Household appliances of this type have long become an indispensable attribute for most households. Purchasing and connecting washing machines to sewerage and water supply has long become commonplace and most of us know how it’s done.

However, in this article we will dwell on the issue in detail and analyze all the nuances of connecting to water supply and sewerage, what methods exist, what tools and materials we will need.

And how to avoid common mistakes.

Materials and tools for connecting to water supply and sewerage

The need for certain materials when installing and connecting washing machines to sewerage and water supply is determined, first of all, by the location of the unit and the accessibility of the designated objects. In some cases, it is necessary to incur significantly higher costs in order to subsequently use household appliances conveniently for many years.

If you plan to lay additional branches from the water supply in the groove, you will need a fairly powerful angle grinder with a saw blade for concrete. You can use a hammer and a chisel to break out the concrete.

A pipe without joints is laid in the groove to ensure its long-term operation without leakage. Otherwise, if a leak occurs, restoring the functionality of the pipe will involve a large amount of troubleshooting work.

To connect to the water supply network, a tee with a shut-off valve is usually used, and to install it in place, a set of wrenches or a universal adjustable wrench is used. All threaded connections are sealed with tow or FUM tape.

Installing an external pipe involves attaching the pipe to the wall; for this you will need an electric drill and concrete drills. Plastic dowels are installed in the drilled holes, fastening is carried out with screws of the appropriate size.

When installing washing machines, the main requirement is horizontal position of the top cover in relation to the floor. For precise installation of the washing machine, a building level is used; adjustment is made using screw support legs.

To arrange a drain for washing machines into the sewer, you will need a drain adapter with an outlet at an angle of 45 degrees.

To connect washing machines to electricity, you will need a three-core cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters in double insulation and a 16-amp diffusion machine with a leakage current of no more than 30 milliamps.

In addition, it is possible to use control equipment - a voltmeter. Let’s take a closer look at how to properly connect the washing machine to the mains below.

Preparing washing household appliances for installation

First of all, when the unit is delivered to the installation site, it needs to be unpacked. Usually the machine is packed in a cardboard box and secured with plastic tape. It needs to be cut and removed.

After this, the cardboard box is carefully removed and the foam pads are removed from the top and sides. Next, you need to lift the car and pull out the lower foam platform.

In this case, it is worth paying attention to its design - if there is no special boss in the middle on which the device drum rests in the transport position, then in this design it is manufactured and installed separately. You need to tilt it and remove this insert.

Please note that the cardboard packaging and foam pads must be retained for the duration of the warranty. If a situation arises in which you need to replace the machine due to its defect, this operation will not take place without packaging. These are the terms of the guarantee.

Inside the cardboard package there is an envelope or folder with technical documentation. It contains:

1. A passport for the purchased washing machine indicating the personal unit number and other credentials. All entries in it must be certified by the store’s seal.
2. A warranty card, which is certified by the store’s seal indicating the date of sale, since the countdown of the warranty period begins with it.
3. Operating instructions, starting from the moment of unpacking, and instructions on the installation procedure.

You should strictly follow all the manufacturer's requirements, since failure to comply with any of them will result in a waiver of warranty obligations.

Watch the video

The packaging also contains the components of the purchased washing machine. Typically they include:

• Flexible filling hose equipped with plastic union nuts for connection to the machine and water supply;
• drain hose for removing used water after washing and spinning clothes;
• reduction – an intermediate part for connecting the drain hose to the sewer pipe;
• bracket for fixing the drain hose on the wall;
• wrench for removing transportation screws and adjusting the position of household appliances in space before turning them on;
• plugs installed on the holes for transportation screws after they are removed.

These are the main items of the sales kit, which may differ from model to model.

Removing shipping screws

One of the ends is installed on the hose at a right angle. It must be installed on the inlet of the unit. The installation angle prevents the hose from kinking or pinching. Connection is made in the following order:

1. Turn off the water supply to the water supply by turning off the tap on the riser.
2. Unscrew the flexible cold water line at the sink or sink.
3. Install the tee onto the supply pipe in the water supply system so that the side outlet is located conveniently for connecting the washing machine hose.
4. Screw the filling hose to the tee. When tightening the plastic nut, do not use a tool, and only tighten the nut until it stops by hand. Tool installation often results in breakage of the flimsy plastic nut.
5. Install the flexible mixer hose.

A test supply of water to the system with the washing machine should be carried out with the tap on the crosspiece closed, and only after making sure that there are no leaks can it be opened to check the reliability of the hose connection.

This connection option is used when the installation location of the unit coincides with the location of the sink or sink.

Otherwise, you need to bring the water closer to it. .

An additional pipe of the water supply system is extended to the installation site of the washing machine, where it is connected in the manner described above.

Often, filling the household with household appliances occurs gradually; eventually, under the sink or sink, the entire space is filled with tees and a tangle of various hoses.

Watch the video - connecting the washing machine to the water supply and sewerage system

Providing for this possibility, a manifold with several outlets is installed on the embedded pipe. An output that is not currently in use can be closed with a plug and used at the right time.

Connecting washing machines to the sewer - consider 2 methods

Watch the video - the first method of installing a drain into a sewer

Draining used water into the sewer system is a mandatory process in the operation of units of this kind, because the purification of contaminated wastewater is becoming increasingly important.

If we simply talk about organizing the drainage of water from washing machines into the sewer system, we can do without directly connecting these two systems.

It is enough to use a U-shaped bracket from the unit sales kit, which fixes the drain pipe on the edge of the bathtub. At the same time, the issue of the height of the drain into the sewer is resolved, due to which a water plug is formed, preventing the reverse flow of water.

Many modern units include the installation of a check valve that prevents this process.

Considering the specific location of the sewer system in a house or apartment, there are no problems with connection, but it has its own specifics.

Connecting to the sewer directly is used quite often, being the simplest to implement. But this method has its drawbacks.

To implement this, it is necessary to install a spacer to the sewer pipe in the form of a tee, and the outlet should be at an angle of 45 degrees.

The drainage hose is connected to a sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters, while its size is 22 mm. Therefore, the connection is made using a special spacer called a “reduction”.

The drainage hose of washing machines is standardized on all models and has a diameter of 22 millimeters. There are no special adapters for draining this size; this simple rubber part is used on the transition.

When the machine is located in close proximity to the outlet of a sewer pipe, it is naturally connected to it using a tee.

Watch the video - we connect it with our own hands to the water supply and sewerage system

But if the unit is located at the opposite end of the room, the most reasonable solution is a diameter of 32 millimeters followed by a transition to size 50.

In this case, it is necessary to fulfill the requirements for a slope of this pipe of 2-3 millimeters per meter of length. A reduction with these dimensions is produced and can be purchased on the market.

Connecting washing machines to the electrical network

When making repairs in a bathroom or kitchen, you must provide wiring for connecting a washing machine or other similar equipment. It should be understood that combining water and electricity in one unit makes it a means of increased danger. Therefore, separate wires are pulled to connect them.

Watch the video

Based on the maximum total power possible in such household appliances, you should usually focus on 2.3-3.0 kW.

What you need to connect

The list of materials for creating an autonomous network for connecting household appliances is not extensive and includes:

1. Conductor products are selected from copper samples. At the same time, taking into account the place of application, they must be double insulated.

1. An emergency shutdown control device that will save household appliances from failure due to voltage surges, and the building from a possible fire. The equipment will not be damaged if moisture gets into the electrical network.

1. High security socket with moisture protection.
2. Additional materials include common parts for electrical installation - clamps, terminals, junction boxes, cable ducts, etc.

Electrical installation

We draw your attention to the need to follow all the rules in order to ensure your own safety and the safety of your property and home:

1. During installation, you must use only professionally designed connection diagrams.

1. Do not twist aluminum and copper wires together.
2. To carry out wiring, you need to use wires only of the appropriate cross-sectional power.
3. Grounding cannot be done by connecting a wire to a water pipe or hot water supply.
4. The sockets used must be made on a ceramic base in a waterproof casing.
5. It is strictly not recommended to use an extension cord or adapter from a regular outlet to a Euro plug to connect washing machines.
6. It is prohibited to connect the ground wire to the neutral wire.
7. The connection wire must be laid as a separate line.

Watch the video

How to level a washing machine

This operation is final and is performed after it is connected to all communications. If this is not done, the machine will be overloaded during operation, and strong drum vibrations will occur, which will not extend its service life.

The top cover of the unit must be positioned horizontally. To do this you need to perform the following operations:

1. Install the washing machine in its permanent location. The distance from the back panel to the wall should be no more than 5 centimeters, otherwise the hoses may be deformed or broken.
2. Loosen the locknuts on the machine legs.
3. Use a spirit level to determine the direction of rise or fall.
4. Adjust the position of the unit by unscrewing or tightening the screws. The tolerance for non-parallelism of the cover in relation to the floor is no more than 2 degrees.
5. Having achieved the correct position of the machine body, you need to tighten the locknuts to the body.

1. It is important to prevent vibration of the unit, which can occur if there is a gap between the leg and the floor. To do this, you need to try to swing the body in different directions. If necessary, tighten the legs until the same tightening force is achieved.

First start

To check the functionality of the installed washing machine, it is necessary to carry out a test wash. This is done in the following order:

1. Connect the machine to the network.
2. Select the desired washing mode and set it on the display.
3. Enable work mode. When pouring water into the tank, monitor its filling time in comparison with the passport data. If the machine fills slowly, it is necessary to check the pressure in the water supply and, if necessary, take measures to increase it in accordance with the passport recommendations.
4. Check the water heating time for the selected mode.
5. When filling the tank with water, check for leaks; if there are any, eliminate the cause and repeat the tests.

The program and rules for conducting a trial run are described in detail in the relevant technical documentation. Recommendations for different models may differ, but these should be used as a guide.

Tips, recommendations and errors that may occur during the process of installing a drain to a sewer and connecting to a water supply

The main thing that can be recommended during the installation of any household appliances is to carefully study the instructions in the technical documentation. Even an experienced person installing a washing machine may encounter new devices and installation technologies that he has not encountered before.

1. Check the pressure in the water supply system to see how well it meets the requirements and specifications of the equipment being installed.
2. Likewise, you need to calculate the load on the power supply line so that the remaining power is sufficient to connect all existing equipment. If it is not enough, you can use the equipment alternately, although this is very inconvenient.
3. When unpacking the washing machine, you need to additionally make sure that the spacer under the drum and the shipping screws are removed.
4. If there is no non-return valve on the drainage system of the unit, a sewer smell may appear in the room and the quality of washing may be reduced to unacceptable. You can purchase a built-in valve and install it. Such devices are available on the construction market.
5. All threaded connections must be sealed. You should use tow with caution when connecting standard hoses. It tends to swell and can tear plastic nuts.

Watch video - errors in connecting to water supply and sewerage

Household equipment on the modern market has a very high degree of readiness for work. Having carefully studied the requirements of the instructions, anyone can handle the installation.

Connecting a washing machine with your own hands is not technically difficult, but it is quite a responsible task. And the price for irresponsibility is expressed not only in money. The probability of an electrical breakdown in a washing machine is several times higher than in a dishwasher and is on the verge of what is acceptable for household appliances. And the capacitive leakage currents in it are also large, and the heat generation during operation is significant. Therefore, for long-term safe operation of the machine, it is necessary to properly prepare its workplace. This can be done either independently or with the assistance of specialists. And the right choice depends not only on your desire and/or skill.

It all comes down to grounding

Reputable sales organizations often include the cost of on-site installation in the sales price. It seems to be not bad; the premium in itself is small, once the business has been put on stream. But, firstly, “cool” companies sell “coolness” - you won’t find budget models there.

Secondly, such traders are not involved in the installation of protective grounding; it must be equipped in advance, otherwise the company refuses installation (but does not return the price premium), and the warranty is immediately lost. You bought an expensive assistant, the company’s master came, saw that there was no grounding, wrote an “internal” document - and that’s it, you are without a guarantee and without a considerable amount of money.

But even if the machine was purchased from a “simple” seller without any special conditions, but it later turns out that it was operated without grounding, you will be denied warranty repairs. The installation instructions for any automatic washing machine state in black and white that its operation without grounding OR protective devices is unacceptable. OR it was highlighted for good reason, we will talk about this later.

Conclusion: installing washing machines with your own hands is quite possible if provided in advance. If you purchase an expensive brand from a reputable trading company, then if you have grounding, they will install it for you at a ridiculous price, compared to a private craftsman, with full guarantee.

Kitchen, bathroom or closet?

Before discussing the issue of primary importance - grounding the washing machine, you need to decide an equally important one: the place for its installation.

A washing machine is a fairly powerful source of heat and humidity. And there should be an electrical outlet next to it. Its contacts are covered for you, but they are exposed to air. Therefore, it is not recommended to install an automatic washing machine in the bathroom, where humidity is always excessive:

• The installation of household electrical distribution and switching devices in the bathroom is directly prohibited by SNiP (Building Norms and Rules). Have you ever seen a light switch in the bathroom in a new home? Only outside, and the lamp is waterproof. Considering the widespread use of automatic washing machines, electricians are still turning a blind eye to this, but gritting their teeth: household electrical injuries from washing machines in the bathroom have long exceeded permissible limits. The grounds for introducing additional legislative measures are undeniable, but if they are prohibited by law, but not by departmental rules, there will be fines; the owners also face expensive repairs.
• Even if the power cord from the washing machine is taken outside the bathroom (extending it will void the warranty), there are enough components in the machine itself, the durability of which is reduced by increased humidity and air temperature.

Most users understand this perfectly well, and most often place the washing machine in the kitchen. At the same time, it is easy to connect to water, sewerage and electricity. But the temperature and humidity problem remains. And often you have to choose: washing or cooking. In addition, there is no excess space in the kitchen, and this is the most visited room in the house.

But if you have a closet adjacent to the bathroom or kitchen, this is the ideal place for the washing machine. Punching holes in the wall for communications for a car is not a difficult task, no approvals are required - the wall between the closet and the services cannot be permanent. They almost never go into the closet; it is dry and cool. And with the door open, the washing machine itself will create intense air circulation in its small volume.

In numbers, it looks like this: if we take the model-averaged failure rate of washing machines installed in the kitchen as the base rate, then the frequency of machine breakdowns in the bathroom will be 2.4 times higher, and in “closets” – 1.7 times lower.

Note: V prestigious houses of the Soviet era, the so-called Czech project, the technical description directly indicated that the closet adjacent to the kitchen was intended primarily for installing a washing machine and household water-heating appliances. Given the utility tariffs of that time, this was perceived as a curiosity.

Protection against breakdown and leakage of electricity

For a washing machine, protection against leakage currents is more important than against breakdown. Modern household appliances are generally made reliably, and direct “bangs” with smoke, stench and intensive care are an exceptional phenomenon, and that’s due to the carelessness of the owners.

But the electrical capacity of a large tank with several tens of liters of water and a large powerful motor is quite large: up to 0.01 uF in older models. At 50 Hz in a 220 V network, the capacitive leakage current will be 0.7 mA - this is still safe, but already a noticeable pinch, especially through wet hands in a damp room.

To readers familiar with electricity as part of a school physics course, the given data may not seem very reliable, but keep in mind: they relate to a filled machine, and water is an anomalous liquid, its dielectric constant is very high: 80.

The leakage current does not interfere with the operation of the machine, it does not reduce its reliability, but it is fundamentally impossible to stop it, it can only be diverted to the ground. An increase in leakage current above the permissible limit is a clear signal of an impending malfunction. That is why it is forbidden to operate washing machines without protection against electrical leakage.

Aquastop and aquacontrol

The main share of leakage current comes through the drained water. Drains are also the main source of water leaks. Therefore, manufacturers recommend purchasing aquastop devices (another name is aquacontrol), which turn off the machine in the event of an electrical and/or water leak. Reputable manufacturers equip their cars with aquastops.

A complex aquastop requires a separate power supply. A box without an electrical cord and a low-power low-voltage power adapter is a primitive shut-off valve that does not protect against electrical leakage and does not protect well against water leakage.

Electronic grounding

In apartment buildings, it is often difficult, if not impossible, to arrange individual protective grounding, on the one hand. On the other hand, manufacturers are not asleep: combating leakage currents is one of the most important tasks of branded designers.

In modern, working washing machines, the leakage to the body does not exceed 10-12 µA, which is imperceptible. But in a pre-emergency situation it increases sharply. For such a case, so-called electronic grounding (circuit breakers, circuit breakers). They pass leakage current into space through themselves, just like a person, and when it increases to a noticeable limit of 0.1-1 mA, they disconnect the machine from the network.

Despite its undoubted advantages, electronic grounding has a significant drawback: its sensitivity is highly dependent on the air parameters in the room. Electronic grounding can stubbornly shut down a perfectly good machine.

With any electrical devices, 90% of malfunctions occur when turning on/off, so some manufacturers prohibit the operation of their products with electronic grounding. So when buying a car, be sure to ask the seller whether using it with electronic grounding will void the warranty.

Typical grounding scheme according to modern PUE:

Protective grounding

But the owner is shocked and frightened by the electrical leak not through the water, but onto the car body. To eliminate it, protective grounding is needed. Its type depends on the house:

1. In a private house, the technically ideal option is the simplest protective grounding, see below. It does not need to be registered: in a controversial situation, the expert will check the current flow resistance, and if it is not higher than 4 Ohms, which is not difficult to ensure, the decision will be in your favor.
2. In apartment buildings of previous years, from Khrushchev to perestroika, complete protection will be provided by protective grounding. A DEZ electrician will quickly and willingly do it for a small fee.
3. In old houses up to and including “Stalin” buildings, if the house grounding loop is not equipped, you will have to install electronic grounding.
4. In modern houses, the problem of grounding does not exist: according to the new building rules, they are necessarily equipped with a grounding loop and Euro sockets. In addition to illegal unauthorized construction for rent “with signs of multifamily housing,” as they write. But that's another topic.

How to make grounding yourself:

To do this, you need 2-4 pieces of metal pipe 1.2 - 2.5 m long, but not shorter than the freezing depth of the soil. The bottom of the pipe is driven into a stake with a sledgehammer, and a dozen 5-10 mm holes are randomly drilled in its lower third. Then they dig a trench on the bayonet of a shovel, and drive in the pipes so that they protrude 5-10 centimeters above the ground, at a distance of 0.6 - 1.5 m from each other. In a trench, below ground level, the pipes are connected with reinforcement by welding. A 6-8 mm steel wire or a 15-25 mm strip is welded to it and brought into the house - this is a grounding bus; The grounding terminals of Euro sockets are connected to it with a stranded copper wire of 4-6 sq.mm. To do this, holes are drilled in the strip and threads M4 - M6 are cut into them; the wire is pre-splashed. The seat for grounding conductors from sockets is cleaned with sandpaper and lubricated with grease; better - graphite.

Note: In summer, when the soil dries out, a salt solution is poured into the pipes at the rate of half a pack per bucket. This is necessary to ensure the current flows in dry soil. At an outside temperature of +35 degrees, it is enough to fill once a week; at +30 – once a month.

Grounding diagram for a private house

Installing a washing machine

Installation and proper connection of the washing machine is carried out in the same sequence as the dishwasher: drain, water, electricity, test. But there are features:

• In a large and voluminous washing machine, the so-called phenomenon has a stronger effect. temperature hysteresis of automation. Therefore, if the house has a boiler, electric or gas, then the overall costs of water and electricity will be lower if the washing machine is powered with hot water from it. For a small dishwasher with negligible water consumption, the situation is the opposite.
• Connecting to the electrical network also includes protective measures, and protection is done first and foremost.
• Washing machines wear out and break very quickly if they are tilted in any direction by more than 2 degrees, and they cannot withstand resonant vibrations at all. Therefore, the floor under the washing machine should not play, and before checking the functionality, the horizontalness of the upper plane of the machine is checked with a level, and the machine is leveled with standard threaded feet.

Note: On websites with the suffix.kz you can find recommendations for connecting a washing machine to a centralized hot water supply. Perhaps in Kazakhstan they still supply hot water without a meter at old Soviet tariffs, but in the Russian Federation this advice is unacceptable.

Drain

Connecting the drain of a super narrow, narrow or compact automatic washing machine is done into a siphon with an additional fitting for the kitchen sink. But in this case, the washing machine should be nearby: you cannot extend the drain hose. In low-performance machines, the drain pump is also low-power; in addition, the hydraulic resistance of a long hose will overload it, and it will quickly fail.

For high-performance machines with a tank volume of more than 30-40 liters, the kitchen siphon will not let the whole thing through - some of the dirty water will go into the sink. In this case, you need to connect the washing machine to the sewer with a separate outlet. To do this, you will have to cut an additional section with a pipe into the sewer pipe, and pass the washer drain through a separate siphon (see picture above).

Important: The elbow of the washing machine siphon should be located below the bottom of its tank. In most cases, this requires placing the machine on a stand 30-40 cm high. Take this into account when choosing a place for the washing machine.

Note: a compact washing machine can be installed in the kitchen, on a shelf or, if there is space, on a table, or moved there. In this case, the drain will simply go into the sink. Such machines are often equipped with water hoses with a socket and cuff that fit onto the kitchen sink faucet.

Water

As stated above, the washing machine is connected to the water supply through both the cold and hot branches. There are no special features here, just two half-inch water tees, two shut-off ball valves and FUM tape for waterproofing are enough: the branch pipes of the complete water pipes often turn out to have threads that are too short, and the standard gasket has to be thrown away.

Protection, electricity and testing

First of all, install the aquastop on the drain hose, according to the instructions for it. Then we turn on, if required, electronic grounding. This device is equipped with a European socket, and we plug the washing machine into it. If there is an “earth” protective ground, connecting the washing machine to the electrical network is as simple as inserting the plug into the socket.

We open the water supply to the machine and check the pipelines for leaks. If there is a leak somewhere, we fix it. Then we turn on the machine in test mode; At the end of the test, it should turn itself off and indicate on the display that everything is OK. If the machine is inexpensive and does not have a built-in test, we simply wash something, but this will consume more water. The final stage is to turn off the hot water to the machine and check, using a test or washing, whether it works on self-heating.

Important: aquastop and electronic grounding devices do not duplicate each other; they must work together. If there is a tight protective pinch, aquastop is still necessary.

In order for the washing machine to work for a long time without breakdowns and “not shock”, it must be installed in a suitable place and ensure reliable protective grounding. Otherwise, installing a washing machine yourself is not difficult.

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But not only heaters require connection to the water supply system. Often such an indispensable assistant as a washing machine is installed in the bathroom.

And if we have already looked at connecting a washing machine to electricity, then in this article I would like to talk about how to connect a washing machine to a water supply yourself, without resorting to the services of a plumber.

So, let's see how to connect the water to the washing machine so that it will help you with the housework for many years, working without interruptions and leaks.

Choosing a place to install the washing machine

Before you start connecting the washing machine, you need to do some preparatory work.

The first step is to decide on the installation location. Depending on this, you will need to select the length of the connecting hoses, as well as the place of insertion into the internal water supply system of your apartment.

You also need to decide in advance about connecting the automatic machine to the sewerage system and to the electrical network.

It’s good if, to do laundry, you don’t have to pull an electrical extension cord across the entire room to the next room, and the connections to the water supply and sewerage don’t form an incomprehensible tangle of hoses on the floor, constantly getting in the way and spoiling the look of your bathroom.

Think in advance about the place where your machine will stand. Access to it must be free to ensure frontal or vertical loading of laundry, depending on the design of the machine.

Often, when unloading/loading laundry, some small objects (towels, napkins, underwear) may fall, so access to the machine must be provided from different sides so that a towel or any other item that has fallen behind it can be easily reached without moving plumbing fixtures or furniture.

Most often, washing machines are installed in the bathroom or kitchen, under the sink, between the sink and the bathtub, next to the bathtub, behind the nearest wall in the kitchen.

Preparing to connect the automatic machine

After you have decided on the place where the washing machine will be installed, you need to calculate how long the connecting hoses will be needed and decide on the required fittings and the number of fittings.

The length of the hoses for connecting the machine should be determined taking into account the fact that they must be hidden behind pieces of furniture, under the bathtub, behind the toilet - that is, laid hidden so that you do not have to trip over them every day later.

If the length of the hoses included with the machine is not enough, do not skimp, buy special extensions with a reserve length, this will greatly facilitate their installation in the future.

To connect the washing machine to the water supply system, you will need a ball valve or ball valve. If you yourself cannot decide which shut-off valve is best to choose in your situation, then you can draw a diagram of the piping in the bathroom with a pencil on a piece of paper and with this diagram go to any nearest plumbing supply store to consult with specialists. At the same time, do not forget to put all the diameters on the diagram so that you know what taps and fittings you will need.

As a rule, the connection to water is made on a straight section of pipe with the installation of a tee, or a branch of the pipe is used, to which a flexible line from the toilet tank is connected. In some cases, it may be more convenient to make the connection at the location where the mixer is installed (at the cold water supply to it).

If it is not possible to connect to the extension of the pipe to connect the supply to the toilet tank or to the mixer, then you can use another method - make the connection using a special mortise clamp. In this case, you will have to purchase this clamp before connecting.

To connect to a steel pipeline you will need combed flax, gas wrenches, and adjustable wrenches.

Instead of flax, you can use FUM fluoroplastic tape, but installation on flax seems more reliable - it swells when exposed to moisture, and the connection seals very well.

To connect to the internal water supply system, you may need special equipment for soldering polypropylene pipes, as well as special fittings for plastic and metal-plastic.

Immediately before starting work on connecting the washing machine to water, do not forget to unscrew the transport bolts from its rear wall that secure the drum to prevent damage to it during transport of the machine.

When everything necessary to connect the washing machine to water has been prepared, you can proceed directly to making all the necessary connections.

Connecting old washing machines

Old washing machines did not know how to heat water themselves, so they had to be connected not only to the cold water pipeline, but also to the hot water supply pipeline.

The connection was made as shown in the figure below:

It is clear that it is more difficult to operate such a machine, so today one can see such a machine less and less often. Modern washing machines are high-tech products equipped with a thermostat, timer, software control unit for washing modes, a filter and a water supply pump, so we will not consider this connection method in detail in this article and will consider connecting an automatic washing machine only to a cold water pipeline .

Connecting the automatic machine to the toilet water supply

This is perhaps one of the simplest and most commonly used ways to connect a washing machine to a water supply.

This method is simple in that in this case it is not necessary to perform complex installation operations - you just need to twist the flexible line from the branch of the pipe, screw on the tee, and then connect back to the tee the flexible line from the toilet tank and a flexible hose for supplying water to the washing machine through the shut-off valve. faucet (or valve).

The same connection method can be used at the point where the water heater is connected to the cold water supply.

Connecting washing water to the mixer

If you have a separate bathroom or the extension of the pipe to which the toilet tank is connected is far away, you can connect at the location where the faucet is installed.

For this, a special tee with a ball valve built into it is used.

A tee is placed in the gap between the cold water connection pipe in the mixer and the cold water supply to the mixer.

This connection method is simple and reliable, but has one drawback - the hose for connecting the water to the washing machine will always be visible. If you choose this connection method, it would be better to remove the pipes and all connections under the tiles.

Connecting a washing machine to a metal-plastic pipe

You can connect to a metal-plastic pipe almost anywhere. To do this, you just need to cut the pipe and install a metal tee in this place to branch the pipeline to the washing machine.

After cutting the pipe, you need to measure the size of the tee, cut the pipe to the required length, put on a connecting ring with a nut, then use a special calibrator to flare the ends of the pipe at the junction with the tee so that the pipe can fit onto the fitting of the tee, then move it to the tee from both sides sides of the O-rings and tighten the nuts.

In order not to damage the pliable metal-plastic pipe after installing the tee, it is better to screw the shut-off valve to it in advance - before you cut the tee into the pipe.

After the tee is cut in, flexible water hoses are attached to the faucet screwed to it.

Connecting an automatic machine to a polypropylene pipe

The most difficult connection is connecting the machine to a pipeline made of plastic pipes.

Their installation requires a special heating tool that fuses the pipes and fittings at the joints.

It is almost impossible to ensure a high level of comfort in the residential sector without the use of modern electrical appliances. That is why air conditioners, water heaters, convectors, dishwashers and other household items are increasingly becoming part of everyday life.

However, perhaps the most popular type of household appliance is the washing machine. This is due to certain advantages when using it:

• Minimization of manual labor;
• Wide range of operations performed;
• Possibility of integration into a highly intelligent home control system;
• Impeccable appearance.

When choosing equipment for home use, it is necessary to start from personal preferences, financial capabilities and individual characteristics of the object. However, after purchasing the desired assistant, many consumers are interested in how to connect a washing machine yourself and is it even possible to do this? In order to dispel all doubts, this material is presented.

The main stages of connecting a washing machine on your own can be divided into several types.

Preparing the washing machine for installation

So, after the washing machine is purchased and delivered to its destination, a number of preparatory operations are required. First, to do this, you need to decide on the location of the intended installation of the equipment. And although, in principle, any room can be used as such a place, it is still more common to place a washing machine in places for household purposes (bathroom, kitchen, corridor, pantry).

When choosing a location for the washing machine, you must take into account the following features:

1. Proximity to the installation of utilities (water supply, sewerage, electricity) necessary to connect the device;
2. Aesthetic component;
3. The presence of a flat (preferably reinforced concrete) surface of the floor base;
4. Optimal placement from an operational point of view.

The second step of the preparatory stage is the dismantling of shipping parts. Particular attention should be paid to this procedure, because operating the machine with these components will certainly lead to failure of the washing machine. Typically, bolts, staples, and wooden beams are used as transportation elements - all these elements must be completely dismantled.

It is advisable to carry out this stage after reading the operating instructions, which describe this procedure in more detail.

Thirdly, at the preparation stage, you should take care of the quality of the floor base in the place where the product is intended to be installed. A number of requirements must be met here:

• The base must have a solid structure;
• The horizontal surface must be ensured;
• The base material must be resistant to aggressive operating conditions.

If these criteria are not met, measures must be taken to facilitate the fulfillment of the listed requirements. So, for these purposes, a cement-sand screed can be laid on the floor surface, in the intended installation location of the equipment, or the existing floor base can be strengthened (if necessary).

It is recommended to stock up on the following components as the basic materials for connecting a washing machine yourself.

Installation of a washing machine: a complete description of the process

After all preparatory procedures have been completed, you can begin installing the washing machine. To do this, it is advisable to use a building level or plumb line. The machine must be positioned strictly horizontally (checked by the top cover), and the maximum permissible deflection angle should not exceed 2º.

The horizontal position of the washing machine should be adjusted only by screwing or unscrewing the support legs of the device. It is strictly prohibited to make adjustments by placing additional materials under the supports, as they may jump out during operation. The only valid option in this regard is to use a thin rubber mat. It is necessary if the machine is installed on a sliding surface (tiles).

Once the body of the machine is perfectly aligned, the support legs are mechanically secured by tightening the locknut counterclockwise.

In order for the washing machine to serve with maximum efficiency, special attention should be paid to the installation process. Therefore, before connecting the washing machine with your own hands, it is very important to consider the following factors:

• The machine will stand more stable with the adjustable feet screwed in as much as possible (this circumstance may be acceptable if the surface of the base floor is ideal);
• When installed on a sloping floor, fixing elements can be used to secure supporting structures;
• You can check that the washing machine is installed correctly by rocking it diagonally. In most cases there should be no free play. If it is present (depending on the rigidity of the washing machine body), then its amplitude should be the same for different diagonals.

Connecting the washing machine to the water supply

Before connecting the washing machine to the water supply, you should take into account that this procedure is very important and therefore must be taken quite seriously. To make such connections, a water hose with appropriate fittings is usually supplied with the washing machine, but quite often its length is not enough to connect the washing machine in the required place. In view of this, the following water supply methods are often used:

1. Using a longer rubber hose (can be purchased at specialized outlets);
2. Implementation of a fixed connection.

In the first option, the performer’s task is only to connect the finished product to the inlet pipe of the washing machine and the water intake point. It is advisable to carry out these procedures on the basis of certain recommendations.

Firstly, the water hose should be laid in a place least susceptible to mechanical damage (it can be run under the bathroom or hidden by furniture). Secondly, you should not connect the hose under tension, as during operation of the washing machine it may become deformed due to vibration of the device.

And, thirdly, we should not forget about the quality of the purchased accessory. After all, when used in aggressive conditions, such a pipeline must provide a reliable and tight connection.

In the second case, water supply can be realized by laying stationary communications. For these purposes, both metal pipes (copper) and plastic-based systems can be used. It is not advisable to connect the washing machine to the water supply system using ordinary steel pipes, as this can cause clogging of the main components of the machine with suspended rust particles that can form in the cavity of such pipelines.

As in the first case, the system must ensure high tightness and prevent leaks. It should be noted that it is still not worthwhile to directly connect stationary pipelines (especially metal ones) to the inlet pipe of the washing machine (due to the occurrence of vibration). The best option would be to use a flexible adapter hose.

In both the first and second options, when connecting the washing machine to the water line, it is advisable to ensure that the following conditions are met:

• Connections are made using shut-off valves (ball valve), which allows you to disconnect the consumer if necessary;
• Before entering the washing machine, install special mechanical or magnetic filter systems that allow water purified from contaminants to be supplied to the unit;
• As water supply points, use either ready-made outlets (to the mixer or flush tank), connecting pipelines through tees, or pre-install individual liquid intake points (pipes, drains).

Installation of a washing machine to the sewer

Despite the apparent simplicity of the operations, connecting a washing machine to the sewer on your own is not very easy. This is due to some physical features of such a circuit.

The drain can be connected in two ways:

1. According to a temporary scheme (by fixing the drain hose to the sides of the bathtub or washbasin);
2. By permanent connection to the sewerage system.

And if in the first case the connection is limited to the standard connection of the drain hose to the outlet pipe, then the second option requires a more significant investment of labor.

Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

Electricity, water supply and sewerage - for normal operation of the equipment, the washing machine must be correctly connected to each of these three networks. You can do some of the work yourself, and entrust others to professionals.

It is quite possible to correctly connect the washing machine to the sewerage system, electricity and water supply with your own hands. Watch the video of the process on our website, and you can do most of the activities yourself.

Choosing a location for installing the washing machine

Before connecting the washing machine, decide on the best location for its installation. Optimal options:

• Kitchen;
• Bathroom;
• Toilet;
• Any other room, for example, a storage room. But subject to the possibility of installing electricity, sewerage and water supply there.

Equipment preparation

To ensure that the washing machine does not break down immediately after connection, remove the bolts and other fasteners from it in advance for transportation. For example, for delivery safety, the equipment drum is bolted. In working condition, you will only see springs on it.

Unscrew the bolts from the back of the equipment, cover the holes with plastic plugs. Make sure that there are no defects on the intake and drain hoses (kinks, holes, etc.).

First, let's find out how to connect the washing machine drain to the sewer system. There are several options:

1. During normal operation of communications, through the siphon of a kitchen sink or bathroom. At a height of 70-80 cm from the floor, secure the drain hose using a special clamp (located on the back of the unit body). Insert the hose end into the siphon and secure it to the mounting nuts.

Important! Installing a siphon is the best choice for connecting equipment to the sewer system. It will not let unpleasant odors and sewer water back into the car.

If there is a check valve at the drain of the unit, you can choose this and the option below.

2. Pipe insertion through the adapter. Shut off the access of sewer water to the system. Using a core bit, drill a hole of the required size in the pipe with a drill. Place the adapter on the pipe and tighten using bolts or clamps.

If you will not install the machine immediately after tapping, cover the outlet with a plug. To connect the drain hose, you will need a sealing collar. If you still have questions, the washing machine connection diagram will tell you the correct sequence of events.

Connection to water supply

You can also connect the washing machine to the water supply yourself. Moreover, all the necessary elements are usually supplied with the equipment: no additional purchase of fittings or flexible hose is required. But sometimes the hose is not long enough, and then you can:

• Select a permanent installation;
• You can use a longer rubber hose by simply purchasing it at the store.

In the latter case, connecting the washing machine to the water supply system involves connecting the pipe on the equipment to the water intake point through a new hose. There is a rubber seal on each side of the hose. The main points of the procedure are as follows:

• Do not lay the rubber tube where it may be mechanically damaged;
• Do not allow tension on the element. Otherwise, the vibrating machine may deform the hose;
• Make sure connections are tight and secure.

How to properly connect a washing machine permanently? The process is similar to the above, but requires the use of polypropylene or metal pipes.

Important! If you use a steel pipe, rust particles may clog important equipment components in the future. If possible, buy a plastic pipe.

Let us note once again that you should resort to a stationary method of connecting to a water supply only if it is impossible to use a flexible hose.

Important connection points:

• To ensure that the water supply can be stopped in the future, use a ball valve to connect;
• To protect internal components from clogging, use a small coarse filter. It should be installed before entering the machine;
• To connect water, use a tee of the main pipeline or ready-made bends.

Electrical connection

If you haven't worked with electricity before, seek professional help. The cost of specialist services is low. On the other hand, if you connect the unit to electricity incorrectly, the consequences can be very dire.

If you are also going to do this work personally, keep in mind:

• The distribution board must be grounded. Since in most cases the machine is installed in rooms where it is impossible to avoid high humidity. The minimum tire size is 3 mm. You can use a three-wire outlet;
• If the unit will be located in the kitchen, connect it to the stove socket - this is more convenient;
• The extension cord (if necessary in its use) must have grounding contacts. If possible, connect structures using a separate wire coming from the meter that fixes the circuit breaker. If you do not have a separate wire, purchase a portable RCD.

Important! Avoid experiments and grounding connections to gas pipelines and/or heating equipment. Otherwise, you risk not only the safety of your equipment, but also your own health.

Final stage

After you have connected all communications, conduct a “test drive” of the equipment. Carefully monitor not only the operation of the machine, but also whether it makes any extraneous sounds, leaks, or vibrates too much. Noticed any irregularities? Contact professionals, they will be able to find and fix problems.

Video: how to connect a washing machine yourself