In what century did wooden looms appear? Antique wooden loom Who created the loom

The introduction of the latest technologies in industrial sectors primarily affects equipment. Examples from various industries demonstrate the benefits of technical development, which manifests itself in improved product quality. At the same time, there are areas where traditional methods of organizing technological processes are still relevant. The loom in particular retains to this day the concept of a close relationship between manual labor and machine function. Of course, in some areas of production one can note the emergence of electronic systems with automation. However, based on the combined advantages of the two approaches, the advantage still remains with manual and mechanical units.

General information about weaving machines

Despite the conservative approach to textile production, participants in this segment use many variations of this machine. Moreover, all models serve the same purpose - tissue formation. As a result of the mutual interweaving of several threads with a certain configuration of arrangement relative to each other, a textile product with a given structure is created. In general, the concept is simple, so its origins go quite deep into history. For example, the first finds indicating the production of fabrics by weaving date back about 6 thousand years. If we talk about machines close to modern technical means, the first weaving machines appeared in 1785. It was at this time that a mechanical unit of this type was patented. At the same time, it cannot be said that the device was something unprecedented and revolutionary. By this point, manual mechanisms had been quite common in Europe for almost a hundred years.

Main characteristics

A special place in the technical parameters is occupied by the dimensions of the machines. Traditional hand-held machines have the most compact dimensions, which can easily be placed even in a small apartment. They can be compared to a washing machine, but it is important to take into account the need to organize the workplace. One of the most important characteristics is the width of the fabric, which on average varies from 50 to 100 cm. Of course, a weaving machine for industrial needs can have a two-meter width of the fabric, which allows the production of carpets. You should also consider the size of the installation in terms of placement on the floor. As a rule, models from the junior and middle lines occupy areas no larger than 100x100 cm. In this case, the installation height can reach 1.5 m.

Machine device

The classic design of a manual loom primarily provides for the presence of two transverse bars for the commercial roller and beam. As a rule, these elements are included in the basic package. The machine cannot do without a thread holder. During the warping process, it is this part where the ends of the threads are fixed. A parting hook is used to thread loops of yarn into the corresponding teeth. This detail is also called a threading into the reed. In addition, the design of the weaving loom provides for the presence of embedded strips. With the help of these elements, the user can keep the base even and smooth. The planks are usually laid on the base as they are wound. When the formation of the base for the machine begins, the function of a heald holder is required - this is performed by a special clamp included in the kit. As an option, kits with wire pins are also purchased, which secure the healds after they are installed for work.

Varieties

Manufacturers offer manual, mechanical, semi-mechanical, and automated devices. Models are also divided into hydraulic and pneumatic machines depending on the principle of operation. From the point of view of structural design, round and flat machines can be distinguished. By the way, the first option is used exclusively for the production of fabrics with special qualities.

For example, it could be hose material. For domestic use, small narrow models are often used, and for large-scale production, industrial weaving looms are suitable, which have enough power to work with large volumes of textile material. There is also a division of machines according to their ability to form different fabrics. Thus, eccentric models are used to create simple weaves, and finely patterned fabrics can be made on a carriage machine.

Classification according to the method of laying the thread

On this basis, pneumatic and hydraulic devices are distinguished. True, there is a third type - rapier machines. As for pneumatic models, they lay the thread in the shed using an air flow. The main nozzle, built into the hip structure, is designed for this purpose. It is important to note that this part is fixed to the main tank that distributes compressed air. Hydraulic and rapier types of weaving looms are also common, which use water and special feeding elements in the laying process. In the first case, the thread is carried by a flying water drop. In general, the design of such machines corresponds to their pneumatic counterparts, only instead of air a jet of water is used. Rapier mechanisms introduce the thread into the shed using two metal rods, one of which performs the feeding function, and the second - the receiving one.

Maintenance nuances

The list of activities performed during the maintenance process depends on the specific design. For example, the maintenance of hand-made models requires careful inspection of the structure, which is most often made of wood. Correctly setting up components, strips and clamps is a major part of the craftsman's job. More complex designs of mechanical and automatic units require additional measures. For example, it may be necessary to fill the loom with water in the case of hydraulic devices. Pneumatic equipment also requires separate maintenance of devices that provide air supply. This also requires checking the connecting hoses and nozzles that distribute the flows.

Weaving machine manufacturers

Leading positions are occupied by European companies, including Belgian, Italian and German manufacturers. In particular, pneumatic models are offered on the market by Dornier, Picanol and Promatech. Also, high-quality machines are produced by Japanese companies, including Tsudakoma and Toyota. Hydraulic models are also released under the same brands. It is noteworthy that there are no Russian enterprises represented in this segment. But the domestic loom can be found in the category of rapier models. The Tekstilmash and STB factories offer their products in this niche.

Conclusion

Despite the expansion of production capacity, the best textile products are produced by small enterprises that focus on manual labor. This approach has many advantages that provide quality products. For example, a weaving machine with a manual operating principle allows timely correction of fabric formation, as well as making the necessary adjustments to the settings of the feeding elements. In addition, there are many operations that automated machines cannot perform. In such cases, again, the hands of experienced weavers do best.

Weaving is an ancient craft, the history of which begins with the period of the primitive communal system and accompanies humanity at all stages of development. A necessary prerequisite for weaving is the availability of raw materials. At the weaving stage, these were strips of animal skin, grass, reeds, vines, young shoots of bushes and trees. The first types of woven clothing and shoes, bedding, baskets and nets were the first weaving products. It is believed that weaving preceded spinning, since it existed in the form of weaving even before man discovered the spinning ability of the fibers of certain plants, among which were wild nettles, “cultivated” flax and hemp. The developed small-scale cattle breeding provided various types of wool and down.

Of course, none of the types of fibrous materials could survive for a long time. The oldest fabric in the world is linen fabric, found in 1961 during excavations of an ancient settlement near the Turkish village of Catal Huyuk and made around 6500 BC. It is interesting that until recently this fabric was considered to be wool, and only a careful microscopic examination of more than 200 samples of old woolen fabrics from Central Asia and Nubia showed that the fabric found in Turkey was linen.

During excavations of settlements of the lake inhabitants of Switzerland, a large amount of fabrics made from bast fibers and wool was discovered. This served as further evidence that weaving was known to people of the Stone Age (Paleolithic). The settlements were opened in the winter of 1853-1854. That winter turned out to be so cold and dry that the level of the alpine lakes in Switzerland dropped sharply. As a result, local residents saw the ruins of pile settlements, covered with centuries-old silt. During excavations of settlements, a number of cultural layers were discovered, the lowest of which are dated to the Stone Age. Coarse, but quite usable fabrics made from bast fibers, bast and wool were found. Some fabrics were decorated with stylized human figures painted with natural colors.

In the 70s of the twentieth century, with the development of underwater archeology, research into settlements in the vast Alpine region on the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland began again. The settlements dated from 5000 to 2900 BC. e. Many remains of fabrics were found, including twill weave, balls of thread, reeds of wooden looms, wooden spindles for spinning wool and flax, and various needles. All finds indicate that the inhabitants of the settlements were engaged in weaving themselves.
In Ancient Egypt, a horizontal frame was preferred. A person working near such a frame would certainly have to stand. From the words “stand, stand” the words “stan”, “machine” come from. It is curious that weaving was considered the highest of the craft arts in Ancient Greece. Even noble ladies practiced it. In the famous work “The Iliad” by Homer, for example, it is mentioned that Helen, the wife of the king of Sparta Menelaus, because of whom, according to legend, the Trojan War broke out, received as a gift a golden spindle whorl - a weight for a spindle, which gave it greater rotational inertia.

The first fabrics were very simple in structure

. As a rule, they were produced using plain weave. However, quite early they began to produce ornamented fabrics, using religious symbols and simplified figures of people and animals as decorative elements. The ornament was applied to raw fabrics by hand. Later they began to decorate fabrics with embroidery. In the historical period of the last centuries of Christianity, the type of trellis weaving on looms that appeared in Europe in the Middle Ages gained popularity. This type of weaving made carpets popular, which were woven both with pile and smooth. Tapestry weaving in Western Europe developed from the 11th century until the 17th century, when in France in 1601 the workshop of the Gobelle brothers arose, who produced smooth woven material with rep weave of threads, creating an original pattern of the play of threads on the material. The workshop was noticed by the French king himself, who bought it to work for the royal court and wealthy nobles, thereby providing the workshop with a constant income. The workshop became famous. And such woven material has since been called a tapestry, similar to a mat.
A loom is a mechanism used to produce various textile fabrics from threads, an auxiliary or main tool for the weaver. There are a huge number of types and models of machines: manual, mechanical and automatic, shuttle and shuttleless, multi-shank and single-shank, flat and round. Weaving looms are also distinguished by the types of fabric produced - wool and silk, cotton, iron, glass and others.
The loom consists of a hem, a shuttle and a hip, a beam and a roller. Two types of threads are used in weaving - warp thread and weft thread. The warp thread is wound on a beam, from which it unwinds during the work process, going around the roller that performs the guiding function, and passing through the lamellas (holes) and through the eyes of the heddles, moving upward for the shed. The weft thread passes into the shed. This is how the fabric appears on the loom. This is the operating principle of a loom.

At the end of the 19th - mid-20th centuries. weaving in Moldavia was a widespread women's occupation with deep traditions. The materials for weaving were hemp and wool; flax was used much less. From the middle of the 19th century. purchased cotton thread came into use. The process of preparing fiber for spinning was lengthy. Yarn processing and weaving were carried out using homemade tools. The specifically Moldavian method of spinning on the go was using a spinning wheel with an elongated shaft, strengthened by the spinner behind her belt. The peasant family independently produced various fabrics necessary for sewing clothes, used for household needs and decorating the interiors of the home. Moldavian women wove many towels on a horizontal weaving mill ("stand"), using various types of techniques (branch, choice, mortgage). Some towels were mandatory attributes of wedding, maternity and funeral ceremonies, others were used for household needs, and others were used to decorate the interior of the home. Ornaments on towels for ritual or decorative purposes were a rhythmic repetition of one geometric or floral motif.

Carpet weaving
The centuries-old traditions of Moldavian carpet weaving led to the emergence of a distinctive type of carpet, made on a vertical weaving mill using the kilim technique. As a rule, women were engaged in carpet weaving, and men participated only in preparatory work. The ability to weave carpets was highly valued among the people. Girls began to learn this craft at the age of 10-11. Each bride's dowry, among many other necessary household items, necessarily included carpets. They testified to the wealth in the girl’s family and the hard work of the future housewife. The process of making a carpet was extremely labor-intensive: carpets and runners from two to three kilograms of wool were woven in two to three weeks, and a large carpet from 10-15 kilograms of wool was made in three to four months, working together.
Decor of Moldovan carpets
The Moldavian lint-free carpet is characterized by clarity of composition and shaped balance, which does not imply strict symmetry. The skillful use of natural dyes by Moldovan carpet makers determined the color richness of the carpet. The light background of carpet products, characteristic of the late 18th - first half of the 19th centuries, was then replaced by a range of black, brown, green and red-pink tones. The pattern was based on geometric and plant motifs; zoomorphic and anthropomorphic images were less common in carpet compositions. The types of Moldavian carpets, their ornamentation and terminology differed depending on the place of use.

Moldavian carpet weaving reached its peak in the 18th - early 19th centuries. One of the characteristic features of Moldavian carpets was the variety of ornamental motifs. The most common are floral patterns depicting trees, flowers, bouquets, fruits, as well as geometric ones - rhombuses, squares, triangles. Less common are images of human figures, animals and birds. In the distant past, ornamental motifs had a certain symbolic character. One of the most common motifs was the “tree of life,” representing the strength and power of nature, its eternal development and movement. The image of a female figure was considered a symbol of fertility. Over the years, the original meaning of many common ornamental compositions has been lost.

The size and purpose of the carpet, the nature of the motifs, the color scheme, the central pattern and border determined its ornamental composition. One of the most common techniques was the alternation of floral or geometric motifs along the entire length of the carpet. On many carpets, the central pattern consisted of a repetition of one or two motifs, having a vertical or horizontal direction. In areas of the carpet not filled with main patterns, small motifs-signs could be located (year of manufacture, initials of the owner or carpet maker, household items, etc.). An important role in the decorative design of the carpet was played by the border, which differed from the central pattern in both color and pattern. Typically, Moldavian carpets had a two-, three-, or four-sided border. Since ancient times, ornamental motifs and carpet compositions have had names. In the 19th century the most common names were “Rainbow”, “Loaf”, “Nut Leaf”, “Vase”, “Bouquet”, “Spider”, “Cockerels”. When creating a carpet, Moldavian craftswomen always solved a seemingly already known composition or ornamental motif in a new way. Therefore, each of their products is unique and inimitable.
Traditional dyes
Another important feature of Moldovan carpets is their amazing colors. The traditional Moldavian carpet is characterized by calm and warm tones and color harmony. Previously, solutions prepared from flowers, plant roots, tree bark, and leaves were used to dye wool. Mackerel, dandelion flowers, oak bark, walnut and onion peels were often used to obtain dyes. Carpet makers knew how to determine the time of harvesting plants, knew the best combinations of plant materials, and had excellent knowledge of wool dyeing methods. Natural dyes gave the old folk carpet extraordinary expressiveness. The most common colors were brown, green, yellow, pink, and blue. If any motif was repeated in a carpet composition, it was done in a different color each time, which gave it undoubted originality. With the appearance in the second half of the 19th century. aniline dyes expanded the color spectrum of Moldavian carpets, but the artistic value decreased somewhat, since pastel, calm tones gave way to bright, sometimes devoid of sense of proportion, chemical dyes.
Moldavian carpet in the 20th century

During the twentieth century. carpet weaving continued to develop. The leading ornamental compositions in rural areas continued to be “Bouquet” and “Wreath”, bordered by garlands of flowers in combination with geometric motifs. The colors of modern carpets have become brighter and more saturated. Some subjects were borrowed from factory fabric patterns. The creativity of Moldovan carpet weavers had a certain influence on the carpet weaving of other nations, as well as samples of factory carpets, both domestic and imported. Despite the improvement of a number of technological processes on vertical weaving mills, the main work of rural carpet weavers, as before, was done manually. Carpet weaving is most widespread in the Moldovan villages of Baraboi, Plop, Criscautsi, Livedeni, Badichany, Petreni, Tabora and others. Also in Moldova there are Ukrainian villages, such as Moshana, Maramonovka, etc., where carpet weaving is also widespread.

Around 1550 BC in Egypt, weavers noticed that everything could be improved and the spinning process could be made easier. A way was invented to separate the threads - remez. A remez is a wooden rod with even warp threads tied to it, and odd threads hanging freely. The work thereby became twice as fast, but still remained very labor-intensive.

The search for easier fabric production continued, and around 1000 BC. The Ato machine was invented, where the hedges already separated the even and odd warp threads. The work went tens of times faster. At this stage, it was no longer weaving, but weaving; it became possible to obtain a variety of weaves of threads. Further, more and more changes were made to the weaving loom, for example, the movement of the hedge was controlled by pedals, and the weaver’s hands remained free, but fundamental changes in weaving technique began in the 18th century.

In 1580, Anton Moller improved the weaving machine; now it was possible to produce several pieces of material. In 1678, the French inventor de Gennes created a new machine, but it did not gain much popularity.

And in 1733, the Englishman John Kay created the first mechanical shuttle for a hand-held machine. Now there was no need to manually throw the shuttle, and now it was possible to obtain wide strips of material; the machine was already operated by one person.

In 1785, Edmund Cartwright improved the foot-operated machine. In 1791, Cartwright's machine was improved by Gorton. The inventor introduced a device for suspending the shuttle in the shed. In 1796, Robert Miller of Glasgow created a device for advancing material using a ratchet wheel. Until the end of the 19th century, this invention remained in the weaving loom. And Miller’s method of laying a shuttle worked for more than 60 years.

It must be said that Cartwright’s loom was initially very imperfect and did not pose a threat to hand weaving.

In 1803, Thomas Johnson of Stockport created the first sizing machine, which completely freed craftsmen from the operation of sizing on a machine. At the same time, John Todd introduced a cutting roller into the design of the machine, which simplified the process of lifting threads. And in the same year, William Horrocks received a patent for a mechanical loom. Horrocks left the wooden frame of the old handloom untouched.

In 1806, Peter Marland introduced slow motion of the baton when laying a shuttle. In 1879, Werner von Siemens developed the electric loom. And only in 1890, after that, Northrop created automatic shuttle charging and a real breakthrough in factory weaving came. In 1896, the same inventor brought the first automatic machine to the market. Then a loom without a shuttle appeared, which greatly increased labor productivity. Now machines continue to be improved in the direction of computer technology and automatic control. But everything most important for the development of weaving was done by the humanitarian and inventor Cartwright.

Fabrics and weaving have been known to mankind since time immemorial, shrouded in antiquity. The history of the fabric is the result of enormous human labor on improving the production process: from hand weaving to advanced technologies of the global textile industry. The inventions of ancient peoples laid the foundation for a weaving tradition that is widely used in our time.

The history of fabric: how it all began

Humanity has needed to protect its body from cold and heat since the dawn of its existence. The first materials for primitive clothing were animal skins, shoots and leaves of plants, which the ancient inhabitants wove by hand. Historians know that already in the period of the 8th-3rd millennia BC, humanity knew the practical properties of flax and cotton.

In Ancient Greece and Rome grown, from which fiber was extracted and the first coarse fabrics were woven.
In Ancient India for the first time they began to produce, which were generously decorated with bright printed designs.
Silk fabrics are historical property of China.
And the first wool fibers and, accordingly, fabrics made from them arose during the time of Ancient Babylon, in the 4th millennium BC.

History of weaving: time machine

The history of weaving originates in Asia and Ancient Egypt, where the invention of the loom took place. This apparatus consisted of a frame with several slats on which the warp threads were stretched. Weft threads were woven into them by hand. Operating principles of the first machine have survived into today's weaving industry. However, the design itself has gone through many changes.

Much later, in The horizontal loom was invented in the 11th century AD, on which the warp threads were stretched horizontally. The structure of the unit was more complex. The main parts were attached to the large wooden frame of the machine:

3 rollers;
2 foot pedals;
vertical frames of the reed “comb”;
shuttle with thread.

Our ancestors began to mechanize the machine in the 16th-18th centuries, and the greatest success was crowned with invention in 1733 of the so-called airplane machine by J. Kay. Half a century later, the Briton E. Cartwright invented a mechanical loom, the design of which was further modified and improved. By the end of the 19th century there were mechanical machines with automatic replacement of shuttles.

And already in the 20th century, shuttleless machines similar to our modern models were invented.

Types of looms

As has already become clear from the previous section, looms are shuttle and shuttleless, more modern.

Types of shuttleless weaving looms are distributed depending on the weaving principle of the weft thread.

BUROVA EKATERINA, LEBEDEV LYUBOV,

9th grade students of the Vasilyevskaya Secondary School.

Scientific director Tolmacheva G. M.,

Teacher at the Vasilyevskaya Secondary School.

EXHIBIT OF THE SCHOOL MUSEUM OF LOCAL LORD –

LOOM

There are fewer and fewer people left in rural areas who could talk about the folk crafts of their ancestors, much less show how they did it and teach us. Therefore, our generation must have time to communicate with people who remember what our grandparents did, since tomorrow it will be too late, these people simply will not exist.

The main sources were used:

Exhibit of the school museum - a loom

Memoirs of Ivan Alexandrovich Bashilin

Internet resources and encyclopedia information were used to describe the history of weaving.

12 years ago, a new exhibit appeared in our school local history museum - a loom, which was donated by the Bashilin family. For a long time it lay in the attic, and when Ivan Aleksandrovich Bashilin learned that activists of the school museum were collecting household items, he donated the tools to the museum. It was in disassembled condition. Petunina Tamara Mikhailovna, chairman of the veterans of the Vasilyevsky rural settlement, helped assemble the loom. We didn’t have an exhibit, so we decided to find out the history of the loom.

1. THE APPEARANCE OF THE WEAVING LOOM

Weaving arose in the Neolithic era and spread widely during the primitive communal system. This was the original occupation of the female population. Every peasant family had a weaving mill on which women produced homespun cloth. Clothes, sheets, towels, tablecloths and other household items were made from it. The loom is one of the inventions that appeared among different peoples independently of each other. Asia can be considered the ancestor of weaving; it was there that the first loom was discovered. The raw materials for the threads were animal wool and fibers of various plants, as well as natural silk. Weaving was known not only to the peoples of Europe and Asia. In America, the ancient Incas already knew it. The art of weaving they invented is preserved today among the Indians from South America.

Weaving looms began to be used throughout Asia. Weavers quickly learned to decorate their products with different patterns, which were woven from multi-colored threads. The yarn was often dyed at home in different colors and then the patterned fabrics turned out to be especially elegant. At the same time, people began to paint fabrics with the juice of various plants. This is how weaving turned into an art.

The weaving loom is one of the most ancient tools of human labor. A handloom with a vertical warp appeared approximately 5-6 thousand years BC. The first loom was vertical. This is a simple frame on which the warp threads are stretched. The weaver held a large shuttle with thread in his hands and weaved the warp. It was difficult to work on such a loom, since the threads had to be sequentially sorted by hand, the threads often broke, and the fabric could only be made thick.

In the 11th century, the horizontal loom was invented. The warp threads are tensioned horizontally (hence the name of the loom).

Its main part is a large wooden frame on which the machine parts are mounted: three rollers; two foot pedals; vertical frames of the reed “comb”; shuttle with normal thread. This type of loom, with minor modifications, has survived to this day and is still preserved in some houses. In many peasant houses of the Iverovsky volost of the Staritsky district of the Tver province, as in other districts, there was such a loom.

Then the mechanical loom was invented. Nowadays, modern weaving looms run on electricity and have become more complex and varied. But hand weaving is still alive and is a traditional folk craft. Friedrich Engels considered the invention of the loom to be one of the most important achievements of man at the first stage of his development. During the feudal period, the design of the loom was improved, and devices were created to prepare yarn for weaving. The first attempts to mechanize the weaving process date back to the 16th-18th centuries. Among them, the most important was the invention by James Kay in 1733 of the so-called airplane shuttle.

At the end of the 18th century in Great Britain, Cartwright invented a mechanical loom, the design of which was subsequently made various improvements. Russian inventors also made a significant contribution to improving the design of the loom: D.S. Lepyoshkin, who in 1844 patented a mechanical self-stop when the weft thread breaks; S. Petrov, who in 1853 proposed the most advanced system of combat mechanism for laying the shuttle, etc. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, machines with automatic change of shuttles were created. But hand weaving is still alive and is a traditional folk craft.

2. FROM MEMORIES

youngest son Bashilin Ivan Alexandrovich(died in October 2010) we learned that the Bashilin family consisted of father - Bashilin Alexander Yakovlevich, born in 1902, mother - Bashilina (Zhuravleva in her maiden name) Maria Andreevna, born in 1903, five sons and one daughter. All natives of the village of Vasilyevskoye, Staritsky district, Tver province. Currently, no one is left alive.

Alexander Yakovlevich worked as chairman of the village council, Maria Andreevna in field farming. During the Great Patriotic War, my father fought in the Rzhev direction, was wounded and was sent to a hospital in the city of Podolsk. He died in 1943 when he was directly hit by a shell while distributing food to soldiers. Alexander Yakovlevich was buried near Smolensk. Maria Andreevna walked to the city of Podolsk to see her father. Maria Andreevna died in 1981. She worked on a collective farm all her life.

Ivan Aleksandrovich doesn’t remember how the loom got into the house; he says that many of his fellow villagers had such looms. On long winter evenings, my mother wove rugs and towels on it. She wove rugs only for herself and her relatives.

Maria Andreevna did not do any work for sale. The machine, donated to the school museum, is in good condition and can be used for work. The dimensions of the loom are as follows: length – 103 cm, width – 77 cm, height – 134 cm.

The trouble is that there are no craftswomen who could teach us this skill.

The excursion for younger schoolchildren is conducted by Lyubov Lebedeva.

So, having studied the available documents and related materials, we learned biographical information about the Bashilin family, who donated a loom to the school museum. Unfortunately, now there is no way to find out who made this machine and under what circumstances it appeared in the house.

However, there are several clues that can lead us further. So, for example, to find the neighbors and fellow villagers who are still alive, since many have left, some to Moscow, and some to St. Petersburg. Perhaps someone will respond to our request?

We think that our work is not finished. And we will share the information that we managed to collect with classmates, children from other classes, parents and school guests.

Weaving loom: in ancient times and today.

Loom- a mechanism for producing various textile fabrics from threads, an auxiliary or main tool for the weaver. There are a huge number of types and models of machines: manual, mechanical and automatic, shuttle and shuttleless, multi-shank and single-shank, flat and round. Weaving looms are also distinguished by the types of fabric produced - wool and silk, cotton, iron, glass and others.

My friend looked around in our Moscow room.
-Where is the loom? You wrote to me about him...
“Here it is,” I pointed to a wooden structure in the corner between the window and the closet.

- So you wove these rugs on it??

In the 60s of the twentieth century, many villages wove rugs on looms, crosses, which were inherited from grandmothers and great-grandmothers. Someone's husband/uncle/grandfather is a jack of all trades and has a bright mind, he made a machine. Or they ordered from the masters. Where did the craftsmen themselves learn to make weaving machines?

In 1911, the book "Improved Handloom" was published. Author I.V. Levinsky. And in 1924 - “How to build a loom and weave simple fabrics.” Author - engineer Dobrovolsky V.A.

and a page from it

The style is “clerical”, which K. Chukovskoy angrily wrote about, but the drawings and drawings are clear.
Weaving loom (krosna). 1930

Weaving is an ancient traditional craft of the inhabitants of the village of Vodly and the surrounding bygone villages.
Author - N.V. Ulyanova. School ethnographic museum of the village. Vodla Pudozh district of Karelia. From the memories of old-timers.

When this is woven with little cells. They dyed, and they dyed with alder from the tree, they tore up the bark, they dyed flaxseeds. They would paint this, and then... oh, and then when they got the paint, the rollers looked like this. And so they coated the rollers with paint and rolled them, making this, motley makers. They make skirts like this, but you can’t buy them like that in a store. They kept linen skirts for the holidays. Sundresses, and linen ones, there were ropes before this place, here there were ropes. The lace was tied. I remember there was a blue moth, made into a cage, but ours didn’t have moths. It was woven from my grandmother and mother, and the gypsies stole it. And our grandmother and mother had towels, but now we don’t have them, well, these are sewn and embroidered. And this kind of material was all woven by hand, the Rednians of the School, they made it on thicker bags, and with me during the war they wove these skirts. Schools and blankets were made, sewn and wrapped with these blankets. They already regretted the rug. When I went to work as a young man in 1945, there was no pay. You will put some kind of blunder on your head.

They made the rug. And there, for example, in my youth, you’ll wear it out, you’ll tear it out, and throw it in a ball: the shirt is torn, or the pants are torn, they’ll cut it out, and this one. Back then, they kept very little, fewer dresses, so they would make them for the villages. They buried the blood like this, and those who were richer were thrown on the floor.

Egozinka cited her aunt’s memories of her great-grandmother Maria.

"My grandmother Masha wove these rugs for me(for Aunt Egozinka ) in dowry. I lived with her when I was 16-17 years old. And having observed, apparently, that the gentlemen were already knocking on the threshold, she got down to business. I remember how the loom stood by the window (my grandmother called it KROSNA), how pleasant it was to touch its smooth, polished wooden surfaces. I remember the word - nitchenka. And at the bottom there were pedals... I wove the shanks on some kind of hand-held machine - these are beautiful sticks with patterns. Grandmother selected colors, calling them pistachio, azure, fawn... I remember the silence in the room, my grandmother’s quiet singing. She deftly throws the shuttle and slams it with the frame (BERDO). The walkers are knocking on the wall, the old cat Muska is purring..."

nmelnikova :
- My grandmother in Sokolovskoye had two of them in good condition. Previously, linen was woven on them, and coarser and rather thin linen was woven into shirts, sweaters, skirts, towels, and tablecloths. It will be enough for us to collect seven sweats, you will spend half a day fiddling around. My grandmother kept the mills in the barn, and she weaved at home, so when assembled they took up most of the hut.

Vladimir :
- And I remembered how my grandmother forced us to help “warp” - this when they made a new thing - the basis for starting to weave rugs. We scurried about on the wall for about 8 meters, then we filmed it in a braid, and then wound it on a shaft. Before this, they threaded it (feed it with a needle) into the strings, and when it was all aligned through the strings, they wound it onto the shaft. Well, then they threaded it through the reed and let’s weave. They didn’t trust me to weave, but I know how to warp and feed into nets and reeds; my grandmother couldn’t see well anymore.

How the main threads scurried around, shows olsha5, who is engaged in weaving, weaves fabrics with a bran pattern.

and braid it so it doesn’t get tangled

eyange:
- Do you know why these rugs were woven? In those days you couldn’t wash the floors - they were unpainted. It took my grandmother and I half a day to wash the floors. First they rubbed it with broken bricks, then washed it off several times. The pine floor turned white, as if after shavings. So they covered it with rugs so it wouldn’t get dirty.

makha0na:
- Once upon a time it was like that. But my grandmother lived in an apartment with a painted floor. And the rugs were there, because that’s how it’s supposed to be :) The bare floor is not comme il faut, like :)

Tatiana Lesnaya
- I filmed this in Suzdal. The weaver said that now almost no one knows how to thread such a loom. They were helped by their 96-year-old grandmother. Refueled for 2 days. Nowadays this is only in museums or in villages in attics or sheds (Fasting nature.

Skvortsova A.F. Agafya's grandmother's doormats.
I remember my post-war childhood. Throughout the fall and part of the winter, mother and grandmother spun flax. Closer to spring, a loom was installed in the hut. In her free time from working on the collective farm, her mother wove canvas. Severe necessity forced me to do this. There was no factory production, and there was no money to purchase it either. Towels, tablecloths, underwear and bed linen were made from homespun fabric. And its quality depended on the peasant woman’s ability to weave finely and tightly. In the spring, the canvases were bleached on a snow crust.

Life in the village gradually improved, and the need to weave canvas disappeared. But rugs - bright, colorful, elegant - were still required. Moreover, the townspeople, fed up with carpets and rugs, began to look for old craftswomen and buy rugs from them. But the trouble is, there are fewer and fewer such craftswomen left in our villages and provincial towns. This is a labor-intensive and troublesome task.

How Krosna was founded, shows dinaza

13 meters of warp, that is, the main threads, white in the photo. It’s not an easy task, it’s boring, it’s the least favorite thing, you need an assistant. We spent the entire day, or even two days, threading the machine with the main threads.

seredina77(in the first photo)

So far we have found this machine - we visited quite a few villages, saw people, talked to them, got some interesting ideas about their life and morals... For this, it was even worth going on a trip and dragging the machine 600 miles. So Dinka found an 80-year-old granny - a weaver. I haven’t seen her work myself, but Dinka said that it was very interesting and of high quality. This granny weaves in the winter, and puts the loom away in the summer (after Easter). This is how it was traditionally - in the summer you have to farm the land and grow crops. Dinka kept dreaming of coming to this granny in winter to learn her skills. And the granny walked all the way to the neighboring village, persuading the girls there to learn from her and adopt their skills. Grandmothers die, and with them their crafts are forgotten.

Voldemar T. in the video told how he learned to weave rugs. Filmed in the mid-90s.

Weaver Lidiya Nikolaevna shows the operation of a weaving mill that is more than a hundred years old. Museum of the History of the City of Myshkin, Yaroslavl Region.

M. V. Vasilievich - artist. A reed used to punch the weft into the fabric for compaction.

I. V. Belkovsky - artist. "Winter Sun" 1994. Crocheted round rugs. (I tried washing a crocheted rug in an automatic washing machine - it washed well. Note: Ryazanochka77)

Magazine "Around the World". August 1979. Weaving rugs in Paloma.

And in winter, when there is a lot of free time, women in Paloma weave rugs. Everyone knows how to weave; they learned it from their mothers when they were girls. Previously, fine linen yarn was woven into sundresses, shirts, towels, tablecloths and sheets, in rows for bags. They also wove paths. “We worked all winter, “sloughed,” the women recall. And in the summer, a lot of work was devoted to flax; it was necessary to sow it, grease it, soak it, knead it, comb it, and only then spin it. All this, of course, was done by hand. Now, of course, no one sows their own flax and they no longer weave linen; the need for this hard work disappeared, but the ability to weave and the habit of this activity remained. Winter days seem empty without him. So they weave rugs. Thus, the former craft, which was part of women’s duties, acquired the character of a creative activity “for the soul” and became the joy of a free hour.

They are no longer woven from linen yarn, but from rags, dyed in different colors, cut into thin strips and twisted. Simple spool threads are used as the base. Not only the material from which the rugs are woven has changed, their sizes and patterns have changed. Rugs are now woven wide, up to 80 centimeters wide, and old rugs are remade especially for this purpose. Most likely, they do this because rugs are no longer just tracks that cover the floor; their purpose has become more diverse - they cover sofas, hang them as carpets over beds. But the traditional pattern in the form of multi-colored transverse stripes is not entirely suitable for this. Some craftswomen make a new design - checkerboard, from squares (not without the influence, of course, of factory-made blankets and bedspreads).

In one day, an experienced craftswoman, working without stopping, can weave up to three meters.

Magazine “Around the World. February 1989. Belarusian SSR

Towels, made by Neglub weavers on wooden frames, began to circulate throughout the world. What kind of international exhibitions have they been to? They were in New York and Montreal, Tokyo, Paris and Brussels and returned from everywhere with gold medals. Even the American Metropolitan Museum could not resist this beauty: it acquired several Neglyub towels for its collection.

Neglyubka (Belarus. Neglyubka) is a village, the center of the Neglyubsky village council of the Vetkovsky district of the Gomel region of Belarus.

When I was at school, in the girls' labor room there was a loom like this.

It was fragile, something was broken, so the teacher showed it in class as a visual aid. They didn’t try to weave on it.

There was also such a machine made of wood. Here I will tell you about the “device” of the machine.

The loom consists of a hem, a shuttle and a hip, a beam and a roller. Two types of threads are used in weaving - warp thread and weft thread. The warp thread is wound on a beam, from which it unwinds during the work process, going around the roller that performs the guiding function, and passing through the lamellas (holes) and through the eyes of the heddles, moving upward for the shed. The weft thread passes into the shed. This is how the fabric appears on the loom. This is the operating principle of a loom.

There are manual, automatic and power looms. Handmade ones were invented early in history; they required the hard work of a weaver. With the development of science and technology, weaving machines also changed. Now one person can operate a dozen automatic looms.

Resourceful needlewomen wove this way.

It is hardly possible to weave rugs on it. They wove scarves and bags.

There were such machines for weaving.

On one forum, a visitor wanted to buy old and “scary” rugs, which surprised good people.

- So I was going to lay them in the boundaries. My beds are narrow, but the boundaries are wide, and grass and ants grow on them - I’m tired of it! I’m already struggling with her in every way. But it won’t grow under rugs. She's not that interested. Incl. let them be at least as old as they are. Technology of "narrow ridges" according to Mitlider.

Nowadays a variety of table looms and weaving frames are produced; it is impossible to write about them all - the post will be longer.

Modern loom Glimakra Julia (Julia). Made in Sweden. In Russia, some needlewomen have this machine. The width of the fabric is up to 68 cm. It can be used to weave rugs.

Japanese loom

Modern tabletop machine Emilia (Emilia) Made in Sweden. Available in two versions: with a filling width of 50 cm and with a filling width of 35 cm. Fixed on the table.

I bought this machine in a Moscow store. The width of the finished canvas is up to 35 cm.

Weaved from strips from old clothes. The width of one canvas is at most 30 cm. I crocheted the canvases together. They are not very dense and are not suitable as rugs, because on this machine it is difficult to punch the weft to the canvas. It can be folded and placed on a bench as a seat, or it can be spread out on the grass, on a hammock. Gave it to a friend for her dacha. (Algerian carpet, hand-woven, made of woolen threads on a cotton base - brought when my husband was in school, I can’t stand it).

The weaving of rugs is not dying. This is a rare handicraft because the loom is not easy to acquire. Takes up a lot of space. Instead of weaving, thick crocheted rugs are made from strips of old clothes. Or they braid a braid and sew it into a circle.

And in 1733, the Englishman John Kay created the first mechanical shuttle for a hand loom. Now there was no need to manually throw the shuttle, and now it was possible to obtain wide strips of material; the machine was already operated by one person.

It must be said that Cartwright’s loom was initially very imperfect and did not pose a threat to hand weaving.

General information about weaving machines

Despite the conservative approach to textile production, participants in this segment use many variations of this machine. Moreover, all models serve the same purpose - tissue formation. As a result of the mutual interweaving of several threads with a certain configuration of arrangement relative to each other, a textile product with a given structure is created. In general, the concept is simple, so its origins go quite deep into history. For example, the first finds indicating the production of fabrics by weaving date back about 6 thousand years. If we talk about machines close to modern technical means, then the first weaving machines appeared in 1785. It was at this time that a mechanical unit of this type was patented. At the same time, it cannot be said that the device was something unprecedented and revolutionary. By this point, manual mechanisms had been quite common in Europe for almost a hundred years.