Installation

How to make a tabletop circular from a manual one. How to make a circular saw with your own hands

19.08.2023

If a person lives in a private house or has a garden plot, then the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home craftsman is not only desirable, but sometimes necessary. Unfortunately, the cost of an industrially manufactured sample of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply unaffordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using the drive of a sewing machine or a regular electric drill. However, the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed largely depend on the bed of the circular saw.

Bed design

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8...12 kilowatts, is quite easy to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. For the drive, you can use an electric drill “BOSCH GSB 19-2” (power 0.85 kilowatts) or “DWT SBM-1050” (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you must purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Of course, a wooden bed is not suitable for professional work, but in order to unravel boards and quickly saw through bars, such a homemade design is quite sufficient.

In general, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, when manually making a circular saw yourself, you must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the work table will primarily be determined by the design of the cutting blade mounting unit. Homemade circular devices use either a circular disk mounted directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-support shaft driven into rotation by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of making a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the sawn piece. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps.
Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade. The easiest way is to install it manually on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint.
The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with a homemade device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover over the cutting edge of the disk.

Base design

For safe operation of a homemade circular saw, the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and durable base. To make it manually, the master’s imagination is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld it from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the size of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing nuances

The main parameter that determines the design of a homemade “circular saw” is the thickness of the boards being cut. For household work with your own hands, it is usually not necessary to saw wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of the cut, you can use and/or make a special mechanism for lifting the disk, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the rotation speed of its shaft should be taken into account. Using a belt drive, you can change the speed with your own hands. If you intend to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with variable chuck rotation speed, then using such a hand-made circular saw will be a pleasure.

Conclusion

Despite the primitiveness of the described design, it will significantly facilitate DIY homework, from carpentry operations with boards to cross-cutting thick branches cut from garden trees.

A circular saw is an important and necessary tool for many people, allowing them to independently do numerous types of work around the house. It is quite expensive, so many people are thinking about making it on their own. To do this, you need to prepare a workbench or table of the optimal size to replace this tool, and you also need to have the ability to work with metal. During the process, you should be careful and careful so as not to harm yourself, and also to get the perfect result of the work.

Do-it-yourself circular is made using the following components:

  • rectangular profile pipe;
  • corners formed from steel;
  • engine.

How to make a hand saw from a grinder?

A homemade circular saw made from a circular saw with your own hands is considered quite popular. A grinder is most often used for this work. To do this, only some changes are made to the finished tool, which is equipped with a special sliding stop, and an axial handle is also installed.

All work on independently creating a circular saw from a grinder consists of the following steps:

  • A sliding stop is created on the tool, represented by two small corners made of metal. They are installed on both sides of the main working body of the tool, represented by a disk with different teeth, used instead of a standard abrasive wheel. In this case, a gap of 4 mm is left on each side.
  • To prevent the installed corners from clinging to the part being processed when using the finished saw, they must be slightly rounded from below. In front and behind they are connected by special transverse links, for which standard fasteners are used - bolts and nuts.
  • A special clamp made of a tape formed from metal is attached to the grinder itself. In this case, its screw tie should be at the bottom of the tool. A strip of tin, previously folded in half, is fixed to this clamp, and it can be replaced with galvanized steel. This element must have a special hole designed to fix the rear bolt of the sliding stop.
  • Identical gaps are created between the stop of the future circular saw and its working body.
  • In the gearbox housing, which is an important element of the angle grinder, 2 to 4 threaded holes are created. They are designed to use small bolts. For this work, the gearbox is initially disassembled in order to determine exactly where holes can be created in its body with a drill. It is with their help that the axial handle is fixed, which can be purchased ready-made or made on your own.
  • If you plan to make the axial handle yourself, then a metal tube is used for this, and a metal rod with an unusual curved shape can also be used. In the created handle, as well as in the gearbox housing, holes for fastening are formed, after which the fixation itself is realized.
  • Next, an adjustment rod is created, for which a small section of a steel rod is usually used, and its thickness is usually 5 mm. One end of this segment is bent, resulting in a loop. A hole is created for the front stop bolt. Washers are selected on the front part of the stop, which will allow you to obtain a uniform and optimal gap width. On the other side of the rod, a thread is formed that fits into a hole on the saw handle. To do this, a nut is screwed onto this hole in advance, and as soon as the assembly is completed, the second nut is also screwed on. With the help of these nuts, which are easily tightened or loosened, the optimal and desired cutting depth is ensured.

Thus, the process of creating a manual circular plate is considered quite simple. There is no need to use expensive tools and materials, and all work can be easily done on your own.

How to make a tabletop circulation cooker?

You can even make a table for a circular table with your own hands with drawings that are formed in advance and are also high-quality and correct. With their help, you can obtain a design that is of high quality, safe to use and efficient.

A full-fledged circular saw, formed on your own, is represented by a serious, complex and unusual design, which is created only with preliminary consideration of all its elements, study of drawings and preparation of materials and tools.

It is important to decide whether the circular saw will be stationary or tabletop, and the choice depends on how often the tool will be used, as well as the scale of work expected to be carried out with its help.

Construction of a standard circular saw





“Real” stationary circular saw

A do-it-yourself circular table, the drawings of which are freely available, can be created easily and quickly if you know its design well. If all components are separately formed and prepared, the result is that they simply fit together securely and tightly, ensuring an optimal design.

The main elements of this equipment include:

  • Table. It is usually covered with a sheet made of galvanized steel or tin. It is not allowed to use plastic or wood for these purposes, since these materials will not be able to withstand the significant impact of other materials and will therefore wear through, resulting in deformations, bends and holes.
  • Cross connections. They are created for a table, and usually for these purposes a steel corner is used, the thickness of which is approximately 7 cm. These connections are equipped with a shelf attached from the outside in a horizontal position. In this case, the ease of forming the side limiter is ensured.
  • Working body of a circular saw. It is represented by a toothed disk that protrudes beyond the table, as this ensures a good sawing process for various elements.
  • The motor of the equipment must be powerful enough. Its choice depends on the diameter of the saw. If you plan to work with lumber whose thickness exceeds 15 cm, then a very powerful motor is selected, so the process of creating a circular saw will be quite complicated, since it is difficult to find this element in the public domain.
  • Side support. It is made adjustable, and to create it, an even piece of steel angle is used, the thickness of which is approximately 7 cm. This stop should be approximately 35 cm longer than the length of the table. One vertical shelf on each side is cut off, so it is equal to the length of the table . The tails, which are flat, curve downward. Holes for threading are formed in their lower shelves. The stop is attached to the table with bolts, and it is aligned exactly according to the template.
  • Shaft. It is an important piece of equipment, and it is advisable to purchase it ready-made so that it has high quality and reliability. Usually the finished element has a special seat intended for the future saw blade.
  • Bearings. They may be different, but the best choice is considered to be self-aligning elements that are ball-shaped. They are equipped with a double row of special balls. The inside of the holder is curvilinear in cross-section. If you use cheap and low-quality bearings in a homemade circular saw, they will not last too long. The journals are equipped with covers that prevent sawdust from getting into the bearings.
  • Saw transfer. Usually a V-belt design is chosen, since if you choose a gear design, it is considered quite dangerous for amateur use. This is due to the fact that if lumber is used that has previously been used for other purposes, then it may contain a nail or other fastening element, which, if it gets on the transmission, can cause the engine disk to simply fly apart.
  • Gear ratio. It is selected depending on the engine parameters, namely its speed and the disk rotation speed.
  • Engine. It is best to choose an asynchronous motor, which is single-phase. Typically, standard washing machines are equipped with such elements. They are ideal for a homemade circular saw. It is not advisable to use commutator motors, which are usually installed in various electrical appliances, since they produce extremely high speeds and also cannot operate for too long, which is considered important for a circular machine.
  • A three-phase motor is often used, but it is supplemented by a starting and running capacitor, which are equipped with fittings. They have a significant cost, and they must be either oil-paper or just paper.
  • An engine starting circuit that can be used for a triangle or a star, and it should not require additional modification.

Thus, the process of creating a circular saw on your own is considered quite complex, but if you know what basic elements the equipment consists of, and also choose high-quality elements that connect reliably and safely with each other, then the work will be done correctly on your own.

If you read this article on the blog, be careful when experimenting and working with sharp instruments. Write reviews and share tips on working with saws and circular saws that you have made yourself.

A circular saw is specialized equipment that is used for cutting wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary sawing installation can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common metalworking tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will cost.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large volumes of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is presented in the diagram below. It also indicates main installation dimensions, which are recommended to be used as a starting point for self-assembly.

In the drawing, the numbers correspond to the following structural elements of homemade equipment:

  • 1 – frame (bed);
  • 2 – side panel;
  • 3 – starting device;
  • 4 – mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 – its stops;
  • 5, 6 and 7 – two halves of the sawing table with a base;
  • 8 – electric motor;
  • 9 – platform for installing the motor;
  • 10 – studs (M10);
  • 11 – saw;
  • 12 – shaft;
  • 14 and 16 – driven and driven pulleys, respectively;
  • 15 – belt;
  • 17 – switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a visible place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large in size.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to secure a drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot of the appropriate size in the table for it. This will allow you to expand the functionality of the created installation: plan lumber on it, chamfer and select a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations using homemade equipment, it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with several guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, it should also be possible to regulate the speed of the electric motor and quickly replace disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and parts

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, you should select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to start from old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for making a bed with a table

To make a bed (frame) you can use channel or metal corners(sizes from 25×25 mm to 50×50 mm are sufficient). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. The legs of the machine will use water pipes or profile metal pipes.

Advice! Frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because bolted connections unwind under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also necessary to weld spacers at the corners to impart rigidity to the structure. To make it easier to move the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a table for a circular saw: resistance to mechanical influences (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties characterize sheets of the following materials:

  • become;
  • duralumin;
  • silumin;
  • PCB;
  • moisture-resistant plywood;
  • organic glass.

If you use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be covered with zinc-coated sheet metal. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration influences.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or becomes distorted due to deflection, the disk may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, cutting logs into boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as a guide bar for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures even sawing of lumber. Moreover, its use makes it possible to obtain workpieces of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed using clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Selection of engine and starting equipment

The easiest way to use a drive for the considered version of a homemade circular machine is single phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

  • if it is 350 mm, then for normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
  • for a disk with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, you can make a drive mechanism from an engine from an automatic washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For disks with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be secured firmly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibration by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly oscillate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors into the electrical circuit. It should also be taken into account that the engine power will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk jams. It is better to install the protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine on the convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires do not short-circuit to the frame of a homemade circular electric saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest thing is to cover the installation with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Gear, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. The use of gears is not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear drive, due to its rigidity, can cause failure of the entire drive unit.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, you can change the speed of the disk and install different types on the machine. This is true if there is no motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing It is better to entrust it to a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Moreover, when you plan to make a circular electric saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a plane. But the simplest option is to buy a ready-made factory-produced part. A sample of it is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular saw It’s easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is one of balancing. An imbalance of the saw during operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If you have a circular saw for wood, you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the disk corresponds to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber: for example, for 100 mm logs you will need to use a saw measuring approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement not only leads to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of a woodworking machine according to the drawing given earlier is carried out in the following sequence:

  • a rectangular frame is made from the corners;
  • four legs are welded to it at the corners of the required height;
  • at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a binding from the corners;
  • a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
  • fix the driven pulley on one side and the disk on the other;
  • a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
  • on the lower frame they make a platform from corners or sheet metal for the electric motor;
  • the drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
  • put the belt on the pulleys;
  • On and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted on the side panel of the unit;
  • using wires of a suitable cross-section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
  • supply power to the machine from a stationary network.

The final stage is checking the functionality of the assembled equipment. First, you should make sure that all moving parts rotate freely: to do this, simply twist the drive pulley by hand. After which you can start the unit in test mode. If strong vibration is detected, you will need to check the reliability of the bolted connections and fixation of the disk.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or a solid one. In the latter case, you will need to cut a rectangular slot in it for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. This video also demonstrates the design of the lifting mechanism for these parts.

Important! To prevent the possibility of the saw jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be located at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To regulate belt tension, the electric motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is by creating larger slots than required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes should be carried out in the direction of belt tension.

If you completely follow the drawing, you will need to make a more complex belt tensioning mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor using studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, there is no need to install a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter). But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also additionally recommended to install a residual current device or differential circuit breaker in the panel. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to breakdown of wire insulation. It is better to select components for the electrical part of a circular saw so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment components will help you easily replace failed parts.

Today you can quite often find homemade circular saws. A circular saw can be made with your own hands if the craftsman has at least minimal skills in working with metal. To make the structure you will also need some equipment. All work must be done carefully.

Figure 1. Schematic of a stationary circular saw.

It is advisable to make such a device yourself if any of the following materials are available: pieces of steel angle, rectangular profile pipe, engine or grinder. If you don’t have a motor, you can purchase one at the construction market.

Manual circular design

You can easily make a manual circular saw with your own hands if you have a grinder available. You will need to make the following simple devices: a sliding stop and an axial handle.

Required parts:

  1. Metal corner.
  2. Washers.
  3. Bolts.
  4. Nuts.
  5. A strip of metal.
  6. Bulgarian.
  7. Metal pipe or rod.

Making the stop and preparing the necessary holes

The sliding stop is made of several pieces of small metal angle, which are located on both sides of the working element. It is worth noting that the working element is a disk with teeth, which is used instead of an abrasive wheel. The gap on each side should be approximately 3-4 mm. The horizontal edges of the corners will need to be rounded at the bottom so that they do not cling to the workpiece being cut. The corners will need to be connected with cross braces at the front and back. To do this, it is best to use bolts and nuts; a gap can be made by using a pack of washers.

You will need to put a metal strip clamp on the tool body. The screw tie of the clamp should be located at the bottom of the structure. You will need to rigidly fasten a double-folded strip of tin or galvanized steel with a hole for the rear stop bolt for sliding. The stop must be secured to the rear of the structure. The clamp with the rear thrust post can form a single structure, but the thickness of the metal strip in this case should be approximately 1-1.5 mm. By moving the washers that provide clearance, you can achieve equal gaps between the working element and the side parts of the stop.

In the tool gearbox housing you will need to drill 2-4 threaded holes for small fasteners. The first step is to disassemble the gearbox and identify places where it is possible to drill. The holes are intended to make it possible to fix a homemade axial handle. If a standard side handle of an angle grinder is used, then making an even cut will be quite difficult even for a master with extensive experience.

Making a handle and adjusting rod

The axial handle is made of a pipe or rod in the form of a horn, which is directed upward. In this case, a transverse bracket of small width can be used. The ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox do not need to be spilled. In these parts you will need to drill holes for fasteners. If the fastening ends spill, the handle will bend from the effort during operation.

If the handle has the shape of a horn, then its far part must be splashed in a horizontal plane and a hole drilled in it for an axis of 4-5 mm with a margin. If the handle is a bracket, then in the holes located in the gearbox you will need to install a piece of rod or tube sticking forward. The end of the element needs to be splashed and a hole drilled in it. There should be a small distance between the rod and the bracket - approximately 100 mm.

Next, you will need to take a piece of 4-5 mm steel rod, which will be used as an adjustment rod. One part of it needs to be bent in the form of a loop, slightly splashed and a hole drilled for the front thrust bolt. By placing washers on the front of the stop, you need to achieve a uniform gap width along the entire length of the structure. If you use a 6 mm rod, you will need to prepare several washers of small thickness.

The back of the rod needs to be threaded. The element will fit into the hole on the handle. You need to first screw one nut onto it, and upon completion of assembly - the second. You will need to loosen and tighten the nuts one by one to be able to adjust the cutting depth. At this stage, the manual circular saw will be ready for use.

Tabletop small circular

A manual circular saw can easily be converted into a small tabletop design.

To do this, you need to make a U-shaped frame from a 15-20 mm pipe or rod and attach a lever. The lower part of the bed must be bent along the cutting direction until horizontal, and then secured to the table with self-tapping screws. To make the structure stable, you can additionally install slopes.

You will need to put a rotating lever made of a T-shaped pipe on the horizontal cross member.

The transverse part of the element will need to be cut into two parts. After the structure is installed, the elements will need to be secured with clamps. To the end of the vertical part, you need to tighten the hand saw that was made with a clamp.

A similar design can also be used as a cutting device, for which you will need to install a standard cutting wheel in the grinder. However, in this case, the thickness of the cut will not exceed 70-80 mm, everything will depend on the diameter of the working element. To be able to process thick lumber, you will need a full-fledged circular saw.

Full-fledged stationary circular saw

You can make circulars of this type only if you have a design diagram. The difference between a stationary and tabletop circular saw is the height of the bed. A design diagram of this type is shown in Fig. 1.

The first element to be made is the table. It is covered with tin or galvanized sheet. The wood will rub against the wood or plastic, causing a small dent to appear. In this case, it will not be possible to make a high-quality cut. The transverse connections of the table are made from a metal corner of 70-80 mm.

The working element should not protrude above the base of the table by more than 1/3 of the diameter - otherwise the saw will be dangerous. Therefore, if you need to cut a 100 mm beam, then the diameter of the disc should be 350 mm or more. To drive such a disk, a motor with a power of 1 kW or more is required.

The first thing you need to do is compare the power of the purchased engine with your personal needs. For workpieces 150 mm or more, making a circular saw yourself is quite difficult.

A high-quality adjustable stop can be made from a piece of angle 70-80 mm, its length should be 350-400 mm longer than the length of the table. One of the shelves will need to be cut on both sides so that the remainder is equal to the length of the table. The back parts need to be curved down. In the lower shelves you will need to drill holes for the threads of fasteners. After this, you will need to put the stop on the table and secure it in the required position with bolts. The stop is set according to a template that is placed between it and the tool disk.

You will need to use ball bearings, which are self-installed. Trunnions with bearings must have covers that can protect them from sawdust.

It is recommended to use a V-belt drive. The engine will fit from an old washing machine. Capacitors can be paper or oil-paper. Other elements will not be able to withstand the reactive power that circulates in the chain.

Making a circular saw yourself is quite simple if you know the technology and have all the necessary elements available.

Do-it-yourself homemade circular saw, design drawings, diagrams and detailed description.

Description of the design.

In the considered embodiment, the following adjustment units are provided:

1. The belt is tensioned by four M8 bolts, which press the moving part of the mechanism against the stationary one. An electric motor is attached to the moving part of the mechanism. It has four M8 threaded holes cut into it. In the fixed part there are grooves made to suit the size of the adjusting bolts. The movable frame slides along the bolts to the right or left. The adjustment is made in the following sequence: loosen the bolts; We tighten the belt with our hands, pressing on the electric motor: we tighten the bolts.

2. The cutting depth is adjusted by rotating the entire saw blade assembly relative to the axis. The axis is located in the opposite part of the machine, relative to the fixation nuts. Fixation of the desired position is carried out with two M12 fixation nuts for a size 19 wrench.

3. The width of the cut or a guide plane along the saw blade, made of a duralumin corner measuring 30x70 (mm). Pins with tension are inserted into a small part of the angle, with the help of which the angle easily moves along the through grooves made in the machine plate. In the middle of the pins, at the bottom of the plate, there is an M8 bolt. In the desired position, the corner is fixed on the table with wing nuts.

View of the adjustment unit from the bottom of the table

View of the adjustment unit from above the table

Circular saw characteristics:

Power, W – 750
Power supply, V – 220
Number of revolutions per minute, rpm – 1500
Saw blade diameter, mm – 180
Saw blade seat diameter, mm – 20
Maximum cutting depth, mm – 50
Maximum cutting width from the guide plane, mm – 150

Dimensions:

Width, mm – 450
Length, mm – 700
Height, mm – 411

Design features:

Homemade circular saw with double-row ball bearings, which significantly increases the service life of the equipment
the frame is made of a square pipe, it can be permanently attached to the floor or workbench
table six millimeters thick, made of metal plate
Inside the frame there is a protective cover against wood chips, made of sheet metal with a thickness of 0.8 ... 1.0 mm