Owners of private houses often ask themselves the question of what kind of external wall insulation is the most effective. What is the best insulation to choose so that load-bearing wall structures do not conduct cold in winter and repel heat in hot summer. Many modern thermal insulation materials not only prevent heat loss during the cold season, but also protect the room in summer from the penetration of thermal radiation. The issue of thermal insulation of your home must be approached with all seriousness. How comfortable and cozy the house will be for its residents depends on how high-quality you make the thermal insulation system for your home.
External wall insulation
Thermal insulation materials, types and characteristics
Previously, organic insulation in the form of sawdust, peat, etc. was used to insulate the building structure. A significant disadvantage of these materials was flammability, high moisture absorption, and susceptibility to rot and mold.
At the moment, organic insulation materials are practically not used for thermal insulation of houses. Now the construction market offers a wide range of synthetic thermal insulation materials with the best technical characteristics.
Expanded polystyrene, its advantages and disadvantages
Most people, when deciding how to insulate a house outside, give preference to expanded polystyrene. The popularity of this insulation is due to its low cost and excellent performance.
It is especially worth noting the following advantages of polystyrene foam:
- lower thermal conductivity in comparison with mineral wool insulation (this allows the thickness of the insulation layer to be made smaller);
- affordable cost (expanded polystyrene is cheaper than mineral wool);
- ease of installation (this material is easy to process).
The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene include: lower vapor permeability, in comparison with mineral wool insulation, and higher flammability.
Expanded polystyrene, despite some of its disadvantages, is widely used for insulating facades. The use of this material for thermal insulation of a building is three to four times cheaper than the use of other insulation, in particular mineral wool.
Important! Due to low vapor permeability, polystyrene foam is not recommended for insulation of wooden houses. Its only area of application is the insulation of stone facades.
Expanded polystyrene is very effective for insulating brick houses. Expanded polystyrene thermal insulation with a thickness of only 80 mm makes it possible to reduce fuel consumption four times during the cold season.
Pno-foil insulating material
A rather interesting modern insulation is polyfoil insulation. It consists of a layer of polyethylene foam, which is sandwiched on both sides with aluminum foil. The features of this material are its low weight and low thermal conductivity (the thermal conductivity of this insulation is 1.5 times less than that of basalt insulation).
The advantages of this material include ease of installation; the insulation is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the absolute vapor and gas impermeability.
Insulation: pressed cork
This rather exotic insulation material, like pressed cork, is made from the bark of the cork oak tree growing in the Mediterranean. This insulation is available in rolls and slabs, has a very attractive appearance, and is an environmentally friendly material. Pressed cork is used for internal wall insulation; this material, due to its excellent appearance, also serves as a decorative finish. Cork slabs can also be used for external insulation of facades.
Rock-based mineral wool
A distinctive feature of mineral wool fibers is its ability to withstand temperatures of more than 1000° without melting. Thanks to this, mineral wool prevents the spread of fire and protects the structures of houses built from flammable materials (for example, wooden houses) from fire. Insulation materials with high water absorption rates lose their thermal insulation properties, since water entering the thermal insulation material fills the air pores and increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Mineral wool practically does not absorb moisture, so it remains dry and retains its low thermal conductivity properties, even if moisture gets on its surface.
The many advantages of mineral wool also include high resistance to mechanical stress.
Fiberglass thermal insulation materials
To insulate the outside of a house, fiberglass materials can be used. The main components used to make fiberglass are cullet, sand, dolomite, limestone, soda, etibor, etc. The raw material for fiberglass is melted in a melting furnace at 1400° and fed into the front furnace, where it undergoes the fiberization stage. In centrifuges, molten glass breaks down into fibers 6 microns thick. After this, the resulting products are impregnated with polymer resin and fed to a conveyor, where they are formed into mats. The remaining water is evaporated from the mats and high-quality insulation is obtained.
Fiberglass materials have the best qualities for thermal insulation of building facades, which include:
- Fire safety.
- Economical during transportation.
- Easy to install.
- Low thermal conductivity coefficient (from 0.035 to 0.044 W/mK), due to the ability of fiberglass to firmly retain air, and, as a result, excellent thermal insulation properties. Fiberglass insulation can reliably protect against cold in winter and heat in summer.
- Moisture resistant. Due to its non-hygroscopicity (glass wool does not absorb water), the thermal insulation properties do not deteriorate when the material gets wet.
- Environmental friendliness. Fiberglass insulation does not emit harmful substances and is safe for health; mold and rot do not form on it.
Glass wool is an effective insulation material
What is better for thermal insulation of external walls: mineral wool or expanded polystyrene
Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are the most popular insulation materials for thermal insulation of external walls. Installation of mineral wool slabs is similar to the technology of laying polystyrene foam; in addition, these two insulation materials have similar technical characteristics, so when deciding how best to insulate a house outside, these two insulation materials are first compared.
When they want to cheaply insulate walls outside, in most cases they choose polystyrene boards. This material is not only cheaper than mineral wool, but its installation does not require special skills or complex tools; almost every owner can install thermal insulation using foam plastic boards with his own hands. But when installing cheap foam plastic thermal insulation of walls outside, one should not discount the fact that this material has little mechanical strength. In addition, rats and mice love to chew polystyrene foam.
To insulate facades, manufacturers produce special types of vapor-permeable foam with a compacted outer layer. But the cost of such material is no less than the cost of mineral wool.
Insulation such as extruded polystyrene foam is not suitable for insulating walls from the outside, as it has zero vapor permeability. Using it to insulate facades leads to dampening of the material from which the walls are built. Moisture causes mold and mildew to appear on the surface of walls. On the market you can buy vapor-permeable perforated extruded polystyrene foam intended for external insulation of facades. But their price is no less than the cost of mineral wool insulation.
When using expanded polystyrene for external wall insulation, it is better to purchase material with antipyrene compounds; these are special substances that prevent the material from burning. Polystyrene foam with fire retardant acquires fire-fighting properties.
Mineral wool is not flammable, resists mechanical stress well and has sufficient vapor permeability, therefore, for external insulation of walls it is more preferable, but with the correct design of the thermal insulation system, foam plastic boards will also cope well with their functions.
A very real situation - an effective heating system is installed and running in a private house, but it is not possible to achieve comfortable living conditions if the building itself does not have good thermal insulation. The consumption of any energy carriers in such a situation jumps to completely unimaginable limits, but the generated heat is completely uselessly spent on “warming up the street.”
All main elements and structures of the building must be insulated. But against the general background, external walls lead in terms of heat loss, and it is necessary to think about their reliable thermal insulation first of all. Insulation materials for the external walls of a house are now available for sale in a very wide range, and you need to be able to navigate this variety, since not all materials are equally good for certain conditions.
The main methods of insulating the external walls of a house
The main task of wall insulation is to bring the total value of their resistance to heat transfer to the calculated value, which is determined for a given area. We will definitely dwell on the calculation method below, after considering the physical and operational characteristics of the main types of insulation. First, you should consider existing technologies for thermal insulation of external walls.
- Most often they resort to external insulation of already erected walls of a building. This approach is able to solve to the maximum extent all the main problems of thermal insulation and saving walls from freezing and the accompanying negative phenomena of damage, dampness, and erosion of building materials .
There are many methods for external insulation, but in private construction they most often resort to two technologies.
— The first is plastering the walls on top of the thermal insulation layer.
1 – external wall of the building.
2 – assembly adhesive onto which the thermal insulating material is attached tightly, without gaps (item 3). Reliable fixation is also ensured by special dowels - “fungi” (item 4).
5 – base plaster layer with fiberglass mesh reinforcement inside (item 6).
7 – layer. Facade paint can also be used.
— The second is the cladding of externally insulated walls with decorative materials (siding, panels, “ block house", etc.) according to the ventilated facade system.
1 – main wall of the house.
2 - frame (sheathing). It can be made from wooden beams or from galvanized metal profiles.
3 – slabs (blocks, mats) of thermal insulation material laid between the sheathing guides.
4 – waterproofing diffuse steam-permeable a membrane that simultaneously performs the role of wind protection.
5 – a structural element of the frame (in this case, a counter-lattice), creating a ventilated air gap with a thickness of about 30 ÷ 60 mm.
6 – external decorative cladding of the facade.
Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Thus, a plastered insulated surface (often called a “thermal coat”) is quite difficult to do independently if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. This process is quite “dirty” and labor-intensive, but in terms of the total costs of materials, such insulation is usually cheaper.
There is also an “integrated approach” to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facade cladding panels, the design of which already provides for a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, plastering work is not expected - after installation, all that remains is to fill the seams between the tiles.
Installation of a ventilated facade practically does not involve “wet” work. But the total labor costs are very significant, and the cost of the entire set of materials will be very considerable. But the insulation qualities and the effectiveness of protecting walls from various external influences in this case are significantly higher.
- , from the premises.
This approach to thermal insulation of walls causes a lot of criticism. Here there is a significant loss of living space, and difficulties in creating a full-fledged insulated layer without “cold bridges” - they usually remain in the area where the walls adjoin the floors and ceilings, and a violation of the optimal balance of humidity and temperatures in such a “pie”.
Of course, placing thermal insulation on the inner surface sometimes becomes almost the only available way to insulate walls, but whenever possible it is still worth giving preference to external insulation.
Is it worth insulating walls from the inside?
All the shortcomings and, without exaggeration, dangers are described in great detail in a special publication on our portal.
- Insulation of walls by creating a “sandwich structure” »
Typically, this technology for insulating external walls is used during the construction of a building. Several different approaches can be used here as well.
A. The walls are laid out according to the “well” principle, and as they rise into the resulting cavity, dry or liquid (foaming and hardening) is poured. thermal insulator. This method has been used by architects for a long time, when natural materials were used for insulation - dry leaves and pine needles, sawdust, discarded wool, etc. Nowadays, of course, special thermal insulation materials adapted for such use are more often used.
Alternatively, large walls can be used for laying walls. with large cavities that during construction, they are immediately filled with thermal insulation material (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite sand, etc.)
B. We will omit another option both during the initial construction of the house and, if necessary, to create thermal insulation in an already erected previously building. The bottom line is that the main wall is insulated with one or another material, which is then covered with brickwork of one or ½ brick.
Usually in such cases, the external masonry is done “under jointing” and becomes the finishing cladding of the facade.
A significant drawback of this method, if you have to carry out such insulation in an already erected house, is that it is necessary to expand and strengthen the foundation, since the thickness of the wall becomes significantly greater, and the load from the additional brick clutches will increase noticeably.
IN. An insulated multilayer structure is also obtained when using polystyrene foam permanent formwork for the construction of walls.
Blocks of such polystyrene foam formwork are somewhat reminiscent of the famous children's construction set "LEGO" - they have tongues and grooves for quickly assembling a wall structure, into which, as it is raised, a reinforcing belt is installed and concrete mortar is poured. The result is reinforced concrete walls that immediately have two – outer and inner – insulating layers. Then along the front side of the wall you can make thin brickwork, tiled cladding or just a plaster coating. Almost all types of finishes are also applicable inside.
This technology is gaining popularity, although in fairness, it should be noted that she also has many opponents. The main arguments are the disadvantages of expanded polystyrene from the point of view of environmental and fire safety. There are certain problems with the vapor permeability of the walls and the shift of the dew point towards the premises due to the layer of internal insulation. But apparently everyone agrees that the walls do receive reliable thermal insulation.
What other requirements must the insulation of external walls meet?
It is clear that the thermal insulation layer on the wall should first of all reduce the building’s heat loss to an acceptable minimum. But, fulfilling its main function, it should not allow negative aspects - a threat to the health of people living in the house, increased fire danger, the spread of pathogenic microflora, dampening of structures with the onset of destructive processes in the wall material, etc.
So, from the point of view of environmental safety, synthetic-based insulation raises a lot of questions. If you read manufacturers' brochures, you can almost always come across assurances about the absence of any threat. However, practice shows that most foamed polymers tend to degrade over time, and the decomposition products are not always harmless.
The situation with flammability looks even more alarming - a low flammability class (G1 or G2) does not at all mean that the material is completely safe. But more often than not, it’s not even the transfer of an open flame that is scary (most modern materials are extinguished), but the products of combustion. A sad story shows that it is toxic smoke poisoning resulting from the combustion of, for example, polystyrene foam that most often causes human casualties. And you should think carefully about what the owner risks by arranging, for example, such thermal insulation indoors.
A terrible picture - the burning of an insulated facade The specific advantages and disadvantages of the main thermal insulation materials will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding section of the article.
The next important factor that must be taken into account when planning insulation. Thermal insulation of walls should bring the “dew point” as close as possible to the outer surface of the wall, and ideally to the outer layer of the insulating material.
The “dew point” is not a linearly changing boundary in a wall “pie”, at which the transition of water from one state of aggregation to another occurs - steam turns into liquid condensate. And the accumulation of moisture means wetting of the walls, destruction of the building material, swelling and loss of insulation qualities, a direct path to the formation and development of mold or mildew, insect nests, etc.
Where can water vapor come from in the wall? Yes, it’s very simple - even in the process of normal life, a person releases at least 100 g of moisture per hour through breathing. Add here wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, bathing or showering, cooking or simply boiling water. It turns out that during the cold season, the saturated vapor pressure indoors is always significantly higher than outdoors. And if measures for effective air ventilation are not taken in the house, moisture seeks its way through building structures, including through walls.
This is a completely normal process, which will not cause any harm if the insulation is planned and implemented correctly. But in cases where the “dew point” is shifted towards the rooms ( this is a typical drawback insulation of walls from the inside), the balance may be upset, and the wall with insulation will begin to become saturated with moisture.
To minimize or completely eliminate the consequences of condensation, you should adhere to the rule - the vapor permeability of the wall “pie” should ideally increase from layer to layer towards their placement outside. Then, with natural evaporation, excess moisture will be released into the atmosphere.
For example, the table below shows the values steam-permeable abilities of basic construction, insulation and finishing materials. This should help with the initial planning of thermal insulation.
| Material | Vapor permeability coefficient, mg/(m*h*Pa) |
|---|---|
| Reinforced concrete | 0.03 |
| Concrete | 0.03 |
| Cement-sand mortar (or plaster) | 0.09 |
| Cement-sand-lime mortar (or plaster) | 0,098 |
| Lime-sand mortar with lime (or plaster) | 0.12 |
| Expanded clay concrete, density 800 kg/m3 | 0.19 |
| Clay brick, masonry | 0.11 |
| Brick, silicate, masonry | 0.11 |
| Hollow ceramic brick (1400 kg/m3 gross) | 0.14 |
| Hollow ceramic brick (1000 kg/m3 gross) | 0.17 |
| Large format ceramic block (warm ceramics) | 0.14 |
| Foam concrete and aerated concrete, density 800 kg/m3 | 0.140 |
| Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs, 500-450 kg/m3 | 0,11 |
| Arbolit, 600 kg/m3 | 0.18 |
| Granite, gneiss, basalt | 0,008 |
| Marble | 0,008 |
| Limestone, 1600 kg/m3 | 0.09 |
| Limestone, 1400 kg/m3 | 0.11 |
| Pine, spruce across the grain | 0.06 |
| Pine, spruce along the grain | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 0.3 |
| Plywood | 0.02 |
| Chipboard and fibreboard, 600 kg/m3 | 0.13 |
| Tow | 0.49 |
| Drywall | 0,075 |
| Gypsum slabs (gypsum slabs), 1350 kg/m3 | 0,098 |
| Gypsum slabs (gypsum slabs), 1100 kg/m3 | 0.11 |
| Mineral wool, depending on density 0.3 ÷ 0.37 | 0.3 ÷ 0.37 |
| Glass mineral wool, depending on density | 0.5 ÷ 0.54 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, XPS) | 0,005 ; 0,013; 0,004 |
| Expanded polystyrene (foam), plate, density from 10 to 38 kg/m3 | 0.05 |
| Cellulose ecowool (depending on density) | 0.30 ÷ 0.67 |
| Polyurethane foam, at any density | 0.05 |
| Bulk expanded clay - gravel, depending on density | 0.21 ÷ 0.27 |
| Sand | 0.17 |
| Bitumen | 0,008 |
| Ruberoid, glassine | 0 - 0,001 |
| Polyethylene | 0.00002 (virtually impenetrable) |
| Linoleum PVC | 2E-3 |
| Steel | 0 |
| Aluminum | 0 |
| Copper | 0 |
| Glass | 0 |
| Block foam glass | 0 (rarely 0.02) |
| Bulk foam glass | 0.02 ÷ 0.03 |
| Bulk foam glass, density 200 kg/m3 | 0.03 |
| Glazed ceramic tiles | ≈ 0 |
| OSB (OSB-3, OSB-4) | 0,0033-0,0040 |
For example, let's look at the diagram:
1 – main wall of the building;
2 – layer of thermal insulation material;
3 – layer of external façade finishing.
Blue wide arrows indicate the direction of diffusion of water vapor from the room towards the street.
On the fragment "A" shown in a camp that, with a very high degree of probability, will always remain damp. The vapor permeability of the materials used decreases towards the street, and the free diffusion of vapor will be very limited, if not stopped altogether.
Fragment "b"- an insulated and finished wall, in which the principle of increase is observed steam-permeable ability of layers - excess moisture evaporates freely into the atmosphere.
Of course, not in all cases, for one reason or another, it is possible to achieve such ideal conditions. In such situations, it is necessary to try as much as possible to provide for the release of moisture, but if the external decoration of the walls is planned with a material whose vapor permeability is close to zero, then it would be best to install so-called “ventilated façade”(item 4 on fragment "V"), which was already mentioned in the article.
If thermal insulation is installed from steam-proof materials, the situation here is more complicated. It will be necessary to provide a reliable vapor barrier that will eliminate or minimize the likelihood of vapors entering the wall structure from inside the room (some insulation materials themselves are a reliable barrier to the penetration of vapors). And yet, it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely prevent the “preservation” of moisture in the wall.
Natural questions may arise - what about in the summer, when the water vapor pressure outside often exceeds the same indicators inside the house? Will there be reverse diffusion?
Yes, such a process will occur to a certain extent, but there is no need to be afraid of it - in conditions of elevated summer temperatures, active evaporation of moisture occurs, and the wall will not be able to become saturated with water. When the moisture balance is normalized, the wall structure will return to its normal dry state. But temporarily increased humidity does not pose a particular threat - it is more dangerous at low temperatures and freezing of walls - that’s when condensation reaches its peak. In addition, in the summer, in most houses, windows or vents are constantly open, and there will simply not be any significant difference in vapor pressure for abundant reverse diffusion.
In any case, no matter how high-quality the thermal insulation is, and no matter how optimally it is located, the most effective measure for normalizing the humidity balance is effective ventilation of the premises. The outlet that is located in the kitchen or bathroom cannot cope with such a task on its own!
It is interesting that the issue of ventilation began to be raised with such urgency relatively recently - with the start of mass installation by apartment owners of metal-plastic windows with double-glazed windows and doors with airtight seals around the perimeter. In old houses, wooden windows and doors were a kind of “ventilation duct”, and together with vents, they to some extent coped with the task of air exchange.
Ventilation issues - special attention!
Clear signs of insufficient ventilation in the apartment are abundant condensation on the glass and damp spots at the corners of the window slopes. and how to deal with it - in a separate publication on our portal.
What materials are used to insulate external walls?
Now let's move on to, in fact, consider the main materials that are used to insulate the external walls of the house. The main technical and operational parameters will, as a rule, be presented in the form of tables. And attention in the text will be focused on the characteristics of the material in terms of its use in this particular area.
Bulk materials
To insulate walls, subject to certain conditions, materials can be used to fill cavities inside the wall structure, or they can be used to create lightweight solutions that have thermal insulating qualities.
Expanded clay
Of all the materials of this type, the most famous is expanded clay. It is obtained by special preparation of special types of clay and subsequent firing of clay pellets at temperatures above 1100 degrees. This thermal effect leads to the phenomenon of pyroplasty - avalanche-like gas formation due to the water present in the raw material and the decomposition products of the components. The result is a porous structure that provides good thermal insulation qualities, and sintering of the clay gives the granules high surface strength.
After receiving the finished product, it is sorted by size - fraction. Each fraction has its own indicators of bulk density and, accordingly, thermal conductivity.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel 20 ÷ 40 mm | Expanded clay crushed stone 5 ÷ 10 mm | Expanded clay sand or sand-crushed stone mixture 0 ÷ 10 mm |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bulk density, kg/m³ | 240 ÷ 450 | 400 ÷ 500 | 500 ÷ 800 |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°С | 0.07 ÷ 0.09 | 0.09 ÷ 0.11 | 0.12 ÷ 0.16 |
| Water absorption,% of volume | 10 ÷ 15 | 15 ÷ 20 | no more than 25 |
| Weight loss, %, during freezing cycles (with standard frost resistance grade F15) | no more than 8 | no more than 8 | not regulated |
What are the advantages of expanded clay as an insulating material:
- Ceramite is highly environmentally friendly - no chemical compounds are used in its production .
- An important quality is the fire resistance of the material. It does not burn on its own, does not spread flame, and when exposed to high temperatures does not emit substances harmful to human health. .
- Expanded clay will never become a breeding ground for any form of life, and besides, insects also avoid it .
- Despite the hygroscopicity, rotting processes in the material will not develop .
- Prices for the material are quite reasonable, affordable for most consumers.
The disadvantages include the following:
- High-quality insulation will require sufficiently thick
- Insulation of walls is only possible by creating a multi-layer structure with cavities inside or using large hollow blocks in construction. Insulating the walls of a previously built house in this way - uh This is a very large-scale and costly undertaking that is unlikely to be profitable.
Expanded clay is poured into the cavity dry or poured in the form of a lightweight concrete solution ( expanded clay concrete).
Prices for expanded clay
Expanded clay
Vermiculite
A very interesting and promising insulation material is vermiculite. It is obtained by heat treatment of a special rock - hydromica. The high moisture content in the raw materials leads to the effect of pyroplasty, the material rapidly increases in volume (swells), forming porous and layered granules of various fractions.
This structural structure predetermines high heat transfer resistance. The main characteristics of the material are given in the table:
| Options | Units | Characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Density | kg/m³ | 65 ÷ 150 |
| Coefficient of thermal conductivity | W/m ×° K | 0.048 ÷ 0.06 |
| Melting temperature | °C | 1350 |
| Thermal expansion coefficient | 0,000014 | |
| Toxicity | non-toxic | |
| Color | Silver, golden, yellow | |
| Application temperature | °C | -260 to +1200 |
| Sound absorption coefficient (at sound frequency 1000 Hz) | 0.7 ÷ 0.8 |
Along with a lot of advantages, vermiculite has one very significant drawback - too high a price. Thus, one cubic meter of dry material can cost 7 thousand or more rubles (you can find offers exceeding even 10 thousand). Naturally, using it in its pure form to fill a cavity is extremely wasteful. Therefore, the optimal solution seems to be to use vermiculite as a component in the manufacture of “warm plaster”.
Often, “warm plaster” is enough for high-quality thermal insulation. Such a plaster layer gives the walls good thermal insulation qualities, and in some cases such insulation will even be quite sufficient.
By the way, the material has high vapor permeability, so these can be used on any wall surfaces with virtually no restrictions.
They are also quite applicable for interior decoration. Thus, warm plasters with vermiculite can be prepared both on the basis of cement and on the basis of gypsum - depending on the specific conditions of their use. Moreover, such wall covering will also give them increased fire resistance - even a wooden wall covered with vermiculite plaster will be able to withstand the “pressure” of an open flame for a certain time.
Another material obtained by heat treatment of rock. The raw material in this case is perlite - volcanic glass. When exposed to high temperatures, particles of this rock swell and become porous, forming extremely light porous sand with a specific gravity of only about 50 kg/m³.
Low density and gas filling perlite sand is what is required for effective thermal insulation. The main properties of the material, depending on the grade by bulk density, are given in the table;
| The name of indicators | Sand grade by bulk density | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 75 | 100 | 150 | 200 | |
| Bulk density, kg/m3 | Up to 75 inclusive | Over 75 and up to 100 inclusive | Over 100 and up to 150 inclusive | Over 150 and up to 200 inclusive |
| Thermal conductivity at temperature (20 ± 5) °С, W/m ×°С, no more | 0,047 | 0,051 | 0,058 | 0,07 |
| Humidity, % by mass, no more | 2, 0 | 2 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| Compressive strength in a cylinder (determined by fraction 1.3-2.5 mm), MPa (kgf/cm2), not less | Not standardized | 0.1 | ||
What makes this material popular is its relatively low price, which cannot be compared with the same vermiculite. True, both the technological and operational qualities here are worse.
One of the disadvantages of perlite when used in dry form is its extremely high moisture absorption– it’s not for nothing that it is often used as an adsorbent. The second drawback is that sand always contains extremely fine fractions, almost powder, and working with the material, especially in open conditions, even with a very slight breeze, is extremely difficult. However, there will be enough trouble indoors, since it produces a lot of dust.
A common area of application for perlite sand is the production of lightweight concrete mortars with thermal insulation properties. Another typical use is mixing masonry compounds. The use of such solutions when laying walls minimizes the effect of cold bridges along the seams between bricks or blocks.
Perlite expanded sand is also used in the production of ready-made dry mixes - “warm plasters”. These construction and finishing compounds are rapidly gaining popularity, since at the same time as adding additional insulation to the walls, they also immediately perform a decorative function.
Video - Review of “warm plaster” THERMOVER
Mineral wool
Of all the insulation materials used, mineral wool will most likely take first place in the “availability – quality” category. This is not to say that the material is without drawbacks - there are many of them, but for thermal insulation of walls it often becomes the best option.
In residential construction, as a rule, two types of mineral wool are used - glass wool and basalt (stone). Their comparative characteristics are indicated in the table, and a more detailed description of the advantages and disadvantages follows it.
| Name of parameters | Stone (basalt) wool | |
|---|---|---|
| Limit temperature of use, °C | from -60 to +450 | up to 1000° |
| Average fiber diameter, µm | from 5 to 15 | from 4 to 12 |
| Hygroscopicity of the material in 24 hours (no more),% | 1.7 | 0,095 |
| Taunting | Yes | No |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m ×° K) | 0.038 ÷ 0.046 | 0.035 ÷ 0.042 |
| Sound absorption coefficient | from 0.8 to 92 | from 0.75 to 95 |
| Presence of binder, % | from 2.5 to 10 | from 2.5 to 10 |
| Flammability of the material | NG - non-flammable | NG - non-flammable |
| Release of harmful substances during combustion | Yes | Yes |
| Heat capacity, J/kg ×° K | 1050 | 1050 |
| Vibration resistance | No | moderate |
| Elasticity, % | no data | 75 |
| Sintering temperature, °C | 350 ÷ 450 | 600 |
| Fiber length, mm | 15 ÷ 50 | 16 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss), % in water | 6.2 | 4.5 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss), % in alkaline environment | 6 | 6.4 |
| Chemical stability (weight loss), % in acidic environment | 38.9 | 24 |
This material is obtained from quartz sand and broken glass. The raw material is melted, and thin and fairly long fibers are formed from this semi-liquid mass. Next, sheets, mats or blocks of various densities (from 10 to 30 kg/m³) are formed, and in this form the glass wool is supplied to the consumer.
- it is very plastic, and when packaging it is easily compressed to small volumes - this simplifies both transportation and delivery of the material to the work site. After removing the packaging, the mats or blocks are straightened to their intended dimensions. Low density and, accordingly, low weight - this means ease of installation, no need to reinforce walls or ceilings - the additional load on them will be insignificant .
- is not afraid of chemical exposure, it does not rot or rot. Rodents don’t really “like” it, and it won’t become a breeding ground for home microflora either. .
- It is convenient to place glass wool between the frame guides, and the elasticity of the material opens up the possibility of thermal insulation of complex, including curved surfaces .
- The abundance of raw materials and the comparative ease of manufacturing glass wool make this material one of the most affordable in terms of cost.
Disadvantages of glass wool:
- The fibers of the material are long, thin and brittle, and, as is typical for any glass, they have sharp cutting edges. They certainly won’t be able to cause a cut, but they will certainly cause persistent skin irritation. Even more dangerous is the contact of these small fragments with the eyes, mucous membranes or respiratory tract. When working with such mineral wool, compliance with increased safety rules is required - protection of the skin of the hands and face, eyes, and respiratory organs .
The very high probability of fine glass dust getting into the room, where it can be transported in suspension with air currents, makes the use of glass wool for interior work very undesirable.
- absorbs water quite strongly and, when saturated with moisture, partially loses its insulating qualities. Either hydro-vapor barrier of the insulation or the possibility of its free ventilation must be provided. .
- Over time, glass wool fibers can sinter and stick together - nothing unusual, since glass is an amorphous material. The mats become thinner and denser, losing their thermal insulation properties .
- Formaldehyde resins are used as a binding material that holds thin fibers in a single mass. No matter how much manufacturers assure that their products are completely environmentally safe, the release of free formaldehyde, which is extremely harmful to human health, occurs constantly throughout the entire period of operation of the material.
Of course, there are certain standards of sanitary compliance, and conscientious manufacturers try to adhere to them. High-quality material must have appropriate certificates - it never hurts to ask for them. But still, the presence of formaldehyde is another reason not to use glass wool indoors.
Basalt wool
This insulation is made from molten rocks of the basalt group - hence the name “stone wool”. After the fibers are drawn out, they are formed into mats, creating not a layered, but rather a chaotic structure. After processing, the blocks and mats are further pressed under certain thermal conditions. This determines the density and clear “geometry” of the manufactured products.
- Even in appearance, basalt wool looks denser. Its structure, especially for high-density brands, is sometimes even closer to felt. But the increased density does not at all mean a decrease in thermal insulation qualities - basalt wool is not inferior to glass wool in this, and often even surpasses it .
- The situation with hygroscopicity is much better. Some brands of basalt wool, thanks to special processing, are even close to hydrophobicity .
- Clear the shapes of the blocks and panels make installation of such mineral wool a fairly simple task. If necessary, the material can be easily cut to the required size. True, it will be difficult to work with it on surfaces of complex configurations. .
- Stone wool has excellent vapor permeability, and with proper installation of thermal insulation, the wall will remain “breathable”.
- The density of basalt mineral wool blocks makes it possible to install it on construction adhesive, ensuring maximum adherence to the insulated surface - this is extremely important for high-quality thermal insulation. In addition, such wool can be used to lay a plaster layer immediately after reinforcement. .
- The fibers of basalt wool are not so brittle and thorny, and in this regard it is much easier to work with it. True, security measures will not be superfluous.
The disadvantages include:
- Although basalt insulation, of course, will not become a breeding ground for rodents, they will not build their nests in it with great pleasure.
- There is no escape from the presence of formaldehyde - everything is exactly the same as in glass wool, maybe to a slightly lesser extent.
- The cost of such insulation is significantly higher than glass wool.
Video - Useful information about basalt mineral wool " TechnoNIKOL»
What's the conclusion? Both mineral wool is quite suitable for thermal insulation of walls, if all conditions are met so that it is not actively saturated with moisture and has the opportunity to “ventilate”. The optimal location for its placement is the outside of the walls, where it will create effective insulation and will not cause much harm to the people living in the house.
The use of mineral wool for internal insulation should be avoided if possible.
It may be noted that there is another type of mineral wool - slag. But it was deliberately not included in the detailed review, since it is of little use for insulating a residential building. Of all types, it is most prone to moisture absorption and shrinkage. High residual acidity of slag wool leads to activation of corrosion processes in materials covered with it. And the purity of the feedstock – blast furnace slag – also raises a lot of doubts.
Prices for mineral wool
Mineral wool
Polystyrene group insulation materials
Polystyrene-based thermal insulation materials can also be classified as the most commonly used. But if you take a closer look at them, they will raise a lot of questions.
Expanded polystyrene comes in two main types. The first one is unpressed foamed polystyrene, which is more often called polystyrene foam (PBS). The second is a more modern option, a material obtained using extrusion technology (EPS). First, a comparison table of materials.
| Material parameters | Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) | Styrofoam |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient (W/m ×° C) | 0.028 ÷ 0.034 | 0.036 ÷ 0.050 |
| Water absorption over 24 hours in % of volume | 0.2 | 0.4 |
| Ultimate strength at static bending MPa (kg/cm²) | 0.4 ÷ 1 | 0.07 ÷ 0.20 |
| Compressive strength 10% linear deformation, not less than MPa (kgf/cm²) | 0.25 ÷ 0.5 | 0.05 ÷ 0.2 |
| Density (kg/m³) | 28 ÷ 45 | 15 ÷ 35 |
| Operating temperatures | -50 to +75 |
Styrofoam
It would seem that the familiar white polystyrene foam is an excellent material for wall insulation. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, lightweight and fairly durable blocks of clear shapes, ease of installation, a wide range of thicknesses, affordable price - all these are undeniable advantages that attract many consumers.
The most controversial material is foam However, before deciding to insulate walls with foam plastic, you need to think very carefully and evaluate the dangers of this approach. There are many reasons for this:
- Coefficient T The thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is truly “enviable”. But this is only in the original dry state. The structure of the foam itself is air-filled balls glued together, suggesting the possibility of significant moisture absorption. So, if you immerse a piece of foam plastic in water for a certain time, it can absorb 300% or more of its mass of water. Of course, the thermal insulation qualities are sharply reduced. .
And with all this, the vapor permeability of PBS is low, and walls insulated with it will not have normal vapor exchange.
- You should not believe that polystyrene foam is a very durable insulation. The practice of its use shows that after a few years destructive processes begin - the appearance of cavities, cavities, cracks, an increase in density and a decrease in volume. Laboratory studies of fragments damaged by this kind of “corrosion” showed that the overall heat transfer resistance decreased by almost eight times! Is it worth it to start such insulation, which will have to be changed after 5 - 7 years?
- Polystyrene foam cannot be called safe from a sanitary point of view. This material belongs to the group of equilibrium polymers, which, even under favorable conditions, can undergo depolymerization - decomposition into components. At the same time, free styrene is released into the atmosphere, a substance that poses a danger to human health. Exceeding the maximum permissible concentration of styrene causes heart failure, affects the condition of the liver, and leads to the occurrence and development of gynecological diseases.
This depolymerization process is activated as temperature and humidity increase. So using polystyrene foam for indoor insulation is an extremely risky proposition.
- And finally, the main danger is the instability of the material to fire. It is impossible to call polystyrene foam a non-flammable material; under certain conditions it actively burns, releasing extremely toxic smoke. Even a few breaths can lead to thermal and chemical burns of the respiratory system, toxic damage to the nervous system and death. Unfortunately, there is a lot of sad evidence of this.
It is for this reason that foam plastic has long been no longer used in the production of railway cars and other vehicles. In many countries it is simply prohibited in construction, and in any form - ordinary insulating boards, sandwich panels or even permanent formwork. A house insulated with polystyrene can turn into a “fire trap” with almost zero chance of saving the people remaining in it.
Extruded polystyrene foam
A number of the disadvantages of polystyrene foam were eliminated by the development of a more modern type of expanded polystyrene. It is obtained by completely melting the feedstock with the addition of certain components, followed by foaming the mass and pressing it through molding nozzles. The result is a finely porous, homogeneous structure, with each air bubble completely isolated from its neighbors.
This material is distinguished by increased mechanical strength in compression and bending, which significantly expands the scope of its application. Thermal insulation qualities are much higher than those of polystyrene foam, plus EPS practically does not absorb moisture, and its thermal conductivity does not change.
The use of carbon dioxide or inert gases as a foaming component sharply reduces the possibility of ignition under the influence of a flame. However, there is still no need to talk about complete safety in this matter.
Such expanded polystyrene has greater chemical stability and “poisons the atmosphere” to a lesser extent. Its service life is estimated at several decades.
EPPS is practically impermeable to water vapor and moisture. This is not a very good quality for walls. True, with some caution it can be used for internal insulation - in this case, with proper installation, it simply will not allow saturated vapors to penetrate the wall structure. If EPS is installed outside, then this should be done with an adhesive composition so as not to leave a gap between it and the wall, and the external cladding should be done according to the principle of a ventilated facade.
The material is actively used for thermal insulation of loaded structures. It is perfect for insulating a foundation or basement - its strength will help cope with the load of the soil, and water resistance in such conditions is an absolutely invaluable advantage.
The foundation does not require insulation!
Many people forget about this, and to some it seems like some kind of whim. Why and how to do this using EPS - in a special publication on the portal.
But there is no escape from the general chemical composition, and it was not possible to get rid of the highest toxicity during combustion. Therefore, all warnings regarding the danger of polystyrene foam in a fire fully apply to EPS.
Prices for polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, PIR boards
Expanded polystyrene, Foam plastic, PIR boards
Polyurethane foam
Wall insulation by spraying (PPU) is considered one of the most promising areas in construction. In its thermal insulation qualities, polyurethane foam is significantly superior to most other materials. Even a very small layer of 20 — 30 mm m can give a noticeable effect.
| Material characteristics | Indicators |
|---|---|
| compressive strength (N/mm²) | 0.18 |
| Flexural strength (N/mm²) | 0.59 |
| Water absorption (% volume) | 1 |
| Thermal conductivity (W/m ×° K) | 0,019-0,035 |
| Closed cell content (%) | 96 |
| Foaming agent | CO2 |
| Flammability class | B2 |
| Fire resistance class | G2 |
| Application temperature from | +10 |
| Application temperature from | -150oС to +220oС |
| Application area | Heat-hydro-cold insulation of residential and industrial buildings, tanks, ships, cars |
| Effective service life | 30-50 years |
| Moisture, aggressive environments | Stable |
| Ecological cleanliness | Safe. Approved for use in residential buildings. Used in the production of food refrigerators |
| Loss of flow time (seconds) | 25-75 |
| Vapor permeability (%) | 0.1 |
| Cellularity | closed |
| Density (kg/m3) | 40-120 |
Polyurethane foam is formed by mixing several components - as a result of the interaction with each other and with oxygen in the air, the material foams and increases in volume. The applied polyurethane foam quickly hardens, forming a durable waterproof shell. The highest adhesion rates allow spraying on almost any surface. The foam fills even minor cracks and depressions, creating a monolithic seamless “fur coat”.
The initial components themselves are quite toxic, and working with them requires increased precautions. However, after the reaction and subsequent hardening, within a few days all dangerous substances completely disappear, and the polyurethane foam will no longer pose any danger.
It has fairly high fire resistance. Even during thermal decomposition, it does not release products that can cause toxic damage. For these reasons, it was he who replaced expanded polystyrene in mechanical engineering and in the production of household appliances.
It would seem that this is an ideal option, but again the problem rests on the complete lack of vapor permeability. For example, spraying polyurethane foam on a wall made of natural wood can “kill” it within several years - moisture that has no outlet will inevitably lead to processes of decomposition of organic matter. But it will be almost impossible to get rid of the applied layer. In any case, if polyurethane foam spraying is used for insulation, the requirements for effective ventilation of premises increase.
Among the disadvantages, one more circumstance can be noted - during the process of applying the material it is impossible to achieve an even surface. This will create certain problems if contact finishing is planned on top - plaster, cladding, etc. Leveling the surface of hardened foam to the required level is a complex and time-consuming task.
And one more conditional disadvantage of insulating polyurethane foam walls is the impossibility of independently carrying out such work. It necessarily requires special equipment and equipment, stable technological skills. In any case, you will have to resort to calling a team of specialists. The material itself is not cheap, plus the production of work - the total can result in very serious costs.
Video - An example of spraying polyurethane foam on the external walls of a house
Ecowool
Many people have not even heard about this insulation and do not consider it as an option for thermal insulation of external walls. And completely in vain! In a number of positions, ecowool is ahead of other materials, becoming almost an ideal solution to the problem.
Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers - wood waste and waste paper are used. The raw materials undergo high-quality pre-treatment - fire retardants for fire resistance and boric acid - to give the material pronounced antiseptic qualities.
| Characteristics | Parameter values |
|---|---|
| Compound | cellulose, mineral anipirent and antiseptic |
| Density, kg/m³ | 35 ÷ 75 |
| Thermal conductivity, W/m×°K | 0.032 ÷ 0.041 |
| Vapor permeability | the walls "breathe" |
| Fire safety | flame-retardant, no smoke formation, combustion products are harmless |
| Filling voids | fills all the cracks |
Ecowool is usually applied to walls by spraying - for this, in a special installation, the material is mixed with an adhesive mass, and then fed into a sprayer under pressure. As a result, a coating is formed on the walls that has very good heat transfer resistance. Ecowool can be applied in several layers to achieve the required thickness. The process itself goes very quickly. At the same time, certain protective equipment is certainly needed, but it is not as “categorical” as, say, when working with glass wool or when spraying polyurethane foam.
Ecowool itself does not pose a danger to people. The boric acid it contains can cause skin irritation only with prolonged direct contact. But it becomes an insurmountable barrier to mold or mildew, and to the appearance of nests of insects or rodents.
Ecowool has excellent vapor permeability and “preservation” will not occur in the walls. True, the material is quite hygroscopic and requires reliable protection from direct ingress of water - for this it must be covered with a diffuse membrane.
Ecowool is also used using “dry” technology - it is poured into the cavities of building structures. True, experts note that in this case it will have a tendency to caking and loss in volume and insulating qualities. For walls, spraying will still be the best choice.
What can you say about the disadvantages?
- A surface insulated with ecowool cannot be immediately plastered or painted; it must be topped with one material or another.
- Spraying ecowool will require special equipment. The material itself is quite inexpensive, but with the involvement of specialists, the cost of such insulation will increase.
Video - Insulating walls with ecowool
Based on the totality of all its positive and negative qualities, ecowool is seen as the most promising option for insulating external walls.
What thickness of insulation will be required?
If the owners of the house have decided on insulation, then it’s time to find out what thickness of thermal insulation will be optimal. A layer that is too thin will not be able to eliminate significant heat loss. Excessively thick - not very useful for the building itself, and will entail unnecessary costs.
The calculation method with acceptable simplification can be expressed by the following formula:
Rsum= R1+ R2+ … + Rn
Rsum– total heat transfer resistance of a multilayer wall structure. This parameter is calculated for each region. There are special tables, but you can use the map diagram below. In our case, the upper value is taken - for the walls.
Resistance value Rn- this is the ratio of the thickness of the layer to the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which it is made.
Rn= δn/λn
δn– layer thickness in meters.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity.
As a result, the formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation appears as follows:
δth= (Rsum– 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2– … – δn/λn) × λut
0,16 - this is an averaged account of the thermal resistance of air on both sides of the wall.
Knowing the parameters of the wall, measuring the thickness of the layers and taking into account the thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation, it is easy to carry out independent calculations. BUT to make the task easier for the reader, below is a special calculator that already contains this formula.
« How to insulate a house from the outside? - this question worries many owners of private buildings. Insulating any room from the outside creates not only a comfortable microclimate, but also has an economic effect. First of all, increasing the temperature eliminates the need to frequently turn on additional heating. Secondly, low temperatures promote the development of fungus and mold. For this reason, things, ceilings, walls begin to rot. And again - additional costs.
Thermal insulation on the outside is done in different ways. However, when choosing a suitable insulation, you need to focus on the material from which the walls are made. Let's look at several options for thermal insulation and types of insulation.
What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside?
2. Prime the surface.
3. Install flashings (external window sills). Align them horizontally using a level.
4. Place a base that will allow you to maintain the line and prevent the slab from sliding down.
Start laying foam sheets from the bottom. The evenness of the entire row will depend on how correctly the lowest slab is positioned. Place the slabs on the glue. After 3 days, further strengthen them with nails. If polystyrene foam is used to insulate a timber house, carefully seal all cracks and holes. You can take any material - polyurethane foam, ecowool or mineral wool. The main thing is that you eliminate drafts and air circulation.
How to insulate the walls of a house outside
How can you insulate a house from the outside?
2. Cover the slabs with another layer of the same mixture. This is necessary for additional protection.
3. Apply alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh.
4. Prime the entire surface.
5. Last layer – choose it yourself. Can be plastered or painted. Or you can choose some decorative material.
How to insulate a wooden house from the outside
First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that wood of any type evaporates moisture. That is why, when insulating external walls, it is necessary to take care of creating high-quality ventilation. Choose basalt wool or glass wool as insulation. The second option will cost you less. Before starting work, replace wooden window frames with plastic frames.
Begin installation by installing the frame, which is mounted from wooden slats installed vertically. The distance between the slats is equal to the width of the slab of heat-insulating material. Special plastic dowels are used for fastening.
How to insulate a timber house from the outside
To build a house from timber, as a rule, timber with a section of 200 by 200 mm or 150 by 150 mm is used. The technology of building from this material came to us from southern countries, so here it “blesses” its owners with colossal heat losses. However, with skillful hands and desire, you can reduce them to almost zero.
2 layers - timber with a section of 50 by 100 mm
For those who are planning a kitchen renovation, it will be interesting to know how to make a suspended ceiling in the kitchen.
2. Apply the first layer of waterproofing.
3. Install the sheathing.
4. Install insulation.
5. Apply a second layer of waterproofing.
2. Install the foam: attach it to the wall using special adhesive mixtures. Apply the composition, distribute evenly over the entire surface. After drying, reinforce the foam with umbrella dowels.
3. Perform reinforcement. For this purpose, a plastic plaster mesh is suitable, onto which a layer of plaster is subsequently applied.
How to insulate the walls of a house outside: the best insulation
It is quite difficult to achieve optimal efficiency in energy saving at home, even with an ultra-modern heating system, but without resorting to insulation of external walls. It has been established experimentally that about 30% heat escapes through uninsulated walls. The best way out of this situation is to insulate the outside walls of the house. Thus, with the help of special materials with a minimum thermal conductivity coefficient, the protection of walls from external influences is enhanced. Insulation from the outside creates a kind of barrier between the damp and cold atmosphere of the street and the microclimate inside the home. However, the success of this process will directly depend on the correctly selected insulation.
Types of materials for external wall insulation
Most often, houses are insulated on the outside with the following types of materials:
Styrofoam– has a low thermal conductivity. It consists of 90% air and 10% polymers. Easy to install and quite cheap.
Mineral wool– heat-insulating material, which is made from metallurgical slags and silicates. Unlike glass wool, working with it is safe.
Polyurethane foam– does not require the construction of frame structures. All work is carried out only by professionals, since working with insulation requires certain skills.
Penoplex– a new formula for wall insulation that retains heat better and more efficiently. It has a finely porous structure due to extrusion. Has high thermal insulation characteristics.
They also use thermal insulation, expanded polystyrene, liquid expanded clay materials, cellulose, etc. However, these insulation materials are not used as often as the above. Therefore, we will focus on considering the main insulation materials for walls.
Mineral wool
Mineral (basalt, stone) wool is a fibrous insulation material that is similar to the natural material basalt. This insulation is made from alloys of volcanic rocks at very high temperatures. This type of wool is completely fireproof and unaffected by fire.
Mineral wool options
Advantages of mineral wool:
Thermal insulation characteristics are very high due to the porous qualities of the fiber. The material retains heat well and prevents heat from entering the house in summer.
The sound insulation qualities of basalt wool are high, thanks to the chaotic interweaving of basalt fibers, which delays sound waves.
Long service life. Once you have insulated the walls of your home with mineral wool, you no longer have to worry about thermal insulation.
High tightness throughout the entire service life.
Mineral wool is an absolutely environmentally friendly wall insulation material that poses no danger to people or the environment. Installation of mineral wool on the facade and walls takes place in several stages:
Preparing the outside walls of the house.
Laying a layer of vapor-permeable membrane over the wall.
Fastening wooden slats or profiles to walls.
Laying heat-insulating mats.
Another layer of film is stretched over the insulation.
Installation of a ventilating facade of the house from the outside.
And at the final stage, new slopes, window sills and finishing elements are installed due to the increase in the thickness of the walls.
The cost of such house insulation varies from 100 to 400 rubles per m².
Polystyrene foam is very often used to insulate external walls. After all, its thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.032-0.038 W/m*K and are slightly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam.
This insulation has many advantages:
Excellent sound insulation of walls;
Light weight, which does not increase the load on the building;
Simplicity and ease of installation.
Installation of foam plastic on the walls of the house is as follows:
Installation diagram of foam insulation
Setting up a starting profile.
Applying adhesive composition to insulation.
Gluing foam plastic boards to the walls of the house.
Fastening sheets using dowel fasteners.
Installation of reinforcement elements.
Applying a decorative protective layer to the wall.
Giving the façade texture.
Drawing of mounted foam
The cost of such insulation is affordable - about 50 rubles per m²
Polyurethane foam
This material for insulating the outside walls of a house is a type of plastic. It has a cellular foamy structure and 90% consists of a gaseous substance. The remaining volume is the cell walls.
Polyurethane foam in section
Thermal insulation and properties of polyurethane foam:
The thermal conductivity of the material ranges from 0.018 to 0.035 W/m*K, which is better than that of mineral wool.
Excellent noise absorption and sound blocking.
Resistant to aggressive chemicals.
Has low moisture permeability properties.
The service life of polyurethane foam reaches 30 years old. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly.
Insulation of the walls of a house using this thermal insulation material takes place in the following order:
Polyurethane foam insulation scheme
Reinforcement to improve thermal insulation.
The cost of polyurethane foam is calculated based on the size of the wall that needs to be insulated. For example, it is necessary to insulate the facade up to 50 square meters. m. It will cost from 300 rubles per m².
Extruded penoplex is an innovative development that is designed to save energy resources.
Advantages of penoplex insulation:
The lowest thermal conductivity values than all the materials described above.
Can withstand heavy loads.
It has a long service life - more than 40 years.
Today, more and more home owners prefer Penolex due to its high performance characteristics. How does the insulation installation process go:
Penoplex insulation scheme
Preparatory work on the walls.
Applying glue to insulation boards.
Fastening with dowels.
Finishing outside.
The cost of such material varies from 300 to 400 rubles per m².
Features of installing insulation for a home
It is worth noting that the process of installing any type of insulation may differ depending on what material the house itself is built from. Walls made of logs, for example, do not require the creation of an air layer between layers of thermal insulation and the outer surface of the walls. After insulating a wooden house, preference is almost always given to a ventilated facade, which ensures air circulation. Sometimes it is lined with boards, clapboard, or façade tiles are installed. Insulation of the walls of a house made of brick and panel blocks is carried out according to a similar, standard principle.
Insulation for outside walls of a house: how to insulate it and which one is better
It has been established experimentally that about 30% of heat escapes through uninsulated walls. The best way out of this situation is to insulate the outside walls of the house.
How to insulate a house from the outside and with what
To improve the heat-saving characteristics and increase the durability of a house made of wood, brick or foam concrete, external insulation is often done using the principle of a curtain wall or using “wet” technology. In this article we will figure out how to carry out external insulation of a house and what thermal insulation materials are best used for this.
Review of insulation materials
Mineral wool
Mineral (stone or glass) wool is the most versatile insulation material, which is produced with various densities. For internal insulation, a less dense version of the heat insulator is used, for external installation - a denser one, which is able to withstand various negative influences. In general, mineral wool differs from other types of insulation in its high thermal insulation ability, durability, non-flammability, and mechanical strength. Its disadvantages are poor resistance to moisture and fairly high cost.
Ecowool is an environmentally friendly type of insulation with low thermal conductivity, just like mineral wool insulation. Ecowool is made from recycled cellulose raw materials and impregnated with special compounds that prevent fire and rotting of the material. The only disadvantage of ecowool is the complex technological process of application by spraying, however, this method allows you to evenly fill all the cracks and structural protrusions of the facades, reliably protecting the building from the penetration of cold and moisture into the interior.
Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene is one of the most popular polymer types of insulation, characterized by durability, almost zero water absorption, excellent heat-saving properties, and ease of installation. Most types of polystyrene foam boards are impregnated with fire retardant compounds, thus improving its fire resistance. Unlike insulation made from natural components, polystyrene and other types of polymer heat insulators are not susceptible to damage by microorganisms: mold, mildew and moss.
Polystyrene foam is an insulation material with a fairly high heat-insulating ability, light in weight and easy to install, moisture-resistant and inexpensive. The disadvantages of polystyrene foam include its airtightness, low resistance to mechanical damage and toxicity when ignited. In addition, polystyrene foam has low durability; it is destroyed by elevated temperatures and upon contact with chemically aggressive substances that are part of some paints and varnishes.
Which material to choose
But, along with excellent heat-saving properties, insulation materials of natural origin have increased hygroscopicity - they quickly absorb moisture, retain it in their thickness, and when frost sets in, they freeze and lose their ability to shield the cold.
In order to protect the insulating layer made of natural materials, it is recommended to use vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes, which screen out moisture and do not interfere with the ventilation of the walls.
Unlike mineral wool and other types of insulation made from natural raw materials, thermal insulation made from foamed polymers practically does not absorb moisture and lasts quite a long time. If the installation of stone or glass wool involves certain difficulties and requires compliance with safety standards, then the installation of polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam can be quickly and easily done independently. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of these materials are slightly worse than mineral wool.
Features of insulating the walls of a house outside
Insulation of walls from the outside is mainly carried out using curtain-wall facade technology, leaving a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the finishing cladding - this way the walls of the house are ventilated more effectively. 
Stages of insulating a house from the outside when installing a curtain wall:
- Cleaning and drying, treating walls with antiseptic compounds.
- Installation of vapor barrier film with sealing of panel joints with mounting tape.
- Installation of a frame for installation of insulation and external cladding.
- Laying insulation, fixing with disc dowels.
- Installation of a waterproofing, windproof multifunctional membrane.
- Fastening the façade finishing to the frame using clamps.
Insulating the facades of a house can also be done using “wet” technology - gluing a layer of heat insulation to the outer walls and applying a layer of decorative paint or plaster.
Conclusion
In some regions of Russia, the heat-saving properties of brick, wood, and concrete walls are often not enough to create a comfortable microclimate inside the house. External insulation will create an optimal temperature regime in the interior of the building and significantly save on heating costs.
To preserve the ability of walls to pass air, it is recommended to insulate houses with thermal insulators made from natural materials. But if the budget allocated for home insulation is limited, then the best solution would be to use polymer types of thermal insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene - besides, these materials are easy to install with your own hands.
How to insulate a house from the outside and with what: Expert advice
How to properly insulate a house from the outside and what material to choose for insulation, in the answers from construction experts.
Topics with the selection and description of the features of a particular type of insulation are deservedly popular on our portal. These questions become more relevant the higher the rise in energy costs and the desire of homeowners to save on heating. FORUMHOUSE has already talked about .
When choosing the best insulation for the walls of a house that is right for you, we suggest looking at the nuances of insulating a private house from a slightly different angle. To do this, consider the following questions:
- Where to start choosing material.
- What types of insulation are there?
- Is it possible to do without using it?
- Is it worth using eco-insulation materials?
- What is missing from modern means and methods of wall insulation?
Choosing material
The modern market of thermal insulation materials offers a lot of options and types. Conventionally, they can be divided into artificial (man-made) and natural. Artificial ones include: mineral wool (stone and glass wool) and polystyrene foam insulation (EPS, or polystyrene foam, EPPS - extruded polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam), foam glass, sprayed polyurethane foam, ecowool, expanded clay, etc. Natural materials include sawdust, straw, moss, flax, hemp and other eco-friendly materials.
Materials of the second group are most often used by enthusiasts in the construction of environmentally friendly houses.
To decide on the type of material, you need to pay attention to the following parameters: thermal conductivity coefficient, hygroscopicity, density, flammability class, efficiency, environmental friendliness, durability. You also need to understand in advance what and how you are going to insulate. Those. – select the scope of application of the material. To do this, we ask ourselves the question in which structural unit of the house should it work. To materials that are used for foundation insulation (), etc. Those working in the ground, in aggressive environments, are subject to certain requirements. These are resistance to moisture accumulation, rotting, high compressive strength, thermal efficiency, and durability.
The main (perhaps even the only) disadvantage of foam plastics is their flammability (under certain conditions) and limited thermal resistance. In the event of a fire, first of all, interior items (furniture, curtains, etc.) burn. Therefore, it is necessary to take measures in advance to protect polystyrene foam (if it is used for internal insulation) from an open source of fire. To do this, the foam must be covered with a good layer of concrete or plaster. It is better if PPS is used for external insulation. It must also be covered with non-combustible material (concrete, plaster), and not used as an element of a ventilated facade!
In civil housing construction, polystyrene foam is widely used for insulating foundations and flat roofs (EPS). House facades, as a base for thin-layer plaster, the so-called. “wet façade” (WFA).
- In a number of situations (especially in the field of low-rise housing construction), it is necessary to thermally insulate frame structures, where, instead of rigidity, elastic options mounted by surprise are more technologically advanced. Here, the most widely used ones are based on stone () or glass fibers - this material combines high manufacturability of installation (no special experience or special professional tools are required) with non-flammability (including fire resistance) and low production costs.
When using mineral wool materials, measures must be taken to prevent moisture from entering them. If water gets into the insulation, the “pie” of the frame structure and the vapor transparency of the layers should ensure that excess moisture escapes out. Why should vapor and waterproofing films and membranes be used correctly?
The methods described above are far from the only effective option for insulating a room.
Alexey Melnikov
To a lesser extent, insulation methods such as poured (such as screeds made from polystyrene concrete mortar) and backfill options (expanded clay gravel, foam glass chips, discarded aerated concrete blocks, etc.) are now common. Because they, in my opinion, are more appropriate as additional sound insulation in horizontal structures.
44alex User FORUMHOUSE
I would choose perlite for floors and for backfilling stone walls, but not under the ground, because... This is an excellent material in terms of price/thermal conductivity/flammability/environmental friendliness/service life.
Recently, blown insulation options are also gaining popularity. A type of cellulose fiber (so-called ecowool) or its mineral analogue. According to Alexey Melnikova, It is advisable to use these materials for thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places.
Natural materials
It is also worth highlighting materials based on natural fibers (linen, sea grass), which are now being promoted under the ideology of eco-construction. Due to the limited selection and significant price tag, these materials have not yet become widespread.
The main disadvantages of natural materials:
- shrinkage;
- unpredictability of behavior in the long term;
- susceptibility to rodents.
Let's figure out how true this is.
Russian User FORUMHOUSE
Unexpectedly, the following experiment came up: in the summer, substandard linen insulation was placed in a corner, in a stack 1.5 meters high. In winter, the water supply pipe that ran nearby leaked. We noticed this only in the summer, i.e. the bottom layer of flax lay for at least 6 months in water. And here are the results:
- For a material 5 cm thick, only 1 cm shrank under the pressure of the upper layers;
- The material that had taken on water darkened and was left to dry until the morning. The next morning he regained his form, i.e. became 5 cm thick again;
- The breaking loads also did not change.
The flax insulation after drying has remained virtually unchanged, because the structure of the flax material is fixed by melted lavsan fibers. This structure can only be changed by heating to 160-190 °C or by destroying the flax. And flax, as you know, is still used in plumbing work when sealing water pipes.
Extensive experience in using this material has been accumulated abroad. Mice don’t eat it; they make passages in it and make their homes. To avoid this, appropriate measures are taken - in the form of installing a fine-mesh steel mesh, etc.
SCM User FORUMHOUSE
I believe that using sawdust is a very environmentally friendly way of insulation. The main thing is to follow the technology. It is better to fill the sawdust in layers, carefully compacting each layer with the handle of a shovel.
Both industrially produced materials and “folk” ones have pros and cons. “Commercial” materials are a ready-made product, with known properties and a certain installation technology, following which you can be confident in the final result. Eco-insulations are more of an experiment; with a possible lower cost (sawdust), you will have to work hard during installation. The construction itself may take time. Again, we cannot guarantee a 100% final result, because... We have still accumulated little experience in using such materials in different climatic zones.
Based on all of the above, we can conclude: any material has the right to life. It all depends on the area of its application, the prevalence of this or that type of material in a particular area, its price, thermal characteristics, etc. Hence: when choosing insulation, first of all, it is necessary to start from economic calculations and the feasibility of its use in the long term.
You should also check your tasks with our questionnaire:
- where the material will be used;
- what is it for?
- what kind of structure needs to be insulated?
Having asked yourself such questions, you will understand which material is suitable specifically for your case and specifically for your building.
Is there a universal insulation?
If you dream and imagine an “ideal” insulation, with a set of universal properties, then it will be a material whose various characteristics will not be stable - they must change flexibly depending on operating conditions. In one situation, the material needs strength, high density, rigidity, clear geometry, and increased moisture resistance. In other conditions, it requires vapor transparency, low density (which means it will not work “in the ground”), ease of placement in hard-to-reach places, flexibility, and good environmental friendliness. With all this, the price that is affordable for the general public remains important. It turns out that the requirements are mutually exclusive. So it’s hardly worth chasing any special and new materials.
From our videos you will learn
You can learn how to insulate a house from many sources; construction teams specializing in this will also tell you a lot of things in detail. But all this - thermal insulation according to the rules - requires a lot of money.
Very often it is necessary to insulate an old house or country house, perhaps not so durable, and not very beautiful, but as cheaply and quickly as possible. The cheapest insulation, by the way, is made from natural materials that were used by our grandfathers...
Cheap home insulation does not mean poor quality
You need to decide to what extent to insulate the house. For example, to make it a little warmer, or noticeably warmer, or to insulate it so that heating becomes 3 times cheaper (for example), and in winter the temperature inside rises to +25 degrees without stress on the heating side. Those. thermal insulation measures will be economically feasible and will quickly pay for themselves.
It is advantageous to insulate using the latter option, i.e. the highest quality. And half-hearted solutions are a waste of time, effort and resources.
Therefore, you will have to forget about all sorts of old blankets, bedding, and 5 mm thick penofols as insulation. The thickness of the insulation should be measured in tens of centimeters, then it will be warm, and saving on energy resources will “inflate your pocket.”
But how can you insulate a house at an extremely low cost? If you buy cotton insulation in hypermarkets, it won’t be cheap; if you replace windows and doors, it will be even more expensive. Let's try to make sure that the insulation is as inexpensive as possible.
Everything that opens and is transparent should be sealed and thermally insulated first.
The lion's share of heat can escape through windows and doors due to cracks and drafts. Insulating a house should begin by installing seals where anything opens. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose an adhesive-based sealant. 
It is possible that there are simply gaps in the frames, trays or along their perimeter. Then all of them need to be sealed with sealant or in combination with fabric, and from the street side too.
Very often there are gaps where the glass meets the frames. Scotch tape won't help much here, although you can use it. But it’s better to take out the glass and put it on sealant.
New windows and doors are the best solution
The issue of windows and doors is the basis of heat conservation. The best solution is to insert modern frames with double-glazed windows, but this action will be the most expensive. 
You need to think about which windows can be covered from the outside with plastic film for the winter so that the illumination and visibility to the street are not greatly affected. The film turns into a “homemade double-glazed window” if you stretch it 1.5 - 2 cm from the glass, and at the same time make the connection with the frame airtight. To help - glazing beads, small nails, possibly sealant, after which heat leakage through this window will be reduced significantly.
Old doors, especially metal ones, are a serious bridge of cold (a place where heat escapes from the house). And if the outline of the door is already sealed, then all that remains is to stick 5 cm of dense foam plastic on top of the door leaf. As a last resort, nail a cotton blanket or felt at least 3 cm thick.
Natural heat insulators can be stored on the ceiling
You should not bother with wall insulation if the issue with the attic floor and floors has not been resolved. Walls are not so decisive, and besides, they won’t work out cheaply. And on a horizontal surface you can put any insulation. 
To insulate the ceiling and floors as cheaply as possible, all that remains is to collect fallen leaves from all over the area, and, if possible, straw and hay.
But these organic materials need to be mixed with crumbly lime to prevent biological destruction and reduce the desire of rodents to settle in such a comfortable environment. However, it is no secret that the hayloft in the attic has been used since ancient times as...
Inexpensive - polystyrene foam for the attic
In the attic you need to store a layer of natural insulation at least 35 cm thick to get the effect. Can it be replaced? Yes, the cheapest option is to replace it with polystyrene foam with a layer of 15 cm or more for a temperate climate.
You can use the cheapest one with the lowest density. But it needs to be laid in several layers, with offset seams between the sheets in the layers, so that cold bridges do not arise along the cracks. If you cover the foam with plywood and then a board, you can walk on it...
When insulating the ceiling of a house, a vapor barrier is needed. Otherwise, we risk getting the insulation, even the foam, wet, because the steam will condense just inside its layer. Therefore, first of all, the attic needs to be completely covered with plastic film. The same goes for any layer in the attic.
Placement of floor insulation
Carrying out work on floors is not fundamentally different from ceilings. First, a vapor barrier on the side of the house, then 10 cm of polystyrene foam or 25 cm of natural insulation. But how to place it all? 
The insulation of finished floors depends entirely on their design. The low underground is covered with insulation on waterproofed soil. Otherwise, the insulation is placed between the joists on the panels, ventilated from below, and insulated from the side of the house by water vapor.
If it is not possible to open the floors, then all that remains is to lay something on top of the existing wooden floors. Then make a double floor? But it will be more expensive. "Rags" won't help. Even felt 1 cm thick will help little. But in a desperate situation, this also applies.
The cheapest and easiest way is to simply lay polyethylene on the existing floor, then the same foam plastic but with a higher density of 30 kg/m cube 5 cm thick in two layers with bandaging of the seams, and simply lay a platform on it from tongue-and-groove joined boards. But at the same time, the lower old floor will quickly dry out, especially if the ventilation from below is poor...
If the loss of room height when laying a new layer on the floor is not acceptable, then maybe it’s still worth doing major insulation of the floors from underground, at least in one room to begin with...?
What is a pile?
Why did they make the pile? At least a quarter of the heat leaving the house was saved by heaps - stored hay, straw, under the boards around the perimeter of the house. This reduced heat loss through the walls, foundation and floors of the house. Now the rubble can be partially replaced by a blind area insulated with extruded polystyrene foam.
Thermal insulation of the ground around the house and the foundation itself is not only a reduction in heat loss, but also measures aimed at preserving the house and increasing its durability. More information about measures against soil heaving can be found on these pages.
All that remains is to insulate the walls, but how?
If we are talking about a wooden house, then it is most likely not worth insulating the walls. 20 cm of dry wood is equivalent in thermal insulation to 5 cm of polystyrene foam. Almost the norm for walls in temperate climates. But if the walls are stone, brick, reinforced concrete, then you need to insulate them.
The problem is that it won’t work out cheaply with the walls - you need modern insulation, which must be fixed to a vertical surface and protected from atmospheric influences. The insulation must be more vapor-transparent than the wall, therefore, for wood and foam concrete, mineral wool is needed, and for brick and concrete, ordinary polystyrene foam can be used.
You can insulate the walls yourself, so you will only have to spend money on materials. If you don't rush, you can insulate the walls in more than one season. But it needs to be done efficiently, in compliance with technology.
You can find out how the walls of a house are thermally insulated on this resource. Here, for example, we recall the key points on how to inexpensively cover a wall with foam plastic.
Sequence of fencing walls with foam plastic
A short review about inexpensive home insulation provides only primary knowledge about the technologies used. During the work process, many questions will arise that cannot be addressed in one article. You need to know that thermal insulation measures in themselves are not complicated, so you can take on the task yourself, which means saving at least half of the money costs.