For a long time, a tongue-and-groove connection has been used in carpentry and carpentry. Ancient architects, using this method, managed to create unique wooden buildings without a single nail or screw. And although a wide variety of hardware is now quite accessible, the articulation of individual parts of various structures by this method not only has not lost its relevance, but is also widely used in modern products and materials.
The principle of connection and its varieties
In terms of design, all tongue-and-groove joints are made according to the same principle: a protrusion is made on one part, and a recess is made on the second. They are exactly the same in configuration and size. When these two parts are tightly joined, a strong technological unit is obtained. When building houses, such a connection prevents the shift of one part of the structure relative to another; in the manufacture of furniture, it significantly increases the area on which glue is applied, thereby providing additional strength to the product.
Based on the geometric shape of the protrusion and recess, such joints are divided into two main types:
- rectangular cross-section (sometimes with rounded edges of tenons and grooves);
- in the form of a trapezoid (also called a “dovetail”).
Based on the number of spikes and grooves that need to be made for one joint of parts, these connections are divided into:
- single-spike;
- multi-spike.
Important! Regardless of the number and geometric shape of the protrusions and recesses, they must be made only parallel to the grain of the wood.
Application area
The tongue-and-groove connection has found application in many areas of our daily life. For example, when arranging the floors of premises according to this principle, common coatings such as laminate, ordinary floorboards, chipboard, fiberboard or MDF boards are joined together.
Wood, as one of the most environmentally friendly materials, is used to make a wide variety of furniture (from a simple kitchen stool to a designer set for a living room or dining room), roller blinds, blinds and much more. And all these products are mainly made using a tongue-and-groove connection.
When constructing wooden frame buildings, houses made of timber, when arranging the beam-and-truss structure of the ceiling and roof, one also cannot do without arranging protrusions and recesses.
Beam connection
The tenon and groove in the beam connection is used both for arranging corner structures made of wood, and for longitudinal alignment of individual pieces. Depending on the cross-sectional dimensions and expected loads, the geometry and number of protrusions and lugs are selected. For example, in the construction of wooden houses, a single-tenon connection is mainly used. And to increase the length of small-section bars using glue, a multi-tenon method is used.
Connecting boards
Almost all owners of country real estate have long fallen in love with such a material as lining, as a result of which they obtain an absolutely flat vertical surface. The tongue and groove connection of boards is used for arranging floors, interior decoration of a house, as well as for external cladding of a building (with an antiseptic coating, of course).
The protrusions are tightly fixed in the recesses of adjacent boards, which prevents them from moving relative to each other. When arranging floors, the tight connection of tongue and groove boards with each other prevents them from moving in the vertical plane (the floor is level) and significantly increases the heat-saving properties of the coating (there are simply no gaps between the boards).
Using a manual electric router
Arrangement of tenon joints minimizes labor costs and significantly reduces the time for carpentry work. Of course, this useful tool will not help when building a house, for example, from timber with a cross-section of 150 x 150 mm, since there are no cutters of this size for a hand router, and the power of this unit will not be enough to install them. But if you want to build furniture, small frames or door frames yourself, then such a tool is simply necessary. Depending on the size of the parts to be joined and the geometric configuration of the connection, you purchase the necessary cutter, or maybe two (one for cutting the groove, the other for making a tenon). The milling tool's adjustment devices, as well as guide bearings (usually included with these cutters), will help create projections and recesses that match exactly in size and shape.
DIY tools and accessories
If you need to make some kind of piece of wood, then it is not economically profitable to purchase an expensive electric router. Most likely, everyone on the farm has the necessary set of tools, and if they have to buy more, it will be very few. In addition, additionally purchased devices may be useful in the future for minor repair work (for example, repairing wooden furniture). In order to make a tenon-groove joint with your own hands using only ordinary hand tools, you will need:
- wood hacksaw (fine teeth);
- carpenter's thicknesser (a special device for applying markings) or a regular construction square;
- Ruler and pencil;
- wood chisel.
Making your own corner joint
As an example, let's look at how to make a tongue-and-groove connection between two bars of the same cross-section at right angles using available tools. Let's say you need to connect 60 x 60 mm (they may well be suitable for making window frames for a summer house).
The thickness of the protrusion for a single-tenon connection (in accordance with the recommendations of handbooks on carpentry) should be ⅓÷⅜ of the thickness of the block (in your case it will be 20 mm). The length of the tenon will be equal to the thickness of the block (60 mm). The dimensions of the recess must correspond to the dimensions of the tenon, so that it fits into the eye with force.
Attention! Tenons must be installed on the vertical parts of the wooden structure, and grooves on the horizontal ones.
The algorithm for performing the work is quite simple:
- First, we mark the future protrusions and eyes. If you do not pay due attention to this process, the manufactured tenons and grooves may not match each other in size or relative position. There is also a danger that they will not fit into each other tightly. All this will significantly reduce the strength and reliability of the connection.
- Using a thicknesser (or square) at a distance of 60 mm from the end, draw a line on all four sides of both bars.
- Then, on two opposite sides and at the end, we draw two parallel lines at a distance of 20 mm from each other.
- Using a hacksaw, we make cuts along the marking lines to the transverse line, that is, to a depth of 60 mm.
On a note! To ensure that the thickness of the cut (approximately equal to the setting of the teeth of the cutting blade of the hacksaw) does not affect the accuracy of making the joint, we install the saw blade on the outside (when making a tenon) or on the inside (when making a groove).
- At the end of the block with a protrusion, we saw off the outer pieces of wood.
- Using a chisel, carefully hollow out the inside of the recess.
- We insert the tenon into the groove and check the made connection. If necessary, remove protruding defects with a chisel.
Finally
If you need to arrange a tenon and groove yourself, it is best to practice on scraps of bars.
If the manufactured protrusions and recesses coincide exactly, and the articulation of the individual parts is strong, then you can begin work on the prepared building material. Well, if the tenon fits into the groove too freely, or vice versa, then you need to once again check the correctness of the markings, conduct another training session, and only after that proceed with the implementation of the planned project.
To fully work with a hand router, in addition to the tool itself, the material and the corresponding set of cutters, you must have one more component - fixtures. In order for the cutter to be able to shape the workpiece in accordance with the master's plan - cutting the material exactly where it is required - it must be in a strictly defined position relative to the workpiece at each moment of time. Numerous accessories for a hand router are used to ensure this. Some of them - the most necessary ones - are included in the scope of delivery of the instrument. Other devices for milling can be purchased or made by yourself. Moreover, homemade devices are so simple that to make them you can do without drawings, using only their drawings.
Rip fence
The most used device that comes with almost every router is a parallel stop, which ensures the straight movement of the cutter relative to the base surface. The latter can be the straight edge of a part, table or guide rail. The parallel stop can be used both for milling various grooves located on the face of the workpiece, and for processing edges.Parallel stop for a manual router: 1 - stop, 2 - rod, 3 - base of the router, 4 - rod locking screw, 5 - fine adjustment screw, 6 - movable carriage, 7 - movable carriage locking screw, 8 - pads, 9 - screw stop locking.
To install the device in the working position, it is necessary to slide the rods 2 into the holes of the frame 3, ensuring the required distance between the supporting surface of the stop and the axis of the cutter, and fix them with the locking screw 4. To accurately position the cutter, you need to release the locking screw 9 and rotate the fine adjustment screw 5 set the cutter to the desired position. For some stop models, the dimensions of the supporting surface can be changed by moving or spreading the support pads 8.
If you add one simple part to the rip fence, then you can use it to mill not only straight, but also curved grooves, for example, to process a round workpiece. Moreover, the inner surface of the block located between the stop and the workpiece does not necessarily have to have a rounded shape that follows the edge of the workpiece. It can also be given a simpler shape (Figure “a”). In this case, the trajectory of the cutter will not change.
Of course, a regular rip fence, thanks to the notch in the center, will allow you to orient the router along a rounded edge, but the position of the router may not be stable enough.
The function of the guide bar is similar to that of a rip fence. Like the latter, it ensures strictly linear movement of the router. The main difference between them is that the tire can be installed at any angle to the edge of the part or table, thereby ensuring any direction of movement of the router in the horizontal plane. In addition, the tire may have elements that simplify certain operations, for example, milling holes located at the same distance from each other (with a certain pitch), etc.
The guide rail is attached to the table or workpiece using clamps or special clamps. The tire can be equipped with an adapter (shoe), which is connected to the base of the router by two rods. Sliding along the profile of the tire, the adapter sets the linear movement of the cutter.
Sometimes (if the distance of the tire from the router is too close), the supporting surfaces of the tire and the router may appear in different planes in height. To level them, some routers are equipped with retractable support legs, which change the position of the router in height.
Such a device is easy to make with your own hands. The simplest option is a long block secured to the workpiece with clamps. The design can be supplemented with side supports.
By placing a block on two or more aligned workpieces at once, grooves can be made in them in one pass.
When using a block as a stop, it is inconvenient to place the block at a certain distance from the line of the future groove. The following two devices do not have this inconvenience. The first is made from boards and plywood fastened together. In this case, the distance from the edge of the stop (board) to the edge of the base (plywood) is equal to the distance from the cutter to the edge of the router base. But this condition is met only for a cutter of the same diameter. Thanks to this, the device quickly aligns along the edge of the future groove.
The following device can be used with cutters of different diameters, plus when milling, the router rests on its entire sole, and not half, as in the previous device.
The stop is aligned along the edge of the hinged board and the center line of the groove. After fixing the stop, the folding board folds back, making room for the router. The width of the folding board, together with the gap between it and the stop (if there is one), should be equal to the distance from the center of the cutter to the edge of the router base. If you focus on the edge of the cutter and the edge of the future groove, then the device will only work with one diameter of the cutter.
When milling grooves across the grain, at the exit from the workpiece, when milling an open groove, cases of wood scuffing are not uncommon. The following devices will help to minimize scuffing: I press the fibers where the cutter exits, preventing them from splitting off from the workpiece.
Two boards, strictly perpendicular, are connected with screws. Different cutters are used on different sides of the stop so that the width of the groove in the fixture matches the width of the groove of the part being milled.
Another attachment for routing open slots can be pressed harder against the workpiece, which further minimizes scuffing, but it only fits one diameter cutter. It consists of two L-shaped parts connected to the workpiece with clamps.
Copy rings and templates
The copying ring is a round plate with a protruding shoulder that slides along the template and provides the necessary trajectory of the cutter. The copying ring is attached to the base of the router in various ways: they screw it into a threaded hole (such rings are in the photo below), insert the antennae of the ring into special holes on the base, or screw it with screws.
The diameter of the copy ring should be as close to the diameter of the cutter as possible, but the ring should not touch its cutting parts. If the diameter of the ring is larger than the diameter of the cutter, then the template must be smaller than the finished parts to compensate for the difference between the diameter of the cutter and the diameter of the copy ring.
The template is secured to the workpiece with double-sided tape, then both parts are pressed with clamps to the workbench. Once you have finished routing, check that the ring is pressed against the edge of the template throughout the entire operation.
You can make a template for processing not the entire edge, but only for rounding the corners. In this case, using the template shown below, you can make roundings of four different radii.
In the figure above, a cutter with a bearing is used, but the template can also be used with a ring, only either the ring must exactly match the diameter of the cutter, or the stops must make it possible to move the template away from the edge by the difference in the radius of the cutter and the ring. This also applies to the simpler version shown below.
Templates are used not only for milling edges, but also grooves on the face.
The template can be adjustable.
Template routing is a great method for cutting out hinge grooves.
Tools for milling round and elliptical grooves
Compasses are designed to move the router around a circle. The simplest device of this type is a compass, consisting of one rod, one end of which is connected to the base of the router, and the second has a screw with a pin at the end, which is inserted into a hole that serves as the center of the circle along which the cutter moves. The radius of the circle is set by shifting the rod relative to the base of the router.
It is better, of course, for the compass to be made of two rods.
In general, compasses are a very common device. There are a large number of branded and homemade devices for circumferential milling, varying in size and ease of use. As a rule, compasses have a mechanism that ensures a change in the radius of the circle. It is usually made in the form of a screw with a pin at the end, moving along the groove of the device. The pin is inserted into the central hole of the part.
When it is necessary to mill a circle of small diameter, the pin must be located under the router base, and for such cases, other devices are used that are attached to the bottom of the router base.
Ensuring the movement of the cutter in a circle using a compass is quite simple. However, one often has to deal with the need to make elliptical contours - when inserting oval-shaped mirrors or glass, installing arched windows or doors, etc. The PE60 WEGOMA device (Germany) is designed for milling ellipses and circles.
It is a base in the form of a plate, attached to the surface using vacuum suction cups 1 or with screws if the nature of the surface does not allow it to be fixed using suction cups. Two shoes 2, moving along intersecting guides, ensure the movement of the milling cutter along an elliptical path. When milling a circle, only one shoe is used. The device kit includes two mounting rods and bracket 3, with the help of which the router is connected to the slab. The grooves on the bracket allow you to install the router so that its supporting surface and the base of the slab are in the same plane.
As can be seen from the photographs above, a router was used instead of a jigsaw or band saw, and due to the high speed of the cutter, the quality of the processed surface was much higher. Also, if you don’t have a hand-held circular saw, a router can replace it.
Devices for milling grooves on narrow surfaces
Grooves for locks and door hinges, in the absence of a router, are made using a chisel and an electric drill. This operation - especially when making a groove for an internal lock - takes a lot of time. Having a milling cutter and a special device, it can be completed several times faster. It is convenient to have a device that provides milling of slots in a wide range of sizes.To make grooves in the end, you can make a simple device in the form of a flat base attached to the base of the router. Its shape can be not only round (according to the shape of the base of the router), but also rectangular. On both sides you need to secure guide pins that will ensure the straight movement of the router. The main condition for their installation is that their axes are in line with the center of the cutter. If this condition is ensured, the groove will be located exactly in the center of the workpiece, regardless of its thickness. If you need to move the groove to one side or another from the center, you need to put a bushing with a certain wall thickness on one of the pins, as a result of which the groove will move to the side on which the pin with the bushing is located. When using a router with such a device, it must be guided in such a way that the pins are pressed on both sides to the side surfaces of the part.
If you attach a second rip fence to the router, you will also get a device for milling grooves in the edge.
But you can do without special devices. To ensure stability of the router on a narrow surface, boards are secured on both sides of the part, the surface of which should form a single plane with the surface being processed. When milling, the router is positioned using a rip fence.
You can make an improved version that increases the support area for the router.
Device for processing balusters, pillars and other bodies of rotation
The variety of work that is performed with a manual milling cutter sometimes dictates the need to independently manufacture devices that facilitate the performance of certain operations. Branded devices are not able to cover the entire range of work, and they are quite expensive. Therefore, home-made devices for a router are very common among users who are interested in working with wood, and sometimes hand-made devices are either superior to branded analogues or have no branded analogues at all.Sometimes there is a need to mill various grooves in rotating bodies. In this case, the device shown below may be useful.
The device is used for milling longitudinal grooves (flutes) on balusters, posts, etc. It consists of a body 2, a movable carriage with an installed milling cutter 1, a disk for setting the angle of rotation 3. The device operates as follows. The baluster is placed in the body and secured there with screws 4. Rotation to the desired angle and fixation of the workpiece in a strictly defined position is ensured by disk 3 and locking screw 5. After fixing the part, the carriage with the router is set in motion (along the guide bars of the body), and the milling a groove along the length of the workpiece. Then the product is unlocked, rotated to the required angle, locked, and the next groove is made.
A similar device can be used instead of a lathe. The workpiece should be rotated slowly by an assistant or a simple drive, for example, from a drill or screwdriver, and excess material should be removed by a milling cutter moving along the guides.
Tools for milling tenons
Tenoning jigs are used to mill the profile of tenon joints. The manufacture of the latter requires great precision, which is almost impossible to achieve manually. Tenoning jigs allow you to quickly and easily profile even complex joints such as dovetails.
The figure below shows an industrial sample of a tenon-cutting device for making three types of joints - a dovetail (blind and through version) and a through joint with a straight tenon. The two mating parts are installed in the fixture with a certain shift relative to each other, controlled by pins 1 and 2, then they are processed. The exact trajectory of the cutter is determined by the shape of the groove in the template and the copying ring of the router, which slides along the edge of the template, repeating its shape.
When using the content of this site, you need to put active links to this site, visible to users and search robots.
Once you've mastered carpentry skills, it's great to show off your homemade furniture to family and friends. What could be more pleasant than touching a razor-sharp blade, inhaling the smell of wood, feeling its texture, and then making a clean, fresh cut!
This article covers basic carpentry techniques. How to use carpentry tools to achieve different shapes, joints and textures in wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with scrap wood. Put your workshop in order and maintain it. Some craftsmen sharpen hand tools, clean out their workshop, and clean all their tools and machines before starting a new project.
Wood preparation and marking
Once you've decided what you'll be doing, separate your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each piece according to its future location in the product, marking the top, bottom, front surfaces and best edges. Using a pencil and tape measure, mark the sections of the required length, and use a square to mark the cut lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.
If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Use a small pencil to mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them at the same time and remember that one part should be a mirror image of the second. Use a knife to mark connections.
Curved cuts
Can be done with an electric hacksaw, jigsaw or band saw. The hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood, when the cutting line goes away from the edges.
Hacksaws are equipped with rotating bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, different saw blades should be used. For curved cuts of small radius and with wood thickness less than 50 mm, use a jigsaw or jigsaw.
Install the new file and tighten it until it rings when you click it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start cutting from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and clamp and tighten again.
Use a drill press and Forstner bits to drill large holes accurately and accurately. Mark the center of the hole, attach the corresponding drill bit and set the depth stop. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench (this will take some time, but it will be completely worth it). If the hole is deep, lift the drill bit several times as you work to remove waste and keep overheating to a minimum. If you have to drill a lot of holes in identical parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the work table of the machine.
To drill holes for screws and installation holes for nails, you should use a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to screw in a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.
Planing by hand
Planing is a lot of fun when the blade is sharp and you have enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Don't forget to secure the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.
A face plane is good for finishing sharp edges and for cleaning up ends. Position the blade so that it cuts the finest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and avoid chipping.
Selecting grooves manually
Mark the groove using a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the point of a knife, transfer the workpiece to the workbench of the drill press and use a suitable size drill bit to drill out the main part of the unnecessary wood.
Remove the shavings, clamp the workpiece in a vice and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.
The groove can be selected using a cutter, and the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The router can be held in your hands and moved along the workpiece; when selecting an open groove, attach it to the work table and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using scrap wood. It is best to select a groove in stages and make several passes. After each pass, remove sawdust to avoid overheating the cutter.
Carving a tenon by hand
Mark the shoulder lines (the length of the tenon) with a square and a knife, then use a thicknesser to mark the height and width of the tenon. Remove any unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First, make cuts along the grain to the shoulder line on all four sides of the tenon. Then trim the tenon along the shoulder line across the grain. Clean the tenon with a chisel.
If you have a lot of tenons to cut (or if you just like working with machines), a table router is the ideal tool. If the large size of the workpiece does not allow it to be placed on the milling table, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the length of the tenon and the router to the desired height, then, holding the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove the excess wood in several passes. When the end of the tenon rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure on the other side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, trim the tenon with a chisel.
To select a groove 6 mm wide and 4 mm deep at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the board, do this. Attach the router to your workbench and install a 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10mm. Adjust the height of the cutter so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to create a 2mm deep groove. Turn off the router, raise the cutter another 2 mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove 4 mm deep.
To select a rebate with a width of 10 mm and a depth of 4 mm, proceed as follows. You will need a straight cutter that is smaller than the width of the rebate (for example, 5mm in diameter). Set the stop at a distance of 5 mm from the rear edge of the cutter, and the cutter at a height of 2 mm. Place the board against the stop and select a 5 mm wide fold. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stopper, to obtain a 10mm wide fold. Switch off the router, set the bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the fold.
Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a cutter that matches the width of the groove or a smaller size and set the depth stop. Using clamps, press a wooden strip parallel to the groove onto the workpiece, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router reaches full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the groove, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you get the required width and depth of the groove.
Milling shaped edges
Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.
Move the stop so that it is not in the way. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece begins to press against the support roller - at this point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, it means either the cutter is dull or you were pulling the workpiece too slowly.
Milling according to template
Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, cut out the approximate shapes with a saw, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut a template from plywood with an allowance for the edges and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.
As a template, you can take an already made part and use a straight-cut cylindrical cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).
This saw makes it easy to make cuts at any angle. Place the cutting blade on the frame at the required angle (90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and fix it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press it against the fence, and then make the cut using smooth back and forth movements.
Inspect the workpiece and decide where exactly you need to drive the nail. If this area is near the edge and there is a danger of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to first drill an installation hole using a drill bit whose diameter is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable sized hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, use pliers to hold them.
Driving screws
You have a choice of mild steel, stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with straight or Phillips slots and countersunk or pan heads. Semicircular heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. The screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate attachment, or a screwdriver.
When using a drill, install the locking mechanism so that the screw is screwed in to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill it with a drill of a smaller diameter.
To be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cutter for the plug. Don't use steel screws on oak - they react with the wood and moisture and cause stains. Instead, choose plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws.
If you want to make round parts (chair legs, bowls, plates), you cannot do without a lathe. Buy the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget can afford - with an adjustable chuck and faceplate set. Spindle-shaped and cylindrical parts are turned by securing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowls or plates - on the outside of the spindle.
The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off cutter, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.
To cut a door handle or latch, you won't need anything more than a good, sharp knife (not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood, pressing on the back of the blade with your thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. To practice, first experiment with soft linden wood, for example.
Installing hinges
The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass overlay hinges (attached with countersunk screws that are screwed flush to the surface) and steel mortise hinges (attached into sockets with steel countersunk screws). In the latter case, outline the hinge flap with the point of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should fit tightly in the socket. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.
Sanding wood
To obtain smooth surfaces, numerous types of sandpaper (sandpaper) are used. The skin can be used either on its own or wrapped around a block of wood. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried and after final finishing.
For the first sanding, use regular sandpaper, for finishing - fine sandpaper based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces, use a cylindrical grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.
Natural wood finish
Originally the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left in its natural state, but now also includes oiling or waxing. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.
Allow to dry and sand with the finest sandpaper to remove the “ridges” (the rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first coat of finish is absorbed), then apply a second thin coat. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.
When finishing items that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil, such as olive oil, instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it in with a cloth.
You have a choice between mineral spirits oil paint and waterborne acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one paint or another is very small, however, after working with oil paint, brushes should be washed with white spirit, and after using acrylic paint, with running water.
Oil paint fumes can cause dizziness and nausea, while acrylic paint fumes can cause a dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors if possible.
Special types of wood finishes
When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. The texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface means you don't have to worry about damage from pets' claws.
The brush is moved along the fibers until there are no untreated areas left on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.
A candle flame finish helps hide the imperfections of low-quality wood. Oil varnish is applied to the painted surface with a brush. After a while it dries out and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is passed under the surface. Be sure to wait until the surface becomes sticky (it should show fingerprints) and keep the can of polish and brush away from the candle. It is better to do this work together somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get started with any serious work.
These seemingly simple connection elements often turn out to be difficult to manufacture. Loose fit, uneven edges and chips indicate negligence and errors in work. Everything you need for a good result is probably in your workshop.
Without grooves, folds and tongues it is difficult to imagine many joinery designs, ranging from a simple photo frame to a large cabinet. Since ancient times, they have been considered the foundation of carpentry and carpentry and have not lost their importance as standard elements of cabinet furniture parts and other projects that have shelves, drawers or partitions. We will introduce you to all stages of their production, which will allow you to create projects with flawless connections.
What tools do you use?
Methods for making grooves, tongues and grooves vary depending on the arsenal of tools you have at your disposal and whether the finished joint will be visible after the project is finally assembled. (The attached table will help you compare the advantages and disadvantages of these methods.) Remember that some connections can be hidden behind the facade frames, and a more or less even groove can be made even better using special cutters (see the section “Cutters for cleaning grooves will remove flaws in the sawing machine” ).
Having much in common, these samples nevertheless differ depending on their location in the wooden blank. The fold forms an L-shaped depression along the edge or end. The groove has two shoulders (walls) and is located transverse to the direction of the fibers. The tongue also has two walls, but it is located along the grain.
FIVE WAYS TO SELECT GROOTS, RABBLES AND READINGS
| TOOL | RESULT ASSESSMENT | PRICE | OTHER APPLICATIONS | |
| Stackable groove disc | Advantages: cuts cleaner than most conventional blades; precise thickness adjustment using spacers | Disadvantages: leaves triangular grooves in the corners of the sample; When working across the grain, a support board is required to prevent chipping | $80-$250 | Formation of tenons, box joints, half-tree joints, etc. |
| Adjustable groove disc | Advantages: simple and quick setup; affordable price | Disadvantages: uneven sampling bottom; When working across the grain, a support board is required to prevent chipping | $50-$80 | Formation of tenons, half-tree joints, etc., but with low quality requirements |
| Combination saw blade with 40 or 50 teeth | Advantages: allows you to do without a groove disk; when working across the grain, it makes clean folds | Disadvantages: the need to make several passes, which is time-consuming and often leads to errors; tooth marks require cleaning; When working across the grain, a support board is required to prevent chipping | $10-$80 | Rip and cross cuts in normal sawing operations |
| Straight cutter | Advantages: makes clean and rectangular selections; excellent accuracy when the cutter diameter matches the width of the tongue or groove | Disadvantages: deep samples are made in several passes; When working across the grain, a support board is required to prevent chipping | $5-$20 for one cutter or $30-$100 for a set of 6-9 cutters | Selecting nests, milling according to a template, leveling rough surfaces |
| Seam cutter | Advantages: makes clean folds when routing by hand and on a router table; Setup is faster and easier than a straight cutter | Disadvantages: deep folds are made in several passes; when working across the grain, a support board is required to prevent chipping; may tear veneer edges from coated surfaces | $10-$40 for one cutter or $20-$60 for a set with multiple bearings | Not intended for other operations |
The sawing machine works neatly and quickly
When it comes to choosing grooves, rebates or tongues, all workshop workers first of all think about the sawing machine. As a rule, it takes less time to install the groove disk and set up than it does to prepare the router. In addition, I like the fact that the saw machine quickly copes with such work and it is convenient to work with boards and panels of different widths and lengths.
Grooving discs come in two types: dialed and adjustable (so-called “drunk”). We prefer compositors that make square, clean cuts. Of course, the most expensive type-setting disks cut cleaner, and the bottom of the cutting turns out to be flat, and the side surfaces are parallel and without chips. However, most set-up discs leave small triangular grooves in the bottom corners, caused by the beveled edges of the teeth on the outer discs. Adjustable (“drunk”) discs are attractive due to their low price and speed of adjustment, but they have a serious drawback - the bottom of the disc turns out to be concave, and the corners are not straight, and after working with them you have to resort to cleaning.
You can also do all three types of cuts with a 40- or 50-tooth combination saw blade. When choosing a groove or tongue, make the outermost cuts first, and then remove the material between them in several passes. Small irregularities at the bottom of the sample can be smoothed out with a sharp chisel or milling cutter.
In the same way, it is possible to cut folds, but we prefer to make them using two cuts. First, a cut is made to form the shoulder of the rebate. Then a high overlay (150-200 mm depending on the width of the workpiece) is fixed to the longitudinal (parallel) stop, the offset of the disk is adjusted and a second cut is made at a right angle to the first. To avoid kickback when the blade jams and ejection of cuttings, make sure that the cuttings are not caught between the blade and the fence.
How to achieve good results with a saw machine
TIP 1:Set up the machine for clean, neat cuts.
Before you start cutting workpieces, make sure all your machine settings are correct to ensure clean, straight cuts. The longitudinal stop and the grooves for the cross (angular) stop must be parallel to the disk, and the head of the cross stop is installed exactly at an angle of 90° to the disk. Even small deviations can affect the quality of the connections and their subsequent assembly.
TIP 2:For best results, choose a good groove disc.
Stacked groove discs usually consist of two outer discs, several central cutting elements (chippers) and metal or plastic spacers (you can make your own spacers from paper or cardboard). Determine the required sample width, then install the appropriate number of chippers between the external drives (see drawing), Place the entire stack on the saw spindle and tighten the nut. Don't worry if there isn't enough room on the spindle for the stock flange, just set it aside. It is much more important that the nut is screwed in completely.
TIP 3:Make test passes to ensure accuracy.
Cut grooves and tongues on test scraps and check that the settings are correct. To change the width, add or remove spacers and chippers. We prefer to cut out the tongues and grooves to a slightly smaller width than required (literally a few fractions of a millimeter), and then grind the inserted part to its thickness so that it fits tightly. Do not forget to grind the entire part with the same abrasive numbers so that when finishing the product there will be no differences in the smoothness of the surfaces. And be careful that the top layers of plywood veneer do not have areas that have been worn through.
TIP 4:Use an anti-splinter insert to prevent the edges of the sample from becoming torn.
You can make your own splinter guard for your saw. Adjust the groove disc to the required width and lower it below the table surface. Insert a wooden plate, planed and sawn to the shape of the opening, into the table opening, which should be flush with the table surface. Press the plate securely from above, placing the clamp along it and slightly to the side of the disk. With the machine turned on, slowly raise the disc to a height approximately corresponding to the sampling depth. Turn off the machine and measure the blade overhang, then make a test pass on the trim.
TIP 5:Sharpen the entire set, not individual discs.
Carbide teeth become dull over time and require sharpening. Always sharpen each blade and chipper, even if you have never used them, so that all teeth are the same height. If this rule is not followed, some chippers will dive deeper into the material.
TIP 6:Apply tape to prevent the thin veneer from chipping.
When sawing sheet materials lined with veneer, there is always a risk of chipping. To maintain the integrity of the veneer, apply a strip of masking tape along the cut line and along the back edge of the piece to provide support for the wood grain. First make a minimum depth pass to just score the veneer, then lift the blade and make a second pass to the final depth as shown in photo.
The first 1.5mm deep cut cuts the veneer cleanly (left). After cutting the groove to the required depth, carefully remove the tape to avoid tearing off the veneer fibers.
Reduce feed according to the amount of material being removed.
TIP 7:Use a pusher and support boards
We sawed out the left groove in this oak board, supporting the edge of the workpiece with a scrap, but did not use it for the right groove. The support trim helps avoid chipping.
When cross-cutting, the blade will tear out the fibers where they exit the workpiece unless some precautions are taken. Attach a wooden block to the crosscut (miter fence) to serve as a support board, as shown in the next tip, or insert unnecessary trim between the workpiece and the head of the fence.
TIP 8:Longitudinal stop as a limiter.
When making a groove or cross seam, use a longitudinal stop instead of a stop and a wooden overlay to reduce chipping. Sandpaper prevents the workpiece from sliding.
For grooves and folds at the end of workpieces, use a longitudinal and transverse stop at the same time, as shown in photo. Since the cut does not go right through the workpiece, there is no risk of it getting pinched or kicking back. Add a high rabbet pad to keep the blade clear of the rip fence.
For quick installation, secure the cover to the longitudinal stop with double-sided tape. Install a groove disc whose thickness is greater than the width of the fold. Make a cutout for the disc in the trim as shown in drawings. Then, using the longitudinal stop, adjust the width of the fold and process the workpiece.
The versatility of the router allows you to achieve better results
This kit allows you to make folds of different widths with one cutter. The smaller the bearing, the wider the rebate, and vice versa.
Nothing beats a router that produces square and clean grooves, rabbet and flat-bottomed rebates for the precision of making joints that will be visible in the finished product. Whether you control the router with your hands or secure it to the table, you will get excellent results in any case. The router is especially indispensable when selecting blind grooves, tongues and folds (not extending beyond one or both edges of the part). When working with a router, you can see the marks for the beginning and end of the cut, as well as the cutter itself, unlike a saw machine, where the disk is covered on top by the workpiece, which makes it difficult to work on the marks.
Routing neat folds by hand or on a router table
To select rebates, you can use a rebate, straight or spiral cutter with almost equal success. Rebate cutters are sold individually or in sets with bearings of different diameters to produce rebates of different widths. Hold the router in your hands and move it along the outer edges of the workpiece in a counterclockwise direction. For better stability, one of the router handles should be placed above the workpiece. To avoid chipping at corners when working across the grain of wood, use a backing board or stop the operation before reaching the corner, and then carefully rout in the opposite direction, starting from the corner (this method is called climb routing).
When cutting sheet materials, a seam cutter often leaves ragged fibers as a lint on the edges of face veneers rather than cutting them cleanly. To fix this, first mill the rebate to the required depth and width, and then remove the lint using a square sanding block, running it along the grain towards the rebate. Rebate router bits are also great for a router table, which has many advantages over a manually operated router. You do not need to change bearings to change the rebate width. You can position the rip fence flush with the front of the bearing to select the widest rebate, or move the fence forward to select a narrower rebate. When the width of the rebate is controlled only with the help of a bearing, the cutter exactly follows the contours of the edge (including defects), and they will be copied in the joint.
Seam cutters often leave the edge of the veneer frayed rather than cutting cleanly, requiring the use of a sanding block to remove any loose fibers. If individual grains bend into the fold, carefully sand the vertical edge, being careful not to round off any sharp edges.
If you don't have a rebate cutter, you can have success choosing rebates using straight or spiral cutters. Use them on a router table or in combination with a side fence when routing by hand. Avoid dull cutters that leave burn marks or mossy surfaces instead of smooth and clean ones.
The actual thickness of the sheets is not indicated on the labels
Sheet and board materials, such as plywood or MDF, are usually thinner than indicated on the edges or labels. For example, 19mm plywood is often just over 18mm thick. What follows from this? If you plan to make grooves, tongues or folds in these materials, you must first measure them carefully. The thickness can vary even between sheets from the same stack. Always make test samples from scraps and check the tightness of the joints. For such cases, special cutters with a reduced diameter are produced.
To get a really good result, use a straight or spiral cutter whose diameter is smaller than the thickness of the plywood, and make cuts in two passes using homemade or factory jigs.
If, like us, you prefer not a router, but a saw with a dial blade, use this method: first of all, mark all the spacers with letters (A, B, C, etc.) using a permanent marker or engraving. Then fine-tune the width by installing the appropriate discs, chippers and spacers. As you remove the set from the spindle, write down in a notepad which chippers and shims were installed. The next time you work with plywood of similar thickness, you can assemble the disk in the same combination, using your notes as a guide. However, you don't need to trust them completely. Always make test passes to check.
Cutters for cleaning grooves will remove flaws in the sawing machine
The name of these cutters exactly corresponds to their purpose: they cut off irregularities on the bottom, making the tongue or groove perfectly smooth and square.
Here's how to apply them: First cut the groove to the desired width using a saw, leaving an allowance of about 1mm in depth. Make such selections on all parts. Now install the groove cutter in the collet and adjust the router to the final depth. Move the cutter along the sample, pressing the bearing first against one wall and then against the other.
Do not confuse these cutters with similar socket cutters which have a longer cutting section (10-13mm tall) which will place the bearing higher than the wall of the 10mm slot and require the use of a guide.
The outer teeth of the mortise discs leave triangular grooves in the corners, which can be removed with a groove cutter.
The cutter removes a layer a little more than a millimeter thick from the bottom, making the sampling surfaces clean and smooth.
These cutters are constantly used in our workshop. They work cleanly and are suitable for 10mm wide tongues.
Take advantage of the router table for cutting grooves, tongues and folds
For routing these joint elements, we generally prefer to use a router table, which is safer than a hand router and provides better control thanks to the rip fence, comb clamps, cross fence and dust extraction system.
To achieve the best results, you should consider the capabilities and limitations of your router and the cutters themselves. Removing a tongue with a cross-section of 19×10 mm in an oak board leads to overload of the electric motor and rapid dulling of the cutter, so this operation should be performed in two passes, each time immersing the cutter to half the required depth.
Downward helix cutters cut cleanly but guide the chips down rather than pushing them out. Remove debris with a compressor and make another pass.
Sometimes chips and dust accumulate in the depths of the hole or under the board, lifting it slightly, resulting in unevenness at the bottom. Once all passes have been made to the final depth, remove any chips and dust from the table and workpiece and make another pass to clean the sides and bottom of the sample without changing the settings. A down helix cutter can lift the workpiece when cutting a tongue or groove on the router table. These carbide cutters work best when milling through material, allowing the chips to fall through the gap created.
Ascending helix cutters, on the other hand, are good at removing chips from deep in the tongue, but can tear off the edges of face veneer on plywood. Our advice is to use an upward helix cutter wherever a straight cutter can be used, and reserve the downward helix cutter for applications where the cut has an open edge or where the cutter is cutting right through the material.
When milling grooves and tongues by hand, use guides
If the tongue or groove needs to be selected so far from the edge that this cannot be done on a milling table with a longitudinal stop, you have to resort to manual milling. In this case, you have a choice between three options: you can move the router by pressing the edge of its sole against the guide, or use a copying cutter and guide, or install a side stop on the router.
For the first option, attach a straight cutter or a cutter with an ascending spiral into the collet and adjust the routing depth. Measure the distance from the edge of the router sole to the cutter blades. Fix the guide at the same distance from the marking lines, trying to align it as accurately as possible. With the router turned on, move it along the guide to select the tongue or groove.
In order for the tongue or groove to be straight, the sole of the router must move along the guide, touching it at the same point.
Since the cutter's cutter and bearing are the same diameter, you only need to align the guide with the marking line without measuring.
The second option (with a copying cutter) saves you from the error associated with measuring and setting the distance, since the cutter bearing located above the cutting part moves along the edge of the guide. You only need to secure the guide exactly along the marking line.
If the workpiece is too large to be processed on the router table, use a side stop to help make a groove or tongue parallel to the edge of the workpiece at a distance usually not exceeding 200 mm. For this operation, it is better to install a straight cutter or a cutter with an ascending spiral into the collet.
In carpentry, a groove is used for fastening elements of wooden structures or inserting metal parts. You can make a depression in wood using various methods and devices.
An impact chisel is an affordable and simple tool for making a groove. Using several tools with different cutters, you can perform rough work and fine-tune joints. Any deepening is carried out using the same technology:- Using a square, ruler and pencil, draw the outline of the groove. A through socket will require marking on the back side of the workpiece.
- The workpiece is secured with a clamp on a workbench or in a vice; large bars can be secured with staples.
- The marked perimeter is punched out with a chisel, holding it perpendicular and deepening it with light blows of a hammer by 2–4 mm, preventing cracking of the fibers.
- Pieces of wood are carefully selected, chiseling of the next layer continues, and so on until the desired depth is selected.
On veneered surfaces, the veneer is pre-cut with a sharp knife to prevent it from peeling off.
The procedure for cutting a groove for a door hinge with a chisel:- The loop is put in place, the ends are marked with a pencil.
- The thickness and width of the embedded part is measured and drawn.
- The perimeter of the contour is cut to the thickness of the loop.
- Small log cuts are made across the grain from one side of the groove to the other.
- By trimming the wood from the edges, remove waste.
- The recess is aligned along the marking line and cleaned.
- The compatibility of the groove with the hinge is checked.
- Using a power tool, cuts are made along the edges of the groove and every 1–2 cm along the entire length of the selected wood.
- Small pieces of wood are hollowed out with a chisel without much difficulty, and the planes are leveled with a sharp chisel.
The cuts can also be made with a regular hacksaw.
Using a manual router in a workshop takes the process of making grooves to a professional level. The tool provides the ability to perform a variety of cuts, notches and recesses. The operating technology depends on the location, size and shape of the holes. A simple groove is selected in the following order:- The part is pressed to the workbench board with clamps.
- A suitable cutter is inserted into the spindle.
- A depth stop is installed.
- A guide strip is fixed parallel to the groove.
- The cutter is lowered to the surface of the workpiece and the settings are checked for correctness.
- The working part is removed from the part, the milling cutter is started.
- After gaining speed, it makes the first pass.
- The steps are repeated until the required depth and width of the groove is selected.