboard, see figure, but it is difficult. Let's figure out why.

Drywall is a rather heavy, fragile and at the same time not very durable material. It is intended exclusively for decoration and cannot be part of a supporting structure, even lightly loaded. Simply put, drywall cannot hold anything on itself; on the contrary, it must be attached to something and something must hold it. A piece of plasterboard 400x400 mm, laid flat on a frame, sags noticeably by itself within six months. According to the technical specifications, gypsum board sheets must not be stored vertically or leaned against the wall.

That is, you cannot simply cut gypsum boards and fasten them together, like, say, laminate (see next). Each shelf must be a box-shaped spatial structure, which requires a complex frame (see figure on the right). But the resulting structure (see next figure on the left), with the correct geometry and proper strength, will be far from aesthetic; You also need putty and decorative finishing.

Note: For the frame of a cabinet made of gypsum plasterboard, wood is doubly unsuitable - the cavities of the finished structure will attract moisture. Only standard C- and U profiles with standard fasteners are suitable for the frame.

Then - the doors. There is no way to make them from gypsum plasterboard - the fastenings will break simply under the weight of the sash. And the doors are exactly the essence of the wardrobe. Making cabinet shelves with doors from plasterboard is monkey work and reduces the usable volume. There are no wardrobes made of gypsum plasterboard, and a wardrobe with shelves made of gypsum plasterboard makes no sense.

In fact, a plasterboard cabinet is not furniture, but a building structure, and is made using construction technology, not furniture technology. But at the same time, it can have outstanding aesthetic merits and be the most significant object of interior design.

Laminate, MDF, fiberboard

These are the most suitable materials. Making a cabinet from them can be quite simple at minimal cost, see about sawing. These materials have all the beneficial properties of wood and at the same time are insensitive to gradients and humidity fluctuations because during their manufacturing process, the microstructure of the tree is transformed into another. Just one note: fiberboard should be of medium or high density. The back wall of inexpensive cabinet cabinets is often made of low-density fiberboard, similar to thick cardboard corrugated on one side, but it will soon fail in a niche.

Filling

The internal content of the cabinet determines its internal layout. There are four rules here:

• Raw - set aside separately.
• The necessary and small things are before your eyes.
• Dry - higher.
• Valuables - in boxes.

For example, it is wrong to place the section for outerwear in the middle - dampness will flow from it to the sides. If you place it on the side, the moisture from the clothes will go where it’s easier – out. In the bedroom, there is no need to place drawers or shelves for bed linen directly above the floor - dust and moisture are concentrated approximately 40 cm above the flooring. Well, it’s clear that a wallet or smartphone shouldn’t be lying around in plain sight near the entrance.

The ultimate goal of content placement is to achieve a minimum shelf width; this will be needed to calculate the doors. The placement procedure is quite responsible; the convenience and durability of the cabinet largely depends on the successful layout.

Video: internal layout of a sliding wardrobe

Doors

Doors are the salt of a wardrobe, its most complex and important element. There are three significant points:

1. Number and width of sashes.
2. Suspension design.
3. Sash stoppers.

Doors

At this stage, the task is to find the number of sashes for a given width of the opening for the cabinet. The fewer the doors, the more convenient the cabinet, but the likelihood of warping and jamming is higher. The maximum permissible width is 600-700 mm; with larger doors they can be difficult to move simply because they turn out to be very heavy.

The overlap of the wardrobe doors should be within 50-70 mm. If the overlap is too small, you will either have to open and close the doors carefully, or put up with the gaps. If there is too much overlap, the internal layout of the cabinet becomes difficult, especially if it is intended for a hallway or other cramped room.

At the same time, the width of the door should not exceed the width of the narrowest shelf, otherwise it may become inaccessible. We also take into account the permissible overlap and subtract 40-50 mm for the side profiles; without them, the doors will hit the wall. In general, the procedure is as follows: based on the maximum door width, we first determine the number of overlaps (one less than the doors) and check the resulting door width. It doesn’t fit into the maximum - you need to make one more door, and so on until everything fits together.

Calculation example:

Opening width – 1.75 m; the narrowest shelf is 0.45 m. A double-leaf cabinet will no longer work, it does not work both for convenience and for the maximum allowable width of the door. Then we’ll put two overlaps, this will give 100-140 mm minus to the opening, and we’ll also put 50 mm on the sidewalls. Total - 150-190 mm, 0.15-0.19 m. 1.75 remains for the doors - (0.15-0.19) = 1.6-1.56 m. Divide by 3, door width comes out to 0 .53-0.52 m. A lot, what to do? Let's estimate with 3 overlaps (4 doors). It comes out to 37-39 cm per door. But making 4 doors is more difficult and expensive (an extra set of fittings), so it makes sense to go back to the layout sketch and rearrange the inside so that the narrowest shelf is 55 cm.

Suspension

Three systems for hanging wardrobe doors are widely known: double-rail with a lower support, double-rail with a top support and monorail. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The choice is ultimately determined by the size, purpose of the cabinet and the financial capabilities of the customer/craftsman.

Bottom rail

The most common system; Its structure is shown schematically in Fig. on the right, and the design of the upper and lower rails is in Fig. left. The support rollers are the lower rollers, the upper rollers prevent the sash from falling out. This system is also the most reliable: the sashes almost never jam or touch each other.

The lower rollers are heavily loaded, so when assembling yourself, you need to follow certain rules, as illustrated in Fig. below. The rollers are made of plastic, and when purchasing you need to look to see if you can get polypropylene ones; There are a lot of cheap polyethylene ones on sale in a low-quality metal carriage. If the rollers are propylene, then you don’t have to look too closely at the metal; Both steel and aluminum are equally reliable.

Installation of the sashes is simple: insert the top into the groove of the rail, lift it all the way, insert the bottom into the groove - ready. However, the bottom support system has disadvantages:

• Sensitivity to floor subsidence, and the very weight of the cabinet increases it. On an old wooden floor on joists, after a while the doors may begin to move on their own, or even fall out.
• Sensitivity to dust and dirt. The loaded surface of the rail is in the dustiest layer of air, the rollers roll and compact the dust, tubercles form in the groove of the lower rail, after a while the doors begin to rumble unpleasantly, and the rail with the rollers needs to be cleaned.

Top rail

Here the support is moved to the upper rail, see fig. on right. The concrete ceiling does not sag, and is properly finished and does not generate dust, so the doors move quietly and smoothly. Fittings of this type are not complicated or expensive, and installation differs from the previous one only in that the sash must be tilted during installation. There are three disadvantages, but two of them are significant, so suspension with a top rail is not widely used:

1. A lower guide is definitely needed; without it, the doors will inevitably hit and rub each other.
2. If there is an accidental push or pressure on the sash, its rollers come out of the groove and the sash falls inside the cabinet.
3. The top rail is not very rigid, so in some cases it is necessary to level the ceiling where the suspension is installed.

Monorail

The peculiarity of the system is that each carriage has 2 pairs of rollers (see next figure), and the suspension of each sash runs in a separate guide. Paired rollers, together with the guide profile, counteract door wobble to some extent. Thanks to this, with careful handling, you can do without the bottom rail and not touch the floor. But you still can’t push the doors inward, otherwise they will touch each other. Therefore, lower guide rollers with a rail for them are also sold for the monorail.

A cabinet with such a hanging is suitable primarily for the bedroom, where adults use it, and neatly. A durable and precisely adjustable suspension allows you to make wide doors, and this, in turn, allows you to place both a wardrobe and a dressing room against a blank wall. Rigid box rails make it possible in most cases to avoid leveling the ceiling. There are four main disadvantages of the monorail:

• Complex and expensive fittings.
• The need for a decorative overlay at the top, because There is a wide gap between the sash and the rail.
• Complex installation: you must first insert carriages with rollers into the rail, then attach the rail to the ceiling, and only then hang the door. An assistant is needed to hang the leaves on the monorail.
• After hanging the sashes, adjustment is required.

Stoppers

It is advisable that the cabinet doors do not roll back and forth on their own, and that they do not need to be carefully pushed into place. In a double-leaf cabinet, the problem is solved by magnetic latches on the sides. But there is nowhere to put the latches on the middle doors: the magnet doesn’t hold it casually. Therefore, the main type of wardrobe latches is mechanical.

There are mainly two types used: a recess in the support rail and a flat figured spring. If you make the cabinet yourself, then the recess is not suitable: such rails are made in the factory of a standard size for standard cabinets.

The spring clamp shown in the figure is easy to make yourself and install in place in a guide cut to size. The principle of its operation is simple: the antennae protrude slightly and the roller falls between them. And when the roller rolls onto the edge of the spring, the edges of the antenna rest against the sides of the groove, which prevents the latch from moving. To move the latch into place, you need to press both antennae at once.

But all latches for sliding wardrobes have a common drawback. When opening/closing the door, the force is already acting at odds, and the resistance of the latch increases it even more. Most breakdowns of sliding wardrobes occur precisely because of the latches.

Therefore, the best stopper for sliding wardrobe doors is a carefully aligned support rail, high-quality fittings and careful use.

Fastening the shelves

For a cabinet built into a niche, the methods for hanging shelves in cabinet furniture are poorly suited or not at all suitable - you cannot reach the sides from the outside. In a niche, they either build a rigid frame, which is difficult and expensive, or use special adjustable suspension systems like the one shown in the figure. It's easier, but also not cheap.

Meanwhile, the simplest and cheapest way to attach shelves is to pieces of regular plinth, floor or ceiling, see fig. on right. MDF skirting boards, as you know, are available in a huge range of sizes, textures and profiles. So that the shelf fasteners are not noticeable, a piece of plinth can be taken shorter than the depth of the shelf by a third, and its end can also be cut off at an angle. In this case, the self-tapping screw farthest from the edge of the shelf must be screwed in from above through the shelf board.

Note: the upper and lower partitions in the closet can be attached to the floor and ceiling in the same way, without shortening the plinth sections for reliability. Their ends, if you take a small ceiling plinth, will be completely covered by the upper and lower guides, and together with the shelves fixed in a similar way, a very strong and rigid structure is formed. Which, in addition, will support the plank floor from sagging under the weight of the doors.

Niche

Professional furniture makers rarely and reluctantly undertake to manufacture built-in furniture on site - the work is tedious and unprofitable. Custom built-in furniture is most often the same cabinet furniture that is delivered and assembled in a niche. And here the home-made man has a great opportunity to simplify and reduce the cost of his closet, making it at the same time stronger and more spacious.

Diagonals

A necessary condition for the success of such an undertaking is that the niche opening must be rectangular, and the floor and ceiling where the doors are installed must be horizontal. Here you may have to devote a little time to construction work, but the volume is small and the complexity is low.

Note: for a monorail suspension, the usual horizontal level of the ceiling is sufficient. The rail is leveled with spacers. But not by adjusting the sashes after! In an inclined guide, vertically hanging sashes will slide to the side.

The floor and ceiling are checked by level, but what about rectangularity? The usual method in construction - using cords along diagonals - does not work well. The fact is that furniture precision is higher than construction precision. In finishing work, 3 mm/1 m is permissible. In furniture, if a seam 2 m long diverges in length by two millimeters, this is already noticeable to the eye. But any cord is stretchable, and it is inconvenient to wield it in a vertical opening; It won’t work without a lot of experience and construction precision.

There is a way to measure the diagonals of the opening, not just with furniture precision, but with machine-building precision, see fig. It's very simple: two slats with pointed ends. The angle at the apex is less than 45 degrees, and preferably 20-30, as long as the material of the slats is strong enough. The slats are fastened with rings made of “money” rubber bands, which are sold in any office supply store.

The measurement procedure is elementary simple:

1. We insert the device diagonally until the ends of the slats stop in the corners.
2. We make a mark with a pencil or a nail, as in pos. 1.
3. Insert it into another diagonal, push it apart/move until it stops.

By the divergence of the halves of the line, the magnitude of the inequality of the diagonals is immediately visible. Maximum accuracy - half the thickness of the mark, i.e. you can achieve 0.15-0.2 mm. And to assemble the cabinet without problems, you need up to 3 mm in an opening of 2x2.5 m.

Note: if you are preparing a place for a cabinet - a zoning partition, standing perpendicular to the wall, you will have to measure and adjust 8 diagonals - one pair at a time on the face and back, and two pairs inside between the upper and lower opposite corners. Along the width of the cabinet, two perpendiculars are cut from the wall, and instead of the currently missing sidewall, two slats or a piece of plywood are installed.

And now, what prevents you from using the walls of a niche, its floor and ceiling as the same for a closet? You just need to keep it dust-free. And achieving this is not at all difficult or expensive:

• We remove old wallpaper or paint with a gel surface-active (surfactant) remover. It is non-toxic, odorless, and the old coating can be removed with a spatula after 10-40 minutes.
• Using a foam roller, we impregnate the walls 2-3 times, at intervals of 24 hours, with PVA water-polymer emulsion.
• We paint with acrylic enamel.

A niche prepared in this way does not accumulate dust for exactly 10 years, and there is no need to remove the old baseboard from the floor. Durable acrylic enamel is not easy to damage. And the costs are less than for a sheet of simple, non-laminated fiberboard for the back wall.

Note: Small irregularities in the walls visible to the eye can be removed with an abrasive mesh on a wooden block. It is better to do this after the first impregnation with PVA - there will be less dust.

Dimensions and drawing

With this manufacturing method, shelves and partitions, of course, will have to be cut to fit. To do this, you will have to draw a view of the cabinet from the facade, approximately as shown in the figure. Then, on the ceiling, for any type of suspension, mark a line at the location where the guide is installed. Then, from its ends, make vertical lines on the walls along plumb lines, and from this imaginary plane, measure the configuration of each shelf and partition in place. From the resulting depth of the shelves/partitions, you need to subtract the width of the support profile + 20 mm from the FRONT.

What's the point? The peculiarity of the finishing work is that the layer of plaster/primer towards the inner corners is thicker. This happens because in the middle of the wall or at the outer corner there is greater freedom of movement with the tool. The difference in the width of the room in the middle and between the corners rarely exceeds 10 mm and is not noticeable to the eye, but for furniture even 2 mm is too much.

The configuration of the niche is, in general, a low truncated rectangular pyramid, overturned on its side. Accordingly, the shape of the shelves with partitions in plan will be close to a trapezoid. But is it possible to cut them with the required precision? Nowadays, it is quite possible and you won’t even have to install carpentry at home. And you don't need a jigsaw or circular saw. Templates and patterns - too.

Sawing and fittings

The fact is that now it is easier and cheaper to simply order sawing of blanks. In almost every town there is a furniture workshop with a computer and a specialist who knows ACAD, if only the drawings were accurate. Many furniture makers also acquire computer-controlled sawing robots - the cost of sawing by such a hard worker almost does not depend on the size and complexity of the part, and it pays off well on non-standard small items that are always in demand.

Furniture makers buy material at wholesale prices, therefore, based on the total area, the cost of blanks is 20% or more less than when purchasing material independently at retail. Many also give a discount on trimmings (robotic - almost all); After all, they won’t lie around in the trash, but will go to work.

Note: The thickness of the laminate or MDF for the cabinet is at least 16 mm. For doors on a monorail - at least 25 mm.

Also a standard service when sawing is edge cutting, i.e. sealing the ends of PVC boards to match. For a built-in wardrobe, of course, you only need to edge the front ends - it will be cheaper. The thickness of the PVC edge can be from 0.2 to 2 mm. If you want a thick edge, in the drawing its thickness must be subtracted from the width of the board.

Assembly, light, finishing

The methods for assembling the cabinet, in fact, have already been described. It is only necessary to add about the door hanging. The suspension systems described are not the only ones on the market. Technology develops, existing ones are improved, new ones appear. But for each one of more or less decent quality, a specification must be given indicating installation dimensions and tolerances, specifications for rails, etc.

Therefore, before ordering cutting of doors, take a closer look at what is sold around you and what will suit you best. The final size of the sashes depends on the method of suspension, and the necessary clearances are specified in the specification for the suspension.

About interior lighting. Cabinets are made of flammable materials, so it is better to use low-power 12 V halogen lights for interior lighting. The cabinet lights are powered from an AC/DC adapter plugged into an outlet using double-insulated wires. Running 220 V wiring into the closet, and even permanent wiring, is completely unacceptable!

As for the decoration - mirrors, decorations, paintings and drawings - this is a matter of taste. One note: it is not advisable to hang glass mirrors on doors made of wood materials; they are too fragile and heavy. An acrylic mirror is better. Or solid mirror doors, but that’s a separate conversation, and very expensive.

How much can you win?

Now let’s figure out whether a homemade cabinet in a niche is really inexpensive. And will the savings be worth the time and effort?

If you make a cabinet in a hallway niche as described above, the materials will cost 5-8 thousand rubles, including cutting costs. Well, 10,000, if, as they say, from the belly. Time – 2-3 couples of weekends for an average home handyman. And ordering a wardrobe for the same niche is hardly possible for less than 12,000. Most likely, from 20,000. Completion time – 2 weeks.

The savings on a wardrobe covering the entire wall of the bedroom are even greater. Here, the typical regional ratio of homemade/custom cost is 13,000/32,000. But making something like this requires more serious skills.

But making a wardrobe partition yourself is no longer so profitable: the advantages of well-established technology are also felt by the pros. And the work is difficult - a skilled craftsman will have to tinker with it for a month, if he doesn’t have to redo it yet. You will be able to profit no more than 2000 on a closet in a one-room apartment of average size.

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In this article I want to tell you how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. The procedure is quite labor-intensive, so read everything carefully and strictly follow the instructions.

If all the available cabinets and chests of drawers in your apartment are already occupied, but there are things that need to be placed somewhere, the best option for solving this problem would be to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. Moreover, making furniture yourself will cost much less than purchasing it in a store or making it to order.

Determining the location of the cabinet

Initially, you should decide on the place where the built-in wardrobe will be located. In modern interiors, a plasterboard niche is often provided for a built-in wardrobe. You can also make a closet that spans the entire wall; it will also be built-in.

If you are not making a built-in wardrobe, then you do not need to cut anything into the walls.

Drawings and diagrams

Then, based on the size of the niche, its length, width and depth, draw a sketch (drawing) of the future wardrobe. This document should take into account such points as the number of sections, number of shelves, distances between shelves, width and height of sections, and also provide for the presence of additional options, such as, say, a mini-bar or a niche for a TV. See some drawings of do-it-yourself wardrobes.

Photo 4. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe Photo 5. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe Photo 6. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe

Necessary materials

After the cabinet drawing is ready, you need to calculate the amount of necessary material and furniture fittings and purchase everything you need in specialized stores. By the way, many points selling chipboard (material for making doors and walls) can cut a whole sheet of chipboard according to the dimensions specified by the customer. Thus, you will receive blanks for the doors, walls and shelves of the future built-in wardrobe.

If you want mirrored or glass doors for your future wardrobe, you will have to order them in advance; it is unlikely that the store will have blanks with your dimensions.

Among other things, you will need a roller system and fittings (handles, fasteners, rivets, corners). Fortunately, there are a huge number of them on the construction market.

Preparatory work

Before starting work related to assembling the sliding wardrobe, the niche space should be prepared in the most careful way. Preparation consists of leveling all the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche.

Leveling is carried out with appropriate building mixtures intended for putty. They are prepared according to the manufacturers' instructions, and then applied to surfaces that require leveling using a spatula.

After the putty has dried, the leveled surfaces should be treated with antiseptic compounds; if desired, the walls of the niche can be painted with water-based paint that has the same color as the chipboard of the future wardrobe.

Wardrobe assembly

Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is quite simple. Installation begins with the installation of a chipboard sheet that serves as the floor of the structure. Its installation requires careful alignment, since the appearance of the entire future structure depends on the accuracy of its horizontal position. Horizontalness is checked using a building level; if necessary, wooden stands of appropriate sizes are inserted into the right places.

After the bottom sheet is installed, you should begin installing the side walls and partitions of the various sections. All these structural elements are attached to the bottom sheet using corners and screws. It is better to choose metal corners as they are stronger than plastic ones.

When installing the vertical components of a built-in wardrobe, it is also necessary to very carefully check the verticality and, if necessary, correct it.

The stage of assembling the base of the structure ends with the installation of the top sheet of chipboard, which is attached to the end of the side walls and partitions of the sections with the same corners and screws. After the box of the future cabinet is assembled, it should be inserted into a niche and secured to its walls. This will require the effort of several people who will place the base of the cabinet in a pre-prepared place with a perfectly horizontal bottom plane.

The structure is secured to the side walls by drilling holes in the side walls of the cabinet and part of the niche wall and then fixing it using dowels of the appropriate size.

At the next stage, you should place horizontal shelves in accordance with the previously developed sketch of the sliding wardrobe. Actually, the installation of horizontal elements can be done in two ways.

• First way more labor-intensive and time-consuming, it involves installing shelves in the body of the structure after it has already been fixed in the niche opening. In this case, furniture corners designed to support shelves are attached to the side walls and vertical partitions in the required place, and the shelves themselves are installed on them.
• Second way provides for making the required number of holes in the side walls and vertical partitions, as well as holes in the ends of the side elements, before starting to assemble the base. The shelves are installed in place using a tongue-and-groove connection; the operation is performed at the stage of assembling the base. This method guarantees higher accuracy of installation of the shelves, however, in this case, the total weight of the structure increases significantly and, accordingly, when placing the base in the niche opening, the efforts of more people will be required than when installing the base without shelves.

Which method is more preferable is a matter of your choice.

Next, we need to install the mirrored moving doors on the guides. Guides and movable rollers should be purchased from a store that sells furniture accessories. From a single strip of guide purchased in a store, two strips of the required length should be cut for subsequent fastening at the bottom and top of the cabinet base.Fastening is carried out taking into account the parallelism of these elements, using self-tapping screws.

Now about the doors. Doors, like all other elements, can be cut from a single sheet to the appropriate dimensions at the stage of purchasing the raw materials. A mirror of the required size is fixed to the surface of the door using a product called “liquid nails for the surface of mirrors.” I don’t think it’s worth talking about ensuring that the mirror is fixed level.

Movable rollers, designed to move the door along the guide, are fixed in certain places of the door - in its lower and upper parts with self-tapping screws. After all the doors are prepared, they have mirrors and rollers, they should be installed on the base.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in the process of making a wardrobe with your own hands. All you need for this is imagination, skills in working with carpentry tools and a great desire.

DIY wardrobe video

Another way to arrange a wardrobe. Video

Many people are familiar with the eternal problem of lack of space: everything is always out of place, the purchased cabinets are insufficient or do not fit. If you are facing these difficulties, now is the time to customize your room so that it perfectly suits your personal needs and requirements. Making furniture to order is too expensive, but you can assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, saving a lot of money. In this article we will give you detailed instructions with drawings and assembly diagrams.

The main housing in Russia is small Khrushchev-type apartments, in which every square meter counts. Old Soviet wardrobes are very bulky and roomy - there are useless legs on the bottom, a dust collector on top and empty space, which is usually filled with a mezzanine. Our homemade wardrobe is free of these disadvantages, because it is located either in a niche or the entire height of the room, thus using every centimeter of space.

• The main advantage is spaciousness and compactness. The useful volume of space is 2.5 times greater than that of conventional furniture.
• Sliding doors are why we love sliding wardrobes. They are very practical and do not take up much space.
• Beautiful design - the ability to make doors from a mirror, frosted glass, apply sandblasting, stickers and use any other material to decorate sliding doors.
• Possibility to zone a room using a partition from a closet. We also note that the use of full-length mirrors will have a good effect on the space of the room, making it larger and brighter.

The main disadvantage is the price: if you buy a wardrobe to order or in a store, it will not cost you at all. However, it is quite possible to make a wardrobe with your own hands, the main thing is not to panic and follow the planned work plan.

Cabinet design

Before assembling the wardrobe, you need to finally decide on its drawing and location. Everything is individual here, and there can be no specific advice, just find a good place for the closet. This could be a closet, a niche in the wall, or just a corner in the room.

If free space is not limited, then choose the size of the cabinet according to the golden ratio rule, according to which the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.

Thus, if your ceiling is 2.5 m high, then it would be optimal to choose a cabinet length of 154 cm (250/1.62=154.3). The depth of standard furniture parts is usually 60 cm; there is no need to make it more, otherwise it will be inconvenient to get distant things from the upper shelves. Also note that all internal parts must be at least 10 cm narrower due to the width of the doors.

When you decide on the installation location, you need to draw up drawings. Make a detailed diagram of the cabinet and all shelves with dimensions on paper or on the computer (choose the Basic Cabinet or Excel program). Specialized programs will be able to give you with one button the number and dimensions of the required parts for cutting, which is very convenient.

When modeling interior shelves, you can’t do without your significant other, otherwise you’ll have to redo everything later. Modeling is one of the most important stages, which should be devoted to a separate topic, so now we will only briefly present our sliding wardrobe project with dimensions.
Drawing of a built-in wardrobe in a niche
This wardrobe diagram is designed to be created in a closet with a beam at the top. Therefore, mirrored doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.

Filling

When creating the shelves, we will use ordinary light-colored chipboard boards. To fasten them we will use metal corners and self-tapping screws.

After calculating the materials for the cabinet, we bought the necessary parts and ordered cutting and edge processing on site:

1. 3 parts 150x60 cm (horizontal);
2. 2 parts 200x60 cm (vertical for walls);
3. 1 vertical partition 135x60 cm;
4. 3 vertical partitions for shelf compartments 32.5x60 cm;
5. 1 horizontal sheet 150x30 cm for the shelf behind the beam;
6. 3 partitions for a shelf behind a beam 30x40 cm.

The main thing here is not to make mistakes in the calculations, so before ordering parts, carefully study the drawing and calculate all the gaps.

Build process

Now about how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands.

• First, we laid the 150x60 piece on the floor and attached two side boards to it. By the way, if you have a plinth, it is better to remove it, otherwise you will have to cut the walls at an angle. The fastening took place using dowels to the wall and metal corners to the bottom board using self-tapping screws. Some people use plastic furniture corners for shelves, but they are not so reliable: a child will stand on the shelf and it will collapse.
• Then we assembled the internal shelves separately: we connected 2 horizontal boards 150x60 (which will be above the bar) with a vertical piece 135x60 and three small transverse compartments 32.5x60.
• The finished compartments were secured to the cabinet in the same way, using corners and screws. If you have access to the side walls, then you can use a Euroscrew for fastening - a popular furniture fastener that is used for tables and shelves.
• Now all that remains is to make the upper shelves; we also prepared them separately from the outside. We attached three vertical partitions 30x40 every 50 centimeters to a horizontal board 150x30.

Note! If you are making a cabinet with a full-length top lid, you may have problems with its fastening. In this case, leave the required height so that you can climb up with a hexagon from above or attach the cover to the corners from the inside.

As a result, we got 2 large compartments for hangers, where all outerwear, shirts, dresses, etc. will fit. Then there is 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side is divided into 3 small compartments. Above there is one wide shelf, which is divided into 3 narrow compartments against the wall. And at the very top there is a shelf for unnecessary things. Everything is shown in the photo below.

Door installation

Now about the most difficult part - the wardrobe. In order not to make a mistake with the size, it is better to buy them after assembling the frame. You can watch a video about assembling a mirror door from profiles:

It is not recommended to make the width of sliding doors more than 1 meter, so if the length of the cabinet is 154 cm, divide it in half: each door, roughly speaking, is 77 cm + an overlap of 2-4 cm so that there is no gap.

Calculation of wardrobe doors
Regarding the height of the doors, it is important to consider the height of the lining and wheels.

For example:

1. 250 centimeters - ceiling height (or opening);
2. 1.6 cm - thickness of laminated chipboard linings on top and bottom;
3. The gap at the top and bottom is 1.5 cm for the wheels;

Total: 250-1.6-1.6-1.5-1.5 = 243.8 cm - the height of our doors. You should have side handle profiles of this height. The clearance figures may vary, it all depends on the profiles used, so read the instructions from their manufacturer.
Sliding door design

To finally figure out how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, the video lesson will tell you all the details during installation:

Conclusion

By doing all the work yourself, you will save 2-3 times more money than ordering a similar cabinet in a store, and you will also make it several times faster if desired. The main thing is to be careful and calculate every action before starting work. As they say, measure twice, cut once.

If you are tired of always looking for a place to put your things, and the options for purchased wardrobes do not match in color, style and even size.

You can, of course, try to order a cabinet according to your drawings, but if you want to save money and really get the cabinet you wanted, it makes sense to make it yourself.

Selecting a location

First of all, you must decide in which room the wardrobe will be located, and what approximate dimensions it should have.

It’s better to take a tape measure for this and simply measure the place where your future cabinet will stand, write down the width, length and height of the furniture on a piece of paper.

Advantages and disadvantages of a sliding wardrobe

Advantages:

· You can choose any color that suits you;

· Any external finishing, you choose the material for the cabinet yourself;

· Any number of branches that you choose;

· Individual planning;

· Space saving;

· Saving money (the cabinet will cost you much less than a purchased one or a custom one);

· Possibility of installing internal lighting;

· Ability to mask room imperfections (uneven walls, etc.);

· The cabinet can easily fit into any interior.

· Saving free space due to sliding doors.

Disadvantages of the cabinet:

The disadvantages are directly related to the standards.

· You cannot make a cabinet longer than 5 meters;

· Specific door width;

· There is limited access to things that are at different heights (it’s more difficult to get to the top ones).

Drawings for a sliding wardrobe

Having measured how much space your future wardrobe will occupy, you can begin to develop a plan.

If you have difficulties in decorating your furniture, we offer you several samples:

To bring the plan to life you will need:

Pre-sawn chipboard

Drill (for self-tapping screws) and for drilling holes

· Hammer drill (if you need to make holes in the walls)

· Hammer

Rubber mallet

· Construction level, tape measure, meter ruler

· PVA glue

· Wooden and steel corners

· Self-tapping screws, dowels, guides, wheels.

Wardrobe installation sequence

It is relatively easy to assemble a cabinet for a hallway or another room; the main thing is not to make a mistake in preparing the components for it, which must be exactly in accordance with the drawing.

Assembling the cabinet should begin by calculating the required amount of material and cutting it. Then we install the bottom chipboard strip, which is best treated with an antiseptic beforehand.

Check the level to ensure that the surface is perfectly level; if not, then place wooden stands and level it.

Interesting! Display cabinet made from an old suitcase.

Once the bottom is level and in place, you need to work on the sides (all the vertical ones) and then the partitions.

We install them using corners and self-tapping screws (metal corners provide greater strength).

Also, do not forget about verticality (using a building level); during installation, you can still change it a little.

When the top sheet of chipboard is installed, the base of the structure can be considered ready. Pay attention to verticality.

It can be adjusted during installation.

Then you need to install and secure all small shelves with corners (exactly according to the drawing), with shiny metal pipes for future hangers with clothes.

Now let's work on the doors for the wardrobe

Doors can either be ordered separately with any coating or made from this material yourself.

Please note that the width of one leaf should not exceed 1 meter.

If our cabinet length is 240 cm, then we make three doors (we divide 240 by three and get 80, and add 2 cm for the overlap). In total, we have 82 cm for each sash.

We've calculated the width, now let's move on to the height.

According to our plan, the height of the entire cabinet is 260 cm, from this we must subtract the height of the linings (top and bottom) by 1.6 cm and the gap for the wheels by another 1.5 cm at the top and bottom.

260-3.2-3 = 253.7 cm

But when making calculations, you need to take into account that the width of the pads and the height of the wheels may differ.

We take pre-prepared width guides and attach two pieces at the top and bottom of the cabinet, making sure they are parallel.

First, we fasten the upper guides using self-tapping screws, then, using a plumb line, we place and fasten the lower ones. You need to insert stoppers into the bottom guide.

After installing the stoppers, we’ll work on the doors (it’s better to do this together). The top far flap is inserted into the groove first, and make sure that the wheels go in until they click.

We do the same with the bottom of the door, immediately check whether the door moves freely. Using the same principle, we install the second door and the third. Lastly, we glue special tapes onto the sides of the doors so that the doors do not hit the sides of the cabinet.

The technology of creating a cabinet itself is very simple; you only need suitable tools and well-sawn chipboard sheets.

Video on how to assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands

How to glue furniture edges on chipboard, in detail. (Do-it-yourself wardrobe. Part 2)

By assembling the cabinet with your own hands, you will not only give your wife a nice gift, but also save almost half the cost of the finished product.

Many apartments still have old, Soviet-made furniture that has long gone out of fashion, physically and morally outdated, cluttering up the space of already very small rooms. However, at the same time, it should be noted that most often the material from which it is made has retained good quality, and it can be used to build modern versions of cabinets and bookshelves.

If you recall furniture walls with numerous cabinets, drawers and cabinets, you can easily imagine how many panels of different sizes can be obtained in order to make more compact, comfortable and modern pieces of furniture. How to make built-in furniture in a modern design, spending a minimum of money on it, and at the same time freeing rooms from bulky outdated structures will be discussed further.

Before moving on to the next sections, it is advisable to understand the advantages of built-in furniture made by yourself.

• If the furniture is made from material that will be obtained as a result of dismantling old cabinets or other pieces of furniture, then you can get significant savings on the family budget.
• Everyone knows that even in panel houses the walls are often not perfectly even. Well, with the help of built-in furniture you can perfectly disguise this flaw, and, again, save on construction work to level the surfaces.
• The owners are given an excellent opportunity to show their creativity when developing a project, and then reproduce their own design and engineering solution, making a piece of furniture that is as comfortable as possible for use.
• Serious savings in the usable space of the room are achieved. Almost every apartment has areas where it is difficult to fit standard pieces of furniture, and for those items that will be made to order, you will have to pay double the price. When developing your own project, you can provide for all the nuances and dimensions of the area where the cabinet or shelf will be built.
• And, of course, furniture made with your own hands will give you a reason to be justifiably proud of your amateur talents.

Materials for the manufacture of built-in furniture

In addition to chipboard panels, inherited from disassembled cabinets, other materials can be used to make pieces of furniture.

• Today, plasterboard is extremely popular, from which not only built-in wardrobes are built, but even entire walls with niches and cabinets for one or even two rooms. This material has become so widespread due to the ease of its processing and the ease of installation, which can be carried out even by novice craftsmen with no experience. Its low price and environmental friendliness are also attractive.

Try to innovate your room with drywall!

You can learn how to work correctly with this material, quickly and easily creating various structures, from a special publication on our portal dedicated to independent construction.

• Natural wood has traditionally been an excellent material for making furniture. The old masters managed to build cabinets without a single nail, and some of these pieces of furniture, made at the beginning of the last century, are still in use today. Wood has many very important advantages over other materials - environmental friendliness, natural pattern and relief, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

• Plywood is another material from which built-in furniture can also be made. It is often used in combination with wood, covering frames with plywood and making panels. The manufacturing process of plywood involves the use of glue, so it cannot be called a 100% environmentally friendly material, although there are varieties with minimal, almost zero emission of phenol-containing substances.

• Chipboard is a board made from sawdust and shavings, which are mixed with glue and then pressed into a given shape. Then the slabs are given an aesthetic appearance by lamination or veneering. Such boards can be harmless to health or dangerous, depending on the glue that was used in their manufacture. Soviet furniture most often consists of slabs produced in accordance with GOST under strict control, so it can be called relatively safe compared to modern products of completely unknown origin. If furniture panels are purchased in a store, you should pay attention to the environmental safety group - E0 or E1 are required for living rooms.

• In addition to materials for making furniture, it is necessary to select modern fittings that suit the design - handles, locks, canopies, guides, rollers, hangers, etc. There will be no problems with these furniture accessories, since today they can be found in specialized hardware stores for every request and taste.

Where can built-in furniture be installed?

Built-in furniture is an excellent way out of small-sized or one-room apartments. It can be fixed, as mentioned above, near walls that have never been used to install cabinets along them. In addition, it will fit perfectly into a wall that has a small surface area and is too small to install a standard cabinet. Such areas of rooms mainly include external walls, with window openings located in them, and internal ones, with a door frame located in the center.

They usually try to cover the wall around the window with curtains, without even thinking that it can be functional - this is what the vast majority of apartment owners do. However, if a set of shelves is fixed on its surface, having a shallow depth sufficient to accommodate books, then the structure does not fit the same curtains and cornices. They can easily be fixed not only to the ceiling, but also to the panels of the upper shelves. Having installed such a structure, you can immediately see how much area of ​​the room will be freed from cabinets, and plan it for other needs.

This wall of the room can only be used if it is absolutely dry, without the appearance of mold formations, otherwise the pathogenic microflora will quickly spread to the books, and its spores will hover in the air of the rooms, which is quite dangerous for human health.

Paper is an excellent insulator, and books placed on shelves close to each other will create a kind of heat-insulating barrier, so the room will become warmer.

Another common option for installing built-in wardrobes is in the area of ​​walls around interior or entrance doors. By securing the furniture in this way, you can solve two problems - saving space and additional soundproofing of the room.

Calculation of dimensions and drawing up drawings

Once you have chosen the location where the cabinet or shelving will be installed, you can begin to plan the placement of shelves and doors. The process of making a sketch and drawing with exact dimensions can be done using special applications - they can be found on the Internet. If this path seems difficult, then an ordinary sheet of paper, pencil, or ruler will do.

The first calculation option will be more accurate, since the program will calculate not only all the parameters of the cabinet, but also the quantity and even the approximate cost of parts and fittings.

Video: example of designing a built-in wardrobe using a specialized application

The self-planning method helps you understand all the nuances right on the spot and makes it possible to immediately make the necessary adjustments. But you will have to work very carefully on the drawing, since all the necessary parts will be made from it. Particular care in drawing up the diagram will be required if the parts will be made according to it to order, in a workshop.

If a piece of built-in furniture will be constructed from chipboard, plywood or solid boards of approximately the same thickness, then the drawing for them is drawn up in the same way. If plasterboard is used to make a cabinet or shelves, calculations are made taking into account the width of the metal profiles from which the frame will be mounted, since the narrowest of them is 50 mm wide and 27 mm deep.

Find out, with illustrated instructions, from a new article on our portal.

Built-in wardrobe with rear panel

Such a cabinet can be made of chipboard, plywood or solid boards 16 mm thick. Built-in furniture is equipped with a back panel covering the wall surface, or the interior wall itself serves as it.

This cabinet model has a height of 2600 mm, a width of 2400 mm and a depth of 650 mm. This design includes a back panel, but it is quite possible to simply mount the cabinet to the wall.

Parts for assembling the cabinet

For such a cabinet you will need to make the following parts:

the name of detail	Part size, mm			Number of parts, pcs.
	Length	Width	Height
Side walls	2584	650		2
Internal vertical partitions	2568	550		2
Cabinet bottom panel	2068	650		1
Cabinet ceiling panel with rounded corner	2584	650		1
Vertical panel extending beyond the cabinet	2600	308		1
Horizontal side shelves with rounded corner	634	285		3
Drawers	2568	586	220	3
Lower horizontal shelves	650	400		1
	800	400		1
Upper horizontal shelves	650	550		1
	800	550		1
Horizontal shelves above drawers	550	586		5
Back panels are made of plywood or fiberboard (5 mm thick)	2600	665		1
	2600	816		1
	2600	610		1
Door panels	2600	694		1
	2560	669		2
Set of rollers				2 sets
Drawer guides	550			6 pairs
Shelf holders				44
Metal tubes with a diameter of 15 mm	816			1
	665			1
Drawer details:
Front and back walls	586	220		6
Side walls	518	220		6
Bottom panel (plywood or fiberboard)	586	550		3
Sliding door guides with two lines of runners for movement	2068	50		Set (upper and lower)

Manufacturing of parts

Manufacturing parts for any furniture structure is a rather complex and labor-intensive process that requires not only high precision, certain dexterity and increased accuracy, but also the availability of special tools for working on workpieces.

Illustration
	The first step is marking the chipboard panels, transferring the dimensions from the design drawing onto them and drawing cut lines. Next, all the cabinet parts are cut out. It should be noted that if the cutting is done with a hand hacksaw, it will require a lot of time and effort. Therefore, the work will go faster and more accurately if it is carried out using an electric circular saw or, in extreme cases, a jigsaw. To ensure a smooth edge without burrs, the cut must be made with a saw with fine teeth. In addition, it is recommended to stick masking tape along the edge of the cutting line, which will protect the laminated edge from chipping. If the edges are not quite even, they need to be trimmed with a file, rasp or plane. If you need to get a perfectly smooth edge of the parts or the model has rounded corners and other pattern configurations, then it is better to contact a workshop where there is special equipment that produces precise, down to the millimeter, cutting of any shape.
	If the furniture is made from panels obtained as a result of dismantling an old wall, and the height of the panels is not enough to build the intended project, then they will have to be increased.
	The connection of individual sheets can be done in different ways - this is a “groove-tenon”, using dowels, or using a special joining strip, into which two separate parts of the panel are installed on both sides with glue. The last connection method is the simplest, and is accessible even to an inexperienced craftsman.
	This cabinet model has shelves with rounded corners. To cut it beautifully, you need to draw a patterned cutting line using a construction or improvised compass. When sawing off rounded corners, use a jigsaw, being especially careful.
	The sawn parts are numbered and signed. If there is an appropriate tool, all edges of the parts are finished by milling. Then the finished parts are installed on the wall, following a certain sequence to simplify the search for the desired structural element.
	The outer end sides of the panels are covered with PVC edges specially designed for this purpose. The edges are secured to the end using a layer of glue applied to them, which begins to exhibit its adhesive properties after heating. To do this, the edge is placed on the end of the panel and smoothed with a heated iron. After the panels are processed and ready for assembly, the joints with other parts, as well as the fastening of fittings, are marked on them.

After all the parts have been manufactured, processed and laid out, the cabinet is assembled in accordance with the drawing.

If the cabinet or rack has a back panel that will give the product additional rigidity, then after connecting all the structural elements together, sheets of the back wall are attached to it from the back side to the ends of the panels, which are most often made of fiberboard or plywood 3÷5 mm thick . If the back wall is not planned, then the cabinet frame will have to be attached to the wall.

The presented cabinet can be assembled in different ways, and which one to choose is up to the master himself. Much in this case depends on the quality of the wall. To understand how the assembly is carried out, both installation options will be considered below.

Assembling a cabinet with a back panel

Assembly of the cabinet, fastened with the rear panel, occurs in the following sequence:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step at the place where the cabinet will be located is to level its bottom part. Unfortunately, the floors are not always level, so if necessary, small wooden pads are installed at one or two corners. In this case, it is advisable to immediately secure the exposed bottom of the cabinet to the floor surface.
	You can, of course, attach adjustable legs in the corners and in the middle part of the bottom panel, but this is done if the differences in floor height are very significant. In addition, you need to take into account the height of the cabinet. If it is close to the height of the ceiling, then the legs will not be suitable for the structure, and you will have to use wooden pads. The front end side of the floor panel must be covered with PVC edge.
	Next, after marking, it is necessary to prepare holes on the vertical panels of the cabinet for installing shelf holders, if they are removable, or for furniture corners, if the shelves are permanently fixed. The latter installation method will make the structure more rigid.
	Another way to secure shelves to vertical cabinet panels is to use eccentric screws. This fastener is more accurate and almost hidden from view, but it is more difficult to drill holes for it, as it requires perfect accuracy.
	In addition, runners for drawers are attached along the drawn lines on the walls.
	If there are sockets or a switch mounted on the wall near which the cabinet will be installed, and it will cover them from the cabinet panels, then holes of the required size and shape are marked and drilled in it using a drill or jigsaw.
	The next step is installation along the lines of the vertical walls marked on the bottom panel. They will have to be temporarily supported on the sides, since they will not be supported only by the lower fastenings. To hold them in the desired vertical position, several horizontal transverse shelves should be secured without much delay. Since this design has side rounded shelves, to secure them it is necessary to connect the outermost vertical panel and the board adjacent to the wall at a right angle. The board is secured with its end side to the outer side wall using eccentric screws on the rear side of the structure.
	Having fastened two vertical panels at right angles, you need to immediately install the side shelves. They are mounted on the side vertical wall of the cabinet using dowels installed with glue, and on the wall panel using confirmations (Euroscrews), which are screwed into the back side of the panel.
	Then, the top panel-roof of the cabinet is installed and secured - it is most often mounted using eccentrics. If the top panel is raised right up to the ceiling, then through it you can fix the cabinet on the ceiling.
	Another way to secure the top panel, as well as horizontal shelves on vertical partitions, can be furniture corners. After installing the top panel, all other shelves and hanging rods are secured.
	Next, three drawers are made according to the dimensions indicated in the table. For more accurate joining of the corners of the box elements, quarters can be selected along their edges. Drawers can have one front panel or two - internal and front. When installing a double front panel, the drawer handle will be held more firmly. In the lower part of the side, front and rear walls, slot-like grooves are cut into which the bottom of the box will slide.
	Therefore, the assembly proceeds as follows: - first, the front and side panels of the drawer are fastened together; - then the bottom part is pushed into their grooves; - and only after that the back panel is installed with glue, which is additionally fixed with furniture screws. It should be noted here that you can use ready-made drawers from a disassembled furniture wall, replacing only the front panel with them. In this case, when drawing up a project, it is necessary to immediately take into account all their parameters.
	The second part of the roller guide system must be secured to the side walls of the drawers using self-tapping screws.
	The guides can be attached to the bottom or middle of the side panel. In order not to be mistaken in the correct installation, you need to try on the drawers in the cabinet walls, based on the dimensions given in the drawing.
	Next, handles are selected for the drawers. For them, through holes are drilled in the centers of the front panels, and then the handles are screwed from the inside of the drawer.
	The next step is to install guides for sliding doors. The presented model has three door leaves: - middle, installed on the first line of guides, and having the ability to move to any side of the cabinet; - two side doors, each of which, when opened, can reach the other along the second line of guides.
	Using the markings, the upper rail for moving the doors is attached to the ceiling panel of the cabinet, and then the lower rail is attached to the floor panel. Next, spring rollers are attached to the doors, allowing you to easily install the doors into the fixed guide rails.

If desired or necessary, the structure can be fixed not only to the floor and ceiling, but also to the wall through the adjacent side panel of the cabinet from inside the structure.

The installation of compartment doors was mentioned in passing. But this is an extremely important point that requires comprehensive consideration. It is simply more expedient to refer the reader to detailed specialized instructions.

How to assemble and install wardrobe doors yourself?

Special components are sold in stores for such furniture elements. Very detailed illustrated instructions for self-assembly and adjustment are in a special publication on our portal.

Built-in wardrobe mounted directly to the wall

This section of the article will look at ways to attach the same cabinet (or any other) to the wall, without using the back panel. As mentioned above, this option is perfect for hiding uneven walls in a room.

Parts for cabinets are manufactured and processed in the same way as in the previous version or when choosing a different model. Their list and dimensions also remain unchanged, with the exception of the rear panel.

You can add to the list of materials with metal corners, with the help of which the walls of the cabinet will be fixed to the wall, or with timber, which can replace the corners and act as a wall frame. It should be noted that if the cabinet shelves are open, then it is better to use metal corners or a profile for fastening - these elements look more aesthetically pleasing than timber.

To understand how such installation is carried out, you need to consider its options in more detail.

The first option is a prefabricated panel structure

This cabinet can be either open or closed with sliding doors. In this case, the shelves are installed using metal corners. Work on its installation occurs in the following order:

• The first step is to draw up a design for a closet with the compartments that will be needed - these could be shelves for books, a wardrobe compartment or drawers intended for other needs. In the project, real dimensions are taken on a smaller scale - this is necessary in order not to make a mistake in the width or height of the location of certain parts. Moreover, it is better to make two copies of the project - on one of them put down the dimensions of the location of the parts on the wall, and on the other - the parameters of the structural elements themselves.
• Next, from a copy of the project, which shows how and where the vertical walls, as well as the top and bottom panels (if provided), will be primarily fixed, the places of their fixation are transferred to the wall. They must be determined by drawing precise vertical lines - along a plumb line.
• The first to be fixed to the floor is the floor panel of the cabinet, onto which vertical partitions can be fixed.
• Then, in the places of the drawn lines, the verticality of the wall plane is determined. To do this, you will need to prepare a perfectly even beam with a cross-sectional size of approximately 50×50 mm and a length almost equal to the height of the room’s ceiling, and a building level, or a level with a length of at least 2500 mm.

A level is placed on the wall at the indicated location, and with the help of it the difference in surface differences is determined. If it is about 3 mm, then this will not greatly affect the installation of the panels - even if a small gap is formed, then with the built-in version of the cabinet it will be almost invisible.

• In the case where the wall even visually looks uneven, there are two options to hide this flaw - level the wall with plaster or drywall, or fit the furniture panels of the side walls to the wall. The adjustment will have to be carried out gradually, cutting off the part from the panel that prevents it from completely pressing against the wall. Therefore, the side that will be adjacent to the wall will become uneven, but the front edge will be perfectly level.
• If the cabinet is mounted between two walls, then it is quite possible to completely abandon the outer vertical panels, installing only internal partitions.
• When the vertical panels are fitted to the wall, they should be immediately secured to their intended places so that you can begin marking the horizontal shelves, ceiling and floor front strips. To fix the vertical panels, metal corners are screwed onto them in three or four places on both sides. Then, the panel is leveled in relation to the walls, and on them, through holes in the corners, places are marked for drilling holes into which the dowel will be driven in and fasteners screwed in.
• Further, if you plan to install it on a built-in cabinet, then bars or strips parallel to each other are marked and secured on the ceiling and floor or bottom panel, determining the width of the internal space and intended for securing guide rails for moving the sashes.

• The next step, between the vertical internal partitions and walls, according to the drawing, is to mark the location of the horizontal shelves. Just like in the previous version of the cabinet, they are attached to furniture corners to vertical panels and walls. Horizontal shelves will connect the entire structure, secure it to the walls and give it rigidity.

• Next, rods for hangers and runners for drawers, if provided, are installed; the drawers themselves are made according to the dimensions of the project and installed in place.
• The final stage is the assembly and installation of sliding doors.

The second option is with a timber frame

This design is most often used to build a built-in wardrobe, since it is the easiest to work with.

To build it, first a frame is mounted from a wooden beam according to markings on the wall, which immediately determines the dimensions of the cabinet, that is, its height, width and depth. When these values ​​are known, it is easier to carry out the further process of securing the remaining elements of the cabinet and covering it with one of the selected materials.

A durable wooden frame can be covered not only with chipboard, but also with plywood, wooden or laminated fiberboard, as well as PVC panels - this criterion is chosen by the home craftsman himself, taking into account financial capabilities, design ideas and level of experience in working with a particular material.

It is much easier to attach both corners and panels to a wooden beam, so the work after erecting the frame will go quite quickly. The marking of horizontal shelves occurs in the same way as in the previous options, and vertical partitions are usually always formed by timber. Thanks to a more durable design, such cabinets can be equipped not only with sliding doors, but also with hinged ones - in some cases, the second option is preferable to the first.

The third option is with aluminum profiles

It is also quite possible to install a built-in wardrobe using this technology yourself, if you can produce all the necessary parts for the structure. An important condition when choosing the presented option for building a cabinet is that it can only be installed between two walls, that is, in a fairly narrow room, but across its entire width.

With this approach, to attach the panels to the wall, an aluminum U-shaped profile is used, which has a clearance width between the shelves that is 1÷2 mm greater than the thickness of the chipboard panels from which all other cabinet elements are made. In the presented model, the profile width is 16 mm, with a panel thickness of 15 mm.

The panels are neatly installed into the profile, and often do not require additional fastening at all. In those places where the shelves will bear a higher load, the bottom profile is additionally reinforced with a small chipboard panel.

Work on installing the cabinet occurs in the same sequence as when starting the assembly of any structure attached to the wall:

• Drawing up a project.
• Manufacturing of cabinet parts.
• Marking the wall surface using a plumb line, level, ruler and tape measure.
• Fastening to the wall according to the markings of the metal profile.
• Laying and fixing the floor panel and screwing profiles to it for installing vertical panels.
• Installation of vertical partitions - they are pushed into a profile mounted on the wall and on the floor panel.
• Next, the top horizontal panel is tried on, and the location of the vertical partitions is marked on it. Then, it is removed, and profiles are also screwed to it, which will hold the partitions in their upper part. After this, the top panel is finally installed.

• Then, all other horizontal shelves are mounted in the same way. They are installed in profiles that are fixed to the wall and to vertical panels. When the horizontal shelves are secured, the structure will become more rigid and durable.
• If the project includes the installation of drawers, then they must be installed between two chipboard panels, since without support on both sides they may not withstand the load. Therefore, this must be taken into account when designing.

• In the example under consideration, the structures are planned, therefore, for them, double-slide guides are fixed to the ceiling and bottom of the cabinet to move them, since both doors must move in one direction or the other.
• The last step is to install the movable door leaves and test them.

To conclude the publication, here is another clear example of high-quality assembly of a built-in wardrobe:

Video: assembly of a built-in wardrobe without a back wall

So, if you have the necessary tools, assembling built-in furniture with your own hands is a completely doable task. Much more difficult seems to be the high-quality production of all structural parts. It is best to carry out this process with professional tools, which are not found in every home. Therefore, having completed and thoroughly checked the drawing, having all the necessary materials, it is better to order their cutting and processing in a carpentry workshop - it will be much faster and more accurate. And with high-quality, well-fitted parts, the installation process becomes a real pleasure.