The reason for building a retaining wall is usually an area with differences in height. But even if you have a flat landscape, the wall will make it not boring. You can build it yourself.

Brick, wood, natural stone, concrete, as well as various combinations thereof, are suitable for building a wall. Let's give the structure a beautiful bend. Let's decorate our creation with ceramics, pebbles, shell rock, and plant it on top and along the plant. The highlight of the garden is ready!

When should you create a retaining wall?

It is better to strengthen and fix the difference in heights or slope in the garden. However, a retaining wall on a site can have not only a utilitarian, but also a decorative value: a smooth surface will quickly become boring, and a vertical surface can “break” it. The wall can become the border of mixborders and take part in the zoning of space.

A retaining wall is built not only from stone, so you can choose a material that is in harmony with the surrounding landscape and buildings. The main thing that unites any structure is drainage at its base: it will prevent water from washing away the building.

For reference. On loose soils, before pouring the foundation under the base, a wooden fence is made in the pit. There must be drainage at the base of any retaining wall.

Durability Guaranteed

The wall can be not only stone: concrete support is no less good, and most importantly, it will cost less. A concrete wall may have twists and turns, so its construction will require a trench. The depth depends on the height of the building: a meter-long fence will require 30–40 cm. A cushion of gravel and crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, reinforcement is placed on top, fastened with knitting wire, and the formwork is made from boards 25–40 mm thick, which must be tightly fitted to each other and secure with nails or ties. To prevent the boards from bending and to hold the concrete mass, risers are dug into the ground every meter and a half. When pouring concrete into a finished structure, you need to ensure that the form is filled evenly.

Wall cladding

After allowing the concrete to harden, the formwork is removed, defects are smoothed out using plaster mortar and cladding is made. It is made with natural or artificial stone, ceramic tiles, etc. The material is placed in several stages: having installed two decorative rows outside, leave them to harden for a couple of days, then put a few more rows and again wait for shrinkage. And so on until the top of the wall, when all the work is finished.

4 components of a retaining wall

• Foundation - the underground part of the entire structure
• Body - the above-ground part located on the foundation
• Drainage for increased durability
• Drainage for extended service life

Brick retaining wall

Brickwork is no less common for constructing a retaining wall.. Perhaps brick will seem too prosaic to you, but if there are some reserves left after the construction of the house, then it’s worth putting them to use. Bricks are laid in the same way as when constructing buildings. True, the thickness will be smaller - for a meter-long support, the width of half a brick is enough (if we make it higher, then we put it in one brick). The brick wall must have a foundation at least 30 cm deep and a width 20–30 cm greater than the width of the wall itself. Concrete is poured into the dug trench so that its level is 5 cm below the ground surface. The brick is laid after the concrete has hardened. Having completed the masonry, you can plaster and line the wall like concrete, or you can leave it as is.

Stone embankment

The most expensive and time-consuming way to create a retaining wall is from stone. But the investment is justified: stone fences look great on the site, they are organic and eye-catching. There are two ways to lay natural stone: with cement mortar and dry masonry. In both cases, a foundation will be required - the technology is the same as for a brick support. But a stone wall, unlike a brick wall, must be at least 30 cm wide.

Dry method

With the dry method, the stones are simply stacked on top of each other - large ones in a checkerboard pattern, and the space between them is filled with smaller fractions. The advantages of this method are the relative cheapness and natural appearance of the structure. If you fill the gaps between the stones with soil and plant plants, the wall will look beautiful and natural. True, it also has disadvantages: a small margin of safety and the impressive thickness of the building. The maximum height of a dry stone retaining wall is 4 meters.

Connecting link for retaining wall

If the wall is “forever,” then the stones are fastened with lime-cement mortar. It is worth first laying out the stones dry (without a fastening composition) to make it easier to choose the most successful combination of stones in size, color and shape. This will help make the masonry denser. When the “mosaic” has come together at the next level, you can re-arrange it with the solution. Approximately 2 cm of mortar is applied to the dried foundation, then the first bonding stone (one of the largest stones) is laid, then other larger stones are placed along the edge. The middle can be filled with smaller cobblestones, trying to lay them as densely as possible. A second level is laid on the first layer of stone so that the seam of the two lower ones overlaps the middle of the upper one. The connecting stones run along the entire length of the wall at least every meter. Finally, the surface of the stones is cleaned of the solution with soap and water.

Wooden retaining wall

An easier way to build is a wooden wall. To make it, you will need smooth and high-quality logs (trunks with a diameter of 12–18 cm). The easiest way is to place the logs vertically, pressing them tightly together and digging them into the ground. The height of the structure will depend on your preferences, but do not forget that trunks must be buried to a depth of 40–50 cm. This will allow them to stand firmly and not “walk” in spring and autumn, when the soil, oversaturated with moisture, begins to float. For a meter-long wall, the length of the log will be at least one and a half meters.

Protect trunks from rotting: thickly coat the lower part with heated bitumen or treat with special impregnations.

Finishing touches

The retaining wall can be supplemented with plants. It’s good to hang vines from above, and let down vines from below. If the wall divides the area into upper and lower terraces, create compositions of coniferous plants on them. Shrubs also look good - the main thing is that the material from which the retaining wall is made is visible behind them.

To give your stonework an antique feel, brush the stones with kefir or yogurt. This way they will quickly become overgrown with moss.

Stone wall around the house

A house “wrapped” with a low retaining wall made of stone looks more interesting. Even without extensive construction experience, you will be able to build the same one. So, collect the stones and start laying.

Stone wall around the house

Putting up a wall

1. Dig a trench for the retaining wall, removing a layer of sod and soil. When preparing a trench, periodically check its level.
2. Prepare the solution. Set up a bonding stone on which you will lay the rest. Place the stones row by row.
3. Wash the wall with plain water from a hose without using chemicals or hard brushes so as not to spoil the color and texture of the stones.

In conclusion

The retaining wall stands in the open air, which means it is exposed to atmospheric influences. It is very important to treat the masonry seams so that the building lasts as long as possible. Special compounds (sealants) will protect the support from deformation and destruction.

A wall made of stone without the use of mortar - reliable and beautiful

Materials for construction can be very different, and they are selected taking into account several factors. It is important to take into account the architectural features of the house, the existing landscape design, and financial capabilities.

Possible materials and how to use them?

To build a retaining wall, it is possible to choose either a monolithic structure with buttresses, or a lightweight version made of bricks or blocks. Let's consider several types of building structures, and also evaluate their advantages and disadvantages.

Natural stone - functional and beautiful

Natural stone includes materials such as boulders, flagstone, rubble stone, and cobblestones. The essence of natural stone is a hard and durable rock. The advantage of natural stone, of course, is its natural beauty, which does not require additional processing. This will be confirmed by numerous photos of finished objects. If you point out the disadvantages, then you should remember its relatively high cost, and natural stone weighs a lot.

Wall made of natural stone - functional and beautiful

As an option, you can consider artificial stone. It is cheaper, but “loses its appearance” after a certain time. If this circumstance does not matter, then a retaining wall made of artificial stone can also be built.

Concrete is gray but reliable

Concrete is a relatively inexpensive and fairly reliable material. Of course, you will have to tinker with installing the formwork, preparing the solution and pouring. But if a high-strength wall is required, then concrete is the best option for this case.

Reliable retaining wall cast from concrete

Note that a wall of almost any configuration can be cast from reinforced concrete. The appearance of concrete does not inspire optimism, but sometimes this is not necessary. In any case, the smooth and rough surface of a concrete wall allows for almost any finishing option. Reinforcement of concrete increases strength and allows you to create a durable landscape element.

Note that reinforcement of a reinforced concrete wall is necessary when constructing a large object, when the slope passes through the entire site. If we are talking about a small structure, you can do without buttresses, large-scale pouring and reinforcement, using brick or natural stone masonry.

Brick can be different

Brick is quite suitable, especially if it is a clinker facing material with imitation of natural stone. However, the cost of such bricks is noticeably higher than the price of ceramic ones. Standard brick is not the best option, as it is easily destroyed by moisture and frost. Sand-lime brick is not suitable at all. On a complex slope, it is practiced to strengthen a brick retaining wall with buttresses.

The brick retaining wall can be original

Suitable solid fundamental block (FBS)

The construction industry uses FBS to construct reinforced foundations. Retaining walls are also made from FBS, but their construction will require a crane. Installation of a reinforced concrete retaining wall without a crane will not work, because the blocks are heavy. But a wall from fundamental blocks can be built very quickly.

Foam blocks can be used

This material is actively used in the construction of residential buildings and is also suitable for the construction of retaining structures. It has a whole set of positive qualities: lightweight, easy to install, and relatively inexpensive. Noting the shortcomings of foam blocks, one should point out the nondescript surface, which requires lining the retaining wall with finishing material. Manufacturers offer a more expensive version of foam blocks with a ready-made decorative texture, in which case finishing is not required.

Expanded clay concrete blocks are also an option

Expanded clay concrete blocks are quite suitable for our case. It should be taken into account that such blocks usually have internal voids. If water gets inside, the block will be destroyed by frost. It should be noted that initially blocks made of expanded clay concrete are noticeably stronger than foam blocks. This quality makes it possible to construct even swimming pool bowls from them. Almost all of the listed blocks do not have the best appearance, but allow a variety of finishing options.

A simple and reliable wall made of expanded clay concrete

How to calculate the wall size?

Preliminary preparation for construction begins with establishing the type of soil. If you know on what soil the structure will be mounted, you will be able to correctly calculate the reliability of the finished object. Professionals recommend the following calculations:

• for dense soil - height to width ratio 1:4;
• for medium density soil – 1:3;
• in the case of loose soil – 1:2.

How is the drainage system equipped?

Installation of a drainage system is mandatory for retaining walls made of rigid and waterproof materials. Firstly, a large amount of water can wash away the soil directly from the structure, as a result the wall can burst, tilt and even fall. Secondly, heaving of clay soil during frosts can lead to the same consequences. Thirdly, moisture entering the body of the structure will lead to its destruction and peeling of the finish.

The type of drainage system is selected before construction begins in order to correctly integrate it into the structure of the structure. Three types of drainage are used:

1. Longitudinal. To lay the drainage system, plastic pipes with perforations are used. The pipes are wrapped in a layer of geotextile for filtration. As a rule, drainage pipes are laid behind the wall on the side of the hill, with their ends leading out on both sides of the retaining wall. Water enters the pipe and easily leaves the building; solid particles are retained by geotextiles.
2. Transverse. Installation begins with the arrangement of transverse channels located along the entire length of the structure at regular intervals (approximately 1 m, but no more). The diameter of the drainage channel is 5-10 cm. Excess moisture leaves through equipped channels beyond the outer side of the wall.
3. Combined. The system includes both types of drainage: longitudinal and transverse, which allows you to reliably protect the wall from the destructive effects of moisture.

Crushed stone and geotextiles will provide the necessary drainage

Phased construction of a retaining wall

Whatever material you choose to cover and strengthen the slope: cobblestone, rubble, reinforced concrete or brick, construction should begin with a plan for the upcoming work. A proper work plan looks like this:

1. Make a drawing of the object. Indicate on the drawing a complete and detailed plan of the structure, mark the boundaries of the wall and indicate the places of bends. Write down the dimensions, indicating the width and height of the wall on the drawing to make it easier to determine the amount of materials.
2. Next, we transfer the information from the drawing to the surface of the selected plot of land. We mark the place where we will dig a trench.
3. Let's start digging a trench. We calculate the depth of the retaining wall based on its height and the type of material used to construct the object. With a wall height of 1 to 1.5 meters, the depth of the trench is 40-50 cm (if natural stone or concrete is used). If the wall is built from blocks or bricks, with a structure height of 1-1.5 meters, it is necessary to dig a trench 30-40 cm deep. Please note that all these calculations are valid for a wall whose length does not exceed 2 meters. Then we can ignore the possibility of soil heaving, since with such a length the entire structure will rise and fall. If the length of the object exceeds 2 meters, it is necessary to construct a foundation below the freezing depth.
4. We build a wall cushion. We fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand 10 cm thick, pour gravel or crushed stone on top (layer more than 10 cm). We thoroughly compact the entire pillow.

Construction of a retaining wall is underway

What type of foundation should I use?

The reliability of a structure depends on the strength of the foundation on which it is built. Often, with complex terrain and heavy loads, the structure has to be reinforced. Let's consider options for foundation work:

1. In the case of a concrete construction option, the role of the foundation is performed by the monolithic wall itself, which is poured into pre-prepared formwork. For a reinforced concrete structure, it is necessary to first equip a frame made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcement is placed no closer than 5 cm from the edge of the concrete in increments of 15-20 cm. The reinforced concrete structure should stand without load for about 3 weeks, sheltered from the sun and periodically moistened with water.
2. When using “masonry” materials: cobblestones, flagstones, rubble, boulders, bricks, FBS blocks, expanded clay and foam concrete blocks, it is necessary to fill the foundation according to the above scheme using reinforcement. After this, masonry is carried out using cement mortar. To save material, the wall thickness can be variable: thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top. Rubble stone can be laid using white cement: the masonry will take on a presentable appearance.
3. The remaining space between the ground and the wall must be filled with soil only after the solution has completely hardened and compacted without damaging the building.

Reinforcement frame of a retaining wall foundation

Useful design additions

First, some good news. First: with a small height of the retaining wall, up to 0.7 m, and a length of no more than 2 m, you can get by with a foundation of sand and crushed stone. Second: if there is a need to build a wall with a height of, say, 2 m, it is better to build a terrace and two walls 1 m high, which are fundamentally simpler in design. Third: it is better to separate a long solid wall with spacers, for example, from a 20mm thick board to prevent cracking during frost heaving of the soil. Fourth: if the wall height is several rows of stone, you can do without mortar.

Less bad. But if the wall is too high, then high lateral soil pressure is possible at the foot of the hill, especially when the soil is mobile (that is, sandy); This means we will have to strengthen our structure with buttresses. That is, it is necessary to construct additional transverse walls. The calculation of such structures is beyond the scope of this material. You can, of course, rely on intuition and “blind” everything by eye, but in critical cases this is unacceptable. It is better to take the advice of specialists.

A wall with buttresses lasts a long time

What to use for decoration?

Retaining walls made of natural stone usually do not require additional decoration. Sometimes the seams between the stones are tinted with paint, making the stones more expressive. Of course, any wall can be decorated with plants.

The option made of beautiful clinker bricks does not require finishing for obvious reasons. Ordinary brick can simply be painted with water-based paint for outdoor use. If you take the time to paint individual bricks with different colors, you can get a colorful design. Using brick facing materials is a risky business. The cladding will trap moisture in the wall, which will accelerate not only the peeling of the coating, but also the destruction of the brick.

A nondescript concrete wall can be lined with artificial stone

The wall is cast from concrete and trimmed with stone

It is also most convenient to simply paint walls made of concrete and blocks. For good adhesion of the coating, the wall surface must be cleaned and primed. Of course, such structures can be decorated with tiles or natural stone. However, the presence of moisture on the other side of the wall increases the risk of peeling of the coating. If you nevertheless decide on this option, the work must be done with high quality.

In this case, you need to start by fastening the metal mesh to the wall with self-tapping screws. Then the solution is applied, and only after it has dried, the lining is carried out. Laying must be done using tile adhesive, without leaving any voids for destructive moisture.

The most effective way to finish walls made of concrete and blocks is to use metal profiles and plastic panels. It is better to fasten the panels to a frame made of galvanized profile. There is a huge range of color and texture solutions for these materials. From these, you should choose an option that is consistent with the surrounding buildings and landscape.

Owners of plots with a large difference in height know firsthand how difficult it can be to organize a garden or vegetable garden on a slope. The best solution to the problem is retaining walls, and today we will look at a lot of interesting ideas, what they can be built from and how to transform the site.

If the entire plot or part of it is located on the slope of a hill or ravine, then it is difficult to use the land with maximum efficiency for growing vegetables or herbs - any cultivation of the land leads to a gradual sliding of the soil, only exacerbating the problem. The solution in this case is very simple - retaining walls distributed along the entire site. It is enough to divide the area into segments and build low walls, so that in each one you can level the soil in a horizontal plane without fear of it sliding or washing away. The entire plot will turn into a huge staircase, on each step of which you can organize neat beds or plant shrubs and trees.

There are many options for exactly how to build a retaining wall. Not only their practicality and durability, but also their appearance, which should never be forgotten, depends on the materials and design used. It is quite logical to perceive retaining walls as the main component of landscape design. This is an excellent way not only to cope with the problem of soil erosion, but also to very effectively zone the site, allocating space for both a garden bed and a recreation area.

The method of execution of the retaining wall will certainly affect how the entire site will look, so the choice of materials and design should be approached with the same responsibility as the appearance of the facade of the house. It will be much easier to choose the right option for yourself if you first familiarize yourself with a large number of ready-made solutions, evaluate their attractiveness and practicality, and also compare them with your ideas and general idea of ​​what the site should ultimately look like.

Gabion

Spectacular and massive retaining walls, gabions are three-dimensional structures consisting of steel mesh and stones. The mesh forms the outer frame of the gabion. Filling with large stones or pebbles gives the structure massiveness and reliability.

Retaining walls made of wooden sleepers

Wooden railway sleepers are processed and impregnated with a number of substances that can protect the wood from rotting and even exposure to open flames. This is an extremely durable material that is excellent for constructing retaining walls on a sloping area.

Stone retaining walls

Steel retaining walls

Retaining walls made of corrugated sheets

Profiled steel sheet can withstand heavy loads, including significant soil pressure. Retaining walls made of corrugated sheets are no less reliable than stone or wooden ones, but they are much easier to install.

The development of a plot of land on difficult terrain requires the construction of reinforcing structures. They will help set up a garden on slopes, prevent soil collapses near the building and become a decorative decoration for the yard. Using retaining walls in landscape design, you can turn steep slopes into a landscaped terrace system. The site is divided into zones with straight ledges in the form of steps. Different materials are used to build the structure, but in order for them to cope 100% with their task, it is necessary to follow accurate calculations and a number of rules, which we will talk about today.

Retaining structures are conventionally divided into two types based on functionality:

• decorative walls perform the function of architectural decoration of the yard, being an element of landscape design. They are installed on flat or slightly sloping land plots;
• reinforcement structures are used in landscaping terraces on natural slopes. The decorative functions of buildings fade into the background. Their main task is to retain the soil of steep slopes, increasing the usable area for planting trees and plants.

Land planning practice shows that mandatory construction of walls is required on a ground slope of more than 8%. Construction is especially important in areas located near ravines and reservoirs. They will strengthen the slopes, preventing the soil from sliding from rain and melt water.

Basic elements of retaining structures

Decorative and reinforcing walls differ from each other. Each of them plays its own role, but they all have three main components:

• the underground base of the wall is the foundation. It is he who bears the brunt of the ground pressure;
• ground structure - wall body. The inner surface is in contact with the ground along the entire perimeter of the fenced hill. The flat or oblique front side of the wall performs decorative functions of decorating the landscape;
• protective structures - drainage and drainage. Communications help remove moisture from the soil. Their presence is mandatory, since the accumulation of water behind the inner surface of the wall can destroy it.

Factors influencing the stability of a structure

It is better to trust the construction of the wall to specialists, as it is a complex engineering structure. Having construction skills, you can build a structure yourself, the main thing is to take into account the main factors influencing it:

• installation of the structure must be done on stable soil: sandy loam, clay, crushed stone and others;
• the stability of the structure depends on the level of soil freezing, which should be no more than 150 cm from the ground surface;
• the minimum occurrence of groundwater should be at a depth of 1 m. The best indicator of the occurrence of water is 1.5 m;
• the ground part of a self-built wall should not exceed 1.4 m. Higher structures should be equipped by professionals, as complex calculations are required.

Increasing wall stability

When designing a retaining wall, it is necessary not only to pay attention to strength, but also to ensure resistance to overturning or moving from place. These indicators are achieved by carrying out the following activities:

• the inner side of the wall is built at an angle towards the earth embankment to reduce the pressure on it;
• uneven edges on the inside of the wall also reduce soil pressure. It is possible to build such edges in a concrete or reinforced concrete structure at the pouring stage. To do this, the wooden formwork of each layer poured with concrete is shifted 10 cm relative to each other. After the concrete has hardened, small chips are made on it. Brick or stone walls are laid with projections;
• be sure to arrange drainage;
• a built console on the outside of the wall will ensure its stability. This structure looks like a protrusion from the foundation;
• The lateral pressure of the wall is affected by the specific gravity of the backfill soil. Hollow granules of polystyrene foam insulation will help reduce pressure. They are added to the soil when filling the inner side of the wall;
• Insulation boards installed on the inside of the wall reduce the pressure. They are made from furniture filler or soil loosening material used in agriculture;
• The unloading area gives a good result. It is built in the central part of the wall from the inside. This protrusion uses the vertical forces of the soil above it, directing them into work that increases the stability of the structure.

Retaining wall with unloading area. 1-wall, 2-unloading area

Underground part - foundation

A wall more than 30 cm high requires the construction of a foundation. The higher the index of softness and instability of the soil, the deeper the foundation should be laid. The optimal proportions of the depth of the base and the height of the ground part, depending on the soil, look like this:

• the depth of the base in relation to the height of the above-ground part of the wall on dense soil is 1/4;
• for medium loose soil – 1/3;
• the rate on loose and soft soil is 1/2.

The base is filled with clay or cement mortar. Crushed stone, gravel, and pieces of concrete are used as additives.

Drainage and waterproofing

To extend the service life of the structure, it is necessary to take care of waterproofing and water drainage. Waterproofing is done with bitumen mastic, covering the inside of the wall. For reliability, you can attach several layers of roofing material. Next, they begin to construct the drainage system. There are three types:

• the transverse view consists of holes with a diameter of 10 cm left during the construction of the wall in every second or third row of masonry. It is also possible to punch holes in the finished wall, after which pieces of pipe are inserted into them. Through holes made at a slope, water will flow outside the site;
• The design of the longitudinal drainage system consists of a perforated pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm laid underground. It is placed along the wall at a level with the base. The top of the pipe is wrapped with geotextile tape. Seeping through the geotextile, water enters the pipe through the holes and is discharged into the drainage well;
• combined drainage consists of both transverse and longitudinal views.

To prevent water damage to the above-ground part of the wall, a canopy or cornice block is installed on top at a slope.

After the communications have been arranged, they begin to fill the gap between the supporting wall and the slope. Backfilling is carried out in layers, compacting each of them. Construction waste of brick, stone, coarse sand, and gravel are well suited for the first layers. The top layer is covered with plant soil. In order for the structure to gain strength, it is left without load for a couple of weeks. Only then can you begin to green the terraces by planting vegetation.

Brick wall

A brick retaining wall is not easy to construct, but it cannot be called complex either. The masonry is carried out as in conventional construction, only less thick. A wall 50-80 cm high is laid out in half a brick. The structure, 1 m high, is built in brick. Large walls with a height of more than 1 m are laid out in 1.5 bricks. The main rule for constructing a brick wall is to maintain a ratio of length to thickness of 1/3. If the wall is not built of decorative brick, its front side is decorated with facing material.

Stone wall

The construction of a stone structure is carried out in two ways:

• dry stone laying involves bonding it with garden soil. Such joints are planted with ornamental plants;
• laying stone with cement mortar is more durable.

Natural stone wall

The best option for a retaining wall is to use durable stone: granite, basalt and other types. The large weight of the stone requires laying a foundation under it. Its width should be three times the width of the wall. For low structures, a base made of large stone is sufficient. If the structure is large, the base must be concreted.

A trench is dug 10 cm wider than the future foundation. The bottom is covered with a 30 cm layer of a mixture of sand and gravel. The trench is filled with concrete with the addition of small stones. Its height should be 15 cm below ground level. After the base hardens, laying out the stone begins.

Tire support

A wall made of car tires is laid out in steps in relation to the slope. Tires are secured using piles, placing them on top. The inner edges of the first row of tires on the side of the slope rest against the walls of the piles. The opposite edge of the upper row of tires is fixed with clamps to the body of the piles from the inner diameter side. The intermediate rows of tires are mounted completely on piles and secured. The inside of the tire is covered with crushed stone or stone.

Sheet pile support

The structure of the sheet pile wall is a continuous structure. The material can be different: plastic, wood, metal or reinforced concrete. The side walls of the sheet piles are equipped with a front and rear connection lock. First, a sheet piling with a front lock is driven into the ground. The next one is driven in with the rear lock. Next, they are connected to each other with a lock, which is lubricated with a binder for density. Additionally, it prevents longitudinal displacement of the sheet piles relative to each other.

Reinforced soil support

A good alternative to stone and wooden structures is reinforced soil support. The construction of the structure is based on layer-by-layer wrapping of soil in a geotextile fabric. Currently, reinforced soil support is constructed from woven geogrids filled with earth or crushed stone. To reduce wall displacement, additional metal anchors are installed. The top of the structure is covered with slabs.

Concrete wall

A monolithic concrete wall requires the installation of formwork. First, they dig a trench and fill the bottom with crushed stone. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top and they begin to build formwork from thick boards around the perimeter of the trench. Next comes layer-by-layer pouring of concrete. After the previous layer has hardened, the formwork is raised up to fill the next layer. The process is repeated until the desired height is reached.

Wooden wall

It is better to make a wooden support from logs with a diameter of 12-18 cm. The length of the logs depends on the height of the wall plus 50 cm going into the ground. The structure of the structure is quite simple:

• in a trench 50 cm deep, a wall is made from vertically installed logs;
• The logs are fastened together with wire and nails;
• the trench is filled with concrete;
• the inside of the logs, which will be in the ground, is treated with machine oil or bitumen.

Similarly, a fence is made from logs - a support. The only difference is that the installation of logs occurs while maintaining the interval. Next, thinner logs are driven tightly into the gap and concreted into the trench.

When deciding on the type of retaining wall, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the design and design preferences. After completion of construction, the architectural structure will decorate the landscape of the land plot.

In contact with

Use in landscape design retaining walls allows you not only to solve problems with elevation changes, but also to benefit from a completely flat area. Often summer residents you have to carry out construction and plant a garden in an inconvenient territory, because under country houses Allotments are usually allocated to the slopes of hills and ravines, where growing plants is difficult. The arrangement of such a site requires special skills, additional material and labor costs. But it is precisely difficult cases that allow you to show your imagination and turn your garden into a real paradise.

LAND ON A SLOPE

When developing a site on a slope, the issue of vertical planning must be resolved first. The set of necessary measures to strengthen the slope directly depends on the magnitude of the slope.

With small and medium slopes - up to 8% - you can strengthen the slope with plants, for example, sod or plant ground covers: different types of sedum, European hoofweed, ivy bud, periwinkle, as well as shrubs that produce root shoots or take root in places where branches come into contact with the soil - these are cotoneaster and Dammera cotoneasters and five-leaf maiden grapes. But this method is still not suitable for setting up a vegetable garden.

With slopes above average (from 8% to 15%), it is better for site owners to terracing the slope, that is, organize horizontal platforms - terraces separated by retaining walls. This will help protect the land from soil erosion and prevent its erosion, will make it possible and convenient to place various necessary buildings, as well as planting plants and further caring for them. It is often necessary to raise a site using the construction of retaining walls in case of close groundwater or, conversely, on poor sandy or rocky slopes to create a raised garden on imported soil.

PLANNING TERRACES

To develop a terracing plan, first, using special construction instruments (geodetic survey), the elevation difference on the site is determined - the lower and upper points, as well as the marks of the territories adjacent to the site. Once it becomes clear what the height difference is, you can decide how many terraces to divide the space into. Typically, the average height of a retaining wall is taken from 40-50 cm to 1-1.2 m. Higher walls require serious construction preparation and entail increased costs: a strong foundation, reinforcement, concreting, etc.

For example, if the height difference on a plot is about 1.5 m, it can be divided into 3 terraces separated by retaining walls 50 cm high. You should not start building retaining walls closer than 3-5 m from the house, that is, it is advisable to place a residential building on the main terrace with a mark of 0.00. Outbuildings and other objects - gazebo, swimming pool, garden and vegetable garden, children's playground, etc. - can be placed on terraces with marks of +0.50, +1.00 or -0.50, -1.00, etc. During vertical planning, pay special attention to the drainage of storm and melt water from buildings, trying to ensure that the house is located at a higher point.

ORGANIZATION OPTIONS

In practice, retaining walls are built from the following materials: a concrete wall finished with decorative material (brick, stone, wood, etc.); wall on a concrete foundation followed by masonry made of stone, fastened with cement mortar; a wall made of ready-made concrete blocks, which are produced in a wide range of colors, sizes and patterns, and a retaining wall laid using the dry masonry method, when stones are tightly laid without the use of cement mortar.

The latter method is more labor-intensive and requires careful selection of stones and skilled installation. For the construction of a dry wall, slate, sandstone, tiled limestone, and granite are most suitable. It is desirable that the finishing material for retaining walls in the garden be combined with the finishing of the house and other structures, paving and paths.

WALL WITH COVERING

Most often, retaining walls are built from concrete followed by finishing with decorative stone. They look very attractive, are durable and fit well into the landscape. To minimize the pressure from swelling of the soil on the wall in winter, first arrange a sand and gravel cushion under the base of the wall, which, depending on the soil and the height of the wall itself, can be from 20 to 60 cm.

For a wall whose height does not exceed 60 cm, a cushion of crushed stone 20-30 cm thick and a strip foundation 50 cm is sufficient. On strong clay soils, the thickness of the foundation should be 1/l, on moderately loose soils - 1/3, on sandy or wet soils - not less than y2 wall height. If the wall is higher than 1 m, the depth of the foundation must be no less than the depth of soil freezing, otherwise deformation of the structure is inevitable. If the wall height exceeds 1.5 m, it is better to entrust the calculations to specialists.

A concrete strip foundation is poured onto the sand and gravel bed using wooden formwork. For the reliability of the structure, especially in the case of significant differences in height, it is recommended to reinforce the foundations. If the soil is mobile, groundwater is close to the ground (1-1.5 m from the soil surface), and there is a large difference in height (more than 1.5 m), then the retaining wall should be buried at a rate 1.5 times greater than its width. Then they make a concrete wall, shoot a metal mesh and line it with stone. All materials are attached to cement mortar or construction adhesives. For greater stability and resistance to soil pressure, the vertical masonry should have a slight slope towards the slope.

WE ORGANIZE DRAINAGE

To prevent water from accumulating at the base of the wall, drainage is arranged along the entire wall from crushed stone, pebbles, broken brick or coarse sand with a thickness of 70-100 mm, and during construction or concreting, pipes with a diameter of about 5 cm are laid every 1-3 m with an outlet beyond the terrace into the storm drain.

For longitudinal drainage, a corrugated drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile or perforated ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100-150 mm is laid along the wall at the foundation level. If the site is equipped with automatic watering or is located in a zone of constant humidity, as well as in the case of the construction of raised flower beds that are intensively watered, it is better to additionally waterproof them from the inside to extend the service life of the structures.

Be sure to waterproof walls made of brick, wood, rubble concrete, metal and other materials susceptible to water corrosion. As waterproofing, roofing felt, roofing felt (in 1-2 layers), gluing over hot bitumen mastic, or synthetic waterproofing agents are used. On dry sandy soils, it is enough to coat the surface with hot mastic or bitumen (preferably in 2 layers).

To make the site look interesting and attractive, try not to plan long, straight and too high retaining walls that cut the entire length of the site. Several terraces of different heights, broken by platforms, stairs, niches and cascades, look more interesting.

Landscaping scheme for a staircase with retaining walls...

To visually soften the stone walls and fit them into the landscape, plant ornamental shrubs, conifers and perennials above and below them, which will form a beautiful cascade
fall down: horizontal juniper, Dummer cotoneaster, perennial vines, ground cover roses, annual and perennial flowers.

3… OPTIONS FOR A RETAINING WALL

RUBBLE WALL ON CEMENT MORTAR

1-Wall made of rubble with cement mortar. 2-Drainage layer of crushed stone. 3-Drainage pipe. 4-Concrete foundation. 5- Gravel bed.

CONCRETE WALL WITH COVERING

1-Wall made of monolithic concrete. 2- Facing. 3-Drainage layer of crushed stone. 4-Drainage pipe. 5-Pipe for draining rainwater. 6-Concrete foundation. 7-Gravel pillow