High-quality thermal insulation is the key to maximum comfort in using a bathhouse and a guarantee of no extra heating costs. Insulation is carried out on 4 main surfaces: roof, walls, floor and ceiling.

It is with the nuances of arranging the thermal insulation of the last mentioned structure that you are invited to familiarize yourself further. While studying the information below, you will consider important information about insulation in general, the properties of existing thermal insulation materials, and also receive instructions for independently carrying out the relevant technological stages of work.

Heat leakage from a room can occur in three main ways:

• through cracks in the ceiling structure;
• when heat transfers to cold objects in the environment;
• when heated air masses pass through various types of monolithic/homogeneous barriers.

To eliminate all of these problems, a multilayer ceiling structure is installed, which includes, among other things, a layer of heat-insulating material. If insulation is performed incorrectly or is completely absent, condensation will begin to form on the floors, warming up the room will require much more time and, therefore, more significant expenditure of energy resources.

A standard insulation scheme for a ceiling structure is shown in the following image.

Helpful advice! Try to lay each subsequent insulating layer perpendicular to the previous one. This will allow you to obtain the most reliable design with minimal deformation indicators.

Nuances of insulating the ceiling in a two-tier bathhouse

In accordance with the design features of the structure, baths can be divided into 2 large groups: those with an attic/attic floor and those without one. The standard scheme for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse without an upper tier was presented above. The procedure for thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with more than 1 floor deserves separate consideration.

The technology for constructing a bathhouse with an attic floor involves installing a ceiling structure that is much more powerful in its performance. An additional obstacle to the flowing warm air masses will be the space under the roof itself, as well as, to some extent, the roof structure itself.

In bathhouses that do not have an attic/attic tier, warm air masses encounter much fewer obstacles, and their strength is also noticeably lower. Despite this, ceiling structures both in bathhouses with an upper tier and in buildings without one need high-quality and competent insulation.

Examples of proper ceiling insulation in a bathhouse with an attic/attic are shown in the following image.

Important note! If the ceiling is made of logs, a sheathing is installed on the side of the bathhouse, the logs are covered with a vapor barrier, a 20-centimeter layer of sand is poured on top and then insulation is carried out according to the standard scheme. Skull boards can be mounted on top of logs.

The design of the ceiling and roof of a bathhouse without an attic is as follows.

Insulation – that’s all the protection, or what other materials should be used

Regardless of the design of the bath ceiling, the installation of insulation is carried out in conjunction with a vapor barrier (in some cases its use is not necessary; this point will be discussed separately later).

The vapor barrier layer prevents the formation of wet vapors from settling in the “body” of the thermal insulation, which is very important, because moisture accumulating in the insulation has an extremely negative effect on the quality and service life of the insulation, increases the weight of the protective layer and reduces its insulating characteristics.

Foil vapor barrier on the ceiling and walls


Natural drying oil used to impregnate cardboard

Vapor barrier can be done using relatively inexpensive materials:

• aluminum foil;
• wax paper;
• compacted cardboard, pre-impregnated with drying oil;
• clay (for such insulation, the ceiling boards on the attic side are coated with approximately a 20-mm layer of clay).

You can create a better vapor barrier with modern factory-produced materials, Among which the following options are most often used:

• polyethylene film. It is good as a waterproofing material, but occasionally (usually in the absence of other available options) it is also used as a vapor barrier. The disadvantage is the creation of a greenhouse effect. To allow condensation to evaporate, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap when attaching the polyethylene film;
• vapor barrier with lint. It is made on the basis of polyethylene film. Special bristles are designed to retain condensed moisture;
• membrane vapor barrier.

Polyethylene film. Recommended thickness 20-400 microns

Universal water vapor barrier materials are also available for sale. They cost slightly more than their listed analogues, but in terms of quality and reliability they are noticeably in the lead.

The use of waterproofing films is advisable in cases where mineral wool or expanded clay is used for insulation. The functions of moisture protection, as noted, are most often assigned to a polyethylene film laid on top of the insulation and providing its reliable protection from moisture coming from the attic or roof.

Helpful advice! If you wish, you can use modern material made from mineral wool and equipped with a foil layer to insulate the bathhouse ceiling. The use of this allows you to avoid laying additional hydro- and vapor barrier layers.

When arranging a thermal insulation layer, be sure to remember the fire safety rules. The distance between the smoke exhaust pipe and any flammable elements (for example, sheathing slats for insulation are most often made of wood) should be at least 20-30 cm. In this case, a box made of non-combustible material, for example, steel, is built around the pipe. The space between the chimney and the walls of the box is filled with expanded clay or other non-combustible material.

As for the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, this parameter is determined, firstly, by the climatic conditions at the location of the bathhouse, and secondly, by the characteristics of the selected insulation. On average, they focus on an indicator of 15-20 cm, changing it in accordance with the reasons indicated above.

Prices for a roll of waterproofing

roll of waterproofing

How to insulate a bath ceiling?

Thermal insulation of a bath ceiling can be done using different methods - both the “old-fashioned” method, which involves the use of free or almost free materials, and the modern one, using highly effective insulation materials. You can find information about popular thermal insulation materials that are suitable for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse in the following table.

Table. Materials for thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bathhouse

Material	Description
	An old and rarely used method for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse. Insulation is carried out from the outside of the room, i.e. in the under-roof space. The procedure is as follows: - a layer of crumpled clay is laid. The recommended thickness is 20-25 mm; - sawdust is laid on top of the clay. They will take on the functions of thermal insulation material. The thickness, as noted, should be selected taking into account the local climatic conditions. Usually they stick to 10-15 cm; - a 10-15 cm layer of dry earth is laid on top of the sawdust. The result is fairly effective thermal insulation without financial costs. However, its service life in practice is noticeably lower than other available insulation materials.
	Relatively inexpensive thermal insulation material. Expanded clay is very convenient to use, especially if a large area is being insulated. To ensure high efficiency of the thermal insulation layer, its thickness must be at least 30 cm. Important! Expanded clay does not tolerate contact with moisture well and requires high-quality waterproofing.
	A very popular artificial insulation, the production of which is carried out using basalt, limestone, as well as dolomite and diabase. Among the many advantages of mineral wool, it is necessary to highlight: - high thermal insulation properties; - fire resistance; - long service life.
	It is made by processing waste paper and antiseptics into a material consisting of many very thin wood fibers. It is problematic to independently insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse using ecowool - the technology for constructing this material requires the use of special equipment, but such a possibility exists. Among the advantages of insulation are: - excellent thermal insulation performance; - environmental safety; - relatively low price.
	Lightweight foil-coated material is perfect for insulating a bathhouse. The presence of foil is an additional advantage - the material will not only retain heat, but also reflect it back into the room. Thanks to this, the practical costs of heating the steam room can be reduced by up to 2-3 times. For greater efficiency, foamed polypropylene is usually used in combination with other materials. Most often this is mineral wool.
	A good option for arranging quick and relatively budget-friendly insulation - the cost of penoizol is much lower compared to other popular thermal insulation materials. Additional advantages of penoizol are good noise insulation properties and fire resistance. The material is sprayed using special equipment (the need to rent/purchase it or involve third-party specialists is the only significant drawback of this insulation option), which makes it possible to easily and quickly fill even the most inaccessible areas.
	Relatively recently it began to be used as insulation. Growing aerated concrete is characterized by low thermal conductivity, good noise insulation properties and has a number of additional advantages, including: - relatively low cost; - environmental Safety; - high speed of work; - fire resistance; - long service life; - resistance to moisture. To install such insulation, permanent formwork is installed. If possible, it is recommended to make it from glass-magnesium sheets.

Helpful advice! It is better to refrain from insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse using polystyrene foam - it is known that when heated, this material can release substances that have a negative effect on human health.

Next, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the instructions for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse using various materials. Both options will be considered, the implementation of which is possible without the presence of any highly specialized skills and the need to involve third-party contractors, and in general, information will be provided on the insulation materials available for use.

Expanded clay is a popular inexpensive thermal insulation material, the filling of which can be done on your own without any problems.

By its nature, expanded clay is granular clay that has undergone sintering at high temperatures; its structure is a porous stone. The material is of no interest to insects, harmful bacteria, rodents and other possible pests. Biological decomposition of expanded clay also does not occur. You don’t have to worry about the material releasing substances harmful to humans, as well as about the fire safety of such insulation: it simply does not support combustion.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with expanded clay will differ slightly depending on whether the ceiling is concrete or whether wooden elements were used for its arrangement. First, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the procedure for insulating concrete floors. Information regarding each process step is given in the table.

Table. Insulation of concrete floors with expanded clay

Work stage	Description
	The concrete floor does not require any preliminary preparation before insulation. Even differences in height are not an obstacle. Of course, if there are any, you will have to spend more insulation, but the costs of this are disproportionately small compared to the costs of installing a leveling screed. It is more convenient if slats are attached to the base (wooden beam, metal profile, etc.), but this is not necessary. If you have them, it will simply be more convenient for you to check the evenness of the surface, but there are other, less labor-intensive methods.
	The base is covered with a layer of insulation of the selected thickness (from 30 cm). To level the expanded clay, you can use any convenient tool at hand, for example, a rake. Checking the thickness of the backfill layer is very simple: you take a reinforcement rod, glue a piece of electrical tape to it at a height corresponding to the required layer thickness, and stick the rod into the backfill. These simple manipulations will allow you to understand where the insulation is not enough, and in which places it needs to be removed. If a finishing layer is planned to be installed in the under-roof space (for example, pouring screed or laying plasterboard sheets), the backfill must be leveled. To do this, you can place 2 even boards at a certain distance (along the length of the level) from each other, set a level on them (as shown in the figure) and determine the presence of deviations.
	As noted, expanded clay absorbs moisture, which does not have the best effect on its thermal insulation properties. In view of this, the backfill is subject to mandatory waterproofing. The best option is thick polyethylene film. Insulation sheets are laid with a 10-15 cm overlap. The joints are taped with construction tape. In addition, it is recommended to lay the film with a similar overlap on the walls of the room and also seal the joints with tape. At this point, the insulation of the concrete floor is ready. The further procedure in terms of finishing is determined by the characteristics of a particular project and the wishes of the owner.

Thus, there are absolutely no difficulties with insulating concrete floors using expanded clay. The installation of such thermal insulation over a wooden floor has a number of features. You can find all the necessary information in the following table.

Important! Although expanded clay is a porous and lightweight material, a 30-centimeter (or even more) layer of backfill will have quite an impressive weight. It is possible to insulate a wooden floor with expanded clay only if the ceiling has a sufficient margin of safety. For example, if its internal cladding is made not simply by filing OSB from below, but additional fastening of the slabs is also provided by means of sheathing connected with studs to the beams.

Table. Insulation of wooden floors with expanded clay

Work stage	Description
	For this, it is best to use modern membrane materials. It is assumed that the ceiling filing (the optimal method was discussed above) has already been completed. The insulation is fastened from the side of the under-roof space (attic, attic). The vapor barrier must cover not only the space between the floor beams, but also the beams themselves. Sheets of material are laid with a 10-15 cm overlap on the walls and a similar overlap in relation to each other. The joints are taped with construction tape. Helpful advice! Under the weight of the expanded clay, the insulating material will sink. In view of this, fastening the insulation with tension is excluded, otherwise it may break.
	Expanded clay is poured into the space between the floor beams and leveled in any convenient way, for example, with a garden rake. Be careful not to damage the vapor barrier material laid underneath. At first, floor beams will help you control the evenness of the backfill. If the thickness of the backfill exceeds the height of the installed beams, for orientation, use the method described in the instructions for insulating a concrete floor (using a reinforcement rod and a strip of electrical tape). Helpful advice! If you plan to install a finished floor in the future, make sure that the backfill level is 1-2 cm below the future flooring. Otherwise, due to the rubbing of expanded clay granules, it will seem that the floor creaks when walking.
	To ensure proper moisture protection, a thick polyethylene film is suitable. Recommendations regarding overlaps and sealing joints are the same as in the case of laying vapor barrier material. At this point the insulation is ready. The decision regarding the further course of action remains with the owner. As a rule, finishing flooring is laid directly on the beams or on top of the joists mounted across them (if proper arrangement of the attic floor is planned) and the room is used at the discretion of the owner.

Video - Insulation with expanded clay

Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool

Mineral wool up to 5-10 cm thick is produced in roll format. The material is unwound, cut to the required length using an ordinary knife and placed in the required place.

Insulation with a thickness of more than 10 cm is sold in the form of mats, laid between the joists/rafters and/lathing elements in a spacer. As a rule, additional fixation is not required.

In other cases, it may be necessary to attach heat-insulating elements. The specific fixation method is selected in accordance with the density of the insulation and the distance between the lags (rafters, sheathing elements, etc.). In addition to laying in the spacer, there are several other mounting options:

• the insulation can be fixed using a stapler or a special supporting metal plate and a screw/screw;
• fixation can be ensured using lathing made of slats mounted under the insulation;
• fastening of mineral wool can be done using a mesh stretched from durable nylon thread/rope.

It is assumed that the ceiling has already been lined before insulation. The further procedure is given in the table.

Important! Before working with mineral wool, be sure to wear personal protective equipment: a respirator, goggles and gloves. If possible, it is also recommended to wear special protective overalls.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Table. Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool

Work stage	Description
	The boards from the inside of the room are hemmed to the floor beams. Insulation is carried out from the side of the under-roof room. In this case, the insulation can be conveniently placed in the space between the floor beams. If the height of the beams is not enough to create a layer of the required thickness, or if the space between the beams exceeds the width of the insulating elements being laid, it may be necessary to attach additional battens. For fixing, self-tapping screws/anchors are used of such a length that the fastener penetrates at least 25 mm into a wooden surface, and at least 40 mm into a stone surface.
	Glassine, membrane vapor barrier or other selected material covers the floor beams (laths) and the space between them. The strips are laid with a 10-15 cm overlap on each other and on the walls. The joints are sealed with construction tape. Additional fixation of the insulating material to the beams/battens can be done using a construction stapler.
	The space between the beams/ slats is alternately filled with mineral wool. The elements are laid as tightly as possible - any gaps will lead to a deterioration in thermal insulation performance.
	A layer of waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene film, is laid on top of the mineral wool. Recommendations regarding overlaps, sealing and fastening are the same as for vapor barriers. After completing the installation of thermal insulation and accompanying insulating layers, a finished floor is laid in the under-roof room or other work is performed at the discretion of the owner.

Video - Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Ceiling insulation with ecowool

Ceiling insulation with ecowool - sample

Ecowool is an environmentally friendly, durable and generally effective thermal insulation material. Available in the form of an unmolded mass consisting of cellulose fibers. In fact, it is a bulk material. To make ecowool more convenient to transport and store, it is slightly compressed and sold in the form of briquettes. Before using for its intended purpose, the material is unpacked and fluffed, as a result of which it increases three to four times in volume.

Professional builders use special equipment to apply ecowool. First, a slightly moistened material is sprayed onto the surface to be equipped, after which the frame is filled with dry ecowool, which is pumped using powerful compressors. In fact, the need to use special equipment is the only significant disadvantage of ecowool.

Along with this, insulation of a small area, for example, the ceiling of a compact bathhouse, can easily be done manually. You will have to spend more time and material on this, but the quality of thermal insulation will be quite good.

Recommendations regarding the installation of lathing and insulating layers (in general, ecowool is usually applied without vapor and waterproofing, but for greater reliability when manually applying insulation, it is recommended to install these layers) remain the same as in the case of mineral wool in the previous instructions, therefore are not considered separately.

Manual insulation with ecowool is performed using the dry method. The essence of the action comes down to filling the lathing mounted on the ceiling with material.

Before using it for its intended purpose, ecowool is placed in a plastic container and fluffed up using a drill with an attachment for preparing mortars.

After fluffing, the material is poured into the space between the beams/slats.

After backfilling, the ecowool is carefully compacted. Tamping can be completed only after the material begins to absorb the forces exerted.

Important! In order for manual insulation with ecowool to be of the highest quality, it is necessary to determine the required mass of material. The formula is simple: m (mass of ecowool) = S (area of ​​the cell into which the insulation is poured) * L (thickness of the thermal insulation layer) * P (required insulation density, in the case of horizontal surfaces - 45 kg/m3).

After filling the sheathing with insulation, waterproofing and the selected sheathing material are laid on top.

Video - Manual application of ecowool

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with foamed polypropylene

Foamed polypropylene, foamed polyethylene, penofol and others like them - all these materials have a similar structure and are mounted in a similar way. The insulation materials under consideration are extremely simple to install, but in most cases their capabilities are not enough to ensure proper thermal insulation performance. That is why foamed polypropylene and other similar materials are used in combination with other insulation materials, for example, mineral wool. This combination provides the highest quality heat saving in the room being equipped.

Insulation instructions are given in the following table.

Prices for foamed polypropylene

foamed polypropylene

Table. Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with foamed polypropylene

Work stage	Description
	First of all, the surface must be cleaned of dirt and dust, and various irregularities must be eliminated. After this, the base can be coated with a special primer, the use of which will help increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the materials. Next, sheets of insulating material are simply attached to the surface. It will be most convenient to install using a special adhesive for penofol (pre-check the procedure for preparation and use in the manufacturer’s instructions, since provisions in this regard may change). The joints are sealed with foil tape.
	Sheathing slats are attached on top of the first layer of insulation. The thickness of the slats is in accordance with the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, the installation step is according to the width of the insulation. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or anchors, depending on the base material.
	The space between the slats is filled with a second layer of insulation. Mineral wool is ideal. The slabs are laid in cells in a spacer and do not require additional fixation (further secured cladding will do an excellent job of this). Thermal insulation is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material. The sheets are laid with a 10-15 cm wide overlap on each other and on the walls. The joints are taped with construction tape. A construction stapler with staples or small nails work well for attaching the vapor barrier to the sheathing slats.
	Finally, the ceiling is finished with the selected material. In a bathhouse, this is usually lining or OSB. The image shows a method of insulation with polypropylene foam only. This option is appropriate only in regions where the air temperature almost never drops below zero. Otherwise, it is more appropriate to use combined thermal insulation.

Video - Installation and insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse

Video - How to insulate a ceiling

To ensure that the insulation with foil foamed polypropylene is of the highest quality, during the work process, follow a number of the following recommendations:

• Carefully glue the joints between individual sheets of heat-insulating material. If you don't have tape, you can go over the seams with silicone sealant. You cannot leave joints untreated - the quality of thermal insulation will deteriorate significantly;
• try to install individual insulation elements so that they do not meet at the junction of the ceiling with adjacent walls;

  

• prevent contact of electrical wires and cables with the foil side of the heat-insulating material. It is known that aluminum conducts electricity very well, which is why the areas where the wires come into contact with the foil must be carefully insulated;

  

• Do not glue sheets of foamed polypropylene overlapping. If moist air gets through the overlap gap onto the inner surface of the insulation, condensation will form, which is extremely undesirable.

  

Penoizol as a thermal insulation material

Penoizol is an excellent thermal insulation material with many positive characteristics, including:

• economic benefit - such insulation requires much more modest financial costs compared to the installation of double-sided thermal insulation;
• high quality;
• fire resistance;
• long service life;
• not susceptible to rot and mold.

Insulation technology comes down to covering the insulated base and filling the existing voids with material supplied to the site in a liquid state and applied using special equipment. In its properties, hardened penoizol is in many ways similar to penoplex.

The possibility of independently insulating the ceiling with foam insulation is limited.

1. Firstly, it is unlikely that anyone will want to spend money on purchasing very expensive equipment or at least renting it.
2. Secondly, application of the material requires strict adherence to technology and the involvement of qualified performers. Violating the established rules will not allow you to obtain a protective layer of the required quality.

Thus, if you plan to entrust the work of arranging the thermal insulation of a bath ceiling to third-party contractors, be sure to consider using penoizol as insulation, especially if you are insulating a concrete floor. Using artificial material in combination with a wooden ceiling is not the best solution - the environmental friendliness of the building will be deteriorated.

Video - Penoizol insulation

Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling with growing aerated concrete

Growing aerated concrete is suitable for processing concrete floors. Two types of growing aerated concrete can be used as insulation: thermal insulation (density is about 400-600 kg/m3) and thermal insulation-structural (600-900 kg/m3). The main components of growing aerated concrete are cement and a dry pore-forming mixture. The material can be purchased in the form of a ready-made semi-finished product, which is very convenient - to prepare the filling, all you have to do is add water to it, the optimal amount of which will be given in the attached instructions (check individually, since the appropriate value may differ for different mixtures).

In fact, when pouring growing aerated concrete, it is not insulation in its classical sense that is performed, but the surface is sealed. The material fills all cracks and voids, making heat loss through the ceiling much lower.

If these are not available, you can use other suitable materials, for example, polystyrene foam.

The technology for assembling formwork from glass-magnesium sheets is not much different from constructing a wooden structure: individual sheets are assembled into a kind of box without a bottom or lid. The sheets are fastened using self-tapping screws for sheet plasterboard.

The growing aerated concrete is poured from the under-roof space. The formwork can be installed over the entire insulated area at once, or, if it is too large, the space can be divided into several sections and each one can have its own formwork installed.

When assembling formwork from glass-magnesium sheets, observe several important requirements:

• use only dry sheets. A wet glass-magnesium sheet bends, which causes inconvenience during the cutting process;
• install glass-magnesium sheets so that their fibers are oriented vertically - this will allow you to obtain a structure with more significant strength;
• cutting the material must be done on a flat, solid base. The glass-magnesium sheet is laid with the smooth side up. It is recommended to do the actual cutting with an electric jigsaw. If there is none, make a cut from the edge of the sheet with a sharp knife, then, using a ruler like a guide, break off part of the product.

After installing the formwork, all that remains is to prepare the growing aerated concrete in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and fill it with a uniform, even layer.

Important! Growing aerated concrete got its name for a reason. After pouring the mixture, its components enter into an intense reaction, during which the volume of the solution almost doubles. Be sure to take this point into account, firstly, when determining the height of the formwork, and secondly, in the process of preparing the required volume of the mixture. For information regarding the time required for strength gain and full increase in volume, also check the manufacturer's instructions. After completing the mentioned processes, you can equip an additional thermal insulation layer using any of the materials discussed above.

Video - Insulation with growing aerated concrete

You have become familiar with the features of the most commonly used thermal insulation materials, which are optimally suited for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse. Choose the option you like and begin performing the appropriate activities, following the provisions of the instructions you have studied.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse

The only thing worse than not having a bath is a cold bath. Those who do not want to face such a problem in the future think about insulation in advance. This will significantly reduce wood consumption. Before insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to choose a suitable material for this and carefully study the technology.

When the bathhouse ceiling needs insulation

The laws of physics state that warm air is lighter than cold air, which means it tends to rise. The ceiling restricts this movement, causing it to accumulate in the upper part of the room. Then a lot depends on the thermal conductivity of the ceiling itself. If it is not insulated with anything, it causes a loss of 20% of heat. It is quite possible that for a summer bathhouse with a full firewood rack this is not a problem. In all other cases, you should take care of reducing heat loss and insulate the ceiling yourself.

Insulation is also useful for those who do not want to spend the whole day on the firebox, because it is easier to fill the ladle if it does not leak. It's the same with heat.

Which method to choose for insulation inside and outside the room?

The choice of insulation method is influenced by what is located above the ceiling - a cold attic, a residential attic or a flat roof with a low slope, which leaves minimal attic space. In total, there are only three methods for arranging the ceiling:

• grazing;
• hemmed;
• panel.

Flat ceiling insulated with expanded clay, clay and sawdust

For those who have an attic, but do not want to turn it into a warm warehouse or recreation room, the design of a flat ceiling is suitable. It is considered the simplest, since you are not supposed to walk in the attic, which means there is no need even for floor beams. The rough ceiling is placed on the frame of the building, that is, directly on the walls.

Important! There are limitations associated with this. The boards will withstand a layer of insulation if their length is no more than 2.5 m with a board thickness of 4–5 cm.

Different materials can be used, but the structure of the “pie” is the same in any case. It consists of layers (from top to bottom):

• insulation;
• wax paper;
• boards;
• vapor barriers;
• finished ceiling.

The vapor barrier material must not only be hydrophobic, but also withstand high temperatures, so its choice is limited. Most often, foil is used as a vapor barrier. The last layer is made of expanded clay (slag) or clay with straw.

In the first case, expanded clay is poured in a layer of 20 to 30 cm onto a layer of waxed paper (so that it does not spill through the cracks). This thickness is enough for the thermal insulation properties of this material to manifest themselves. Expanded clay fractions should be taken different so that the small ones fill the voids between the large ones.

Often, before filling, divider boards are placed on the rough ceiling from the attic side.

In the second case, the clay is soaked, and then straw or sawdust is added to it. There is another way. First, a 5 cm layer of clay is laid and allowed to stand for 4 days. Then the cracks are covered with fresh mortar, and a 10 cm layer of oak leaves is placed on top. Then clay again, but dry (5 cm).

On the side of the bathhouse, a vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, which is sealed with metal tape. Next, a sheathing is made, leaving a ventilation gap, on top of which a finished ceiling, for example, made of lining, is mounted.

Each of these insulation materials has one significant drawback: heavy weight.. A rough ceiling will only cope with it if the boards are thick and the span is small. An advantage can be considered the low cost of the material. If desired, the same floor ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool, expanded polystyrene in combination with expanded clay, and ecowool, but their cost is much higher.

You will need:

• tools: stapler, saw, hammer;
• materials: boards, foil, waxed paper, metal tape, galvanized nails, expanded clay.

For a bathhouse measuring 225 by 225 cm, with a layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick, the volume of required material is 1.5 m 3 .

Video: how to insulate a ceiling with expanded clay with your own hands

The sequence of arranging a false ceiling with a vapor barrier

This is a more complex design, suitable for those who want to build a second floor in the future. If you plan to walk around the attic and place furniture there, then you need to install floor beams. The false ceiling is made on them.

You will need:

• tools: construction stapler, hammer, saw, knife, tape measure, mallet;
• materials: beams, foil, metal tape, galvanized nails, sheathing slats, tongue and groove boards or lining, insulation, edged boards, membrane or film

To calculate the material, you need to know the area of ​​the ceiling, which is divided by the standard dimensions of the slab or roll of insulation. If it is bulk, then its volume is calculated: the height of the fill, which depends on the climatic zone, is multiplied by the area. For example:

• room length - 380 cm;
• width - 350 cm;
• The height of the bulk insulation layer is 20 cm.

The volume is 380x350x20 = 2.66 m3.

The ceiling diagram is as follows (from top to bottom):

However, the work is being carried out in a different order. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First of all, floor beams are placed on the wall frame.
2. Then they are hemmed with a layer of vapor barrier from below. Typically, foil, a staple gun and metal tape are used for sealing.
3. The vapor barrier is additionally nailed to the beams with slats to create a ventilation gap of 2–3 cm.
4. To finish the ceiling, use either a good quality tongue-and-groove board or lining.
5. After this, the work is moved to the attic, where insulation is laid between the beams on a vapor barrier. Most often, basalt wool is used for this.
6. Waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. For a bath, a membrane is preferable to polyethylene, because the previous layer must get rid of condensation.
7. Everything is covered with a deck of edged boards, which will become the base of the floor. It is better not to use cement.
8. Finishing the attic floor.

Video: hemming construction technology

How to insulate a panel ceiling

The most complex option for installing a ceiling, therefore it is rarely used in baths. For it you need to make pallets in which the insulation will be placed.

You will need:

• tools: saw, hammer, stapler, knife;
• materials: galvanized nails, foil, mineral wool, bars, boards (in pairs).

A standard mineral wool mat for baths and saunas has dimensions of 60x100 cm with a thickness of 5 or 10 cm. The material is easily cut with a knife, and when laying it can be compressed a little so that it lies more tightly in the spacer. The length of the “pallet” corresponds to the length of the room, the width of its inner part is 50 cm.

Knowing the length and width of the ceiling, for example, 360x360 cm, we can conclude that 6 pallets with a length of 360 cm will have to be made. Each of them will fit 3.6 standard mats (60x100 cm). If the density of the mineral wool is high, it will not be possible to compress it much, so the trimmings will go into “pockets”.

To insulate a panel ceiling measuring 360x360 cm, you will need 22 standard mineral wool mats.

Thermal insulation materials deserve special consideration. The fact is that not everyone is suitable for a bath. This is due to the increased temperature and humidity in its premises. The steam room is particularly demanding on the insulation material. It should be:

• non-flammable, does not emit a lot of smoke during a fire;
• withstands temperatures over 100 degrees;
• absorbs little water;
• does not release toxic substances into the air in any condition.

There is no ideal material; each has its advantages and disadvantages.

All work takes place in several stages:

1. First, on any flat surface (for example, on plywood), a structure is made from new bars and boards 60 cm long.
2. The bars are located at a distance of 50 cm from each other, the boards are nailed with 4 nails perpendicularly. In this case, you need to make an indent of 5 cm from the edge.
3. The result of the work is a shield into which the vapor barrier is laid. It, in turn, needs to be fixed with a stapler. All that remains is to strengthen the shield with temporary jibs, making it easier to carry, and lift it up.
4. At the top, the shields are placed end to end with protruding boards. Due to this, additional voids for insulation are formed.
5. The supports for the shields are the walls of the bathhouse, so they must be the same in length. Insulation (mineral wool or glass wool) is placed inside the panels with vapor barrier. The “pockets” are also insulated. After this, flooring boards are nailed across the boards, on top of which the finishing floor is made.

A panel ceiling is an alternative to a suspended ceiling, since both are used in two-story baths. The owner is free to choose between the labor intensity of the panel and the financial cost of the hemmed one.

To install a panel ceiling in a bathhouse, it is undesirable to use plastic lining, polystyrene foam and plastic film.

It is difficult to name the best insulation. Most often, basalt wool is used to arrange a bathhouse.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of various insulation materials

Name of insulation	Area of ​​application in the bath	Advantages	Flaws
Sawdust	Insulation of the floor ceiling.	Cheap.	Combustible and flammable.
Expanded clay	Insulation of horizontal surfaces - floors and ceilings.	Cheap, easy to install, durable.	Needs increased stability of the foundation and walls of the bathhouse. In some areas, expanded clay with increased radiation is produced. Needs protection from moisture.
Styrofoam	Nowhere.	Cheap, lightweight, easy to install.	Combustible, emitting a lot of smoke with harmful substances. Easily spoils.
Expanded polystyrene	One of the layers of thermal insulation of the floor or ceiling (can be laid on top of expanded clay).	There are varieties that can withstand high temperatures. Does not get wet, insulates well. It has a small thickness with low thermal conductivity.	Needs leveling of surfaces (this does not apply to polystyrene foam in granules).
Minvata	Everywhere.	Does not burn, withstands high temperatures, easy to install.	During installation and operation, it is partially destroyed and turns into dust, which is harmful to humans, so it can be used for insulation outside rooms. Needs hydro- and vapor barrier.
Ecowool	Everywhere, but with the condition of reliable hydro- and vapor barrier.	Does not burn and does not support combustion. Rodents do not like this material. Environmentally friendly.	Loses its heat insulating properties when moistened, and cakes during long-term use.
Clay	Ceiling insulation.	Cheap, accessible, reliable. Non-flammable and environmentally friendly material.	The same requirements for increased structural stability as expanded clay.
Growing aerated concrete	Uncharacteristic material for insulation.	It seals more than it insulates. 10–12 cm of aerated concrete corresponds to a 30 cm layer of expanded clay.	Reconstruction of the ceiling will cause difficulties. Requires formwork made of glass-magnesium sheets.

Insulation of the ceiling must be carried out during the construction of the bathhouse. Moreover, you can do this yourself if you carefully study the installation technology of various heat-insulating materials.

Every person, without exception, sometimes wants to take a steam bath or relax in a sauna. Lucky are those who have their own bathhouse on their property, especially if it is dry, there are no drafts, and it smells like wood. To make it comfortable to carry out all bath procedures in the steam room, you need insulated walls, floor and ceiling. This will help create a pleasant atmosphere and retain heat for a long time.

The need to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse

Everyone knows from their school desks that hot steam and warm air rise to the top. This leads to the fact that the bathhouse ceilings will periodically become wet from the effects of condensation, and subsequently they will rot and collapse. As for the dressing room, it is usually always cold and damp there, as a result of which mold and mildew appear in this place. Therefore, before insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the basic technologies for arrangement. It is advisable to think about which insulation is suitable for you specifically, because well-thought-out thermal insulation means the absence of dampness and cold now and other problems in the future.

When constructing a bathhouse, the ceiling must be insulated so that the heat in the steam room is maintained long enough and condensation does not accumulate and fall in large drops on people. Agree, this brings a lot of unpleasant sensations and does not add comfort.

It is not recommended to impregnate wood with chemicals that protect it from rotting and the spread of fungus, because then you will have to breathe in these fumes during bath procedures. It is necessary to protect the natural material from moisture using various insulating agents.

Ceiling insulation should be based on three basic principles:

Ensuring steam accumulation;

Protecting the attic from moisture (if there is one, of course);

Preventing the formation and accumulation of condensation.

The ideal option for insulating a bathhouse ceiling is the so-called “layer cake”, consisting of three parts: a waterproofing layer, mineral wool, aluminum foil.

Materials that are best not to use for ceiling insulation

A bath ceiling that meets all the requirements must be made of high-quality materials that meet its intended purpose, and not just any insulation will be suitable for a bathhouse.

The ceiling should not be made of plastic, fiberboard or plywood. The first material accumulates condensation. As for the plywood ceiling and fiberboard, under the influence of moisture these materials swell and, accordingly, deform. And if they are painted or dried, then under the influence of high temperatures toxic substances will be released, which is unsafe for humans.

Bath ceiling installation

To be able to spend time comfortably in the steam room, it is necessary to insulate all surfaces so that the heat does not escape anywhere. Before insulating the ceiling in the bathhouse, first let’s get acquainted with its design. It can be either separate or combined with the attic. The ceilings of log or panel baths have a similar design. Their structure includes: vapor barrier, lining ceiling material (for example, boards), beams, insulation and rolled sheathing.

The ceiling in a bathhouse without an attic is somewhat different and requires additional work. Typically, the top of the lining is coated with clay up to 2 cm thick. Then a backfill is made, for example, from wood chips and cement mortar about 15 cm thick. If the thermal insulation layer is sufficiently thick, condensation will not collect on the ceiling. When it appears, it is necessary to increase the layer of thermal insulation. The junctions with the chimney pipe are treated with fire-retardant mastics and non-flammable asbestos materials.

Materials for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse

Since ancient times, natural substances such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw, earth or slag have been used as insulation materials. To maintain room temperature, some try to insulate the bathhouse ceiling with clay. They coated all the cracks with it and covered it on top along with wood shavings or moss and soil. This natural protection from the cold was durable and effective, but it is quite heavy and therefore requires a durable ceiling. Clay insulation, in addition to its natural qualities, is also good because it does not allow rodents and other pests to breed.

Today, there are various materials that greatly simplify the process of insulating the ceiling. How else can you insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse, besides clay and straw? Stone or basalt wool, expanded clay, ecowool, penoizol, etc. are chosen as protective materials. Sometimes polystyrene foam is used. But it must be used with caution, since at high temperatures it releases toxic substances and, among other things, is a fire hazard. It is also not recommended to use glass wool as insulation. It requires special handling and serious protection of the skin and respiratory organs, which is almost impossible to organize at home.

Let's take a closer look at some types of insulation, because it is very difficult to answer the question of what is the best way to insulate a bathhouse ceiling.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fiber made from rocks - basalt, limestone and dolomite. This insulation ranks first in popularity due to its advantages. Here are some of them:

Durability;

Ease of moisture absorption - hygroscopicity;

Fire resistance, high fire resistance.

The thickness of the insulation can be 20-25 mm. By laying it on a vapor barrier, you will achieve the best result.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay, a material that has good thermal insulation properties, can be used as insulation for the bathhouse ceiling. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture very well, which is its main disadvantage. Now let's look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse using expanded clay. First of all, it is necessary to make a high-quality vapor barrier on the side of the room.

This will require two layers. The ideal option for the first layer would be a foil film (it should be directed inside the bathhouse). Expanded clay is poured on top of it, after which two layers of vapor barrier are laid. In this case, expanded clay is not afraid of moisture, and it will not lose its quality characteristics for preserving heat.

Penoizol

Penoizol is a liquid foam that perfectly fills all free, even hard-to-reach places. In addition, the material does not increase in volume and does not expand when dried.

If you are puzzled by the question of how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse, but do not have extra finances, then penoizol is suitable for this role like nothing else. It can be used as insulation, since it is very economical, its price is much lower than the cost of other materials.

Foil insulation

The optimal material for arranging the ceiling is considered to be insulation with foil for a bath, which, in addition to the base layer, also contains a thin coating of aluminum foil. The metal part reflects infrared radiation, preventing heat from leaving the room, that is, the room will not cool down immediately. In addition, the foil layer is a high-quality vapor barrier, which is simply necessary in rooms with high humidity, which is what a bathhouse is. Types of insulation include aluminum-coated mineral wool and polymer foil sheets. The first option is available in both rolls and slabs. This material is resistant to high temperatures, does not emit toxins and can be easily cut into various shapes. Polymer materials with foil differ from mineral insulation materials in their small thickness and are produced only in rolls.

The main advantage of the listed options is that the metallized surface reflects heat, due to which the walls in the steam room and dressing room quickly heat up. Therefore, to achieve a certain temperature in the bathhouse, you will need to spend less fuel, which is very beneficial for the owner of the steam room.

Vapor barrier

Before insulating the bathhouse ceiling from the outside, it is recommended to competently approach the issue of vapor barrier inside. This is to protect the insulation from getting wet by hot steam that rises from the steam room or washing room. The vapor barrier must be installed hermetically to be impermeable to moisture penetration. Due to this, high temperatures are not scary for her.

Foil is often used as a vapor barrier. The joints between the sheets are glued with special aluminized tape. This is the most effective way to insulate the bathhouse ceiling from the penetration of steam and moisture.

A good option for insulating steam is to use foil insulation. This is a modern material consisting of fiberglass.

You can also use glassine or plastic film as protection. Modern membrane insulation isospan and nanoisol also have all the necessary characteristics for arranging a steam room. The main rule: before insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, it is necessary to ensure high-quality vapor barrier.

Types of bath ceiling coverings

Bathhouse ceilings come in several types: suspended, floor or panel. Both the selection of insulation and the method of vapor barrier depend on the types of coatings. Since it is very important to properly insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse, the approach to this process should be appropriate. Let's look at the main types of floors.

Panel ceiling

It has a simple design of panels and boards laid on top beams. This type of ceiling is used very rarely in bathhouses, so there is no point in considering the method of insulating it.

Flat ceiling

The ceiling in the form of flooring is used in steam rooms, saunas and small baths. These are edged or tongue-and-groove boards that are attached directly to the walls without the use of beams. It is clear that this type of ceiling cannot experience a large load, and therefore bathhouses with flooring are used only in warm periods, for example, in summer at a summer cottage.

So how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse without the help of professionals? It is very easy to arrange this type of coverage yourself. Vapor barrier is rolled out onto firmly nailed ceiling boards. A heat-insulating layer of mineral wool is laid on top. Next, you need to re-lay the vapor barrier layer. The thickness of the materials directly depends on the climatic and weather conditions of your residence and on the type of roof of the bathhouse.

false ceiling

The most popular is a false ceiling, especially since it has a greater load-bearing capacity and is cheaper. The top boards are attached to the floor beams, which are durable wooden beams. According to the principle of installation work, the protection of a false ceiling is not much different from a floor covering.

We insulate the bathhouse ceiling with our own hands

It is quite possible to do without involving professionals and specialists in this process, because the installation technology is quite simple:

1. We attach a vapor barrier to the ceiling beams. You can use plastic film or foil as a protective layer. This must be done using a stapler.

2. Then we install a ceiling made of boards on the beams.

3. We apply an insulating layer of mineral wool or other material to the boards; the thickness of the insulation depends on the minimum outside temperatures.

4. Cover the top of the insulation with a vapor barrier and cover it with boards. This will be the floor in the attic of the bathhouse, on which you can walk, because such a floor can easily support the weight of a person.

Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is one of the most important measures. Many people are mistaken in believing that all options for protecting a steam room from the cold require significant financial investments. Some types of insulation can be absolutely free for their owner. What material to use for the ceiling in your own bathhouse, everyone decides for themselves, based on their capabilities and personal preferences. This article can only advise which insulation is better; in any case, the choice will be yours.

The warm air flow always tends upward, so if the ceiling in the bathhouse is not insulated enough, the steam room will suffer from constant loss of heat escaping to the street. Every self-respecting bathhouse owner faces insulation of the ceiling under a cold roof. At first glance, the work seems hard. But if there are step-by-step instructions on which insulation to choose and how to lay it yourself, everyone can handle surface insulation.

Why is the roof cold?

A cold roof is called when a roofing pie consisting of several layers of insulation was not provided for the bathhouse at the construction stage. Such a roof is considered to be as reliable as possible - the master builds a rafter system and lays the roofing material sequentially.

An insulated roof has the following quality characteristics:

• creates a special microclimate inside the building;
• serves as a protective barrier against damage;
• accumulates and retains 30% of heat.

According to the technology, do-it-yourself insulation is carried out in several ways:

• work is carried out from the attic;
• closer to the steam room.

Expanded clay is a natural material obtained from clayey shale by firing. In its finished form it is granules or grains of different sizes. Experts recommend using expanded clay to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof, citing its characteristics:

• ease;
• safety;
• unaffected by moisture and temperature changes;
• when heated, it does not release toxic components;
• odorless;
• retains heat well;
• does not collect dust;
• not subject to fire, which is very important for a steam room.

Step-by-step insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof with expanded clay consists of the following steps:

1. Clean the ceiling from dust and dirt.
2. Place a film with vapor barrier properties on the attic surface. For strong fixation, secure with a construction stapler or woodworking tape. To make the material fit more tightly, lay the film overlapping. A larger inlet must be provided for the chimney pipe and roof rafter system.
3. Pay attention to the granularity of the expanded clay fractions - for better insulation, use 4-10 mm; if you need to close the attic, a layer of such material 15-30 cm thick is enough. If the flooring of the attic is treated with wooden planks, expanded clay is poured between the joists.

Ecowool has not caught on for insulating ceilings in residential premises, but it is perfect for a bathhouse. Installation of ecowool involves several installation methods:

1. The dry method describes the laying out of ecowool between the joists of the attic room and its obligatory compaction; for this purpose, dense polyethylene is used.
2. The wet option is only possible if there is special equipment that distributes glue under pressure on cellulose fibers. As a result, a solid surface is formed, consisting of ecowool and air space. The layer thickness ideally reaches 15-30 cm, depending on climatic conditions.

Experts recommend laying a larger volume of ecowool, because it can become compacted over time. If you want to retain more heat, give preference to the wet method; just a few weeks and the material will be covered with a reliable crust.

The advantages of insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with ecowool have already been appreciated by the owners of steam rooms:

1. The low specific gravity allows for installation of any thickness. There is no additional load on the attic floor, because the loose structure alternates with air gaps.
2. Long period of operation.
3. Fights mold and harmful bacteria.
4. High-quality ecowool is treated at the factory with fire retardants that are not subject to combustion and provoke extinction if a fire already exists in the steam room.

Working with natural materials

Despite the wide selection of modern insulation materials, many still prefer safe natural substances. Of these, the top three in terms of thermal conductivity and efficiency are felt, dried leaves and tow. Then, in descending order, comes moss, pine needles and mats made from straw.

The ceiling of a bathhouse with a cold roof can be treated with sawdust, thin shavings, and reeds. Reeds are used to form floorings secured with strong ropes. Reed shows the following positive characteristics:

• insulates the bathhouse ceiling from moisture and heat escaping;
• is inexpensive;
• it does not harbor rodents.

When decorating the ceiling with sawdust, remember that despite the cheap cost of the material, it is necessary to provide for the option of treating the insulation with fire retardants - only then will it lose its high flammability.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sawdust on the ceiling of a bathhouse look like this:

1. Apply liquid clay to the attic surface.
2. To prevent dry clay from cracking later, sprinkle with sand.
3. The following layer of carbide and slaked lime will help protect the room from rodents.
4. Sawdust is sprinkled in a layer of 15 cm or more, up to 30 cm in regions with harsh winters.

In order to maintain optimal temperature conditions and steam generation in the bathhouse during health procedures, comprehensive insulation of the building should be ensured.

All this will lead to an increase in the load on the heating equipment to warm the room, which means:

• rapid wear or breakdown of equipment as a result of extreme loads;
• increasing the heating time of the steam room;
• an increase in fuel consumption, and therefore an increase in the cost of utilities.

To maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the steam room, it is necessary to take a comprehensive approach to the selection and installation of insulating material. After all, improper thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling can lead to an increase in heat loss and a decrease in the service life of the interior decorative finishing.

Materials

What is the best material to use for insulating the ceiling surface in a bathhouse? Experts recommend choosing insulation materials that can be used in extreme conditions. Below are the requirements for these materials:

• resistance to temperature changes, high humidity and vapor formation;
• resistance to damage by fungi, mold and pathogens;
• inertness to rotting and burning;
• safety and environmental friendliness;
• low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption;
• simple and affordable installation;
• long service life.

Thermal insulation materials for baths include:

Mineral wool

The most common mineral-based insulation, which is widely used for internal insulation of bath buildings. It is made from basalt fiber, therefore it has low thermal conductivity, good thermal insulation, and resistance to high temperatures and humidity.

Another indisputable advantage of the material is its high fire resistance. Mineral wool is used for internal and external insulation and can withstand heating temperatures of over 650 degrees. The service life of the insulation reaches 45 years, due to its resistance to the development of pathogenic microflora and rotting.

Among the disadvantages are the tendency to get wet and the fragility of basalt fiber. To eliminate them, it is enough to use a vapor barrier membrane with a special coating of aluminum chips.

Mineral wool is produced in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. One type of insulation is cotton wool with a foil-coated heat-reflecting layer.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

A budget and practical option for insulating a bath ceiling. Insulation materials are lightweight, low cost and easy to install. Other advantages of polystyrene foam include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• low moisture absorption;
• resistance to rotting and mold infection.

Polymer insulation also has some disadvantages:

• susceptibility to destruction at temperatures above 75 degrees;
• release of toxic substances;
• low vapor permeability, susceptibility to aggressive components and fire.

Taking into account all the negative characteristics, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam (foam) to insulate the bathhouse ceiling from the outside. It is not suitable for interior work.

Penoizol

A modern type of thermal insulation for the ceiling surface, which is urea-formaldehyde cellular foam. The advantages of the material include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• seamless application;
• high resistance to mechanical and chemical influences;
• inertness to rotting and fire;
• long service life - up to 75 years;
• affordable price.

The only drawback is increased moisture absorption. Penoizol is produced in the form of slabs and thermal wool.

Izover

The most popular thermal insulator for ceiling bases is mineral-based - slag, dolomite, basalt and diabasalt. It is practical, affordable and easy to install. Produced in roll and tile form. Has the following advantages:

• resistance to biological, mechanical and chemical influences;
• inertness to moisture absorption;
• light weight, which simplifies delivery and lifting to heights;
• environmental cleanliness and safety;
• long service life in high humidity conditions.

The material has some disadvantages - resistance to heating temperatures up to 300 degrees, the possibility of emitting a small amount of smoke upon fire.

Ecowool

An environmentally friendly and safe heat insulator, which contains cellulose, sodium tetraborate and boric acid. Thanks to its unique structure, ecowool is highly resistant to rotting, damage by fungi, mold and insects, and does not emit hazardous substances when heated.

The main advantages of the material include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness and safety;
• small mass;
• long service life - up to 50 years;
• high thermal insulation characteristics.

The negative aspects of insulation are its high moisture absorption rate and the need to use specialized equipment for installation.

Expanded clay

A natural porous thermal insulator made of clay, which is successfully used to insulate wooden bath ceilings. The main advantages of the material are:

• environmental friendliness and practicality;
• low thermal conductivity;
• durability and safety of use;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• resistance to burning and rotting;
• resistance to damage by fungi, mold and bacteria;
• inertness to high humidity;
• affordable price.

Sawdust with cement and clay

Environmentally friendly insulation for a bathhouse on the ceiling, characterized by accessibility, practicality and safety. It is made from natural ingredients - clay, cement and sawdust, and therefore has high thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity of the insulating layer is determined by its thickness and structure density.

The main advantages include:

• environmental friendliness and accessibility;
• resistance to combustion and high temperatures;
• high rate of heat and sound insulation.

Insulation technology

The choice of a suitable method of ceiling insulation is determined by the design features of the bathhouse building - the presence of an attic, attic, flat or pitched roof.

In practice, the following options for insulating a bath ceiling are used:

• Hemmed - for large baths.
• Flooring – for small-sized buildings.
• Panel - for various types of structures.

The main requirement for arranging ceiling bases is the presence of properly installed waterproofing and vapor barrier - reliable protection of the insulating material from high humidity.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling structure consists of 5 cm thick boards mounted on the bath walls. It is used for buildings with a cold roof up to 250 cm wide.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof, in which an attic is provided, is carried out using sawdust, clay or expanded clay.

All do-it-yourself ceiling insulation work is carried out step by step as follows:

1. Vapor barrier material (film or roofing felt) is laid overlapping on the ceiling flooring and secured with metal staples or nails.
2. Next, install thermal insulation protection - mineral or basalt wool.
3. If bulk insulation is used - expanded clay, sawdust with cement or clay, an additional edge should be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling surface. The thickness of the layer of loose insulation is 30 cm.
4. The multilayer structure is covered with waterproofing material - polyethylene film or membrane.
5. Finally, a wooden flooring made of boards or plywood sheets is installed.

false ceiling

The hemming type design ensures the creation of a practical bath ceiling. The boards are mounted to load-bearing floors from inside functional rooms and from the attic.

Multilayer thermal insulation is installed between the floorings. The installation process includes the following steps:

1. A vapor barrier film or membrane is laid on the ceilings with an overlap of 12 cm, overlapping the wall surfaces. The canvases are fixed with thin wooden slats, which are stuffed in compliance with minimal technological gaps. A double layer of vapor barrier and insulation material is laid over the steam room.
2. A wooden lining, pre-treated with antiseptic impregnation, is mounted on the ceiling structure to the slats.
3. The load-bearing beams in the attic are insulated with expanded clay, basalt or mineral wool. Thermal insulation is laid in a dense layer without gaps or cracks. The height of the insulating layer is 10 cm.
4. A waterproofing protection is mounted on the heat insulator with an overlap of 12 cm, with the joints tightly sealed.
5. Finally, the installation of wooden flooring from boards or plywood is carried out.

Panel ceiling

A panel ceiling pie is a panel structure made of identical bars interconnected. This is the most complex and labor-intensive type of ceiling base that can be installed in a private bathhouse.

How to insulate a ceiling with wooden panels step by step:

1. A board up to 65 cm long is nailed to parallel bars one at a time. The wood is carefully treated with an antiseptic compound. The protrusion of the wooden elements on all sides of the structure is 6 cm. During the joining process, an insulating layer is installed in the gaps formed.
2. A vapor barrier protection is fixed to the inside of the shield with an overlap of 10 cm.
3. The prepared structure is mounted on a lathing installed on the bottom of the ceiling beams.
4. Moisture-resistant thermal insulation is installed in the ceiling panels - mineral wool, basalt wool or expanded clay.
5. Finally, a vapor barrier layer of polyethylene film is installed, which provides reliable protection against steam and high humidity.
6. At the bottom of the ceiling, linden, cedar or aspen lining is mounted to the sheathing.

Insulating a bath ceiling is a responsible process. Using reliable and durable insulation, as well as following the technology of their installation, any bathhouse owner will be able to independently perform the entire range of insulation work, obtaining a practical structure for comfortable relaxation and strengthening the body.