Black soil, black soil, fertility... And it dries out into stone. One year after mulching with hay, the spring was very loose, but with mulch there was tension.

What can you use to loosen it? Some advise adding sand and peat. I don’t know about sand, but peat... The soil is already acidic, why voluntarily acidify it additionally?

I read some more tips:

High soil density can be caused by high sodium content. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to exclude liquid humate fertilizers, which contain sodium. Adding compost or manure, limestone flour or peat will help increase the looseness of the soil.

To make the soil loose, I would add sunflower husks, and if you want to have depleted and acidic soil, then add sand and peat.

- “In the fall you sow the rye, in the spring you dig it up as late as possible and that’s it.” Well, I’m wary of rye, but in general green manure should help. Although - there is a big discussion about green manure and whether they are beneficial

It helps a lot (if possible) to bring in a couple of humus machines, add buckwheat husks, add sawdust and sand to the ground. One of my friends does this - after weeding, she buries them along the paths, and the next year she makes beds on them.

Use peat, compost or rotted manure; it is also good to add ash or lime. You lay it all out on the future bed and carefully dig it up with a shovel, and then shake it all out again with a pitchfork. That's all. In the fall, after harvesting the super harvest, you can add more peat and ash to the garden bed and again gently shake the soil with a pitchfork, picking out any debris. In the spring, all that remains is to loosen it with a pitchfork and you can plant again.

Humus, mulch, green manure, plants. residues through the shredder. The earth became like fluff.

He brought everything into the beds: sand. manure, peat, ash, compost, leaves, pine needles, mowed grass. I watered it with the biological product “Revival”. As a result of many years of effort, soil appeared in the beds instead of clay. In recent years, I have been using another method: I simply take lumps of clay out of the garden bed and dump them outside the site in a dump.

Local hotheads brought sawdust to the potato beds by dump truck. The ridge was dug up with sawdust. After this, there was no potato harvest at all for 3 years.

I decided to use sawdust last spring. I did as the experts recommended: I added mineral fertilizers to the sawdust: a lot of nitrogen and little phosphorus and potassium. The reduction in potato yield in these 2 experimental beds was very noticeable: approximately 2 times. This season, the restoration of the yield of these 2 beds began.

[I soaked sawdust in a urea solution and laid it on the paths. In the fall everything was loosened, the beds were laid out in a new way]

To increase fertility [on clay], I would do this (preparing the beds): remove the top layer of fertile soil down to the clay, pour an infusion of compost and manure over the clay, and add baker's yeast to it at the rate of 20 grams per bucket of water + a third of a glass of jam. It turns out to be a “lake”, then I take a crowbar and make depressions in the clay at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And we get it - yeast getting into the clay begins to loosen the clay, releasing carbon dioxide, and the formed cavities are filled with a nutrient medium of diluted organic matter. And so we get a more structured soil

With my soil [granite and granite screenings +8 KAMAZ chernozem] (same technology on sandy soil) I make similar “lakes” only instead of yeast I add closter (I make it from flour)

As for the potato harvest, it loves warmth, long daylight hours, and loose soil rich in potassium. (potato tops contain 30-40% potassium)

If you invite earthworms as rippers, they will work almost for free. Well, just food waste, grass and maybe a little manure. I got some work done.

The book "Ploughman's Madness" is about the cultivation of such a site

We improve heavy soils.

Loosening and aeration of heavy soils has a beneficial effect on the harvest, so clay soils need our help and thanks to this very help we will turn them into fertile ones.

In general, heavy soils are soils that have a high clay content, feel a little greasy to the touch, and produce a shiny surface when you run your finger over it. You can form various figures from it and they will not fall apart. Congratulations, you have clay soil. Although it is rich in nutrients, it, unfortunately, cannot boast of moisture and breathability. In rainy weather, it is better not to walk on it, much less process it, since when wet it is sticky and heavy and also forms dense clumps. And, on the contrary, in a dry form it is simply a nightmare - it can be hard as a stone and with the appearance of cracks.

But it doesn’t matter, the main thing is the land and it can be improved. Due to poor air permeability, the biological activity of these soils is very low. Microorganisms in this soil not only do not have enough air, but sometimes they also lack heat. There are two ways to improve this whole picture:

Mechanically - by loosening and adding sand. This gives the soil more air and thus it will warm up better.

Organically - by introducing organic substances, which also improves breathability and enriches with nutrients.

The first way is good in the fall - when digging and loosening the soil (yes, I know how hard it is), add additives such as mature beam, compost, sand or synthetic substances (they can be purchased in specialized stores). It is also recommended to sow green fertilizers. (see article Green manure) with deep roots, such as clover, lupins or a mixture of legumes and grasses. Leave green fertilizers over the winter so they freeze, and dig it all up in the spring. This will give us not only aeration of the soil but also fill it with organic matter.

Nothing is better suited for improving heavy soils than loose compost (see article compost), which is prepared from garden waste, and not mature compost can be used as mulch (see article preparing mulch). Spread the mature compost over the surface and add it to the soil by digging. This will give us loosening, aeration and fertilizer for the soil.

So, the best time to improve the soil is in the fall. Put in order the beds and flower beds where we will improve the soil. We remove all weeds, loosen the soil with a pitchfork at least 20 cm, then scatter or distribute compost 10 cm thick on the surface and sprinkle rock flour on top in a thin layer. Then cover it with a thick layer of leaf mulch for the winter. Next year we plant potatoes in these places, they will loosen the soil, and as soon as we harvest, we plant green fertilizer.

Or you can make an alternative way to improve the soil:

Autumn application of sand, lava granules or synthetic flake mixtures improves breathability. Lupines used as green fertilizer will provide the soil with deep loosening and enrich it. In the meantime, while your soil is preparing and has not yet become fertile enough, plant vegetables in high beds.

Well, since I mentioned additives to heavy soils, let’s briefly explain what’s what:

Leaf compost is an organic amendment; slightly sour; when using, add rock flour, carbonated lime, horn flour; aerates the soil.

Compost is an organomineral additive; fertilizes the soil, making it looser and more crumbly; it needs to be spread out in a layer of 1-5 cm, applied superficially to the soil; suitable for mulching.

Mature beam – organic additive; decayed cow or horse manure; Straw and flour from rocks should be added to fresh manure, left for a year and only then used.

Peat is an organic additive; slow growing natural product; loosens and oxidizes the soil; To protect the environment, it is better not to use this additive.

Chaff or pods are an organic additive; breakdown product of spelled, rice or oats; quickly decomposes in soil; loosens and aerates; contains few nutrients; apply to the soil.

Lava granules are a mineral supplement; crushed volcanic rock; rich in nutrients and microelements; fertilizes, loosens; apply to the soil or mulch.

Rock flour is a mineral supplement; rock ground to a powdery state; rich in nutrients and microelements; fertilizes; Apply a thin layer.

Coarse sand – mineral additive; improves water permeability; it is always necessary to add additional organic matter; Do not use fine sand as it compacts the soil.

Lime is a mineral additive; fertilizer that facilitates the supply of nutrients to plants; increases the acid balance of the soil, neutralizes acidic soils and activates microflora.

I hope this information will be more than enough to get you started. Therefore, you can safely begin hostilities. The main thing to remember is that it is best to mulch the soil in the spring and loosen it in the fall. And in your gardens, heavy soils will be light and fertile. Good luck to you.

While heatedly discussing ways to increase the productivity of certain garden crops, many summer residents lose sight of the fact that all these issues have the same root. And until you deal with it, nothing worthwhile will grow in the garden beds.

Don't push for pity

There is a saying: “A stupid person grows weeds, a smart person grows vegetables, and a wise person grows soil.” These words contain the whole meaning of working in the garden! What do you, dear readers, think? Do you agree with this saying?

And what type of people do you consider yourself to be: stubborn conservatives or curious innovators?

Although, I understand, no one wants to be stupid, probably everyone considers themselves wise. Is this so? How often do I read letters that are filled with complaints about the soil: some complain that their soil is sand, others cry because of clay, and still others generally make “discoveries” such as the fact that, for example, they have loamy black soil. What exactly is this, does anyone know? And all such messages end the same way - nothing grows in the garden, and if it does, it’s very bad.

But, fortunately, there are other messages where people tell how they turned poor land into fertile one. And there are more and more such lucky ones, which is very pleasing. Thanks to them! They are real hard workers. And since we’re talking about soil, how can we not remember about our second bread.

Potatoes are the best indicator of what is going on in the garden. He needs good, loose soil; without it you won’t get normal harvests.

And the one who managed to fulfill this main condition and make friends with potatoes will no longer be able to confuse the rest of the garden crops - which of them will be weird on the fertile land? For example, varietal large-fruited garlic generally grows in me like on a conveyor belt (photo 1). Loose soil is also good for carrots and other root vegetables.

Again, experience with potatoes teaches you to be careful and thoughtful about watering. With them, our second bread yields twice as much. Anyone who underestimates this loses a lot. And any fertilizers and all kinds of growth stimulants are only the third condition for a good harvest.

I don’t think anyone needs to explain why tubers need loose soil. But maybe someone doesn't know? Then, in short: if the soil is light, then the growing tuber effortlessly pushes it apart, and nothing interferes with its uniform growth. So it turns out smooth, depending on the variety, round or oblong, as the breeder “ordered” it. And heavy soil is more difficult to move apart, so the potatoes there are smaller in size and more bizarre in shape.

Voids and dimensions

I have experienced all this wisdom myself. When I bought a small house in the village with a plot of 20 acres, I immediately realized that the former owners did not garden, because there was no soil there, but solid clay. In 2011, I planted 12 varieties of potatoes. Only one survived and gave an excellent harvest - Vineta (originally from Germany). Apparently, there is some kind of indestructible inner strength in him. I still haven’t parted with it: it produces crops in any weather and on any soil, and is resistant to late blight.

That year his tubers were also huge, but not round, as they should be, but lumpy, like cobblestones. This is the result of uncultivated soil. I don’t have photographs from that time, but today Vineta’s tubers are the same as in photo 2. I write so much about him because I am very grateful to him. If it hadn’t yielded a harvest then, I might have given up growing potatoes altogether. Therefore, I advise: if you are new to cultivating this crop, start with Vineta. Well, now I’ll tell you in detail how I improved my soil. By the way, a question: do you know the criteria for assessing its quality? After all, the words “good” or “loose” by themselves mean little.

So, loose soil is when you can stick your hand into it up to the wrist without effort(i.e. approximately to a depth of 15-20 cm). So that. So think about what kind of land you have.

To begin with, I marked out the ridges a meter wide, and my husband fenced them off with boards. It’s already easier: all work to improve fertility now needs to be carried out only in stationary boxes. I made passages between them of 50 cm each. Looking ahead, I will say that later, for the sake of convenience, I changed these dimensions: I made the ridges a little less than 1.5 m wide, and the passages – 70 cm each.

I plant potatoes in boxes in two rows. Believe me, the sparser the holes are placed, the more opportunities the plants will have for normal growth. And only then will they please you, first with strong, powerful stems, and then with large, numerous tubers (if, of course, your variety has not yet degenerated).

Although I don’t strive for records, the past season was generous with achievements. For example, one tuber of the Unica variety grew weighing a little more than a kilogram (photo 3). Someone reading this will say: “That’s all!” I won’t argue, the weight is not prohibitive, but it’s not 150-200 g. After all, there are gardeners who don’t like very large potatoes (though I haven’t personally met such people, but only saw their letters) for fear that there are “giants” inside there may be voids. Well, then they can save time and not read about what I write here - this information is not for them. Although the large tuber potato varieties that I currently grow do not have any voids. And large potatoes just make my soul happy. Imagine, one bush of the same Unica produces 4-5 kilos of tubers, Sonny - about the same, but Galaxy is a little more generous: last year it gave out six kilos (photo 4)!

Yes, it’s a little difficult for me to harvest such a harvest: you dig and dig and wonder when it will end. And the number of varieties, like a snowball, grows and grows, although every year I reject 10. As a result, I don’t even know exactly how many of them I have in use now (last fall I was sent 21 varieties).

Soil improvement experiments

Got distracted again. Let's return to the ground. The first two years I did this: I brought peat, manure, sawdust by car and distributed it all over the ridges, mixing it with clay. The result was ambiguous: the soil did become loose, but by the next season there were no noticeable traces of sawdust and peat. Some monkey work! Although by that time the ground could no longer be called clay, but loam, I realized that this path was a dead end. And the work was terribly hard.

My next experiment was like this. I dug holes the size of a 10-liter bucket in the beds, transferred the excavated soil to another place (for example, to beds made for watermelons and pumpkins), placed fertilizers on the bottom, mixing them with the soil, and on top - a tuber with long etiolated (sprouted in darkness) with sprouts (photo 5), and filled the remaining space with well-decomposed black peat. If desired, it can be replaced with loose compost or soil mixed with sawdust, or finely chopped hay.

This work was also not easy: during the season it was possible to prepare only 13-14 beds in this way. Potatoes grew wonderfully in such pits, the yield was high. But! When I dug up the crop, the peat was still mixed with loam, because in the presence of loose soil, the tubers not only grow to the sides, but also burrow into the depths. And I was forced to improve the technique.

It's very simple, remember. So, first we fence off the place where the bed should be with boards, take out the turf and hammer many small wooden logs into the bottom of the bed. Next, fill the box with loose substrate.

That's all! In the spring, all that remains is to add a little sawdust treated with urea and a little fertilizer for potatoes before planting.

I will add that I do not hill up the plantings, but only mulch them with a 3 cm thick layer of mowed grass (but only after the sprouts have sprouted). Over the summer I add this mulch a couple of times more, and when I dig up the crop, the soil underneath remains loose. Actually, I don’t even dig, I just pull out the tubers with my hands. I take a shovel when the potatoes are deep.

I have to admit that it all looks easy and attractive only in words - making such ridges in reality is very difficult. After all, in practice I replace natural clay with another soil. Consider the amount of work! But everything is done only once, and the result lasts for many, many years. Even if you make at least five such beds in one season, you will already achieve excellent results.

The presence of loose, fertile soil on a plot is one of the main conditions for obtaining a rich harvest. It is important to understand that “loose” soil is well-structured, porous soil. To have such qualities, you should not always rely on natural processes; it is better to use some fairly simple techniques from experienced gardeners. With these little tricks, the soil in the garden will always be loose.

Soil structure

Soil structure is its ability to break down into small pieces. Well-structured soil easily breaks down into small grains measuring 0.25-10 mm. The same definition applies to the concept of “loose soil”.

Soil structure includes 4 main components:

• mineral base (50−60%);
• organic matter (10%);
• air (15−25%);
• water (25−35%).

Loose soil is porous, it allows moisture and air to pass through well, so plants take root and develop better. Light loamy soils have almost ideal performance.

To check the condition of the soil in your area, it is enough to conduct a small test: take a small lump of dry earth in a shovel, toss it, catch it again with a shovel, and then examine the size of the parts into which the soil has crumbled. If they are more than 10-15 mm, then most likely the site has heavy, poorly structured clay soil, which requires some correction of the composition by the gardener.

Lineup changes

To transform clay soil into loose soil, you will need river sand, which must be evenly distributed over the surface. For 1 m² you will need 24 kg (about 15 l) of sand. After this, the soil should be dug up to a depth of 20–25 cm.

It would be useful to attract “helpers” to the site - earthworms, which in the course of their life activities loosen the soil well. In order for these invertebrates to settle on the site, it is enough to place a small compost heap on the territory or mulch the plants with organic materials (for example, rotted compost or dried mowed grass). You can also prepare a special infusion:

• place the roots, stems and leaves of dandelions with a total weight of 1 kg into a container;
• fill them with 10 liters of water;
• leave to infuse for 10-14 days;
• strain;
• dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10.

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This infusion should be watered over the soil, avoiding beds with beets and cabbage.

Manure and humus are not only excellent fertilizers, but also soil loosening agents. Fresh manure should be applied 6 months before planting. For example, this can be done in the fall after digging, distributing fertilizers over empty areas. The rotted product can be applied in the spring.

Fertilizer rate per 1 m²:

• cow - fresh 4−5 kg, rotted 2−2.5 kg;
• horse - fresh 5−6 kg, rotted 2.5−3 kg.

Humus, consisting of peat and rotted manure, can be further enriched with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. This will significantly increase the effectiveness of humus both as a top dressing and as a leavening agent.

Humus needs to be distributed over the surface (20 kg will be needed per 1 m²). Then clay soil should be dug up, going 15-20 cm deep, and sandy soil, going 30 cm deep.

Another effective and at the same time safe method is mulching the soil with mowed grass. Mulching will retain moisture in the soil and protect it from the formation of compactions and crusts after watering and precipitation.

You should start mulching heavy clay soil in June, when it warms up well. The cut grass needs to be dried a little and then laid out in a layer of 7-8 cm. In the fall, the mulch should be dug up along with the soil, which will lead to the formation of humus.

You can also make fertilizer from grass clippings. Other plant material is also suitable for this purpose - leaves, flowers, weeds, tops. To prepare fertilizer, you need:

• fill 2/3 of the barrel with chopped plant material;
• fill with water (to the top of the barrel);
• cover the barrel with film, making several holes in it for gas exchange;
• leave to infuse for 7-10 days, stirring daily.

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The resulting mixture must be filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. After this, you can water the beds. The solution will quickly be absorbed by plants, protect their roots from pests and diseases, and also reduce the acidity of the soil and make the soil softer.

Clay soil is difficult to cultivate; such soil is not fertile and allows the cultivation of limited varieties of garden crops. It is possible to correct the situation, but it will take time and a lot of effort. There are proven methods based on removing excess moisture by changing the topography, applying fertilizers, and growing green manure.

Clay soil

Clay consists of many tiny particles that become highly compacted when exposed to moisture. The monolithic mass allows oxygen and water to pass through itself in small quantities, which is detrimental to most plants. Biological processes are inhibited in clay. Garden crops begin to wither, productivity decreases and many plants die.

Clay soil is considered to be soil that contains up to 80% clay and 20% sand. At home, it is impossible to accurately determine the percentage. An approximate analysis can be done with a simple experiment:

• In the garden, dig a hole half the depth of a spade bayonet. Take a handful of soil with your hand and knead it into dough. If the soil is dry, you need to add a little water.
• Roll out the finished mass into a sausage, then roll up a ring with a diameter of 5 cm.

If the sausage cracks when rolled into a ring, it means the soil is loamy. The absence of cracks indicates increased clay content. In order to grow garden crops on such soil, it needs to be prepared.

Clay soil has negative qualities:

• heaviness;
• conducts heat poorly;
• does not allow oxygen to pass through;
• water stagnates on the surface, which swamps the bed;
• moisture does not reach the roots of the plant well;
• Under the sun, wet clay turns into a crust, the strength of which can be compared to concrete.

All of these negative qualities interfere with the normal biological process necessary for every plant.

It is important to know! The surface of clayey soil up to 15 cm thick may contain a small amount of humus. This is more of a minus than a plus. The problem lies in increased acidity, which has a bad effect on plants.

It is possible to turn clay into fertile soil, but the work is labor-intensive and will take at least three years.

Site preparation

Water and clay form an explosive mixture, which, when hardened, differs little from concrete. Stagnation of moisture in rainy summers threatens the area with waterlogging. Nothing will grow in such a garden. Improvement begins with the arrangement of drainage. The system is designed to remove excess moisture. To figure out whether drainage is needed, conduct a small experiment:

• A hole of about 60 cm is dug in the area. The width of the hole is taken arbitrarily.
• The hole is filled to the top with water and left for a day.

If after the specified time the water is not completely absorbed, the area needs drainage.

Surface drainage

The system involves digging small trenches along the entire perimeter of the site. Moreover, they are dug at a slope so that the water is drained by gravity to a designated place, for example, a ravine.

Dig trenches along paths, along the perimeter of beds, lawns, and recreation areas. Drainage trays covered with gratings are laid around buildings. All surface drainage is connected into one system, which can drain water into wells.

Deep drainage

Heavily flooded areas with high groundwater levels require deep drainage. The principle of the system is the same, only instead of the usual small grooves, perforated pipes - drains - are buried deep in the ground. Mains are usually laid to a depth of 1.2 m. The pipes are connected to storm drainage trays, surface drainage trenches and drainage wells. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their installation and the composition of the soil, but not more than 11 m.

To improve drainage in a heavily flooded area, it is optimal to arrange a combined drainage system, consisting of a surface and deep system.

In addition to arranging drainage, they are improving the relief in the clay area. They try to raise beds, flower beds, and vegetable gardens by adding soil. Water will drain faster from higher ground.

Fertilizer application

Clay soil is infertile. Mineral fertilizers will not help here. Only organic matter will help. Sand will help loosen the soil, and liming can reduce acidity.

Peat with manure

Improving clay soil begins with the addition of manure or peat. Organic matter is added at the rate of 2 buckets per 1 m2 of garden. The earth is dug up to a depth of 12 cm. Over time, earthworms and beneficial microorganisms will breed in this layer. The soil will become loose and moisture and oxygen will begin to penetrate inside.

Attention! Only rotted manure is used, otherwise the roots of the plants will burn. Peat should not have a rusty tint. This indicates large iron impurities that have a bad effect on vegetation. Before adding to the soil, the peat is well ventilated.

Sawdust

Sawdust is considered a good organic matter and perfectly loosens the soil. However, during decay, they pull nitrogen from the soil, reducing its fertility. The problem can be corrected by wetting the sawdust before adding it to the soil with a urea solution. The fertilizer is diluted with water to a concentration of 1.5%.

Advice! Wood chips soaked in pet urine that have been used as bedding work best.

Sawdust is added at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m2 of garden. The earth is dug up to a depth of 12–15 cm.

Sand with humus

Sand will help loosen clay soil. However, it is not fertile in itself. Sand is added with humus. This needs to be done every fall. The amount of sand depends on what crops will grow in the garden bed. Let’s say that to grow vegetables and flowers, 1 m2 of land is covered with 1 bucket of sand. When growing cabbage, apple trees, and beets, the amount of sand per 1 m2 is reduced to 0.5 buckets. In at least 5 years, the thickness of the fertile layer will reach 18 cm.

Important! Sand with humus must be added annually. The beneficial substances from the humus of the plant will be taken away and must be replenished. The sand will settle within a year. If you do not add a new portion, the soil will again become clayey and heavy.

Soil liming

Liming the soil helps reduce acidity and increase fertility. This is done in the fall once every five years. Slaked lime is added to the soil to reduce acidity, and chalk helps increase fertility, as it contains a lot of calcium. The addition of wood ash, dolomite flour and ground limestone shows good results. The amount of substances applied depends on the composition of the soil. This cannot be done at random. A preliminary analysis is required.

Growing green manure

Annual plants called green manures are well suited to fertilize the soil. They are sown before planting vegetables or after harvesting. Young greens are mowed, but not removed from the garden, but dug up with soil. The most common green manures are:

• Rye. Sow in August after harvesting. Greens can be dug up late in the fall or in the spring before planting.
• Clover. The site cannot be used for planting garden crops for three years. Clover is mowed annually and the green mass is left to lie in the garden. In the third year, the plot is dug up to a depth of 12 cm. The clover roots will also rot and become additional fertilizer.
• Phacelia. Sow in spring after snow melts. At least a month after germination, but three weeks before planting, the green mass is mowed. The garden is dug up to a depth of 15 cm.
• Mustard. White mustard is considered green manure No. 1. It is sown in early spring and mowed when the seedling height reaches 10 cm. It can be sown in August after harvesting vegetables, and mowed in the fall before frost. The soil with green manure is dug up to a depth of 12 cm.

Empty areas of the garden can be planted with ground cover plants. In hot weather, they will prevent overheating of the soil, retain moisture and become an organic fertilizer in the future.

Gardeners adopt the experience of the older generation and often use traditional methods of improving clay soil. Here are a few of them:

• Large clods help improve the structure of the soil. In the fall, the site is not interrupted with a walk-behind tractor, but dug up manually with a shovel. Large clods of earth retain snow in winter and warm up better in spring. Fertility will not increase, but the soil will become more pliable in processing.
• The clayey area cannot be dug deeper than 25 cm. This will not make the soil looser. As the depth increases, the properties of the clay become even more pronounced.
• Using mulch on the beds gives good results. Straw, sawdust, leaves or pine needles are spread on the ground around garden plantings. Mulch prevents rapid evaporation of moisture and the formation of crust on clay soil. The thickness of the mulch depends on the material used and is a maximum of 5 cm. In the fall, it is dug up with soil in the garden bed to obtain organic fertilizer.

Advice! It is easier to dig up clay soil in dry weather. It is difficult to work with wet clay, plus you will end up with lumps that are difficult to break after drying in the sun.

Recently, gardeners have begun to adhere to an innovation that involves partial improvement of the soil. The area with clay soil is not dug up and fertilized, but only the beds where garden crops are supposed to be planted.

If all else fails

If work to improve clay soil is unsuccessful, do not abandon the site. Even on such land you can grow useful crops:

• from flowers you can plant peonies, aconite, Volzhanka;
• among garden crops, many varieties of strawberries, cabbage, salads, and peas take root well;
• Among the fruit crops that grow on clay are currants, plums, cherries, and grapes.

It all depends on the varieties of each crop. Those plants and trees that can withstand a lack of oxygen and high humidity will grow on clay.

Plants should not be tested for survival. The composition of any clay soil can be improved, you just need to put in as much work as possible and be patient.