Today the construction market is overflowing with various materials. It is worth saying that each of them requires a special approach to work.

This also applies to ceramic tiles, which many experts have already noted as a “picky material.” Therefore, in order to figure out how to properly glue this type, you need to familiarize yourself with some nuances.

Glue selection

Ceramic tiles are one of the leading types of finishing materials, as they have excellent performance properties. If you need such a purchase, the site pro-gres.ru will help you with this.

Quite often there are cases when masonry is susceptible to damage and destruction, and for what reason is unknown. This can be influenced by several factors, namely:

• formation of voids after installation;
• violation in installation technology;
• poor adhesion performance;
• the presence of height differences on the surface.

All these reasons can affect the peeling of the material. In this case, it is necessary to begin eliminating defects.

First, you need to purchase a suitable adhesive that will securely fix the tiles to the wall or floor. The most commonly used compounds are those whose main components are plastic and rubber.

Cement-based adhesive will also provide good adhesion to the surface.

In the store you can find a lot of options for different types of purposes. You can choose a composition that is suitable specifically for ceramic tiles.

If you want to purchase universal glue for installation, it is better not to do this. The fact is that experts note the low effectiveness of this product, although it is intended for various species.

Often, new tiles are attached to old material, but for this you need to carefully treat the surface. In this situation, a solution whose main component is cement is suitable.

If there is high humidity in the room, you can use silicone sealant. Working with such a tool is much faster and easier.

Fastening tiles

If the tiles in the room start to peel off, then don’t panic. This problem is quite easy to solve.

First you need to prepare the surface for further installation. Dismantling of old material must be done carefully.

After processing and careful preparation, you can begin fixing the ceramic tiles. Apply a small layer of glue to the material and then fix it to the surface.

To ensure the tile is firmly fixed, you can tap it with a small object. Then, excess glue must be removed and the seams can be processed.

In order to rub the distances, the cladding must dry completely.

This video will help you choose the right composition for fixing ceramic tiles:

Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing rooms with special operating conditions. Such cladding is not afraid of exposure to high humidity, temperature changes, abrasive loads, and is itself very attractive in appearance and easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms – you can’t find anything better. And what’s also important is that you can handle the installation process yourself.

Why does it make sense to try doing the cladding yourself? It’s just that even if the surfaces to be laid are perfectly flat, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of a specialist as the material itself costs, and this is even in the best case. Such expenses can be completely avoided. Having become acquainted with our article-instruction how to lay tiles on a wall, the reader will get a clear understanding of all stages of the work, from preparing surfaces and choosing tiles to sealing joints. And you will certainly be convinced that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such finishing.

Preparing surfaces for finishing

It is completely pointless to start facing work on a wall that is not prepared for this. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that a layer of ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the “ugliness” of the surface, and the result will be a straight, beautiful wall. They are sorely mistaken!

What does the preparation process include?

• It is imperative to get rid of the old wall decoration. It will not, for example, hold adhesive tiles on a painted surface. Completely excluded or even small fragments thereof. If there was previously a tile on the wall, then after dismantling it, all sagging and drops of hardened glue should be removed.

• The quality of the plaster layer, if any, must be checked. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area and identify areas of instability that must also be removed. And most often it happens that if a peeling area is found in one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.

• In no case should it be ignored if traces of biological damage are found on the walls - mold stains, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then a preliminary “treatment” of the wall will have to be carried out

• There should be no gaps or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate repair work is carried out to properly seal them.

• The wall must be flat, that is, it must be a plane, and not a twisted, piled-up, protruding or concave surface. The tiles can be laid on leveled walls without any problems. Yes, there are methods for leveling walls by installing ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not all experienced craftsmen like to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer has to “debut”, there’s no need to even think about it. It will be much easier to carry out leveling - and the finish will definitely be of high quality.

There are many ways to level, and some of them, for example, using moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber slabs are not so complicated and will not require much time.

How to level the walls yourself for finishing?

Don't be intimidated by this task in advance. There are many available technologies that even beginners can quickly master. Moreover, laying tiles does not require a perfectly smooth surface - the correct geometry is sufficient. are discussed in detail in a special publication on our portal.

• Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, so it is worth thinking about reliable waterproofing. This applies to a greater extent, of course, to the floor, but it also makes sense to provide on the walls waterproofed“belt” at least 100÷200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is advisable to reinforce with waterproofing the areas of passage through the walls of water and sewer pipes, and the areas around water outlets.

And in frankly “wet” areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to carry out continuous waterproofing. Approximate size standards for these areas are shown in the illustration:

• Finally, the wall must be carefully primed with a deep penetration compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface and eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to harden under optimal conditions. The best adhesion performance is achieved. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never be superfluous.

If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting until the first layer has completely dried. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after completion of the preparatory work. But if for some reason there is a significant time gap between this stage and finishing, then it would be advisable to apply the primer again - a day before the start of installation of the tiles. This way, a high-quality result will be guaranteed.

Drawing up a project and selecting the required tiles

It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will only focus on some practical aspects.

Planning the placement of tiles on the walls

Of course, the owners should already have an idea of ​​what they want to see in the end. You've probably gotten acquainted with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, they just have to “fit” the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their room.

Here you should not rely on your eyes. The best option is to draw up a graphic diagram for each wall separately. Moreover, if it is not intended to be a continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or divided into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites that allow you to optimally place tiles on the walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own either in a graphic editor, or simply on paper diagrams.

• In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will be on the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately figure out which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove this area accurately. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the gaze of those entering, such placement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose a location such that you start from the center of the wall - AThenfrom It is laid to the edges with equal trimming on both sides.

It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tile. It often happens that the optimal layout seems to be when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then the layout goes to the sides with, again, symmetrical trimming along the edges.

The cut edges can be easily hidden by laying solid tiles from the corner on the adjacent wall. If two cut edges meet in the inner corner, then this too can be solved by grinding one of them. On external corners, a decorative corner copes well with this task. More details will be discussed later.

• They also show the necessary “creativity” when planning vertical rows. So, the installation, which ends in a narrow section under the ceiling, does not look particularly advantageous. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or suspended ceiling.

But the narrow section can be removed first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will become completely unnoticeable visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. More precisely, it is generally recommended to lay out this bottom row last, so no problems with precise trimming are expected. All this will be shown below.

However, other circumstances may also influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. These may be features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, it is always recommended to place the tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the side by 20-30 mm. This will not disturb the aesthetics of the installation, and will remove the vulnerable seam from the “wet” area.

• When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Let this not seem like a trifle: when using not very large tiles, but on a large wall, the difference is considerable.

When laying on a wall, too thick joints are most often not required. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting the joints with a fugue, the visual effect of the thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will appear wider.

• It is clear that when drawing up diagrams, the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements - are taken into account. If a fully developed plan for each wall is always at hand, then during the installation process there is much less chance of making a mistake.

Some nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls

Tiles designed for walls are much easier than floor tiles. Indicators of its strength, abrasive resistance, roughness, etc. fade into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.

We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate topic. But some important points still need to be emphasized.

• There is a very wide variety of formats on sale. But you shouldn’t immediately chase large tiles. Firstly, it doesn’t look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it there can be a lot of waste, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, installation of such cladding requires some experience, and a novice master may not be able to cope with the task - any mistake will be visible.

If you are planning to lay the tiles yourself for the first time, then it is better to proceed from its average size, for example, up to 300÷400 mm on the long side.

• should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
• If you plan to cover walls in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for a material marked with a snowflake icon - it is not afraid of freezing.
• It is mandatory that all purchased packages of tiles of the same type are checked for batch matching. The fact is that the same article, but released on different shifts, may differ slightly in color tone. This is most often not noticed visually in the store. But after laying on the surface, even a small difference can spoil the overall appearance.

• Of course, they try to purchase tiles of the highest possible grade. Even at factories, products are sorted, and products with distorted shapes go on sale as second- or even third-rate. You can be exhausted when styling them.
• Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions of the finished product closer to the declared standard. However, the specifics of ceramic production do not yet allow us to achieve a unique match in the sizes of all tiles without exception. The packaging of the tile may indicate its caliber - alphabetic or numerical designation, and attach a plate with its decoding.

It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to it, since unjustified savings can lead to unsuccessful finishing, and in in the end the total costs will be clearly “minus”.

• In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to purchase the missing quantity - the required batch may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with proper layout and high-quality cutting of the material, this is enough. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the margin can be increased to 15% - there will be more waste in any case. But let us immediately note that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal installation without good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
• Do not hesitate to ask the store to check all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged during transportation. Yes, and obvious defects sometimes come across.

• Even first-class tiles from the same batch and the most precise caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for lining the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - pushed “to the periphery”. And those with the most significant dimensional distortions or with minor defects should be used for cutting to fill areas along corners or the floor.
• The quantity of tiles is usually calculated individually. This can be done if a high-quality scheme is drawn up. And even more so, you will have to do this when you plan to use several varieties to create a special decorative interior.

But in the case when it is intended to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There you will need to indicate the finishing area, the dimensions of the tiles and the width of the tile joint. The reserve 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the layout principle.

Today we will look in detail at how to glue tiles to the wall. Although this issue must be considered in conjunction with gender. After all, this is basically how it is done. The markings and rules for choosing material will depend on this.

Today we will look at how to choose the right material and how to properly glue tiles to the wall step by step.

If you haven’t decided what to cover your kitchen wall with instead of tiles, this is not surprising, because it is quite difficult to find a replacement for this material:

• When applying this type of coating, you get a beautiful and even surface that will last for quite a long time;
• The material tolerates high humidity well and is most often used in finishing rooms with high humidity, for example, in the bathroom (see Tiling a bathtub: how to do it right);
• It is not afraid of low temperatures and is suitable for finishing rooms without heating;
• There are a large number of not only colors, but also sizes. This will allow you to select material with virtually no waste;
• It is not afraid of alkalis and various oils, so it is also suitable for finishing industrial premises;
• It’s also not difficult to maintain and you won’t have any problems with how to glue fallen tiles on the wall, because it’s easy and quick to do. You just need to try on and adjust the tile to the desired size and simply fix it to the mortar.

Material selection

Anyone can glue tiles to the floor or walls, and do it with their own hands. First you need to choose the right material. Here everything will depend on the location of the cladding and the location of the plane itself.

The most basic division of tiles can be determined by two types:

Choosing tiles	This material has a thin appearance. He does not tolerate physical impact. It has many manufacturing options and, accordingly, types. So there is plenty to choose from: For example, for a “splash” in the kitchen, tiles of lower quality are suitable, while for the bathroom you should not purchase low-quality ones.
Floor tiles	The difference is that for the floor, it is more durable, with a non-slip coating, while for the walls, a glossy one is used, possibly with an embossed pattern. The dry mixture is selected taking into account moisture resistance, this is indicated on the packaging. Discounted tiles usually do not meet the required quality, or they are leftovers.

Attention: When purchasing, you should always make calculations upward, because tiles often break, or an error may occur when cutting. You should always remember that, having purchased the required number of tiles, in the future, the exact same one may simply not be available.

Ways and methods of laying tiles

Laying tiles is a fairly simple operation. Among builders, it is not considered difficult; anyone, even a student, can do it. However, work of such a plan requires preparation for it, and, importantly, action according to the rules, that is, in order to achieve a positive result, everything must be done correctly.

Compliance with safety measures is also important. It would seem - what could cause harm with such work? But you shouldn't neglect your own health. All work is divided into stages, each stage has its own characteristics. Having carefully studied and strictly followed the rules, everything will work out.

Security measures

A very important stage. When working with tiles, one way or another, it is inevitable that you have to deal with a very caustic material with sharp edges.

So:

• When doing dismantling (see How to remove tiles from a wall without damaging the base), you need to use safety glasses to avoid small particles getting into your eyes.
• To protect your hands, use gloves. Special attention here - the fact is that when tile adhesive gets under the nail, it hardens, while expanding, as a result - you can be left without nails. In case of accidental contact, it is necessary to rinse using a brush.
• The same applies to the eyes. Tile adhesive is not exactly cement; it contains a huge number of chemical compounds. Therefore, if it gets into your eyes, you should rinse it immediately and, if necessary, consult a doctor. When glue gets on the skin of your hands, cracking occurs and ulcers form - very painful and unpleasant.
• Medical gloves are used, but more durable ones are chosen (always have a pair in stock). Before working with the solution, it is recommended to lubricate your face and hands with baby cream; if glue accidentally gets in, it will be easier to remove.

Preparation for the main work

Before gluing the tiles to the wall, you need to properly prepare the base plane. The appearance and durability of the coating will depend on this. Moreover, everything can be done with your own hands and, accordingly, the final price will not be high.

Everything is done in the following order:

• It is necessary to remove everything unnecessary, freeing up the walls.. Sometimes they try to avoid this stage, but attempts to circle the tile around the obstacle mainly lead to a loss of quality. It is better to remove everything that is possible, this will save time, simplify the task as a whole, and improve the quality of the work performed.

• Processing a painted wall.

1. It is best to completely wash off the previous dye. There is an article on this topic on our website (see How to wash off paint without problems).
2. If you can’t remove the dye, then you need to treat it with sandpaper; in addition, notches are made on the wall for better adhesion of the solution to the wall. The notches are made with an old axe, or a hammer, or, alternatively, a hammer drill.

• . Leveling the walls is a very important stage. It will not be possible to avoid it; in the end, this, one might say, is the condition under which it becomes generally possible to perform the installation efficiently.

1. It is necessary to check the corners and verticality of the walls. Otherwise, the result will be “scattering”, it looks very ugly, but in fact it is a defect. In such work, the most important thing is the vertical direction, the angles themselves, of course it is desirable to “bring out”, but the vertical will precisely affect the spread. This can be done using a level, attaching it to the wall, or using a plumb line.
2. If damaged, the wall needs to be corrected. With the help of guides, the front wall is “displayed”. The guides are attached to the wall using gypsum mortar. You don’t need to prepare it much, the guides are attached to the “bloopers”, and the vertical is verified.
3. They are also installed vertically, at a distance of 50 cm from each other, and they should not be moved far from the wall, only at the distance necessary for alignment.
4. In cases where the guides have to be moved far away, more than 3 cm, it is necessary to strengthen the mounting mesh before applying leveling plaster. In this case, the applied layer of plaster should not be made thick at once, but applied gradually, allowing the previous layer to dry. To perform such work, it is recommended to use dry mixtures that meet the quality requirements for rooms with high humidity.

• If there are already old tiles on the wall, they must be removed. It can be removed with a hammer and chisel; you can use a hammer drill after installing a special attachment on it. The work is dangerous because when a tile breaks off, small parts of it can get into your eyes. It is necessary to work in safety glasses.

• The floor also needs to be leveled, after removing the old tiles. But before starting work, the floor needs to be treated with waterproofing. There are a lot of such materials, there are various films, or roofing mastic is used.

This is in order to prevent possible leaks, as well as possible accumulation of water in the floor slabs, which in itself may well be a room with high humidity.

After installing the insulation, beacons are installed on the floor and secured to the gypsum mixture. You need to install them along the bathroom, at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The distance is not important, but there is no need to make it too large (inconvenient to level the solution) or too small (wasted labor).

The tool is the same as in cases of leveling walls with plaster. If the floor turns out to be wooden, you need to examine it for wear. If necessary, replace (entirely or partially), while wooden parts are treated with special solutions to prevent rotting and burning. Waterproofing in this case is done on top of the boards, with a 10 cm overlap on the wall.

Marking

Before gluing tiles to the walls, they must be correctly marked.

So:

• When applying markings, the size of the tile, the presence of insert elements, and the presence of a border or panel are taken into account.
• Starting from the ceiling, calculate how many whole (not cut) tiles fit to the floor.

• The lowest row, on the floor, is adjusted (cut). For convenience when working, at the place where the whole tile ends, closer to the floor, a block or steel profile is attached, so that it becomes possible to “put” the first row on the “shelf”.

• Such a “shelf” is attached to dowels, but so that it can be easily removed, but at the same time, it must be installed level. It turns out that the first row from the floor remains; it is done after the rest of the tiles have been laid and the mortar has hardened. In cases with a border, such a shelf is made in front of the border, but if there is little experience yet, it is recommended to go from bottom to top (gradually), then the border itself will turn out arbitrarily, it is possible to clarify it locally.
• For clarity, an option with a diagram is possible, here it’s simple, a drawing is made, and the tiles are spread out. There is an opportunity to experiment. You need to calculate it like this - the front wall, the one that is directly from the entrance, the tiles are glued onto it taking into account the cutting spacing, that is, in such a way that the cut part is on both sides. This wall is done first.
• For beginners, and even for experienced tilers, it is very convenient to use special “inserts” in the corners, connecting the wall to the floor (plinth), in this case, the cut part of the tile is hidden, visually it looks very beautiful. But in general, all the cut edges are “driven” to places that are not visible upon entering the room, or attention is drawn to such places last.

Laying tiles

Now let’s directly figure out how to glue tiles to the walls. This work is done in a certain sequence.

The stages of gluing tiles to the wall will be distributed in the following order:

• Before starting masonry, a solution is prepared.

There are several options here:

Cement mortar	Cement mortar for gluing tiles to the wall is suitable both on internal and external surfaces. Not afraid of temperature changes and high humidity.
Ready mix	These compounds are best used only for internal work. After all, you don’t even know how well their composition will hold up. After all, the instructions on the package do not at all indicate the correct preparation. Attention: They are best suited for grouting joints. After all, they are produced in different colors.

Water is poured into a bucket (or basin), and gradually, in small portions, the dry adhesive mixture is poured in, while constantly mixing. The solution should not be too thick, but at the same time not too liquid. It is recommended to mix with a construction mixer (attachment to a drill).

Attention: after the solution is mixed, it needs to sit for about 5 minutes. And you need to take into account the peculiarity that the batch, after it has settled, becomes a little thinner. A solution is prepared using cold water only. There is no need to add various additives to the mixture, such as cement or sand; sometimes they experiment with adding PVA glue.

The mixture is completely ready after diluting it with water.

• The next step will be laying the tiles. When it comes to walls, it’s easier, and at the same time better quality, when the solution is applied to the wall. This is not important, you need to work in a way that is convenient.

• Before applying the solution, it is recommended to treat the wall with a primer mixture (penetrating primer), this is done immediately before laying the tiles, and in addition to strengthening the structure of the plaster, it plays the role of wetting, for better adhesion of the adhesive to the wall. At the same time, the tile itself does not need to be wetted. Using a notched trowel, “stretch” the mortar along the wall; a large area should not be covered, enough for 2 – 3 tiles. “Cross” are inserted immediately.

• Professionals do not insert crosses into the joint of 4 tiles, and do not recess them. Only one petal is inserted so that it can be easily removed later. The mixture under the tiles should be distributed evenly, leaving no voids in the corners. During installation, periodically, you need to clean the seams, this is done with the same “cross”, and then swept away (with a brush).
• During the work process, we constantly check the evenness in all directions (vertical, horizontal), as well as the joints of the tiles themselves. To do this, use a level. For ease of work, there are several “tricks” - when you take a tile, you need to pay attention to the pattern on the back side, in the future, navigate by it, this is done to avoid “reversals”, sometimes it happens that the pattern on the front side does not match, by the fact that it is upside down.

• Tiles in packaging, during transportation, or later during work, are always placed on the “edge”. This will prevent the tile from breaking. Of course, they will change it in the store, but you will have to go there, and besides, it may not be the right color. Before work, the material must be “stood” for approximately 8–10 hours at the temperature at which it will be used.

Final revision

This means “grout”. This is the final stage, so you should approach it responsibly. Grouting material is sold ready-made, dry, and can be of different colors.

Attention: It is recommended to use ready-made, already diluted, specific color. It often happens that it is not possible to repeat the color, and you have to invent something, so it is better not to suffer, but to immediately purchase a ready-made solution.

• With the finished mixture, fill the gaps between the tiles using a silicone spatula. This must be done so that there are no voids left. As it partially dries, the seams are “washed” with a foam sponge. To do this, use ordinary water, but add liquid soap.
• The seam must be processed in such a way that it forms an even strip, without bubbles or gaps. In this case, there is no need to leave excess; the formation is done along the edge of the tile, so that the “grout” does not protrude. All plastic parts (corners, baseboards) are coated with silicone sealants; excess is removed with a sponge and soap solution.

In conclusion, I would like to add - despite the fact that the work itself is not difficult, the attitude towards it should be very serious.

You now know how to glue tiles to a wall. If you do everything slowly, then it won’t take much time and you will also save financially. After watching the video in this article and photos, everything can be done quite quickly and efficiently, the instructions will help to prevent mistakes.

The plinth is the lower thickened part of the outer wall of a building, located on a foundation with a layer of waterproofing, or the above-ground part of a strip foundation. The basement thickening increases the thermal and waterproofing of the basement floor, visually adds good quality and stability to the building, and is an important element of the architectural design for decorative finishing.

Cladding the base is the most important final stage of building a house

The base can be cast from monolithic reinforced concrete or laid out from brick, concrete blocks, or natural stone. Due to the proximity of this belt to the surface of the earth, the base is more susceptible to contamination than the walls of the building, and the surfaces of the listed building materials are difficult to clean. Therefore, the plinth area needs to be lined with an aesthetically attractive material that does not require complex maintenance.

A successful technical and architectural solution is to finish the base with porcelain stoneware, clinker or natural stone tiles that have properties that meet the operating conditions of the coating. Let's consider the technology by which the plinth is faced with ceramics, first dividing the scope of work into stages.

Materials for finishing the base with ceramics:

1. tile;
2. styling adhesive;
3. grout mixture.

The final result of the work depends on the correct choice of the variety of each of them. Let's consider the principles that should be followed when choosing materials.

Tile

The tiles for finishing the plinth must have the following characteristics:

• hardness – for resistance to impact;
• frost resistance is a prerequisite for external finishing material;
• low degree of water absorption - to eliminate the accumulation of moisture in the finishing material;
• resistance to chemicals – resistance to road chemicals in winter;
• aesthetics - the need to comply with the architectural design of the facade;
• resistance to ultraviolet radiation is a necessary condition for the durability of the color scheme of the cladding.

The cladding allows you to protect the base from negative influences

Considering the responsibility of the structure and the relatively small square footage of the area to be finished, it is unreasonable to skimp on the quality of the material for this work, so cladding the base with porcelain stoneware (gres) or clinker, which has the listed properties, is completely justified. The color, size and format of the tiles are selected individually, based on the dimensions of the plinth and the overall design of the building.

The cost of tiles made of natural stone is much higher than gres and clinker, so its use in private households is less common.

Adhesive for laying tiles on plinths

The characteristics of the adhesive mixture must correspond to both the operating conditions and the cladding, so as not to negate the advantages of the tile. To properly lay the foundation with ceramics, you need to use compositions for external work, for example, Ceresit CM 117, Isomat AK-22, Ferozit, Baumit Flex Top, Baumit Flex Uni, Scanmix Multisuper and Scanmix Plastics.

The main factor when finishing the base is the use of glue for exterior use.

These are highly elastic adhesives with good adhesion, neutralizing stress in the cladding during temperature changes and designed for cladding material with a water absorption of less than 0.3% (porcelain stoneware, clinker).

Adhesives Baumit Flex and Baumit Flex Uni

Grout mixtures for finishing foundations

Grout for tiles on the base must also be elastic and frost-resistant. In addition, the color of the grout mixture should fit into the interior, that is, either effectively contrast with the color of the tiles, or, conversely, match it.

Grout mixtures Ceresit, Litochrom and Starlike Monomix

An example of the correct choice of grout for cladding a plinth are cement-based mixtures Litochrom 3-15 (joint thickness 3-15 mm), Litochrom 1-6 Luxury (1-6 mm), Camonica (5-30 mm? 14 colors), ready-made compositions on a polyurethane base CE40 Ceresit “Anthracite” (black) and Starlike Monomix (1-6 mm, available in 12 colors).

Consumption of materials

The need for tiles is calculated depending on the type and format of the material.

If the material is flat tiles, then its consumption is equal to the area of ​​the plinth with an addition of 5% for trimming, and the area of ​​the plinth is determined by multiplying its perimeter in meters by the height.

If the base is planned to be finished with clinker “like a brick,” then the need for flat cladding (in square meters) and the consumption of corner elements (in linear meters) intended for laying on slopes are determined separately. As a rule, there is no need to make such a calculation yourself - the salesperson in the store, having received the quadrature of the base and the linear length of the corners and slopes, will name the amount of material required for finishing.

The consumption of adhesives for laying tiles and grouting is indicated on the packaging in kilograms per square meter, therefore, knowing the quadrature of the base, it is not difficult to calculate the need for adhesive.

Surface Requirements

We will assume that the base is laid out without deviations in the vertical plane, and preparing the base does not require time-consuming and labor-intensive leveling of the surface by plastering.

At the time finishing work begins, the building’s blind area should already be constructed, since the bottom row of tiles should hang over the surface of the blind area, forming a junction that maximizes the drainage of water from the walls and foundation.

Base finishing methods

There are two ways to lay the outer part of the foundation - “dry” and “wet”, which differ from each other in materials and execution technology.

Dry method

A tile or fragments of several tiles are mounted on the base, firmly fixed on a base made of a sheet of extruded polystyrene foam of a certain shape. The edges of the base have mounting locks for connection with adjacent fragments. This cladding, which has a layer of insulation, is mounted directly on the base or on a frame pre-fixed to it using special self-tapping screws. After installation is completed, the joints between the tiles are filled and grouted with a cement mixture to protect the polystyrene foam at the joints.

Wet finish

The wet tiling method is more common and consists of traditional laying of tiles on an adhesive mixture, followed by grouting the joints.

Wet method using adhesive when installing ceramic tiles

In most cases, the base is faced over previously completed insulation and waterproofing of its outer surface to prevent freezing of the foundation and the appearance of condensation on the walls of the basement.

Reinforcement

Before reinforcement begins, the surface of the waterproofing is primed with one of the compounds that increases adhesion, for example, Novol Plus 700. After the primer has dried, a layer of a special reinforcing mixture, for example, “Baugut” 3-5 mm thick or tile adhesive on which it is planned to be laid, is applied on top of the waterproofing layer with a spatula. tiles Then, without waiting for the mixture to set, a steel or nylon armored reinforcing mesh is embedded in glue over the entire base and reinforced, which will increase the load-bearing capacity of the adhesive layer.

Reinforcing mixture, such as Baugut and Novol Plus 700

For this purpose, you can use, for example, alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh for external insulation systems SSA 1111 or SSA 1111 Valmiera. The reinforcing mesh is attached to the foundation with steel dowels or concrete screws using large diameter washers, so that there are no bubbles on its surface.

The adhesive layer is leveled over the surface of the recessed mesh with a wide paint spatula. After a day, the base is ready for cladding, the beginning of which should not be delayed - adhesion with a fresh adhesive mixture is better, and the base does not require priming.

Laying tiles

Taking into account the large length of the foundation and possible deviations of the interface between the blind area and the wall from the horizontal, the first row of tiles is placed on a support bar attached strictly horizontally along the perimeter of the building. The plank should be as narrow as possible, since after its dismantling there will be a gap that will need to be sealed with grout.

If there are ventilation windows in the base, then the ceramics between them are laid according to pre-made markings, leading the rows from slope to slope towards each other so that the tiles cut if necessary do not end up on the corner.

The tiles are cut using a grinder with a dry cutter.

The high density and frost resistance of porcelain stoneware or clinker does not mean a complete absence of temperature deformations, therefore, laying tiles is carried out with the obligatory installation of joints, the minimum width of which must be 2 mm.

When choosing ceramics, it is very important to pay attention to its performance characteristics

If the artistic finishing solution involves seamless installation, then the grouting composition is selected to match the color of the tile. To make tile joints of a fixed thickness, plastic crosses of the appropriate size are used.

Having brought the finishing to the level where the plinth extension ends, you should fill the space between the last row of tiles and the wall with cement mortar or tile adhesive. The last row of ceramics is laid on top of the end of the plinth with an outward slope of 10-15 degrees. The joining ends of the tiles of the last vertical and horizontal rows are ground down at an angle with a “rubber cutter” until there is no gap in their connection.

The adhesive is applied to the back side of the tile with a flat spatula and evenly distributed, after which its excess is removed with a “comb” with tooth sizes selected for the adhesive layer. The thickness of the adhesive mixture on the tiles should be from 5 to 10 mm.

2-3 days after the installation is completed, they begin to fill the tile joints.

Grouting joints

The technology for filling the joints of the plinth cladding does not differ from the identical execution of internal work. Grouting of joints, depending on their width, is done with a rubber spatula or a construction syringe, followed by compaction of the mixture and giving the joint profile a certain shape using a jointing spatula.

The final stage of tiling the plinth is grouting the joints

When finishing with gres, excess mixture is removed 15-20 minutes after grouting, when the bulk of the glue in the joint has set. It is better to remove excess glue and dirt from clinker tiles immediately, since later it will be more difficult to clean its porous structure.

Conclusion

Facing the base with clinker tiles or porcelain stoneware is a costly operation, but the durability of the many positive characteristics that the foundation acquires after its production pays for all costs. And if you take into account the possibility of performing such finishing yourself, which will provide significant cost savings, then this technology for arranging the foundation becomes even more attractive, which explains its popularity.

The main advantage of facade tiles is, perhaps, its high aesthetics. Any building, even the most unpresentable in appearance, after finishing with facade tiles, takes on the appearance of a luxurious mansion that can satisfy even the most ambitious person. But beauty is not the only advantage of the material, which today is becoming more and more in demand on the Russian market.

Facade tiles - durable facing material

What are façade tiles?

Facade tiles - a general designation for tiles for exterior decoration

The name “facade” only means the area of ​​application, that is, it indicates that this material is intended for exterior decoration of the house. As for the practical properties of facade tiles, they can be different: tiles are made from natural and artificial stone, porcelain stoneware, sand-cement compositions, agglomerate or ceramics.

The most widespread are porcelain stoneware tiles. It is obtained by subjecting a mixture of several mineral components (the so-called press powder) to pressing at high pressure and temperature. The result is a material that is superior to even natural stone in many respects.

The variety of shapes of facade tiles is very large. Most often these are square or rectangular plates. The dimensions of their sides can range from 20...120 cm, thickness - 7...30 mm.

Advantages of facade tiles

The material has excellent operational and technological properties:

Facade tiles are universal in use

• Can be used for finishing houses made of any material - brick, gas or foam concrete, wood;
• It has very high protective properties - both against mechanical and atmospheric influences;
• It has a huge number of color and texture options. In this regard, facade tiles can satisfy the most demanding taste;
• Virtually no maintenance or repair required;
• Can be easily dismantled and reused;
• Has high frost resistance. This characteristic is more characteristic of porcelain stoneware tiles, the moisture absorption of which is 100 times less than that of natural granite (0.05% versus 5%, respectively).
• Has a long service life. It is difficult to talk about exact time parameters, but the material with which the houses were decorated in the 60s of the last century still does not show any signs of aging or destruction.

Read also the article about the advantages of facade tiles with fastenings in addition to this material.

Methods for installing facade tiles

Known two ways finishing the facade with decorative tiles:

• attaching the tiles directly to the base using glue (this method is called “wet”);
• installation on a lathing fixed to the wall (dry method).

Read also about installing cassette façade cladding with your own hands on our portal.

Installation options for facade tiles

Each of these types of installation has its own characteristics. Fastening with glue is carried out mainly on brick or gas and foam concrete walls. This method ensures the solidity of the wall and the strength of the cladding, but is quite labor-intensive work.

Installation of facade tiles on the sheathing is more universal. It can be carried out at any time of the year on walls made of any material, including walls made of wood. The “dry” method makes it possible to insulate the walls simultaneously with cladding.

Installation of facade tiles with glue

Scheme for installing tiles with glue

Before you start laying the tiles directly on the wall, you need to level the base. This is done by plastering. The technology of work in this case is no different from the usual one, except that there is a mandatory requirement to use a reinforcing mesh. Its purpose is to ensure high adhesion strength of the plaster to the wall.

General tile installation procedure as follows:

• The wall is cleaned of dirt and primed;
• A layer of plaster is applied into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. After this, another layer of the mixture is applied and the surface is carefully leveled. It is desirable that the total thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 2 cm;
• The adhesive composition is prepared in strict accordance with the instructions;

  Video instructions for installing clinker tiles with glue

• Before applying adhesive to the tile and wall, both surfaces must be moistened with water. It is most convenient to apply the adhesive composition using a notched trowel;
• Installation of tiles begins from the bottom corner of the wall and extends upward and to the side. The tile is applied to the wall and pressed tightly against it - so that a bead of squeezed out glue appears on all sides;
• After installation, the seams are unstitched and rubbed with a special compound. The correctly chosen grout color gives the facade an even more aesthetic appearance.

Installation of facade tiles on lathing

The method is based on mechanical fastening of the material to the base. The role of the latter is played by a wooden (from timber, board) or metal (from a special galvanized profile) sheathing

Read what types of facade tiles there are and get answers to your questions.

Tiles intended for mechanical fastening have embedded elements (for example, galvanized sheet plates). The exact order and method of attaching the material is specified in the instructions for it. In general terms it is as follows.

Scheme for installing tiles on a frame

• To ensure that the rows of tiles are even and positioned strictly vertically and horizontally, before installing the sheathing, horizontal markings are made along the entire perimeter of the building using a level. It is a guideline for attaching horizontal and vertical frame elements.
• The method of attaching beams or profiles to the wall depends on the material from which the wall is made. For brick and lightweight concrete foundations, dowels or frame anchors are used. For wooden ones - screws or nails. The sheathing pitch depends on the size and configuration of the façade tiles.
• If the house is insulated at the same time as the cladding, insulation is placed between the beams (or profiles) of the frame. A waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane is attached on top of it. There must be a gap between the back side of the tile and the surface of the membrane necessary for ventilation of the façade structure/
• As in all similar cases, the installation of slabs begins from the bottom corner of the wall and extends upward and to the side. It is very important to control the horizontal and vertical rows. The slabs are fastened using the fasteners that come with the cladding. Usually these are screws or self-tapping screws.

Video instructions for installing facade tiles on lathing (on frame)

Explore alsoReturn to list

Concrete facade tiles: advantages and disadvantages

Facade tiles with fastenings for self-tapping screws

Specifics of installation of porcelain tiles when finishing facades

Facade tiling: materials and finishing options

Stone-look facade panels for exterior decoration of the house

Types of molds for the production of facade tiles and methods of their manufacture

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The base is negatively affected by precipitation and mechanical damage. If the foundation waterproofing is damaged, its basement quickly darkens and white salt stains appear on it. You can avoid all this by cleaning it up.

To finish the base, plaster, natural stone, siding and ceramic granite are used. Materials differ in properties and cost per square meter. Porcelain tiles for plinth cladding occupy a worthy place in terms of their physical and operational characteristics.

Theoretical part

Before starting cladding work, you need to have a general understanding of the finishing object and the material used.

The basement is an above-ground continuation of the foundation of the house, which consists of reinforced concrete blocks or red ceramic bricks. It protects the walls of the building from groundwater, retains heat and distributes the load.

Important! Before you start covering the base, you need to check the waterproofing. It must cover both the underground and above-ground parts of the building.

The basement of a house comes in three types:

1. Protrudes beyond the plane of the main wall, forming a step. Water from the roof gets onto the step, so it is covered with galvanized flashing.
2. The wall and base are located in the same plane. This option is preferable when constructing a single facade from ground to roof.
3. The base is recessed beyond the plane of the outer wall. No special protection measures are required.

All three location models require a drainage system to remove precipitation from the roof.

Ceramic granite

This is an artificial stone made of clay, sand and other aggregates, compressed at high temperature and under high pressure. To cover the base, square and rectangular tiles with a thickness of 3 mm to several centimeters are used.

According to its external structure it is divided:

• Glazed porcelain tiles. It has a very low water absorption coefficient;
• Porcelain tiles without glazing. The most durable of artificial stones;
• With a relief surface. Imitates natural finishing materials;
• Porcelain tiles coated with wax. Rarely used for decoration;
• With polished surface;
• With a matte surface.

Important! Ceramic granite on the basement wall does not experience significant mechanical stress. You can use thin tiles.

Advantages

Laying porcelain stoneware on a plinth allows you to get a number of advantages compared to finishing with other materials:

1. Wear resistance. The tiles do not fade in the sun, do not weather or become deformed.
2. Resistance to temperature changes and their maximum values.
3. Low water absorption coefficient.
4. Long service life.
5. Ease of maintenance. Thanks to the finely porous structure of the outer surface, the tile practically does not absorb dirt. Therefore, it is easy to clean using available products.

Technology of cladding work

It is quite possible to install porcelain stoneware on the plinth yourself. There are two main ways:

1. Ventilated porcelain stoneware plinth.
2. Cladding the plinth with porcelain tiles on glue.

Let's look at each of them separately:

Ventilated porcelain stoneware plinth

A feature of the technology is the presence of a small indentation between the tile and the insulation layer through which air circulates. The base is constantly ventilated, the insulation does not get wet and does not rot. The porcelain tiles are fastened to the base using the frame. Usually, the entire facade is finished in this way, and not its individual sections. The technology is rarely used for finishing cottages.

Work order

1. Surface repair. All mortar deposits are removed and potholes are filled. You can treat the surface of the base with an antiseptic to prevent the development of fungus.
2. Marking. Using a laser level and tape measure, vertical and horizontal lines with mounting points for the brackets are drawn on the wall. If the profile is installed vertically, then the horizontal distance between the brackets depends on the size of the ceramic tiles, usually 300-800 mm. The vertical distance between the brackets is 600-1200 mm. If the profile is installed horizontally, then the opposite is true. The minimum distance for installing brackets from the corner is 100 mm.
3. Installation of brackets. A hole is drilled for each element. Then the bracket is pressed against the wall, and a plastic dowel is inserted. A screw is screwed into it. You can use fasteners with variable lengths to level out wall unevenness.
4. A T-shaped or U-shaped supporting profile is attached to the brackets using metal screws.
5. Basalt mineral wool is inserted into the cells between the profiles. It is attached with special glue with additional fixation with plastic dowels.
6. The entire base is covered with a membrane protective material, which allows steam to pass through from the inside, but retains moisture from the outside.
7. The tiles are attached to the frame using clamps.

Cladding the plinth with porcelain tiles on glue

A popular method of finishing the above-ground part of the foundation. It can be used both as part of a complex façade decoration and separately.

The plinth can be faced with porcelain stoneware with or without insulation. When insulating, several stages are added.

Work order

1. The surface of the base is cleaned of dust and primed. The soil increases the adhesive properties of the stone.
2. If the base is uneven, then a layer of cement-based plaster is applied. You can use both regular cement-sand and special façade. Layer thickness 20-30 mm. If the difference is more significant, the wall is reinforced with galvanized plaster mesh, which is secured with self-tapping dowels. The plastered surface will be ready for tiling in 48 hours.
3. Installation of insulation. Extruded polystyrene foam is used. A special glue is applied to each sheet over the entire surface with a notched trowel. Then the sheet is applied to the wall and fixed for 10 seconds. To prevent heavy ceramic granite from collapsing the insulation, each sheet is additionally secured with 5 dowels with a round head. The glue will gain strength after 48 hours.
4. The insulated wall is primed and covered with sickle mesh.
5. Then we glue the porcelain tiles onto the plinth. At the bottom of the plinth you can install a profile on which the artificial stone cladding will rest. Laying tiles starts from the bottom corner. First the first row goes through, then the rest.

Special glue is applied to the inner surface of the tile using a comb spatula. The tiles are then attached to the base of the wall. To maintain the same distance between the tiles, crosses are inserted.

If ceramic granite is laid without insulation, then after leveling the base is primed and tiled in the manner described above.

Important! The glue is applied to the entire tile, not just the middle. If this is not done, then voids will form between the wall and the ceramic granite, which negatively affect the strength characteristics of the finished surface.

Preparing a base for porcelain tiles does not take much time. You can lay the tiles yourself, and the result justifies all the efforts. The beautiful and durable lower part of the building made of stone will not fade for a long time and will not lose its appearance.

The exterior decoration of a house can be done in a variety of ways, from applying plastering materials to various methods of installing siding.

The choice of one type of finish or another depends on the capabilities of the owner, his aesthetic preferences or the availability of a certain material.

In addition, the choice is often based on the ability to perform the work independently.

In this regard, facade tiles are a material that has the widest range of possibilities.

Unlike siding or facade panels, which have a certain general technological installation sequence, facade tiles are available in many versions and do not have a uniform installation technique.

Depending on the design, it can be laid using traditional technology, or installed using methods similar to the siding installation technique. The main difference between facade tiles and other types of exterior finishing is the independent installation of each element, a wide variety of types, materials and appearance.

Types of facade tiles

Facade tiles are a material that has many different types of manufacturing and installation options.

Installation possible:

• For glue. The method is most similar to the methods of laying tiled coverings.
• For fastening materials (screws, clamps, etc.).

Can be used for the manufacture of facade cladding:

• Porcelain tiles, artificial stone.
• Cement mortar.
• Plastic (polypropylene, vinyl, etc.).
• Fiber cement compositions.
• Polymer sand.
• Basalt.
• Asbestos-cement, etc.

By type it differs into:

• ceramic;
• clinker;
• wood effect tiles;
• concrete;
• flexible;
• polymer sand;
• terracotta;
• basement;
• under a stone;
• under brick;
• basement;
• bitumen.

The main task of facade cladding is to form a protective coating for the house that can withstand external atmospheric manifestations and has high decorative qualities. There is a special attitude towards the appearance of the finishing, since it is the external effect that is the first thing that catches your eye when looking at any house.

In this regard, facade tiles break all records - they have the largest number of types of imitation stone or wooden surfaces. All design options used in the production of siding, facade panels and other cladding are used in the manufacture of facade tiles.

NOTE!

Unlike all types of exterior cladding, some types of facade tiles can be quite successfully made with your own hands. Basically, this is the casting of various cement-containing solutions into existing molds from special latex. This method is attractive because the production of the material is carried out directly on site. In addition, if any section fails, there will be no problems with replacing the cladding.

Accessories for facade tiles

The presence of components is not typical for all types of facade tiles. Many types of material are laid using conventional technology and do not require additional elements. This situation is typical for small material.

If the elements are quite large in size, then it will not be easy to do without specialized parts. Typically, corner profiles are made that make it possible to carefully line the outer (in some cases, inner) corners of the house.

In addition, fastening elements - clamps, mounting brackets, etc. can be used as component materials. For some types of material, manufacturers provide for the creation of a subsystem - a supporting structure for installation to form a ventilation facade.

At the same time, most types of tiles intended for dry installation are not strictly tied to the type of subsystem and can be installed on any planks - wooden or metal.

Plastering and surface reinforcement

Tiles that are installed with adhesive require a smooth and uniform base. The walls of a house, especially if the building is older, may have a large number of different flaws - cracks, dents, peeling or crumbling areas. In addition, external insulation can be installed on the wall surface, requiring a dense layer to be applied on top for laying the tiles.

The best base is considered to be a layer of plaster. If it is applied to a rigid base, then you can do without reinforcement, but if you are plastering relatively soft insulation, or the wall material is loose and prone to crumbling, then for the strength or resistance of the plaster to mechanical stress you will need to use a reinforcing mesh.

A metal or fiberglass mesh is used, which is installed on the insulation or on the wall and a layer of plaster is applied on top of it.

When using beacons (guides) to level the surface of the plaster layer, the reinforcing mesh is installed in advance, before installing the beacons.

It is necessary to understand that the presence of a mesh does not prevent cracks from appearing or strengthens the wall material. The mesh serves to increase the strength of the plaster, without contributing to the strength of adhesion to wall materials. Therefore, on problem walls, before plastering, all weak areas should be removed as much as possible, after which a layer of deep penetration primer should be applied.

When plastering over insulation, first of all you need to apply a layer of mortar onto it with a notched trowel, lightly press the mesh into it, then, on top of it, apply another layer. Then the mesh will be inside the layer, which will allow it to perform its functions to the maximum extent.

Surface preparation

The wall surface should be cleared of all foreign objects attached to it - remove all lights, disconnect trims, gutters, brackets, air conditioners, etc. Then you should carefully inspect the wall, determining the quality of the surface, the condition of the material and the number of problem areas.

Existing cracks should be opened with a spatula to ensure their depth and to facilitate access to the plaster material. Delaminations or shedding must be removed as much as possible; the entire wall must be strong, without problem areas, and reliable.

After cleaning the wall, apply a double coat of primer with an intermediate drying period. It is recommended to pre-fill large potholes with mortar so that the subsequent layer is more even.

Surface marking

If you plan to install tiles on a subsystem, then preliminary marking of the surface will be required. It is necessary that the location of the sheathing strips corresponds to the tile attachment points. To do this, measure the distance between adjacent fastening elements vertically and horizontally and, taking into account the obtained values, apply markings on the wall with the resulting pitch.

When performing the operation, it is necessary to control the horizontal and vertical using a building level. If you plan to use corner profiles, then when marking you should take into account the features of their installation and ensure the appropriate arrangement of the strips.

Setting the initial (starting) bar

The tile starter strip serves as a reference line to ensure that the first (bottom) row is installed level and level. Since the design of the façade tiles does not have any lock connecting to the starting strip, an ordinary flat strip of any material is sufficient to support the bottom row; later it will still be removed.

Installation of the starting strip is carried out along a line drawn along the perimeter of the house strictly horizontally and corresponding to the bottom cut of the first row of tiles.

Methods of fixing tiles

Depending on the design, the method of fastening facade tiles may be different.:

• “Wet” method - using an adhesive composition. Specialized types of adhesives are used that are intended for tile materials (porcelain tiles, fiber cement, clinker, etc.).
• Fastening with self-tapping screws. It is possible to have a hidden fastening (hidden seam), or open with a visible fastening location.
• The use of various mechanical fasteners - for example, clamps. With this method, fixation is carried out using specialized devices that best match the material used in size and other indicators, but significant secrecy of the fasteners cannot be achieved - the clamps are visible on the surface of the tile. If the size is small, this spoils the overall appearance of the cladding.
• Facade tiles with metal fasteners.

Typically, each type of tile is designed for a specific installation method, which cannot be changed.

Preparation of the adhesive composition

To lay tiles, you should use specialized or, at a minimum, types of adhesives that are most suitable for their characteristics. It is sold in dry form and must be diluted with water to a certain consistency.

The thickness of the finished solution should be such that the glue can be applied freely, does not drain from the surface, but is not too viscous. There are a great variety of types of glue; to avoid possible errors, you should read the instructions for use on the packaging.

Accurate adherence to the instructions, adherence to the dilution ratio and the holding time of the composition before use increase the strength of the adhesive and its adhesion to the tile and base.

Tile laying technology

The tiles are laid from the bottom up in the direction corresponding to its design (especially if there is a hidden seam). The glue is applied with a notched trowel to the surface of the wall and to the tile, and the direction of the glue strips should be transverse - if the lines on the wall are horizontal, then on the tile they are vertical.

NOTE!

For most types of tiles, pre-soaking is not necessary, but the porous surface of the base must be moistened with water.

How to tile corners and openings

If there are appropriate corner profiles for the tiles, then they are used to decorate the outer corners of the house and window or door openings. If such elements are not provided, then the corners are formed in the same way as when applying ordinary tiles - by precise adjustment of the material and careful installation in the corners.

In any case, the outer corners are tiled first, then the window and door openings are decorated. If there are corner profiles, then the openings are formed with them, but if only tiles are used, then the slopes should first be faced, and the outer frame of the opening is made integral with the wall canvas.

Grouting joints

The seams between the tiles must be grouted, i.e. filling gaps to prevent water from entering wall materials. For grouting, the same types of adhesive are used that were used during installation, or special compositions for external use; the method of application depends on the type of tile and its design features.

At the same time, not all types of tiles need grouting, but only those that are installed with glue and have gaps. When applying grout, you must be careful as many types of grout are difficult to remove from the tile surface. It is recommended to remove excess glue immediately before it sets.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to lay facade tiles:

Conclusion

Using facade tiles is a more labor-intensive option for exterior finishing than, for example, installing siding, but as a result you can get your own version of the coating. Many options for choosing both material and pattern or color of the tiles make it possible to embody many design ideas and create a strong decorative effect.

At the same time, the protective properties of the tiles, which provide protection from atmospheric moisture and the effects of temperature, make it possible to increase the service life of the walls of the house.

Various materials used in the construction of building walls require the use of different finishing methods. Concrete has increased hardness and the ability to absorb moisture, which can make finishing concrete surfaces difficult. Before gluing ceramic tiles to a concrete wall, it is necessary to evaluate the evenness and ability of the wall surface to adhere to the glue. Possible difficulties when gluing tiles to concrete walls were laid down even during the pouring of concrete mortar during construction.

The fact is that modern technologies for the construction of reinforced concrete buildings involve the use of reusable formwork panels. A sheet of special plywood is attached to the steel frame of the shield, the surface of which forms the surface of the wall. To prevent the plywood from sticking to the mortar, its front side is treated with a special lubricant, which penetrates the surface layer of concrete and subsequently impairs its adhesion.

The unevenness of the walls and corners is a consequence of poorly assembled formwork, which, when pouring the solution, could bend or completely separate at the joints. Unevenness can also be caused by careless sealing of cracks in the joints of walls and ceilings. Often outlets and switches are on top of dome-shaped projections for the same reason.

Preparing a concrete wall

Applying any coating to a wall requires preparing its surface - removing grease (if any) and ensuring the required roughness. Old coating (paint, wallpaper, whitewash) must be removed. But if the old oil paint holds firmly, it is enough to mat it with coarse-grained (No. 40 - 60) sandpaper, a wire brush, etc. The greater the depth and number of scratches, the stronger the connection between the coating and the wall will become.

Next, you need to remove (wash off) the dust and begin degreasing the concrete if it contains lubricant. It is in this sequence - when treating a wall with ingrained grease with sandpaper or a brush, oil contaminants are rubbed into the scratches and the applied coating (primer, putty, cement, etc.) will not adhere well.

Degreasing is carried out with white spirit, a special degreaser or soda ash. But it is undesirable to work with white spirit indoors - it has a strong odor and its fumes are toxic. This also applies to other solvents.

A degreaser is good if the wall is small - due to the price, it is not the most budget option.

The most accessible is soda ash, sold in household chemicals departments. It must be dissolved in hot water and applied to the wall with a rag. If necessary, repeat the procedure until the grease is removed. You need to wear gloves when working - it is a strong alkali. After degreasing, wash off the sediment with warm water.

Wall alignment

Considering that the tiles will be glued to a special grout or cement, which allows you to level the surface due to the thickness of the adhesive layer, leveling the walls is sometimes done only in certain areas.

Sludges of concrete can be knocked down with a hammer, a hammer drill, or removed with a concrete solvent. Dips are sealed with putty or cement. There is no need to “smooth” the walls perfectly - the tiles and adhesive layer will complete the leveling. In places where the expected thickness of the leveling compound will be more than 1 cm, you need to make notches with a hammer drill, grinder with a diamond wheel or chisel for better adhesion to the wall.

If the curvatures of the walls and corners are multiple, then they can be leveled by securing a metal plaster mesh over the entire area and installing slats of the same thickness as beacons. If the wall area is large, break it into several sections with beacons - this makes it easier to navigate.

Wall marking

Before you begin laying ceramic tiles, make preliminary calculations. Tiles are not wallpaper, and the slightest mistake at the beginning will complicate the work when joining them in corners, in places where faucets, sinks and other equipment are installed.

If the sink is easy to remove, remove it. An even and beautiful joining line between the tile row and the bathtub can be ensured by gluing a plastic or aluminum profile. Also, a profile or corner will help out when joining tiles on external or internal corners, if it is difficult to trim the tiles evenly to size.

The unevenness of the floor can be compensated for by securing a metal or wooden straight strip or profile to install the first (lower) row, setting it horizontally in level.

Compare the dimensions of the tiles and walls in advance. In order to ensure that the tiles are cut symmetrically on different sides of the wall (if you wish), model the future appearance of the wall to scale on paper, taking into account the gaps between the tiles.

Symmetrical installation will give the wall a complete appearance. It is best to place the first tile approximately in the middle of the wall and not lay a whole row at once, but move from the middle alternately in different directions - this method of laying allows you to adjust the straightness of the rows and, as a result, the harmonious appearance of the wall.

But it’s easier to glue the tiles, moving from bottom to top. The first row is laid along a fixed rail or profile. To regulate the protrusion of the tiles along the plane, at a distance of about 5 mm from the future surface of the row, you need to pull the cord, securing its ends with self-tapping screws screwed into dowels. The protrusion of the tile is regulated by the thickness of the adhesive layer.

Laying process

The accuracy of installation and gluing of the first tile determines how accurately the rest will be laid. It is necessary to control the laying level.

Before gluing the tiles, be sure to apply a primer to the wall with a brush or roller. It is not advisable to use a sprayer; the primer must be rubbed into the surface to ensure good adhesion to the wall.

It is advisable to glue the tiles before the primer has completely dried - then the tile adhesive will adhere to it better. The most effective is double priming - the first layer fills the pores in the concrete or putty and prevents the tile adhesive from drying quickly afterwards. Concrete quickly absorbs moisture, which can cause cracking and peeling of the adhesive layer. It is recommended to apply the primer a second time no more than an hour before gluing the tiles, so during the work process, apply the primer as you lay the rows, allowing it to dry.

The gaps between the tiles are established using plastic crosses.

Tile adhesive must be mixed in warm water, preferably using an electric tool. The consistency should be such that the solution is held on a vertical surface without slipping. Different manufacturers use different combinations of components, so carefully read the instructions for use.

Apply the adhesive solution to the tile so that it can be moved, setting a gap. To do this, scratch a layer 5 - 6 mm thick with a notched trowel; thicker ones should be applied in the form of bumps. This ensures the mobility of the tiles during installation and a more dense shrinkage of the adhesive.

Trimming tiles

Adjusting the tiles to size (trimming) is possible with a tile cutter, glass cutter and a grinder with a diamond wheel. Glaze chips are smoothed out using abrasive materials of various grain sizes.

Before finishing work - grouting joints, treating joints with sealant - give the glue time to dry.

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Adhesive for porcelain tiles

• Ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, mosaics, dry mixes, faucets, sanitaryware, shower cabins, bathtubs, heated towel rails
• Ceramic tiles, ceramic granite, mosaic, sanitary ware HATRIA
• Ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, tile adhesive
• Insulation, profile, drywall, gypsum, mixture, glue
• Adhesives, primers, waterproofing, plaster and putty mixtures, grout mixtures, LITOTHERM facade insulation system

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How to glue a fallen tile?

Before you begin gluing the fallen tiles, you need to make sure that the ceramic coating next to it is well adhered to the wall surface. All tiles that do not adhere well to the wall must be re-glued. You can glue the fallen tiles using liquid nails or a special adhesive mixture. Experts strongly recommend using an adhesive mixture, as it allows you to achieve a much better result.

The main advantage of using liquid nails is that they do not require removal from the surface of the wall of the adhesive mixture already present on it (usually cement). However, there is no guarantee that the tiles will not fall off again when using such adhesive. So, the work of gluing the fallen tiles begins with preparing the base of the wall. The essence of the preparation is to remove the old adhesive mixture from the wall surface.

It is important to note that this is not always easy to do, because the solution can stick very well. In this case, you must act carefully so as not to knock the nearby tile away from the wall, and also not to spoil its appearance.

It is necessary to carefully remove the old adhesive mixture from the surface of the fallen tiles. After removing the old mortar, the freed section of the wall must be primed.

So, as noted above, to glue fallen tiles it is better to use a special building mixture, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

To work, you will also need a building level, which will allow you to glue the fallen tiles level with the wall surface. The seams between the newly glued tiles are cleaned of the adhesive mixture, preventing it from drying out. A day later, the seams are sealed with a special construction grout for ceramic tiles.

Among other things, it is worth noting that falling tiles, as a rule, indicate that the installation work was carried out poorly. Therefore, it is necessary to think about repairs, otherwise the tiles may soon swell. All these recommendations are also suitable if the tiles have fallen off the floor.

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How can concrete itself and other materials be glued to concrete?

It is possible to glue materials of different compositions, you just need to choose a suitable adhesive base. It would seem how you can connect concrete and metal, or attach glass to it, but this is done with the help of special adhesive solutions and products. During the construction of houses and their subsequent finishing, it is supposed to glue various surfaces to concrete, including concrete to concrete, and not only the decorative part, but also the stability of the walls of the room sometimes depends on the reliability of their adhesion.

How to glue concrete together

During the construction process, moments arise when it becomes necessary to glue concrete structures together. Concrete is an artificial stone that can be glued with epoxy or furyl adhesives.

To make the structure rigid, the top layer is knocked off the old concrete and then thoroughly cleaned; small particles of dust and debris are also removed from its surface and a portion of a composition containing glue and hardener is applied. It is spread over the gluing surface with a spatula or brush and a new concrete structure is immediately laid on it. To glue it together, resin compounds are used, which are used in the cold method.

In this article you can find out what geopolymer concrete is.

How to glue other materials to concrete

These materials are intended for insulating the external walls of a house, therefore, in order to glue them to its concrete surface, it is necessary that the adhesive meets the following characteristics:

• withstands temperature changes;
• hardened quickly;
• did not contain solvents that would dissolve the insulation surfaces;
• glued securely;
• was easy to use.

Birss concrete contact consumption during house construction or renovation work can be read in the article.

Cement-polymer compositions and bitumen mastics meet these requirements. The latter are plastic and have good waterproofing. Before applying polymer glue, it is necessary to carry out a deep primer. It can be used not only for exterior work that requires frost resistance, but also for interior work. For example, when laying polystyrene foam on a heated floor. Its extruded form is also glued to concrete using bitumen adhesive.

From the article you can find out what grade of concrete is needed for a strip foundation.

Selecting a binder for plastic, as well as plastic and PVC panels

For gluing the latter to a concrete surface, the multi-purpose “Moment Germent” is well suited, which can properly glue these two surfaces.

Plastic is connected to concrete using conventional Titan construction adhesive, which has excellent adhesion and moisture resistance.

Also, “Liquid Nails” are well suited for gluing plastic surfaces with cement. This glue can be purchased in the form of a dry mixture, which consists of cement and polymers.

In the article you can find out what kind of concrete is needed for the foundation of a house.

For reliable adhesion of two different structures, it is necessary to clean the concrete surface, putty and level it, otherwise the smooth plastic surface will not stick. PVC panels are pressed to the concrete plane using a building level and leveled along the entire length; adjustments to their location can be carried out within an hour. The glue will completely harden only after three days.

In construction, it would be useful to know about concrete GOST 26633 2012.

Wood, laminate, plywood, parquet and sandwich panels

Modern adhesive materials make it possible to glue even wooden surfaces to concrete. Before carrying out this work, it is necessary to prepare the cement surface and walk over it with a special primer, which will subsequently protect the joints from the accumulation of dirt and moisture.

To ensure that the parquet board is securely fixed to the floor, epoxy or polyurethane glue is used. The latter consists of a hardener, solvent and filler. It comes in both solid and liquid states. Most often used in the form of liquid quick-setting mastic. It has good sealing and electrical insulating properties, but if there are sudden changes in air in the room, it is better to replace it with epoxy glue.

Ruberoid

At the beginning of construction, literally at the final stage of constructing the foundation, the question arises of its sealing, which roofing felt can provide. It is attached to concrete using bitumen mastic. It is applied with a roller to the cement surface. Then, together with the roofing felt, it is heated for better adhesion and glued, placing improvised weights on top.

It will be interesting to know what is the consumption of aerated concrete glue per 1 m3.

Metal with stone

Even such incompatible materials can be glued. A two-component epoxy composition can act as their reliable binder. It contains:

• a mixture of epoxy resin with filler and plasticizer;
• combination of thixotropic additive and hardener.

In this article, you can emphasize for yourself which foundation is suitable for a house made of aerated concrete.

To obtain glue, these two components are mixed immediately before construction work and applied to the prepared surfaces.

Linoleum and glass with concrete

They are glued to the cement wall using double-sided construction tape. To securely fix them, it is necessary to prepare the working plane: clean, level and prime. If linoleum is glued, do not lay it on the old coating. It is necessary to remove it and, if necessary, make a new screed so that the floor is level.

Anyone who wants to build a house for themselves from a durable material such as concrete, it will be important to know about all the pros and cons of aerated concrete blocks.

Apply adhesive tape with a liner to the intended location of linoleum, glass or mirror. When working with the floor covering, remove it gradually, gluing the canvas in parts. And for glass, completely remove the tape from the liner and immediately stick it on so that dust does not get on the adhesive base.

Hardboard

This material is nothing more than fiberboard. They are often used as flooring, so there is a need to attach them to a concrete surface. For these purposes, many people use PVA glue, but when choosing it, you should take into account that the water-based composition is not suitable for such work. Because when the glue dries, water will get into the slabs and may warp them.