Where to find tomato pegs. How to tie tomatoes

In fact, not all areas perform tomato garters. In the south of Russia, plants grow in open ground the way they want. There are a number of biological reasons for this, the main one being that, lying on the ground, the tomato stem receives additional nutrition by producing new roots. It is due to this that the bush is capable of producing a fantastic amount of fruit. However, in the middle zone, and especially in the northern regions, you cannot do without a tomato garter. Even in greenhouse conditions it is necessary to form bushes, for which there are several ways. Today we will try to analyze the most popular of them so that they are always in your arsenal.

What you need to garter tomatoes

First of all, support is needed. It may be different, but we will talk about this a little later. But the greatest attention should be paid to preparing supporting material. This could be a cord that is strong enough to last the entire season. A special garden tape or thread made from twisted fibers also works well. There is no need for too thick cords in the greenhouse; there will not be too much load on them. However, you cannot use a thin cutting thread, as it can cut the trunk.

Our grandmothers' method, garter on a peg

We will look at the most famous methods of gartering tomatoes and start with what has been done for many generations in a row. Perhaps even today someone continues to place wooden pegs near each plant, to which the top of the stem is tied with a strip of fabric. What are the nuances here? You can drive the peg no closer than 10 cm from the base, so as not to damage the roots. This type of tomato garter does not ensure the formation of a proper bush and requires constant adjustment. As the tomato grows, you will have to tie it up or grab it higher with a second ribbon.

Modification of this method

Gardeners love to make their lives easier by coming up with different new methods for gardening. The tedious tomato garter is not forgotten either. It is much easier to create a favorable environment for the growth of tomatoes and not waste your time. To do this, beams are placed at the ends of the bed, and a thick wire is stretched between them. Now there is only one simple step left: use a piece of fabric to connect the tomato and the wire.

The simpler the more effective

If you follow the previous method, then you no longer need to tie up the plants several times, but only once per season. However, gartering tomatoes in open ground can be completely eliminated if this scheme is further improved. To do this, stakes are installed along each edge of the row on both sides. A wire is stretched between them. Now your plants have reliable support that will prevent them from falling. If the plants have grown too large, you can put another row of wire on top. Such a bed is very convenient to process; the plants do not fall over and do not interfere with weeding, watering and hilling.

Variation with hooks

This method is convenient because tying up a plant becomes simple and convenient; this method works effectively all summer, that is, it justifies itself when growing giant varieties. You need to stretch a cable along the entire length of the row; it can be a strong clothes cord or an old braided cable. Next, hooks are made from strong wire, and rings are made from an old bicycle inner tube. Near each plant it is necessary to tie a fishing line on which the loops are located. The distance between them can be about 25 cm. Hooks are threaded into these loops. Now you have a ready-made design, all that remains is to place a rubber ring under a tomato branch or bunch, bend it in half and put it on the hook. The next garter is made when the bush grows; now the next ring is threaded into the additional loop. This type of gartering of tomatoes in open ground seems too complicated, but it is optimal for large beds.

We choose the best

Gardeners are always trying to optimize pre-existing methods. And one of the most difficult procedures is considered to be gartering a tomato. The soil does not always allow convenient placement of trellises for garter, as can be done in greenhouses, so the entire structure has to be re-created every season. Gardeners effectively use the following option: tomatoes are tied to low pegs, and high beams are driven into the sides of the bed, onto which a transverse bar is attached. Cords are thrown through it and tied to the top of the tomatoes. However, each of the presented methods can give an excellent harvest; you just need to carry out this procedure in time, preventing the plant from falling and rotting. If you start the plants, it will be more difficult to form a bed.

Rules for forming a bush

However, if you do not work to create a bush of the correct shape, then soon your plantings will turn into impenetrable thickets where weeds will quietly grow and various pests will breed. Therefore, gartering a tomato (open ground) relies on another procedure called pinching. The plant is formed when its stems have become strong and started to grow. Once the shoot has reached 5 cm in length, it can be quickly and carefully removed. Moreover, pruners or other devices are not used for this; removal is done manually. Stepchildren must be removed throughout the summer. In addition, it is necessary to remove the lower leaves from the bushes. This is necessary so that the fruits ripen faster and evaporation is reduced. However, you cannot tear off more than 3 sheets at a time.

Let's sum it up

All these agricultural techniques: gartering, pinching and tearing off the lower leaves are aimed at making your harvest truly fantastic. They must be used in every area, since plants that grow on their own, without formation and garter, turn into a dense thicket. That is, the plants take up a lot of space, shade each other and, accordingly, produce a poor harvest. But our goal is to get a lot of tasty and ripe fruits, and not greens at all.

Hello, dear summer resident!

In this summer season, In the spring of 2017, I sowed new low-growing varieties of tomatoes for seedlings and even then I was thinking about replenishing the supply of pegs for tying up tomato bushes, but I could not decide on which specific pegs and, most importantly, what material to buy in addition to the existing metal pegs.

I went to the country shops, I looked at the metal pegs, but they were very expensive. Judge for yourself, 10 metal pegs cost 1,500 rubles, but I need not ten pegs, but, for example, 40-45 pieces. So it turns out that you need to shell out a tidy sum from the family budget.

My wife and I have this option, Naturally, it didn’t suit me even then... His Majesty’s chance helped, as happens in many cases!

I once went into a hardware store, I examined the offered range of goods, but did not find anything suitable as pegs. Then I decided to ask the seller if they had anything that could replace metal pegs for tying tomatoes?

The seller, without thinking twice, leads me to a twisted coil of something light and rebar-like (with a ribbed surface) and says that this is an excellent option for pegs. The cost per linear meter was 40 rubles, diameter 10 mm.

There were 50 meters in the twisted bay, which means that if you cut the pegs one meter at a time, you will end up with 50 pegs. Of course, this interested me, but I had no idea what this fittings were made of.

The seller explained to me, that it is an alloy of glass and plastic and this material does not bend or break and is used for concreting foundations and other concrete work, as an alternative to metal reinforcement.

I told the seller that you need to think and weigh everything, and just shell out 2000 rubles. for “no one knows what”, I do not agree. Arriving at the dacha, I started a conversation with my neighbor, and she told me that such fittings went on sale last year and were made not far from our city of Lipetsk.

The neighbor was also looking an additional number of pegs for tying up our tomatoes, and we decided to find out in more detail about the properties of this reinforcement, whether it can really be used as supports for low-growing varieties of tomatoes, and then buy it.

Well, we talked and talked. I was minding my own business at the dacha, and my neighbor needed to go to the city for groceries (she lives at the dacha all summer) and take care of her other affairs.

In short, A couple of hours later, the neighbor returns from the city and calls me to admire her purchase. She opens the trunk of her car (she has a Lada-four), and there is already a roll of fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm, the price per linear meter is 23 rubles. (standard length of a solid rod is 50 meters).

So as not to upset her too much I gently hinted that she was in a hurry to buy such thin fittings, since she had to buy at least 10 mm in diameter, because this thing is bought once and, perhaps, for the rest of her life, but the job was done.

And the situation with diameters here is like this. Based on the external twisted conductors, it turns out to be 8 mm, and the round timber itself (the body itself) of the reinforcement has a diameter of 6 mm, therefore, both in appearance and, in fact, this diameter of the reinforcement looks flimsy and unreliable.

Here, judge for yourself. The pegs themselves, cut one meter at a time from a whole cane, are strong, but their task is to hold the tomato plant in an upright position. But if the tomato variety is very productive, and, God forbid, there are strong winds during the summer season, then the reinforcement may not withstand such a load and fall to the ground along with the bush?

No, it's fiberglass itself it will not break, bend or crack, but simply will not stay in the soil of the plot under such a load of the bush and will collapse.

Based on these considerations, I bought a bay (50 meters) of this fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. I bought it not in the store where I first saw it, but in a building materials store on the way from home to the dacha.

And, by the way, linear meter in this store it cost me 32.5 rubles. After the purchase, the seller immediately warned me that unwinding the entire whip from the twisted coil must be done carefully and it is better to do this together, since the reinforcement itself is rigid and immediately straightens.

And if you remove all the twists of wire at once, with which the twisted whip is fixed, then no matter the hour, you can get it in the teeth. Here, in short, I bought such a bay of fiberglass reinforcement (see photo)...

Where to unwind this bay? After all, 50 meters is not that for you...

In short, My wife and I decided to carefully unwind all the whip along the garages. There are no people here and there is plenty of free space. Oh, and my wife and I suffered a lot of fear while unwinding this “wheel”.

And the point here is that when we removed one wire twist and freed one end, the whole whip, like a clock spring, tried to escape from the hand and straighten out as it pleased.

If it weren't for our four hands, with which we slowly and carefully intercepted one by one along this “wheel”, spinning it one centimeter at a time, we would definitely get hit in the teeth.

But everything went without injuries, the whip lay quietly along 11 garages, and all I had to do was mark out this whole “sausage” one meter at a time with a marker and saw down these pegs.

I sawed this material an ordinary hacksaw with a metal blade. It felt like a knife was cutting butter—the material was being sawed without any effort or strain. And by the way, the length of the whip turned out to be not 50 meters, but 50.5 meters (half a meter extra).

Then I brought these pegs to the dacha, and wanted to immediately insert them next to the tomato bushes, but noticed that on both twisted veins that encircle the “body” of the reinforcement, there was “pubescence” shining in the sun.

You know, like before, if someone worked with glass wool, then after this work all their hands seemed to be covered in glass “needles” and then the body itched from these “needles”.

No, there was no such effect here, since these “needles” were soft (I tried them with my fingers), but, just in case, I still decided to go through these twisted veins with sandpaper, so that in the future there would be no, God forbid, incidents with these “needles” .

After I sanded each peg, I washed them in a bucket of water and laid them out to dry. No, of course, it was possible to immediately insert pegs into the soil next to the bushes, but I approach each job thoroughly and slowly.

The end result of the work there must be not only competent execution, but also beautiful execution.

Not understood, what I'm talking about?

It's simple. You need to stick the pegs in so that their tops are at the same level - this way the whole tomato plot will look much nicer than how these tops will be at different levels of the horizon.

Well, is it true or not?

That is why, After the pegs had dried, I laid them out on the armrests of old chairs, aligning them along the length and marking 25 cm with a marker. This is exactly the length I was going to stick these pegs into the soil, and 75 cm remains above the soil.

For anyone who is more or less short, and a medium-sized variety, this height of pegs will be just right. I then inserted these pegs into the soil of the tomato plots.

And so that you can compare, Whether there will be a negative effect from fiberglass pegs or not on the tomato plants in two adjacent plots with the “Unknown” variety, I used pegs made of different materials.

Here is one plot with metal pegs with the variety “Unknown”...

Second plot of the same variety with pegs made of fiberglass reinforcement...

Here is a plot with the variety “Roma VF”, in which one bed is with metal pegs, and the second is with fiberglass pegs (see photo below)…

And this is a whole plot with only fiberglass pegs, variety “Snow Tale”….

As of June 24, the situation is for the worse has not changed and this is already pleasing. Here are photos from this period.

These are two plots with the “Unknown” variety...

Here's a photo a little closer. Look what branching bushes are growing this year... it’s a pity to even pluck them...

These are photos of a plot with the variety “Roma VF”...

This is a plot with the “Snow Fairy Tale” variety...

This is from one side...

This is from the other side...

And so, at the end of this season it will be possible to judge the effect of fiberglass pegs on tomato plants.

If the result is neutral, i.e. there will be no negative impact for the plants, then I will buy another bay of this fittings, since next year I plan to increase the number of tomato plots.

Well, off to the road...

The wife is surprised and happy tomato plants of the “Snow Fairy Tale” variety - they stand like small oak trees! This is the first year that this variety has been growing at our dacha, but I myself am amazed at its power of growth and development.

The wife doesn't even suspect that I have already fermented and applied 8 baths of my infusions of EM-elixir and poured them over the mulch under the plants (I haven’t sprayed them on the leaves for diseases yet) and tomatoes, and apple trees, and currants with gooseberries, and honeysuckle, and onions, and garlic, and potatoes, and carrots, and grape bushes, etc.

Perhaps in July I will start spraying with Elixir and on the leaves of all crops, so as not to give diseases a single chance to “raise their heads,” otherwise our rains do not stop and the air humidity is very high.

And here comes another rain...

See what a positive effect To control diseases on all crops, spraying with Elixir was carried out in the past 6 years, starting in 2011. Oh, well, that's the same. Can I offer you information that I myself have not used and tested in practice?

I have this principle– try it yourself in your practice, and then, if there is a positive result, you can offer it to people. I don't suggest a "pig in a poke".

Here are some photos of the bath with infusions of EM-elixir at the dacha (look at the shooting date)…

They turned out a little different in color, but the ingredients are the same...

I spilled this particular infusion tall tomatoes in plots near the fence and against the walls of the barn...

One plot near the fence...

East wall of the barn...

South wall of the barn...

The western wall of the barn...

The second plot is near the fence...

The infusion was scooped out to the bottom... and immediately fermented a new one...

Here, in a couple of days the infusion is ready (you see a film on the surface of the water - that means the infusion is ready!)...

I used this infusion and fermented a new one...

And I used this infusion for watering under the bushes currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle...

I haven't used this infusion yet...

If anyone doesn't have my materials yet for the fermentation of reliable and high-quality infusions of EM-elixir, then you can place an order by delivery in Russia on my website - http://elicsir.dacha7.ru/

Who will need the electronic version? these materials (so as not to get confused with the mail) or who has the opportunity and desire to pay for your order using my Sberbank card, write to me at this email address - [email protected]

After receiving the material, Make the first starter immediately and use it on your plants in a couple of days. The weather is warm, so the infusions mature quickly.

And every year your plants will be less affected by fungal and viral diseases and will delight you with a delicious and environmentally friendly harvest of vegetables, fruits and berries!

And the last thing...

Now I have the following questions for you:
« you used pegs made of fiberglass reinforcement?
If yes, was there any negative impact for tomato plants towards the end of the season?
If not,“Are you planning to use this reinforcement as pegs for tying tomatoes, peppers and eggplants?”

Your questions, suggestions and wishes, write in the comments to this post.

And that's all for today, Goodbye.

Best wishes,
Sergey Dyakov.

So, let's try to figure out how to tie tomatoes in a greenhouse. Tying tomatoes is a simple procedure that involves attaching stems and branches to a support using ropes, strips of fabric, plastic loops and other materials. Tying is carried out immediately after pinching and formation of fruit ovaries. When the plant grows larger, the procedure will have to be repeated. Only some varieties that produce low-growing compact bushes do not require fastening.

It is necessary to tie up not only the stems of the plant, but also the branches with fruits. In some cases, it is worth securing them in two or three places. Do not tie knots tightly or pull plants too close to the support. If necessary, the fastening can be removed and the stem or branch tied in another place.

Benefits of proper garter

Proper staking of tomatoes in a greenhouse brings great benefits to the plants themselves, and also affects the result:

Tomatoes do not tolerate moisture on their stems and leaves. Vertically standing plants can be watered at the root, which will help avoid rotting and;
Hanging tomatoes are easier to collect, they are not affected by late blight and do not become prey for slugs;
Heavy branches do not break even with a very large number of fruits;
When tied, the plants receive more light and air, which speeds up the ripening of tomatoes;
It simplifies the care of tomatoes: weeding, fertilizing, etc.

Photo

In the photo below you can see tomatoes in a garter greenhouse:

What to use for fastening

Securely fix Tomato bushes can be supported using supports and garter material. The latter can be narrow strips of soft cotton fabric, cut nylon tights or knee socks.

After harvest, the strips can be washed, disinfected and stored for use the following year. For tying, do not use thin twine, threads, fishing line, wire or other thin and hard materials that can cut or break branches.

Special devices with adhesive tape and a cutter, reminiscent of a hybrid of garden pruning shears and a stapler, are very convenient. Using such a device, you can quickly and accurately fix the branches at the desired height. The tape is easily removed and does not injure the plants. The clamp with tape is especially convenient when tying tall tomatoes to trellises.

Simple and inexpensive option– plastic clips, fastened with one movement of the hand.

They do not break, can withstand any weight, are easy to clean and can be used for several years in a row. The clips come in different sizes and can be used to secure both stems and branches with fruits.

Tying options

So, what are the ways to garter tomatoes in a greenhouse? There are several of them. The choice of fastening depends on the variety, height of the bush, yield, type of greenhouse and other nuances.

You need to think over the mounting scheme before planting the seedlings; this will simplify the care of tomatoes and help avoid damage to the roots and stems.

To choose the appropriate tying method, you need to try several options. Capital structures will cost more, but they will serve for several years without requiring additional devices.

Not only tomatoes, but also cucumbers, tall eggplants and other large plants can be attached to such supports.

Mobile temporary fastenings good for trial growing and frequent replacement of vegetable crops in a greenhouse.

Useful video

Watch the video below: gartering tomatoes in a greenhouse

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

As soon as the first spring sun warms up, the summer cottages become lively - someone is loosening the soil, someone is digging. Everyone wants to reap a rich harvest in the fall. Amateur summer residents do everything possible to grow tomatoes. This works out differently for everyone - some people collect tomatoes in large quantities and don’t know what to do with them, and some people have only a few fruits per bush.

Why is this happening? The opinion of many people is based on the fact that tomatoes are “loved” or not by the place and the person who cares for them. Actually this is not true. To grow this unpretentious garden crop, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to feed the plants, water them frequently, because tomatoes are 80% water, and also to plant them in time and tie them up correctly. The future harvest depends on how correctly this part of the work is done.

Why do you need to tie up tomatoes?

Most gardeners theoretically know and even adhere to some rules for growing tomatoes. Most people manage to harvest a good harvest, but you can make an effort, set aside a little time and pay more attention to growing tomatoes. If everything is done correctly, then, starting from the beginning of August and ending in late autumn, you can harvest a good harvest of tomatoes.

If we have already become familiar with how to properly grow seedlings and plant tomatoes, then not everyone knows how to properly tie up tomatoes.

Why you need to tie up tomatoes:

it is important that the fruits do not fall to the ground or touch it;
It is necessary to tie up not only tall, but also low-growing varieties of tomatoes;
When tying a plant, it is not advisable to use thin rope, fishing line or wire, as they can damage the delicate stems of the tomatoes. It is better to use nylon tights or cut an old sheet into strips;
You cannot leave garter material from last year to tie up tomatoes next year - this can infect the plants.

Why else is it necessary to tie up tomatoes? According to experienced summer residents, even if you have a low-growing variety of tomatoes and the bushes are not tall, then when you tie them up correctly, you can enhance the growth of the root system. This means that it will become stronger, receive more nutrition, which it will then pass on to the fruits.

An important rule that it is advisable not to miss at the first stage - planting tomato seedlings. As soon as you plant the seedlings, prepare the stakes in advance. They need to be installed at a distance of 10 cm from the future bush, and then immediately make a garter in the form of the number “8”. In addition, when tying, you can use trellises, then there is a chance to save on the consumption of garter material (rope or fabric strips).

And yet, properly tied tomatoes will bear fruit well, the bushes will become stronger, but will not break. Those plants that mature and are supported by stakes will be protected from slugs. In addition, if the summer turns out to be rainy, then tomatoes can be saved from rotting. The garter is also very important to ensure normal ventilation of the plants - they will be well ventilated and warmed up evenly, and you don’t need to put in a lot of effort to spray them to protect them from late blight.

How to properly tie tomatoes can be seen in the photo:

Material for gartering tomatoes

A support for staking plants can be a wooden peg, an ordinary strong stick or trellises. You can also use metal reinforcement as a support.

Most often, summer residents prefer tying tomatoes on a trellis. This is a support specifically designed for tying up climbing garden and vegetable crops. The design may differ - these can be vertical supports made of metal or wood, between which a plastic mesh is stretched. By the way, the mesh can be different, metal or woven independently from a strong rope. The mesh can also be replaced with wooden pegs that are driven into the ground. But the best option is still a ready-made structure for growing tomatoes on a trellis.

By the way, you can adapt and grow tomatoes right next to buildings, for example, plant tomatoes near a greenhouse, and use one wall as a support. To do this, you need to stretch a trellis plastic mesh onto the wall of the greenhouse on one side, and on the other side, if you planted tomatoes in several rows, install support pegs and also stretch the mesh.

As a “dressing” for plants, you can use old linen, sheets, or use nylon tights. This material will last 1 season, or maybe several. If you plan to use the same material for gartering tomatoes in the new season, then it must be processed. To do this, the tapes are washed in hot water with laundry soap or simply boiled for several minutes. This is necessary in order to prevent pests from infecting young tomato bushes, since they reproduce very quickly and the larvae can remain on the tape for a long time.

How to make a simple trellis design yourself

There is nothing complicated about gartering tomatoes. The main thing is desire and some free time.

What materials will you need:

wooden supports;
slats;
nails;
wire.

First you need to prepare 3 supports, this can be a wooden post or a metal one. The height of the support above the ground is 3 m. The posts are installed in 1 row at a distance of 4 m from each other. If you have a large tomato plantation, then you need to prepare more columns.

We will also need wooden slats to connect the top of the supports and the nails. We nail the slats to the supports as tightly as possible.

The end of the wire is secured to the outer supports. We do this kind of work further, in increments of 1 m. If we took 3 pieces of supports, then we should get 3 wires, in the lower part it will pass at a distance of 20 cm from the ground.

That's all, we have prepared the frame for the trellises. Now the next stage is installation of the frame. We will need soft wire, rope or nylon thread. The material needs to be cut into equal sections, 4.5 m long. Now let's get to work - you need to secure the free end of the rope to a support and twist it on the wire once so that the rope does not move. Every 20 cm we wind the next rope on the cross wire to the very bottom. Our task is to “weave” a grid that will have identical cells. In total, we will need about 6 such woven “panels”.

This part of the work can be done in the fall, when the harvest has been harvested and the soil needs to be prepared for the new season. Just at this time, you can dig a small trench (approximately 60 cm wide), the depth of the trench is half a meter. Don’t throw the soil we are digging far away, we will need it.

Now our actions are as follows: we take 6 identical parts of manure (preferably horse) and mullein, 3 parts of pure wood ash (without impurities) and goat droppings and 1 part of chicken. We combine all this, mix it and place it in the prepared trench to the edges. Now all we have to do is cover our natural fertilizer with soil. Just over the winter, the trench will squat a little and in the spring you can begin work.

What we do in the spring: prepare a ditch for planting tomato seedlings. The depth of the groove is approximately 15 cm. We plant tall varieties of tomatoes directly through the trellis.

Caring for the plants is simple - as they grow, they are directed upward so that they curl around the rope or wire. In order not to hill up the soil, the beds can be covered with leaves or dry chopped straw.

As a result of this garter of tomatoes, you can collect a bucket or a little more tomatoes from 1 bush. As a result of growing vegetables on a trellis, you can get rid of many diseases, the bushes will be well ventilated. In addition, harvesting is a pleasure.

Advantages of the trellis method of gartering tomatoes:

you can walk between the rows to care for the aisles and harvest;
the tomatoes will be well ventilated, which means the leaves (especially the lower ones) will not “sweat” and rot;
mold spores (late blight) will not multiply, since there are no favorable conditions for the growth of bacteria;
the tomatoes are in plain sight and are clearly visible, and harvesting will be much easier, since you don’t need to turn and tilt the branches.

How to tie tomatoes on support stakes

Metal fittings, a plastic pipe or a wooden stick are suitable as support pegs. The height of the support depends on the variety of tomatoes. For tall plants, 2 m of length (sometimes 3) is enough, and for short plants, 1 m will be enough.

The pegs need to be driven into the ground so that they hold firmly and do not become loose, since as the plant grows, the load on the support will increase. Therefore, we dig pegs to a depth of 20 cm. The distance between plants is 5 or 10 cm. The pegs need to be driven in simultaneously with planting the seedlings.

Next, after the supports are installed, you immediately need to tie a clothesline (fabric) to the support or make ribbons of the required size from an old sheet. We wind the rope crosswise around the support and the tomato bush, and then fasten it to the support so that it does not come undone.

Garter of tomatoes on linear trellises

Mark the location of the future garden bed. Install supports on both sides (these can be stakes, tubes or thick wooden sticks). The height of the support is 2 or 3 m. Between the supports you need to install a crossbar or pull a rope (not thin so that it does not damage the stems of the plant). We tie a rope to the crossbar so that each plant has its own support, along which the tomatoes will curl as they are pulled out. The lower end of the rope must be tied to the stem of the tomatoes.

How to tie tomatoes in a greenhouse

Tomatoes need to be tied up in a greenhouse a little differently. For example, you can install metal rods at each edge of the bed once for many years in a row. Then connect them together with wire or other durable material.

Next, a dressing material is tied to each bush on one side and to the wire so that the bush is positioned vertically. When the tomatoes gradually stretch out, the rope is tightened. The purpose of adjusting the rope is to level the bush so that it is positioned vertically.

Hard and thin garters cannot be used, as well as wire, since this material can damage thin, immature stems and young shoots. It is better to take soft and thick dressing material. An old sheet or any thin knitted items (T-shirts, T-shirts, underwear) will do just fine.

You cannot stretch out the time so as not to miss the moment of tying, otherwise the bushes will grow crookedly and then it will be impossible to straighten them.

There is another way of gartering, when a small peg is placed next to the bush, and the seedlings are immediately tied to it. Next, you need to stretch a ribbon or rope from the peg to tie the plant. If the fit is dense, then the loop should be loose when tying. Separate tomato branches are tied into a trellis. Pulling shoots together is strictly prohibited. Tomatoes should grow freely, and to prevent them from breaking or falling over, a garter is exactly what is needed.

If you have chosen the trellis method of gartering tomatoes, then when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse you need to remove the lower leaves. The humidity in the greenhouse is high and plants can become infected with late blight.

In an adult tomato, the lower part (30 cm from the ground) should remain free.

If, nevertheless, the plant becomes infected with late blight, then the leaves must be removed from the lower part completely, right down to the brush. If everything is in order, then the leaves need to be removed sequentially, every 3 days 1-2 leaves.

It is important that the dressing is loose both when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse and in open ground. The material should not cut into the stem and literally cut it. So don't skimp on rope or old sheets. And if you don’t have time to do this, go to a specialized store, where you can buy devices for tying tomatoes - clothespins, rings or large-mesh plastic mesh. This material will serve you for many years.

You can learn how to tie tomatoes from this video:

From this article you will learn in what ways you can tie up tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the garden.

To grow vegetables at home, you need to know all the details about each vegetable separately. In this article we will learn how to tie up tomato bushes and whether it is necessary to do so.

What are the modern methods and options for gartering tomatoes, and what can be used for gartering?

Garter of tomatoes to a trellis

We have already planted the tomatoes, and they have taken root; in order to have something to tie the bushes to, we need to drive wooden pegs or metal rods into the ground. Methods for gartering tall tomatoes there are:

An individual peg for each plant, the height of the length of the plant, plus 25-30 cm for driving into the ground
To the trellises
To linear trellises
Construction of a cage for each plant
Construction of pyramidal or triangular caps for 3 or 4 plants at once
Attaching the plant to the wire using hooks and rings

We installed pegs or other devices in the ground, and we will tie the plants to them. Suitable for garter:

Strips of fabric, 3-4 cm wide
Nylon tights or stockings
Soft rope
Plastic clips

Note. All thin and hard garter materials are not suitable - they can cut into the branches and trunk of the plant and destroy it.

Cannot be used:

Fishing line
Wire
Threads
Thin and tough rope

Important. If you take last year's garters, then before using them, you need to wash them with laundry soap to kill bacteria.

How to buy pegs, fiberglass reinforcement, plastic clips, stapler, device for gartering tomatoes in Aliexpress: links to the catalog

If you don’t have pegs or binding material, you can buy them at any time of the day in the Aliexpress online store, and. There is a wide range of products for gardening.

When and why should you tie up tomatoes in a greenhouse or open ground?

To get a high yield of tomatoes, you need to learn how to properly care for them, including tying them up. Tall varieties are tied up, and low varieties with a bountiful harvest. They are most often planted in greenhouses, less so in open ground.

Experienced gardeners advise tying up all low-growing varieties, because this way you can get a much larger harvest.

Tomato garter needed:

To make it easier for plants to support the weight of the fruit, otherwise they may break.
Tall tomatoes with fruits, if not tied up, will lie on the ground and rot or be eaten by pests, and to prevent this from happening they need to be tied up.
Tethered plants are easier to pinch (remove additional shoots that may bear fruit).
It is not advisable to pour water on the leaves and set fruits, and therefore you need to water the plants closer to the roots, and this is easy to do with tied tomatoes.
It is also easier to fluff up the soil around the tomatoes if the plants are tied up.
A plant positioned vertically receives more sun and air, and therefore the fruits will ripen faster.

Important. We begin tying up tomatoes 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse.

How to properly tie tall tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground: 5 methods, rules, tips for beginners

Tying tall tomatoes

Some varieties of tall tomatoes grow up to 1.5-2 m tall. The stakes should also be of the same height. In open ground, plants of this height are planted approximately at a distance of 1 m. And they need to be tied up as they grow, 3-6 times per season.

There are 5 main ways tying up tall tomatoes:

Tying up to the pegs plants using fabric strips or soft rope.
Construction wire frame, cone-shaped, around the plant. The method is expensive if there are a lot of tomato bushes.
Tying tomatoes to the horizontal trellis. This is done like this: we drive high stakes along the edges of the bed with tomatoes. We stretch the wire between the stakes, starting from the bottom and up, every 30 cm. First, we tie the plants to the bottom wire, then, when they grow up, higher.
Tying tomatoes to the vertical trellis. This method is only suitable for greenhouses. We stretch a wire along the ceiling of the greenhouse, and the tomatoes are tied to it.
Tying tomatoes to the grid. We install a metal mesh between two posts and tie tomato bushes to it.

In the garden, you can tie tomatoes using all methods except 4, and in the greenhouse you can use 3 and 4 methods of tying.

How to properly tie up low-growing tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground: 5 methods, rules, tips for beginners

Low-growing tomatoes in the garden can be tied, or they can be left to grow without support. Each case has its pros and cons. If plants grow without support, they take additional root, and the fruits on the ground can rot from moisture. So, experienced vegetable growers advise tying up low-growing plants. This can be done as follows ways:

The most popular method for low-growing tomatoes is tying to the posts, about 1 m high. We drive the posts into the ground 5-10 cm from the plant. We wrap the plant and the post with a strip of fabric or a soft rope in the shape of a figure eight, and tie the ends of the rope to the post, like a bow. The rope should be tied loosely and not cut into the plant.
Tying bushes to a low trellis. We drive low stakes, about 1 m high, along the edges of the bed with tomatoes. Attach a thick wire to the stakes on top. We tie each bush to the wire with a soft rope.
Devices in the form quadrangular cap. Around 4 tomato bushes we hammer 4 low pegs, which we wrap with wire: at the bottom, in the middle and at the top. The wire will support the bushes and then the fruits.
Devices in the form triangular cap. Near each bush we drive pegs into the ground and wrap wire around them in several places. The bushes are obtained in the middle of the triangle.
Net, about 1 m high for tying tomatoes. At the beginning and end of the bed with tomatoes we hammer in 2 columns. We attach a net to them, to which we tie the tomato bushes.

Video: How to tie up tomatoes? An easy way using a plastic bottle

How to properly tie tomatoes to pegs in a greenhouse and open ground: description of the method

In the garden, for gartering tomatoes, we first install pegs to each bush. They can be wooden or metal. We drive the peg into the ground 5-10 cm from the plant. It must stand firmly. With a soft strip of cloth or a soft rope, we wrap the peg and the plant in a figure eight several times and tie it to the peg, without pulling the plant to it, but so that there is free space and the plant can grow.

Video: How to tie up tomatoes in open ground

How to properly tie tomatoes on a trellis?

Tall tomatoes are tied to a trellis

We install trellises for tying tall tomatoes in a greenhouse or in a garden. This is done like this:

Along the bed with tomatoes, we drive iron stakes into the ground, about 2 m high, every 1.0-1.5 m.
Between the stakes, from the very bottom to the top, at a distance of 35-40 cm, we stretch a thick wire.
We tie each plant with a soft garter to a wire.
In addition, as they grow, we tuck the branches behind the wire.
When the fruits grow, we also tie them to the wire, or hook them to the wire.

Using this method, you can leave additional branches on the plant; the support is reliable and will withstand everything, and besides, the harvest will be larger, and in the greenhouse you won’t be afraid if frost starts.

How to properly tie tomatoes in a linear way?

Tomatoes tied to linear trellises

The linear method is used in the greenhouse and in the garden:

We drive stakes 2 m high in a straight line along the bed with tall tomatoes.
We stretch a strong wire at the top between the stakes.
We tie one end of a long soft garter on the plant at the very root, and tie the other end of the garter at the top with a wire.
We tuck the growing branches behind the garter and direct them upward.
We also tie large fruits to the wire.

How to properly tie tomatoes on hooks and chains?

Garter of tomatoes on hooks

The method of tying tall tomatoes on hooks is similar to tying them on trellises. Along the edges of the bed with tomatoes we bury 2 metal stakes, about 2 m high. We stretch the wire between the stakes. We tie a fishing line with a loop to the wire above each bush, and attach hooks to it. We cut the bicycle inner tube into thin rings. We thread the ring under a branch of the plant, bend it in half, and hook it to the fishing line. Hooks can be made from aluminum wire or bought in the online store.

How to properly tie tomatoes in a cage?

Garter of tomatoes in a cage

One way to tie up tall tomatoes is to build a cage for each tomato. We make the cage from 4 pegs; wooden or metal ones are suitable, depending on the height of the plant. We hammer the pegs around the plant and connect them together with wire in 3-5 rows at different heights, to which the plant is attached using a soft rope. We attach the grown plant higher to the wire.

How to properly tie tomatoes without stakes?

Tying tomatoes without stakes

In this method of tying tomatoes, stakes are still needed, but not for every bush. This is done like this:

We plant tomatoes in 1 row.
We hammer in 3 pegs on both sides of the row with tomatoes, the middle peg on each side is higher, and there are low pegs on the edges.
We connect the pegs around with a soft rope, it will act as a limit for the bushes.
In addition, we also connect high pegs with rope or wire at several levels in order to tie tomatoes to it.

How to properly tie tomatoes in a figure eight in a polycarbonate greenhouse?

Tying tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse

The polycarbonate greenhouse is tall, it is heated, and you can grow tall tomatoes in it all winter. You can tie them to trellises in a simple way - in the form of a figure eight or, as people say, with a bow. First you need to tie the rope to the plant loosely so that there is free space near the trunk, and then tie the rope to the wire at the top without pulling it.

A polycarbonate greenhouse is large, and there is a lot of work in it; to simplify the work, you can purchase a special device similar to a stapler from an online store. The device works by tying the plant and the wire with a special tape and fixing them together. This way you can quickly tie up all the branches in a short time.

What is the easiest method for gartering a tomato?

The easiest way to tie tomatoes is to a peg

The easiest method for staking tomatoes is to stake each tomato. It can be wooden, metal or a piece of pipe. The height of the peg should be no less than the height of the tomato when it is fully grown, and about 30 cm additional for driving into the ground.
We drive the peg 5-10 cm further from the tomato bush. Then we lightly wrap the garter around the plant, twist the ends and attach it to the support. When the tomato grows, we tie it higher with another ribbon, or remove the one that was there and tie it higher.

This peg and garter method is only suitable for medium-sized tomatoes; a plant belonging to tall tomatoes may not be able to withstand such a peg, and the structure along with the plant will collapse.

How the Chinese tie tomatoes: a description of the method

The Chinese have developed many drought-resistant tomato varieties that have proven themselves well in our country. Chinese technology for growing tomatoes also appealed to those gardeners who came across it. The Chinese's tying of tomatoes is also very original and fast. It consists of the following actions:

We plant tomatoes in a row with a distance of about 20-30 cm between them.
We hammer pegs between the tomato bushes.
We place the bobbin with the rope in our backpack.
We take 1 peg and drill a hole at the end of it so large that the rope can move freely.
We pass the rope through the hole in the peg that we have in our hand.
On the first peg, standing at the beginning of the row, 10-20 cm from the bottom, we tie the end of a soft rope.
Then the plants will be tied up automatically: we walk at the usual pace and direct the stick with the rope first to the bush, then to the peg, wrap it around it; We make movements with a stick as if weaving a basket. So we reach the end of the row of tomatoes.
Then we return, but now the rope should lie on the other side of the bush.

Video: Garter of tomatoes. Pro

How to tie up Bull's Heart tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground: features, tips

Bull's Heart tomatoes

Tomatoes "Bull's heart" are tall. As seedlings, in a garden or greenhouse, we plant them at a distance of about 0.5 m, one plant from another. It is good to tie them to trellises with soft rope. Thick wire can be used as a trellis. The wire is attached to two iron stakes. We tie a rope to each bush at one end, and tie the other end of the rope at the top to a wire.

When the plants grow up and fruits begin to set, they also need to be tied to a trellis, otherwise the plants may not be able to withstand the heavy weight of the fruits, because one tomato of this variety sometimes weighs up to 0.5 kg.

How to tie cherry tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground: features, tips

Cherry tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes can be grown in the garden and greenhouse. Cherry bushes are low, medium and high in height, depending on the variety. Low and medium-sized cherry trees do not need to be tied up, but tall cherry varieties can reach 2 m in height.

When cherry seedlings, planted in a greenhouse or garden, reach 30 cm in height, you need to install supports. Metal rods or, if there are a lot of plants, trellises are suitable for supports. Cherries continue to grow and need to be tied higher and higher.

In addition to eating them, you can decorate your balcony with cherry tomatoes if you buy decorative cherry tomatoes. We plant these tomatoes on the balcony in a hanging basket; when the fruits set, they will hang down beautifully, and so that the branches do not break off under the weight of the fruits, we will stretch a wire along the balcony and attach the branches to it.

How to make sticks and supports for tomato garters with your own hands?

Pegs for gartering tomatoes can be made from the following materials:

Thick tree branches
Wooden boards
Long wooden planks
Metal rods
Long pieces of metal pipes
Strong plastic sticks

To make it easier to drive into the ground, we trim the wooden stakes with an ax on one side. Metal rods and pipes are more difficult to install and require skill.

How to treat pegs for gartering tomatoes?

Tall wooden sticks are suitable for pegs. To prevent them from rotting by the end of the season, they need to be slightly burned over a fire or in an oven. Pegs treated in this way will be suitable for tying tomatoes for several years.

Do I need to tie up tomato bunches?

Tied bunches of tomato

Tomatoes of large varieties, such as “Oxheart”, need to be tied with a rope or hooked, otherwise the branch may not hold up and break. Some gardeners make their own hooks from wire and attach them to a branch to the trellis. But you can also order ready-made hooks in the online store, or.

What happens if you don't tie up tomatoes?

Tied tomato bushes bear fruit better

Tomatoes can be left untied in areas with a hot climate, even if they are low-growing. There the fruits lie on the ground, the days and nights in the southern countries are warm, they ripen quickly and do not have time to rot. But tall tomatoes will have to be tied up in subtropical countries.

And in temperate latitudes, where it is often cold for tomatoes at night, lying on the ground, they rot, they are eaten by pests, and so you can lose the entire harvest. Therefore, you need to tie up both low and tall tomatoes.

So, we learned how to tie up low and tall tomatoes, in open ground and in a greenhouse.