Many who are interested in sewing very often have to work with natural and artificial leather. Handmade bags, leather jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish. But most often, working with leather involves repairing leather clothing, replacing zippers, restoring torn areas, etc.

There are many books on teaching the technique of sewing natural leather by hand or using a sewing machine, which tell in detail about the purpose of certain tools for working with leather.
I offer only a few basic recommendations that will be useful to anyone who decides to repair a bag, jacket, etc.

In this video you will see how easy it is to sew leather on an industrial sewing machine (or Podolsk type) by installing a Teflon foot on it.

Working with leather has many “secrets” and little details that you need to know and take into account. For example, when cutting out paired parts, you need to remember that leather stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, so paired parts need to be cut in any direction, but only in the same direction.

Do not chip the skin with pins. Punctures leave marks on the leather, and if you change the zipper on a leather jacket or bag or jacket, you can easily see this.

Soft leather can be sewn on a sewing machine using a regular #80 or #90 needle. But for sewing rough leather or thickened areas, a special needle for working with leather is required. Even for hand sewing leather, the leather needle looks special, instead of a point it has a triangular tip.
When sewing leather, the stitch length of a sewing machine should not be too small, since frequent punctures will cause the leather to tear at the joints.

You need to cut the leather with a special shoe knife on a plastic board or plexiglass. You can also use a wooden surface, but then the tip of the knife will cut into the wood.
A shoe knife, rubber glue, adhesive seam enhancers, a thimble, strong synthetic threads and a small hammer with an awl - this is a mandatory kit for any home “furrier” who decides to replace a zipper in a bag or repair a torn section of a leather jacket.

What kind of sewing machine can you use to sew leather?

Not every sewing machine can sew leather; treat your sewing machine with care and do not try to sew thick and rough fabrics, leather products, especially bags. As a last resort, you can use a Podolsk or Singer manual sewing machine, but not modern “seamstresses”, which cost 5 thousand rubles.
To work with leather, special industrial sewing machines are provided or, as a last resort, the instructions should indicate that this machine can be used to sew leather clothes.

If you sew leather on a household sewing machine, be sure to buy special needles and a foot, with a wheel (as in the photo) or a roller. Then the skin under the foot will not “slip” and the machine will easily advance the product without forming a seat on the top layer of leather.

If you don’t have a foot or it doesn’t fit (Podolsk sewing machine), then in order to make the leather move easier under the foot, you can sew it through thin paper, which can then be easily removed.

Sewing machine threads need to be strong and elastic. But only nylon threads (as in this photo) are not intended for machine sewing. They are only used for manual leather work or industrial sewing machines.

How to sew a women's bag from genuine leather. Bag with lining and zip fastening. You will learn many useful tips on how to work with natural leather.

Technology of sewing genuine leather and suede

When sewing suede products, you need to take into account the direction of the pile, otherwise the parts will have a different shade.
The leather is ironed from the wrong side with a low-heat iron without steam through a dry cloth.
To prevent the top part from stretching relative to the other, purchase a special foot with a Teflon-coated sole, as in this photo. Teflon feet cost much less than special leather feet.
The ends of the seam threads must be securely fixed with several knots, since machine stitches on leather products do not secure them and therefore they tend to unravel easily.

Working with leather is impossible without glue. The glue is applied with a brush onto a cleaned and degreased surface. Universal adhesives such as PVA and Moment, as well as rubber glue, are very effective.
Repeat the procedure of applying glue several times to thoroughly saturate the skin. At the same time, make sure in advance that the glue is not too liquid, otherwise the skin will get wet.
Set the parts treated with glue aside until the adhesive has dried “to the point of casting”.
After some time, connect the parts together. Place the glued parts under the press. You can even lightly tap these areas with a hammer.
Using a cotton swab or rag, immediately remove excess adhesive solution so that it does not damage the front surface of the leather.

In this video you will see the technology of sewing a zipper into leather clothing. If you are interested in sewing leather goods, subscribe to our channel and you will learn a lot of useful tips.

How to install fittings on leather products

Any handmade leather item must be decorated with fittings. Large metal rivets and buttons, buttons, blocks, locks greatly decorate leather goods.
Buttons are sewn to the skin only if there are buttons on the wrong side.
Before punching holes for the buttons, they are strengthened either with pieces of leather or with thick adhesive fabric.
Installing buttons requires a special tool. You can get by with homemade devices, but this installation method produces a lot of waste, then purchase more buttons than required.
Before installing a zipper into a leather product, you should secure it. Instead of basting with thread, adhesive tapes or glue are used. Sometimes even ordinary paper clips can “help”.
The edges of the cut skin areas are glued with special skin enhancers (tapes). On one side, a weak adhesive is applied to such a tape.
The puncture with a needle leaves holes, so the seam is done only once. As a last resort, a seam is laid along the old holes.

In this video you will see how to install a denim metal button on leather items.

After finishing working with leather, the appearance of the product can be refreshed.
You can remove marking lines with soap and water and ammonia, then wipe with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.
Heavily contaminated areas on the skin can be washed with warm, unboiled milk, rubbed with whipped egg white or half an onion.
White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and beaten egg white.
Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth soaked in glycerin or cleaned with a swab dipped in milk.
Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (the remaining sawdust is cleaned off with a brush), or an ink eraser, as well as fine-grained abrasive paper.
Stains from household grease are removed with gasoline or talc and a solution of oxalic acid. But be careful, you can remove the paint along with the stain.

Leather paint in aerosol packaging is very easy to use: it is sprayed by holding the can at a distance of about 20 cm from the skin and quickly moving it along the surface to be painted. After a ten-minute break, the next layer of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires an even and durable color.

Some tips on how to sew and cut clothing items made of leather or suede.
1. Select patterns that do not require planting. Complex shapes in this case are easier to create using construction seams than using darts. In the past, tailors tried to use as few stitch lines as possible on leather goods. Currently, leather production has become thinner and softer and leather products have more seams; often even leather clothing or accessories are sewn from small scraps of leather.

2. Kimono and raglan sleeves are easier to make when sewing leather clothes than set-in sleeves. If you are making a set-in sleeve, measure the increase in fit. It should be no more than 1.5 cm. It is better to make a shirt-cut sleeve, as it has a looser armhole.

3. You must be sure that your patterns are correct. Therefore, it is good to use the pattern that you have already worked with. Or the prepared pattern should be checked on a mock-up made of non-woven material (non-woven fabric without glue) or inexpensive fabric, and only after that it should be marked on the skin and cut.

4. Before cutting the leather, mark holes and thin places on the wrong side of the leather so that you can avoid them when cutting. Carefully lay out the patterns, make sure that the paired parts (right and left shelves, right and left sleeves, etc.) are cut out in a mirror image. Mark contours, lines and marks on the underside of the skin with a ballpoint pen or soft pencil, or a special marking pen. Mark seam and hem allowances. Some marks can be made using notches or adhesive tape. The seam allowances should be the same width, which makes it easier to sew together the cut pieces.

5. Leather stretches in different directions in different ways, so when cutting it is necessary to maintain the same direction of paired and mating parts. When cutting suede, you must follow the direction of the pile. The pile should be directed from top to bottom.

6. The needle leaves puncture marks on the leather, so leather parts are not swept away and stitching seams are not ripped out. To pre-connect the parts, use adhesive tape or paper clips. There is also a special pencil for fixing seams from Guetermann. The pencil does not leave a mark on the sewing machine needle. By the way, glue is a certain problem when sewing. It clogs the eye of the needle, causing gaps in stitches and even thread breaks.

7. Use overstitched, overstitched or covered stitches. You cannot press or press seam allowances like you would on fabric. Instead, they can be glued with rubber glue or another, which remains elastic even after polymerization (drying). There are special adhesives from Rudolfix, as well as NT 2 glue from Gütermann. If you don't have glue, machine stitch the seam allowances in position.

8. It is recommended to use a special interlining for leather LE 420 as a gasket, which is glued with an iron.

9. The fastener is made with a zipper, loops (stitched, overcast and hinged) and buttons. The buttons must be riveted. They are installed in hardware installation workshops.

10. If you do not have such a convenient tool as in this photo, then smooth the seams with the handles of scissors.
First, place the seam allowances from the inside out using short taps and smooth them out. Then do the same on the front side with the seam groove.

11. Working with leather involves ironing the leather with a non-hot iron without steam through a dry cloth from the inside of the product. Before ironing the item, try it on a small piece of leather.
Ironing leather is not recommended because the hot sole of the iron can cause the leather to change its properties, become stiff and shrink in size. But sometimes when working with leather it is necessary to put an adhesive pad. Then you need to iron very carefully and always only on the wrong side, placing an iron pad under the sole of the iron.

Sometimes genuine leather needs to be stitched using a furrier's machine. In this video you will see how the 10B furrier machine works.

Complex repairs of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part of the sewing machine breaks down and requires its replacement and subsequent adjustment.
Most often, a sewing machine begins to “act up” if the rules of its operation specified in the instructions are violated or simple settings and adjustments are not followed.

The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunctioning is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of sewing machine. Hemming a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper on a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, and needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs involving the replacement of parts.

The main part of a sewing machine is the needle.

Oddly enough, the needle is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in tissue and not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle tip becomes dull and the needle itself bends. And if the needle “hits” the metal part of the machine body at least once, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, which means everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its tip; its blade will be bent in one direction. How will such a point pierce fabric? There is only one way - to break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point and “slow down”, forming excess top thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason why loops appear in a line. Moreover, a curved point will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the top thread is stretched to the limit.

It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only of replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it does not outwardly have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often.
There is no need to throw away used needles, since there are situations when needles break one after another, for example when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.

Another reason for adjusting a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The needle blade (Figure B) should be located on the side of the shuttle nose. Remove the needle plate and see if this is true if the machine suddenly begins to loop and tear the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is industrial types of needles that are installed. This should absolutely not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the nose of the shuttle and the needle blade, hence the gaps in stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household ones and can touch the surface of the shuttle, scratch it and even damage the shuttle.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, it is impossible to determine whether the needle is crooked or not, but if you place it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, curved needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will sooner or later break.

In order for the sewing machine to work more confidently with difficult-to-sew fabrics, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, and denim, needles are produced that are designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special tip shape and facilitate the passage of thread through the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See needles for household sewing machines.

The looping of the thread in the line, as well as the characteristic knocking sound during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between all models of zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142. In short, looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, an incorrectly installed shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often children like to disassemble and reassemble it, and after such repairs, the machine stops working.

The Chaika sewing machine sometimes has to be repaired quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, its parts are very strong, but to misalignment of the interaction of some components of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle stroke.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the shuttle nose with a magnifying glass; it should not have nicks or rust spots. If there are nicks, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly be caught behind the file marks and loops will appear from below. You just need to do this carefully so as not to dull the tip of the shuttle nose.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound on it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, namely repair, since an inexperienced “master” often disassembles and reassembles all the components, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread frays, the lower thread will come out jerkily, and the upper thread in the stitch will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly adjusted. You tighten it almost all the way, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps thread frays have accumulated between the tensioner plates, which are preventing the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner (Chaika) may have become loose.

But still, most often, with sewing machines like Chaika, the operating parameters of the shuttle and needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather adjustments, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason why all the “troubles” of sewing machines occur.

Attaching the needle bar and tensioner

Most often, the cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in the stitch, uneven stitching, omissions, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Chaika) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to wobble, or even “falls out” of the case.

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1...2(3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine performs not only a straight stitch, but also on the left and right needle pricks (when performing a zigzag stitch).
The nose of the shuttle must simultaneously pass almost closely to the needle blade - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10mm socket wrench, and while holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (along with the shuttle stroke), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, these are not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle begins to rise up. The needle drops to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps it around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform zigzag stitches, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. When injecting the needle left and right, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should pass just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.

The above settings can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics, too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thicker fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only a master can set.

Sewing machine care and lubrication

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary if you keep the sewing machine clean and lubricate it periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, and will not let it fall into the “strange” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.

After prolonged work, you should clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, fringes, and oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it, run it “idle” for a while, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into friction units and areas.

It is better to take machine oil into a medical syringe and drop small drops into accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust; try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil will harden from the dust, and the machine will be difficult to turn, or even jam. This case is discussed in the article

When I was just starting to take my first steps in tailoring, my first sewing machine was my mother’s Soviet “Chaika”. If anyone was around this time, they probably remember these models. Their main difference from today's household sewing machines is that they operated using a foot pedal. It was at “Chaika” that I sewed my first dress, and from experience I can say that she sewed well, even now it is in working order.

Later I had to sew not only on household, but also on industrial equipment. I also sat down with various models of sewing machines from different manufacturers. And I have formed my own opinion on working with different equipment.

Unlike those times, today there is an abundance of choice of sewing equipment in stores for “dummies”. Today’s article will tell you how to choose a good sewing machine for beginners. In fact, this is the most popular question among my students, so get ready for the article to be very detailed)

Today's sewing assistants have long been electric. And they are divided into electromechanical and electronic (computer). Which sewing machine to buy depends on your financial capabilities. But both have similar signs that I first of all advise you to pay attention to:

The machine should not immediately jump out of place, but should do the stitching smoothly. The sewing machine pedal should be sensitive and respond to a light touch. Or there should be a speed controller.

The sewing machine should not make a stitch that would pull the fabric. This applies to delicate fabrics. When purchasing, be sure to make a few test stitches on pieces of fabric. Also see how the machine makes stitches on different fabrics:

• on the lungs - chiffon, silk, organza
• for medium and heavy - coat fabric, denim, linen, cotton, leather
• on elastic ones - knitwear, stretch.

If you have the opportunity to test it in action before purchasing a sewing machine, I advise you to conduct a small experiment. Give the machine the opportunity to sew on its own without your help or participation. Place a piece of fabric under the foot and watch it make a straight stitch at a distance of the width of the foot from the edge of the fabric. To see better, take threads that contrast rather than match the fabric.

Using this experiment as an example, you will immediately see what the line turned out to be. Namely, does it go to one side, does it go at the same distance from the edge of the flap. If the stitching “leads” a little, then there is a defect in the assembly of the sewing machine and when you continue to use it, you will have to contact a repairman to adjust the teeth on the needle plate. In some cases, this defect cannot be corrected and in the future, with such a sewing machine, you will have to make efforts to ensure that the stitching is even.

Look for a machine so that if it breaks down, you can repair it without problems. Spare parts and replacement parts should be sold in your city. Keep in mind that for expensive models all the components (foots, etc.) will also be expensive. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. If it is unusual, check in advance where you can buy accessories for such a model.

If the model is unpopular or exclusive, then it may be a problem for you to replace the broken part. Otherwise, it will be taken out of production altogether, and the issue of repairs will never be resolved for you. Or the cost of repairs will cost the purchase of a new sewing machine.

Consult with sewing machine repair specialists in your city which machine will be easiest for them to repair. What models of sewing machines do they have experience with? For example, Janome, New Home - it’s much easier to hire them for repairs.

All machines have stitch length settings. Choose a product with a stitch length adjuster up to 5 mm. It would be best if the assistant is equipped with a function for adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch.

In order to easily get to the most difficult places in clothes with a sewing machine, it must have a sleeve platform. How can I find out if it has such a device? To do this, you need to remove the compartment from the sewing machine, which is usually located under the needle plate. Now you can easily process the bottom of sleeves, trousers, as well as armholes and necklines.

When purchasing, make sure that there is a ruler on the needle plate of the sewing machine, which will allow you to sew exactly the amount of allowance that you set when cutting. Example in the photo - I sew a stitch 1 cm away from the edge. The edge of the fabric on the right is located at the 1.0 mark. This device greatly simplifies the sewing process and speeds it up significantly!

Tip 8. Which sewing operations are really needed for work?

You must decide for yourself what sewing functions your machine should have - which you cannot do without. If you plan to sew simple things at home and do minor clothing repairs, then a machine is quite suitable for you. with a basic set of functions:

• Straight stitch. You need to choose a sewing machine that makes a perfectly straight stitch.
• Zigzag stitch. It is needed for processing open sections of fabric to prevent it from fraying. Please note that the machine has the ability to adjust the width of the zigzag.

In addition to these two main stitches, you may also find useful sewing stitches such as:

Elastic zigzag for sewing elastic

Stretch stitch for knitwear

Reinforced straight stitch

Reinforced zigzag

Edge stitching, if you do not plan to pay for the machine - overlock

Invisible hem stitch

Stretch stitch for invisible hem

• Buttonhole processing function. With automatic mode, or semi-automatic - depends on your financial capabilities. You can make a quality loop in both modes.
• Reverse function (reverse). Necessary for making backtacks at the end of a stitch.

If you are not short of money, buy a sewing machine. This can be considered additional functions in the machine, which will also make your work easier:

• Regulator of presser foot pressure on fabric. It will come in handy when you sew fabrics of different thicknesses: chiffon or drape. There is a manual regulator - this is a disk or a screw, and an electronic one on computer machines.
• Spot tack. This will come in handy so you don't have to tie a knot every time you finish a stitch.
• Decorative stitches. Needed when placing various types of finishing stitches on clothes.

When purchasing, please note that the sewing machine includes the following parts:

• foot for sewing a regular zipper (single-arm)
• concealed zipper foot
• Teflon foot for working with leather
• roller hem foot
• assembly feet
• foot for sewing bias tape
• Lubricating oil

Don't be upset if some components are missing. You can always buy the missing paws and needles. In addition, you may not need some additional details in your work.

Tip 9. Which machine is better to choose: computer or electromechanical

If your sewing machine has a computer unit, but it makes ugly straight stitches, then of course this is a reason to think about it. In favor of electromechanical, but at the same time better quality in work. Therefore, before purchasing, be sure to check the product in operation: the stitching should not wobble, all stitches should be the same length and not pull the fabric when sewing.

If you choose a computer sewing machine, you will need to handle it very carefully. Do not use it continuously for a long time. For example, for industrial purposes, for an atelier. The computer unit has the unpleasant property of overheating and subsequently failing.

Tip 10. How to choose a sewing machine with an overlock function

The overlock function in sewing machines has appeared recently. This is a two-in-one model: a classic sewing machine and an overcasting machine. But don’t rush to rejoice if you decide to save money on buying an overlocker for your home. Because the “two-in-one” model only imitates an overlock stitch.

Externally, the stitch will look like an overlock stitch, but in terms of quality it clearly does not match the original. The strength is not the same. Essentially, a sewing machine with an overlock function is just a type of zigzag stitch.

Of course, two-in-one models will cost double the price. Is it worth paying extra for a separate stitch? If you sew for yourself and do not work for clients who care about the inside of their clothes, then a classic machine with a zigzag function will be enough for you.

Well, if you are a perfectionist and love a beautiful backside, it’s better to save up for a separate overlocker and don’t waste money on a sewing machine with an overlocker function.

Advice>>> How to save money on buying an overlocker? Buy an overcasting foot for a sewing machine. Or look at the tool compartment from your sewing machine; perhaps you already have one in your kit. It will create a zigzag seam more neatly than with a regular foot, especially when sewing delicate fabrics and knitwear. The edge will not curl or pinch as it usually does when overcasting. It also helps to produce high-quality finishing stitches, such as double parallel stitches on jeans. It is especially useful for beginners in sewing, when you are just learning how to make even stitches on fabric. Where can I buy a foot like this? I saw it on Aliexpress, and it is also available in sewing equipment stores.

Tip 11. What type of bobbin thread should you choose?

Which shuttle is preferable to choose, with horizontal or vertical filling? By making it possible to choose, sewing machine manufacturers have made the purchasing task more difficult for a beginner. The seller can tell you that you can take any, but there is still a difference, and now I will share with you exactly what it is. Machines with a horizontal shuttle are more functional, they have more lines used in work. And the vertical shuttle is more reliable, it breaks down and fails less often. In addition, you should proceed from your needs; if you plan to sew thick, heavy coat fabrics, then a vertical shuttle is best suited for these purposes.

Tip 12. What is the difference between a household sewing machine and an industrial one?

These are two large groups into which all sewing equipment can be divided. The answer to the main difference between a household machine and an industrial one lies in the name itself. A household machine will not handle the amount of work and complexity that an industrial model can handle.

But an industrial machine performs only one operation. While the household one combines many functions: straight stitch, zigzag, loop processing mode. But at the same time, an industrial one will make hundreds of thousands of stitches per day and will not overheat. The durability and reliability of industrial machine parts is designed for decades of use.

A sewing machine for beginners should be chosen from the group of household machines. The reason for this is the high speed of industrial equipment. If you are just learning to sew, you may not be able to cope with a sewing machine that makes 5 thousand stitches per minute. The main danger for beginners when working with an industrial machine is injury. You can easily stitch your fingers.

In addition, an industrial machine will be too noisy for a home. Based on prices, household sewing machines are more budget-friendly and for beginners it is better to start learning to sew with them.

Tip 13. Which brand of sewing machines to choose for beginners

Sometimes it happens that different manufacturers produce machines that are identical in quality and feature set. But these products can vary greatly in price. Therefore, in order not to overpay for the brand, choose sewing machines based on the price-quality ratio.

Pfaff,Husqvarna- quite expensive models. If the car is exclusive, repairs will cost you a pretty penny.

Brother— according to reviews, it has an uncontrollable pedal, makes poor-quality stitches

Janome- the most optimal balance of “price - quality”. According to reviews from customers and my students, it has the highest ratings.

Astralux— according to reviews, it is impossible to achieve high-quality stitching on thin fabrics with this machine. It also does not have a very high operating speed.

Nowadays it is not a problem to buy a sewing machine. Now it is possible to compare products at prices in different stores. There are several ways to get yourself a home assistant.

Method 1. Internet. Many large hardware stores have websites; you can go to the website of such a company and view the offers of online stores. Don't worry that you won't be able to test the machine in action. Such stores have a warranty period during which you can return the sewing machine.

Method 2. Through specialized stores. In any large city there are shops selling sewing equipment. You can find them through the Double GIS application. In the field of activity column, type “sewing equipment” and organizations engaged in the sale of household (industrial) sewing machines will appear.

These stores employ specialists and craftsmen who can help you make the right choice based on your experience. They also give advice on working and caring for the machine.

Method 3. If you have a limited budget, then you can buy an inexpensive sewing machine on Avito. There you can buy a used sewing machine for half the price than in stores. To reduce the risk of buying a pig in a poke, take a person with you to the transaction who has experience working with sewing equipment.

A very common question among those who choose sewing machines is: Why are some models expensive, although machines from another brand with the same characteristics are half the price? Would it be better to make stitches with a machine that is more expensive? Here, first of all, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• Internal contents. Different manufacturers have different requirements regarding the quality of parts. Cheap appliances may be equipped with plastic parts, while a more expensive brand may have special quality control at the factory.
• Even if at first glance you have machines in front of you that have the same functions, they can do it in completely different ways. One manufacturer can seriously invest in developing models, speeding up the process, and using the latest developments in technology. And the other is to do everything the old fashioned way, which of course will affect the low cost.
• Advertising. It is no secret that some manufacturers invest their advertising and product packaging costs into the price of sewing machines. After all, in order for people to talk about her, you need to talk about her, right)

And finally, I can say with the famous proverb that a miser pays twice. This also applies to sewing equipment. If you plan to use your assistant every day for a long time, then it is better to take a high-quality one with good filling. Otherwise, you risk spending twice as much on repairs and components. Also plan to purchase from an authorized dealer with support, this means that you will not be abandoned in the event of a breakdown or with spare parts.

What sewing machine do I use now?

I have a typewriter on my desktop Family. This is the most common inexpensive sewing machine with a minimal set of functions. From experience, I can say that I use only two lines on it - straight and buttonhole mode. No need for work anymore. Unless, of course, you make quilts or do patchwork. I have been sewing on it for ten years, and with proper care, such an assistant will last you just as long.

I also have another sewing machine - . I use it for overcasting the edges of clothes and when sewing knitwear.

General acquaintance with the Podolsk-2M sewing machine

The machine appeared in the USSR around the end of the 50s of the last century and was almost a complete analogue
American typewriter Singer 15th series. This was a common lock-stitch machine for that time, extremely simple in design and has unsurpassed reliability. The body is cast from cast iron, all parts are made of durable technical steel, of which an incredible amount remained in the USSR after the war and steel production increased. The machine has only one “critical” setting (the lower reach of the needle bar - a setting that affects the performance in principle), and two “non-critical” settings - the tension of the upper and lower threads - which only affect the quality of the stitch. It is enough to lubricate the machine only once or twice a year at control points and continue to operate without problems.

Machine drive

Initially, the machine came in two configurations - tabletop manual and bedside (foot) versions. Over time, small 100-Watt motors with very simple mounting and controlled by a pedal began to be produced in addition to the desktop version (and also the bedside table version). The pedal inside has 2 positions - at the initial moment of pressing, the power goes through a nichrome spiral (rheostat), which sharply lowers the speed, but reduces the engine torque, and when you press the pedal further, the power goes to the engine directly, bypassing the rheostat, which achieves maximum speed (6000 rpm) and maximum engine torque.

How to remake leather sewing?

In its basic configuration, the machine is designed for sewing with 60 threads and a needle No. 90, i.e. Designed to sew cotton fabrics, jeans and the like. And this despite the fact that the machine has a 100-fold safety margin. But this fact previously interested few people, because... leather was unavailable and no one really needed such alterations.

But today the situation has changed. There is a lot of leather, a lot of cheap, beautiful soles, i.e. The field for shoe creativity is limitless. The only limitation, oddly enough, was the lack of suitable compact sewing equipment. And although there was talk about the fact that Podolsk and Singer sew leather without difficulty, few people took this seriously. In the last year or two, videos about the leather superpowers of the machine began to appear on the Internet. Therefore, I decided to try this option too, because... I sold my industrial machine, which occupied half the room, and was on the verge of giving up this hobby. My expectations were met and now I have the opportunity to continue. But let's get down to business.

Attention! Read the photo captions carefully

If anything is not clear, ask in the comments to the video on YouTube. I didn’t put comments on the site to avoid spam.

I will accompany my story with photographs. (Click on photos to enlarge)

First change- if you have a machine not of the very first releases, which came with just such huge 9-spoke pulleys, then find such a pulley at a flea market in spare parts for seamstresses and replace it. In manual mode, in any case, you will have to help very often, but on a small pulley it is very dreary. At the same time, the diameter of the groove for the belt is 1mm larger - a trifle, of course, but the torque will be a drop greater.	Second change- the motor is not an ordinary motor for household sewing machines (90 W), but a motor for overlockers (250 W). It is sold there, in sewing supply stores and in the same place where sewing machines are sold. Chinese, but the masters praise it.	These are the characteristics of this engine on the plate above. Attention! If you come across a motor with reverse rotation, don’t be upset - open the motor, and you will see that a pair of small diodes are soldered to the brushes - pick up a soldering iron and turn each diode backwards - and that’s it.
General view of the roller foot, which will allow you to make such smooth and, most importantly, precise, even seams.	So, the 3rd change - we buy a video and install it. No modifications will be required. Just a little detail - you'll have to sand the seat on the roller a little with a file - it fit very tightly for me - it's not difficult, because... everything is made of aluminum, secondly, on the machine itself, the decorative chrome panel at the bottom had to be ground off by 1 - 1.5 cm, because the roller rested on it.	4th change - firstly, you need to replace the needle holder with this small one, which came on the Singer prototypes of Podolsk and on the first releases of Podolsk, later on Podolsk they began to install enlarged needle holders (see photo below), which prevent the roller from getting close to the needle. But at the end of this article it dawned on me how it was possible to sharpen my own one and not worry (read below, next to the last photos). Secondly, when installing a reduced needle holder, you will need to remove the needle bar (it can be easily removed with one screw) and grind its tip using sandpaper or a file so that the reduced needle holder fits onto it.
The roller turns upward to allow the needle to be replaced.	This is the screw that I now tighten with a screwdriver and the roller is screwed on.	The video was filmed - no problem.
5th change. We put a needle No. 130 for the skin. In addition to being generally thicker, it also has special grooves for thick thread.	This is what the original needle holder and standard foot look like.	In front of you are two needle holders - the Singer one on top (small), and the original one on the bottom (large). You need to find either a Singer one at a flea market (although sometimes they don’t want to sell it separately from the whole machine), or sharpen the original one a little (see below, next to the last photos)
Same thing in magnification	This is what is important - when you install a reduced needle holder, you will need to sharpen the tip of the needle bar exactly from the front side, where there is a groove for the needle. To allow the needle holder to move to the right and not interfere with the roller.	This is also a small thing that will need to be done - because... the roller is twice the size of the foot, then you will need to remove the front chrome cover (attached to the face with one screw), then loosen the screw that I point to with my finger and raise the entire rod up to the desired height (attach the roller and see for yourself), then tighten this screw again.
After lifting the rod for the foot, it will stick out from above by a couple of centimeters.	I already wrote about the needle - you need No. 130	After installing the roller, all that remains is to adjust the gap between the roller and the needle with this adjusting screw and nut. I believe that in the lowered position there should be about 1mm between the bottom edge of the roller and the needle. (But here I’m not sure that this is correct, I just found it cool and convenient to sew with just such a gap.)
Here's how you can do without buying a Singer needle holder. In the picture, I ground the lower original needle holder using sandpaper - I removed about 1mm from the front part (which is towards the roller), secondly, I shortened its “throat” by 2mm - where the needle shows, there used to be about 4mm, about 2 remain -X.	Top view of the machined original needle holder. Compare in the top photos how it looked before turning.	And finally, the last 6th change. Modification of the upper thread tensioner. When sewing leather, the standard tension, which is provided by this powerful spring, is not enough, so the master whom I called when setting up, first of all, threw away the small spring - we don’t need it at all now, and took the large spring in two hands and stretched it somewhere - then by 1 cm (clearly visible in the next photo). After this, the tension force almost doubled. It is precisely this strong tension that we will need.
This is the size the spring should be after stretching.

That's all that needs to be done to convert the machine to sew leather.

Rework result:

A total of 6 changes were required:

• 1. Install a large pulley
• 2. We install a powerful 250 W motor (overlock).
• 3. We install the roller (at the same time we grind down the front panel, raise the press rod and use a file to sharpen the seat on the roller itself.)
• 4. We buy a smaller one or grind off the original needle holder (in both cases, you need to remove the needle bar and grind its tip from the front part).
• 5. Place needle No. 130
• 6. We stretch the thick tensioner spring and completely throw out the small one.

I suggest you watch 2 video reviews of this particular sewing machine after the alteration. In the first one, I say that it is better to sew leather manually - after all, I was not completely confident in the capabilities of the engine - I thought I would burn the engine. But after watching a sufficient number of videos on YouTube of how Americans quickly sew leather on the same Singer-1591 engines, I took out my engine, installed it, tried it out, calmed down and took a second review. So:

Review of the Podolsk-2M sewing machine for sewing leather manually

And here is the second review, which I took after having already tested the machine with the engine. Let me remind you once again that this motor is not for a sewing machine, although it is the same in size, but for overlockers - 250 Watt, in which I had to turn the diodes over with a soldering iron so that it would spin in the right direction.

Review of the Podolsk-2M sewing machine for leather sewing using a 250 W motor.

With this, I conclude my story about a very successful, in my opinion, technique, which will allow us to realize any plans for sewing any shoes, even tarpaulin boots.

In the event of a serious breakdown of the sewing machine, only a competent specialist can help it. Although, in most cases, as practice shows, complex repairs are not required for a machine used at home, and in order for it to be used, it is only necessary to configure and adjust it. And this can be done on your own, the main thing is to find out and understand how to properly set up the sewing machine before work and which parts should be adjusted in it.

How to set up and adjust a sewing machine

Basic faults requiring setup and adjustment

The main operational problems that require timely adjustment and adjustment can be called:

• stitch instability, which consists in the formation of gaps in the line, different lengths of threads, breakage of one of them or both at once;
• manifestation of irregularities in the stitching, namely, tightening of the fabric in the form of an accordion, excessive tightening or loosening of the loop, as well as bevelling of the stitching;
• change in stroke, accompanied by noise, the appearance of “heaviness” or jamming.

Stitch instability

The occurrence of all these malfunctions indicates that you need to take a closer look at the operation of the sewing machine, determine the cause of their occurrence and try to eliminate them. If you do this at the very initial stage, it will not require much effort. Prolonged operation of the sewing machine in the wrong mode may require expensive repairs that can only be carried out by a professional.

Read also - how to fix the problem if the sewing machine starts to tear the upper thread.

Basic rules for setting up a sewing machine yourself

Setting up a sewing machine with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, you must adhere to a certain sequence of actions, the main stages of which are:

Among other things, before starting work, you need to set the stitch length. Usually their exact value for different types of fabric and a particular stitch is indicated in the operating instructions for the device. In this case, the average value of this value is from 1 to 2 mm when using thin fabric and at least 3 mm when using thick fabric. It is also worth checking the sharpness and fit of the sewing needle. If the needle is dull or chosen too thin for a particular type of fabric and thread, skipping stitches will occur.

Choosing a needle for a sewing machine

No matter how strange it may seem, the needle is one of the most important elements of a sewing machine, so before wondering how to properly set up a sewing machine, you need to check this element. During the stitching process, the needle makes several hundred punctures in the fabric, some of which are not thin and light. Over time, this leads to its dullness, and subsequently to the fact that it bends. And if, during its movement, the needle hits the metal of the device body at least once, the tip will certainly be crushed. At the same time, inexperienced craftsmen may not pay attention to such an incident and, during a visual inspection, will not notice the defect that has arisen. But in fact, it will exist, and when the tissue is punctured, relatively large tears will form in the latter. The thread, which passes through the eye of the needle, will cling to the deformed point, slowing down with the appearance of excess in the stitch. Loops will begin to form in the stitching. In addition, a bent, blunt needle can cause constant thread breaking, especially if the process of stitching a complex section of the product is being carried out, when the upper thread is stretched to its maximum.

In such situations, setting up a manual and electric sewing machine and adjusting it as such is not required. And to perform the job normally, you just need to replace the needle yourself. This element in the car must be changed as often as possible. This will not complicate the work in any way, but on the contrary will make the sewing truly high-quality and neat.

When replacing a sewing needle, you must select this element strictly corresponding to the type of machine. Under no circumstances should you install a needle intended for an industrial sewing machine into a household device. It is extremely difficult to confuse them, since needles for industrial devices do not have a cut on the bulb. Using such a needle in a household sewing machine, the gap between the needle blade and the nose of the shuttle is disrupted, which, at best, leads to skipped stitches. And in the worst case, it can damage the sewing machine hook. Also very important is the correct location of the element in the needle holder, which is to locate the blade on the side of the shuttle nose.

Needle selection and installation

Before inserting even a new needle corresponding to the type of sewing machine into the needle holder, you need to make sure that there is no curvature, which may not be noticed at first glance. In order to make sure that the needle is absolutely straight, you can place it on glass or a mirror. The gap will be immediately visible. In addition, you need to choose a needle according to the fabric you are using. So, for sewing “complex” fabrics such as stretch, denim or faux leather, there are special needles that have a special shape that facilitates better passage of the needle through the material, thereby eliminating skipped stitches and uneven loops created by the top thread.

You must select a needle according to the number of thread being used. In this case, it is worth taking into account a feature of new sewing machines, which is the presence of a guide stop under the surface of the table, which does not allow the needle point to go sideways. In this case, the distance from it increases with increasing tissue thickness.

Choosing a needle depending on the type of fabric

Setting the interaction between the needle and the sewing machine hook

The joint work of the shuttle and the needle

The quality of the result obtained during the sewing process depends on the adjustment of the shuttle and needle assembly of the sewing machine, or rather on the correspondence of the gaps between them to the correct values, in the absence of which gaps, looping and breaks of the lower and upper threads can also occur in the lines. In order to make this adjustment, you need to understand how the machine works when forming a loop.

So, when the needle is raised 1.5-2 mm from its original position, a loop is formed from the upper thread, located slightly above the eye. In this case, the nose of the shuttle should pass almost close to the hollow of the needle. This distance should not exceed 0.15 mm. The distance from the nose of the shuttle to the eye of the needle should be 0.5 mm. These values ​​are approximate and correspond to working with fabrics of medium thickness. Depending on the type of material used, they may vary somewhat. Their numerical value can only be understood experimentally in the process of performing work, and such skills in most cases come with experience.

It is also worth noting the importance of correctly installing the vertical position of the rack. They are responsible for moving the fabric relative to the needle and the body of the sewing machine during operation. At the moment when the needle pierces the material, the upper edges of the teeth of the rack should be at the level of the sewing machine work table.

Proper care of your sewing machine

In order to avoid the need to adjust the sewing machine each time before using it, it is enough to follow certain preventive measures, the main ones of which include:

• All main parts must be lubricated with special oil at least once every six months;
• after each use of the sewing machine, it is necessary to remove from its surface, as well as the hook cover and needle plate, all dust and dirt formed during operation;
• before hiding the machine in a case, you need to make sure that there are no torn threads or fabric in its structural elements, and also by placing thick paper or cardboard under the foot, lower it all the way;
• The sewing machine must be stored in a case;
• The pedal and drive cords should be coiled as carefully as possible to prevent kinks and breaks.

Proper storage of your sewing machine

Setting up the sewing machine after a long break in work

If the sewing machine has not been used for a long period of time, it must be checked and adjusted before use. This is necessary to make sure that during the long “standing”, all the main elements and mechanisms do not rust due to improper storage. To do this, you need to lubricate all metal parts of the device with the oil that comes with the sewing machine. If it is not there or it has run out, then you can use regular machine oil. Next, without lowering the foot, you need to run it at low speed in vain, so that all the elements that did not get oil are also treated with it.

After all these steps, you need to replace the sewing needle, and only after that proceed to threading and using the device. The first line is best done on a piece of waste fabric in order to avoid machine oil getting on the material of the product that will be made using a sewing machine. At the same time, it will become clear whether the line is correct. After this, you can safely start working with full confidence that this device is working properly and will not damage the main fabric.

Thus, it is quite possible to set up the sewing machine yourself. The main thing is to understand exactly what problem arises during the work process. All basic operations are standard and apply to both manual and electric sewing machines. If you check all the main parts and assemblies of the device every time before you start using it, as well as carry out preventive measures in a timely manner and use it correctly in accordance with all points of the operating instructions, then the question of how to set up and adjust the sewing machine will not arise.

Read also why the bottom thread in the line began to loop.

technosova.ru

How to set up a manual sewing machine?

Today, sewing machine manufacturing companies most often specialize in producing foot-operated models powered by electrical energy. Such devices are very ergonomic, both hands remain free, and the time required to perform individual operations is significantly reduced. Unfortunately, the manual mechanical machines that our grandmothers used often gather dust without use. Completely in vain! Let's look at the question of how to set up a manual sewing machine, and over time you will be able to avoid the services of a sewing workshop, creating real sewing masterpieces.

The first sewing device made of wood was created by the French tailor Thimonnier. Despite all its primitiveness, the productivity of this mechanism was several times higher than that of a person sewing by hand. The first sewing machine was greeted quite aggressively by workers, since mass production of such mechanisms threatened mass layoffs.

Subsequently, Thimonnier improved his invention. Some of his ideas are still used in today's models. Its peculiarity is that it can work even with the thinnest and most delicate fabrics, for example, silk.

A machine with a shuttle, vaguely reminiscent of the modern one, was invented by W. Hunt in 1834. This device was also equipped with a fabric advancement mechanism. The machine was equipped with a horizontal needle. For the first time, vertical movement of the needle was introduced into practice in the famous Singer machines.

• On the right side there is a wheel called a winder. It is driven by hand.
• Next to the wheel there is a lever through which the stitch length is adjusted.
• On the left side of the machine there is a shuttle device and a needle with a presser foot. There is also a regulator for the tension of the upper thread and a lever for lifting the presser foot.
• The working surface of the device is equipped with slats that advance the fabric during the sewing process.

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How to set up an old sewing machine: general principles

The essence of the setting is to select the correct thread number and needle to work with a particular fabric. The quality of the stitch largely depends on how well the thread tension is adjusted. If the tension is incorrect, the seam “loops” from the bottom or top.

How to set up a manual sewing machine:

1. You can adjust the bobbin thread tension using the screw located on the bobbin case. The more the screw is tightened, the stronger the thread tension.
2. The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using a special regulator, which is located near the lever that raises the presser foot.

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Rules for using the “Chaika” machine

Here are some of the most important rules for using a sewing unit of this brand:

• You cannot start stitching without first lowering the needle and presser foot.
• The handle should only be turned towards you.
• To lubricate the machine, you must use only special oil.

Important! The machine should only be used on fabrics that are suitable for all types of stitches. Otherwise, the machine may become unusable.

How to set up a manual sewing machine “Chaika”? The most important point when setting up the “Seagull” is the correct installation of the thread and needle:

1. By turning the handle, set the mechanism for pulling the thread to its highest position.
2. Insert the needle into the holder as far as it will go, with the flat side facing the rod on which the foot is located.
3. Secure the needle with a screw.
4. Place the spool of thread on the special rod.
5. Pass the thread through the thread guide and friction washers.
6. Insert the thread into the thread tensioner, and then fix it into the thread guide and needle holder.
7. Finally, the thread must be threaded through the eye of the needle.

All this concerns the top thread.

Let's figure out how to set up the lower thread:

1. Wind the thread onto the bobbin.
2. Insert the bobbin into the cap and bring the thread out.
3. Insert the cap back until it clicks.
4. Turn the handle of the machine to tension the threads.
5. Thread both threads under the foot.

All! Now you can sew.

• According to the instructions, the machine’s flywheel should rotate only in the “toward” direction (the direction of movement of the handle is away from the person working). Rotating the flywheel “pull forward” is unacceptable, as the thread in the shuttle may become tangled.
• If the machine is not working, the presser foot must be raised.
• Do not start the device without placing fabric under the presser foot, since the teeth of the device that advances the fabric may become dull.
• Do not pull or push the fabric while working. The needle may break or bend. The machine itself carries out the advancement of the fabric.
• When working, be sure to close the front plate tightly over the hook.

How to wind thread on a bobbin?

The Podolsk machine is equipped with a special winding device located at the rear of the machine, near the flywheel.

Important! The winder operates together with the lower thread tension device, which is located in the right corner of the platform. The sewing device mechanism should not operate while winding the thread.

How to set up an old manual sewing machine of this model:

1. The first thing to do is to disable the flywheel so that it cannot start the machine moving. To do this, turn the friction screw located in the central part of the flywheel toward you.
2. Place the bobbin on the winder.
3. Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
4. Pass the thread from the spool under the tensioner washer, and then up to the bobbin.
5. Push the winder frame down until the pulley rim contacts the flywheel.
6. Hold the loose end of the thread until you have wound enough threads to secure the thread. Then tear off the protruding end of the thread.

Important! When wound correctly, the turns lie tightly and evenly.

Threading the bobbin into the cap:

1. Hold the bobbin with your right hand and insert it into the cap. In this case, the oblique slot of the cap should be on top.
2. Then pull the thread through the slot to the tension spring, and then into the slot at the very end of the spring.
3. Place the cap in the machine, remove the free end of the thread and close the shuttle.

How to install the needle correctly?

The needle is installed when the needle bar is in its highest position.

Important! The needle must be installed correctly. Otherwise, the line will end up with gaps. The flat part of the needle flask is directed to the left, and the long groove on the blade is directed to the right.

Upper threading:

1. Turning the handwheel towards you, set the thread take-up lever with the hole to its highest position.
2. Place the spool on the pin and draw the thread to the eye of the needle.

Important! Thread the thread into the eye of the needle outward - from right to left.

Preparing the machine for sewing

We figured out how to set up a manual sewing machine. Now let's get ready for sewing:

1. First of all, pull the bobbin thread out. To do this, turn the machine's flywheel so that the needle first drops, catching the bobbin thread, and then rises again to the top position.
2. After this, pull both threads back and place them under the foot.
3. Place the presser foot on the fabric underneath.
4. The machine is ready for use.

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Features of setting up mini-cars

This is the best option for occasional use. Externally, this machine is similar to a stapler for fastening papers.

Important! The device can be easily placed in a handbag. The machine takes up very little space and can be held with one hand.

The resemblance to a stapler is not accidental. The principle of use is approximately the same, only instead of staples, a spool of thread is inserted on the side. Before threading, you need to wind the thread on a regular standard spool, which is supplied with the device.

Important! You can purchase several of these spools at the store and wind threads of different colors on them.

The compact, self-contained machine sews both thin and heavy dense fabrics well. You can use it both at home and while traveling. The design is extremely simple: press a button and sew the fabric.

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Service Issues

It is best to entrust repairs to a sewing machine to a professional technician. However, there are settings that a seamstress can easily handle on her own. Moreover, in the process of work you have to deal with different types of fabrics. Knowing how to set up an old sewing machine when minor problems occur is essential.

Presser foot pressure

It can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the bolt that presses the foot spring. It is located directly above the foot and is made so that it is convenient to tighten it by hand.

Important! If you are going to work with thin fabric, you need to loosen the presser foot.

Height of teeth for tissue advancement

In the “Chaika” machine, regulation is carried out using a disk in 4 positions. The thicker the fabric, the more the teeth should protrude. When embroidering, the teeth are completely hidden.

Important! “Podolsk” has 3 positions for adjusting the teeth.

Adjusting the bobbin thread tension

This is done using a special adjusting nut. Adjustment is made, for example, if loops form at the bottom.

Adjusting the upper thread tension

To do this, there is a small screw located on the bobbin case spring. The adjustment is made if loops appear on top during the sewing process.

Important! Sometimes, when the bobbin rotates too freely inside the cap, the thread often breaks.

New models of sewing machines are equipped with special spring devices that press the bobbin. Old cars don't have this. You can simply solve the problem of how to set up an old sewing machine:

• cut a circle from fabric or thin paper with a diameter slightly smaller than a hairpin;
• cut a hole in the center for the axle.

All that remains is to put a homemade washer in the bobbin cap, drop special oil for sewing machines on it, and then insert the bobbin.

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Care issues

1. If you work on a sewing machine without lubricating it for years, it will, of course, work, but over time various problems will arise and the quality of sewing will deteriorate. But if you lubricate it regularly, it will last much longer. Lubricate the car once every six months to a year.

Important! When lubricating, you must use special sewing machine oil. Otherwise, a “drying oil effect” may occur, and the running of the machine becomes more difficult.

1. Equipment is cleaned of dust much more often. It all depends on what fabrics you use when sewing. There is especially a lot of dust from fur, wool and knitwear. After work, it is necessary to sweep away the dust under the covers, from the surface of the machine, under the shuttle and the needle plate. You can use a regular cosmetic brush for this.
2. At the end of the work, you need to place a small piece of dense fabric (for example, denim) under the foot.
3. The machine must be kept in a non-working state under a cover.

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Video material

With proper care, the device will work flawlessly, and you will rarely have questions about how to set up or repair a manual sewing machine. This means you can easily create original clothes for yourself and look irresistible in them.

serviceyard.net

Design and principle of operation of a sewing machine

Initially, the sewing machine was designed in such a way that it could do work independently, thereby replacing a person. This invention made it possible to significantly facilitate the work of a seamstress and increase his productivity. The operating pattern allows even an absolute beginner, who has never held a needle in his hands, to sew straight and high-quality stitches. The newest generation of devices not only sews in a simple way, they are also capable of creating patterns and embroidery. The achievements of modern technology are amazing, but the operating principle of every sewing machine is still based on the very first algorithm developed many years ago.

Sewing machine diagram

There are basic parts of a sewing machine, without which no unit can do:

• flywheel;
• winder;
• sleeve;
• sewing platform;
• stitch selection wheel;
• sleeve stand
• receiver (reverse)
• needle holder;
• needle plate;
• paw;
• lever for raising and lowering the presser foot.

But these are the details that are visible upon superficial inspection - they are a small part of the mechanism hidden under the body. There's a complex system inside to power the shuttle. We can say that the operation of a sewing machine is entirely based on the shuttle device. For an untrained person, the parts diagram of a regular sewing machine may seem complex and confusing, but everything becomes clear if you understand a little.

The bobbin is the most visible part with which the tailor constantly interacts. It is located behind a retractable panel under the needle. To remove the bobbin from the slot, pull it towards you and slightly up. This way you will bend the small grip and release the element.

The bobbin is necessary to supply threads that are wound onto it from the main spool before work. This happens automatically - the thread from the spool is threaded into a special hole in the bobbin. After this, the part is placed in the socket, and the spool of thread is secured to the body of the machine. When the flywheel is activated, the bobbin rotates, which winds the thread on its axis, and the spool of thread also rotates.

To tension the thread during operation, the bobbin structure includes a small screw. Correctly set settings eliminate the possibility of skipping top and bottom stitches. A tailor can sew without being distracted by constant quality checks. Carefully check the thread before starting work; excessive tension causes constant breaks. Watch a video about ideal thread tension.

A small part, the so-called spout, is designed to insure the reel against accidental bobbin drops. It is mounted on a moving panel, which is pressed away from the bushing body by a spring mechanism. If everything works as intended, then there are no failures in the system. As long as this part is in the correct position, the bobbin is securely fastened in the sewing machine and cannot be pulled out. To reassemble, bend the spout and, holding it in this position, insert the bobbin into place.

When examining the body of a sewing machine, you can find an oblong protrusion. Its task is to prevent the rotation of the bobbin spool or shuttle drive.

The bobbin inserted into place interacts with one of the main parts of the device, namely the shuttle. It is presented in the form of a part that goes back and forth, cut into a special profile.

A working sewing machine sets it in motion through a connecting rod connection, which sets the correct trajectory.

The operation of the connecting rod connection can be controlled by the operator. For this purpose, a retractable metal panel is specially provided on the case. Having unscrewed it, you can see how the flywheel rotates, setting the needle in motion, going down and up. At the lifting point, not reaching the table surface of five millimeters, a sharp grip passes past it.

This grip represents the bow of the shuttle. The design of the sewing machine provides a gap between this nose and the needle, not too large, but not small enough to allow their accidental contact.

Sometimes the distance begins to increase, and if its value changes by even half a millimeter, the machine will begin to skip stitches in the line. With such a malfunction, the needle continues its work, the fabric advances properly, but the thread does not stitch it at all. The perforated matter is practically not held together and continues to move. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to adjust the position of the needle to the shuttle.

Video on how to adjust the hook of a sewing machine from the Podolsk company.

Operation of the sewing machine

How does a sewing machine work, and what forces drive its internal processes? The entire system is based on a simple principle based on a given needle movement. Taking the top thread with her, she threads it down. Next, it is picked up by a shuttle that is ready for this, and intertwines the lower thread with the upper thread.

The simplest movement provides the basis for such complex manipulations as zigzag seams and even patterned embroidery. Video on how to do embroidery on a home sewing machine.

Manufacturing companies are improving their models. Today there are already units with a special addition in the form of a side needle for processing the edges of the material, but it is not easy to find them in ordinary stores.

The inner part of the housing hides a drive, which is activated manually (in mechanical machines) or using an electric motor (in electromechanical devices). The engine, through a connecting rod, starts the rotation of three other shafts. If we go into detail, we can say that the system includes one intermediate axis, which transmits a rotational impulse to the three described shafts.

This system is designed for a long period of use and is considered quite durable. To apply lubricants to the moving parts, there are holes in the housing into which the nozzle of the oil can easily fit.

The mechanisms of mechanical sewing machines do not wear out quickly, and their characteristics are considered one of the best. With proper care, the device can serve a tailor for up to fifty years without any problems. However, to do this, you need to follow all the preparations prescribed in the instructions before work, and also regularly lubricate and clean moving parts

In more advanced models, a pedal is provided, when pressed with your foot, all mechanisms are set in motion. It is much more convenient to use, as it gives freedom to your hands. Of course, modern designers have improved this system, turning the pedal from mechanical to electric.

Moving fabric

When talking about how a home sewing machine works, we cannot omit the description of the device designed for drawing fabric. This invention, revolutionary for its time, made it possible to set the desired length of stitches, and also relieved tailors of the obligation to monitor the progress of the flap.

It all happens as follows:

• at the first stage, the main shaft passes through the central part, which is connected to the flywheel axis through a connecting rod;
• two rods pass through the side parts, the synchronous rotation of which sets the broaching mechanism in motion.

The first is equipped with a part that experts call among themselves “Dovetail”. To the common man, it looks more like a key. This element moves back and forth in the direction of the fabric.

The second axis has a cam that is located in the dovetail space. Its main function is to lift and lower this part.

The final result of all the movements of the listed mechanisms is the operation of the sewing machine; the dovetail-shaped part sets the lingering teeth in motion. Having received an impulse, the teeth carry out their steps, spinning in place.

All manipulations to adjust the stitch length are carried out using a rotary lever. A very small part is attached to the axis of the tailed key. When the lever is turned, the tails change their configuration from the initial position, which leads to a change in the length of the stitch in the line. The video shows how to properly adjust your stride length.

Thread tension

This manipulation is carried out using a special screw located above the needle holder. The tension of the upper thread is an important indicator that controls the quality of the seam. Not far from the needle holder there is a special eye that moves during operation and does not allow the tensioned thread to weaken or sag when the needle goes up. Without this small detail, the entire work of the sewing machine would be nullified.

Video on how to assemble and install the thread tension regulator.

Winding device

At the end of the description, you need to say a few words about the winding device. As a rule, not far from the winding flywheel there is a small pressure wheel with a shaft equipped with a mark.

On the panel located underneath there is an eyelet with another small wheel. The spool is placed on a vertical stand, and from it the thread is passed over the table to be wound onto a bobbin. To ensure proper operation, the pinch wheel is gently pressed in with your finger, after which rotation begins, transmitted by the sewing machine drive.

The design provides another option. If the bottom thread suddenly runs out, you can use the end taken straight from the needle. The main thing is to remember to remove it from your ear first. After this, repeat the algorithm described above.

tehnika.expert

DIY sewing machine repair: detailed instructions with photos

Sewing machines do not lose their popularity even in the twenty-first century. Those who were born during Soviet times remember that girls from childhood were taught to sew various things, from gloves to jackets and coats.

During the Soviet era, most people repaired sewing machines themselves. Even today, those who attend cutting and sewing courses understand that it is better to repair a sewing machine yourself than to take it to a service center:

• Firstly, companies that repair sewing machines require quite a lot of money from their clients for the services they provide.
• Secondly, the structure of even modern machines can be understood in a matter of hours; you just need to approach this issue carefully, and in the future this will make it possible to repair sewing machines without involving third parties.

Basic rules for operating a sewing machine

Let's look at the basic rules for operating sewing machines:

• Sewing equipment should not be located near radiators or heaters. But at the same time, it must be in a dry room, in which there are no signs of dampness;
• Before starting work, it is necessary to select the necessary materials and tools, needles and threads that will be needed during the work process;
• Before you start sewing, you need to make sure that the needle and thread guide are in the up position;
• Remember that the sewing machine needs to be assisted while sewing, pulling the fabric towards itself;
• After the sewing work is completed, you need to raise the presser foot and stretch the fabric. Next, cut the thread, having previously found a free end, the length of which will be a maximum of seven, but a minimum of five centimeters.

Problems with sewing machines

There are rules and they must be followed. The use of high-quality materials and additional tools minimizes the occurrence of problems and malfunctions when working with sewing machines. Therefore, the following reasons that lead to malfunctions are the most common:

1. Thread break. Breakage can occur in both the upper and lower threads. In the first case, the problem is related to the selection of low-quality threads or the wrong needle size. In the second case, the problem of a sewing machine malfunction may be associated with unevenness, the presence of burrs in the bobbins, and incorrect winding of the thread.
2. Problems with fabric advancement. If such a problem occurs, you need to carefully look at the position of the teeth. If they are raised or lowered, then it is necessary to bring them to normal condition;
3. Cutting fabric. If such a problem occurs, in order to fix the machine we need to reduce the pressure of the presser foot and check the condition of the needle, perhaps it is too dull.

Read also: Blender repair: disassemble and repair it yourself

Serious problem - sewing machine knocking

The above problems are not serious and can be resolved in a matter of minutes. But there are types of problems that occur infrequently. Therefore, repairing sewing machines with your own hands in case of problems will take quite a lot of time.

The most difficult, most serious breakdown should be considered the appearance of a knocking sound when the sewing machine is operating. To solve this problem, you need to pull the flywheel several times, and do this in accordance with the axial direction of the machine.

In order to repair a sewing machine, it must be disassembled. We disassemble the sewing machine in the following sequence:

1. Remove RP (manual drive). It is necessary to remember its location, this will allow you to subsequently assemble the sewing machine in a short period of time;
2. Unscrew the stopper, which is a classic screw, from the nut. It is under manual drive; at the time of assembly it must be screwed back to its original location;
3. Remove the flywheel. This must be done carefully, avoiding damage to it; if the flywheel malfunctions after assembling the machine, you need to see if everything is in order with it;
4. Remove the bobbin that looks like a cone. It is located below, after the flywheel. Finding her will not be difficult;
5. Remove the bushing from the shaft base;
6. Place a tin washer on the shaft. You can make such a washer very simply, just cut out the bottom of a tin jar.

In 40% of cases, a washer is the key to high-quality work done using a sewing machine. Sometimes adding it to the machine is enough to solve the problem, but this does not always happen. When setting up sewing machines, in 60-70% of cases you have to turn the staff 180 degrees.

Read also: Microwave oven works but does not heat food: what to do?

The needle is a key part of a sewing machine.

Needles are the main elements that make a sewing machine work. Its further work depends on which needle is chosen. If a defective needle is selected, then the occurrence of the above problems is not a rare case, because the needle is the basis, and without it it is impossible to sew a single thing.

Therefore, when choosing a needle, you need to carefully consider its size and thickness. You also need to check the needle numbering if you are doing any complex sewing work, otherwise it may happen that the item will not turn out the way you imagined it before.

There is another problem in which the wrong choice of needle can lead to stretching and damage to the fabric. If the needle is too thick and the fabric is thin, then you cannot use the needle with such fabric, otherwise it will tear.

Read also: How to repair a thermopot yourself

Using too thick a fabric with a small needle may cause the needle to break. In order to sew something from thickened fabric, you need to choose a thicker needle; if you don’t have it at home, then go to the store and buy it. Before doing this, measure the thickness of the fabric in advance - this will allow you to select a needle in the store in a shorter time. You will need to tell the seller the thickness of the fabric, and he will independently select a needle of the size you need.

tehrevizor.ru

How to repair a sewing machine yourself?

Sewing original and much-needed items yourself is great, especially if you know how to use a sewing machine. Everyone who had the good old “Chaika” at home was wondering how to repair a sewing machine on their own? Oddly enough, this is quite simple to do, especially if you know the cause of the problem. And in order to find out the reason for their appearance, read this article, which contains all the material regarding this topic.

Natural wear and tear

During its life, it makes hundreds of thousands of punctures of tissue, and no one says that it is always light and thin tissue. Therefore, it is logical that the needle point becomes dull, and the needle itself may bend.

Important! Are you paying attention to this? At first glance, the needle is intact, which means everything is fine with it. But use a magnifying glass and examine its tip - the blade will be bent in any direction, and how will such a tip accurately pierce the fabric? No way, just break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle forms a stitch. The thread, which is located in the eye of the needle, clings to the curved point, slows down, thereby forming excess upper thread inside the stitch. This is one of the reasons why loops appear in a line.

Important! In addition, a curved point will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the upper thread is extremely stretched.

Based on this, we understand that sometimes the entire process of repairing a sewing machine consists of simply replacing the needle.

Incorrect installation and use

Another reason for problems with a sewing machine is incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar, this problem is especially typical for older machines:

• The needle blade must be on the side of the shuttle nose. Remove the needle plate and see if this is actually the case, if for no apparent reason the machine begins to loop and tear the thread.
• It often happens that seamstresses install a needle in their home sewing machine that is intended for industrial sewing machines. It is impossible to confuse an industrial needle with a home needle. Household needles have special cuts on the flask. But despite this, it is industrial needles that are installed.

Important! Under no circumstances should you make this mistake:

• Firstly, you will damage the gap between the head of the needle and the nose of the shuttle, which is where the gaps in stitches begin.
• Secondly, you run a very high risk of damaging the hook of your sewing machine.

Some of the industrial needles are noticeably longer than home ones, and can touch the surface of the shuttle, scratch it, and even damage the shuttle itself.

• All sewing equipment should not be located near batteries or heaters. But at the same time, it must be located inside a dry room, in which there are completely no signs of dampness.
• Before you begin the work itself, you must select the materials and tools, threads, and needles necessary for the work. By clicking on the link, you will learn how to thread a sewing machine.
• Before you start sewing, make sure that the thread guide and the needle itself are in the up position.
• Always remember that the sewing machine needs to be assisted while sewing by pulling the material towards itself.
• When finished, raise the presser foot and then pull out the fabric. After this, cut the thread. Find a free end in advance, a maximum length of 7, but a minimum of 5 cm.

Important! For those who love to sew, sooner or later there is a need to buy an overlocker. Our separate review “How to choose an overlocker?” will help you.

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What problems exist with sewing machines?

There are rules and they must be followed. The use of additional tools and high-quality materials reduces the chance of problems and malfunctions while working with sewing machines to a minimum. That is why the following reasons, which lead to malfunctions and the need to repair the sewing machine yourself, are the most common.

Broken thread

This problem occurs with both the top and bottom threads:

• In the first case, the malfunction is associated with the selection of a low-quality thread or the wrong needle size.
• In the second case, the malfunction is associated with unevenness, the presence of burrs in the bobbins, and also with incorrect winding of the thread.

Important! Do you want to sew a new beautiful knit skirt? You will find about the features of this type of fabric, the rules for working with it and much other useful information with sewing instructions in our article “How to sew a skirt from knitwear?”

Problem with fabric advancement

If you have a similar problem, you should carefully examine the position of the teeth. If they are down or retracted, return them to their normal position. As you can see, often when problems occur, no complex repairs to the sewing machine are required.

Cutting fabric

If you have such a problem, then in order to repair the sewing machine, you need to reduce the pressure of the presser foot, and then check the condition of the needle. It's likely that she's too dumb.

Important! Update your wardrobe! Treat yourself to a new culotte. For detailed sewing instructions, see our master class “How to sew a skirt-trousers with your own hands?”

Machine care:

• After prolonged work, you must clean the shuttle section and other accessible places from fringes, dust, and oil stains. Periodically clean the shuttle itself, using a stiff hair brush, the shuttle mechanism.
• Lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, run it idle for a while, especially if the machine has just been standing there for a long time. The oil will heat up slightly during operation and penetrate much better into the friction points and units.
• The fierce enemy of absolutely all mechanisms are rust and dirt. So try to keep your car in a cool and dry place.
• If the machine is not going to be used for a long period of time, make sure that dust does not get into it. Otherwise, the oil will harden from dust, and the machine will turn poorly, or even jam.

Important! It is better to put machine oil into a medical syringe, then drop small drops into accessible places where friction of metal parts occurs.

Important! Do you like to wear dresses? Find out about a very practical model - the trapeze dress.

Important! It is precisely the fastening of the tension regulator that is most often the cause of poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the influence of the screw, and over time the tensioner begins to wobble or even fall out of the case.

In order to fix this, unscrew the screw slightly, adjust its position, making sure that the groove and the blade of the needle are in the correct location in relation to the shuttle itself.

Important! The parka is universal clothing. It can be worn with jeans or an evening dress. Can't find the right model for sale? Follow the link and follow the steps of the master class to sew a parka with your own hands.

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Setting the interaction between the needle and spout:

• Calibration of the shuttle mechanisms of sewing machines “Chaika”, “Podolsk”, “Veritas” and so on, which perform zigzag stitches, involves setting the position of the looper tip higher than the eye of the needle by 1, 2, 3 mm at the moment the looper tip approaches the needle itself .

Important! This parameter is checked at the moment when the sewing machine produces more than just a straight stitch.

• The nose of the shuttle must simultaneously pass almost next to the blade of your needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form stitches without skipping. Loosen the screw with a 10mm wrench, at the same time hold the flywheel with your hand, turn the shaft along with the shuttle stroke itself, adjusting the position of the shuttle nose to the needle.

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Video material

In this article, we looked at the most common problems with a sewing machine and told you how to fix this or that situation. We hope, thanks to this information, from now on you will not have problems with sewing, and all your planned masterpieces will turn out as intended by design and in good quality.

serviceyard.net

How to disassemble a sewing machine - Easy

How to disassemble a sewing machine

Finding out or at least seeing a photo of how a modern sewing machine works is not only educational, but also useful. Be sure to read this series of articles dedicated to repairing modern household sewing machines. A visual representation of the structure of a sewing machine will help you make the right choice when purchasing it, and will also make you treat it more carefully later.

It is quite difficult to disassemble a modern sewing machine yourself, but in most cases you will not have to do this. But there are still cases when you have to disassemble the sewing machine yourself. For example, when you need to replace an electric drive, a stitch does not form, the needle breaks, etc., and there is no way to go to a workshop, since there is simply none in your city or town.

In this article you will learn how to properly disassemble (remove) the plastic covers of a modern household sewing machine, a regular inexpensive model from Brother, Janome and any other.

1. What tools are needed

Almost all models of modern economy-class household machines are assembled in China and therefore, in order to disconnect the plastic parts of the case, you only need Phillips screwdrivers. One screwdriver should have a Phillips slot for medium-sized screws and one a little more powerful, even with a flat slot.

Screws on cars made in Europe (sometimes made in Taiwan) often have some peculiarity. They can only be unscrewed with a special screwdriver (star) with a special slot. First, look at what kind of screwdriver you can use to unscrew the housing mount; you may have to buy one specially for this in the store. This photo shows the types of modern screwdrivers and screws. By the way, we will be disassembling the sewing machine in the foreground. It's called "Dragonfly" - China. Its body is assembled with ordinary cross-shaped screws.

2. Before disassembling the machine

First, remove all parts that do not require special tools. Start with the removable table, then remove the tab. Remove the needle plate. To do this, use a flat-head screwdriver to unscrew just one screw (sometimes two). Naturally, you need to remove the bobbin and the plastic hook or bobbin case. remove the coil and to avoid injury, it does not hurt to remove the needle. Now you need to unscrew the screw indicated by the arrow in the photo and carefully remove the front cover. There is a special latch at the top of the lid; you need to disengage it before “pulling it out” by force.

All screws do not need to be put in one “pile”. When you start putting it back together, it will be difficult for you to determine which screw was placed where. Therefore, mark them in any way convenient for you. For example, you can place a piece of paper with a note next to each screw(s).

3. We begin to disassemble the sewing machine

Now we will begin to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather, disconnect its plastic body, consisting of two halves. But first, remove the shuttle compartment cover. To do this, unscrew the screws indicated by the arrows. Just like the front cover, this part, in addition to screws, is also attached with latches. To loosen them, you need to insert a screwdriver into the slot and try to gently move the cover to the left. On the back side where the handwheel is located, remove the stitch selection knob. Just pull it hard to the right. Immediately pay attention to how it stood, so that it would be easier to install it back.

And two more types of fastenings are located at the bottom of the machine body. For many models of sewing machines, the rubber feet at the bottom of the body are also the fastening of the plastic body to the metal frame of the sewing machine. In any case, in this model of the machine the two rear legs serve as such fastenings. But since we will only be removing the front part of the case, unscrew only one leg (the upper right one).

For all sewing machines of this class, it is necessary to release the fastening indicated in the photo by the letter (A). Moreover, both screws do not need to be unscrewed; it is enough to release only the front side cover. In this case, you need to unscrew the top screw.

4. Unscrew the most difficult to reach screw

The very last, but most inconspicuous screw (B) remains. It is located deep in the front part of the machine. Even with high magnification it is not visible in the photo. The screw that is so clearly visible does not need to be unscrewed. This is the upper thread tensioner mount. By the way, it remains in place after removing the cover. Take this moment into account and do not try to remove it. Actually, it is not difficult to unscrew the screw itself; it will be much more difficult to put it back. Therefore, hold the screwdriver on the magnet for a while, this will help you later.

Now you can remove the front cover, although it should be noted that other models may have an additional fastener, but the principle is approximately the same. Look carefully, your machine may have an additional mount in the lower part of the body. It happens that the fastening of the covers is hidden by plugs. Using a knife blade, pry the plug on the back of the machine and make sure there is no additional fastening there.

By the way, it is with the help of a knife that you will have to remove the cover, since in addition to the screws, there are latches at the ends of the covers. Place the blade of a knife between the ladles of the body and carefully try to push them apart, moving the latches. It’s just difficult to immediately determine where they are located, so be patient if you really decide that you definitely need to disassemble the sewing machine.

5. How to separate two parts of the case

This is roughly the “picture” you will see when you can disassemble your sewing machine. It's probably worth noting that the hardest part is not finding all the screws that secure the covers to the case and to each other. It is very difficult to carefully remove the covers and disconnect their latches. If you do this hastily, you can damage the plastic, which will not only ruin the appearance of the machine, but will also interfere with its operation. Rough parts in the machine sleeve area will cling to fabrics and even form puffs.

It is important to firmly decide whether you need to disassemble the machine yourself or not. If there is no other option, then be patient and attentive. Well, why we need to disassemble it, we have already mentioned above, but we will look at it in more detail in other articles.

The structure of a modern sewing machine How a modern household sewing machine with an electric drive works. Basic malfunctions of components and mechanisms.

How to disassemble the machine and replace the electric drive Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic body of the machine in order to gain access to some components. Such a need arises very rarely and it arises only when it is necessary to replace the sewing machine motor or drive belt.

Electric drive of a sewing machine Just like the pedal, the electric motor should not be repaired yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine either works or it doesn't. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it needs to be replaced.

Device for winding thread on a bobbin Such a “trifle” as winding thread on a bobbin often creates a lot of inconvenience. For some reason, it is not always possible to do this quickly and “without problems.” Let's figure out why it is sometimes difficult to wind thread onto a bobbin and what needs to be done to fix minor damage to the winder.

Sewing machine Veritas Rubina The master's opinion about which sewing machine is the best. Learn more about a used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.

How to properly lubricate an overlocker Sometimes, you need to remove the covers of the overlocker and lubricate all the rubbing parts located inside the case. What you need to pay attention to and how to do it yourself.

How a sewing pedal works We do not recommend repairing a sewing pedal yourself. We only give advice on how to prevent it from breaking. The most common cause of pedal failure is its long wires.

http://www.sewing-master.ru

legkoe-delo.ru

How to use a sewing machine

Today, when the choice of manual and compact sewing machines is quite large, anyone can learn the basics of tailoring. And, if there are no problems with the purchase of the unit, then in order to understand how to use a sewing machine, you may need enough time and patience. The efforts made will more than pay off when you can not only skillfully repair your things, but also pamper yourself with products of an exclusive pattern and design.

In this article, we will try to simplify the process of mastering the art of sewing for you as much as possible, and will also introduce you to the main nuances of all stages: from threading to starting sewing.

Let's look at the instructions

Regardless of what type of machine you purchase (manual, mini, foot-operated, electric...), it will definitely come with instructions in several languages. Ask the seller if the instructions contain explanations in a language you understand. The same applies to purchasing a machine second-hand - ask for instructions, so that in any unclear situation you have somewhere to turn for help.

Of course, if you are dealing with an old, even rare model from Singer or Podolsk, in most cases you will have to understand the intricacies of their work without documents. But the main advantage of old machines over modern ones is their simplicity and reliability of mechanisms, and recommendations for operation can be easily found in any “classic” book on sewing and cutting.

When studying the instructions, pay special attention to what you should never do with the machine: keeping the tool in working condition will be the first step towards mastering sewing.

The process of operating a modern sewing machine (including mini machines) is simplified as much as possible, and each part in them is located in a strictly designated place and performs a specific action.

Learning to refuel the machine

Before you start sewing, the machine must be properly threaded. And it doesn’t matter what kind of machine you are dealing with: mini or manual, foot-operated or old - without a coil it is of no use. Let's start with the top thread, which must be threaded through a series of holes in a strictly established sequence.

Having grabbed the end of the thread, we run it through the miniature window on the back of the device, after which we go to the tension regulator, follow through a couple of loops and finally reach the needle. The procedure for refueling your machine model, established in the instructions, must under no circumstances be violated. Otherwise, the risk of thread chafing and malfunction of the entire device will increase.

Remember: on the body of every modern machine (even manual or mini) there are symbols and arrows that help you navigate and quickly understand how and where the thread is threaded.

Now we move on to the second step - threading the shuttle (the device into which the bobbin with thread is inserted). Regardless of the type and model of the machine, the bobbin is installed in the hook in such a way that the thread comes out clockwise. To facilitate work and significantly save craftswomen’s time, manufacturers today produce not only reels, but also ready-made bobbins with wound threads. The main thing is to achieve the same thickness and quality of the upper and lower threads.

Putting a needle

Find out how to insert the needle into your machine. Buy a set of different sewing machine needles: with only one needle, you will not be able to work with fabrics of different thicknesses. Handicraft magazines or specialized formulas will help you find information about what needle and thread you will need to make the product you are interested in. Following each recommendation from the instructions, install the needle in the place intended for it and remember how you did it. If the needle is installed incorrectly, there is a possibility that it will fly out during high-speed sewing, or the fabric and threads will break.

Before sewing

Determine and remember where the thread tension controls are located (especially the top one) and the lever (wheel) that sets the stitch length (the interval between two adjacent fabric punctures, usually measured in millimeters). Find out what types of stitches your machine can make (zigzag, patterned, etc.), how to switch between them, and whether it is possible to sew buttonholes. Install the device so that you feel comfortable at your intended workplace. When working with a manual machine, hold the fabric with your left hand and turn the handle with your right (vice versa for left-handed people). With a foot operated machine, both hands are freed up and you have more control over the sewing process.

Before you start making (or repairing) a large product, adjust the device and test the quality of the seam on a small piece of the same material.

Features of using a mini sewing machine

Pros of a mini sewing machine:

• Compactness;
• Lack of many mechanisms;
• Ease of operation;
• Self-set stitch spacing.

Compactness is the main advantage of this device. You can take it with you on the road and repair things whenever necessary, because using a mini machine is very simple. Following the simple instructions, thread the thread into the mechanism and immediately start sewing! With it, you don’t have to bother with installing the shuttle, winding bobbins and delving into the structure of the device for a long time. Using just one thread, we hold the machine in our hand and, working in the same way as with a stapler, we make stitch by stitch, independently choosing their intervals.

It will also be indispensable for minor repairs to curtains, which can be done on the spot without removing the curtains from the curtain rod.

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