Polycarbonate lean-to greenhouse - planning and construction. How to make a lean-to greenhouse with your own hands? Which side should lean-to greenhouses be mounted on?

The greenhouse attached to the house was conceived at a very early design stage. The main purpose is to grow seedlings for your own garden and for selling surplus. This greenhouse was originally planned as a “cold” greenhouse; in winter it was planned to maintain the temperature at 2-4 degrees Celsius, the main thing being that it did not fall below 0. At this time, it was supposed to store some outdoor plants that could die (boxwoods, lilac seedlings) and plants that do not need high temperatures in winter (laurels, roses, tangerines grafted onto trifoliora, etc.), of course, the greenhouse can be used for forcing tulips. Well, in the spring (from the end of February), when the temperature rises, it can be used to produce seedlings of flowers and vegetables.
To improve lighting conditions, a stepped design was chosen similar to the so-called Klin greenhouses of the 19th century, in which the racks on the northern part are located higher than on the southern part (in the diagram on the left). Because of this, glazing was not done on the northern side of the greenhouse, since there is no light from there in winter anyway, and heat losses increase significantly.
To reduce heat costs, the floor of the greenhouse is lowered 60 cm below ground level, the walls are made of ¼ brick (inside) and reinforced concrete outside.
Since well water in our area is hard and many plants cannot grow when watered with it for more than 6-10 months (myrtles, lemons), the greenhouse has brick containers with a total volume of approximately 15 m3 to collect rainwater. For waterproofness, an appropriate additive is added to the masonry mortar and plastering mortar. In addition, the inside of the container is treated with bitumen or acrylic mastic. Water is collected both from the greenhouse itself and from the house. In 2010, this volume was enough for the entire period without precipitation.
To prevent warm air from escaping into the upper part of the greenhouse in winter, the glazing is made in two ridges; in this case, warm air does not gather in vain at the highest point of the structure and the temperature difference near the floor and at the highest point does not exceed 2 degrees. For ventilation and cooling in the summer, transoms made of 6 mm cellular polycarbonate and vents on the side surface are made from above. The possibility of forced ventilation is provided - holes for fans are left in the northern wall.
The right side is used as a utility room, and soil, tubers, and pots are stored under the floor. The utility room itself is used for storing motorcycles, and also as a small workshop; a backup generator is also installed there.
During the construction of the house, the boiler was installed with a power reserve sufficient to maintain, in addition to normal conditions in the house - a positive temperature in this greenhouse at -15o -18o outside. Based on this, registers were calculated and installed. It was planned to make up for the lack of heat with electricity. The number of days per year when the temperature drops below these indicators usually does not exceed 15-20. But interruptions in the power supply forced us to first install a cast-iron collapsible potbelly stove, instead of which this year we installed a bell-type heating stove designed for both wood and coal. To increase the heat removal from it, I used a household fan, and for a more even distribution of heat, I installed a duct fan in a horizontal plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. The greenhouse withstood the first frost of this year at 26-28 degrees with the addition of a new furnace, and withstood it brilliantly. The presence of a large volume of water can significantly reduce daily temperature fluctuations in both summer and winter. For example, in winter, even when frosts occur below the calculated ones, the sufficient heat capacity of a buried greenhouse allows you to not start additionally heating the greenhouse for 1-2 days despite high heat losses through the glass.

A wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse is an optimal and very economical solution for areas with a small area, where every square meter requires the most efficient use. This design is inexpensive in its arrangement, easy to install and practical in terms of its operation. On average, with a competent approach, correct calculations and a correctly drawn up drawing, it takes a few days to build a wall-mounted greenhouse with your own hands. Let's consider one of the possible options for constructing a simple wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof.

Lean greenhouse (wall-mounted): preparation for construction

Preparation for the construction of a lean-to wall greenhouse begins with determining its future location. Typically, such extensions are placed near a free, dry, necessarily southern (!) wall of a country house made of brick or stone. Take this nuance into account, since it is in this well-lit place that summer residents often plant heat-loving perennial vines, which, unfortunately, will have to be parted with before building a wall building. Otherwise, the plants will very quickly entwine the transparent walls of the structure and completely block the access of sunlight to its space.

It is undesirable to erect massive wall structures near small wooden country houses. As practice shows, light residential buildings are rarely able to withstand the additional loads created by greenhouse extensions, which over time can lead to damage to their structural elements.

Having decided how and where to install the greenhouse correctly, you can proceed to developing its drawing. Even if you decide to use ready-made versions of drawings and projects, our dacha portal still recommends that you carefully double-check all the data and independently make all calculations tailored specifically to your case. Any, at first glance, insignificant errors in the drawing can not only significantly increase the cost of building a wall-mounted greenhouse, but also, over time, cause its partial, or even complete destruction.

When developing a drawing of your future cultivation building, pay attention not only to the design of the frame, but also to the internal arrangement. Calculate the number of racks and tables, their shape and configuration, width and length - taking into account the characteristics of the crops that you plan to grow.

In addition, at the preparatory stage it will be necessary to decide on the type of future structure.

As you know, lean-to greenhouses are:

– ground – installed on the foundation;
– in-depth, i.e. located in the pit.

The ground version is preferable for spring and summer use, while in-depth extensions are recommended if you plan to use them not only in the warm season, but also in winter.

It is important to think about the type of materials used for construction and accurately calculate their quantity, adding a small reserve for unforeseen cases. The most inexpensive and easiest to build option is a wall-mounted, lean-to greenhouse with a film covering and a wooden frame. In this publication we will look at this simple solution, available to most novice summer house builders.

Do-it-yourself lean-to wall greenhouse: materials and stages of work

So, to build a structure similar to the one attached in the proposed drawings and videos, you will need the following materials and tools:

– lumber for arranging the rear (high) and front (low) walls, as well as for the manufacture of rafters, braces, crossbars, doors and ventilation windows;
– durable film coating;
– materials for making the foundation;
– sledgehammer, hammer, tape measure, carpenter’s square;
– hand and miter saw, grinder, drill, screwdriver;
– consumables and accessories (galvanized nails, galvanized screws and plates, staples, reinforced building corners, hinges, etc.);
– safety glasses and durable gloves.

The amount of lumber is calculated based on the size of the house wall and the desired dimensions of the future extension. When purchasing them, it is very important to pay attention to the quality of the wood - it should not be damp, dry or have traces of defects. It is also necessary that the purchased materials be treated with special compounds that prevent rotting and destruction of the wood (in extreme cases, the processing of wooden elements can be carried out independently).

If you want your wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof to serve for many years without losing its stability and tightness, build it on a foundation. The most popular types of supporting structures for light structures are columnar and strip foundations - simple and quite economical in their arrangement. (We previously talked about how foundations for country houses are laid out in previous publications.)

Once the foundation is completely ready, you can begin building the greenhouse. In its most general form, the assembly algorithm for this structure includes the following points, namely:

– assembly of the rectangular base, its fastening to the foundation;
– assembly of a low (front) wall (to enhance the rigidity of the structure, horizontal crossbars of varying heights are placed in the center of its blocks, as shown in the figures);
– assembly of a high (rear) wall adjacent to the southern wall of the house (cross members are also used to give strength to this structure);
– trimming the upper part of the ridge at the desired angle (in the proposed version – along, at an angle of 30°);
– trimming the ends of the rafters (the upper ends, which will be attached to the ridge, in the presented case are cut at an angle of 30°, the lower ends - at an angle of 60°);
– fastening the assembled high wall and ridge to the base near the southern wall of the house (usually done using special brackets and braces);
– installation of the front low wall on the base;
– installation of rafters (in this version, the rafters are attached with their upper end to the ridge, cut at an angle of 30°, using the “half-tree insertion” method, however, many summer residents also use so-called “brackets” made of galvanized roofing or plywood to fasten the rafters - this the solution is simpler);

– arrangement of the side wall and installation of the door to the greenhouse at its eastern end (shown in the figure);

– arrangement of the side wall at the western end of the structure;

– arrangement of a ventilation window (shown in the figure);

– processing/grinding of rough surfaces of wooden elements with sandpaper, a sander or other tools;

– treating the installed frame with antiseptic drugs, drying oil or other anti-rotting agents, or painting the frame (these procedures are performed if necessary);

– attaching a film covering (another popular option is covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate).

For more reliable fixation, the film is additionally secured with slats on the outside of the structure. In the process of assembling all structural elements, it is extremely important to monitor the accuracy of all measurements taken - for this purpose, use the tools listed above (carpentry squares, plumb lines, levels) and equipment.

After the frame of the structure has been erected and the covering material (film, polycarbonate) has been securely fixed to it, they proceed to arranging the interior space of the finished lean-to greenhouse and checking it for leaks. If necessary, the resulting structure can be additionally insulated by treating the junctions of the frame with the wall, joints and seams in the foundation and roof with polyurethane foam.

Single-slope wall greenhouse - My Dacha - information site for summer residents, gardeners and gardeners

Wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse. How to build a wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof with your own hands?

How to install a wall greenhouse

In most cases, gardeners prefer free-standing greenhouses, but more recently the wall-mounted greenhouse has begun to gain popularity. This option for constructing a greenhouse allows you to rationally use the territory of a suburban area.

Scheme of a wall-mounted greenhouse.

A vegetable lover can independently carry out a competent layout of such a greenhouse for a country plot, and also significantly reduce construction costs. The main advantages of such a structure include the expansion of residential space. And thanks to polycarbonate glazing, it will be possible to grow vegetables in it or equip it as a winter garden.

Design features

Before you begin to consider the design features of greenhouses of this type, you need to familiarize yourself with the options for their design:

Option #1. Single pitch roof. Such greenhouse structures are the easiest to install and heat.
Option #2. Gable roof. In this case, the design allows you to maximize the space.
Option #3. Roof with individual design. If the zone of the heated greenhouse has an arbitrary shape, then the owner of a suburban area will be able to create not just a bed structure, but an entire winter garden on the premises. This greenhouse will be an ideal place for rest and relaxation.

Scheme of a film wall greenhouse.

Wall-mounted greenhouses have one feature - they are connected to one of the walls of a residential building or outbuilding. Experts recommend installing them on the south side. This will significantly reduce the volume of building material used and save on heating equipment. Overall dimensions will directly depend on the surface size of the adjacent wall.

Install boiler equipment that matches the dimensions of the greenhouse structure.
Install the greenhouse in specially dug trenches. This option involves burying the walls deep into the ground. In fact, those around you will only see a transparent roof with several end windows.
Use stone and high-quality polycarbonate for the construction of adjacent wall surfaces.

According to experienced gardeners, it would be more advisable to install a lean-to wall greenhouse on your suburban area. Due to its shape, the roof surface will not be loaded with the weight of natural precipitation. All this will affect the lighting inside the building as a whole. It should be noted that due to the passage of the sun's rays at an angle of 90º, the light will be scattered evenly.

Construction of the foundation

If the owner of the site has decided on the choice of place to build a greenhouse structure, it is necessary to begin the actual construction. You should start from the foundation. The foundation is the most important part of any building. By constructing the foundation, it will be possible to maintain a favorable microclimate inside the building and create support for load-bearing beams.

Scheme of types of greenhouses.

If you have decided to purchase a ready-made structure, it is worth noting that many manufacturers prefer to sell a foundation made of metal. But any plant lover in 90% of cases will prefer a standard concrete strip base. To properly perform such a foundation arrangement, you need:

Take measurements and make markings based on them.
After the markings have been made, you need to install wooden pegs at future corners and draw a rope.
Next they are digging a pit. The depth of the foundation will depend on soil freezing and climate conditions. It will be necessary to deepen the strip laying by at least half a meter. Experienced builders assure that installing a foundation 1 m below ground level allows you to save more than 10% of heat during the cold season.
Pillars are placed in the corners of the pit - this is the foundation. If the supporting structure is made of wood, then the part of it immersed in the ground is either burned or carefully treated with resin. This will extend the life of the “product”.

Creating a frame for a lean-to wall greenhouse

Single-pitched insulated buildings for growing vegetables and fruits require all parts to be highly resistant to the influence of external factors. Among other things, they must be light in weight and provide good illumination by transmitting light.

Wood is used specifically to create walls. This is due to ease of installation and accessibility. In some cases, plastic, aluminum or steel frames are used.

Scheme of recuperative heating of a wall-mounted greenhouse.

If we talk about the shape of the roof, it has a number of advantages:

A pitched roof is easy to work with. Installation takes little time and can be done on your own.
Wood, stone, building mixture or metal will be consumed several times less.
You can strengthen the structure against the load produced by the wind.
You can install a water drainage system on one side.

Attention! Do not forget that installation requires maintaining a certain angle of the slope. It can be calculated using a mathematical formula. This indicator depends on the type of coating and climatic conditions of the natural area. The range of roof slope angles varies from 5 to 30 degrees.

The simplest design is to install a slope from the top of the house wall to the ground at an angle of more than 30 degrees.

Installation of a wooden frame

The installation of a wall-mounted greenhouse begins with the installation of frame arches on the surface of the foundation. Then the crossbars and the lower bed are placed on them. All elements are secured using metal brackets, screws, nails, special corners or self-tapping screws. After this, slopes are installed.

If we are talking about creating a metal frame, then the fasteners should be the same.

Before installation, it is necessary to determine how the entrance to the room will be made: from a residential building or from the outside. In order to enter it from the outside, you will need to install a door frame. The surface of the first beam can be used as a jamb. But for the transverse element you will need to install a pole of the required height. After this, all the jambs are connected. Then you need to select a groove that will take into account the type of door opening. If you do the installation yourself, then all the cracks will need to be carefully caulked.

Polycarbonate cover

Polycarbonate greenhouses have become much more popular than glass ones recently. This is due to the fact that glass weighs much more than polymer. In addition, glass surfaces are highly fragile. Many gardeners prefer cellular polycarbonate, which is considered the best option due to its light transmittance and excellent thermal insulation qualities.

You should start covering the frame base by cutting the material “to size”. To do this, use a meter or ruler to measure the length and width of the entire room. To secure the sheet material, you will need to drill holes in it at a distance of at least 4 cm from the edge.

If the distance from the edge is slightly less than the length stated above, the sheet may simply crack.

To prevent heat from escaping from the room, you will need to seal all the holes with special tape. Advice: to improve the properties of the room, you will need to glue the bottom with perforated tape, and cover the top with solid aluminum. When using polycarbonate, it is necessary to purchase a sufficient number of thermal washers and rubberized gaskets.

Tools and materials required for work

For self-construction, you need to prepare the following tools and building materials:

polycarbonate sheets;
material for creating the frame (metal or wood);
construction mixture;
frame resin;
fastenings (nails, screws, construction clips, etc.);
hammer;
ruler or meter;
screwdriver;
building level;
rubber washers.

It is also worth taking care of preparing materials for decorating the interior space of the room.

A well-organized greenhouse will be the optimal area for growing cultivated plants and flowers. And through heating, ventilation and the creation of an automatic irrigation system, it will be possible to significantly increase productivity.

DIY wall greenhouse

How to build a wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouse

In practice, summer residents prefer to bring greenhouse structures onto the site as a separate structure. This solution requires sufficient space. If there is an acute shortage of free space, a lean-to wall greenhouse will make it possible to use the territory of a personal plot more efficiently. It’s not at all difficult to build such a structure yourself, using the sketches and recommendations provided by our experts.

Advantages of greenhouses adjacent to the wall.

The use of wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouses in gardening has a number of advantages that are needlessly underestimated by summer residents. These include the following criteria:

Rational use of land adjacent to a house or outbuilding.
The frame of the structure requires less building materials, due to the capital support of the house;
Stability of the structure. One of the sides must rest on a solid wall;
The ability to install electricity and water supply into a lean-to greenhouse adjacent to the wall of the house without any special material costs;
Reduced energy consumption for heating during year-round use;
Quick installation and ease of assembly if all necessary materials are available;

The only drawback of a wall-type polycarbonate greenhouse is the small usable area allocated for the cultivation of vegetable crops. Which reduces the number of tall varieties of tomatoes and cucumbers grown. However, in such a structure it is possible to prepare seedlings for subsequent planting in the ground and more spacious structures that protect the soil from unpredictable weather conditions.

Planning and organization of construction.

Before you build a wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse near your home, you will need to consider three main issues:

Where will the building be located?
What type will it be;
What building materials will be used in its construction.

The issue of the location of the future structure is a subtle nuance that cannot be ignored. Since plants cultivated in greenhouses, including wall-mounted ones, require lighting, they are placed in the most illuminated places in the garden. In our case, this will be the wall of the house facing south. This way it is possible to provide vegetables with maximum light conditions during the day.

The wall against which the building for vegetables will be covered with polycarbonate or film should not be wet. She should not have climbing plants. Perennial vines located next to a wall-mounted greenhouse can, in a short period of time, entwine the structure and block natural sunlight for the vegetables.

What kind of greenhouse will be next to the wall is the next question that you need to decide for yourself. When choosing a building design, be guided by the following criteria:

The interior space should be illuminated as much as possible;
The greenhouse must have enough usable area;
The design must retain heat for as long as possible;
Availability of natural ventilation;
Convenience and ease of maintenance.

Most of these criteria are best met by lean-to greenhouses adjacent to the wall, buried in the ground. A simple pitched roof is easy to maintain. It transmits the maximum amount of light and evenly disperses the sun's rays. Thanks to the rectilinear design located at an angle, precipitation will flow freely along the roofing material.

When building a frame in the rafter part of a wall-mounted greenhouse, it is easy to provide places for vents that will act as natural ventilation. The rectangular shape with a pitched roof allows for maximum use of the interior space. The option of installing a greenhouse in a trench will make it possible to retain heat for a long time and reduce heating costs.

To construct the frame of a protected ground structure, resting on one side against the wall of a house, lumber is most often used. Today this is the most affordable material for building greenhouses. However, to protect it from mold, mildew and rot, it will be necessary to treat it with deep penetration antiseptics.

The choice of base for a wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouse depends on the choice of construction option. For a recessed one, you will have to organize a foundation made of brick or concrete. If the structure is planned to be used from spring to autumn, then it will be enough to organize a support made of timber. We wrote how to do this in our recent article. Next, we will describe the process of constructing a ground frame that can be installed on any base.

Preparation of materials and tools.

As mentioned above, the wooden structure of a greenhouse attached to the wall is the best option in terms of budget savings and ease of installation. For our structure you will need:

Beam with a section of 100x100mm;
Beam with a section of 50x100mm;
Door hinges 2 pieces;
Window hinges 2 pieces;
Galvanized or phosphated self-tapping screws;
Bolts or studs for tightening the harness;
Galvanized corners to strengthen the structure;
Valves 2 pieces;
Polycarbonate;
Thermal washers for fastening the polymer coating.

Stages of construction of a greenhouse adjacent to the wall.

The stage of bringing out the dimensions of the foundation of a wall-mounted greenhouse onto a plane.

At the first stage of construction of the wall frame, it will be necessary to place the markings of the structure on a plane adjacent to the house. To do this you will need:

Clear the surface of all excess;
Remove the fertile layer of soil;
Using a tape measure, cast-offs and twine, mark the perimeter of the base;
Dig a trench of the required depth for pouring the foundation or laying timber frame.
After which it is necessary to prepare a reliable foundation.

You can learn how to make a timber foundation for a wall-mounted greenhouse here.

After a concrete base has been prepared for a lean-to wall greenhouse, you will still need to lay a wooden frame made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100mm on it. Corner connections of the beds are made in a paw or in a quarter. You can secure the beams together with staples or pins. The strapping is fixed to the concrete strip using anchor bolts.

Stage of assembling the front and back walls of the greenhouse.

At this stage of the construction of our lean-to greenhouse made of polycarbonate, adjacent to the wall of the house, two walls are assembled: front and rear. For this we need a beam with a cross section of 50x100 mm. From it you need to make:

2 upper beds and 2 lower beds 508 cm long;
12 vertical crossbars 152.4 cm high for the front wall;
12 vertical crossbars 252 cm high for the rear adjacent wall;
22 horizontal crossbars 42 cm long (11 for each wall);

All crossbars intended for the manufacture of the wall part of the greenhouse frame will need to be cut on one side by 30 degrees. This will be the angle of the roof slope.

Now we assemble the small (front) frame. We place short vertical crossbars between the upper and lower legs. The distance between them should be 42 cm. Using a square, we set the correct right angles at the frame. These elements are attached using reinforcing corners and self-tapping screws. In order to increase the rigidity of the structure, short horizontal crossbars are installed between the vertical crossbars.

The tall, rear frame of a wall-mounted greenhouse is assembled in a similar way, with a slight nuance. To provide the greenhouse frame with the proper angle of the roof slope, it will be necessary to cut the upper ends of the long crossbars at an angle of 30°, onto which the upper beam will be placed at the same angle.

Stage of installation of frames and rafter system.

After preparing the high and low walls of the greenhouse, they are installed on the prepared frame made of wooden beams. The high frame of the frame is mounted close to the south wall of the house. Screw connections are used for fastening. All cracks are filled with polyurethane foam to reduce heat loss during operation of the wall-mounted greenhouse. The small frame is mounted on the harness in a similar way. Using a square or plumb line, set a right angle and fix the frame with screws to the base and wooden boards to the back wall.

To install the roof, you will need to make 12 rafters from 50x100mm timber. To accurately connect the rafters to the wall of the house and to the upper beam of the front frame of the greenhouse, their ends must be cut at an angle. For the end adjacent to the wall, this angle should be 30°; for the opposite end it should be 60°. After that, the rafters are laid on the upper beams of the frames and secured with self-tapping screws.

To strengthen the rafter system, 11 crossbars 42 cm long are installed between the rafters in the center. The same number of crossbars will be required to arrange the ridge. All crossbars are fixed with reinforcing galvanized corners and self-tapping screws.

Side wall assembly stage.

To assemble the side walls, we will need to prepare the following elements:

2 beams 50x100mm, length 236 cm;
2 beams 50x100mm, length 196 cm;
2 beams 50x100mm, length 69 cm;
2 jibs 163 cm long;
3 crossbars 61 cm each;
4 crossbars 26 cm each.

The assembly of the side faces of the wall-mounted greenhouse structure is carried out according to the presented sketch.

The stage of assembling and installing doors and windows.

We prepare elements for the door:

3 cross beams 42.5 cm each;
2 vertical beams 187.3 cm each.

We assemble the frame according to the sketch and hang it on the hinges.

For one window we prepare:

2 beams with a section of 50x50mm, 34.5 cm each;
2 beams with a section of 50x50mm, 97.2 cm each.

We assemble the window according to the sketch using self-tapping screws and corners. We place them between the rafters and fix them on hinges to the ridge crossbar. To automate the ventilation process in a wall-mounted greenhouse, you can use special pusher devices that lift the windows when the temperature inside the room rises.

Installation stage of polycarbonate coating.

The stage that completes the construction of a wall-type greenhouse, covering it with cellular polycarbonate. This material was not chosen by chance. The polymer has proven itself well among plant growers in all regions. It has excellent light transmission characteristics, good thermal insulation, high impact resistance and a long service life. In addition, its use contributes to the formation of the most favorable microclimate for vegetable crops.

Before covering a lean-to wall greenhouse with cellular polycarbonate, it must be cut correctly. When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the position of the channels. It is unacceptable to place them horizontally to the ground. All sheets are laid in channels perpendicular to the ground. This will protect the material from deformation and destruction during frosts, when condensation will form in the voids.

It is necessary to attach polycarbonate to the frame of the greenhouse adjacent to the wall of the house using thermal washers with self-tapping screws and joining profiles. When fixing the roofing material, do not forget to drill holes for thermal washers with a margin of 2 mm. This will avoid deformation of the sheets during thermal expansion/contraction.

Do-it-yourself lean-to wall polycarbonate greenhouse: sketches and construction stages

A do-it-yourself lean-to wall polycarbonate greenhouse is a good alternative for small areas. The main stages of building a wall-mounted greenhouse with sketches and explanations.

In most cases, gardeners install greenhouse structures on their plots as a separate building, only if there is free space. In case of an acute shortage of excess space, a lean-to wall greenhouse helps out gardeners. The design makes good use of the site area.

Automatic winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate, vegetarian type:

Description of a greenhouse with a pitched roof

There are no fundamental differences between a lean-to greenhouse and a conventional one. It is also used for growing various crops. The greenhouse differs in design and location. This is a kind of extension to a living space, fence, garage, or adjoins one wall to a hill. The cross section of the roof resembles a right triangle.

How to place a wall-mounted greenhouse?

It is optimal to install a wall structure to the south wall of the house. Otherwise, crops will not receive the required amount of solar energy throughout the day. A greenhouse located in the shade will not have time to warm up to the required temperature.

ATTENTION: It is not recommended to install wall shelter to structures that are not strong enough. Because creating a certain load on a wall (not stone or brick) can destroy the entire structure. You should not place the greenhouse next to trees and tall bushes. Their foliage will shade the building.

Preparatory work

Before starting construction of an extension to the premises, preparatory work should be carried out. The first step is to develop drawings of the future lean-to greenhouse. In the drawing, indicate the dimensions of the building - length and height. These two values should not exceed the dimensions of the room to which the greenhouse will be attached.

REFERENCE: When calculating the height of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of future crops grown in it. Tall and climbing plants need more space.

You also need to prepare the foundation. Foundation construction technology:

Dig a trench across the entire area of the future extension - depth 40-50 cm, width 25-30 cm;
Using boards, fiberboard or chipboard sheets, assemble the formwork;
Place reinforcing mesh in the trench to strengthen the structure;
Install support pillars;
Pour concrete solution;
After 5-7 days, the solution will become solid and construction of the greenhouse can begin.

DIY wall greenhouse: assembly instructions

Installation of a wall-mounted greenhouse includes several stages:

Greenhouse example:

If you don’t have one, you can make it yourself. Install two pillars when pouring the foundation, and a crossbar. The door is equipped using leftover polycarbonate. For this purpose, pieces of polycarbonate of suitable sizes are hung on a rectangular frame, and door hinges are attached to the supporting pillars. In a cheaper option, a dense polycarbonate sheet is hung, the dimensions of which are 40-50 cm in width and height larger than the entrance. The margin is necessary so that the opening closes tightly. Upon completion of construction work, the resulting structure is completely sealed. The presence of even small cracks will not allow the greenhouse to remain warm and during frosts the crops may die. To seal cracks, use silicone-based sealant.

ATTENTION: When planning the installation of a wall structure, you need to know that high humidity prevails inside it. This fact can have a negative impact on the condition of the wall to which the greenhouse is attached. It is recommended to disassemble it during the hot summer months to dry the walls. There is no need to disassemble the frame, you only need to remove the walls.

The wall-mounted greenhouse is easy to install. The main load is borne by the strong wall of the house, so it is permissible to use a less durable frame. The greenhouse is also additionally protected from the wind, which helps avoid cooling in windy weather.

Lean greenhouse (wall-mounted): preparation for construction

In addition, at the preparatory stage it will be necessary to decide on the type of future structure.

As you know, lean-to greenhouses are:

- ground - installed on the foundation;
- in-depth, i.e. located in the pit.

The ground version is preferable for spring and summer use, while in-depth extensions are recommended if you plan to use them not only in the warm season, but also in winter.

Do-it-yourself lean-to wall greenhouse: materials and stages of work

So, to build a structure similar to the one attached in the proposed drawings and videos, you will need the following materials and tools:

Lumber for arranging the rear (high) and front (low) walls, as well as for the manufacture of rafters, braces, crossbars, doors and ventilation windows;

Durable film coating;

- materials for making the foundation;
- sledgehammer, hammer, tape measure, carpenter's square;
- hand and miter saw, grinder, drill, screwdriver;
- consumables and accessories (galvanized nails, galvanized screws and plates, staples, reinforced building corners, hinges, etc.);
- safety glasses and durable gloves.

Once the foundation is completely ready, you can begin building the greenhouse. In its most general form, the assembly algorithm for this structure includes the following points, namely:

- assembly of the rectangular base, its fastening to the foundation;
- assembly of a low (front) wall (to enhance the rigidity of the structure, horizontal crossbars of varying heights are placed in the center of its blocks - as shown in the figures);
- assembly of a high (rear) wall adjacent to the southern wall of the house (cross members are also used to give strength to this structure);

Trimming the upper part of the ridge at the desired angle (in the proposed version - along, at an angle of 30°);

Trimming the ends of the rafters (the upper ends, which will be attached to the ridge, in the presented case are cut at an angle of 30°, the lower ends - at an angle of 60°);

Fastening the assembled high wall and ridge to the base near the southern wall of the house (usually done using special brackets and braces);

Installing the front low wall on the base;

Installation of rafters (in this version, the rafters are attached with their upper end to the ridge, cut at an angle of 30°, using the “half-tree insertion” method, however, many summer residents also use so-called “brackets” made of galvanized roofing or plywood to fasten the rafters - this is the solution is simpler);

Arrangement of the side wall and installation of the door to the greenhouse at its eastern end (shown in the figure);

Arrangement of the side wall at the western end of the structure;

Arrangement of a ventilation window (shown in the figure);

Processing/sanding of rough surfaces of wooden elements with sandpaper, a sander or other tools;

Treating the installed frame with antiseptic drugs, drying oil or other anti-rotting agents, or painting the frame (these procedures are performed if necessary);

Attaching a film covering (another popular option is covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate).

Advantages of greenhouses adjacent to the wall

The use of wall-mounted polycarbonate greenhouses in gardening has a number of advantages that are needlessly underestimated by summer residents. These include the following criteria:

Rational use of land adjacent to a house or outbuilding.
The frame of the structure requires less building materials, due to the capital support of the house;
Stability of the structure. One of the sides must rest on a solid wall;
The ability to install electricity and water supply into a lean-to greenhouse adjacent to the wall of the house without any special material costs;
Reduced energy consumption for heating during year-round use;
Quick installation and ease of assembly if all necessary materials are available;

ATTENTION!!! The depth of the concrete foundation must be no less than the depth of soil freezing. In order to save on concrete, the trench can be filled 1/3 with crushed stone and 1/3 with river sand. The remaining part is filled with concrete mortar. This method will not allow the forces of frost heaving to squeeze the foundation out of the ground.

Front and rear wall assembly

2 upper beds and 2 lower beds 508 cm long;
12 vertical crossbars 152.4 cm high for the front wall;
12 vertical crossbars 252 cm high for the rear adjacent wall;
22 horizontal crossbars 42 cm long (11 for each wall);

All crossbars intended for the manufacture of the wall part of the greenhouse frame will need to be cut on one side by 30 degrees. This will be the angle of the roof slope.

Installation of frames and rafter system

Side wall assembly

To assemble the side walls, we will need to prepare the following elements:

2 beams 50x100mm, length 236 cm;
2 beams 50x100mm, length 196 cm;
2 beams 50x100mm, length 69 cm;
2 jibs 163 cm long;
3 crossbars 61 cm each;
4 crossbars 26 cm each.

The assembly of the side faces of the wall-mounted greenhouse structure is carried out according to the presented sketch.

Assembly and installation of doors and windows

We prepare elements for the door:

3 cross beams 42.5 cm each;
2 vertical beams 187.3 cm each.

We assemble the frame according to the sketch and hang it on the hinges.

For one window we prepare:

2 beams with a section of 50x50mm, 34.5 cm each;
2 beams with a section of 50x50mm, 97.2 cm each.

Covering installation

ATTENTION!!! To prevent condensation from accumulating in the polycarbonate cavities, the ends of the sheets must be sealed with special tapes. The upper ends are sealed with a special sealing tape, and the lower ends are sealed with perforated vapor-permeable tape.