Art Deco style jewelry. The main signs and features of the art deco style in clothing Rings in the art deco style

Translated from French, “art deco” means “decorative art”. The Art Deco style, or as it is also called - Art Deco, received its name when an exhibition of decorative and applied arts was held in Paris in 1925. When and how did this style originate? And in general, what does it represent in jewelry?

Already at the very beginning of the 20th century, jewelers began to abandon the winding lines of Art Nouveau and turn to the search for new means of expression. In late modernity, the geometric lines inherent in Art Deco were already discovered, but everything was interrupted by the First World War, after the end of which people tried to find new ideals with even greater desire, because in addition to destruction and human casualties, there was disappointment in the values of the past.

A new woman appeared, who inspired poets and artists, including jewelry artists. It was at this time that Louis Cartier sketched his first jewelry in a new direction.

Art Deco absorbed simplicity and luxury, a pure and bright play of stones, stylistic quests, including cubism, modernism, surrealism, neoclassicism and the ethnic features of Ancient Greece, Egypt, Africa, and the East.

Jewelers, like all art sculptors, always listen sensitively to the mood in society. How can we help forget the horrors of war and bring joy to people? It was at that time that the eclecticism of style trends made Art Deco an innovative style.

And so, the designers of jewelry houses proposed new forms, which became geometric, linear design, symmetrical composition, color contrasts and a special cut of precious stones, which acquired clearer lines; triangular, trapezoidal and emerald were more common.

At first, jewelers used inexpensive materials: enamel, chrome, glass, plastic and preferred bright colors. However, post-war society sought to create around itself the illusion of luxury and prosperity. And first of all, this could be done by the queens of the Hollywood silver screen. Their bracelets and necklaces sparkled with diamonds from the screens.

During the Art Deco era, platinum became a cult metal; it was this noble metal that came into fashion. And along with it, white gold, silver, steel and even aluminum gained popularity. In addition to metals, jewelers often used exotic materials - ivory, crocodile and shark skin, as well as rare woods. We used pure white mother-of-pearl, white diamonds and black onyx...

The merit of the Art Deco style is its bold combination in one piece of jewelry of precious stones with rhinestones, natural pearls with artificial ones.

The most common decoration technique was metal enameling and unusual cutting. The forms of jewelry in the Art Deco style are clear geometry and strict symmetry, the arrangement of elements with a certain rhythm of alternation.

The leading motives in the design of jewelry, in addition to geometry, were the images and scenery of S. Diaghilev’s Russian Ballet, the culture of different countries and eras - Ancient Egypt, China, Japan, India, Ancient Greece, Africa, objects of flora and fauna.

The most picturesque jewelry includes a brooch-tassel, long earrings, including earrings-tassels that adorned the bobbed heads of beauties, heavy belts, bracelets worn not only on the wrist, but also on the forearm, a headband (bandeau), decorated with rhinestones, pearls, and for some, diamonds, a cocktail ring, a collar necklace, a necklace and bracelet in the shape of a snake, a ring and bracelet in the shape of a panther...

During the Art Deco period, precious lighters and cigarette holders also came into fashion, in which black and white components also alternated.

Wristwatches gained exceptional popularity, in the creation of which jewelers showed extraordinary imagination. The watches had a variety of shapes, rich decoration, originality and grace. The watch case and bracelets were decorated with precious stones.

One of the most famous jewelers of that time was Georges Fouquet and his son. The Parisian jeweler Raymond Templier also created interesting artistic solutions. A special place in his work is occupied by jewelry with strict geometric elements decorated with bright enamel, with spectacular color contrast.

The history of the House of Cartier clearly illustrates the development of the Art Deco style. Jewelry works of the 20-30s by Louis Cartier demonstrate the main stages in the development of the new style. Initially, Cartier used more circle or segment, believing that these geometric shapes were suitable for women's jewelry. Then he started using square and rectangle.

The jeweler decorated his jewelry with diamonds in combination with other stones and enamel. His jewelry pieces played with bright colors and exquisite colors, for example, he added luxurious diamonds to products made from onyx, rock crystal and jade, coral and mother-of-pearl. Gradually, Cartier jewelers abandoned bright colors and began to use white. This is how the style “white art deco” appeared.

Jewelry with strict geometric shapes in a contrasting combination of white and black colors - white platinum and diamonds with black onyx or black enamel - were magnificent. It was on the basis of this color contrast that a unique motif was created, called “panther skin”.

Subsequently, the motif was used to create brooches in the shape of panthers, as well as to decorate hair decorations and wristwatches. But, nevertheless, it was difficult to completely refuse the bright colors of emerald, rubies, sapphires, even in “white art deco”. Therefore, Cartier loved to create brooches - “vases of fruit”. Multi-colored jewels in the tutti frutti style became famous Cartier jewelry.

After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, there was a surge of interest in Egyptian jewelry; among Cartier’s jewelry were spectacular pendants made of jade plates with diamonds and rubies, the famous “scarab” brooch made of smoky quartz, earthenware, decorated with diamonds.

Brightness and color in jewelry increased even more in 1929 and beyond, because these were the years when purchasing power was lost in all areas of life, and in order to attract attention and survive in difficult times, the brightest objects of jewelry were created. Jade, topaz, zircon, coral, and aquamarine have become popular.

The Art Deco style can be called finally formed by the beginning of the 20s, and in 1925 it received final recognition, and therefore it was at an exhibition held in Paris in 1925 that the style received its name.

The exhibition featured jewelry works by Fouquet, Templier, Sandoz, Boucheron, Van Cleef, Cartier, Mauboussin and many other French jewelers. The success of the jewelers was amazing. Parisian jeweler Georges Mauboussin received a gold medal for Art Deco jewelry.

The visitors' admiration knew no bounds. Everyone admired the necklaces created by Mauboussin, in which diamonds in a platinum frame alternated with beautiful pearls, a jadeite ring, pendants in the form of flower vases and fountains. After the exhibition, the Mauboussin company became famous.

Not only the works of jewelry by Cartier and Mauboussin glorified the Art Deco style; thanks to the jewelers Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels, the Art Deco style became internationally recognized as a synonym for luxury and admiration. In those years, many things changed in people’s lives, new technologies were developed, new materials were searched for, and research was carried out in science and technology.

It was a century of achievements in all spheres of human activity and life. All this was reflected in the activities of jewelry art. At Van Cleef & Arpels, jewelers invented a new type of setting for precious stones - invisible setting. The stones were cut in such a way that they could be installed close to each other, thus the base metal was completely covered with “stone pavement”. This made it possible to create the most excellent jewelry.

Diamond clip brooches, sautoirs, and elegant bracelets with clear ornamental patterns made of precious stones were in demand in the jewelry markets. Brooches-tassels and beads made of natural stones came into fashion. Particularly popular, thanks to the fashion for short haircuts, were long cascading earrings and large clip-on earrings that covered the earlobe.

Art historians believe that the Art Deco style dominated the art world for only about two decades, from World War I to World War II. But something else is important - many of the techniques and achievements in jewelry technology developed during Art Deco turned out to be so universal that master jewelers felt the influence of this style for a long time in subsequent generations.

In modern fashion, the Art Deco style is again popular. It is chosen by self-confident women who prefer luxury and at the same time aristocratic restraint.

For many centuries of its existence, decorative products intended to decorate the appearance have gone through various stages of development, changing more than once. There were many reasons for such changes. First of all, this is the symbolic meaning that was invested in each individual product. An important role was also played by materials that were in abundance at one or another historical stage of human development. And finally, the final factor in the production of jewelry was fashion, which passed from one country to another, setting the tone and style for many years, and sometimes decades. Naturally, it is impossible to cover all styles of jewelry that have ever existed and exist today. But we will try to give you an idea and the distinctive features of those that take place in the Sunlight Brilliant collections.

Style "Animalistic"

Today, jewelry depicting birds, animals, fish, and mythical creatures is becoming increasingly popular - the so-called “animalistic” style. No modern fashionista can pass by a blouse with a spectacular leopard print or leggings with imitation snake scales, a cozy sweatshirt with a picture of a cute panda, or an original top with a fish skeleton pattern. However, it is not only the light industry that has brought together these current trends. In the “precious beauty” industry, such motifs have long appeared in all the major jewelry houses that are trendsetters.

In such products, as the name already implies, animal and plant themes predominate - birds, animals, fish, as well as mythical creatures. Today they are especially popular, and in the SL collection they are presented in a wide variety of species - from funny penguins to cute kittens.

Art Deco style

We can find animal motifs in another, no less popular today style - Art Deco. As in the spirit of animalism, large rings with cats, leopards, frogs, butterflies, and flowers are one of the favorite themes of creative designers. However, in this case, representatives of the fauna are just one of the points of the jewelry style, which has absorbed many distinctive features and interesting samples. If you try to characterize it in a few words, then, first of all, it is necessary to name such definitions as simplicity and luxury, geometry and linearity, stylization and sophistication.

We owe the appearance of Art Deco to the 20-30s of the 20th century, when so-called chandelier earrings, multi-tiered necklaces made of pearls or chains, brooches in the form of animals and plants were in fashion.

Modern fashionistas can easily combine such “historical” items with both a cocktail outfit and a regular plain T-shirt. The image will look advantageous in both cases.

This established jewelry style is characterized by a combination of traditionalism and modernity in decoration. Classic pearl necklaces juxtapose with unusual chandelier earrings and large rings with natural motifs. And everyone’s favorite bracelets in the shape of snake scales add the finishing touch to this original collection.

Style "Art Nouveau" ("Modern")

The history of jewelry has introduced into the range of modern jewelry such an unusual and elegant style as “Art Nouveau”, or in the English version - “Modern”. Appearing at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, it absorbed all the innovative ideas of that era. The distinctive features of the direction can be considered a combination of heterogeneous materials, precious and ornamental, and the predominance of smooth elongated forms, which are expressed in natural and plant motifs.

Today, many designers are trying to convey “Spanish motifs” in their works, because the Art Nouveau style amazes with its truly refined expressiveness and the beauty of natural forms. The interweaving of leaves and branches of trees, blooming flowers and fluttering butterflies - all this is a combination of innovative ideas at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, organically transferred into modern jewelry fashion. The harmony of nature, conveyed through bright enamel or exquisite pearl jewelry. Spanish motifs and elegance of flowing forms are the essence of the Modern style.

Avangard style

Moving on to the style of the second half of the 20th century, it is impossible not to mention such a direction in the jewelry industry as “Avant-garde”. Brightness, eye-catching decor, unexpected combinations of materials and processing methods, unusual and flexible designs, the predominance of graphism - this is how such an unusual and original style seems to us.

When creating products of this type, one golden rule applies: “No rules!” Everything depends solely on the designer’s imagination and his courage in creative decisions. Through jewelry, avant-garde jewelry artists convey their individual vision of the world, sometimes quite extraordinary.

Nothing banal or traditional - the more the designer “surprises” us, the better. Jewelry may contain several bright and seemingly incompatible colors. The design of products can be completely asymmetrical and not smooth - on the contrary, geometric shapes with sharp angles are welcome here.

The combination of dissimilar materials (precious metal and genuine leather), catchy shapes and bright solutions - this is the whole essence of the avant-garde trend in the jewelry industry. The second half of the 20th century was marked by new unusual solutions. Geometric shapes with sharp angles, the combination of dissimilar materials in one decoration, catchy and bright forms - all this is the Avant-Garde style.

Gothic style

The appearance in the Middle Ages of such an architectural movement as “Gothic” could not but cause an echo in the applied fine arts, including jewelry. The jewelry of that time was distinguished by its massiveness, relief and, as a rule, carried a certain symbolic content characteristic of the cultural traditions of the Middle Ages.

Times have changed, but “Gothic” as a phenomenon continues to exist, and today it has a sufficient number of interpretations. An average person unenlightened in jewelry may believe that the concept of Gothic comes down to a youth subculture with characteristic dark clothes, bleached skin and peculiar symbols. However, this is not quite true.

Nowadays, the jewelry industry offers several equal interpretations of this phenomenon, each of which has a certain unique style. Well, let's try to figure it out and define some substyles for ourselves.

"Cold" contrast

Such products are most often made of white gold or platinum, thereby symbolizing death and restraint. Stones of contrasting colors are used as inserts - rubies, sapphires, black diamonds. It’s easy to guess what such a color palette might mean: scarlet - blood, black and dark blue - darkness, darkness.

Symbolic stylization

Perhaps this stylistic direction can be considered a clear demonstration of what the Gothic style is in the minds of most people. Large skulls, crosses, subcultural paraphernalia - this is exactly how many designers see gothic.

Renaissance

Despite the fact that modern “Goths” evoke many associations with darkness, rigidity and occult rituals, in the original historical understanding, Gothic jewelry style is a combination of thin lace lines, often complemented by pearl inserts. Like English Gothic cathedrals, characterized by pointed arches and sharp corners, these decorations convey mystery not through rudeness, but, on the contrary, through grace.

Subcultural gothic

This subgroup includes precisely those products that we most often see on “Goths” and “Gothess” - studded jewelry, massive rings, heraldic amulets. This can be considered a "classic" of modern Gothic.

Vampire style

And finally, the substyle, which is a certain combination of the historical understanding of Gothic and its modern interpretation. On the one hand, this is the classic semantic content of each product (images of spiders, bats, attributes of the afterlife), on the other hand, there is a modern bias towards the “game of contrasts”, as is the case with the first substyle:

So, having examined some trends in the modern Gothic style, we can come to one conclusion - despite the change of generations, the philosophical conflict of earthly and afterlife, “light” and “dark” forces remains relevant. And, as long as a person continues to try to comprehend the meaning of earthly existence, the motives of death will be present in art in all its manifestations. There are several main directions of this style, which, in fact, can differ radically from each other. However, it is necessary to emphasize their inevitable similarity - the use of predominantly white gold and bright precious inserts creating a spectacular contrast. The role of the symbolism of jewelry, which carries special hidden meanings - crosses, skulls, snakes, hearts - is also important here. Graceful mystery and aggressive attitude - yes, yes, it’s all about gothic.

Classic style

No jewelry option can be more advantageous than. This model can be paired with both a formal ladies' suit and a modern youth outfit - the main thing is not to forget about the golden rule of any woman: “Know your limits!” If your image already has enough bright accents, then it is not at all necessary to make yourself look like a Christmas tree - choose the color palette of your wardrobe with taste.

Classic style implies two main subsections. The first is sophisticated, delicate jewelry in a rather laconic, but at the same time, elegant style. The insert can be either diamonds, pearls, or sparkling cubic zirconia, which are in no way inferior in radiance to their precious counterparts:

Art Deco

Already in the first decade of the 20th century, jewelers gradually began to abandon the sophisticated forms and sinuous lines of Art Nouveau. Under the influence of the turbulent processes taking place at that time in literature, painting, and architecture, jewelers also turned to the search for new means of expression, which was reflected in the geometric lines of late modernity. However, this search was interrupted by the First World War, which not only claimed many lives and left untold destruction, but also led to disillusionment with the values of the past and gave rise to an uncontrollable desire to find new ideals.

Jewelers, always sensitive to the mood in society, quickly realized that their art could bring people joy and help them forget about the horrors of war. But to achieve this it was necessary to offer fundamentally new products. Inspired by the artistic ideas of art of the early 20th century, which were embodied in the paintings of cubists and abstractionists, Russian Suprematists and Italian futurists, and finally, in the bright colors of the costumes and decorations of the ballet performances of Sergei Diaghilev’s “Russian Seasons”, jewelers, like their fellow artists - architects and decorative artists who worked on interior design finally abandoned the fancifully curving lines and faded coloring of Art Nouveau. In search of new means of expression, they turned to clear geometric forms, with a clear construction of symmetrical compositions, in which beautifully cut precious stones played a dominant role.

The style of the works they created would later be called Art Deco. It combined simplicity and luxury, clarity of geometric designs and a bright play of sparkling stones. This style, which was formed in France by the early 1920s, soon conquered the United States and then most European countries, subordinating almost all types of applied art, including costume, to its artistic principles.

The new fashion completely fell under the power of pure geometry, and the women's suit, whose cut resembled a shirt, began to be defined by strict constructiveness. New names have appeared among fashion creators. In 1920, avant-garde artist Sonia Delaunay opened a fashion salon in Paris, decorating her models with bright geometric patterns. In the 1930s, a new star sparkled on the fashion horizon - Coco Chanel, who paid great attention to jewelry accessories, and soon began designing jewelry herself. New times have given rise to a new ideal of women. She became independent and independent, an equal partner with a man. Brave Parisians, recognized as trendsetters, soon after the war first of all cut their hair, then shortened their skirts and put on sleeveless dresses. An original fashion trend emerged, focused on half-girlish, half-boyish figures - the so-called “garçon” fashion. True, in the 1930s, the dress line softened somewhat, luxury fashion became more feminine, and ideas about beauty were embodied in the images of Hollywood movie stars. But in both of these decades, women's costume opened up wide possibilities for the imagination of jewelers.

From left to right
Chanel (brand), Clips and ring, Circa 1935, Emeralds, rubies, gold
Tiffany and Co (firm), Brooch in the form of flowers, Diamonds, sapphires

Among the most picturesque decorations, undoubtedly, was the “tassel brooch” that decorated the open collar of an evening dress; in daytime, more modest, toilets, it was replaced by an unusually long string of artificial pearls or beads made of stones. Long earrings came into fashion, effectively decorating cropped heads, heavy belts and bracelets, which were often worn not only on the wrist, but also on the forearm. A new type of jewelry appeared - a two-piece brooch with a clip lock; It was used to pin fashionable truacarts. Wristwatches gained exceptional popularity during this period; when creating them, jewelers showed amazing imagination. The watches were distinguished by their variety of shapes, richness of decoration and elegance. The body and bracelets were decorated with precious stones.

The pioneers of a new direction in jewelry art were French masters. Among them was one of the most famous jewelers in Paris, Georges Fouquet, who in the Art Nouveau era was called “second after Lalique.” In one of his most perfect works of the early 1920s, in a round pendant with symmetrical pendants, all the features of the new style are already visible - the clear geometry of the form and ornamental structure of the decor, the bold mixture of expensive materials: diamonds, emeralds, lapis lazuli and rock crystal .

Fouquet, Georges
From left to right
Sketch of a pendant depicting a Chinese mask
Corsage brooch "Chinese mask" (Circa 1920 - 1925, Enamel, onyx, jadeite, diamonds)
Pendant (1923 - 24, Crystal, jade, lapis lazuli, diamonds, calibrated emeralds, platinum)

Even more innovative were the experiments of his son Jean Fouquet: he created a series of jewelry that was completely different from anything that had been done before. Collections in Paris and New York contain his ivory brooch and bracelet, composed of round yellow gold links, which are decorated with pyramids of black onyx and circles of white gold. These unusual jewels were clearly created under the influence of the avant-garde searches of painters of the beginning of the century, and above all the Cubists. No less interesting are the platinum earrings of another Parisian jeweler - Raymond Templier; the ideas of constructivism are clearly felt in their construction. Templier decorated the strict geometric elements of his “precious designs” with bright enamel or Japanese varnish, achieving unusually effective color contrasts. However, these expressive and original works of both jewelers gave more of an impression of “self-sufficient” works of art than jewelry harmoniously connected with the human body and his costume. Perhaps, in this approach to the artistic design of jewelry, Jean Fouquet and Raymond Templier were almost a hundred years ahead of their time.

Fouquet, Jean
From left to right
Bracelet (White and yellow gold, onyx)
Brooch (1925 - 1929, Yellow and white gold, crystal, onyx, lacquer, diamonds)

Fouquet, Jean
From left to right
Necklace (1925 - 1930, Gold, platinum, silver, black lacquer, aquamarine)
Wrist bracelet (Circa 1930, Rock crystal, amethysts, moonstone, platinum)

In the 1920s, during the early days of what was sometimes called “jazz modern,” jewelers often used materials such as enamel, chrome, glass and plastic, and favored bright colors. But very soon they realized that the post-war “lost generation” needed the illusion of well-being that only gold, platinum and the most beautiful natural stones provided. Many people have already learned from their own bitter experience what a life-saving financial source jewelry can be in difficult times - moreover, they have been deprived of them for a long time.

Templier, Raymond
From left to right
Pendant (1925, Platinum, black enamel, rock crystal)
Brooch (Platinum, diamonds)

The jewelers of the House of Cartier understood this very well, having always been committed to using the most luxurious stones in jewelry. Even before the First World War, Louis Cartier was perhaps the first among jewelers to sense new trends in art and began to stylize his favorite motifs of various garlands, giving them a geometric character. His works of the 1920-1930s clearly demonstrate the main stages in the development of the new style.

At the first stage, Cartier gave preference to harmonious compositions and simple, clear forms. Initially it was a circle or a segment, since he believed that these were the geometric shapes most suitable for jewelry intended for a woman. Later he turned to other geometric shapes: square, rectangle, and less often rhombus. He decorated jewelry with a simple and clear silhouette, made of onyx, rock crystal, jade, coral or mother-of-pearl, with diamonds and other precious stones, subtly selecting their exquisite colors.

From left to right
Cartier (company) Pendant (1920 - 1930s, Onyx, diamonds, small pearls, tassels)
Cartier, Louis, Short necklace with pendants in the form of bows and “love” knots. Fragment (1930s, Diamonds)

But pretty soon the jewelers of the House of Cartier abandoned bright colors and initiated the emergence of the so-called “white art deco” style. The strict geometric shapes of their jewelry were enlivened by contrasting combinations of white platinum and diamonds with black onyx or black enamel. Based on this expressive optical play of black and white spots, a unique motif was created, called “panther skin”. This motif was used in the creation of original brooches in the form of panthers or hair decorations; it was also used in the design of wristwatches. The “White Art Deco” period, perhaps, turned out to be not only the most fruitful in the company’s activities, but also the most important for the formation of a new style as a whole.

However, Louis Cartier, even in the “white period,” did not abandon color, making brooches from emeralds, rubies and sapphires that reproduced “vases of fruit” or “baskets of flowers.” By the way, the motif of a basket with flowers was very typical for Art Deco style decor. He was approached not only by jewelers, but also by interior decorators and masters of other types of applied art. Thus, the most famous French cabinetmaker of that time, Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, loved to decorate his furniture with fashionable compositions in the form of stylized flower baskets.

From left to right
Cartier (company), Bracelet "Fruit Salad" (1928, Platinum, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, enamel)
Cartier, Louis, Pair of brooches (1920s, Diamonds, sapphires)

Multi-colored jewelry became especially popular after the advent of fashion for Indian jewelry. In addition, the stone market was saturated with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, cut in the shape of leaves, flowers, berries or balls. At the same time, the famous Cartier jewelry appeared in the “tutti frutti” style he invented; they were bright multi-color compositions of carved precious stones. After the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 and the subsequent surge of interest in Egypt, the company began producing colorful jewelry made in the "Egyptian style." Among them are spectacular pendants made of jade plates, decorated with diamonds and rubies, and the famous scarab brooch made of smoky quartz with blue faience wings set with diamonds. Jewelers especially often began to create bright decorative items after the crisis of 1929: this is how they tried to attract the attention of buyers and survive during this difficult time.

Cartier, Louis, From left to right Necklace from a set. Fragment (1930, Diamonds, sapphires)
Flower brooch (1920s, Platinum, yellow diamond, diamonds)

Thus, the history of the House of Cartier clearly illustrates the process of formation of the Art Deco style. It was finally formed by the early 1920s, and reached its apogee by the middle of the decade. The time of his triumph was the Exhibition of Decorative Arts and Modern Industry, held in 1925 in Paris. Actually, it was at this exhibition that the style received final recognition, and later its abbreviated name - “Art Deco” - became the name of the style.

The jewelers' exposition was housed in the luxurious Grand Palais building. Cartier exhibited in another pavilion of the exhibition (Elegance), teaming up with the famous fashion designers of that time - Bort, Lanvin and others, probably in order to once again emphasize the inextricable connection between jewelry and costume. The works of Fouquet, Sandoz, Templier, Boucheron, Cartier, Van Cleef, Mauboussin and other French jewelers presented at the exhibition were the completion of the searches of the previous period and symbolized the birth of the aesthetics of a new era.

The success of jewelers working in the Art Deco style was phenomenal. Formal recognition of the new style can be considered the fact that the highest award of the exhibition - the Gold Medal - was given to the Parisian jeweler Georges Mauboussin for jewelry in the Art Deco style. By that time, his products were already well known to jewelry lovers. The necklaces created by Mauboussin, in which diamonds set in a platinum frame alternated with beautiful pearls and decorated the central part - a jadeite ring - were distinguished by their amazing beauty and elegance and were the object of desire of many social beauties and Hollywood stars. His pendants in the form of stylized flower vases and fountains, decorated with carved emeralds, diamonds and enamel, became objects to be imitated and copied. All these decorations are made in the Art Deco style, and it was this style that made Mauboussin famous.

But the development of style did not stand still. He was born in the age of science and technology and was greatly influenced by its achievements. One of the jewelers who participated in the exhibition wrote that “polished steel, dull nickel, shadow and light, mechanics and geometry - all these are objects of our time. We see them and live with them every day. We are people of our era, and this is the basis of all our present and future creations...” It is not surprising that in order to achieve artistic expressiveness, jewelers made a lot of effort in searching for new materials and developing new technological techniques.

The greatest success was achieved by the company Van Cleef and Arpels. In 1935, Alfred Van Cleef and Julien Arpels managed to invent a new type of setting for precious stones - invisible setting. This method of fastening involves precision cutting of color-matched hard precious stones - diamonds, sapphires or rubies - into which grooves are machined, allowing the stones to be inserted close to each other and thus completely covering the metal with them, hiding the gold base. This technological technique allowed the masters of Van Cleef and Arpels - and subsequently other companies - to create a series of excellent jewelry in the Art Deco style. Perhaps, thanks to precisely such jewelry, as well as the works of Cartier, Boucheron, Mauboussin and other jewelers, the Art Deco style has become internationally recognized as a synonym for luxury and unique showiness.

Van Cleef and Arpel (firm)
From left to right
Flexible bracelet "Egyptian" (1924, Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, faceted and engraved onyx, "pave" and "rail" caste settings)
Flexible bracelet with Egyptian motifs. Fragment (Circa 1924, Diamonds, sapphires, rubies, small emeralds, platinum)

Van Cleef and Arpel (firm)
From left to right, Peony Brooch (1937, Platinum, yellow gold, baguette diamonds, carré and oval rubies, rail-caste and pave setting)
Necklace (1938, Platinum, baguette diamonds, cabochon emeralds, rail and socket setting)

Already in the 1930s, the Art Deco style began to determine the artistic design of not only unique jewelry made using high-cost stones - in this style, in many countries of Europe and America, less expensive things were created, intended for a fairly wide range of buyers. Diamond clip brooches and sautoirs were in demand on the jewelry market, and especially elegant bracelets, in which medium-sized diamonds emphasized the clear lines of flat ornamental patterns. Many jewelry companies produced such jewelry in large quantities, and it is no coincidence that today they can be seen in any large antique store or found in an auction catalogue.
It is generally accepted that the Art Deco style dominated the art world for a little over two decades, from the end of the First World War to the beginning of the Second. However, the figurative structure and techniques developed by the Art Deco masters turned out to be so viable and universal that its influence was felt by jewelers of all subsequent generations. And herein lies the amazing phenomenon of Art Deco.

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Art Deco style (approximate boundaries: 1920-1935)

Art Deco Jewelry reflect new trends after the First World War, the so-called Roaring Twenties, although individual jewelry in which traces of this style are clearly visible appeared many years earlier. Some early works art deco style continued the traditions of the "old" Art Nouveau and were characterized by figured and bright floral motifs, but this trend gradually faded away, moving away from smooth curved lines towards sharper lines and geometric shapes.

Art Deco style in the interior was also often used and popular. Although platinum and diamonds were used in large quantities, gemstones became much more common, including (in addition to ruby, emerald and sapphire) stones such as citrine, peridot, aquamarine and garnet. Large specimens of these stones were readily available and were typically cut in square or rectangular "emerald" styles. Also begins a period of extensive use of jade, coral and black onyx. Jewelry from the Art Deco period was characterized by geometric shapes for gemstones, as well as the proliferation of unusual shapes for diamonds (trapezoid, square, triangle and crescent), which were used as side stones with large diamonds or incorporated into elaborate geometric designs.

Another innovation of this period was the use of gems to create or extend geometric patterns. It is not uncommon to find rows of black onyx or small calibrated faceted gemstones—square or rectangular step-cut stones—to create interesting patterns within the context of a larger overall design. It seemed that few people were concerned about the natural or synthetic origin of the stones. Considering that finding rubies, sapphires and emeralds of perfectly identical shades was very difficult and time-consuming, only the best craftsmen insisted on using exclusively natural stones. Some manufacturers of less expensive jewelry used synthetic material instead.

Considering their small size and insignificant overall weight, the gem as a structural element was a very minor factor in determining the final cost of the jewelry, but this does not mean that they are natural, regardless of the authenticity of the diamonds or the use of platinum. Small calibrated stones found in many products from the Art Deco period, sold at auction as genuine, ended up being synthetic.

Tale of the period art deco style would be incomplete without mentioning the house of Cartier, the influence of whose jeweler-designers on the entire Art Deco movement was enormous. The leading master of the Cartier house at this time was Charles Jacquot. He is considered one of the founders of the Art Deco style. His works influenced not only the works of Cartier, but all other more or less significant jewelers of that time. His interest in Chinese and Iranian traditions was expressed in the use of oriental motifs that were prevalent at that time. His keen interest in Russian ballet (and the bold colors inherent in its costumes and sets) inspired his use of bright colors.

His love for India and the heritage of the Maharaja, from whom Cartier acquired many beautiful stones, inspired him to create the “fruit basket” style, now known as “tutti-frutti”. And his passion for the history of Ancient Egypt resulted in a phenomenon called the Egyptian Renaissance, which became, perhaps, the crown of his contribution to jewelry art. This movement received a strong impetus for further development after the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922. Leading masters of the Art Deco period include names such as Cartier, VanCleef & Arples, Bucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin, Bolin, Belperron, Mellerio, Georg Jensen, LaCloche, Templier , Tiffany, Marchak, James Caldwell and Fouquet.

Art Deco Already in the first decade of the 20th century, jewelers gradually began to abandon the sophisticated forms and sinuous lines of Art Nouveau. Under the influence of the turbulent processes taking place at that time in literature, painting, and architecture, jewelers also turned to the search for new means of expression, which was reflected in the geometric lines of late modernity. However, this search was interrupted by the First World War, which not only claimed many lives and left untold destruction, but also led to disillusionment with the values of the past and gave rise to an uncontrollable desire to find new ideals. Jewelers, always sensitive to the mood of society, quickly realized that their art can bring people joy, help them forget about the horrors of war. But to achieve this it was necessary to offer fundamentally new products. Inspired by the artistic ideas of art of the early 20th century, which were embodied in the paintings of cubists and abstractionists, Russian Suprematists and Italian futurists, and finally, in the bright colors of the costumes and scenery of the ballet performances of the Russian

Sergey Dyagelev

seasons" by Sergei Diaghilev, jewelers, like their fellow artists - architects and decorative artists who worked on interior design - finally abandoned the fancifully curving lines and faded coloring of Art Nouveau. In search of new means of expression, they turned to clear geometric forms, with a clear construction of symmetrical compositions, in which beautifully cut precious stones played a dominant role.

The new fashion completely fell under the power of pure geometry, and the women's suit, which resembled a shirt in cut, began to be defined by strict
constructiveness. New names have appeared among fashion creators. In 1920, avant-garde artist Sonia Delaunay opened a fashion salon in Paris, decorating her models with bright geometric patterns. In the 1930s, a new star sparkled on the fashion horizon - Coco Chanel, who paid great attention to jewelry accessories, and soon began designing jewelry herself. New times have given rise to a new ideal of women. She became independent and independent, an equal partner with a man. Brave Parisians

Coco Chanel

recognized trendsetters, soon after the war, first of all, they cut their hair, then shortened their skirts and put on sleeveless dresses. An original fashion trend emerged, focused on half-girlish, half-boyish figures - the so-called “garçon” fashion. True, in the 1930s, the dress line softened somewhat, luxury fashion became more feminine, and ideas about beauty were embodied in the images of Hollywood movie stars. But in both of these decades, women's costume opened up wide possibilities for the imagination of jewelers.

Among the most picturesque decorations, undoubtedly belonged to the “tassel brooch” that decorated the open collar of the evening dress; in daytime, more modest, toilets, it was replaced by an unusually long string of artificial pearls or beads made of stones. Long earrings came into fashion, effectively decorating cropped heads, heavy belts and bracelets, which were often worn not only on the wrist, but also on the forearm. A new type of jewelry appeared - a two-piece brooch with a clip lock; It was used to pin fashionable truacarts. Wristwatches gained exceptional popularity during this period; jewelers created them showed amazing imagination. The watches were distinguished by their variety of shapes, richness of decoration and elegance. The body and bracelets were decorated with precious stones.

The pioneers of a new direction in jewelry art were French masters. Among them was one of the most famous jewelers in Paris, Georges Fouquet, who in the Art Nouveau era was called “second after Lalique.” In one of his most accomplished works of the early 1920s years, in a round pendant with symmetrical pendants, all the features of the new style are already visible - the clear geometry of the form and ornamental structure of the decor, the bold mixture of expensive materials: diamonds, emeralds, lapis lazuli and rock crystal.

Even more innovative were the experiments of his son Jean Fouquet: he created a series of jewelry that was completely different from anything that had been done before. Collections in Paris and New York contain his ivory brooch and bracelet, composed of round yellow gold links, which are decorated with pyramids of black onyx and circles of white gold. These unusual jewels were clearly created under the influence of the avant-garde searches of painters of the beginning of the century, and above all the Cubists. No less interesting are the platinum earrings of another Parisian jeweler, Raymond Templier; the ideas of constructivism are clearly felt in their construction. Templier decorated the strict geometric elements of his “precious designs” with bright enamel or Japanese varnish, achieving unusually effective color contrasts. However, these expressive and original works of both jewelers gave more of an impression of “self-sufficient” works of art than jewelry harmoniously connected with the human body and his costume.
Perhaps, in this approach to the artistic design of jewelry, Jean Fouquet and Raymond Templier were almost a hundred years ahead of their time.

In the 1920s, during the early days of what was sometimes called “jazz modern,” jewelers often used materials such as enamel, chrome, glass and plastic, and favored bright colors. But very soon they realized that the post-war “lost generation” needed the illusion of well-being that only gold, platinum and the most beautiful natural stones provided. Many people have already learned from their own bitter experience what a life-saving financial source jewelry can be in difficult times - and besides, they have been deprived of them for a long time.

Multi-colored jewelry became especially popular after the advent of fashion for Indian jewelry. In addition, the stone market was saturated with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, cut in the shape of leaves, flowers, berries or balls. At the same time, the famous Cartier jewelry appeared in the “tutti frutti” style he invented; they were bright multi-color compositions of carved precious stones. After the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 and the subsequent surge of interest in Egypt, the company began producing colorful jewelry, made in the "Egyptian style". Among them are spectacular pendants made of jade plates, decorated with diamonds and rubies, and the famous scarab brooch made of smoky quartz with blue faience wings set with diamonds. Jewelers especially often began to create bright decorative items after the crisis of 1929: this is how they tried to attract the attention of buyers and survive during this difficult time.

The success of jewelers working in the Art Deco style was phenomenal. Formal recognition of the new style can be considered the fact that the highest award of the exhibition - the Gold Medal - was awarded to the Parisian jeweler Georges Mauboussin for jewelry in the Art Deco style. By that time, his products were already well known to jewelry lovers. The necklaces created by Mauboussin, in which diamonds set in a platinum frame alternated with beautiful pearls and decorated the central part - a jadeite ring - were distinguished by their amazing beauty and elegance and were the object of desire of many social beauties and Hollywood stars. His pendants in the form of stylized flower vases and fountains, decorated with carved emeralds, diamonds and enamel, became objects to be imitated and copied. All these decorations are made in the Art Deco style, and it was this style that made Mauboussin famous.

But the development of style did not stand still. He was born in the age of science and technology and was greatly influenced by its achievements. One of the jewelers who participated in the exhibition wrote that “polished steel, dull nickel, shadow and light, mechanics and geometry - all these are objects of our time. We see them and live with them every day. We are people of our era, and this is the basis of all our present and future creations...” It is not surprising that in order to achieve artistic expression, jewelers made a lot of effort in searching for new materials and developing new technological techniques.

Already in the 1930s, the Art Deco style began to determine the artistic design of not only unique jewelry made using high-cost stones; in many countries of Europe and America, less expensive items were also created in this style, intended for a fairly wide range of buyers. Diamond clip brooches and sautoirs were in demand on the jewelry market, and especially elegant bracelets, in which medium-sized diamonds emphasized the clear lines of flat ornamental patterns. Many jewelry companies produced such jewelry in large quantities, and it is no coincidence that today they can be seen in any large antique store or found in an auction catalogue.

It is generally accepted that the Art Deco style dominated the art world for a little over two decades, from the end of the First World War to the beginning of the Second. However, the figurative structure and techniques developed by the Art Deco masters turned out to be so viable and universal that its influence was felt by jewelers of all subsequent generations. And herein lies the amazing phenomenon of Art Deco.