If someone thinks that by planting an apple tree in their dacha, they are guaranteed to provide themselves with a bountiful harvest of apples for the rest of their lives, then they may be very disappointed.

Planting a tree (like the birth of a son) is just the first small step on a long path that you have to go through before the first results of your labors make themselves felt. A tree, like a child, must be taken care of constantly, otherwise diseases and pests can cause irreparable harm to your child.

Why do you need to spray trees and shrubs in spring?

The beginning of the season, that is, the period when garden trees and shrubs, waking up after the winter cold, begin to accumulate strength to form fruit mass, is exactly the time when you need to take maximum care of their protection. That is why Treating trees in the spring against pests and diseases is an important stage in gardening agricultural technology.

In fact, spring is a treacherous period. On the one hand, the tree needs time to recover after a long stay in extreme conditions of severe frost, on the other hand, various pests, having also woken up from hibernation, begin to actively feed, happily attacking the barely blooming leaves and flowers. It is not surprising that tree care in the spring includes mandatory pest control, because if you do not intervene in the process, you may not get a harvest. Of course, it will not be possible to destroy all harmful insects in the garden, although such a task is not set. It is much more important to repel uninvited guests from the garden, to make your trees and shrubs as unattractive as possible to such pests, both from the point of view of nutrition and from the point of view of “living”.

Another important argument in favor of spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases is that this period excludes the direct impact of pesticides on the ovaries and fruits (simply because they have not yet formed), therefore, fighting garden pests in the spring minimizes the risk of subsequent poisoning with such drugs as a result of eating processed fruits and berries.

Thus, the main task of spraying the garden in the spring is to prevent pests and diseases that will lie in wait for your plot throughout the season, including when the use of fungicides and insecticides will negatively affect the ecological purity of the crop.

Of course, ideally, we all want to boast of fruits and berries grown “without chemicals.” However, it is very important to maintain a healthy balance and sense of proportion. Breeders all over the world are struggling to create plant varieties that are resistant to certain diseases, but it has still not been possible to develop a species that is completely immune to harmful external influences, and this is hardly possible at all, since nature itself has conceived a scheme in which “everyone eats everyone.” " Therefore, we should expect that the fruits of a tree that are not affected by any pest will turn out to be inedible for humans, because you and I are also part of the animal world.

In addition, even if the manufacturer assures you that a given particular variety (for example, apple trees) is absolutely not affected by scab, you should treat such statements with a healthy dose of skepticism. And this does not mean that you are being deceived. The fact is that the development of certain diseases, as well as the spread of various pests, largely depends on specific external conditions that are constantly changing. In addition, insects and carriers of infectious diseases tend to mutate and adapt to new realities. It is not without reason that they say that you cannot use the same fungicide in the garden - the preparations must be constantly changed to ensure the best result.

The main enemies of fruit trees, against which spring spraying is directed, are caterpillars, butterflies, various beetles and aphids. So, if you do not spray the apple tree at the very beginning of the season, aphids begin to actively suck the juice from the greens and flowers, and also deform the tree bark, forming ugly growths on it, which then crack and turn into gaping wounds. As a result, the tree may stop developing and die. The same danger awaits pears, plums, apricots, cherry plums and other fruit trees.

The cockchafer loves to eat leaves and ovaries, and its favorite delicacy is the plum tree. While the adult is rampaging on the surface, its numerous larvae infect the root system of trees, which is especially dangerous for young seedlings. Timely spraying can help rid the garden of such a scourge.

Caterpillars and butterflies also happily eat the greens and fruits of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, so protecting such trees in the spring will help preserve the future harvest.

The above fully applies to the treatment of shrubs (black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.), since it is in the spring that the main measures should be taken to protect all plants from pests and diseases.

How to spray trees against diseases and pests in spring

Currently, there are many options for treating fruit trees against pests in the spring. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

• biological drugs;
• chemicals;
• “improvised” means, which are usually used by ardent opponents of the first two options, considering this method safer for health (and, of course, more economical).

Thus, the choice of a protective agent depends on the personal preferences of the gardener, but, in addition, on the condition of the garden (there are cases when the use of radical treatment methods is vital to protect the garden from imminent destruction).

Biological agents

Biological garden treatments are becoming increasingly popular as a direct alternative to chemicals.

Their effect on harmful insects and disease carriers is not exerted by an artificially synthesized toxic substance, but by living organisms (bacteria, bacterial viruses, antagonist fungi and even insects). Also, as an alternative, it is not the living creature itself that is used, but the toxin it secretes (biotoxin).

Such biological agents can be “introduced” on the site yourself, creating conditions that attract beneficial insects. This role can be performed by, say, mustard, buckwheat, dill and other honey plants planted in the country. However, to reliably protect the garden, such preventive measures are usually not enough, so scientists have developed numerous preparations based on the action of beneficial organisms. Let's look at some of them.

is an excellent antagonist of a number of pathogenic fungi (including pathogens of scab, various types of rot, late blight and other unpleasant diseases). The plant itself does not experience any harm from the action of Trichoderma; on the contrary, this fungus secretes substances that make the plant more resistant to the corresponding diseases. Treatment with the drug can be carried out from the moment the buds open and continue throughout the season.

"Planriz" is a soil bacteria that protects the garden from powdery mildew, root and basal rot, brown rust, septoria (often affecting raspberries), as well as from lepidopteran pests.

"Pentaphage" - a proven method of preventing diseases of fruit crops from bacterial canker and damage from holey spot of stone fruits. In addition, it is a good preventative against scab and powdery mildew.

"Phytodoctor" suppresses the development of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, in particular, protects fruit trees from late blight, bacterial cancer, root and fruit rot, mold, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, etc.

provides protection for the garden from fungal and bacterial diseases such as scab, wilt, late blight, root rot, powdery mildew, leaf rust and others.

"Mikosan" protects fruit trees from fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Its action is based on covering the plant organs with a protective film that prevents the pathogen from infecting them. The drug strengthens the tree’s immunity and helps it cope with the disease on its own. This product should be used separately from any other drugs, at the rate of 0.1 kg of substance per 4-8 liters of water.

"Gaupsin" has proven to be an effective remedy against aphids, codling moths, leaf rollers, cherry and plum flies. Among the diseases, the area of ​​influence of the drug is powdery mildew, late blight and others. The product also saturates the plant with the nitrogen it needs.

"Bitoxibacillin" It also protects the garden well from gnawing and lepidopteran pests (spider mites, cabbage moths, hawthorn, silkworms and others). Its action is based on disruption of the intestinal function of the insect, as a result of which the larva dies.

"Aktofit" destroys caterpillars, mites, whiteflies, aphids.

provides protection against various fungal diseases and, like gaupsin, releases nitrogen molecules from the air. A distinctive feature of the drug is its very fast action, compared to other biological means of protection (the active substance reaches the root system of the tree in less than half an hour after spraying).

"Healthy Garden" - another means for protecting trees from aphids, codling moths, powdery mildew and other pests and diseases.

The drug "Fitoverm" can help get rid of mites and codling moths, as well as silkworm caterpillars, leaf rollers, cutworms, moths, cabbage moths, etc. - "Lepidocide".

Biological agents have a number of undoubted advantages: they do not accumulate in the soil, do not harm the plant, and their consumption is significantly lower than that of other drugs. But there are also some disadvantages. Basically, such formulations take much longer to achieve a beneficial effect, while the chemical poison acts much faster.

Important! The use of biological drugs can be started only when the average daily temperature is at least +10° C. At this time, pathogenic bacteria and pests, which are the food of the organisms presented in the biological product, awaken and begin to develop. Otherwise, such biological weapons are powerless, so the earliest treatment of the garden can only be carried out using chemicals.

Chemicals

Treating the garden with chemicals (pesticides) is considered the most effective way to protect trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.

Did you know? The word pesticide comes from two Latin words: pestis (to infect) and caedere (to kill). The concept of “pesticides” includes the following groups of poisons: herbicides - against weeds, insecticides - against harmful insects, fungicides - against pathogens of fungal diseases, zoocides - against warm-blooded animals (for example, rodents). Most often, pesticides, as their name suggests, kill a particular pest, but there are also sterilants that cause infertility, as well as growth inhibitors that suppress the development of insects.

Modern pesticides act very quickly and retain their effect for a long time, but, unlike biological products, they can be addictive to pests.

As stated above, treating plants in early spring does not pose a risk to human or domestic animal health, since most pesticides completely decompose a certain time after application. Another advantage of chemicals is that they dissolve well in water and are generally sold in packages that are convenient for quick use.

At the same time, unlike biological products, the correct dosage of pesticides plays a decisive role: exceeding the recommended dose can lead to damage to the plant (burn, decreased pollen viability, destruction of pistils) and cause harm to the environment, while a “shortfall” provokes the production of harmful organisms are immune to the corresponding poison.

Important! When working with chemicals, it is only necessary to observe safety rules as much as possible, since the toxin can cause harm to humans and pets not only if ingested, but also through the skin and respiratory tract.

It is best to carry out spring treatment of trees and shrubs with special complex preparations, which are a mixture of a fungicide and an insecticide. In this case, the plant is simultaneously protected from both diseases and pests.

A possible replacement for such a complex preparation is ordinary urea. The first treatment of the garden in early spring is recommended to be carried out with a higher concentration of urea (urea), adding a little copper sulfate to the mixture. An additional advantage of this composition is its ability to briefly (for a week or two) slow down the awakening of the tree, and as a result, it is protected from unexpected frosts during flowering (this especially applies to plum trees).

After flowering, trees should be sprayed with a less concentrated solution of urea. This treatment will protect the garden from aphids, leaf rollers, apple flower beetles, and honey beetles.

An overdose of urea can lead to the formation of burns on the leaf plate, therefore, when diluting urea with water, you need to be extremely careful.

Spring spraying of fruit plants with copper sulfate is also popular. The procedure is carried out in early March, before the first buds appear, since this pesticide in the concentration required to achieve the effect causes a burn on young leaves. An exception is the situation when it is necessary to disinfect a wound on a tree.

Copper sulfate has a detrimental effect on the pathogens of curly hair, moniliosis, coccomycosis and clasterosporosis, phyllosticosis, scab and other diseases. It is recommended to treat plums, pears and apple trees with the drug.

Important! Copper sulfate is very poisonous! Therefore, it is necessary to prevent the drug or its residues from entering water bodies or other water supplies, as this can lead to the death of fish and animals and create serious health problems for people.

Most often, copper sulfate is mixed in equal parts with lime. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux mixture and protects the garden from most diseases and pests, while being relatively harmless.

These and other copper-containing drugs, such as (copper oxychloride), (copper oxychloride and oxadisil), etc. They protect trees and shrubs well from fungal diseases, but they should not be used more often than once a year. Therefore, if such spraying was carried out in the fall, you need to choose a different type of treatment in the spring.

Until the buds bloom on the trees, you can treat them with iron sulfate. In addition to protecting against pests, this drug has another function - it saturates plants with iron, which is necessary for their proper development, this is especially important for trees with iron-containing fruits, such as apple trees, pears and plums.

"Drug 30 V" When spraying in early spring, it is aimed at destroying pests that overwinter on the bark of fruit trees. First of all, these are leaf rollers, scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and false scale insects, moths, copperheads, and fruit mites. The drug forms a film on the bark that kills the larvae “hiding” inside and destroys insect eggs. The disadvantage of the pesticide is its very long decay period, and therefore the manufacturer warns against using it more than once every three years.

Some summer residents treat their gardens with diesel fuel, but this petroleum product has a very destructive effect on the ecosystem. Therefore, if you do not work at a car depot, where “shoe polish is just piled up,” use less aggressive chemicals in the garden. But if you still decide to take a risk, then the drug, firstly, can be used very early (even before the kidneys swell), and secondly, its concentration should be minimal, and to enhance the effect it is better not just to dilute it with water, but also to mix it with other chemicals. There is one exception: diesel fuel can really help protect an apple or plum tree from rotting, for example, in the event of a break.

Folk remedies

For opponents of chemistry, we can recommend a number of folk remedies used for spring garden treatment. Here, however, it should be noted that many plants that are destructive to pests, which form the basis for spraying, cannot physically be obtained in early spring. In this case, sometimes you can use dried reserves from last year, but if the “recipe” requires the presence of fresh grass, it can be used at later stages, and in early spring the trees can be protected with the help of chemicals. Actually, this approach looks quite logical: until the bud has blossomed, we use protection that is more “heavy” and dangerous for the tree itself, and after the leaves open, flower and the ovaries appear, we use the “light version” as a “control shot.”

To spray the garden, pest-intolerant plants such as: field sow thistle (it is recommended to take freshly picked), capsicum (you can take dried), walnut (dry leaves), sweet and bitter nightshade (you need fresh tops of stems with leaves, buds and flowers), tansy (dried inflorescences), wormwood (you can take dried), chamomile, chamomile, Dolmatian, Caucasian (you can take dried), sarsazan (you can take dried shoots), tomato tops (you can use dried or take from last year’s compost), garlic (crushed cloves), pine needles, bird cherry (you can take dry branches with leaves), Sophora leaf-tailed or thick-fruited (dried greens collected during the flowering period), tobacco (shag) and many others.

The principle of preparing the solution is approximately the same: the raw materials are crushed, filled with water, infused and filtered. The proportions, if desired, can be seen online. In addition to herbal preparations, spraying is also carried out with a saline solution or a solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride (the latter helps get rid of aphids and leaf-eating caterpillars).

Aphids and copperheads are also driven out by fumigating fruit trees with tobacco dust (it is poured onto straw, which is set on fire in the garden).

In general, we can say that folk remedies for garden treatment are certainly not as harmful to the environment as pesticides (although some concentrates can easily burn wood), but their effectiveness is disproportionately lower.

Therefore, when choosing one or another method of protection, you should take into account a lot of factors: from the weather to the condition of your garden, the age of the trees, the prevalence in the region and the infestation of a particular area by this or that pest, etc. It is also important to choose the right specific time when exactly you are going to treat fruit trees for pests: in early spring, at the beginning of flowering or after it.

When is it necessary to treat the garden against diseases and pests?

The timing of treating fruit trees against pests in the spring, as we have already understood, can be different. Some drugs should be used as early as possible, due to their particular aggressiveness, others can be used even during flowering and after the formation of the ovaries.

In any case, proper garden cultivation in the spring includes four stages:

Only such comprehensive work will allow us to protect the garden as much as possible, because if in early spring we first destroy microorganisms, then in April the main goal of spraying is to protect the buds from fungal diseases, scab, powdery mildew, leaf roller, weevils, apple blossom beetle and other beetles, and in May - protect the ovaries from later pests.

Features of garden processing in early spring

The very first treatment of the garden is considered perhaps the most important. It is better to destroy pests and disease carriers that have overwintered in the bark and tree trunk soil preventively, before they have yet recovered from hibernation and begun their dirty work.

The snow melted, the temperature rose above zero, it turned out to be a windless day - and off to work!

We already know what to spray trees in the spring before the buds open: we use pesticides, the aggressiveness of which is not yet terrible for the tree, but is deadly for pests.

For the first spraying we use Bordeaux mixture in a concentration of up to 3%. You can buy a ready-made kit with correctly selected components, or you can make the preparation yourself by mixing 0.45 kg of lime and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate in a bucket of water (10 l).

You can also spray the trees with Nitrophen or a mixture of urea and copper sulfate (0.7 kg and 0.05 kg, respectively, per bucket of water). Instead of urea, some gardeners use nitrogen or potassium fertilizers, but not chlorine-containing ones. In any case, the fertilizer should be used immediately after dilution, otherwise it will lose all its effectiveness.

Trees and shrubs should be treated completely - from the trunk (especially in places of cracks) and the trunk circle to the tips of the branches. Before starting spraying, be sure to thoroughly clean the trunk with a brush.

In addition, you need to keep in mind that different plants do not wake up after winter at the same time, so if you delay the first treatment, especially early trees and shrubs can be burned. So, if apple, pear and plum trees are sprayed in mid-March, then, say, the growing season of black currants can begin earlier. Accordingly, it is better to divide the procedure into several stages than to try to do it in one day and end up rinsing young kidneys with poison.

Spraying trees and bushes before flowering

As was said, before flowering begins, after the buds swell, and also directly at the buds (before they bloom), the garden is re-treated. If spraying is carried out with pesticides, you need to use a weaker concentration (for example, if during the first treatment we diluted the Bordeaux mixture to a 3% solution, now we use a 1% solution).

However, it is preferable at this stage to use more modern drugs that can be purchased in specialized stores. For example, by mixing the fungicide "Horus" and the insecticide "Aktar", you will simultaneously protect the garden from fungal diseases and insect pests. The same mixture can be reapplied after the trees bloom. Such drugs as “Fufanon”, “Decis”, etc. have proven themselves well.

The nuances of garden processing during the flowering period

The question “Is it possible to spray trees during flowering?” is quite controversial. Many gardeners categorically do not recommend doing this, since it can damage the inflorescences and disrupt the entire subsequent process of fruit setting.

In general, there is no doubt that during the flowering period you should definitely not use strong pesticides, which can cause harm not only to the flowers, but also to the bees that are actively “working” in the blooming garden.

If for one reason or another you did not have time to cultivate the garden before the flowers appeared, then it is still better later than never. Treating the garden during this period will protect the tree from aphids, mites, leaf rollers, copperheads, sawflies and other pests, as well as from many insidious diseases. You can use phosphorus-containing organic preparations, for example, Fufanon or Actellik. In warmer times, use “Fitoverm”, “Akarin”, “Iskra Bio”, “Entobacterin” and other biological preparations, because we remember that they are safe for wood, but are deadly for pathogens and harmful insects.

Treatment of trees and shrubs after flowering

Spraying fruit trees and shrubs after flowering is the final stage of spring protection of the garden from diseases and pests . Its main goal is to destroy the caterpillars of the leaf roller, codling moth, weevils, moths, aphids, mites and prevent possible garden diseases.

The treatment should be carried out no later than three weeks after the trees and shrubs finish flowering.

There are a lot of modern preparations for treating the garden during this period, so there should not be any problems with choosing the most suitable one. But what you definitely shouldn’t spray on trees after flowering is pesticides in high concentrations. It is better at this stage to give preference to biological products or more gentle chemical agents. For May spraying of fruit trees, for example, you can use the following preparations: “Brunka”, “Blue Bordeaux”, “Fital”, “Delan”, “Saprol”, “Fury”, “Fastak”, “Talstar”, “Fufanon”, "Decis", "Karate", "Confidor", "Uppercut", "Koragen".

The fungicide "Skor", recommended for use at this stage, is also effective and low-toxic. The choice depends on many factors, in particular, each drug is aimed at combating certain pests, which, in turn, have their own preferences among fruit trees. Therefore, read the instructions and select the optimal mixture.

So, for example, for apricot the greatest danger is hole spotting and monilial burn; pests include aphids, leaf rollers, and moths.

The peach, when flowering, is often affected by leaf curl and clasterosporium blight, and is also often attacked by the codling moth. Plum trees are susceptible to moniliosis, clasterosporiosis, and polystigmosis; among insects, their main enemies are mites, aphids, leaf rollers, and codling moths. After flowering, cherry and cherry orchards can be affected by clasterosporiasis and coccomycosis. Cherry flies love to lay eggs under the skin of fruits at the moment they set; aphids and leaf rollers also infect these trees.

Apple and pear trees suffer from scab and powdery mildew; the most dangerous pests for them are the codling moth, mites, aphids, and sawflies.

Important! At this stage, it is better to spray the garden in the evening: the caterpillars, hidden in the foliage, come out at night to feast on the ovaries and green mass, on which the poison is already waiting for them. If the drug has worked, in the morning you will be able to observe a mass phenomenon: a huge number of dead caterpillars hanging from branches on thin cobwebs.

How to properly treat trees and shrubs against diseases and pests

By and large, you can act as you wish, but for the safety (of yourself and others), as well as to achieve maximum effect, it is better to follow certain rules and recommendations.

You need to start spraying from the crown, gradually moving down. The final stage is processing the tree trunk circle (it is very important not to forget this area). With the exception of the last spraying, which is carried out during the period of active “work” of the caterpillars, it is better to treat trees in the early morning.

To carry out the procedure, you need to choose a windless, dry day. Check the weather forecast and if rain is expected in the next 24 hours, postpone the procedure for several days. With minimal humidity, the active substance will be absorbed faster and cause less damage to the plant. An exception may be some biological products, which, on the contrary, require moisture, so read the instructions before using them. It is also important to correctly calculate the required amount of the drug, since its reuse after some time is absolutely unacceptable: you need to dilute exactly as much as is needed for today's processing. We should proceed from the following calculations: an adult tree “uses” approximately 5-6 liters of solution, and shrubs and young trees require 0.5 to 1.5 liters, depending on their size.

Finally, to make your work convenient, you shouldn’t put a broom in a bucket and spray it on the tree - it’s better to buy a modern sprayer. Today, manufacturers offer a wide selection of models that will allow you to choose the best option depending on the size of your garden (they differ both in volume and power, and, accordingly, in price). Low-growing trees and young seedlings can be treated with an ordinary plastic sprayer, and for large gardens it may be worth purchasing an expensive but very reliable electric pump.

Don't forget about personal safety precautions. You need to clearly understand how toxic the drug you are working with is and, depending on this, adjust your behavior. In any case, the face should be covered with a respirator or gauze bandage, the hair should be covered with a scarf or bandana, and the eyes should be protected with goggles. Wear gloves and in general it is better not to leave any exposed skin. Keep household members (especially children) and pets away.

Spring cultivation of the garden is a difficult process that requires considerable labor and financial costs, as well as a fairly deep knowledge of agricultural technology. And yet you can’t do without it, of course, if you count on the long life of the trees or shrubs you plant and want to harvest a decent harvest from them every year.

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The garden is gradually waking up after a long winter hibernation, and the buds are about to begin to bloom. Now, in spring, fruit trees and shrubs especially need the protection and attention of the gardener. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring, how to help our favorite “growers” ​​in order to cure diseases, protect against pests and unfavorable climatic conditions, we’ll figure it out together with the experienced gardeners of our portal, who have accumulated volumes of useful material on this topic over the years of gardening.

In this article we will look at:

1. How to prepare a spring garden spray at home;
2. Calendar of garden treatments in early spring in spring. When to carry out the first treatment;
3. How to prepare Bordeaux mixture;
4. How to cope with fungal diseases;

From a member of our portal Eleni He has three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and “no chemicals” are used at all. The question of what to spray fruit trees and shrubs with in the spring does not arise in this family: treating the garden against diseases and pests is done only with safe home remedies.

Home remedies for spraying fruit trees and shrubs:

1. Garlic infusion;
2. Infusion of onion peel.
   Green soap is added to these infusions for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted in 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder and filled with water. The mixture is infused for a day, stirring from time to time, 2 tablespoons of green soap are added, and diluted in 10 liters of water.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but just boiling water from a just boiled kettle), which is carried out even before the buds open. Try starting treatments with this - surprisingly, boiling water turns out to be no less effective than special substances.

HelgaFORUMHOUSE user

This is an old method of destroying the clutches of bud mites and the beginnings of powdery mildew.

How can we help our beloved “growing plants”, how can we treat them in order to cure diseases, protect them from pests and unfavorable climatic conditions? Let's see what experienced gardeners on our portal are doing.

1. How to prepare a spring garden spray at home.
2. Calendar of treatments for fruit plants in spring.
3. How to prepare Bordeaux mixture.
4. How to deal with mushroom plants.
5. Why you can’t refuse spring garden treatments.

Treatment with home remedies

From a member of our portal Eleni He has three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and “no chemicals” are used at all. In early spring, he sprays all his garden bushes and trees with infusions of garlic and onion peels, to which he adds green soap for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted with 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder and filled with water. The mixture is infused for a day, stirring from time to time, adding 2 tablespoons of green soap.

Both of these infusions are used for spring spraying of all fruit crops.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but just boiling water from a just boiled kettle), which is carried out even before the buds open.

Almost all gardeners know that spraying trees in the spring is a useful thing. But what exactly does garden cultivation do? What pests and diseases does spraying help combat? What and when to spray trees in April and May? How to make pest control treatment safe for beneficial insects? Learn more about spring garden protection.

Pest control: where they spend the winter and what they eat

There are a great many insect pests—apple trees and black currants alone have more than 200 of them. But you only need to fight those that actually cause significant damage. Based on their feeding method and the structure of their oral apparatus, pests are divided into two main groups: leaf-sucking and leaf-gnawing.

TO leaf-sucking include aphids, copperheads, bugs, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, as well as mites, which are not insects. These pests pierce the leaf plate or bark and suck out the juice through the puncture. Therefore, they cannot be destroyed except by contact; the drug must destroy the integument of the body, as a result of which the pests die, or must cause paralysis of the respiratory systems.

But in the arsenal of modern means of protection, new generation drugs have appeared that penetrate the cell sap of the plant and become destructive to leaf-sucking pests, but do not accumulate in the plant itself, since after 2-3 weeks they completely decompose into harmless elements.

One of these drugs is the chemical poison “Phosbecid”. Plants treated with it cannot be eaten for 20 days. But there are also biological products “Iskra-bio” (“Agravertin”) and “Fitoverm”, after treatment with which fruits and greens can be eaten after 48 hours.

TO leaf-chewing insects include beetles and their larvae, butterfly caterpillars. In addition to insects, there are also mollusks: slugs, snails, crustaceans. All of them feed directly on leaves, so they can easily be poisoned through the gastrointestinal tract - you just need to moisten the aerial part of the host plant with a poisonous drug.

As a rule, everything sucking insects overwinter on the branches of bushes and trees, located near the kidneys. And these insects are most vulnerable before the start of sap flow, when the average daily temperature is close to zero, since at this moment their chitinous covers begin to collapse to allow the larvae to get out of them. There is another moment when pests are vulnerable - late autumn, since at this time their chitinous covers have not yet become stronger.

The rest overwinter partly in the forks of branches or in crevices of the bark, but mostly - under a layer of foliage or in the top layer of soil right under the plantings, and come to the surface only when a green cone of leaves appears, when the bud scales move apart, that is, after the start of sap flow. Most of these insects first damage these opening young leaves, and then move into the buds at the moment of their protrusion (separation), therefore, they must be fought precisely at these moments.

But in no case should you treat the garden with chemicals at the time of flowering, since at this time beneficial insects emerge from the ground. And their destruction can lead to an ecological imbalance in the area, because their numbers are restored much more slowly than the number of insect pests.

There is also a whole group of pests, overwintering inside plants: gall midges, glass beetle, currant bud, raspberry fly larvae. They are especially difficult to deal with because they are practically impossible to reach using chemical means. All that remains is to manually collect, cut out currant and raspberry stems with thickened galls, drying and drooping blackcurrant stems, after which all this must be immediately burned before the pests come out and spread throughout the garden.

First pest control treatment

This is spraying trees and bushes in early spring before sap flow begins, at the end of March - very beginning of April. Insect larvae and eggs die from contact with the drug. Therefore, you need to very carefully spray the entire tree (the entire bush) along all the branches and around the trunk in order to moisten the pests. When processing a garden, at least 10 liters of solution are consumed per mature tree, 5-6 liters per young tree, and at least 1.5-2 liters per bush.

It is best to use for spraying a concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer listed below (per 10 liters of water):

500-600 g nitroammophoska,
or 600-700 g of azofoska,
or 400 g of potassium chloride,
or 500 g of potassium carbonate,
or 600-700 g of urea
or just 1 kg of table salt.

It is imperative to thoroughly spray the ends of the branches on which aphid eggs are laid, the skeletal branches in the forks of which some of the pests overwinter, and the soil in the tree trunk circles. With such spraying, salt metabolism in the pest cells is disrupted, which causes their death.

If such treatment is not done in the spring, then at the very beginning of sap flow insect pests will be born from eggs and larvae, but at this time our helpers - beneficial insects that feed on pests - are still sleeping and will come to the surface only during flowering, so protect There is no one to keep the garden free from pests except us.

Second garden treatment

If you did not treat the garden in early spring and did not destroy the nests of pests, then a second treatment will be required. It is often recommended to use one of the following drugs: “Inta-vir”, “Decis”, “Karate”, “Fury”, karbofos or its analogue “Fufanon”.

The first four drugs are highly toxic, therefore very effective, but at the same time they kill beneficial insects, bees and earthworms, since they decompose for about three weeks and destroy beneficial insects emerging from their shelters. And they absolutely cannot be used from the moment of flowering not only of the garden, but also of the coltsfoot, since at this time bumblebees appear and worms crawl out.

Karbofos and Fufanon are preferable to these drugs, primarily because they quickly, within 5-7 days, decompose even before beneficial insects appear, but are less effective, so they should not be used if there are a large number of pests.

All of these drugs kill pests by entering their intestines along with food and causing poisoning. Some pests will begin to feed at the moment of bud opening (green cone), while others will begin to feed at the moment of budding (separation and protrusion of buds). It is at these moments that you need to have time to cultivate the garden.

At this time there are already early green crops. When processing the garden, they must be covered with film.

Instead of the chemicals described above, you can use the same mineral fertilizers, but only their concentration should be 7-10 times lower, otherwise you can cause a severe burn to the opening buds and buds. We can recommend spraying a green cone with a 0.7% urea solution - this is 70 g (3 tablespoons) of urea per 10 liters of water.

Spraying infusions and decoctions of tobacco dust, citrus peels, onion peels or dry tansy, marigold seeds, garlic, and pine needles are effective.

1. Tobacco dust. To prepare the solution, 400 g of tobacco dust is infused in 10 liters of water for 24 hours, then boiled for half an hour, then cooled and filtered. To spray, for every 10 liters of water you need to take 100 g of solution, adding 40 g of soap to it for better adhesion.
2. Onion peel. Pour half a bucket of onion peel into a bucket of hot water, cover, leave for two days, strain and spray.
3. Dry tansy. Pour 1 kg of tansy collected during flowering and dried into 10 liters of water and boil over low heat for 15 minutes, cool, strain. To spray, take 100 g of solution for every 10 liters of water, add 40 g of soap and spray.
4. Garlic infusion. Chop 100 g of garlic, pour in 10 liters of water for a day, strain and spray.
5. Infusion of pine needles. Pour 2.5 kg of needles of any coniferous species into 10 liters of water, stirring from time to time, leave for a week, strain, add another 20 liters of water and spray.
6. Infusion of citrus peels. Soak 1 kg of citrus peels, pass through a meat grinder, pour in 3 liters of water, close tightly and leave for 5 days in the dark, strain, squeeze, bottle, seal. Use 100 g of solution per 10 liters of water as needed.

Aim to get on the underside of the opened leaves, as pests tend to be found there.

It is useful to place trapping belts made of corrugated cardboard on apple and pear trees, into which the caterpillars crawl, moving up the trunk. The top edge of the cardboard must be bent back like a roof; caterpillars cannot crawl over such an edge. Hunting belts are changed a couple of times a season and burned along with the pests lurking there.

The hunting belt can be made from plastic film. The lower edge is tied around the trunk like a skirt, and the upper edge is folded back like an umbrella. You can leave this belt on all summer long. Pests will not be able to crawl over the folded top edge.

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One of the main requirements for caring for fruit trees is seasonal processing. This treatment is done by any summer resident who wants to grow a beautiful garden with a significant yield. Spraying trees in the spring with the necessary preparations will protect the garden from the scourge of pests and pathogenic microorganisms.

The main objective of such treatment is to protect against the appearance of butterflies, aphids, caterpillars and all kinds of beetles, and also to minimize the possibility of infectious, viral and fungal diseases.

• For example, aphids cause significant damage to fruit trees such as pear, plum, apple, apricot and cherry plum. This pest attacks the bark of a tree, forming nodules on its surface, which crack over time, turning into sores. Aphids infect tree leaves, which first curl and then dry out. The affected areas stop growing over time and dry out.
• The main enemy of plums, cherries and cherries is the cockchafer, or rather its larvae, which live in the ground for three years. This pest can destroy entire gardens of young trees by destroying their root system. The adult beetles fly in May, and they also destroy young leaves and fruit ovaries. Spraying trees in the spring makes their leaves unattractive to beetles.
• Flower beetles are found everywhere. With the warmth, weevils crawl out of the soil where they hibernated and head towards the opening flowers, where they dine on the stamens and pistils. Measures to combat them are to dig up tree trunk circles in late autumn (or cover them with a thick layer of hay, sawdust, straw, through which the beetles will not be able to get out).
• Sawflies and moths. These terrible insects can make the entire harvest of plums, peaches, apples, pears, and nectarines simply inedible. Methods of control - only one spray.

Chemical treatment of the above-ground parts of fruit trees allows you to preserve not only the foliage, but also the ripe fruits, which means getting a tasty and healthy harvest.

Irrigation of the orchard with chemicals must be carried out on time. Untimely and incorrect treatment of plants will not give any effect.

When and how many times to spray?

Spraying of fruit trees is done more than once, from early spring to late autumn. Gardeners, taking into account their enormous experience, have developed a special schedule for irrigating the orchard. It describes in detail what and when to irrigate trees throughout the season.

The first spraying of fruit trees against pests is done in early spring. Many novice gardeners wonder under what weather conditions this procedure can be carried out. So, experts advise doing the first spraying immediately after the snow melts, at a temperature of about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Treatment of fruit trees is usually carried out in the second half of March. Just at this time, the process of bud enlargement begins in plants. During spraying, as well as during the process of pruning trees, the gardener must pay special attention to cracks that may contain harmful insects. Before spraying trees, they need to be prepared for this. The trees are carefully cleaned with a brush, then a freshly prepared solution is applied. The solution is used on the day it is prepared, otherwise it will become useless. It will not remove pests, but the trees may be seriously burned.

Time	Works	Drug (Optional)
Early spring	Preventive spraying against pests overwintering on trees	Diesel fuel (optional)
Before the buds open	Spraying against scab, moniliosis, clusterisporosis, coccomycosis and a number of other fungal diseases. Treatment with insecticides against emerging pests.	Bordeaux mixture, Urea. Karbafos, And broad spectrum insecticides
During flowering	Treatment to increase immunity to fungal diseases. Searching against bream and weevils	Bordeaux liquid, Anabasine, DDT Powder, Carbaphos.
After flowering	Prevention from putrefactive diseases. Pest Control	Broad-spectrum combination mixtures

Treatment of the garden in March is aimed at combating insects that infect trees by getting out of the soil.

The next spraying is carried out in April. The purpose of this spraying is to protect the flower buds on the trees from various fungal diseases and the stag beetle.

May processing is carried out in order to prevent the appearance of harmful insects and diseases. This procedure is carried out after the trees bloom.

The processing of the garden does not end there; with the onset of autumn, additional spraying follows. This is a kind of preparation of fruit trees for winter. As soon as the trees lose their leaves, in October-November, it’s time to start processing them. In this case, it is recommended to use chemicals. If, however, spraying is carried out without their use, then the first autumn treatment can be carried out immediately after harvesting - in September.

How to prepare trees for spraying?

Trees over 6 years old are cleaned of old bark and lichens with a brush. Growths and other accumulations on the trunk of trees do not in any way affect their general condition. But it is worth noting that it is precisely in these places that pathogenic microorganisms most often like to gather. Immediately after cleaning, spraying is carried out.

The final processing of fruit plantings and shrubs is carried out after harvesting and falling leaves. The area is completely cleared of weeds and leaves. The latest spraying of the garden is carried out after the first frost.

What and from what diseases should I spray trees in the spring?

There are several effective preparations that gardeners use when treating fruit trees and shrubs. Today there are a lot of substances for spring and autumn treatment of orchards. The most popular means used by many gardeners over the years:

• Urea or urea.

It is impossible to give preference to any one of the above-mentioned remedies, because each of them is aimed at eliminating a specific disease or pest. One drug can only be used in the spring, the other only in the fall. Experienced gardeners advise stopping spraying fruit trees and shrubs with chemicals 3-4 weeks before harvest.

Culture	Pest	Time of processing
Grape	Mildu
Cherry and Cherry	Clusterosporiasis, Monoliosis, Bacterial cancer	3% solution until buds open,
Apricot	Clusterosporiasis, Monoliosis	3% solution until buds open, 1% solution - during the growing season
Potato	Late blight,	1% solution - during the growing season
Apple tree	Scab, Monoliosis, Bacterial cancer	3% solution until buds open, 1% solution - during the growing season
Tomatoes	Late blight, Black bacterial spot, Alternaria	1% solution - during the growing season
Onion	Downy mildew, Rust, Rot	1% solution - during the growing season
Cucumber	Downy mildew, Anthracnose, Ascochyta blight, Olive spot, Bacteriosis	1% solution - during the growing season
Peaches	Leaf curl, Bacterial canker	3% solution until buds open,

Treatment of the garden with iron sulfate is carried out twice during the entire season. The first spraying is carried out during the period of foliage formation, and the second - when the trees are preparing for wintering. This drug has a double effect. It enriches shrubs and trees with iron, and is also an effective protection against all kinds of pests and diseases. The lack of iron in fruit trees is expressed in a trivial way - low yield and underdeveloped fruits. Spraying of fruit plantings with iron-based vitriol is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, for preventive purposes, and also to exterminate lichen, moss, cytosporosis, black cancer and septosporosis.

Treatment of the garden with copper sulfate is carried out according to the same scheme as with the previous preparation - twice a season. The first treatment is carried out in early spring, even before the appearance of young buds. This substance must be handled with care, since copper sulfate, even the weakest concentration, can burn young foliage on trees. This is an excellent disinfectant that heals wounds on the trunk of trees and shrubs. This fungicide is sprayed on trees such as pear, plum and apple trees, both in autumn and spring. Copper sulfate protects orchards from moniliosis, scab, cluster blight and curl.

For one young tree, up to 6 years old, apply 2 liters of freshly prepared solution. For adult specimens, use 10 liters of liquid. The garden is processed in the morning or evening, when there is no wind, at a temperature of 10 to 25 degrees. On hot days, it is advisable to avoid using this drug, as it is quite aggressive and can harm both animals and people. The solution is prepared in a place remote from water bodies.

Carbamide (urea) is considered an equally effective drug against pests. The first care of orchards in early spring begins with spraying them with this particular preparation. This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering. The second spraying with this substance is carried out before wintering. Urea is intended to save the crop from the invasion of various pests. A properly made solution allows you to achieve the desired effect.

During the first spraying, urea of ​​increased concentration is used with the addition of a small dose of copper sulfate. This remedy is effective not only against a variety of pests, but also allows you to slow down the growing season of some fruit trees by 2-3 weeks. This helps preserve the color on the trees during the last frost.

7 days after flowering, fruit plantings are sprayed with a weaker solution of urea: 50 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water. This protects the trees from leaf rollers, aphids, caterpillars, copperheads and flower beetles.

The second treatment is carried out in the fall, when half of the trees are bare of leaves. In this case, a solution of increased concentration is used. Spraying is also carried out after the leaves have completely fallen. In this case, spraying is performed with a urea solution with an 8-10% concentration. Not only trees, but also the soil around them are subject to this treatment. This substance has a dual effect - it disinfects plantings and also nourishes the soil. Here it is extremely important to choose the right concentration so as not to harm the trees or reduce their resistance to cold.

Just like other drugs, it is used twice - in autumn and spring. This petroleum product must be used with extreme caution, as it can cause burns to trees and shrubs, as a result of which they die. Therefore, spraying with diesel fuel is carried out strictly before the formation of buds and leaves on the trees in the spring. The second spraying is carried out only after the trees have completely lost their leaves.

This substance is strictly prohibited from being used in its pure form. It is diluted with water or other liquid, thereby reducing the concentration and destructive effect. A diluted solution of diesel fuel is extremely effective in combating rot.

It is used in early spring and late autumn. The finished solution consists of 200 g of the substance, diluted with 1 bucket of water. Treatment with this drug destroys many pests that have remained on the trunk and branches since the fall. This can be false scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects, leaf rollers and moths, etc. Preparation 30B is often used to control insects in the summer. This substance is considered harmless. When applied, it forms a thin film on the tree cover, which prevents the supply of oxygen and moisture to pests at the stage of eggs and larvae. Such conditions ultimately lead to the death of insects.

Despite the safety of this drug, experienced gardeners use it no more than once every three years.

Today, two types of devices for spraying orchards are produced - manual or mechanical. This is a necessary thing for the correct and effective procedure. It improves spray quality and protects the gardener from contact with the chemical. Each device is equipped with a pump. To work with drugs in powder form, there are devices with air supply.

Mechanical devices are characterized by convenience and high cost. The pumping principle for manual and mechanical devices is also different. Each model has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, here you should proceed from the needs and capabilities when purchasing this item.

We wish you success and good harvests!

I was not the only one who saw apple trees completely entangled at the beginning of summer. cobwebs. AND caterpillars, hanging down like parachutists landing.

And we often hear: "Guard! What to do? Half the apple tree was devoured". Some things can be saved. But sometimes it’s too late.

And for you it is necessary that there was a harvest, And don't eat pesticide kit. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of when to treat apple trees for pests so that this processing is as harmless and effective as possible.

I have friends who want to process it once and solve everything.

Experienced gardeners believe that it is ideal if you make about 15 treatments various drugs. And even after this, the damage will be within 10-15 % . This means you need to select the minimum number of necessary treatments.

And here residents of the southern regions and forest-steppe have to carry out treatments more often for the prevention and destruction of pests. Or look for stronger drugs.

Pests overwinter better, reproduce more, get used to the drugs (last year it was effective, but this year, as I ironically, it’s already like feeding). Already One drug is not enough, but a tank mixture is needed.

Since processing must be done practically all year round, we need a systematic approach

Before you fight a pest, you need to know it.

• What does the pest like and what does he hate?
• When does it appear and how does it hibernate?
• When, how much and how best to present it to him, for breakfast or dinner.

There are at least 30 different types of pests who want to eat more than just an apple. But also roots, bark, and leaves. Such diversity. And below we will dwell in more detail on their characteristics.

Watch the video on how, when and why to spray fruit trees in the garden:

Drugs

A garden without chemicals is ideal. A biological agents are a good way. And “good” bacteria and viruses help, destroying harmful insects and pathogens of tree diseases.

But we use more often chemical:

• Faster and longer acting;
• Easier to prepare;
• More accessible.

And here They are more dangerous for health:

• Dosage;
• Compliance with safety measures.

But don't forget about folk remedies!

Timing by growth phases

The timing of orchard treatment depends entirely on the growth phase of the apple tree, the presence of a pest and weather conditions.

1. From February to March:
   • dormant bud: treatment of pests that have overwintered in the bark, tree trunks, and soil.
2. From April to May:
   • green cone (bud break period);
   • pink bud - before flowering;
   • falling of flower petals.
3. End of May – June— ovary formation, fruit growth (1-2 treatments);
4. From June to July— fruit growth (2-3 treatments);
5. Aug. Sept— fruit ripening (1-2 treatments as necessary);
6. October November– after harvesting and falling leaves;
7. Winter- protection from rodents.

ADVICE! The number of treatments depends on the age of the garden and each tree:

• 5-7 years - 7-8 treatments;
• 8-15 years – 8-9 treatments;
• Over 15 years - 10 treatments.

Apple tree spraying calendar in spring

Many people don't want to think. And so, have a piece of paper on hand that says what and on what day (date). You can write. But they will be approximate and depend on the terrain and the weather (Kuban is not the Moscow region).

The main thing is:

• State of tree growth;
• Presence of a specific pest.

First spraying

Before charging the sprayer, remember:

• Have you done any trimming?
• Have the trunks been cleared of damaged and exfoliated bark and lichen?

And carry out the first spraying when the buds are dormant and the average temperature is about 5 degrees Celsius.

Options and more:

• Preparation 30B, copper sulfate;
• DNOC;
• Hom and Fufanon.

During the growing season (April-May)

When the kidneys swell (the period of the so-called green cone):

• Aktara or Enzhio with Horus;
• Copper sulfate;
• Urea;
• Nitrophen.

Before flowering (the so-called pink bud):

• Angio with Horus and Tiovit Jet;
• Bordeaux mixture.

Attention!

• Spray with complex preparations or tank mixtures (well-compatible preparations);
• Do not treat apple trees during flowering.

When the leaves turn yellow

Try it determine the cause and act without delay:

• – water;
• Lack of fertilizers (nitrogen) and microfertilizers – ;
• The appearance of pests or diseases - treat with insecticides and fungicides;
• And it’s even better if you do everything together.

After flowering

Spray in May:

• From caterpillars of codling moths and leaf rollers;
• Weevils;
• Sawflies;
• Ticks.

To prevent diseases:

• Angio and Horus;
• Karbofos;
• Benzophosphate;
• Chlorophos.

After 2-3 weeks, carry out another treatment. Spray apple trees with ovaries 7-10 days after the flower petals fall.

Is it possible to spray when there are already fruits?

For clarity:

• During the formation of the ovary (2nd and 3rd decade of May) appears butterfly and lays eggs, and its caterpillars appear in late May - early June:
  • Skor (Topaz);
  • Lufox (Match).
• Appears at the end of June - beginning of July second generation of codling moth caterpillars;
• And 2-3 more treatments.

Spraying an apple tree with fruits.

Remember! Treatment is stopped 20 days before fruit ripeness.

Treatment in autumn

Meaning:

• Disease prevention;
• Destroy the pest in the soil, bark, and branches.

Not only spraying, but a whole range of activities:

• Collecting leaves and moths from under trees;
• Digging tree trunks and soil;
• Sanitary pruning;

When you need to spray apple trees against pests:

• After harvest and leaves fall;
• In calm weather and without rain:
  • Urea (urea);
  • Fufanon;
  • Inkstone.

Timing of spraying with different preparations

A few words about the drugs:

• Insecticide– against harmful insects;
• Fungicide– against all diseases;
• Contact:
  • fell on a pest and he is dead, and quickly;
  • Lasts about a week, rain washes off immediately.
• System (complex):
  • lasts for about two weeks;
  • penetrate into the wood tissue;
  • act on larvae and eggs.

Fungicides

Iron sulfate (ferrous sulfate)

• For the prevention, treatment and fight against scab, lichens, rot, moss;
• Provides much-needed iron for the growth of the apple tree and tree trunks;
• Pest control (destruction of laid eggs).

Use a 3-5% solution:

• Early before buds open;
• Late autumn as the leaves fall.

Be careful with deadlines! May burn budding buds and leaves.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate)

• Use for prevention and control fungal diseases(scab, black cancer, fruit rot, moniliosis);
• Disinfects wounds on trees due to debris and cutting;
• Disinfects the soil.

Apply in the spring before buds open, after flowering and in the fall.

Bordeaux mixture (a mixture of lime and copper sulfate)

• For prevention and treatment fungal diseases:
  • you can prepare either 1% or 3%;
  • Use immediately after preparation (flakes may form).
• Carry out preventive treatments every 10-12 days;
• Effective with 2-3 treatments.

A small inconvenience! Compliance with the cooking technology is required, and additional time is required.

From scab with urea (it's urea)

Apply:

• For prevention and treatment from scab, spotting;
• Against aphids, apple blossom beetle, weevil, copperhead;
• Increases productivity thanks to nitrogen.

• If there is a strong concentration of pests, increase the concentration to 7%;
• Application: early spring and late autumn.

Horus

• Very in demand;
• Universal:
  • many diseases do not tolerate it;
  • even improves the quality of fruits and their preservation.
• Reliable:
  • It works within a few hours and at low temperatures.

Apply:

• Before flowering.
• After flowering.
• 2 weeks before fruit ripeness.

Boric acid

The absence (lack) of boron is reflected on the leaves ( wrinkle), fruits ( necrosis).

Use for:

• Increased yield (more ovaries);
• Increasing resistance (resistance) to diseases and weather conditions;
• For spraying leaves.

Boron is found in boron fertilizers (boric superphosphate, boric acid).

Fitosporin

• For prevention powdery mildew, wilt, scab and other fungal diseases;
• Soak roots and seeds;
• Apply once every two weeks during the growing season.

Preparation prestige (insecticide-fungicide)

It is also called a disinfectant:

• Against g gnawing and sucking pests, cockchafer larvae, mole crickets;
• From illnesses.

May beetle larva.

In the garden and for apple trees it is valuable when planting seedlings:

• Tuck into the planting hole when planting;
• Water after planting.

Attention! After 40 days it decomposes completely and is then no longer dangerous.

Hom

• Prevention scab and moniliosis;
• Contains copper;
• Low toxicity to bees;
• Treat during the growing season:
  • no more than 4 treatments;
  • 20 days before maturity.

Insecticides

Fufanon

Use against:

• Ticks;
• Codling moths;
• Leafrollers;
• Sawfly;
• Weevil;
• Shchitovok;
• Medyanitsa and others.

Process:

• IN growing season;
• No more than 2 treatments in 20 days;
• 20 days before fruit ripeness.

Fitoverm

Pests:

• codling moth;
• Leaf roller;
• Mite.

Apply during fruit growth: one or two treatments.

Karbofos

Pests:

• Weevils;
• Ticks;
• Shchitovka;
• codling moth;
• Leaf roller.

Attention!

• Potent(use for severe lesions);
• Dangerous for bees.

Intavir

Pests:

• Codling moths;
• Leafrollers;
• Flower beetle;

Apply:

• After flowering(7-10 days after the start of flowering);
• No more than 3 treatments.

Attention! The result will be good if there is no rain after 4-5 hours.

Alatar

Pests:

• Leaf roller;
• Flower beetle;
• codling moth;
• Moth;
• Medyanitsa;
• Sawfly.

Apply:

• During the growing season;
• 2-3 treatments;
• 30 days before fruit ripeness.

Spark (Double Effect)

Pests:

• Leaf roller;
• codling moth;
• Whitefly;
• Flower beetle;
• Weevil;
• Sawfly;
• Thrips.

Properties:

• Universal and fast acting;
• Double action (has a potassium component as a supplement).
• Apply after 10-15 days;
• 3-4 treatments.

Imidacloprid (Confidor, Admir)

• Systemic, intestinal and contact;
• Validity period: 15-20 days;
• The result is effective 3-5 days after treatment.

Aktara

• No odor, dissolves well;
• Long period of action;
• Valid in hot weather;
• Good compatibility with many fungicides.

Pests - sucking and gnawing insects:

• Shchitovka;
• Whitefly.

It is better to use with adhesives once during the growing season.

Californian scale insect on an apple tree.

Decis pro

Pests:

• codling moth;
• Leaf roller.

Attention! Poor compatibility with drugs that have an alkaline reaction.

Treatment by pest type

To avoid wormy apples, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures to combat codling moth from the appearance of butterflies until autumn (see below).

From scab in the spring

• After spring pruning (but before appearance of leaves) – urea 5%;
• Before the appearance of fruits - preparations containing copper (copper oxychloride, etc.);
• After harvesting - 1% Bordeaux mixture;
• If infection occurs, use a complex of minerals (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, potassium salt).

Scab on an apple tree.

From the codling moth and to avoid wormy apples

• Caterpillars appear 12-15 days after early apples fade;
• In winter there are under the bark, in hollows, in the soil.

• Peel the trunks from dry bark onto film and burn;
• Dig up the soil around the trunks;
• Install and clean fishing belts;
• Spray:
  • after the winter apple trees have shed their petals;
  • repeat in two weeks.

Apply karbofos, chlorophos, trichogramma.

Apple flower beetle (fruit weevil)

In winter it is in fallen leaves, under the bark.

Spray:

• When buds open;
• When the ovary falls off against young beetles.

Chlorophos is very effective.

From fruit rot (or moniliosis)

The disease is infectious and is promoted by:

• Unpicked diseased apples, both fallen and on the tree (including last year’s);
• Damage by various pests.

• Collect and destroy affected fruits;
• Treat the wood:
  • from pests with insecticides (primarily moths);
  • for diseases - Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.

From the leaf roller

• Hides in winter in the bark, on the branches near the buds;
• Appears when the buds swell and open;
• Curls the leaves.

Process:

• Nitrafen in early spring;
• Infusions of tobacco;
• Karbofos;
• Chlorophos.

Install:

• Hunting belts;
• Jars of fermenting molasses for catching butterflies.

Leaf roller.

From insects (and there are many of them)

• Pests bark- bark beetles, scale insects, mites.
• Pests foliage, ovary, flowers, buds– caterpillars and beetles of leaf roller, hawthorn, copperhead.
• Pests fruits— caterpillars of leaf rollers and codling moths, sawflies.
• Sucking pests – .

To have fewer of them:

• Collect and destroy fallen leaves and fruits;
• Dig up the tree trunk soil;
• Whiten the trunks with lime;
• Install catch belts;
• Spray trees with insecticides.

The whole garden, not just the apple tree, can be helped by planting plants, which, if they do not destroy, then repel harmful insects: garlic, calendula, tobacco, celery, sage, mint, chamomile, rosemary, dill, elderberry.

I would use this word to describe everyone who harms the apple tree. We have listed the most dangerous ones (including when and how to defeat them). Make sure that the harm from them is minimal.

From ants

At one time I was an ardent supporter of their usefulness for the garden, but time moves on. Now for me a colony of ants are carriers of aphids:

• You can make ditches with water if you have a lot of old tires;
• Build catcher belts and clean them periodically.

Also use Antiant and others.

From caterpillars

It could be leaf roller and codling moth(which we already covered above), and hawthorn, apple sawfly, silkworm and others:

• Therefore, the fight against them must be carried out not only when they are already crawling, but even at earlier stages and in complex;
• Agricultural technology and spraying.

From lichen

Appears on old apple trees. Prevention is done early in the veins and in the fall:

• In a timely manner ;
• Strip the trunks with a stiff nylon or metal brush:
  • from growths;
  • from peeling bark.
• Lubricate cleared places:
  • clay mixed with lime;
  • a thick solution of lime and copper sulfate;
  • strong 10% concentration of iron sulfate.

It is believed that lichen even protects the tree.

From whitefly

This quarantine pest species can be a carrier viral and fungal diseases.

Process:

• Biological: Bitoxibacillin, actofite – 2-4 treatments at the growing season;
• Chemical: treatment with one drug is not enough. You already know insecticides (Fufanon, Preparation 30B, Aktara, Confidor maxi, Iskra m, Karbofos and others);
• Folk remedies: infusions of onion peel, garlic, yarrow (treatment every 2-3 days).

Whitefly.

I remember the time when remedies against garden pests could be listed on one’s fingers. Nowadays, even an experienced gardener has a hard time understanding the products offered.

There are specialized stores. Experts can advise. Since on the market, what is not a drug, everything is in one word “Bomb”.

I'm sure it all depends on you!

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