One of the most important communications related to water supply is the sewerage system, so during its construction it is necessary to pay attention to the quality of all components, including drain pipes.

The types and features of installation of drain pipes will be discussed directly in this article.

Types and characteristics of drain pipes

There are many different types of drain pipes, which are distinguished depending on their purpose, as well as the material of manufacture. Depending on their purpose, drain pipes can be used for both internal and external drainage sewer systems.

Important qualities that all external drainage systems without exception must have:

• strength;
• frost resistance;
• resistance to deformation and physical impacts;
• resistance to aggressive groundwater.

Internal drainage systems must be well soundproofed and have an aesthetic appearance.

They are also distinguished by the type of material.

Today the following types of pipes are available on the market:

• copper;
• cast iron;
• steel;
• concrete, reinforced concrete;
• asbestos;
• – polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene.

Each of these materials has certain disadvantages and advantages - you should choose the required type of pipe depending on the specific situation, taking into account the characteristics that will be important during use.

Drain pipes made of polymer materials are becoming increasingly popular both among construction organizations and individuals.

Perhaps the most important characteristic for drain pipes is their throughput. But it should be remembered that for metal pipes this throughput capacity decreases significantly over time due to the formation of deposits on the internal surfaces of the pipes.

The most severe are:

• metal pipes;
• concrete pipes;
• ceramic pipes.

Increased rigidity of the material is not always a plus, since in some cases it can provoke damage to pipes and their subsequent destruction, for example, when laying in unstable soils or in places where the level of mechanical stress and vibration is increased (for example, in large cities under highways). or railways).

Polypropylene or other polymer material is perfect here.

How to replace drain pipes

Replacing a drain pipe yourself is a fairly messy and time-consuming process. But if desired, this procedure is quite feasible with your own hands.

To do this you will need the following tools:

• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• chisel;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• adjustable wrenches;
• silicone sealant.

After calculating the required materials, it is necessary to calculate the number of water intake points and draw up a preliminary plan for the future sewerage system. In addition, determine the required diameter and length of the pipes, and also count the required number of cuffs.

Dismantling of old sewerage

To properly dismantle an obsolete sewer pipeline, you first need to free up the workspace, that is, remove the washing machine from the bathroom and dismantle the sink and bidet.

First of all, you will need to turn off the water and use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply hose from the toilet flush tank. Next, the toilet is removed, and the process of dismantling the pipes begins.

It is necessary to remove old sewerage, starting with those pipes that are located away from the riser. In extreme cases, you can even break them with a hammer.

Pipes located near the riser should be removed more carefully. To do this, the old drain pipe must be cut off using a grinder at a distance of 10-15 cm from the socket.

Next, you need to try to very carefully swing the remaining end of the pipe, and then remove it from the socket of the tee embedded in the riser. It should be taken into account that if the tee socket is damaged, various adverse consequences can occur.

If you still can’t pull the pipe out, it’s better to do this: use a grinder to make neat cuts on the pipe, then remove the pipe using a hammer and chisel. Finally, the bell must be thoroughly cleaned of any remaining solution and dirt.

How to install new pipes

A rubber cuff is inserted into the socket of the tee, after which the connection must be thoroughly coated with sealant. Typically, the number one water intake point is considered to be the toilet. Before one drain pipe is inserted into another, it is recommended to coat the joints with sealant.

The drain pipes must be fastened next to each joint and care should be taken to ensure that no fractures occur at the joints.

Pipes are installed in a similar way at the remaining water intake points. The slope towards the riser when installing drain pipes should be about five degrees. A cuff of the required diameter is inserted under each corrugation. It should be noted that cutting pipes to drain water is strictly not recommended.

A well-designed new household sewerage system made of plastic pipes will certainly delight its owners for decades. Naturally, creating it will require maximum effort, but it will be worth it.

The only thing that can be recommended in this case is that immediately before laying new drain pipes, check and, if necessary, reseal (waterproof) the floor in rooms with pipelines being repaired. This will protect you and your neighbors from trouble in case of emergency situations.

One of the final stages of building a house or other structure is the installation of a drainage system.

A prefabricated structure made of plastic or metal elements protects the building from precipitation and prolongs the life of the foundation, walls, and roof. Knowledge of the design and installation rules of gutters will help you install the system yourself, and we will tell you how to do it.

The design of drainage structures has remained virtually unchanged over the years - the main components still remain gutters and risers in the form of vertically located pipes.

However, many elements have appeared that simplify the installation of parts to the surfaces of the roof, facade and among themselves.

The production of products is on a grand scale, and today you can purchase ready-made elements for any, even the most complex systems, as long as material capabilities allow.

After the necessary calculations, the required number of parts is purchased, then they are folded according to the principle of a designer and mounted according to the instructions.

Schematic representation of the elements of the drainage system. In addition to the indicated elements, the installation kit may contain clamps, couplings, seals, connecting elements of various configurations

For a dacha - a small house with a gable roof - you can build the structure yourself using galvanized steel sheets.

But for a large cottage with a beautifully designed facade and roof, it is better to purchase a ready-made factory kit, which will be an additional decoration for the building.

Types of drains based on material of manufacture

Before purchasing and installing gutters, you need to decide on the material of manufacture, since the installation method also depends on this. All systems can be divided into two large groups: plastic and metal.

Polymer element sets

Polymer products are produced on the basis of vinyl with the addition of plasticizers, stabilizers and other components that increase the strength and wear resistance of the elements. Plastic systems last from 10 to 25 years.

Step-by-step instructions for installing gutters

Preparation and installation work can be divided into three large stages:

• design– drawing up a diagram, selecting components, calculations;
• assembly of the water intake part of the system– mainly horizontal elements;
• installation of risers, directing precipitation into.

Assembly and installation are carried out from top to bottom, that is, the first elements are installed on the roof and under the roof, then on the facade towards the foundation and blind area. All actions must be performed taking into account the characteristics of the system and the material from which the individual elements are made.

As a sample for installation, we will take a plastic drainage system - the most suitable for independent work.

Stage #1 – design and calculations

The nuances of the project directly depend on the type, shape and size of the roof, so you should start by measuring the roofing surfaces.

The length of the gutters is selected relative to the length of the slopes, the width and location - based on their area.

In order for precipitation to be removed in full, the following points should be clarified:

• Number of drainage gutters. A gable roof has two of them, and a hip roof has four, connected into a continuous contour for a more efficient drainage system. If there are more slopes, then there is a gutter under each one.
• Number of risers. Traditionally, drainpipes are located at the corners of the job - there can be 2,3 or 4 of them. But if the length of the gutter is more than 12 m, then an additional compensating funnel with a pipe is installed in the center.
• Bracket type. Usually two types are used: long ones are mounted on the sheathing, even before laying the final roofing covering, and short ones are fixed on the front board - they can be installed at any time, including after construction is completed.
• Slope of horizontal elements. For unhindered drainage, gutters are placed at a slope of 2-4 mm per linear meter by adjusting the brackets - according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. A drainage funnel is installed at the bottom.

The location of the risers largely determines whether the system can cope with the drainage of liquid from the roof. Traditionally, they are installed in the corners, but other options are also possible - with placement in the center, in niches.

To correctly install funnels and compensators, it is necessary to take into account factors such as the number and length of slopes, angle of inclination, total roof area

You should not forget about the aesthetic side and ease of use - drainpipes should not protrude far forward from the facade, or go onto pedestrian paths or adjacent areas.

Calculations are made individually; there are no universal offers.

However, there are rules that help to build the system:

• the length of the gutters will be calculated based on the length of the cornices, adding 2.5 mm for linear expansion for every 12 m;
• connecting elements for gutters are selected based on the standard length of one element - if you purchase 4-meter gutters for a 12-meter cornice, you will need 2 connectors;
• the number of funnels is determined as follows: one per gutter up to 12 m, for longer ones - another funnel or compensator;
• the number of brackets depends on the total length of the gutters, taking into account the fact that installation is carried out at intervals of 0.5-0.6 m; don’t forget about additional ones - for funnels;
• the length of the drainpipes is determined by the height of the walls minus the distance from the gutters to the eaves and from the outlet to the ground surface;
• the number of brackets is also dictated by the height of the building: two are mounted near the outlet and funnel, the rest - at intervals of 1.2-1.5 from them.

A couple more important dimensions that should be taken into account are the width of the gutters and the diameter of the downpipes.

Due to the protruding eaves, the downpipes have a curved shape. To achieve this, use elbows, which are installed below the eaves and directed towards the facade

If the area of ​​the slope does not exceed 80 m², usually no calculations are made, but risers with a diameter of 100 mm are taken as a basis.

Stage #2 – installation of water intake elements

To install the hook-shaped brackets that usually support gutters, you can remove the outermost row of tiles or other roofing covering to expose the sheathing.

If this option is not possible, instead of long brackets, fix short hooks to the front side of the cornice trim.

The holders are secured in such a way that, as a result of installation, the gutter protrudes beyond the edge of the roofing by at least 2 cm, to a maximum of 2/3 of its width

The optimal location of the gutters should prevent the overflow of atmospheric runoff over the edge, as well as the accumulation of snow.

The brackets are mounted in the following order:

• preliminary fitting and selection of length/installation location;
• determining the angle of inclination towards the drainage funnel;
• bending of holders;
• installation of extreme brackets;
• installation of other elements along a pre-tensioned cord.

After installing the brackets, it is necessary to prepare and install the funnel.

To do this, we place it in the right place against the gutter, outline the outline, then remove it and drill a hole with a drill with a suitable crown. We clean the edges and connect the funnel to the hole.

To seal the connection, coat an area 0.5-0.7 cm wide with glue and let it dry. Some types of funnels are equipped with latches for a more secure fit, others are simply applied from the outside

Installation of the gutter begins with an element with an already fixed funnel. Then the next one joins it, and so on until the highest point. The gutter elements are joined using connectors.

Despite the tight fit and latches at the edges, the connecting elements and the edges of the gutters are also coated with glue before contact. Plugs are also placed on the same glue at the extreme points that do not end in funnels.

Installation of short brackets is done differently.

Short holders are fixed directly on the front board. The fastening element has a movable design that allows you to adjust the angle of inclination if necessary

If the brackets are installed correctly, installation of water inlets does not take much time. As a result, the gutter should be placed with a slight protrusion beyond the cornice, at an angle towards the funnel.

Stage #3 – installation of drainpipes

Assembly of the riser begins from the top part - the transition from the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the cornice protrudes less than 0.25 m, then the transition element is assembled from a pair of elbows.

Features of installing elbows: the upper element is not glued to the funnel, in order to maintain the possibility of dismantling, a bracket is mounted under the coupling connectors

Starting from the funnel and the joint of the knees, we continue the assembly downwards. Between two adjacent vertical elements connected by a coupling, there must be a gap of at least 20 mm in width to compensate for linear expansion.

Every 1.2-1.5 m we install clamps to secure the drain to the wall of the building. Anchor bolts or other fasteners are included with the clamps

To prevent abrasion of the drain pipe and holders, the clamps of modern systems are equipped with a dense rubber seal on the inside.

The service life of any roof depends on a variety of factors - the quality of the materials used, the approach to calculations, installation technology and external influences. One of these factors is the drainage of water from the roof, which, if not properly installed, regularly exposes the structure to moisture.

A well-designed and correctly assembled roof drainage system is an important element of the roof structure and requires a lot of attention. This article will discuss how to properly drain water from the roof.

Structurally, any drainage system consists of a pipe, gutters and drainage funnels. Once in these elements, water from the roof surface is sent to the storm drain, where its impact will no longer harm the building.

There are three basic diagrams of the drainage system:

1. Unorganized drainage of rainwater from the roof. This design, which is also called spontaneous, in accordance with its name, ensures independent drainage of water from the roof. A distinctive feature of spontaneous drainage is its simplicity - nothing needs to be installed to ensure drainage. The problem is that the flowing water washes away the building, damages the wall finishing and negatively affects the waterproofing layer.
2. Organized external water drainage from the roof. This is a classic design consisting of a drain pipe, a gutter and several funnels that are connected to a storm drain. As a result of installing an organized external drain, water is collected from all slopes and removed from the roof surface. External drainage is quite simple to install and maintain.
3. Organized internal rain drainage from the roof. The main difference between an internal drain and an external drain is the installation of structural elements in the building itself in such a way that they are not noticeable. As a rule, such a drain is installed in the case of flat roofs. Installing an internal drain is complicated, and maintaining it will be very difficult, especially if mistakes were made during the installation.

Various materials are used to construct a drainage system, the choice of which directly affects the cost of the structure and its durability. In order for components to perform their assigned duties well, they need sufficient moisture resistance, resistance to temperature changes and a long service life.

In most cases, water drainage from the roof is arranged using the following materials:

1. Cink Steel. Steel is used most often for water drainage. To a large extent, the high popularity is due to the fact that you can select not only ready-made structural elements, but also make them yourself using sheet metal. Galvanized steel meets all the requirements: it has excellent corrosion resistance, can easily withstand the effects of external factors and can easily last more than 15 years. The only drawback of steel products is their heavy weight, which complicates installation and creates large loads on the roof frame.
2. Plastic. Polymer elements are very well suited for arranging a drainage system. Having most of the advantages of steel parts, plastic has a lower cost, much lighter weight and a wide range of colors, which allows you to choose the right color to match the roof. Installing a plastic roof drain is very simple - installation will not cause problems, and all the necessary elements are included in the kit. The biggest disadvantage of polymer products is their poor resistance to significant temperature changes.
3. Copper . Copper components for drains are primarily characterized by their high cost, so they are used infrequently. However, the high cost is completely justified - copper is completely resistant to moisture and can work for more than a hundred years without any complaints. The main disadvantage of copper parts is the large weight inherent in all metal products, so the rafter frame and sheathing will have to be reinforced.

When choosing materials for arranging a drainage system, you need to start from the roofing. It is best to equip a seam roof, as well as roofs made of metal tiles and profile sheets, with a plastic-coated steel drain. In the case of soft roll coverings, plastic pipes for draining water from the roof will be relevant, and for copper coverings, copper components for drainage will be suitable.

Before choosing drain pipes for the roof, you need to calculate their sizes, based on climatic conditions and roof parameters. As practice shows, for small buildings a pipe with a diameter of 50-70 mm and a gutter with a diameter of 70-120 mm are quite suitable.

In order to drain water from the roof, you need to ensure that two factors are met:

• The presence of a slope towards the drainage funnels,
• Tightness.

If these factors are present, then if all components of the drainage system are installed correctly, it will work correctly.

During installation, the following rules must be taken into account and followed:

1. If the drain is heavy, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame at the points of attachment of the drainage elements. Plastic drains can be attached to the eaves, but metal products are attached to the rafters.
2. In the gap between the gutter and the rafters, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing. The material is selected individually: both polyethylene film and various bitumen mastics can act as waterproofing.
3. Drainage elements are installed along the entire perimeter of the roof. The drainage chute is attached with a slight slope towards the drainage funnels.
4. The gutter itself is secured using special brackets. One half of the gutter should be under the roof overhang, and the other should go outside. Such an installation will ensure effective collection of liquid and prevent structural destruction due to collapsed snow masses.
5. Vertical drain risers are attached to the corners of the building. A storm drain is supplied to these points (if there is none, then containers are installed under the drains or a sand and gravel cushion is installed). There should be a distance not exceeding 50 cm between the edge of the drainpipe and the ground.
6. The mounting brackets are installed in increments of about 50-60 cm. If the structure is heavy, the spacing between the fastenings should be reduced even more.

In order for the drainage system to function properly, it must be monitored and regularly maintained. If the installation of drains on the roof was done correctly, then it will only have to be cleaned once a season. During the maintenance process, you need to make sure that there are no leaks, and if they are detected, take corrective measures.

Conclusion

Water is drained from the roof using a drainage system. Proper selection of materials and high-quality installation will allow you to create a reliable system that can effectively perform all its tasks.

How to drain water from the roof - rules for installing gutters, pipes, traysDraining water from the roof: drain pipes, drain gutter, installation of a rainwater drainage system

How to make a roof drain yourself step by step?

gutter plugs

The tools you will need are a grinder or a hacksaw.

It is advisable to install drains during the construction of a building - this will make the work much easier than installing a drain in a completed building.

The first step when installing the gutter is to attach brackets to the roof that will hold the gutter. They need to be mounted at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other. The brackets are attached at an angle so that for every 3.5 meters there is a slope of at least 1 cm.

The next step is installation of the gutter. It must be installed with a distance from the roof of 0.25 cm.

The gutter is installed in the grooves of the brackets, and its joints are connected using special glue or sealant. The excess part of the gutter is cut off with a grinder.

Corner elements are attached to the corners of the building. All necessary plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter.

As I understand it, we are talking about a drain.

Gutter systems can be made of various materials, aluminum, plastic, galvanized and so on, including copper.

They are attached in different ways, they have their own nuances.

Brackets for gutters can be installed (this is the best option) before installing the roofing material, or after.

The width of the slopes is different, all this must be taken into account.

We attach the brackets to the rafters (there is no roofing).

First, the bracket is at the highest point, then at the lowest (at the funnel).

Look at the slope at the location, everything depends on the width of the roof and the angle of the slope, the amount of precipitation in a particular region, usually it is at least 3 mm per meter (slope towards the funnel).

The distance between the brackets is 500 mm, 600 mm (it is not difficult to count their number).

An end cap is installed at the end of the outer gutter (from the funnel).

After installing the gutters, we install a funnel (there may be several of them, the number depends on the length of the gutters).

After installing the funnel, installing vertical drain pipes are attached to the surface with clamps.

This is general, but there are also absolutely individual moments; before installing a drain, calculations are required, the diameter of the gutters (and even their shape) and pipes are different, the slope angle of the roof is different, the roof covering material is different, everything must be calculated locally.

Installing a roof drain with your own hands: how to do it right? To install a roof drain yourself, you will need the following materials: gutters pipes brackets connecting fasteners sealant glue seals (rubber) plugs for the gutter From ins…

Let's look at how to make a personal drain from plastic pipes, since this is the simplest and most effective option. As practice has shown, the best materials for this matter are plastic sewer and ventilation pipes.

To work you will need the following tools:

1. Bulgarian.
2. Screwdriver or screwdriver.
3. Roulette.
4. Cord or thread.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Sandpaper.
7. Level and plumb.
8. Marker.
9. Silicone sealant.
10. Scaffolding or stairs.

And as materials you need to purchase:

• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 80, 90 or 110 mm, from which gutters will be made. They are cut in half.
• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, which will act as vertical pipes for drainage.
• Plastic fittings, which will be funnels, connecting the gutter and vertical pipe.
• Diversion corners and elbows, thanks to which gutters can go around the corners of the building, and change the direction of vertical drain pipes to the desired location.
• Plastic pipe plugs, which will also need to be cut in half.
• Plastic brackets and iron clamps.

• Collecting water from the roof of a building into a convenient container. A barrel or other convenient reservoir is installed half a meter away from the building. In this case, for convenience, you can bury the container in the ground with your own hands. The accumulated water can be used to water house plants or a vegetable garden.
• Filtration well for collecting storm water. To do this, a hole is dug in the soil, the bottom of which is filled with crushed stone. Next, a concrete well is constructed, half of which is filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand. This drainage layer will absorb dirt contained in the wastewater.
• Drainage of rainwater into the central sewer system. If private housing construction is connected to a centralized drainage system, then rainwater can be redirected directly to the sewer system. Naturally, such work must be coordinated with the relevant authorities.
• Drainage of rainwater into a drainage pit or reservoir. Rainwater does not harm the ecosystem and therefore can flow into a natural water reservoir: river, lake, etc.

Roofing system elements

Today, experts are considering two types of roof water drainage systems - external and internal structures. The internal design of the drainage system is used on flat-shaped roofs, where the roofing material is given a certain slope towards the funnel, which acts as a rainwater receiver.

Through such a drain hole, water masses enter drainpipes located inside the building or in specially equipped technical cavities.

An external drain means a system mounted on the eaves of a pitched roof structure. This type of storm water drainage has become most widespread in most suburban buildings, and it is this type that will be discussed in detail. In this case, the main elements of the external drainage system are the following components:

• Gutters, which are designed to collect storm water flowing from the roof of a building. Such products can vary in both shape and size, as well as the material used for their manufacture. After collecting water, it is redirected through gutters into downspouts, which direct the water flow to the main drain.
• Connecting elements for gutters. Structurally, the gutter is produced with a length of no more than 250 cm and therefore, in the process of arranging a system for draining water from the roof, it is necessary to connect the individual elements to each other. To do this, special connectors with a rubber gasket are used, which ensures the tightness of the joint, as well as compensation for the thermal expansion of the materials from which the gutters are made.
• Corner adapters for gutters necessary for bypassing the drainage system along the internal corners of house construction. Thanks to such structural elements, excellent hydrodynamics are ensured.
• Fastening elements are brackets that are designed to securely fix gutters to the roof of a building. Usually these are elements resembling hooks on which the gutter is suspended. Such products differ in their length and design.
• Gutter funnels, with the help of which water flow collected from the roof is redirected into drainpipes. Such a structural element is mandatory for any wastewater system and does not require additional sealing measures during installation.
• Gutter caps are special elements designed to block water flow at the edges of gutters.
• Drainpipes that are installed to drain water flows into a designated place or reservoir. This structural element is mounted directly under the funnel and securely fixed to the wall.
• Drain and pipe elbow used to drain water to a certain distance from the blind area around the building. This design is designed to change the direction of laying the sewer pipe.
• Fastening clamps for fixing waste pipes. Such brackets are intended for attaching drainpipes to the walls of a building.

In addition to the drainage elements considered, protective caps can be used - special meshes for gutters that prevent various debris from entering the drain pipe in the form of leaves, branches and other foreign objects falling onto the roof from trees. After all, everyone understands that a dirty drainage system will not be able to fully cope with the collection and drainage of rainwater.

Roof drainage can be internal or external. For private construction, an external drainage system is used. Such a drain is installed on a single-pitched, multi-pitched, hip roof.

Gutter Necessary for collecting rain and melt water from the roof. Available in different shapes and sizes, made of metal or plastic. The gutter directs water into the downspout.

Connecting strips for gutter. They have rubber seals, which ensure complete tightness of the connection, and the clamps also compensate for the expansion of the gutter material due to temperature changes.

Important: connectors are included with the gutter system only if the length of the gutters is more than 2.5 m.

Angle for gutter. Necessary for going around the corners of a building. Thanks to the angles, the entire drainage system is provided with high hydrodynamics.

Brackets - holders. These elements are necessary for attaching the drainage system to the roof. They are hooks of different lengths and sizes for hanging the gutter and securing the drainpipe.

Funnel. It carries water from the gutter into the drainpipe. A must install! If the drainage system is of high quality and the installation is carried out correctly, it does not require additional sealing.

Plugs. They are installed at the ends of the gutter to prevent water from flowing in the wrong place.

Pipes for draining water from the roof. It drains water from the gutter. It is mounted directly under the funnel and securely fixed to it.

Pipe and drain elbow. The elements are installed at the top and bottom of the drainpipe.

Cap or mesh. Reliable protection against small debris getting into the gutter.

Important: caps are not always included with the system. But experts recommend purchasing them separately if they are unavailable. The nets greatly simplify drainage maintenance.

Depending on the material, the entire mass of gutters is divided into metal and plastic. Occasionally you can find ceramic and even stone plums, but these are somewhat exotic and are used infrequently.

Metal plums, in turn, are divided into:

• galvanized – the most widely used;
• zinc titanium - almost not subject to corrosion, very durable, but easily deformed;
• aluminum – highly susceptible to mechanical damage;
• copper ones are beautiful, but quite expensive;
• lead - very resistant, but are now rarely used.

Of all the metal gutters, the best today are considered to be galvanized with a polymer coating, which protects the metal from corrosion, has high frost resistance, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and, thus, significantly increases the service life of the system.

Depending on the installation area, drains are divided into external and internal. Internal drains are used to drain precipitation from flat roofs of multi-story buildings. Small houses with pitched roofs are equipped with external gutters.

Based on the type of connection of individual elements, roof drains are divided into systems with rubber seals and adhesive ones.

No matter how well the drainage system is installed, it needs regular maintenance.

• Here we tell you how to install corrugated sheeting on the roof and what you should categorically avoid.
• This publication will introduce you to the technology of roof insulation from the inside.

Gutters, especially with insufficient slope (less than 10 0), quickly become overgrown with dirt and fallen leaves. Therefore, for the normal functioning of the drain system, it is necessary to completely clean it at least 2 times a year. And if special nets installed in the upper part of the gutters can save you from foliage, then this is not a hindrance for dirt.

Over time, gutters may begin to leak. To eliminate minor leaks, there are special rubber rings with titanium, but if the damage is large, you will have to change part of the system.

Components of a drainage system

In houses with pitched roofs, the drainage system is installed outside the building. It consists of the following components:

• hook-brackets;

  seals;

  connecting elements.

Manufacturers of drainage systems use various materials that differ in both wear resistance and price. The most popular are:

galvanized modular systems with or without coating;

plastic, made of PVC;

classic aluminum;

increased reliability titanium-zinc;

elite copper.

When choosing a material, you need to take into account the purpose of the house and financial capabilities. If plastic is ideal for a budget option, then for a country residence - a copper drain. Such a design will not only serve for decades without repair - which also applies to options made of titanium-zinc and aluminum - but will also create a feeling of luxury and indicate the high status of the owner.

Metal gutters are much more durable and will last longer.

Depending on the type of drain, it is installed either before laying the roof covering of the house, or after this work has been carried out.

The metal system, mounted to the bottom deck board or to the rafters, is attached to long hooks before roofing work begins.

Professional builders use this method with large areas of slopes and/or with significant throughput of the installed system.

If the roofing work has already been completed, then the best option would be a plastic system, the hooks for which can be attached at any stage.

This method is also optimal for large slope areas and high system throughput.

Hooks for the plastic system can be attached to the front board after laying the covering.

As a rule, storm drainage systems from the roof, their type and material, are determined at the design stage of the house. In this case, the customer can make adjustments until the roofing work begins.

Storm drains rest on special hooks

Roof drains made of galvanized steel, treated with a polymer coating, are durable, reliable and highly wear-resistant. They are used “in a set” with roofs made of metal tiles and corrugated sheets. Such systems are quickly installed, which reduces the overall cost of the building.

Drainage system made of galvanized steel with polymer coating

A metal system with double protection – polymer and zinc – prevents corrosion and withstands significant mechanical loads. One of the main advantages is linear expansion depending on temperature fluctuations. A drain made of metal does not require elements that compensate for linear expansion.

A budget PVC system will also do the job perfectly. Due to the composition of the plastic, such modules are practically inert to the negative influence of the environment. Among the main advantages are:

speed and ease of installation;

a light weight ;

restoration of the original shape after mechanical impact;

corrosion resistance;

absence of noise effects even during heavy precipitation;

wide range of colors.

In addition, manufacturers produce non-standard elements that allow aesthetic installation in houses with bay windows.

PVC drainage systems are cheaper, but they do their job perfectly

Carrying out installation activities for installing a drain on a pitched roof structure does not cause any particular difficulties and is therefore done with your own hands. Although the technological process has certain nuances that are important to take into account when carrying out all work in order for the design to be reliable. In cases where the homeowner is unsure of his construction talents, all work can be delegated to a team of qualified workers.

This is due to the fact that manufacturers of components for gutters provide a guarantee for all manufactured products. Therefore, if during transportation or installation of components, rainwater drainage systems, mechanical damage is caused to any element, then the warranty does not apply to it.

1. Installation of mounting brackets for gutters.
2. Direct installation of gutters.
3. Installation of waste pipes and holders for them.
4. Installation of a rainwater drainage system into a tank or designated area.

It is also important to decide what material you plan to use for the drain, as well as the shape and color of the future structure. At the next stage, calculations of consumables are carried out. Then they purchase all the components and only after that proceed to the installation work itself, which will be considered in as much detail as possible.

The drainage system is made from different materials, which differ in their features and price. It is possible to distinguish two main materials for the manufacture of drains:

1. Metal.
2. Polymers.

These are the most popular materials from which you can make your own drainage system. If we talk about metal, it costs more than plastic due to its strength. When making a drain, it is additionally coated with an anti-corrosion agent and a decorative coating, since, as we know, the disadvantage of metal is its tendency to corrosion.

If you want to make a metal structure, it is better to choose the following:

• Cink Steel;
• copper;
• aluminum.

To make a drain from galvanized steel, you need to buy it in sheets, the thickness of which reaches 1 mm. To additionally protect the material from corrosion, choose a material coated with polymers: polyester, plastisol or pural.

The aluminum construction is quite lightweight, which is its advantage. Page thickness can range from 0.8 mm to 1 mm. A special varnish is used to protect the material. It not only protects the aluminum, but also enhances its appearance. Such designs help for a long time, and if aluminum does not communicate with other metals, rust will not form on it.

The advantage of copper products is that they do not require additional processing. This kind of ebb is considered more durable, beautiful and of high quality; it is ideal for making a drainage system if your roof is not made of another metal. Copper, like aluminum, should not interact with other metals. The only negative is the high price of the material.

Plastic elements are another matter. They do not require additional processing, are more durable and do not corrode. Increased strength, durability, noiselessness and UV resistance - all these features have made plastisol and polyester the main materials that are ideal for making castings.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the material, then there is one big one: at low temperatures, plastic becomes brittle. And, not paying attention to various additives during production, in severe frosts the plastic can crack, which will break the tightness of the entire system. Indeed, if you live in a region with a temperate climate, this drawback will not bother you.

Considering all of the above, you have the opportunity to decide which material to choose for draining water from the roof of your house. Before we start making the ebb, let's determine what elements it consists of and how it is structured.

First you need to find out what exactly to make, since the drainage system consists of different elements:

1. Gutter One of the main elements of the entire structure. It helps to collect water from the roof slopes. Possibly round or square, mounted horizontally from the bottom of the roof overhang. The size of the gutter depends on the area of ​​the slope that it will serve.
2. Pipe. The vertical part of the structure that allows water to be drained to the place you need, be it a drainage system or a container for collecting rainwater. The pipes are attached to the wall of the building.
3. Storm drain or funnel. The element that connects the gutter to the pipe.
4. Turns and corners. Structural elements that allow you to walk around the house, various protruding elements, etc. Thanks to them, it is also possible to install the pipe at different distances from the wall of the house.
5. Plugs. In those places where a funnel and pipe are not provided, a plug is installed.
6. Gutter connection. While the walls are enormously long, the gutters are connected to each other by special connecting elements.
7. Fasteners for pipes and gutters that allow these elements to be firmly fixed to the wall.
8. Leaf trap. From time to time, a trap is installed into the system that looks like a grate. Thanks to it, leaves do not enter the system and clog it. All you have to do is periodically remove the leaves from the trap.

As they say, it is better to notice once than to hear a hundred times, based on this, below is a diagram in which you can clearly notice all the components of the system.

Installation of roof gutters – gutters and pipes

To understand how to make a drain from sewer pipes, it is important to take into account some installation features.

Perimeter gutters can be installed:

• to the edge of the rafter system,
• on the front strip of the cornice,
• on the roof itself.

The first two options are preferable, but they are easy to implement if the drain from sewer pipes is installed with your own hands at the construction stage, that is, before laying the top layer of the roof.

Mounting option for drainage brackets

• If the system is installed in an already built house, installation on the edge of the roof is allowed. It is advisable to choose the same method if the roof overhang is large (the edge is located at a considerable distance from the wall of the house).
• The gutters are installed in such a way that they extend beyond the edge of the roof by a third of the diameter of the pipe section and protrude by two-thirds, “catching the flow of water.”
• To ensure that water does not stagnate in the gutters, they should be placed with a slight slope towards the funnel (2-5 mm for each meter of length). The easiest way is to calculate the total slope along the side, mark the starting and ending points, and then connect them, marking the installation locations of the brackets. This will ensure a uniform slope.
• The upper edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm below the level of the edge of the roof. Otherwise, the structure could be torn off by snow or ice moving from the roof in the spring.

Having familiarized yourself with these nuances, you can begin to install a drain from the roof from sewer pipes.

For this you will need:

• screws, screwdriver or screwdriver;
• level and tape measure;
• file, sandpaper;
• hacksaw or grinder;
• twine;
• ladder or scaffolding.

Purchased drainage systems usually have grilles that cover the top of the gutters and protect the system from debris that can clog pipes and funnels, primarily from fallen leaves. Similar protection can be installed if you create a drainage system with your own hands from sewer pipes.

In this case, the mesh is purchased by the meter and cut into strips so that the diameter of the strip rolled into a cylinder is slightly less than the diameter of the pipe from which the gutter is made. Such cylinders are fixed with plastic clamps and placed in gutters. In some cases, additional protective nets are installed on funnels.

Drainage system protection

The most popular solution for draining water from the roof is drainage systems, the main elements of which are hanging gutters and downpipes.

Each manufacturer also usually includes corner elements, protective nets, revisions, fastening parts - brackets, holders, clamps, etc. in the drainage system.

The maximum cross-sectional size of a gutter usually falls within the range of 100 - 150 mm, and that of a drainpipe - 70 - 100 mm. Gutters are available in different shapes: semicircular, semioval, trapezoidal, rectangular or more complex shapes. The shape of the downspouts must match the shape of the gutter. The gutter shape is usually chosen for aesthetic reasons. All elements of the system are easily connected to each other and, if installed correctly, drain water properly.

Gutter parts can be made of PVC plastic, galvanized steel, aluminum, copper or titanium and zinc alloy. For economy-class houses, gutters made of plastic or steel are usually used. Systems made from other materials are much more expensive.

The drainage system made of PVC plastic has the following advantages:

• Has a minimal cost compared to metal systems.
• The unusually smooth surface of gutters and pipes prevents the accumulation of dirt.
• High resistance to corrosion.
• Simple installation that does not require high qualifications and special expensive devices. You can assemble a plastic drain with your own hands. You just need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
• The parts are painted in bulk, so scratches on its surface are hardly noticeable.

When choosing a plastic drainage system, you should also take into account the following features:

• Not very high resistance to low and high temperatures. The operating temperature of the parts is from -30 o C to 60 o C. At low temperatures, plastic elements become more fragile.
• When the temperature changes, the coefficient of linear expansion of plastic parts is 7 times greater than that of steel parts. When manufacturing and installing plastic gutters, special measures are taken to allow parts to change sizes without destroying them.
• When significant mechanical loads are applied to the drainage system, plastic parts crack and collapse, and metal parts become crushed.

Elements of galvanized steel gutters often have a polymer coating in a wide range of colors, which makes it easy to match the color of the gutters to the color of the facade or roof. System parts made of steel with a polymer coating are connected to each other with locks or brackets with latches through rubber gaskets.

In Russian snowy winters, ice often forms on roof eaves, gutters and drainpipes. Ice prevents water from draining from the roof and clogs gutters and pipes. Under the weight of ice, gutters and pipes are deformed and destroyed.

To protect against ice, increase the durability and trouble-free operation of gutters, heating electric cables are installed on the roof overhang, in gutters and pipes. The heating system adds a significant amount to the cost of constructing gutters. Plus, there are the annual costs of paying for electricity.

where: b - horizontal distance from the eaves overhang to the roof ridge; h - roof height; c is the length of the roof slope along the center line. All dimensions are in meters.

If the area of ​​the Se slope from which water is drained is less than 57 m2, then a gutter with a diameter of 100 mm is sufficient. and a drain pipe with a diameter of 70 mm.

With the slope area Se up to 97 m2, the gutter diameter is increased to 125 mm. Gutters with a diameter of 150 mm. will ensure drainage of water from a slope with an area Se of no more than 170 m2. In the last two cases, it is enough to choose drainpipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

The developer is quite capable of installing overhead drainage gutters and drainpipes on the roof on his own.

Three ways to install hanger gutter brackets.

Carefully study the manufacturer's instructions for installing the drainage system and carefully follow the recommendations contained in the manual.

Install brackets for gutters and pipe holders at a distance no greater than that specified in the installation manual. Typically, the pitch of brackets for gutters is 0.35-0.5 m.

It is imperative to ensure that the slope of the gutters in the direction of the drainpipe is 0.5 - 2% (5 - 20 mm per 1 m of gutter length). With such a tilt gutters will clean themselves flow of rainwater. The minimum slope of the gutter is not less than 0.2% (20 mm per 10 meters of length).

The edge of the gutter must be located at least 3 cm below the roof plane, otherwise it will slide off the roof snow will damage the gutter.

The outer edge of the gutter must be placed from the roof overhang at a distance of 1/2 - 2/3 of the gutter width, then water will always flow into the gutter.

On steep roof slopes, it may be impossible to fulfill the last two conditions. In this case To protect against snow, barriers must be installed on the roof for his arrest.

• The outer edge of the gutter is located slightly lower than the inner one, then water overflowing over the edge of the gutter during heavy rain will not fall on the facade.

When installing gutters at joints, maintain the thermal clearances recommended by the manufacturer of the drainage system. Gutters and pipes with temperature changes must be able to move freely- do not clamp them too tightly at the fastening points.

Correct orientation of the suspended gutter in relation to the edge of the roof.

To prevent snow sliding from the roof from damaging the gutter, its edge should be located 3 cm below the roof.

The parts of the drainage system made of PVC plastic are connected to each other through rubber sealing gaskets or glued together.

When assembling the system, it is necessary to take into account the outside air temperature at the time of installation. At temperatures below - 10°C, plastic becomes brittle. In addition, when cutting gutters, their length should be adjusted to take into account subsequent changes in linear dimensions with temperature fluctuations.

The gutter changes its length during temperature fluctuations, moving along the rubber seals at the joints.

• Underground drainage system to drain the site. The drainpipe is connected to the outlet of the drainage system through a collector well with a check valve that prevents rainwater from entering the drainage pipes;
• Storm drainage system for collecting and draining water from the surface of the site;
• A special system for collecting and storing rain and melt water for the purpose of its further use for irrigation and other household needs.
• Sewage system for household wastewater. With a centralized sewerage system, it is necessary to obtain permission to receive additional volumes of wastewater from the owner of the network (as a rule, permission is granted for an additional fee).

The rainwater inlet of the roof drainage system of a private house is equipped with a debris catcher, which must be regularly cleaned through the hatch.

Drainpipes are connected to the water intake pipes of closed storm sewer systems through special devices - storm water inlets.

These devices collect large debris (leaves, etc.), and they may also have a valve that prevents air (odors) from escaping from the sewer system. The rainwater inlet has a hatch through which you will periodically have to remove the debris that has accumulated there.

Draining rainwater through closed sewer systems significantly increases the cost of building a house.

Most often, in economy class houses, near-surface drainage trays are used to receive and drain water flowing from a drainpipe.

From the drainpipe, water enters the drainage tray of the blind area of ​​a private house

Such trays are usually installed not only to drain water from the roof, but also to collect and drain surface runoff from blind areas and other hard-surfaced areas. Water can be discharged from the trays onto the terrain of the site in a convenient place away from buildings or into a drainage well.

Installation of waste pipes and holders

Manufacturers are required to indicate them in the instructions supplied with the system. Therefore, when purchasing, do not forget to request documents for the drainage.

• First you need to determine the location and number of drainpipes. If water inlet funnels work as a connector for gutters, then they are first installed in the intended places. At the ends of such devices there are devices for a sealed connection with the gutter. This could be a rubber seal or a designated area for applying glue. Such funnels are attached to roof structures with brackets.

If the funnels of the purchased system are designed to be attached directly to the gutters, then they are installed after installing the gutter. To do this, a hole is first cut in the place where the funnel is attached. The funnel is attached to the gutter using glue or mechanically by snapping a special clamp.

• After studying the installation instructions, attach the brackets for laying the gutters at the required distance. In the case of a plastic system, this is usually 50 - 60 cm, for metal ones the distance is greater - 75 - 150 cm. The holders are positioned so that they ensure that the gutters slope towards the funnel (usually 2 - 3 mm per 1 linear meter of the gutter). To do this, install the bracket farthest from the funnel at the highest point, stretch a cord between it and the funnel, and then install the remaining hooks along it.

The brackets can be attached to the front board (plastic holders are used), and if the roofing covering has not yet been installed, then to the rafters (metal holders).

• The gutters begin to be laid, starting from the funnel, snapping the edge of the gutter into the clamp made on the edge of the bracket. The gutters themselves (depending on the type of drainage system) are connected to each other using glue, soldering or connecting elements. It must be taken into account that systems assembled using glue cannot be dismantled.

The gutters are installed so that their edges are below the line that continues the roof. This will help prevent water flows from overlapping the edge of the gutter, and also, when snow slides from the roof, it will reduce the likelihood of it getting into the gutter (otherwise, the gutters may tear off under the weight of snow and ice).

• At the next stage, corner elements are attached to the gutters, allowing them to go around the corners of the building and the protrusions of the facade.
• Side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutters.
• Installation of drainpipes is carried out from top to bottom - from the funnel. The distance from the pipe to the wall of the house must be at least 4 - 8 cm. The pipe sections are connected using couplings and secured in height to the wall with clamps located at a distance of 1 - 2 m (this is indicated in the instructions of the system supplier).
• If a pipe collects water from two funnels, then tees are used.
• The lower outlet of the pipe (direct drain) is fixed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the ground. If linear drainage is provided, then this distance can be reduced to 15 cm.

• Metal drains can be installed at any time of the year. But plastic ones - only at temperatures above 5 0 C, otherwise the material may crack when cutting.
• With sudden temperature changes, drains are subject to linear expansion and contraction, which can lead to damage to the gutters. This is especially true for adhesive systems where the fastening of elements is rigid. To compensate for linear changes, it is necessary to install an expansion element (compensator) at the highest point of the gutter. You can also use an expansion funnel into which the ends of the gutters fit freely. Metal gutters are much less susceptible to these phenomena, but they still use rubber seals.

Metal gutters are widely popular due to their combination of aesthetics, durability and fire safety.

One of the most inexpensive options is galvanized steel. The main disadvantage of this material is its low corrosion resistance. In combination with plastic coatings (pural, plastisol), you can not only extend the service life, but also give the drainage system additional decoration on the roof.

The copper drain system is the most durable, but also more expensive. When used as a coating, patina not only improves performance, but also adds sophistication in appearance. Copper gutters are most often combined with tile roofs. A more complicated option is to install a radius gutter that describes the façade of the building (brazed or welded).

Gutters made of zinc-titanium alloy have a surface of naturally formed patina - alkaline zinc carbonate.

The service life of such drainage systems is more than a century, if there is no contact with a copper or iron element.

Additionally, a mesh is installed that accumulates debris.

Modern drainage systems do not require special care measures. They do not require painting or the use of other anti-corrosion agents. But proper transportation, installation and cleaning of surfaces must be observed to avoid minor scratches.

To prevent various debris from getting into gutters and pipes along with rainwater, it is recommended to install special nets. If prevention turns out to be insufficiently effective, then debris can be removed with a strong stream of water from a watering hose.

You can also make a drain that has a built-in anti-icing system, which includes cables, temperature and humidity sensors.

A technical innovation that is used in the maintenance of drainage systems is the installation of robotic devices. They provide safe and effective pipe cleaning. This unit includes an intelligent recognition system that is capable of assessing the nature and degree of contamination, determining the required number of passes, and calculating the cleaning intensity. She can do all the cleaning work herself. This system is very suitable for those who do not have time to tinker with the drain.

A drainage device is installed on the drainpipes, which directs rainwater into a container installed nearby, a barrel. The device stops the flow of water into the container if it is completely filled.

A decorative container for collecting and storing water from drainpipes can become a home decoration.

In the drainage system described above, drainage trays-gutters are suspended from the roof eaves. Such gutters, when exposed to ice and snow, are easily deformed, displaced, damaged or clogged. The relatively small slope of the gutter and the narrow and deep opening of the tray make self-cleaning of debris difficult.

In operation, the option of a drainage system with an overhead gutter on the eaves of the roof causes less trouble.

Unfortunately, elements of such a factory-made drainage system are not often found on sale.

Usually, locally, on the edge of the roof, an apron for the eaves overhang (pos. 5) is made of galvanized iron and a wall-mounted gutter (pos. 2) is fixed on top. Water from the gutter flows into the receiving funnel of the drainpipe (pos. 4). It is clear that the manufacture of parts from ordinary gray galvanized iron, without a colored polymer coating, reduces the decorative effect of the roof.

Overhead gutters on slopes with a slight slope or low snow accumulation can serve as snow retention.

Due to the increased consumption of metal, a drainage system with overhead gutters is usually more expensive than with suspended gutters. However, the greater durability and reliability of overhead gutters, the ability, in some cases, to refuse the installation of snow retainers and electric heating devices, make such gutters quite competitive.

Are you planning to install a gutter system, but don't know where to start? No problem, as I will tell you about everything, from how to choose a drainage system and ending with how to protect it from blockages and freezing. Ultimately, you can decide which system is right for you, how many gutters and downspouts your home needs, how to install it all, and how to operate your drain.

Copper gutters belong to the elite category, are expensive, but also last for over half a century without the need for repairs.

To protect against corrosion, steel products are painted or a layer of polymer coating is applied on top of them.

On average, the service life of plastic drainpipes is 15-20 years without the need for repairs.

Among the advantages of plastic gutters, I note their low weight, absolute resistance to corrosion and long-term preservation of the original appearance due to through painting.

What does the drainage system consist of?

Please note that depending on the type of drains, the plugs can be universal or separately left and right.

Please note that depending on the type of gutters, the number of external and internal corner elements can be calculated separately.

By comparing the listed parameters, you can calculate what sizes of drainage system components are needed for a particular roof.

Table of the ratio of roof area and drainage dimensions

The exact relationship between the dimensions of the roof slope and the size of the gutters can be found in the proposed table. The pattern is obvious - the larger the area of ​​the slope, the larger the diameter of the drain and gutter.

Having decided on the diameter of the water inlet and drain, you need to measure the length of the eaves of the inclined slopes and calculate how much gutter is needed. Then the Catholicity of the funnels is calculated at the rate of 1 piece. per 10 meters of water intake. The last stage is to calculate the length of the pipe with a diameter suitable for the funnel to organize vertical drainage.

How to install a gutter system

If we place long brackets on the cornice board, we make a secret hole into which we recess the holder’s foot. We attach the short brackets directly to the front board.

Creating gutters

What are the types of roof drains and their installation technology?

For normal operation of the building, it is extremely important to properly install the roof structures. But no matter how good the roof is. It is impossible to avoid soaking the walls of the house during rain, when large masses of water roll off the roof. In addition, erosion of the soil near the house and penetration of water into the foundation or basement may occur, which will also have a bad effect on the operational characteristics of the building.

How to avoid all these problems? It is easier to prevent them than to deal with the consequences. And the drainage system will help with this.

The main purpose of the organized water drainage system is to ensure controlled drainage of precipitation from the roof of the building. The gutter is designed to direct rainwater in the desired direction. With its help, you can organize the drainage of water into various containers (usually barrels or bathtubs), divert it away from the building or direct it into the drainage system.

Proper installation of drains allows you to avoid soil erosion, flooding of basements, and destruction of house structures and adjacent communications.

• Why it is worth equipping your roof with snow guards and how to install them, you will learn from our article.
• Read about lightning protection for a private home at this link.

In addition to all these important tasks, the drain also performs a decorative function - it separates the roof from the facade and therefore should fit as organically as possible into the overall architectural style of the building.

How to make a water drain from the roof with your own hands?

The list of the destructive forces of nature can be continued for quite a long time, but even without this, the importance of constructing a system for draining water from the roof of a house is clear. For this purpose, a drainage system is installed immediately under the roof overhang, collecting water flowing from the roof and redirecting the liquid to a designated place on the garden plot.

To calculate the required angle of inclination, the length of the roof slope is taken into account (for example, 6-m). The slope angle should be 1 cm per 1 m. Thanks to simple mathematical calculations, it turns out that the difference in the heights of the upper and lower brackets will be 60 cm. Therefore, on massive roofing structures with a length of more than 12 m, 2 separate drains are installed.

Attaching the brackets starts from the top element. Its location should be on the opposite side to the drainpipe. Its installation should be done in such a way that water flows from the roof enter the gutter, but at the same time it does not interfere with the convergence of snow, which can break the drainage system. The gap from the edge of the roof to the top bracket should be 100–150 mm. Standard screws are used for fastening.

The second in turn is the outermost lower bracket. It is fixed with the same screws. After this, construction string is stretched between the extreme points and the remaining brackets are marked for fastening. The fastening spacing of adjacent elements can vary from 40 to 70 cm, depending on the design features of the roof. It is also important to remember that the receiving funnel is not mounted at the very edge of the gutter, but at a distance of 30–60 cm from the extreme point.

Let's look at the two most popular types of drainage systems - galvanized and plastic drains.

Galvanized roof drain is water resistant and inexpensive. Available in different colors, which allows you to fit the drainage system into the design of the entire house. Modern galvanized gutters have a polymer coating, making them stronger, more resistant to corrosion and fading. The service life of the drain has increased significantly. The system brackets are a snap-on design. Gutter connections are equipped with sealing rubber bands and brackets.

The disadvantage of such a drain is the high noise level, like any metal product.

Plastic drainage is very popular. PVC products are more than affordable, and the functionality is in no way inferior to more expensive options. Installing a roof drain is simple and can be done independently. The weight is minimal, so the drain can be attached to even the lightest roofing elements.

The color range is wide, and will allow you to choose a worthy decoration for your home. Gutters will not create unnecessary noise, unlike their metal counterparts.

The disadvantages of plastic roof drains are the deterioration of the quality of the material due to exposure to sunlight. Plastic also does not tolerate temperature changes well. The mechanical resistance of plastic is low, but this indicator is typical only for pipes and gutters of large diameter.

The gutter holders are attached first. The maximum distance between them is no more than 900 mm.

The gutter fits into the holders. The gutters are connected to each other by connecting strips.

Important: at this stage it is extremely important to carefully observe the required angle of inclination; for these purposes, you can use a regular cord. The required angle of inclination is indicated in the instructions for the drainage system.

Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter.

The funnel is installed in the center or at the edge of the gutter and secured with brackets. An angular elbow is fixed to the funnel (it takes the drain closer to the wall of the house).

After the upper part of the system is assembled, drainpipes are installed.

Important: pipes are assembled from top to bottom!

The pipes are secured to the wall with brackets.

Important: the distance from the pipe to the wall of the house is at least 4 cm. If the pipe fits more tightly, there is a risk of condensation forming on the wall and the development of fungus.

An outlet is attached to the bottom of the pipe. The distance to the ground from the outlet level is from 20 to 30 cm.

Modern roof drains do not require painting or coating with protective compounds over time. But autumn drain cleaning is a prerequisite for proper operation of the entire system.

Leaves, branches and other small debris get into the system and clog it. The easiest way to remove debris is to use a strong stream of water from a hose. To prevent debris from entering, experts recommend installing special nets on gutters.

Rain is not always good. For example, during precipitation, water flowing from the roofs of buildings can greatly harm them. Falling streams and even drops eventually knock out potholes in the blind area. Water that soaks into the ground near the house can flood the foundation or basement. To avoid all these troubles, moisture must be removed using roof drains.

What elements does the drainage system include?

Before installing a roof drain, it is worth finding out what elements it consists of. The drainage system includes:

• Gutters. This, one might say, is the main element of the entire system. Water enters the gutter directly from the roof, then it flows until it drains. The drain itself is made in the form of a funnel, which is also part of the system. Gutters can be made from various materials and have different shapes.
• Gutter connectors. The length of the roof may vary. The gutters themselves, if they are factory-made, have a certain length. As a rule, you can find products up to 2.5 meters. To create the system, special devices are used - connectors. At corners, other designs are used - corner gutters.
• Brackets and other fastening devices. Serve for fastening gutters and pipes.
• Drain pipe. This is where the water from the gutters goes. The pipe can be either straight or made in the form of an elbow.

In addition to these basic elements, others can be used. For example, mesh for gutters. It prevents large debris from entering the drain and preventing blockages from forming.

In regions with cold winters, it is worth considering anti-icing systems. These may include heating cables, temperature sensors and other devices.

Types of gutters and material used

You can find gutters and pipes of various diameters on sale. So, the first ones are produced in the range from 90 to 150 mm. Pipes can be purchased with diameters from 75 to 120 mm. The choice of sizes will depend on the size of the roof. If the slope area is less than 70 m2, then you can purchase gutters and pipes of the smallest diameter.

In addition to the sizes and shapes themselves (square, round and others), drainage elements differ in the material used. These are mostly metal and plastic.

PVC drainage elements have recently become the most common. Thanks to a special coating (acrylic or titanium dioxide), such products are not afraid of temperature changes, moisture and sunlight. The service life of gutters and pipes made of plastic is about 50 years. Another plus is the low cost.

There are several types of metal gutters and pipes for drains. Let's list the main ones. Namely:

• Cink Steel. This material was often used in the past. But recently, galvanized steel has begun to be replaced by its pural-coated counterpart. This is due to the long service life of the latter. Galvanized iron itself quickly deteriorates under the influence of acid rain. But such material still remains in demand due to its low cost.
• Aluminum. Gutters and pipes made of this metal are lightweight and quite durable. Such products last much longer than galvanized steel, but are also more expensive.
• Copper. Such products are considered the most durable. In addition, they give the roof a sophisticated look. But copper is a very expensive metal, so such gutters are not available to everyone. When installing copper gutters and pipes, it is important to consider one feature. If the roof is made of any metal or there are other metal elements, then such products cannot be installed. The fact is that water, flowing down another metal and falling on copper, will lead to corrosion of the latter.
• Titanium-zinc. This is the most expensive option for water supply system elements. Such gutters can last a century and a half or more.

Roof drain installation

All work can be done in any season, but it is best to do it during the warm period. In the summer, everything can be done much faster and better.

• Before draining the roof, it is worth calculating the necessary materials. Decide where the drainage pipes will be located, how many gutters, brackets, connectors and other elements are needed. It is best to make a preliminary plan and drawing.
• Then start attaching the brackets. It is important to calculate the distance correctly. The fact is that gutters should not be located close to the wall. If the distance between them is less than 6–8 cm, then the wall may not even get wet from water, but from condensation.
• Also, when installing brackets, it is necessary to maintain the inclination of the gutters. It should go to the drain pipe and be 5-20 mm per meter. Therefore, the brackets are not mounted in a straight line, but offset.
• Before fastening, it is worth making markings. To do this, you can do some calculations. For example, if the length of the slope is 8 m, and the slope is 10 mm per meter, then the offset between the first and last bracket should be 80 mm.
• If the length of the roof is significant, then it is necessary to make two drain pipes, they will be located at the edges. In this case, the slope will start in the middle and go in different directions.
• The first and last brackets are attached first. Then a thread is stretched between them, and the remaining brackets are mounted using self-tapping screws. Between the brackets it is necessary to maintain a step of 40-70 cm, depending on the weight of the gutters. Do not forget that the gutters will be attached to each other, which means there should not be a bracket in this place.
• Then the gutters are installed. The method of their installation depends on the model. Plugs are installed along the edges. The last step will be installing the pipes. Its neck should be located directly under the gutter drain. The pipes are attached to the wall using special holders or clamps.
• A drain elbow is installed at the end of the pipes. It will drain water from the roof away from the walls and foundation. If a drainage system is provided on the site, then the elbow should be directed into the water intake.

Choosing the diameter of gutters and downpipes

Modern manufacturers offer a huge number of system options that can be installed both on buildings under construction and on finished houses.

Most home building owners prefer not to delve into the specifics of arranging a stormwater system, relying on the professionalism of construction company employees. However, it won’t hurt to get acquainted with some nuances:

Ideally, all elements should be from one manufacturer. This will ensure reliable installation and no leaks.

When choosing galvanized systems, keep in mind that the unaesthetic appearance of a wide funnel compensates for errors manufacturing of parts.

A roof whose drainage system is made without gutters will not leak due to the reliability of the design. However, you may encounter some difficulties during installation work.

Drainpipes from the roof smoothly transition into sewer pipes hiding underground

The service life of galvanized pipes and systems made from them, with proper care, may exceed 25 years.

Metal systems, coated with zinc polymer material, look attractive, are protected from corrosion, do not require special care and last up to 50 years. In addition, it is possible to order individual designs of gutters and choose a color that matches the design of the house.

Before installing plastic structures in the northern regions, it is necessary to consult with specialists.

Most often, the selection and installation of a drainage system and installation of the roof occur simultaneously, so they also need to be ordered at the same time.

If the building has a complex roof configuration, then to calculate the drains, you will have to conduct a thorough analysis of its area and geometry, as well as the possible maximum volumes of drains. An incorrect calculation will lead to overflowing of the gutters, and the entire drainage system will become useless.

It is also important to choose a drain option that will be in harmony with the roof and facade of the house.

Ultimately, the entire selection process comes down to determining three parameters:

• the material from which the plums will be made;
• dimensions of system elements;
• shapes of elements.

Gutters and their varieties

Rainwater is drained from the roof using gutters, which serve to structurally protect houses from the adverse effects of precipitation from the atmosphere. Melt and rain water can contribute to flooding of the foundation, destruction of the blind area, and damage to the appearance of the building. Roof drains are a system of gutters and pipes that are secured with couplings, connecting elements and other fasteners.

Drainage from the roof, in addition to the absence of accumulations of water near the house, can significantly extend the life of the building's foundation.

Roof drains, having a modern, improved version, can not only protect, but also decorate the facades of buildings.

Plastic plums

• gutters;
• pipes;
• funnels;
• couplings;
• fastening, corner, connecting elements;
• pipes

Installation of a drainage system.

A drain made of bottle plastic is assembled very quickly and is cheap

It is worth preparing:

• furniture stapler and staples 10–12 mm;
• construction knife;
• drill or screwdriver;
• thin drill;
• wire;
• awl;
• plastic container.

The finished design will last at least a year, but then you will have to take care of creating a more advanced system.

Installation of drains

In order to drain the roof, there are several ways.

You can hermetically connect the walls and the slope if you use a drain that has a double overlap. On a roof with a slope of more than 300 degrees, it is necessary to install additional systems of covering flashings and corners.

The width of those parts that are laid on the tiles must be at least 10 cm, and the vertical ones - more than 7.5 cm. The drain corners must be fixed when laying slate tiles or tiles. The vertical parts of the corners should be pressed against the wall. It is blocked from above by a stepped drain. The upper edges of the corners are bent and laid into masonry joints. Then they are secured with wedges and embroidered with cement mortar.

You can make metal drains on the roof, where the covering is profiled tiles, using a single overlap. In such cases, on the roof, a sheet of metal is inserted with one edge into the masonry seam, and the second is lowered and placed behind the next side of the ridge.

Rectangular and round sections of gutters.

There are systems with two types of sections: rectangular and round.

When installing a drain to drain rainwater yourself, it should be taken into account that the rectangular cross-section of the drain is more difficult to install, but allows you to give the structure a modern and attractive look.

For any type of roofing it is possible to choose a suitable color scheme. Installation of a square profile is recommended in areas where there is a large amount of precipitation. In such situations, the device helps ensure better water drainage.

The elements included in the PVC drain kit can be attached to each other with glue or using a rigid coupling, which is the rubberized components of the structure.

Adhesive joints are considered the most reliable and easier to install.

Rubber can become unusable and lose its quality properties. Various debris can become clogged in the connections, which will create obstacles to the normal operation of drainage systems.

Plastic drains have stiffening ribs that give strength to the system. But, if you do not follow the rules for installing drains. all these design advantages are reduced to zero.

Some features of drain installation.

Installation requirements:

• the gap between fastenings should be no more than 60 cm;
• one drainpipe should serve a roof whose area does not exceed 100 m2;
• the total slope of the drain should be 0.5 cm per linear meter;
• if it is necessary to install connectors, funnels, corners, the nearest bracket is located at a distance of no more than 5 cm;
• to avoid rainwater leaking onto the roof, the outer side of the pipe must have a slope of 0.5 cm.

Cement roof drainage systems have a number of advantages: reliable operation, ease of installation and relatively low cost. A significant drawback is shrinkage. Today, such systems are used very rarely. They are often found in pitched roofs of old buildings.

Comfort in the home depends on the quality of the sewer system. To avoid unpleasant odor and water leakage, it is necessary to take care of the tightness of the connections, make the correct slope, and select the diameter of the pipes. Reliable operation of the system also depends on which sewerage pipes are selected. Today, builders and plumbers prefer plastic for its lightness and durability.

Advantage of plastic pipes

About 30 years ago there were no traces of plastic pipes. Internal sewer systems were made primarily of cast iron. The material does not rust for a long time and is reliable, but the installation of such pipes caused a lot of problems due to their heavy weight. In addition, the inner surface of cast iron is rough, which leads to frequent blockages. Repairing or dismantling them is also problematic.

Cast iron was replaced by pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene and polyethylene. The cost of plastic is relatively low, it is light in weight, plastic pipes are easy to cut, join, and dismantle.

• Polyethylene pipes (PE) are characterized by an operating temperature of 40-50 °C.
• Polypropylene pipes (PP) can withstand temperatures up to 95 °C, the operating temperature is 65 °C, they are durable and elastic.
• PVC pipes have a working temperature of 45 °C, they are highly rigid, easy to bend and connect to other elements.

Thus, where there is a hot drain, it is better to install PP pipes, and PVC is quite suitable for cold drains. Another advantage of polypropylene is that its price is lower than PVC.

Plastic drainage has one drawback - noise during the passage of water. To reduce noise, pipes are secured with clamps with rubber gaskets or sound-absorbing material is used.

Photo: Connecting a plastic pipe to a cast iron pipe

Replacing sewer drain pipes

The need to install a new sewerage system arises when old pipes are rusty, covered with scale on the inside or cracked fittings and do not perform their functions. Often, installation is carried out if the layout of the apartment is changed, an extension is made to the house, or plumbing fixtures are added.

• First you need to dismantle the old drain. Sometimes this takes more than one hour.
• Measurements and calculations are made to know how many meters of pipes are required, what diameter to choose and what fittings need to be purchased.
• Buy PP or PVC pipes and connecting elements.

Before dismantling the drain, the room is completely cleared of foreign objects and furniture that interfere with work. It is necessary to turn off the water, disconnect the drain hoses, remove the bathtub, sink, and toilet.

Photo: Sewer drain diagram

Next, you need to count all the devices to which the drain will be connected (sink in the kitchen and bathroom, toilet, washing machine, shower, etc.). Draw schematic diagrams of the devices, as well as their connections, to understand how to properly install the pipes.

The drain pipe for the toilet is taken with a diameter of 100 mm, and for draining from other devices, a pipe of 50 mm is sufficient. This diameter will ensure stable operation of the system.

Installation will be much simpler if all the parts for the sewer system are from one manufacturer. Silicone sealant helps ensure a tight joint, so you need to buy that too.

Dismantling the old sewer

Repairs cannot be performed without the appropriate tools. Make sure you have:

• impact drill or hammer drill to hammer the floor, wall;
• a hacksaw for cutting pipes or a grinder;
• hammer and chisel for dismantling old sewers and other utility work;
• adjustable wrench and screwdriver;
• laser level;
• tape measure and pencil;
• gun for squeezing out sealant.

Cast iron pipes located far from the riser are broken with a hammer and chisel. But pipes connected through a tee to the riser are disassembled with caution. They are cut off at a distance of more than 10 cm from the bell. The remaining piece is rocked in the bell and pulled out. If it is firmly seated, then you can make several cuts around the perimeter with a grinder. A chisel and hammer help to disconnect the pipes.

The socket in the riser is cleaned, a cuff is placed in it, and sealant is squeezed into the joint. This is how the installation of new communications begins.

Installation of new pipes

The task of the sewer system is to collect wastewater together and discharge it to one common pipe connected to a riser. To do this, lay a main pipe to which all plumbing fixtures are connected using tees.

When draining, you should take into account the slope of the pipes so that wastewater goes into the riser without delay. You can ensure that the slope is maintained by marking it on the wall. First, determine the horizon line using a level. The line should run through the center of the hole in the riser. Then the points where the toilet, bathtub and other devices are connected are raised to the required height.

Required slopes and diameters of drainage pipes

Device	Slope	Distance between central drain and siphon without ventilation, cm	Diameter of pipes for drainage systems, mm
Bath	1:30	100-130	40
Shower	1:48	150-170	40
Toilet	1:20	up to 600	100
Sink	1:12	0-80	40
Bidet	1:20	70-100	30-40
Washing	1:36	130-150	30-40
Bath, sink, shower (combined drain)	1:48	170-230	50
Central riser			100
Branches from this riser			65-75

To connect a wide pipe from the toilet to the main branch, the installation of adapters with a rotation angle of 45° is required. If you need to make a turn on the way to the connection, the angle of rotation should also be 45° so that the system does not clog.

In hard-to-reach places, it is convenient to connect the toilet to the sewer through a corrugated cuff. It bends at any angle and extends in length.

First, short structures are assembled, then they are mounted into one common highway. Inside an apartment or house, sewer pipes are installed without welding, inserting them into one another without distortions and until they stop. To ensure a reliable connection, a sealant is used. It is applied to the joints, and only after that the pipes are installed.

When the installation is completed, the drain is checked by opening all the taps. If you correctly calculate the scheme and make hermetically sealed connections, the new sewer system will last for decades.

Every homeowner should understand how a sink drain system works. This will allow you to disassemble it yourself and carry out preventive maintenance. Equally important is the correct choice of fittings. After all, its quality affects the service life of all plumbing equipment. What nuances should be taken into account?

How does the drain work?

A pipe for draining water from a sink is a part that connects the entrance to the sewer and the drain hole at the bottom of the bowl. This is a mandatory element, the installation of which is carried out when installing a bath, sink or shower. It is a prefabricated curved structure consisting of the following elements:

• exhaust pipe;
• body, or glass;
• cuffs and seals made of rubber or plastic;
• protective metal grid for the drain hole;
• fixing screw;
• plastic nuts.

There are also plums with overflow. They differ from ordinary ones by the presence of an additional drain hole located above the main one. It is connected to the siphon body by corrugation. The overflow prevents the sink from overflowing and water from spilling out of the bowl.

The drain pipe performs different functions. For example, it ensures timely and efficient transfer of dirty water from the sink into the sewer. It also filters out small debris and hair. In addition, the siphon prevents unpleasant odors from the sewer from entering the room. The part is designed in such a way that a natural water barrier (water seal) is formed in it.

Kinds

Depending on the shape and configuration, bottle and pipe types of drains are distinguished. A bottle device is a device in which a water seal is created by two cylinders immersed in each other. First, the water passes through the inner tube of the siphon flask. Then it enters the sump and rises into the drain pipe through the gap between the cylinders. Next - into the sewer.

Pipe drain systems do not have a bottle-like body. They consist of one curved pipe in the shape of the letter S or U. Water pressure is formed due to the bends. Such structures are rarely used, since they do not have a sump. The advantage is easy installation. Flexible corrugated pipe can take any shape.

Depending on the location, sinks with a central and side drain are distinguished. In the first case, the drain hole is located in the middle of the bottom of the bowl. Thanks to this, water does not stagnate in the sink. The disadvantage of this arrangement of the drain pipe is that you cannot install furniture or household appliances under the sink.

In the second case, the drain is located on the back wall of the bowl. It is convenient because the siphon body can be moved outside the sink. The sink can be installed above a cabinet or washing machine. Disadvantage: the water does not completely drain from the bowl. Limescale deposits form on the bottom of the plumbing fixtures.

Manufacturing materials

The material of the drain pipe is an important selection factor. It affects the functionality of the fittings and its service life. The most commonly used are various metals and their alloys - brass, copper, cast iron. Advantages: strength, resistance to household detergents, durability, safety for health. Disadvantages: suitable for the manufacture of pipe-type drains only. The products have a rigid shape, making them difficult to install.

Recently, plums have been made from durable, lightweight and inexpensive polymers. They can be given almost any shape. Thanks to this, the range of pipes is very wide. The products are highly resistant to corrosion. Disadvantages: service life is much shorter than metal ones. If the washbasin is used actively, the plastic pipes have to be changed frequently. The material is corroded by aggressive household products. Dirt and debris settle on the corrugation. Also a weak point are the connections between the elements (due to the low waterproofing properties of the plastic).

Features of choice

The performance of drain pipes depends on how they are designed, on the water pressure from the mixer and household appliances (dishwashers, washing machines). The larger the volume of drained water, the larger the cross-section of the outlets and the device. For example, if the sink is installed in the kitchen, then it is advisable to choose a part with a drain pipe diameter of 40 mm. Food residues will pass through the drain system. Gradually they accumulate and clog the pipes.

When choosing a pipe for draining water from a sink, consider its type, diameter, and water pressure.

When choosing fittings, be sure to evaluate the quality of its manufacture, completeness, reliability of the supplied screws, nuts and gaskets. If your budget is limited, go for the standard white plastic model. It is cheaper, easier to install and stable in operation.

Drain assembly

The process of connecting the drain depends on the type of siphon design. Its general algorithm is presented below.

• A drain pipe and a mesh with a gasket are fixed to the drain hole of the sink.
• The main part of the siphon is assembled (if the element is a glass type) and attached to the sink with a screw. It is connected to the pipe by a rubber cuff and a nut.
• A drain pipe and a rubber seal are inserted into the sewer socket.
• Water is supplied for a short time. The tightness of the device and its connections is checked.

Mechanical removal of blockages

The sink drain pipe may become clogged. Removal of the plug depends on the type of structure. If the drain is a glass type, there is a lid at the bottom. Unscrew it and remove the debris by hand. If it is made in the form of a corrugation, remove it from the sewer pipe, release it from the clips and straighten it. If necessary, push the blockage with a cable or wooden rod. Do this carefully so as not to damage the corrugation.

If the siphon is not removable or a blockage has occurred in the sewer pipes, it can be eliminated in two ways: mechanically and chemically. The simplest mechanical method is cleaning with a plunger. Place a small amount of water in a bowl. It should cover the drain hole. Plug the overflow hole. Place the rubber bulb on the drain and make several active movements. If the water does not go away, repeat the procedure. Once the blockage is cleared, fill the pan with hot water.

A plumbing cable will help deal with a serious traffic jam. Proceed in the following sequence: guide the end of the cable into the sewer through the drain hole. Slowly turn it clockwise. Make sure that the cable does not sag or twist during operation. When you reach the stop, perform several back-and-forth movements. It will destroy him. Then the cable must be removed and washed with water.

Chemical removal of blockages

If there is no plumbing cable, remove the blockage chemically. There are special formulations for this. Before you purchase a product, make sure it is suitable for your type of pipe. The most popular are “Mole”, “Tiret”, “Mr. Muscle”, etc. They are produced both in the form of dry powder and in liquid form. The principle of their operation is the same.

Clean the pipes as follows: scoop out the water from the bowl. Fill or pour the product into the drain hole. Leave the sink like this for 1.5–2 hours. After the specified time, fill the sink with a small amount of water. Perform several active thrusts with the plunger. After these manipulations, the water forms a funnel and goes into the sewer. Wear gloves when using aggressive substances. Avoid contact with clothing or skin. If this happens, rinse the affected area with plenty of water.

Preventing blockages

Maintenance of the sink drainage system comes down to preventing blockages. It consists of the steps described below.

• Periodic heat treatment of pipes. To do this, just pour a pan of hot water or boiling water into the sink 2-3 times a week.
• Prevent food debris, hair, etc. from getting into the sink. To do this, install a mesh on the plumbing fixture.
• Correct choice of sewer pipe diameter. Optimal values ​​are at least 40–50 mm.

Pipes for draining water from a sink come in different types and may include a siphon of complex design. In all cases, the principle of connection and further maintenance is the same. When choosing fittings, give preference only to high-quality materials - metal, plastic. Carefully check the compliance of pipe sections, use rubber gaskets and sealants. Remove minor blockages in a timely manner. A plunger, plumbing cable and chemicals will help you with this. If a blockage has formed deep in the sewer pipes, seek professional help.