A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of lifesaver in case of unforeseen situations. In design, it resembles equipment for supplying drinking water, but has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.

But like any other equipment, equipment can fail. Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out whether it is possible to repair the drainage pump with your own hands if necessary.

The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large amounts of sand, and organic residues is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.

It is better to get acquainted with the internal contents of the device immediately after purchase, in order to understand which parts may fail if clogged or broken. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble it - just study the diagram that comes with the instructions for connecting and servicing the device.

The suction hole of the pump unit can have a different location: for submersible models it is located at the bottom and is equipped with a filter mesh

Devices for private use in summer cottages are not very powerful or have complex features. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), and consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.

The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The engine is located inside a durable housing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.

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Summer residents use special equipment to ensure smooth operation of the well. The name of the functional device is pump.

The Water Jet pump is one of the popular units among summer residents

This equipment converts the mechanical energy of the engine into the energy of water flow, creates and transports a fluid flow.

The device can withstand heavy loads. In spring or summer, the equipment is used every day. Because of this, individual parts and components wear out, and breakdowns occur. Hydraulic machine adjusters advise regularly inspecting and repairing equipment so that you don’t have to purchase new ones.

Gilex borehole pumps are preferred by 70% of summer residents. Why is this trend observed? People are attracted by the operation of the device without interruption, the hydraulic efficiency indicator, and the reasonable price. The Gilex water jet pump has these qualities. These are not Chinese products of low quality. There are only positive reviews about the Gilex brand pump. Developed by a Russian company located in the city of Klimovsk. The equipment was invented to supply liquid from:

• bodies of water;
• wells;
• containers;
• wells with a diameter of 10 cm or more.

Head to the Gilex service center to have any model of unit repaired quickly and professionally! There is no way to contact the organization? Submersible repairs are real! Familiarize yourself with the design of the device before starting work.

When disassembling the pump, number the parts so that there are no problems during assembly.

Equipment design

The well pump is equipped with the main parts - a pumping element and an electric motor, which are enclosed in a solid stainless steel housing. The remaining moving elements of the unit are located in the housing. The back and front covers are also used. The design of the equipment is such that the floating wheels move closer to each other.

The motor of the hydraulic machine is asynchronous, sealed. The device is equipped with a rotor placed on rolling bearings. The engine is filled with oil. The key part of the unit is protected from overheating by a thermal protector located in the stator winding. The engine is cooled by pumping water. If there is no flow, the equipment should not be allowed to operate. Submerge the device under water to 30 meters.

Water jet pumps are labeled differently, and the number of stages is different. Internal components are divided into four types:

1. impeller;
2. cup;
3. anti-friction washer;
4. bottom of the glass.

Some elements are made of snow-white plastic. The size of the parts is equal. Externally, the components look like mushrooms. Cylindrical glasses are made of black polyamide. One “cylinder” is equipped with a belt that rests on a plastic ring. The “curl” is located close to the motor. The disk with a hole in the core is the bottom of the glass. The anti-friction washer is located between the cylinder and the impeller. The element is mounted on the shaft. The purpose of the part is to prevent friction of the elements. When dismantling equipment, products in white and blue colors are marked.

Disassembly is carried out carefully, in strict sequence. It is recommended to lay out the component parts of the unit in the order in which they were originally installed.

Do not confuse the bottom and top of the elements. Otherwise, after assembling the parts, the equipment will stop pumping water.

It is very important to assemble the upper and lower parts correctly, this affects the performance of the pump

Common problems

After long-term operation of a unit called Vodomet, an avid summer resident encounters problems due to wear of parts. The pump will require urgent repairs. A common equipment breakdown is lack of water pumping. Often the control panel of the device breaks or an air lock forms inside the device.

The water jet may not function properly due to improper installation or installation of the valve. In this case, there is a weak liquid pressure.

This can be done independently or with the help of special service employees.

Is the unit not pumping water? Is the equipment humming or making no sound? Does the user receive an electric shock when touching the body? The device needs urgent repair! All signs indicate abrasion of the covers, which are placed between the impellers and steps. To solve the problem, the unit is disassembled and damaged covers and impellers are replaced. The capacitor breaks due to water entering the cavity of the condenser compartment through the cable passage. The part must be replaced. It is recommended to verify the integrity of the cable and the presence of voltage in the electrical network.

If the control panel of the device breaks down, it is better to seek help from a specialist. Carrying out repairs on your own is difficult.

The device turns on, but no liquid is pumped? Check if the valve is in the correct place. There is an air lock inside the device - eliminate the problem by immersing the pump even deeper. Install the valve at a height of 100 cm or more.

Was the check valve installed incorrectly? Remove the pump and reinstall the element.

The device is turned on, but the water supply is partial, the pressure is weakening? It is possible that the unit was operated for a long time without being turned off. Low pressure is a consequence of a clogged cleaning filter. The component part of the device must be disassembled and cleaned or replaced.

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In the event of a breakdown, Gilex pumps must be repaired. This is not difficult to do if you become familiar with the design of the devices.

For a country house, the failure of a water pump means a daily trip with buckets to the well. The situation becomes more complicated if the water supply on the site is arranged around a well. Any person who is more or less familiar with technology can repair a “Rucheek” or “Malysh”, but the “Vodomet” submersible pump is not so easy to set up. The consequence of unqualified repairs may be contamination of the well with oil, which can only be eliminated by specialists.

If there is a Gilex service center nearby, of course, it is better to go there. But if this is not possible (the service center is far away, there is no time), you will have to repair the Vodomet pump yourself.

What does the pump consist of - let's look at the details

Vodomet borehole pumps, depending on the marking, have a different number of repeating stages. All internal parts can be divided into four types: impeller, glass, glass bottom and anti-friction washer. The first ones are made of white plastic. They are the same size, externally they resemble a mushroom - they have a stem and a cap.

The “glasses” are, of course, cylinders made of black polyamide. One of them has a belt resting on a white plastic ring. It is inserted oppositely closer to the motor in the pump housing. It is very difficult to take it out.

The bottom of the “glass” is a disk made of the same material. There is a hole in its center. They are inserted into the “glass” so as to form a double bottom.

Between the “glass” and the impeller, an anti-friction washer is placed on the shaft, which prevents friction of the parts. When disassembling there are white and blue ones. The latter are a little thinner.

It is also better to lay out all the parts of the pump part in the order in which they were installed (in the photo along the arrow). It is important not to confuse the top and bottom of the parts so that after assembly the pump pumps water. In different models of “Water Cannon” the number of degrees is different

This whole mechanism works as follows: the engine rotates the impeller “glasses” between their own bottom and the removable bottom of the next one. The cylinders themselves do not rotate, as they are sandwiched between a white plastic ring and the cover. By unscrewing it, the entire process of disassembling the Vodomet deep-well pump begins.

Let's disassemble the Vodomet pump using the example of model 60/52

Several models of Vodomet pumps are suitable for wells: if the static water level is no more than five meters, then these are models 60/32 and 150/30, and if from five to twenty-five, then 60/52 and 150/45.

You need to disassemble the pump carefully, numbering all the parts along the way and recording the order in which they were installed

Let's look at the repair procedure using the Vodomet 60/52 pump as an example. We start by disassembling and removing all parts:

• Unscrew the cap with water intake holes. If you have to clamp the case in a vice, you need to do it carefully, since it is hollow inside. It is better to put thick rubber on all sides;
• We disassemble the pump part (washers, “cups” with a bottom, impeller and everything else). All parts removed from the shaft must be carefully laid out so that they can be installed later in the same order;
• We take out the retaining ring (white plastic) and the engine from the outer “glass”. To do this, the pump is placed vertically on a table with a hole for the shaft. You need to hit the top fitting cap lightly with a rubber mallet so that the engine moves the ring a little. There's no point in trying to pull it out through the thread; it won't go through anyway. Then place the pump horizontally, pull the cable a little and pull the motor back. Next, on one side, you need to rest against the white ring with a long screwdriver and hit it so that it moves a few degrees. We unfold it with our hands across the pipe and remove it from the body. In the same direction you need to remove the engine;
• Remove the cover of the compartment in which the wires are located. It is held in place by two rubber seals. We place the engine on its side and, using a wide screwdriver and a rubber mallet, carefully knock it out in a circle.

Only non-toxic oil can be poured into the pump motor so as not to poison the water in the well in the event of an accident. As a rule, glycerin is used. 0.5 liter is enough for replacement

Only biologically safe oil can be poured into the engine. This is usually glycerin. The use of machine oils is strictly prohibited. In addition to the usual oil film, once it gets into the well, it can make the water unsuitable for further use.

Malfunctions that are not written about in the passport

The passport for the pumps outlines the main malfunctions, their causes and solutions. True, in most cases it is recommended to contact a service center. In addition to the breakdowns outlined in the accompanying documentation, experts name two more that occur most often:

• when turned on, the pump does not pump water, but its faint hum is heard;
• When the “Water Cannon” is turned on, it does not make any sounds, but produces an electric shock.

The first group of signs indicates that the covers between the stages and the impellers are completely worn out. The pump will not work. It needs to be disassembled and worn impellers and covers replaced. In the second case, we are talking about a faulty capacitor. It is most likely caused by water entering the condenser compartment through the cable inlet. The faulty part must be replaced in any case.

And one more thing. You can try to order all the necessary parts either from service centers or directly from the manufacturer. In the latter case, their cost will be minimal.

It is usually created using a pumping station. It’s clear that it’s better if it works without problems, but breakdowns do happen from time to time. To quickly restore water supply and save on services, you can repair the pumping station yourself. Most of the breakdowns can be fixed on your own - you don’t have to do anything too complicated.

Composition of the pumping station and purpose of parts

A pumping station is a collection of individual devices connected to each other. To understand how to repair a pumping station, you need to know what it consists of and how each part works. Then troubleshooting is easier. Composition of the pumping station:

Each part is responsible for a specific parameter, but one type of malfunction can be caused by the failure of various devices.

Operating principle of the pumping station

Now let's look at how all these devices work. When the system is first started, the pump pumps water into the accumulator until the pressure in it (and in the system) is equal to the upper threshold set on the pressure switch. While there is no water flow, the pressure is stable, the pump is turned off.

Somewhere they opened a tap, drained the water, etc. For some time, water comes from the accumulator. When its quantity decreases so much that the pressure in the accumulator drops below a threshold, the pressure switch is activated and turns on the pump, which pumps water again. It is again switched off by the pressure switch when the upper threshold is reached - the shutdown threshold.

If there is a constant flow of water (a bathtub is being filled, the watering of the garden is turned on), the pump operates for a long time: until the required pressure is created in the hydraulic accumulator. This periodically happens even when all the taps are open, since the pump supplies less water than flows out from all points of analysis. After the flow has stopped, the station operates for some time, creating the required reserve in the gyroaccumulator, then turns off and turns on after water flow appears again.

Problems and malfunctions of pumping stations and their correction

All pumping stations consist of the same parts and their breakdowns are mostly typical. It makes no difference whether the equipment is Grundfos, Jumbo, Alco or any other company. The diseases and their treatment are the same. The difference is how often these malfunctions occur, but their list and causes are usually identical.

The pumping station does not turn off (does not gain pressure)

Sometimes you notice that the pump has been running for a long time and will not turn off. If you look at the pressure gauge, you can see that the pumping station is not gaining pressure. In this case, repairing the pumping station is a long process - you will have to go through a large number of reasons:

If the shutdown limit of the pressure switch is much lower than the maximum pressure that the pump can create, and for some time it worked normally, but then stopped, the reason is different. Possibly at the pump the impeller has worked. Immediately after the purchase, he coped, but during operation the impeller wore out and “now I don’t have enough strength.” Repair of the pumping station in this case means replacing the pump impeller or purchasing a new unit.

Another possible reason is low voltage in the network. Maybe the pump is still working at this voltage, but the pressure switch is no longer triggered. The solution is a voltage stabilizer. These are the main reasons why the pumping station does not turn off and does not build up pressure. There are quite a lot of them, so the repair of the pumping station can take a long time.

Pumping station repair: turns on frequently

Frequent activation of the pump and short periods of its operation lead to rapid wear of the equipment, which is very undesirable. Therefore, repairs to the pumping station must be carried out immediately after the “symptom” is detected. This situation occurs for the following reasons:

Now you know why the pumping station often turns on and what to do about it. By the way, there is another possible reason - pipeline leakage or some kind of connection, so if all of the above does not apply to your case, check if the joint is leaking somewhere.

Air in water

There is always a small amount of air in the water, but when the faucet starts spitting, something is not working correctly. There may also be several reasons:

The pumping station does not turn on

The first thing to check is the voltage. Pumps are very demanding when it comes to voltage; at low voltage they simply don’t work. If everything is normal with the voltage, the situation is worse - most likely the motor is faulty. In this case, the station is taken to a service center or a new pump is installed.

If the system does not work, you need to check the electrical part

Other reasons include a faulty plug/socket, a frayed cord, burnt/oxidized contacts where the electrical cable is attached to the motor. This is something you can check and fix yourself. More serious repairs to the electrical part of the pumping station are carried out by specialists.

The motor hums, but does not pump water (the impeller does not rotate)

This malfunction may be caused low voltage in the network. Check it, if everything is normal, move on. We need to check if it's burned out capacitor in terminal block. We take it, check it, change it if necessary. If this is not the reason, we move on to the mechanical part.

First, you should check whether there is water in the well or borehole. Next, check the filter and check valve. Maybe they are clogged or faulty. Clean, check operation, lower the pipeline into place, and start the pumping station again.

We check the impeller - this is already a serious repair of the pumping station

If that doesn't help, the impeller may be jammed. Then try turning the shaft manually. Sometimes, after a long period of inactivity, it “sticks” - it becomes overgrown with salts and cannot move on its own. If you cannot move the blades by hand, the impeller may be jammed. Then we continue the repair of the pumping station by removing the protective casing and unlocking the impeller.

Some types of repair work

Some steps to repair a pumping station with your own hands are intuitive. For example, cleaning a check valve or filter is not difficult, but replacing a membrane or bulb in a hydraulic accumulator can be difficult without preparation.

Replacing the “pear” of the hydraulic accumulator

The first sign that the membrane is damaged is frequent and short-term switching on of the pumping station, and the water is supplied in jerks: sometimes strong pressure, sometimes weak. To make sure that the problem is in the membrane, remove the plug on the nipple. If it is not air but water that comes out of it, then the membrane is torn.

To begin repairs, disconnect the system from the power supply, relieve the pressure - open the taps and wait until the water drains. After this you can turn it off.

• Loosen the flange at the bottom of the tank. We wait until the water drains.
• Unscrew all the bolts and remove the flange.
• If the tank is 100 liters or more, unscrew the membrane holder nut at the top of the tank.
• We remove the membrane through the hole in the bottom of the container.
• We rinse the tank - there is usually a lot of rust-colored sediment in it.
• The new membrane must be exactly the same as the damaged one. We insert the fitting into it, which secures the upper part to the body (tighten it).
• We install the membrane in the accumulator tank.
• If there is one, install the membrane holder nut in the upper part. If the tank is large, you won't be able to reach it with your hand. You can tie the holder to a rope and install the part in place by screwing on the nut.
• We tighten the neck and press it with a flange, install the bolts, sequentially tightening them several turns.
• We connect to the system and check the operation.

Replacement of the pump station membrane is completed. The matter is not complicated, but you need to know the nuances.

Submersible pump “Vodomet” - this unit is on a par with the well-known “Malysh” and “Rucheyok” - brands whose name was transformed into a proper name, denoting a whole niche in the market for small-sized and simple pumps for autonomous wells.

At the same time, all of the above-mentioned units attract consumers not only with their reasonable price and noticeable performance, but also with the ease with which repair work is carried out to restore the functionality of the pumps.

Therefore, in this article we will look at repairing the Gilex Vodomet pump using the 60/52 model as an example. In a word, we invite you to appreciate the simplicity of the design solution of this unit and get acquainted with the secrets of its repair. Perhaps this will determine your preferences when choosing a pump for an autonomous water supply system.

Borehole pumps "Vodomet": overview of the typical design

The basis of any pump is the casing. And this part of the “Water Cannon” unit is made in the form of a metal cylinder. It is in it that the engine is mounted, on the shaft of which the impeller is placed.

Moreover, the impeller is separated from the engine compartment by a special liner through which the shaft passes. In turn, the impeller itself consists of a repeating set of disks, alternating in the following order:

1 - First white disk with external blades, 2 - First black washer, matching in diameter with the white disk, 3 - First “glass” with internal blades, 4 - Second white disk with blades, 5 - Second washer, 6 - Third white disk with blades, 7 — Second “glass” with internal blades, 8 — Third washer, 9 — Fourth disk with external blades, 10 — Third “glass” with internal blades, 11 — Fourth washer, 12 — Fourth “glass” with internal blades, 13 — Fifth washer, 14 — White plug with perforation in the center, 15 —
Black lid with a round hole in the center, 16 - Short cylinder with a mesh at the bottom - filter element

This is exactly how any Vodomet pump is designed. That is, a similar alternation of disks, washers and “cups” is present in models designed to operate in 5-meter water columns (series 60/32, 150/30), and in devices submersible to 20-40 meters (series 60 /52, 150/45). During assembly, a small anti-friction washer (blue and white) is installed between each element. All other elements - washers, disks, and “cups” - are made of polyamide.

This pump is designed for vertical installation in clean water, which is quite typical for all submersible units of the Vodomet brand. Moreover, its design is practically no different from similar products from other model ranges of this brand. Therefore, the repair procedure applicable to model 60/52 can be extended to other pumps from .

Repairing the Vodomet 60/52 pump: how it’s done

Submersible pumps fail for three reasons:

• Firstly, in case of siltation of the impeller.
• Secondly, in the event of a break in the electrical cable.
• Thirdly, in case of failure of engine compartment components (stator or rotor).

Moreover, when diagnosing a problem, you should be guided by the following rules:

• If during a test run the shaft of a pump removed from the well rotates, then the impeller is the problem area. Clean it of sludge and the pump can be reassembled in reverse order.
• If the pump does not even turn on, then you need to check (ring with a tester) the power cable. If there is voltage at the engine compartment terminals, then the cable is intact. Well, if not, then it will have to be replaced with a new one. Finding a break and fixing it by twisting or soldering is not the best idea. After all, the tightness of the cable will still be broken.
• If the cable is fine, then the problem is in the motor. And the pump will have to be disassembled to the engine compartment to remove and rewind the stator or rotor.

And in each case, repair of the unit begins with complete disassembly.

• A short cylinder with a perforated bottom is screwed from the end of the pump - a filter element that protects the impeller from silting.
• Next, all washers, “cups” and disks are removed from the pump motor shaft in the reverse order to that described above (in the review of the impeller design). Moreover, all numerous elements should be laid on a flat area of ​​the workbench in the order of removal from the body. After all, the impeller consists of 16 parts. And this is not counting the same number of anti-friction washers.
• Further disassembly down to the engine compartment level begins with the removal of the engine retaining ring covering the engine cover. To do this, you need to hit the upper fitting with a mallet, move the engine down, and then pull the cord to return it to its place. Moreover, after all the manipulations, the sealing ring will remain in the “shifted” position. Next, the retaining ring is displaced by hitting it with a screwdriver to the part closest to the body. The stopper will warp, after which it can be removed.
• After this, you need to disconnect the wires by opening the cover of the corresponding compartment, and, using a screwdriver and a mallet, “knock out” the engine from the housing.

After removal from the housing, the impeller elements are washed and dried, and the engine is sent for diagnostics and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning the impeller and updating the engine, the Vodomet 60/52 pump is assembled in the reverse order to that described above.