When picking raspberries, many gardeners lament the insignificant harvest. However, there is no need to be upset - the plants were able to give exactly as much as external factors allowed them and as much as was inherent in the potential of their variety. It is absolutely possible to influence the number of berries. The yield of the harvest is, in most cases, the result of our labor.

Variety

Whatever one may say, laying a high raspberry harvest begins with choosing a variety. And it is better to choose it not on the plot of friends or neighbors (although you can still find a good option), but based on descriptions of varietal characteristics and reviews of other gardeners.

“Your variety” must meet your requirements. The taste qualities of the berries, their size, color, resistance to shedding, to baking, the beginning and duration of fruiting, the shape of the bush, the height and power of the shoots, the tendency to be affected by diseases - absolutely everything matters! And believe me, finding what you want is real!

The variety has been determined - it is necessary to purchase planting material. You will most likely have to buy it (if the option with neighbors is not selected). When purchasing, you need to turn to truly reliable sources, and not take the word of the first seller you meet on the market. In this case, it is not necessary to take a large number of seedlings, but to purchase plants for planting at least one row, and then, if the chosen one confirms the preferred qualities, plant a full-fledged raspberry tree (following the rules of agricultural technology, you can get root shoots in considerable quantities in the second year).

Place

Like any other crop, raspberries have their own claims to the soil, sun and neighbors. Therefore, when deciding on a planting location, you must definitely choose the best, the one that will fully satisfy the needs of raspberries.

The ideal site for a raspberry garden is an equal place, protected from the winds, not suffering from shading, with soil of medium or light texture, a groundwater level not higher than 1.5 m, a highly nutritious topsoil and a good supply of moisture. In any other option, raspberries will suffer: excess moisture can cause rotting of its roots, lack of small berries and a small number of shoots, strong wind in combination with low temperatures - stems dying, placement in lowlands - buds freezing, planting on hillocks - lack of moisture . All this affects productivity!

Landing method

The planting method also plays an equally important role in the quantity and quality of the raspberry harvest. If you take and dig young plants into unprepared soil, they are unlikely to reward you with a large number of berries. But if you lay a powerful organic cushion under the raspberry tree, the crop will reward with good development, disease resistance, and an abundance of fruits. Therefore, the best way to plant raspberries is in trenches, when a layer of organic matter is laid in ditches prepared for planting, which provides the bush with nutrition for a single year.

But in addition to filling the beds with fertilizers, it is also necessary to ensure the spatial freedom of the plants. Based on the fact that the raspberry bushes will grow in the second year, and they will need sufficient area for nutrition, arrangement of vegetative mass and maintenance, the row spacing in the raspberry garden must be left with perspective - about 1.2 m, and if the variety is tall (and many modern high-yielding varieties reach a height of more than 2.5 m) or more.

Formation

This agricultural technique is no less important than all the previous ones. How many flower clusters will be formed on it for the future harvest depends on how the raspberries are pruned (and whether they are pruned at all).

Today, the most effective method of pruning annual raspberries is the method of A.G. Sobolev. It is focused on crops grown in compliance with a full range of agricultural techniques, and is as follows.

First stage. In June - July, when raspberries bear fruit on overwintered shoots, new young shoots, intended for fruiting next year, intensively rise from its roots. As soon as they reach a height of 80 - 120 cm, their tops are shortened by 10 - 15 cm. Within a month, side branches will appear from the leaf axils of the cut shoots, and by mid-autumn they will reach a length of 30 - 40 cm. In this state, the raspberries go into winter.

Stage two. In the spring, without waiting for the foliage to appear, it is necessary to prune the raspberries again, this time shortening the second-order shoots (the same side branches whose growth was provoked last year) by 5 cm. This will give impetus to the formation of side branches on them.

Thus, by the time of fruiting, the formed raspberry will have branches of both the first and second order, and visually resemble a tree. As soon as the bush yields its harvest, without waiting for autumn, the fruit-bearing shoots must be cut out at the root. This will release nutrients for new growth and improve its ventilation and illumination. For new shoots, the technique of double pruning is again applied.

This method has proven itself as a way to double the raspberry yield. And all because the raspberry tree formed in this way lays berry branches not just on the mother (main) shoots, but also on the lateral branches formed on them.

What about remontant varieties? You can do two things with remontant varieties.

Option #1. In the fall or early spring, cut out the fruit-bearing bush completely to improve the quality of next year's autumn harvest, while the summer harvest will be missed.

Option #2. In the summer, at the first yield of berries, cut off the two-year-old shoots that bear fruit, leaving the opportunity to produce new shoots in the fall.

In order to increase the yield of remontant raspberries, it is important to remember one more pruning technique - thinning. Remontant varieties are very sensitive to thickening and respond to it not only with small berries, but also with a noticeable decrease in its quantity. Therefore, a very important point in increasing the number and size of such raspberries is thinning the raspberry tree. Only 4 fruit-bearing shoots can be left per bush of a remontant variety.

Care

However, no matter how correctly the place for raspberries is chosen, no matter how well they are pruned, without proper care of the raspberry tree there can be no talk of any increase in the yield, especially in the case of remontant varieties.

Raspberries need to be watered regularly both during the growth period, and at the time of flowering, and during the formation of berries, but not by flooding, but by maintaining the bed in a slightly damp state to a depth of 30 - 40 cm. When the bushes go into winter, carry out moisture-recharging watering.

It will not be superfluous to loosen the row spacing in the raspberry field, as well as remove weeds from the rows. It has been noticed that where raspberries grow among grass, there is no good harvest and timely development of new growth.

This raspberry responds very well to fertilizers. Loves ash, compost, rotted manure, needs nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. However, if it is planted using the trench method, it does not need to be fed for the first 2 - 3 years; otherwise, feeding must be done in the spring, at the time of the growth of new shoots and the formation of the ovary, and in the fall.

A good option for spring feeding is chicken manure diluted 1 to 10 with water and slurry diluted in 3 to 4 parts of water. For autumn treatment, you can add up to 5 buckets of manure per square meter, but every other year.

In cold areas, for the winter, it is recommended to tie raspberries in bunches and bend them to the ground, covering them with a good layer of snow during the snowy period. And in the spring, to speed up the ripening of the crop by two weeks, cover with black film or mulch generously with ash.

Thus, the high raspberry harvest is her gratitude for our attention.

There are only six secrets to obtaining large raspberry harvests. If you use them in the garden - An annual rich harvest of fragrant raspberries is guaranteed to you.

At the same time, the raspberry tree will always be in perfect order, and the berries will be large, juicy, sweet - whether you want to eat it or make aromatic jam for winter tea drinking.

And so what needs to be done:

1. Mandatory formation of a raspberry bush or a row of ribbons

From the second year life in a raspberry bush, every year they grow from the base of the bush 5-10 replacement shoots. The same number of offspring, or even more, rise from horizontal roots. Leaving such a number of shoots means losing not only in the quantity of the harvest, but also in the quality of the berries.

That's why in May-early June, that is, almost immediately after their appearance, they begin to get rid of them. This technique is called “shoot normalization.”

We remember what raspberries give maximum yield with a row width of 40-50 cm. Based on this, it should be left with the strip growing method. per 1 linear meter 12-15 shoots, with bush planting per bush 6-7.

2. Timely cutting of fruit-bearing shoots from raspberries

Based on the fact that raspberry stems bear fruit just one year, they should be cut immediately after harvest. This creates the best conditions for lighting and nutrition of annual shoots, which will help them overwinter well and produce a high harvest next year.

To increase productivity, it is necessary to increase the branching of fruiting stems. Why in the spring they are shortened to the first well-developed bud on top. Or you can equalize all the stems in height, for example up to 2 m

Another reason not to put off cutting until spring.- a lot of pests and pathogens are removed with the fruit-bearing shoots, so why save these crop destroyers until next year? And since they often damage raspberries, cut stems cannot be placed in compost; they should be burned immediately.

3. Proper nutrition of raspberries

Of all the berries, raspberries are the most demanding in terms of nutrients. The yield and size of its berries directly depend on the thickness of the stem. The largest and most powerful shoots produce the highest yields the following year. Good foliage on the stems also contributes to high yields. A growth and development of shoots and leaves are stimulated by fertilizers.

Raspberries are especially responsive to organic matter(manure, slurry, feces, peat manure composts, bird droppings). Even with good pre-planting filling of the soil, it is necessary, starting from 3rd year life on the site, systematically apply organic fertilizers (usually in the fall). Not without reason famous gardener Bolotov wrote that raspberries grow well and bear fruit “where your foot sinks in manure”.

Before entering fruiting, the young bush is fed only nitrogen fertilizers. In spring, add ammonium nitrate at the rate 15-20 g/m2.

After early spring pruning and gartering, apply 30-50 g/m2 nitroammofoski. Then the raspberries are fed once or twice at the beginning of the formation of green berries and days later. 10 after that.

Most often used liquid feeding with slurry (1:10), bird droppings (1:20) at the rate of 2-3 buckets per 1 m2 or with ready-made organic-based fertilizers (BIUD, etc.). Thanks to this, the yield significantly increases and the quality of the berries improves.

After harvesting, the soil is scattered for digging between rows and loosening the rows. 50-80 g/m2 nitroamophoska. Every autumn, starting from the 4th year, under a bush or 3-4 buckets are applied per 1 linear meter of row humus or peat mixed with 100 g of urea or saltpeter.

4. Timely and sufficient supply of raspberries with water

Unlike aronia raspberries with red and yellow berries very moisture-loving culture. There are probably no other berry plants that respond to watering by almost doubling the yield.

Lack of moisture causes weakened growth of annual shoots in raspberries, thinning of most of them, and, consequently, a decrease in yield for the next year. On biennial shoots, the berries become smaller, and many dry out before ripening.

To obtain a high yield It is very important that a sufficient number of young shoots are formed. Moreover, their growth should occur at the beginning of the season, and not at the end. Therefore, a good supply of moisture is especially important in the first half of summer.

Watering should be plentiful, at which it gets wet 25-35 cm of soil.

Based on all this, it is necessary to water raspberries twice a week during the following periods: before flowering (mid-May), during the formation of berries (late June) and during the ripening period of the crop. Water consumption per irrigation should be 3-4 buckets per 1 m2.

Autumn (moisture-recharging) watering is also very important., if the autumn rains in October - early November did not do it for us. It is necessary to water abundantly: 5-6 buckets per 1 m2.

The more thoroughly this watering is carried out, the better the overwintering of raspberry shoots.

5. Sheltering raspberries for the winter

In the conditions of the middle zone, the stems of raspberries, especially black ones, often freeze slightly. In autumn, they should be bent as low as possible to the ground and tied in a tight bunch to each other or covered with earth. In this form, the bushes find themselves under a layer of snow earlier.

But the raspberry root system is significantly superior to many berry plants in terms of frost resistance.

Therefore, if the soil is mulched and covered with snow, the roots will not freeze even at a frost of 36 degrees. In the Moscow region, the Novost Kuzmina, Sputnitsa, Latam, Nagrada, Barnaulskaya, Meteor, Solnyshko, Balsam varieties tolerate winter best.

6. Protecting raspberries from pests and diseases

In the Non-Black Earth Region there is not a single plant as loved by pests and diseases as raspberries. It is estimated that every year they destroy 30-40% of the berries, and where they are not controlled, the crop is often completely destroyed or the berries are so damaged that they are completely unfit for consumption.

That's why It is very important to purchase healthy planting material so as not to bring infection to your site. And it’s not enough to plant raspberries correctly, grow them, prune them, water them, fertilize them; you need to be able to protect them from many enemies. In other years, their invasion is massive.

Let's get acquainted with those from whom raspberries suffer most often and find out ways to protect against them.

Continued in the article -

Planting raspberries can be nested or row. The latter method is preferable, because plants receive better nutrition and lighting conditions. But in both cases, the number of plants per linear meter should not exceed ten. The staking of fruit-bearing plants is of exceptional importance! In addition to the double-sided garter, you can strengthen the shoots to a third wire, stretched higher, directly between the stakes. This is done if not 10, but 12-13 shoots are left per 1 m in a row. The buds of two or three excess shoots per meter, tied to the middle wire, are cleaned from below (removed). This technique will prevent thickening of the lower part of the row and the force of branching of the upper part of the shoots, where there are better conditions for development. Don’t be embarrassed by the fact that the tops of the shoots will hang 30-40 cm behind the wire. This is how it should be - the sun’s rays should not penetrate into the soil of the fruit row. Shade is also important as a means of suppressing weeds. But in order to completely prevent the growth of weeds, it is necessary to wrap the soil in a thin layer (no more than 3 cm) 2-3 times a season between shoots. As a result, the soil will always be loose, moderately moist and saturated with carbon dioxide for plants. Only on loose soil do all the so-called “spare buds” of plants awaken. We fight pests and diseases in the usual time frames and with approved chemicals. Feed raspberries with slurry or organic-mineral solution. After the berries ripen, the fruiting shoots complete their life cycle and dry out. Cut them out. On a plant-free, well-lit plantation, all soil nutrients are directed to replacement shoots. And the replacement shoots, grown on another part of the raspberry tree, already have vitality, ready to produce a harvest next year.

Advantages of the newly created method
The known method has the disadvantage that replacement shoots, suppressed by fruit-bearing shoots, do not reach the required strength and are not able to produce many berries next year. And fruit-bearing shoots, extremely constrained by root suckers - the latter take away a significant part of their nutrients and shade them too much - are not able to produce a high yield of good quality.
Freed from active young competitors, fruiting shoots turn into long branches with large berries. Moreover, the lower buds, usually shaded and unproductive, here form fruit branches, a meter long with a large number of berries. In the middle and upper parts of the shoots from the buds, not just one, as usual, but several fruiting branches appear, i.e. all normally “sleeping” branches awaken.
The new method of cultivating raspberries gives high yields, almost threefold, regardless of the raspberry variety. The labor productivity of pickers increases sharply: the berries are large-fruited and there are no replacement shoots getting tangled underfoot. Enlightened and well-ventilated raspberries become resistant to diseases and pests, are easy to care for, and have a beautiful appearance.
Drive stakes 130-140 cm high along the edges of the raspberry tree. Attach crossbars 120-150 cm long to them at a level of 90 cm from the ground. The wire stretched between the crossbars will serve as a support for unstable plant stems. Tie them with wire, but not closer than 20 cm from each other, and in a herringbone pattern: one shoot to the left, the other to the right wire. To prevent it from sagging, prop it up with one or two slingshots.

Amateur gardener Mikhail Rudenko from Moscow has invented a method that allows one to increase the yield of raspberries by 10 times and double the yield of currants, gooseberries,

An increase in yield is achieved in raspberry bushes in the second year, in currants - in the third year.

"... To achieve a 10-fold yield of raspberries, on June 30 of each year, I pinch off the upper, sprout bud of young shoots that have risen to a height of at least 30 cm. After this procedure, by the fall, a future bud grows from each bud located at the base of the leaf fruiting brush of the new summer.

In spring-summer currant cuttings, the upper sprout bud is also pinched off at the moment when it has reached a height of 20 centimeters. The branches that grew from this bud next spring should also be budded when they reach a length of 10 cm. At the end of the season, new shoots will grow from the buds at the base of these branches, which will be super-fruitful the next year, the third year after the first operation.
In subsequent years, the bush should no longer be pruned, and the size of the currant berries increases by 1.5 times after these procedures.

How to increase your currant harvest

If currants (white, red, black) bloom profusely in your area, and then the ovaries fall off, then the cause may be poor pollination of flowers. To avoid this, you need to take 1 tablespoon of natural honey, dissolve it in 1 liter of water and spray the bushes with this solution during their flowering. This attracts bees, which will consequently ensure excellent pollination, which in turn will increase productivity.
This method can be used for other plants.

You can significantly improve the water-air regime in the soil in order to obtain higher yields in the following simple and cheap way.

Under a currant or gooseberry bush, a hole is made at an angle slightly deeper than the root system (using a hose with water pressure, a small-diameter drill or a crowbar), and a piece of pipe (or irrigation hose) is inserted into it. A container of water is fixed above the hose, which should continuously drip into it 1-2 liters per day, depending on the weather.
In this case, the yield can increase several times. So, the weight of the pumpkin I grew in this way in 1999 exceeded 40 kg.

Is it possible to quickly propagate currants?

Can. In the fall, when caring for blackcurrant bushes, you need to select branches and cut cuttings 20 cm long from them. They are planted to a depth of about 15 cm in the grooves of well-cultivated and fertilized sandy soil (about 80 cuttings per 1 linear meter), sprinkled with earth, while Only two buds are left on the surface. Then a frame is made from slats or poles. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the frame is covered with two layers of film. The cuttings are watered quite often. At the beginning of June, in the evening or during the day in cloudy weather, cuttings are dug up. Those of them that have good roots are planted in the garden bed at a distance of 25 cm from one another. During the summer, weeding, loosening the soil and fertilizing (if possible with liquid mullein) are carried out. When the growth of the cuttings reaches 20 cm, pinching is done to make branches appear. In September, for better ripening of the wood, the tops of all shoots are pinched. Planted in a permanent place in the fall, they bear fruit the next year.

How to get two raspberry harvests a year?

For this, we need remontant varieties (September, Lyulin, Heritage), which have the ability to bear fruit on the tops of annual shoots. To get a second harvest. on a raspberry garden of these varieties, you need to form a horizontal trellis, that is, in the fall, bend the shoots that have grown during the season perpendicular to the axis of the row at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface. The following spring, replacement shoots and suckers in the row are left to grow vertically. In this case, the first harvest from two-year-old shoots on a horizontal trellis can be collected in July, the second - in September from the tops of one-year-old shoots.

How to get a triple harvest of raspberries

If there is no harvest, you wave your hand in frustration and cut out the unfortunate bushes (in the fall). But next year the surviving shoots will produce a super harvest of berries!
In the raspberry bush there are shoots of only two ages: the current year and last year's. Divide the raspberries into two equal parts, spaced from one another by at least 2 meters. In one part of the plantation you will grow only fruit-bearing shoots, and transplant the offspring (replacement shoots) to another area.
Planting raspberries can be nested or row. The latter method is preferable, as the plants receive better nutrition and lighting conditions. But in both cases, the number of plants per linear meter should not exceed ten. The staking of fruit-bearing plants is of exceptional importance! In addition to the double-sided garter, you can strengthen the shoots to a third wire, stretched higher, directly between the stakes. This is done if not 10, but 12-13 shoots are left per meter in a row. The buds of the excess ones, on every meter of two or three shoots, tied to the middle wire, are pulled out (removed) from below.
This technique will prevent thickening of the lower part of the row and strengthen the branching of the upper part of the shoots, where there are better conditions for development. Don’t be embarrassed by the fact that the tops of the shoots will hang 30-40 cm behind the wire. This is how it should be: the sun’s rays should not penetrate into the soil of the fruit row. Shade is also important as a means of suppressing weeds. But in order to completely prevent the growth of weeds, it is necessary to wrap the soil with such a layer (no more than 3 cm) 2-3 times a season between shoots. As a result, the soil will always be loose, moderately moist and saturated with carbon dioxide, valuable for plants. Only on loose soil do all the so-called “spare buds” of plants awaken. Pest and disease control is carried out in the usual time frame and using accepted chemicals. Feed raspberries with slurry or organic-mineral solution. After the berries ripen, the fruiting shoots complete their life cycle and dry out. Cut them out. On a plant-free, well-lit plantation, all soil nutrients will be directed to replacement shoots. And the replacement shoots, grown on another part of the raspberry tree, are already full of vitality, ready to produce a harvest next year.

ADVANTAGES OF THE NEWLY CREATED METHOD

1. The known method has the disadvantage that replacement shoots, suppressed by fruit-bearing shoots, do not reach the required strength and are not able to produce many berries next year. And fruit-bearing shoots, extremely constrained by root suckers - the latter take away a significant part of their nutrients and shade them too much - are not able to produce a high yield of good quality.

2. Freed from active young competitors, fruiting shoots turn into long branches with large berries. Moreover, the lower buds, usually shaded and unproductive, here form fruit branches a meter long with a large number of berries. In the middle and upper parts of the shoot, not one, as usual, but several fruit-bearing branches appear from the buds, that is, all the normally “dormant” branches awaken.

3. The new method of cultivating raspberries gives high yields, almost threefold, regardless of the raspberry variety. The labor productivity of picking increases sharply: the berries are large-fruited and there are no replacement shoots getting tangled underfoot. Enlightened and well-ventilated raspberries become resistant to diseases and pests, are easy to care for, and have a beautiful appearance.
Drive stakes 130-140 cm high along the edges of the raspberry tree. Attach a crossbar 120-150 cm long to them at a level of 90 cm from the ground. The wire stretched between the crossbars will serve as a support for unstable plant stems. Tie them with wire, but no more than 20 cm from each other, and in a herringbone pattern: one shoot to the left, the other to the right wire. To prevent the wire from sagging, support it with 1-2 slingshots.
http://nashaplaneta.su/blog/sadovod_ljubitel_mikhail_rudenko_iz_moskvy_izobrel_sposob_pozvoljajushhij_v_10_raz_uvelichit_urozhajnost_maliny_i_vdvoe_smorodiny_kryzhovnika/2015-08-09-78421

Original taken from brndk in We grow strawberries at home in... bags

Original taken from

How to get a triple harvest of raspberries? I'll teach you!)))

How to get super harvests of raspberries and currants

There is nothing better than getting decent harvests every season! It's nice to collect a basket full of juicy raspberries and healthy currants! But does everyone manage to achieve high yields? After all, what is there to hide, many summer residents are content with very modest berry picking. It is difficult for them to figure out the reason for failure on their own - they lack knowledge.

Understanding the science of growing is too lazy! This is how, from year to year, areas planted with useful crops turn into impassable jungle. It's a pity! After all, there is useful experience from experienced summer residents who share their successes and give important tips. Why not take advantage of free information that will double and triple your efforts? I think that after thinking about it, you will be patient and read the entire useful post about growing berry crops. Let your motto be the phrase: - Think first - then act! Good luck to all! Further words from the author:

Amateur gardener Mikhail Rudenko from Moscow has invented a method that allows him to increase the yield of raspberries by 10 times and double the yield of currants. According to him, the method is derived from the combination of his own skills and some well-known agricultural techniques. An increase in yield is achieved in raspberry bushes in the second year, in currants - in the third year.

To achieve a 10-fold yield of raspberries, on June 30 of each year, I pinch off the upper sprout bud of young shoots that have risen to a height of at least 30 cm. After this procedure, by the fall, from each bud located at the base of the leaf, a future fruiting brush of the new summer grows .

In spring-summer currant cuttings, the upper sprout bud is also pinched off at the moment when it has reached a height of 20 cm. The branches that grew from this bud next spring should also be budded when they reach a length of 10 cm. At the end of the season, new shoots will grow from the buds at the base of these branches, which will be super-fruitful the next year, the third year after the first operation.
In subsequent years, the bush should no longer be pruned, and the size of the currant berries increases by 1.5 times after these procedures.

How to increase your currant harvest

You can significantly improve the water-air regime in the soil in order to obtain higher yields in the following simple and cheap way. Under a currant or gooseberry bush, a hole is made at an angle slightly deeper than the root system (using a hose with water pressure, a small-diameter drill or a crowbar), and a piece of pipe (or irrigation hose) is inserted into it. A container of water is fixed above the hose, which should continuously drip into it 1-2 liters per day, depending on the weather. In this case, the yield can increase several times. So, the weight of the pumpkin I grew in this way in 1999 exceeded 40 kg.

Is it possible to quickly propagate currants?

Can. In the fall, when caring for blackcurrant bushes, you need to select branches and cut cuttings 20 cm long from them. They are planted to a depth of about 15 cm in the grooves of well-cultivated and fertilized sandy soil (about 80 cuttings per 1 linear meter), sprinkled with earth, while Only two buds are left on the surface. Then a frame is made from slats or poles. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the frame is covered with two layers of film. The cuttings are watered quite often. At the beginning of June, in the evening or during the day in cloudy weather, cuttings are dug up. Those of them that have good roots are planted in the garden bed at a distance of 25 cm from one another. During the summer, weeding, loosening the soil and fertilizing (if possible with liquid mullein) are carried out. When the growth of the cuttings reaches 20 cm, pinching is done to make branches appear. In September, for better ripening of the wood, the tops of all shoots are pinched. Planted in a permanent place in the fall, they bear fruit the next year.

How to get two raspberry harvests a year?

How to get a triple harvest of raspberries

Divide the raspberry tree into two equal parts, spaced at least 2 meters from each other. In one part of the plantation you will grow only fruit-bearing shoots, and transplant the offspring (replacement shoots) to another area.

Planting raspberries can be nested or row. The latter method is preferable, as the plants receive better nutrition and lighting conditions. But in both cases, the number of plants per linear meter should not exceed ten. The staking of fruit-bearing plants is of exceptional importance! In addition to the double-sided garter, you can strengthen the shoots to a third wire, stretched higher, directly between the stakes. This is done if not 10, but 12-13 shoots are left per meter in a row. We remove the buds from the excess, on every meter of two or three shoots tied to the middle wire, from below. This technique will prevent thickening of the lower part of the row and strengthen the branching of the upper part of the shoots, where there are better conditions for development. Don’t be embarrassed by the fact that the tops of the shoots will hang 30-40 cm behind the wire. This is how it should be: the sun’s rays should not penetrate into the soil of the fruit row.

Shade is also important not only for raspberries, but also as a means of suppressing weeds. In order to completely prevent the growth of weeds, it is necessary to wrap the soil with such a layer (no more than 3 cm) 2-3 times a season between shoots. As a result, the soil will always be loose, moderately moist and saturated with carbon dioxide, valuable for plants. Only on loose soil do all the so-called “spare buds” of plants awaken.

Feed raspberries with slurry or organic-mineral solution. After the berries ripen, the fruiting shoots complete their life cycle and dry out. Cut them out. On a plant-free, well-lit plantation, all soil nutrients will be directed to replacement shoots. And the replacement shoots, grown on another part of the raspberry tree, are already full of vitality, ready to produce a harvest next year.

Wishing you successful harvests