Choice

Do-it-yourself electric extension cord. Making an extension cord with your own hands

20.08.2023

When making an extension cord, it is better to adhere to generally accepted standards. For powerful equipment, the fork is non-removable. Let's take it one by one and introduce a couple of fresh ideas about making reliable connections with your own hands: how to choose a cable, where to borrow a socket. As a result, we hope that readers will understand how to make an extension cord themselves.

Selecting an extension cable

The first question on the agenda. Need a cable. Think about why we decide to make a power extension cord:

  1. Firstly, it is impossible to buy an extension cord with the required parameters. Most often this is the length of the cable.
  2. Secondly, a special extension cord is convenient for measuring the power of household appliances (220 volts, 380 volts) using current clamps. It is required that the cores of the area allocated for measurements run separately. In this case, it becomes possible to measure the level of the magnetic field of the conductor (the two together create interpolation, making the process impossible).
  3. Sometimes an extension cord is used with a fixed outlet. Interestingly, no documents regulate the minimum height. It is allowed to install sockets on the baseboard.

When choosing an extension cable, the PUE sets out the facts and regulations.

Combining the neutral protective and working conductors is impossible

It is not allowed for portable consumers to combine neutral protective and working conductors. It is not allowed to ground the grounding terminal to zero. Although there is no prohibition in stationary sockets. We believe it is related to protection.

Sockets intended for switching on equipment used in outdoor conditions are protected by a differential circuit breaker. Please note that we do not know in advance the scope of application of the extension cord. At the same time, combining the protective and neutral conductors violates the operating principle. As a result, a person working on the street can be killed before the overcurrent protection is triggered.

Cable selection

For the reason given above, it is reasonable to equip the extension cord with a cable with three cores. Otherwise, the operating conditions of most of the equipment are clearly violated. What about an electric tool? Deprived of a grounding terminal, regulations have been issued according to which it is prohibited to do so. According to the mentioned standards, the electric tool is equipped with reinforced insulation (second safety class II); work safely in damp areas, in the snow, provided that the extension cord is well insulated. At a minimum, curtains are provided on the sockets; a cheap socket will not work, you will have to break out the element (it gets stuck).

Sockets and plugs

You probably still use USSR equipment to this day. Old plugs do not always fit European sockets. We don’t want to disfigure the butt connector, so let’s take advantage of a loophole: it is permissible to use regular sockets with grounding on the base. The result is a universal device that can be used in any conditions. Assemble the extension cord with the necessary elements.

Extension cable size

For household electrical receivers, according to the PUE, the cross-section is at least 0.75 square millimeters of copper. Pay attention to the photo. A section of the H05VV-F cable of a typical extension cord with markings is visible. 3G means the presence of three wires, the copper cross-section is written next to it - 1 square millimeter. The extension cord meets the requirements of the PUE. For industrial copper receivers 1.5 square millimeters.

In practice, we select the section with a large margin, focusing on needs. The characteristics of the H05VV-F cable are standardized by GOST IEC 60227-5. From the link to GOST 22483 we will find out the correspondence between AWG gauges and copper cross-section, which will allow you to order on Aliexpress. It is easy to notice that there are no tables on maximum currents; similar information is provided in the old version of the PUE (sixth edition). We don’t think that the change in legislation has harmed the laws of nature; we feel free to recommend the numbers to readers. From Table 1.3.4 we find out that for cables with PVC insulation and a copper core with a cross-section of 0.75 square millimeters, the permissible current is 15 A. In terms of power, 230 x 15 = 3.45 kW.

It is not proposed to connect the welding machine to an extension cord. Therefore, it is better not to use the minimum cross-section of copper; take it with a reserve. The extension cord is equipped with several sockets. It becomes possible to work simultaneously with two or more devices; it is difficult to take into account the actual power consumption. At maximum current, welding machines, for example, exhibit work cycle parameters characterized by the duration of rest and activity.

Among other things, regarding the choice of core cross-section, please note: in three-phase circuits it is allowed to use a wire where the neutral (working, protective) conductor is thinner than the others. The PUE allows the use of cables until the legislation is changed with an explicit prohibition to do so. In other cases, the thickness of the neutral conductor is no thinner than the phase conductors.

Core flexibility class

Please note: the cores are of a high class of flexibility. The extension cord is not considered stationary equipment; presumably, it will have to be used in a variety of conditions. The cores should not break due to endless changes in position.

Achieved by design features. First of all, by cutting the cross-section with many small wires. For more details, you can read GOST 22483. Why? PUE says: connection of conductors of low flexibility class (single-wire) is allowed under the screw of only stationary installations. The rule indirectly says: in the case of an extension cord, use a different cable.

The higher the flexibility class, the better. When ordering PV, PVS wire, we pay attention to the factor. The core class falls within the range 2 – 4. Clearly, it is better to take the latter. There is less chance of the core breaking due to frequent bending (the class specifies the minimum radius).

Additional requirements

Additional requirements apply to lighting installation devices and plug sockets. Concerns protective contacts. The protective contact of an socket is a pin that forms a triangle with the sockets, preventing the device from being turned on in the wrong way. Electrically this part is reliably grounded.

As a result, we know the location of the phase. Therefore, we will ensure a break using a switch located on the wire. Provides protection against phase leakage onto the cartridge when necessary. Visible on European sockets is a grounding contact.

Please note: the plug of most high-power household appliances is equipped with a deep hole for a protective contact. Although technology does not apply to lighting. The manufacturer realizes the versatility of equipment butt connectors.

Restrictions on the use of electrical extension cords

Regulatory documents provide a narrow range of restrictions on the use of extension cords. Without special protective measures, the operation of motors with a power exceeding 1 kW (without specifying the type: asynchronous, commutator) is not allowed. We will circumvent the condition only in one case: we need to make sure that turning off/on the contact is possible only when the equipment is turned off. Apparently, an arc is supposed to occur here when the circuit suddenly breaks or switches.

Partially stripped cable for measuring current with clamps

A typical extension cord is not suitable for current clamp measurements. An example is given in the photo. The insulation of the supply wire is broken; it is permissible to measure with a current clamp. The photo cannot serve as an example of how to make an extension cord of the ideal type yourself. In our case, a two-core wire was used, no more was required, the socket was taken of the old type, where the diameter of the sockets includes the plugs of devices manufactured according to the European standard. Helps avoid connection difficulties.

Socket and extension cord phases

I would like to add here a not so obvious fact, which is definitely not difficult to observe in practice: the extension cord plug is in place as it should be. By holding the wire, you can find that the phase is always on the side that is in the socket. Look at the photo, it is demonstrated: the plug is located in the most obvious way, with the wire facing down. Phase in the position shown on the left. Helps electricians and craftsmen stop guessing. Phase left.

A symmetrical fork lacks a clearly defined direction. The recess for the protective contact is located at the top. As for prefabricated forks, where there is none, you need to be guided by the inscriptions (see photo) so that they are readable and not placed upside down. We emphasize that in this case everything depends on how we connect the wiring inside the extension cord. It is necessary to ensure that with the specified location of the plug, the phase coincides with the socket in the extension cord (if taken in the manner shown in the photo). At first glance, it seems like unnecessary complications, but in a work situation it will be useful for various purposes.

Symmetrical fork inscription

Please note: for powerful appliances the plug is non-removable. In search of a cable of such length that meets the given condition, we will use a deceptive maneuver:

  • Carefully seal the wire according to the instructions.
  • We take the filler coupling compound and pour it inside. After hardening, the cooling conditions will deteriorate slightly, but a reliable frame will be formed to maintain its shape. In other words, the fork becomes non-separable after such manipulations.

Types of extension cords

We don’t see the difficulty of making a headphone extension cable with our own hands. Today there are plenty of dismountable USB connectors on the market; we can get a four-core copper cord anywhere in the world (using Aliexpress). The power buses run sideways: you can see that they are pushed forward to avoid loss of information when the contacts are opened. Data passes through two wires inside. It is better to take the cable without connections, in one piece, the attenuation of a weak signal will be minimal. We think an excellent option is to get a shielded cable: it will certainly increase the communication range.

Twisted pair is suitable for USB. The frequencies will be slightly different, but at short distances it will not be noticeable. You can make a modem extension if you have crimping pliers. The photos shown are taken from DNS, suitable for 8 and 6-position connectors (suitable for telephone operators).

Finally, no hassles with audio jack connectors. You've probably noticed: sometimes mono comes out on the front panel of the system unit... Bite your elbows? Just look inside, make the correct layout of the board, installing the necessary jumpers, stretch a cable with the required number of cores to the motherboard. The whole secret: some manufacturers are just too lazy to do it, they push cheap stuff. We believe that now every reader has understood how to make a USB extension cable themselves, the purpose of the review has been achieved.

We say goodbye, we believe that the knowledge gained will really be useful in practice when you next need to make an extension cord with your own hands.

An electrical extension cord is a device that serves to supply power to electrical consumers when their cord is not long enough to reach a fixed outlet. Most often, the extension cord design includes several sockets, so it allows you to connect several consumers at the same time.

Varieties

Electrical extension cords are classified.

By method of use:
  • Portable (carrying).
  • Stationary.
By cable connection method:
  • With a collapsible body.
  • Non-separable.
For protection against electric shock:
  • With normal protection.
  • With enhanced protection.
For protection from external factors:
  • Regular.
  • With splash protection.
  • Jet-proof.
For cable temperature protection:
  • No protection.
  • C, limiting current or temperature.
According to the configuration:
  • Household.
  • Professional.
Design features

The classic design of an electrical extension cord consists of an electrical cord with a plug, a housing with several sockets. The body is most often made of fireproof plastic. The length of the extension cord is usually 1.8-10 meters.

Additionally, extension cords may include power supplies, indicators, circuit breakers, thermal switches, devices for winding the cord, and fastenings for convenient fixation during use.

Each electrical extension cord, depending on the type, has its own device features.

Portable extension cords

These models of electrical extension cords can be easily moved to different places. The weight of such carriers does not exceed 15 kg and can be used to connect power to various household and industrial equipment.

Fixed electrical extension cord

This design of the electrical extension cord is adapted for permanent fastening in one place during its use. The weight of a stationary model is usually more than 15 kg. The attachment of the extension cord does not allow it to be moved to other places.

With collapsible body

Extension cords may have a collapsible body, fastened with screws or self-tapping screws. The collapsible wire reel provides the ability to replace the wire with a plug or socket. The advantage of the collapsible model is accessibility for repair and maintenance.

Non-separable

There are non-separable cable reels. They are made in one complete unit with a flexible cable and socket, the plug is pressed onto the cable. The entire design is made in such a way that if the cable is disconnected from the reel, the extension cord becomes unsuitable for use.

In addition to reel extensions, regular carriers can also be non-separable. Their advantage is good protection from external influences, high-quality insulation, inaccessibility for penetration into the device by unqualified people, as well as children, which increases their safety.

With normal and enhanced protection

The extension cord design for normal operating conditions must provide protection from contact with live elements. Its parts that provide protection against electric shock and have mechanical strength must be fastened with screws or other reliable means. During operation, these parts should not lose their strength.

The design of the grounding contact must guarantee the safety of the device during its use.

An electrical extension cord with enhanced protection, in contrast to a model with conventional protection, has a double layer of cable insulation, additional protective elements of the cable reel housing, etc.

Household extension cords

They can have a cord length of up to 10 meters, ranging from 0.5-1.5 mm 2. This value is indicated on the cord. Cores with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 are capable of withstanding a power load of up to 3.5 kilowatts.

Based on power, household models are divided into three types:
  1. Low-power up to 1 kilowatt, for low-power household devices.
  2. Average power 1-2.2 kilowatts, for more powerful household devices: washing machine, heater, etc.
  3. Powerful, more than 2.5 kilowatts, for powerful equipment, and even welding machines.
Professional extension cords

Typically used to supply power to power tools on construction sites. Their difference from household models is a cable reel with several sockets. The cable is wound onto this reel. The coil-type electric extension cord has a total power of up to 3.7 kilowatts, is equipped with reinforced wire up to 60 meters long and a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bcores up to 2.5 mm 2. These extension cords are manufactured with protection against splashes and moisture.

A professional, quality-made electrical extension cord usually has protection against overpowering and unwinding of the cable, which consists of three double-insulated cores and a plug with a molded-type grounding contact.

To make the right choice of extension cord when visiting an electrical goods store, it is advisable to use some recommendations from experts. The main parameters of extension cords that you should pay attention to when choosing:

  • Number of sockets.
  • Presence of a grounding contact.
  • Cord length.
  • Availability of a circuit breaker.
  • Insulation quality.
  • Additional elements.
Number of sockets

Depending on the model, the number of sockets can be from 1 to 7 pieces. A large number of sockets makes it possible to simultaneously connect several devices. It is important that their total power does not exceed the permissible load of the extension cord.

If there is no suitable extension cord, then it is quite possible to make it yourself, using the necessary components and the length of the cord. All materials can be purchased at any electrical store.

Availability of grounding

The grounding contact protects a person from electric shock in the event of a malfunction of the device connected to the extension cord, and reduces the impact of electrical noise on connected household devices on the network. This contributes to a longer service life for consumers.

It is advisable to use an electrical extension cord with a grounding contact in case of constant use of a computer, refrigerator and other devices. For a temporary connection for a few minutes, an extension cord without grounding is suitable.

Cord length

This characteristic is individual for a specific case. You may need a short cord of up to 2 meters, or you may need a very long cable. If you want to purchase an extension cord of more than 30 meters, then a design with a reel for winding the cable will be more convenient.

An important point is to connect the consumer with a power approximately equal to the power of the extension cord, especially if it is long and wound on a reel or coiled. When connected, a significant electric field induction occurs in the coil, which heats the cable. Therefore, when connecting a powerful load, it is advisable to completely unwind the cable. If the consumer's power is less than half the permissible load of the extension cord, then it is permissible not to unwind the cable.

The ambient temperature should not be higher than the permissible temperature specified in the extension cord's passport. High-quality models with good insulation can function even in frosts down to -40 degrees. Some extension cord housings have built-in fuses to protect against overload.

This parameter shows how much power the device can be connected to an extension cord. Each model has a permissible load value indicated on its body. Before connecting the consumer, you must make sure that its power does not exceed the permissible power of the extension cord.

If you need an extension cord, then carrying up to 1.3 watts is enough. A washing machine will require a portable model with higher power, up to 2.2 kilowatts, since its design includes a powerful water heater.

Circuit breaker

Such auxiliary protection is most necessary in such electrical networks where voltage surges occur frequently. The machine will not allow overload if several powerful load consumers are connected to one extension cord at once.

Cable insulation quality

The extension cord can be either single-layer or double-layer. Cables with one layer of insulation are suitable for use in areas with low temperatures and normal humidity. Two layers of cable insulation are required when using an extension cord in places with high humidity, temperature, as well as in frost, in the ground and in other extreme conditions.

Additional items

Often an electrical extension cord is equipped with an indicator that allows you to control whether the device is turned on or not. High-quality Sputnik extension cords are considered the most convenient for everyday use.

Rules for safe use
  • It is not allowed to independently improve or change the device, which can lead to fire, electrical injury and damage to the wiring insulation.
  • Extension cords are used to temporarily connect devices. Therefore, after use, it is necessary to disconnect them from the power supply.
  • Portable power supply devices should be used carefully, avoiding damage to the cord, plug or socket.
  • Faulty cable insulation requires immediate replacement.
  • It is prohibited to tie wires into knots, twist them, or cover them with building material.
  • Do not lay extension cords through door thresholds or under carpet.
  • It is prohibited to connect consumers with a total power exceeding the permissible load on the extension cord.

The owner of a house or summer cottage may need an extension cord for various purposes, but you should not rush to buy this attribute at the nearest electrical store, because you can make the extension cord you need yourself.

How to choose components for an extension cord

For the manufacture of an external carrier for a dacha, the best cable is the KG brand - this is a flexible power cable with copper conductors, rubber insulation and sheath. This cable is excellent for outdoor use, resistant to sunlight, fungal mold, and also resistant to crushing and abrasion during operation.

For example, from a three-core cable KG with a cross-section of 2.5 mm², you can make a reliable flexible extension cord for a garden plot. An extension cord of 30 meters will allow you to use wired electrical appliances with a power of up to 6 kW outside the home. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the exact cross-section of the cable - for 1 kW of power, 0.75 mm² of cable cross-section is required, and if the length is more than 20 m, the calculation result is multiplied by 1.5.

For domestic use, a shorter extension cord of 5 meters is suitable, for which PVS 3x1 or 3x1.5 wire is well suited. A round wire with copper conductors and a 3x15 mm² PVC sheath perfectly withstands a current load of 16A and is designed for network voltages from 220V to 380V.

In addition, you will need an outlet, such as the popular "socket" and a plug. For a Euro socket you will need a Euro plug - standard options will not work.

How to make a 10 meter extension cord for your home

First, you need to purchase a dismountable plug and pass the selected cable or wire through it, after which you need to strip the ends of the copper wires and connect them to the plug using screws.

Next, you need to connect the outlet - the extension cord circuit involves connecting a ground wire, which, as a rule, has yellow-green insulation. Having disassembled the socket, you need to connect the wires in strict sequence. The ground contact is always in the center.

The extension cord is ready, and if you have correctly calculated the cross-section of the wire and the socket, it will serve you for many years.

Most often, the desire to make an electrical extension cord with your own hands arises when there is an urgent need (for example, during repairs) or when you are disappointed in finished products from manufacturers. And in fact, it is not uncommon for a washing machine or other electrical appliance to be connected to a portable outlet, when the socket begins to melt and turn yellow. This is due to the fact that manufacturers skimp on cable cross-section and build quality, which entails an inability to withstand network loads. To prevent this from happening, you can make a powerful electrical extension cord yourself, spending literally half an hour and a little money. Next, readers of "" will be provided with simple instructions and useful tips from our specialists!

So, first, let’s figure out what you can use to make a good electrical extension cord at home:


As for tools, you may need the following:

  • multimeter (allows you to check the extension cord after assembly);
  • curved and straight screwdriver;
  • pliers or special;
  • sharp knife;
  • insulating tape.

Using an example, let's look at how to make an electrical extension cord yourself from a three-wire cable with sockets for 4 sockets. So, the assembly instructions look like this:


That's all the instructions for creating. We hope that now you know how to make an electrical extension cord with your own hands at home. If you suddenly have any questions, ask our specialists in the ““ category!

I would like to additionally note that it is possible to make a more reliable version of the electrical extension cord with a switch in the form of a button. In this case, you can turn off or turn on the power to the sockets. If you decide to assemble a long carrier (for example, 50 meters), then it is better to wind it on a special reel so that the wires do not constantly get tangled. In addition, a coil is more convenient to store than a coil of wires.

Extension cords are quite often used both in offices and in houses and apartments. The stores now offer a huge assortment of a wide variety of extension cords from a variety of manufacturers.

Sometimes it happens that it is difficult to choose an extension cord of the required length, which is designed for a certain power.

In addition, there is always a risk of stumbling upon low-quality products. The best solution would be to make an extension cord yourself.

Initially, it is necessary to clearly determine how and for what the extension cord will be used, devices with what power will be included in it, and also to provide a power reserve for the future in advance. Perhaps in the future it will be necessary to include devices with greater power, and it is in this case that the previously laid reserve will help you protect yourself from possible troubles and you will not need to buy a new extension cord.

There are articles that describe in detail why an extension cord can burn out, what will happen if you apply a powerful load through it that it is not able to withstand.

How to make an extension cord with your own hands?

The extension cord consists of three main components:

  • socket block;
  • electrical plug;
  • cable (usually PVA cable is used).

The plug and socket block are usually manufactured for a maximum current of 16A (3.5kW) or 10A (2.2kW). In accordance with this, if you plan to connect devices whose power does not exceed 2 kW, then a block of sockets and a 10A plug will be enough for you, and the wire cross-section should not be less than 1 mm2.

If the power of the connected devices exceeds 2 kW, then you need to opt for a socket block and a 16A plug, and the wire cross-section should not be less than 1.5 mm2.

In this example, an extension cord will be made into which devices with a power of no more than 2 kW will be connected, so a PVS-2x1.0 wire will be used, as well as a block of sockets and a 10A plug.

Most apartments still use two-wire wiring, so a two-wire extension cord that does not have a ground connection will be considered.

You need to disassemble the socket block by unscrewing four screws. Inside you will find a contact group and two screw terminals to which the wires will be connected.

You also need to disassemble the plug by unscrewing one screw.

Now you need to cut the required length of the wire, and then remove the insulation from both ends of the wire to the required length.

Stranded wire is very convenient to use, since it is flexible and soft, but when connecting it to screw terminals, its wires can be crushed, which can cause contact to be broken, as well as heating and sparking. Therefore, it is necessary to either solder the wire or use NShVI crimping lugs.

You can crimp the wires of the socket block with lugs if you have press pliers.

Now you need to insert the tip into the screw clamp and secure it there securely with a screw.

It is necessary to put the top cover of the plug on the wire, strip the wires and tighten them with a ring under the screw that will clamp them.

If you do not have press pliers, then you need to solder the stripped wires using solder, both from the side of the socket block and from the plug side.

In the socket block, the wires must be inserted into the clamp and carefully tightened with screws. The wire itself must be attached to the body of the socket block using a clamping strip and two screws so that the wires do not pull out of the screw clamps during operation. In the same way, you need to secure the wires to the plug using screws and washers. After this, you can assemble the socket block and plug.

Now all that remains is to check with a multimeter that the assembly is correct. To do this, you need to switch the multimeter switch to buzzer or resistance measurement mode. One probe must be placed in one socket of the socket block, and with the second probe touch some contact of the plug. If the parting is connected to one wire, then the buzzer will beep or the multimeter will show zero resistance, and if it is connected to different wires, then the buzzer should not beep, and the multimeter will show a break. Then you need to rearrange the probe in the socket block and continue checking. Once everything is checked, the extension cord can be used.