Electrical appliances are taking up more and more space in the household. Smartphones, tablets, computers and televisions are found in almost every home. Single or dual power points are not enough to operate all of these devices. As a rule, with modern electrical wiring installation, a socket block consisting of several connectors is connected.

What is a socket assembly?

This is a structure consisting of several connection points, often having different purposes. For example, an outlet block may consist of a pair of electrical (220 V), one television and one computer network or USB connector, through which you can connect to the Internet, as well as for connecting to other computing devices. The assembly may also contain telephone sockets, which are quite common in modern offices. Installation of a block consisting of several socket devices is carried out in one of 3 ways:

• by embedding into the wall;
• externally;
• using portable modules - such as multi-socket extension cords or retractable structures.

The designs can be supplemented with various types of devices: fuses, indicators, plug ejectors, automatic devices.

How is internal installation performed?

With this type of installation, the socket block is installed directly inside a brick, reinforced concrete or block wall. For this purpose, special boxes are used - socket boxes, to which electrical, television and other cables are supplied. In most cases, each power point uses its own socket box. This is mandatory for detachable devices that have different purposes.

If, for example, an assembly has two electrical connectors, one box may be used for them. There are combinations of power sockets with lighting switches. This solution is advisable to carry out where rooms have limited space - for example, in bathrooms.

Surface mounting and its features

This installation option is preferable when the wiring is made outside the walls and enclosed inside the boxes. In this case, the installation of a block of socket devices has its own characteristics.

• No socket boxes are required here. External sockets are attached directly to the wall surface.
• If the block contains a connector for connecting a television receiver or a computer network, then it will not be possible to combine power outlets with them in a single assembly. You will have to supplement such designs with single television or computer connectors.
• With surface-mounted installation, replacing the socket block is much easier than with internal installation. There is no need to run the wiring inside the new socket box.

Retractable structures

Such retractable devices are usually built into furniture and are often used in the kitchen. When power is not required, they hide in the countertop and do not interfere with cooking. If you need to connect a food processor, a television device or some other gadget, this design extends by pressing a button or in another way.

The convenience of such solutions is that they have an aesthetic appearance, can be installed in a limited space and do not require the destruction of walls by creating holes. In addition to retractable ones, there are also rotating structures.

What does a socket block consist of?

The block of electrical power sockets built into the wall consists of the following parts:

• front panels;
• one common frame for the entire structure;
• housings with grounding, phase and neutral contacts;
• socket boxes - one or several.

As a rule, such structures are installed at a height of 300 mm from the floor - this is the most practical distance. You can do it higher - for example, 90 cm from the floor, as they did in Soviet times. This distance is convenient for switches. At least there are no hard and fast rules on this matter.

Each room must have its own machine. An exception may be the bathroom and kitchen, where several machines are sometimes used. If there are small children in the apartment, it is necessary to provide additional safety measures - equip the devices with protective curtains.

For installation of electrical wiring, a 2 or 3-core wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm is used. It is advisable to use copper because it has much better electrical conductivity than aluminum, although such wires are more expensive.

Installation details

How to install a socket block indoors? The first thing you need to decide is where to install the modular structure. It should be located as close as possible to the electrical devices used so that they can be conveniently connected. For example, in the kitchen, the optimal place for an outlet block is above the countertop, so that it is convenient to turn on a food processor, mixer, electric meat grinder and other household appliances. The number of power points depends on how many devices will be used simultaneously, and is also determined by the presence of a television connector.

If the socket group is installed in the bathroom, you should remember that its distance to the water must be at least 60 cm. In addition, the housings of the electrical sockets must be protected from moisture to avoid short circuits.

When you have decided on the location, you need to prepare a hammer drill that will be used to punch the walls. The material of the walls - brick, concrete, plasterboard - determines which attachment will need to be used. Tools such as a level, tape measure and marker will also come in handy. Next, the walls are marked, for which a marker is used. The location of the sockets is indicated. The distance between their centers must be exactly 72 mm, otherwise the frame may not fit onto the front panels. If the devices are not installed as a block, but as a collection of separate connectors, then this condition is not necessary.

Before connecting the socket block, the walls are grooved for electrical wiring. To ensure that it runs strictly horizontally or vertically, a building level is used. In order to make recesses in brick or concrete walls, you first need to cut through the seats of the socket boxes with a crown. The holes are then knocked out using a chisel and hammer. Installing a socket block in drywall is even easier.

When the holes are ready, rosette glasses are inserted into them and secured there with a plaster solution. The glasses are attached to the drywall using special claws located on the sides.

Electrical connection

When the gypsum solution has dried and the socket block has been installed, you can proceed to the final stage. How to connect the socket block to the electrical network? There are two methods for this - loop and combined (parallel).

The connectors are connected in a daisy-chain manner from one incoming cable. This option is convenient and most common. It is implemented if powerful appliances are not connected to the sockets - for example, a washing machine, boiler, oven and others. This connection uses less cable. All points are connected in series with jumpers made of cores, which are taken from the same cable that is laid.

It should be noted that the current Electrical Installation Rules (ELI) prohibit breaking the neutral and ground wires. Unfortunately, they don’t pay much attention to this and install socket connectors everywhere in this way.

If you plan to connect something powerful, you can use a combined method. Two wires are laid in a corrugation from the panel with the machine. One is connected to a powerful connector, the other is used to connect the remaining points in series.

Each of the laid cables must pass through itself up to 16 Amperes of current without strong heating. If the outlet block includes a low-current television or computer cable, a separate groove is made for it, and it is also supplied in its own corrugation.

Another type of connection is practiced - a star or a branch. This is done when some powerful consuming device can be connected to each of the points. A separate cable goes to each connector from the shield. If there is grounding, you will have to pull 3 wires. For a three-phase network of modern standards TN-C-S and TN-S, you will need to lay 5 wires. This method is the most expensive in terms of the amount of cable used and labor, because each cable needs to be tapped separately.

All cables are laid with a small margin so that in the future, when replacing sockets, you can reconnect them without any problems. After the cables are connected to the internal contacts, the sockets are secured inside the socket boxes, the front panels are screwed on and the frame is put on.

You don't have to be an electrician to understand the process of installing sockets and switches. You need to know the simple rules and stages of work formulated in this article.

Important to know before starting work

Safety conditions

It is important to do all work on installing sockets and switches, laying electrical communications only after the current in the network has been completely turned off. Turn off the automatic or traffic jams. And do not connect until the installation work is completed.

Take the indicator and make sure that the outlet or wiring you are going to work on is de-energized. Professionals suggest using two indicators at once. This will ensure that unwanted consequences are avoided.

Points to consider

1. You should monitor the condition of the wire insulation and do not use damaged wires.
2. It is strictly prohibited to cut live wires with wire cutters.
3. In places where wiring has already been laid, you cannot chisel, drill or cut walls.

Any contact of a screwdriver with the zero and phase wires inevitably provokes a short circuit in the network.

Socket installation standards:

• not lower than 20 cm from the floor;
• for every 6–10 sq. m. of living rooms, one socket is made.

Rules for installing sockets and switches

In order for the installed system to serve for a long time, it is important to choose the right wires and cables to be connected and lay them out correctly.

To do this, you should take into account:

1. The power of all future energy-consuming appliances in an apartment or house. The performance of all devices is simply added together. It is necessary to know what the maximum power allocated by the network is.
2. The choice of wire or cable type depends on the method of laying it: open or internal. It is necessary to decide which gasket is suitable for a specific electrical installation location.
3. When laying wiring, do not lay the wires in bunches.

Important! Do-it-yourself installation of an electrical outlet, wiring and further installation of lighting is possible provided that a distribution board has already been installed and configured by a professional (electrician) at the site or in the apartment. It is not recommended to collect it yourself, without special education - it is life-threatening.

Installing a wall socket

What you need:

• socket
• electrical wires (you should choose a cross-section of at least 2 sq. mm.)
• socket box

So, after choosing a location for the outlet and turning off the current, we proceed directly to installation:

• We place the distance from the floor 30–100 cm. Mark the installation location with a pencil. We calculate the distance from the distribution board to the designated location and determine how many meters of wiring are needed.
• We install a special attachment in the drill chuck for drilling holes, corresponding to the type of wall and work with electrical fittings.

Tip: when there is no special attachment, and a single installation of the device is planned, use the following method: using the marked sketch of the socket (more precisely, the socket box), drill holes directly on the wall, and knock out the socket using a chisel and hammer.

• Turn on the drill, if necessary, take an extension cord that is suitable in power for the electric drill you are using.
• Put on protection (goggles and, if possible, a respirator) and drill the required hole in the wall.
• Make a groove for the electrical wire. Use a grinder with a suitable disc or make a groove using a chisel and hammer.
• Then the socket box (through which the wiring is pulled out) is installed and fixed in the finished hole.

Tip: measure the wiring generously, as a short length complicates the process of connecting to an outlet. And if in the future there is a need to replace an item, then the stock will make the work easier. Moreover, sometimes the wires burn out and, having a spare, the old ones are simply cut off. Without a supply, replacing a socket becomes much more difficult.

• The wire laid in the groove and all chips and depressions in the area of ​​the socket box are covered with plaster (alabaster). We wait until it dries completely.

The first part of the work is completed.

Connection

Open the junction box. Then the electrical wire is connected using terminal clamps.

Modern methods of connecting wires using terminals and terminal blocks:

Connection methods using terminals

Important: the thicker the IPL, the more the cable costs. But you shouldn't skimp on wiring. A weak (cheap) wire can burn out, and replacing it will take an impressive amount of money and a lot of effort.

1. Remove the cover from the outlet. Loosen or remove the screws that will clamp the wires. Insert the ends of the wire (after stripping them in advance) and fasten tightly with the screws.
2. The screws of the installed legs are loosened and brought together to the body of the socket, which is inserted and secured (in the process of tightening the screws) into the socket box. The legs, spreading to the sides, are fixed to the socket and hold the structure in the wall.
3. It is recommended to ensure that all wiring is connected.

Turn on the power and test the operation.

Types of sockets and socket boxes and rules for their installation

Along with standard power sockets and switches, new items and variations of these items have appeared on the market, differing significantly from their predecessors. But the basic principle of their performance has not changed.

Sockets

Each device consists of:

• contacts;
• bases (pads);
• protective housing.

A contact is a key element through which current is transmitted from the cable to the contacts of the connected device.

Sockets have three wires: phase, neutral and ground. In the old ones there are only two of them - phase and zero.

The socket block is the base on which the contacts and the protective housing are held. When the socket is built-in, there are fastenings on the block for its installation in the socket box.

Housing - outer cover with holes for the plug.

Two types of devices:

1. Outdoor;
2. Internal (in the wall).

The process for connecting them is the same. The only difference is in the way they are mounted on the wall. For devices with closed wiring, they take a special box into which the socket itself is inserted.

Socket boxes and their installation

These items are divided into two types:

1. The first one is under plaster. A hole is drilled either in concrete or brick. A socket box is installed in this mounting hole on plaster or alabaster.
2. If there is any wall covering, that is, plasterboard, or MDF panels, or plastic, and so on, trimmers built under the gypsum board are used. The diameter of the drilled holes is 68 mm.

Also, for a certain line of electrical fittings (sockets, switches), special trimmers are used, supplied directly by the manufacturer of the fittings. For example, the company ANAM - specialized trimmers.

Outdoor socket

It is used for open installation of electrical wires. Especially when wood trim is used indoors, it is the outdoor device that is safer. The openness of the wires makes it possible to quickly find possible problems and prevent a fire. The socket itself is simply screwed to the wall.

If mounting on wood, then:

• be sure to use a special paronite gasket between the device and the material;
• then fixing the wiring to the terminals and placing a decorative cover on the base of the device.

The assembly is ready.

Internal socket

The installation process is a little different. For fixing, you will need a special box to install the device into. It is inserted into a hole in the wall and secured with screws.

When the wall is made of plasterboard, then:

• choose special boxes with ears.

Boxes can be metal (old version) or plastic (modern standards). Their diameter may vary. When choosing, take this point into account, since modern sockets are most often sold under plastic.

1. Unscrew the cover from the socket and install it in the box.
2. The device is secured with screws of the spacer legs.
3. Connect the wires.
4. The structure is closed with a decorative overlay.

Important! Fixing the screws should be done diligently. If the contact is weak, the socket will become hot during use.

Then turn on the electricity and check the device.

Replacing a built-in socket

If it is necessary to replace an element, the old socket is first dismantled.

Dismantling

Installation

After all dismantling steps have been completed, the installation of a new outlet begins.

First action. The wires that were removed earlier are reduced to the required length. It ranges from 15 to 20 cm. Then one and a half cm is cleared of insulation.

Second act. The wires should be connected to the device.

Third. The wires are bent, the socket box is placed in the workplace and secured with claws or screws (depending on the model).

Fourth act. The outer frame is installed and the panel is screwed on.

Fifth. After all the steps have been completed, the electricity supply is turned on to check the operation of the device.

Installation of sockets in any apartment

Power calculation

For example, the apartment has: a refrigerator, TV, washing machine and laptop. Their total power is about 3.5 kW. It is planned to add an air conditioning system, an electric stove, a PC, and replace the lighting circuit with a more advanced one. Energy use will increase. To avoid having to change the wiring, you should calculate everything right away. The wiring data can be viewed in the table:

Bathroom Standards

For spaces with high humidity, some features stand out when installing electrical fittings:

• sockets are not mounted less than half a meter from grounded parts: sinks, pipes, batteries, fittings;
• plug sockets are installed 50–100 cm from the floor;
• “above-plinth” devices (in which the sockets are slammed shut after the plugs are pulled out) are mounted no closer than 30 cm from the floor.

Important! In damp rooms, a hidden wiring method is used.

Installation of sockets and switches in a panel house

The panel house has the following features:

1. The wiring is done using the open method, and accordingly, with this type of installation, the sockets stick out from the wall and there is no need to drill anything.
2. Closed wiring. In a panel house (brick too) the concrete is strong and in order to carry out hidden wiring it is necessary to make grooves (preferably with a wall cutter). For internal wiring, it is important to lay the cable in a corrugated structure so that it is not subject to dynamic changes in the building (if the building sags or moves).

Important! Without corrugation, if the wall moves, the core may break, which will lead to a short circuit and non-functional condition of the socket and switches.

Laying internal wiring requires grooved walls. Electrical cables placed in a corrugated hose are laid in grooves. They are then placed in the mounting box.

It is important to know! Corrugated cables must be removed at least 10–12 cm.

The boxes are fixed with gypsum mortar. Then you need to give the solution time to dry and continue the process of connecting the electrical fittings.

Installation of sockets and switches

Connection diagram for socket and switch

With proper installation and with the correct cables (if the wiring is already there, done by a professional, and you just decided to mount the outlet yourself), if the electrician did everything correctly, then:

1. A white cable is inserted into the socket on which “L” is written, which corresponds to the concept of phase and power.
2. A blue cable is inserted into the socket marked with the letter “N”; it is called zero. And, accordingly, if there is a grounding loop, then a yellow or yellow-green cable “I_ _” is inserted into the grounded socket.

To connect a regular or two-key switch, you need to assemble a box. White (wire) from it to the letter L. If the box is twisted incorrectly, the colors may not match.

Important! In some lines, instead of white, brown is a phase. Then you need to do it according to the instructions included with the purchase.

Colors and meanings: blue is always 0. Yellow is earth. Sometimes there is a black cable instead of yellow.

How to connect a socket, switch and light bulb is indicated in the instructions for these items. By following the electrical diagram, the process goes quickly. Typically the circuit comes with a socket or switch.

Connection diagram for a two-button switch with a socket

Connection diagram for switch socket and light bulb

Installing a double socket

Installing a double socket is a little different. The main difference between double sockets and single sockets is the ability to connect two electrical appliances at once. There are 2 types of doubles: prefabricated and stationary.

Installation of a double stationary type socket is carried out according to the scheme described above. You just need to connect the cables to different plates. If this condition is not met, there is a possibility of a short circuit when current is supplied.

The prefabricated type of double sockets is a little more difficult to install. In addition to the prepared tools, you will need to get a piece of additional wire. Its length should correspond to that connected to the undercut:

• If the device has 3 wires (one ground and two power), it needs 3 additional ones. The latter should be pulled between the trimmers. The one that has the main wire output is connected via a pair of cables to the terminals - from the auxiliary and the main.

In other cutters the connection is standard. Installation of the triple socket and block is identical.

Installing a power outlet

The peculiarity of power sockets is that they are almost always installed for an electric stove. They have their own characteristics and nuances:

• such an outlet is connected to a separate line coming from the panel;
• a necessary condition is the ability of the line to withstand a load of at least 40 amperes;
• a distinctive feature of the wiring is its significant thickness;

Power device - capable of withstanding more powerful loads.

Installing a power outlet is as follows. The socket is attached where the power cable exits. This is almost always near the stove area. Fastening occurs in all holes with dowels. The socket protection must be at least IP20. Insulation and connection are performed using twisting and soldering. For proper connection, you should pay enough attention to the colors. This will allow you to connect ground, neutral and phase without errors.

Video on the topic

Installing a socket in a ready-made socket box seems like a simple task. Indeed, often, drilling and installing the socket itself into the wall takes much more time.

However, here too there are nuances, misconceptions and rules, which some may not know about, while others, on the contrary, argue to the last, insisting that they are right (for example, connecting a double socket with a cable).

Let's consider the main points and stages of this process.

Security and Tools

First of all, before carrying out work, it is necessary to ensure safety. When replacing or installing sockets, always turn off the GENERAL input machine for the entire apartment or house, and not specifically to this outlet.

This must be done in order to break not only the phase, but also the zero. After disconnecting, check the absence of voltage with an indicator at the place of work.

Prepare the necessary tools:

You may also need:

Recessed socket box

The first rule concerns the socket itself. If you are installing not a final, but a pass-through socket, that is, one on which the cable will not end, but go further down or sideways, to other sockets or switches, always use recessed socket boxes.

The standard one comes with a depth of 45mm, but you need to take 60mm. This is necessary for compact placement of the wires, especially the grounding conductor (why this will be discussed below).

Do not try to cram all the conductors, so to speak, back to back. There will be no benefit from such savings, but only harm.

In addition, the installation itself will be of higher quality, more convenient and will not cause insoluble difficulties. For example, when the socket or its frame does not fit snugly against the wall. Because of this, the wires will have to be shortened. Again, disassemble everything, re-install and dismantle.

Here is a photo of a standard recessed socket in a standard socket box.

The entire space that remains inside it for installing wires is about 1 cm. If you use a model with a depth of 60mm, then you will add as much as 1.5cm of installation depth.

Feel what is called the difference.

Stripping length

When stripping the outer sheath of the cable, there is no need to try to remove it to the maximum depth, i.e. all the way to the wall of the socket.

Always try to leave a few millimeters. This way, the core insulation will be protected from chafing or crushing by the sharp edges of the socket box.

It is very convenient to do this on a round NYM cable using a special Jokari puller.

Make a circular cut, and then immediately a longitudinal one. After which, even in cramped conditions, the shell is easily pulled out.

With flat cables of the VVG and brand, such a trick cannot be done.

And if it is a GOST cable, and not a TU cable, then even more so.

As a rule, a knife with a heel cuts the outer insulation right up to the wall of the socket box.

That is why many electricians like the NYM cable brand and not the VVG cable brand. Because of the convenience of cutting and ease of working with it.

Although each brand has both its advantages and disadvantages.

By the way, in rare cases you can also find a VVG cable with a round cross-section.

How much insulation should be removed from the core itself before inserting it into the contact? Much, of course, depends on the brand of the outlet.

Some models even have a template that is very easy to navigate.

But usually, the exposed part of the core should not exceed 8-10mm.

The length of the wires protruding from the socket box is selected based on:

• ease of installation

• socket depth

You must understand that the length that you leave will be useful in the future for convenient dismantling, pulling out and carrying out some kind of revision work. Or even replacing the socket with a different model.

As a rule, leave a length equal to the width of 3-4 fingers.

Connecting sockets with a cable

The main nuance that causes heated debate among electricians is whether it is possible to connect an outlet with a cable? And on this issue, many are divided into 3 camps:

• possible in some cases

• you can always if the design of the socket allows it

Most modern sockets always have two terminals for each wire: phase-neutral-ground. Total 6 contacts.

It is assumed that in a walk-through socket all six ends of the wires (3 incoming + 3 outgoing) can be safely inserted into the terminals, clamped and be sure that everything is done correctly.

However, there is a paragraph of the PUE rules, clause 1.7.144, which states:

That is, phase and neutral working conductors are connected via a loop without problems, but for the grounding conductor, according to adherents of a categorical ban, this is unacceptable.

It is necessary to make a branch for it. Moreover, it is advisable to do it in a screwless manner so that there is no need for further maintenance (tightening). And this means sleeving by crimping, or soldering or welding.

The easiest and most convenient way to do this is by crimping. Add up the final cross-section of the three cores that will be connected by crimping and select the appropriate sleeve.

For example, you have a 3*2.5mm2 power cable. Incoming cable core 2.5mm2 + branch to socket 2.5mm2 + outgoing cable core to adjacent socket 2.5mm2. Total theoretically – 7.5mm2.

Due to the fact that the actual cross-section of the cores does not always correspond to the declared one, and loosening of the contacts is not acceptable here, select a sleeve with a slightly smaller cross-section than the calculated one - GML-6.

Place the vein into the sleeve and press the press with pliers.

Always cut off the excess length of the sleeve so that it does not take up free space in the socket box.

The resulting connection is best protected with heat-shrinkable tubing.

Although, of course, no one forbids applying several layers of high-quality electrical tape.

Especially if you have a powerful one, without smooth temperature control. With such a device, you can inadvertently melt certain parts of the socket box.

If you do it differently, using the factory terminals of the socket, what are the dangers? For example, you have two double sockets connected in series. One is at a height of 90cm, the other is slightly below it, at a level above the baseboard.

Power to the bottom comes from the top. If there is a break or violation of the grounding contact in the very first of them, then the “ground” will automatically disappear on the others.
Which is categorically unacceptable.

However, many electricians are confident that the ban on such daisy chaining applies only to sockets located in different blocks, at a distance from each other. And this rule in no way applies to double sockets located in one block, united by a single frame.

That is, in fact, such a block is a kind of connector that has a single housing. This means that it can be considered as a single electrical installation product.

Most doubles, tees and even extensions are made in this way.

You will not be able to disassemble a single product without disconnecting the plugs from adjacent connectors. And since you have disconnected these plugs, then breaking the grounding conductor at the very first point will not affect anything.

But if the socket blocks are located far from each other and do not have a common body, then it is absolutely impossible to connect them with a cable.

Well, third interpreters of paragraph of the rules of the PUE 1.7.144 reasonably notice that in the PUE itself, nothing is said about the prohibition of “loops”. There is not even such a concept for sockets.

It says that the “Pe” conductor must be electrically continuous (the essence is in this word - electrically). And that the current-carrying elements of the device cannot be connected in series to the grounding conductor circuit.

There is neither one nor the other in the train. In most of these sockets, under one terminal, both conductors are immediately clamped. Moreover, in an acceptable way (screw or spring).

Now, if the socket had a ground input on one side and an output on the other (from under another independent contact), then yes - it’s impossible! Moreover, the PUE does not consider the socket contacts as open conductive parts, so clause 1.7.144 has nothing to do with it.

Even if you are forced to dismantle one of the looped sockets in this way, then in addition to the protective wire, you will also break the phase and neutral conductors.

Which of these opinions is true and how should you mount it?

If you are doing what is called for yourself and “for centuries”, so as not to look into the socket box for decades, then install a sleeve and make a branch, not a cable.

The same applies to objects for delivery to regulatory authorities. In order not to redo all the wiring and not have to prove your own reading of the PUE to some energy inspector, forget about loopback. Don't give unnecessary reasons for comments.

Well, if you are firmly convinced that the cable is not a violation at all, and it is not for nothing that manufacturers of sockets initially included the possibility of such a connection in their products, then at home you are free to act as supporters of the second and third methods.

In the end, this is your own home, and no one has the right to forbid you to do this and not otherwise.

Caliper location

The next question is how to correctly position the socket support inside the socket box - with the terminals down or up.

Some are guided by the inscriptions on the case. They should be legible and not upside down.

On the one hand, this is quite logical. But in reality, there is not much difference. This is not reflected in any way in the regulatory documents.

Therefore, mount it in the way that is convenient for you. For example, focus on the incoming cable.

Phase left or right

Next, all that remains is to connect the wires to the outlet itself and install it inside. Here you may encounter the following point, which also causes disputes and contradictions among electricians.

Where exactly in the outlet should I connect the wires? If everything is clear with the ground, there is a place for it in the middle, then where should we start the zero and phase?

On the left contact or on the right? Each electrician does this at his own discretion. Because, again, in the rules, there is no clear indication of where the phase should be connected in the socket.

For example, it would be incorrect to connect the phase to the right terminal for sockets in the living room, and to the left terminal in the bedroom. If you have already connected one according to some scheme, connect all the others in the same way.

As for the colors of the connected cores, it is already necessary to comply with the current standard.

Use the mounting screws on the sides to perform preliminary fastening. Next, use a compact electrician’s level to check that the installation is horizontal.

If everything is fine, tighten the screws completely. After this, be sure to tighten the two more internal mounting screws.

When they are tightened, the claws extend, with which the socket seems to cling to the inner walls of the socket box.

In high-quality and expensive copies, manufacturers make such paws double on each side.

All that remains is to install the front panel and trim frame.

Some brands, such as Legrand, have interchangeable frames.

That is, the fastening mechanism itself remains in the socket box, but the insert element can be changed. For example, instead of a regular model with curtains, install a waterproof one (for the bathroom), or vice versa.

Another point concerns the frames. If you are installing a socket block, keep in mind that not all brands have a square front panel. Most often it is rectangular.

This means that you will not be able to insert it into a decorative frame as you please.

For example, to rotate 90 degrees, you will have to pick out the fastening element with latches from the frame and also turn it at a right angle.

Only after this, everything is fixed without problems.

Thus, the same frame can be placed both in a vertical block of sockets and in a horizontal one.

A block of sockets is installed in cases where you need to connect a whole group of electrical devices. One block can have from 2 to 4 electrical points.

Design and installation locations of socket blocks

The design of the unit differs from a standard socket only in the number of seats. The block includes a plastic case and internal elements, which include terminals with terminals and contacts. Springs for the forks are attached to the latter.

Most modern units are equipped with grounding contacts. These contacts ensure the safety of the system and allow you to reduce the voltage of consumers connected to the unit.

There are 2 types of blocks:

1. Devices for organizing hidden electrical wiring. They are mounted deep into the wall using a module in the form of glasses for socket boxes.
2. Devices for creating open wiring. Such blocks are installed on the wall. For this, a plate socket box is used.

In addition to the above types of socket blocks, retractable devices are also produced, which are designed for installation in furniture (the socket block can be mounted in a rack, table, cabinet, etc.) and are used as needed. Fundamentally, these devices do not differ from external and internal units.

Socket blocks are often installed in kitchen areas. Such devices are usually located at a height of 10–15 centimeters from the furniture level and at a height of 30–60 centimeters from the floor. Such socket blocks are convenient when it comes to using relatively low-power consumers (refrigerator, small household appliances, hood). When organizing power supply in living rooms, sockets are installed near large consumers: behind the TV, near the desktop.

Groups of three-point sockets are often found in bathrooms. However, such units must be equipped with moisture-resistant housings. The distance from the outlet to the water source should not be less than 60 centimeters.

Connection methods

If you connect an outlet block of one group, use the daisy chain method. In this case, we are talking about connecting all group members to a common power supply line. The daisy chain is designed for loads no higher than 16A.

A popular connection method is combined, when a parallel circuit is used. This method is used especially often in European countries. In post-Soviet countries, a combined connection is most often used to supply electricity through separate lines to large energy consumers.

In a parallel connection, a pair of cables are laid from the distribution box:

1. The first cable runs as a ribbon cable, supplying power to four of the five outlets in the five-seater unit.
2. The second cable is directed to the fifth point of the group of sockets. This point is used to power powerful equipment.

The advantage of a combined connection is the distribution of risks: each point is independent of the work of other nearby members of the chain. The combined scheme has only one drawback, which is the cost of purchasing the cable and the increased labor costs of electrical installation work.

Both the loop and combined methods can be used to create an open or closed system. The loop method involves making a channel in the wall through which lines and sockets for connectors will pass. The combined method involves laying a PE conductor along the wall.

The use of plastic cable ducts increases the safety of the system. In addition, open wiring in the cable channel looks more aesthetically pleasing. Most of the channels have partitions into which the line is laid. Monitoring the condition of the conductor can be carried out without problems, since the channel is equipped with removable covers.

Installation instructions

The specific method of installation work depends on the material of the structures. The walls can be made of concrete, brick, wood or plasterboard sheets. In some cases, you will need to chip the walls, in others, you can opt for open electrical wiring.

Preparation

Preparatory work begins with turning off the electricity in the area where electrical installation work will be carried out. When it comes to old houses that do not have automation, to turn off the electricity it is enough to unscrew the plugs.

To complete the work you will need the following materials and devices:

• socket block;
• decorative strip;
• wires for jumpers and organization of electrical wiring;
• socket boxes for connecting into blocks;
• gypsum or alabaster mortar.

When choosing a block, they take into account the quality of the device and the possibility of dedicated connection of PE conductors.

To install the socket block you need the following tools:

• perforator with a drill bit (70 millimeters);
• building level;
• set of tools for electrical installation;
• tape measure, ruler, marker;
• solution container;
• putty knife.

The drill bit is selected taking into account the material to be worked with. For different types of materials, nozzles with different characteristics and prices are produced.

Wall marking

The correctness of the marking determines the comfort of all further work. Before you begin, it is recommended to check for any communications inside the wall. When it comes to drywall, it is extremely important not to damage the profile holding this material.

A ruler, a building level and a marker are the tools used to mark the surface. It is necessary to consider how many points there will be in the group. Intersecting lines mark the centers of the holes to be made.

Small indentations are made in the center of the future holes. You should pay attention to the accuracy of drilling: the crown should not move to the side during the drilling process.

Advice! When organizing a block, it is not easy to achieve a horizontal position of the holes. It is recommended to use a crown with a slightly larger diameter - 80 millimeters.

It is advisable to prepare a drawing in advance. This will help you better navigate when performing work, in particular, it will help you avoid choosing the wrong places to create holes.

Grooving and creating seats

Drilling seats along crossed lines should be started at low speeds. It is necessary to ensure the correct position of the drill.

In order for the work to be done accurately, the hole is first marked with a drill with a small diameter, then the main crown is used, with which the recess is made in full.

Excess wall material inevitably remains in the holes. They need to be removed, for which a perforated chisel is well suited. Holes and channels are cleaned of material fragments and dust using a paint brush or napkins. Then connecting channels are made between the holes for the protrusions of the socket boxes.

For hidden wiring, grooves are made. If a separate line is needed for one of the points of the socket block, a special channel is created for it.

Note! The PE conductor will be better protected if the cable is placed in a corrugated sleeve.

If necessary, grooves can be made using the old method, using a hammer and chisel. However, this option is too labor-intensive and will take not only effort, but also time. It is especially difficult to lay channels in this way in brickwork. Brick should only be cut using a mechanized method.

Features of installing socket blocks in drywall

Drywall is much easier to work with. Seats in this material are made using a special attachment for plasterboard sheets. Cutting round grooves in drywall is not very difficult.

You just need to not be too zealous - do not put pressure on the instrument, so as not to disturb the fragile foundation. Mounting boxes for drywall are equipped with special claws located on the back side of the material and pulling the glass into the niche.

The distance between the wall and the plasterboard sheet should be sufficient for the socket box to fit into the recess. If the depth is too shallow, the wall needs to be deepened.

Features of fixing socket boxes

In brickwork, socket boxes are fixed using alabaster or gypsum mortar. The ratio of water to the mixture is 1 to 4.

Note! Creamy solutions set quickly - within a few minutes.

The powder is diluted in small portions and immediately placed in a niche. The same solution is used to treat adjacent side edges and the bottom of glasses. When this work is completed, the block is directed into the hole.

The position of the recessed glasses is checked with a building level. It is important to avoid protrusions beyond the plane of the wall. If the socket boxes are installed correctly, the edges are coated with a solution to level the surface as much as possible. The remaining composition is coated with the wire going to the outlet.

The glasses have special clamping tabs that are used to pull the glass into the hole.

Socket boxes recessed into the wall should not extend beyond the plane. If the niche is not deep enough, it needs to be deepened. However, if the surface is to be tiled or plastered, the socket box should protrude slightly above the surface - usually a protrusion of 5 - 7 millimeters is left.

Electrical connection features

When the solution has completely hardened, proceed to connecting the internal block of sockets. If the socket is connected using a daisy chain type, the wires go from the junction box to the first socket box.

The ends of the cable are cleared of braiding using a sharp knife. This work must be done very carefully. A side cutter will be a good help for solving the problem. When stripping, it is advisable to leave a little cable in reserve so that you can create another connection if the need arises. To prevent the cable from getting in the way, it can be rolled into a spiral and placed inside the socket box.

To create bows, prepare fragments of multi-colored wires. In this case, the cross-section of the connectors must be the same as the cross-section of the power supply line conductors. The conductors should not be excessively long, as in this case they will interfere with the normal installation of the socket in the installation box. The cut wires are stripped of the insulating layer by about 1 centimeter.

Wires are threaded through the socket box adapters. Before this, it is necessary to ensure normal patency of the adapters, for which they clean off any remaining gypsum or alabaster mortar. Installing the socket block will be easier if the ends of the conductors are bent towards the terminals.

Remove the protective cover from the block. After this, the clamping screws are loosened by 5 - 7 millimeters. The cleaned end of the power cable phase is directed to the first socket. The location of the terminals should be taken into account. Next, the PE conductor and the neutrals of the power cable lead to the second socket. Exactly the same as described above, connect all other sockets. The sockets should not be tightened too tightly.

Polishing sockets implies strict adherence to the principle of contact polarity. The phase wire comes from the terminal with the phase, and the neutral wire comes from the zero terminal.

The protective conductor is connected in strict accordance with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Rules, which indicate the need to create exclusively permanent connections of this type. This condition cannot be neglected, since in this case the risk of accidents will increase by an order of magnitude.

For example, if the grounding disappears at the main supply point of a block of power sockets during installation, subsequent participants in the chain will lose the protective zero. In the future, if mains voltage comes into contact with the housing (due to equipment malfunction), the voltage will be transmitted to all other housings of electrical household appliances connected to the network.

Socket boxes with wires attached to terminals are installed in holes in the walls. The structure is fixed with side clamps. Next, the reliability of installation of all devices is tested. Use a building level and, if necessary, make adjustments. Apply electrical tape to exposed areas of electrical wiring or treat them with a heat-shrinkable sponge.

When this work is completed, all that remains is to finally tighten the screws, secure the housing in the socket box and install the decorative cover.

Most often, an outlet block of 2, 3, 4 “electrical points” is installed in the kitchen and in the living room behind the TV. A horizontal or vertical panel of Euro sockets is very convenient, because... allows you to connect an interacting group of household appliances in one place, for example: a TV, audio system and DVD player. Next, we will tell you how to properly install and connect the socket block in the house with your own hands!

What could be the nuance?

Today, the walls in a house can be concrete, wood, brick or plasterboard. Because of this, the installation technology may have its own peculiarities - either you will be hammering concrete in a panel house, or simply install an overhead socket block (external) on the surface for open wiring. Next, we will briefly talk about each of the installation options, but you can still find out more in detail in the corresponding article.

Another nuance is that now we are only considering the technology for installing and connecting the socket block. Today there is also a combined option: power socket + switch, but we will talk about installing such a combination separately.

Installation instructions

To make it clear to you how to properly install and connect a socket block with your own hands, we will then provide step-by-step instructions from A to Z with photo examples and visual video lessons.

Step 1 – Preparatory work

First you need to decide where you want to place the outlet group in the room. If this is a kitchen, then it is better to place the socket block above the countertop so that when connecting a multicooker, microwave oven and other kitchen appliances, the cord length is enough. In a living room or hall, it is best to install the product behind the TV so that the large screen can hide all the cords. If you decide to install a block of two or three sockets in the bathroom, keep in mind an important rule - the distance from the water must be at least 0.6 meters and the housings of the electrical points must be waterproof. You can get more advice on this point in the article -.

By the way, for the kitchen there is an original version of the socket block - a pull-out one. In this case, the mortise body is hidden in the tabletop and opens with a slight pressure. It is very convenient and also safe, so if you wish, we recommend installing exactly this model of product.

Also at this stage you should prepare tools for socket boxes. If the wall is concrete or brick, use a hammer drill with a special crown. Drywall also has its own slotting attachment. In addition, prepare a building level, marker and tape measure.

Step 2 – Marking the Walls

In fact, a very important stage, on which the correctness of further installation and connection will depend. You need to mark the surfaces for installing socket boxes based on how many electrical sockets there will be in the block. The first and very important rule is that the distance between the centers of the socket boxes must be strictly 72 mm. If you make a mistake, when installing the decorative cover it may not fall into place. In addition, make sure that all round grooves are placed in the same horizontal or vertical plane. To do this, we recommend using a building level.

When the walls are marked, you can proceed to gating.

Step 3 – Creating the Strobe

At this stage, you must make seats for the built-in socket boxes. There is nothing complicated here, the main thing is that you have a hammer drill with a suitable attachment at hand. If you decide to install a block of sockets in a concrete or brick wall, first drill the circles with a crown, and then knock out the entire core with a chisel and hammer. The instructions for installing a socket block in concrete are discussed in great detail in the video example below.

How to chisel a brick wall for installing a rosette panel

If the walls in your apartment are covered with gypsum plasterboard sheets, it’s even easier - using a hammer drill and a plasterboard crown, cut out round grooves according to the markings.

Installation of glasses in a plasterboard partition

Step 4 – Attaching the socket boxes

The next thing you need to do is install the socket box. Today there are special plastic glasses that can be connected to each other. Connecting socket boxes is not difficult even for a novice electrician.

In brick and concrete walls, you need to smear the glasses with gypsum mortar yourself. In plasterboard everything is simpler - the socket boxes are pressed against the sheet with special paws on the sides. Again, you can see the essence of installing socket boxes in the article to which we referred at the beginning.

Step 5 – Electrical Connections

When the solution hardens (this applies to walls made of concrete and brick), you can proceed to connecting the internal block of sockets to the 220V network with your own hands. It is possible to connect several European sockets using a cable from one input cable, unless you are connecting very powerful household appliances, for example, an electric stove.

So, first, turn off the electricity at the apartment panel, and then insert the input wires from the distribution box into the first socket box: phase, neutral and ground. After this, make jumpers to connect the remaining sockets in the block. Connecting a block of 3 or 4 sockets must be done according to this diagram: