The electric motor of failed washing machines is often used to create new devices. They are used to make grinding, drilling machines, generators, circular saws, concrete mixers - the imagination of folk craftsmen knows no bounds. Do you also want to join the ranks of craftsmen by putting an old motor to good use? We will tell you how to connect the washing machine motor at home (garage).

Determining the type of engine

Turning on the engine depends on the type. Therefore, before connecting the motor, it is advisable to find out which mechanism you got. Washing machine packages include three types:

• asynchronous;
• collector;
• inverter (brushless).

Asynchronous washing machine motor

Installed in cars manufactured before 2000. The engine of a semi-automatic machine has 2800 rotations per minute, power 180–360 W. To adapt such an engine for garage “homemade” products, you need a three-phase network, a frequency converter, and a set of capacitors. This is expensive, which is why asynchronous systems are not popular among do-it-yourselfers. But if you come across just such a copy, you don’t have to worry about technical difficulties. The design of the engine is simple and easy to maintain.

Brushed motor

A favorite of the masters. Operates on direct or alternating electric current, power 300–800 W, armature rotation speed 11,500–15,000 rpm. On the plus side, the cycle can be easily adjusted without loss of power. The downside is that the brushes wear out often. A commutator electric motor is the best option in terms of availability and price for home workshops. It is versatile and easy to manage.

Inverter motor

The most modern, economical look. Converts alternating current to direct current. It operates without a belt drive, brushes, with a power of 400–800 W, making a number of turns from 16,000 to 20,000. No capacitors are needed to connect it, it can change the direction of rotation, it works quietly, without unnecessary vibration. Disadvantages: expensive, sensitive to changes in network voltage.

The identification has been carried out - we begin to start the electric motor.

How to turn on an asynchronous type motor

The asynchronous system consists of:

• The stator is a fixed base.
• Rotor - the element that rotates the drum.

The SM used three-phase motors that can fully operate at a voltage of 380 V. Connecting the motor from the washing machine to a single-phase 220 V network requires connecting a capacitor.

It will reduce the power of the device, but will make the work safer.

Choose a capacitor more powerful than the motor, then it will withstand voltage surges.

Three-phase connection diagram

You will need a set of accessories:

• multimeter;
• capacitor;
• wire - a plug at one end, three terminals at the opposite;
• intermediate wire, terminals at the edges.

Connection:

1. Take the power cable and connect the capacitor.
2. Attach the intermediate jumper wire to the other side of the capacitor.
3. Ring the winding to find the lowest resistance outputs.
4. Insert the straight wires that will connect to the outlet.
5. Connect the capacitor.

If you cannot hear the motor noise after plugging it into the outlet, most likely the starting capacitor is connected incorrectly. You will have to look for the right terminal using the “scientific poking method”. A detailed description and the result of the experiment with three wires can be seen in this video:

How to turn on a commutator type engine

The appearance of motors of different models may differ, but the design and operating principle are almost identical. The device consists of:

• housings;
• stator;
• stator coils (shoes) with two, three terminals;
• anchors;
• shtiva;
• two brushes;
• collector;
• tachometer (with two, three wires);
• terminal block.

To connect the motor, you need to know the outputs of the armature, stator, and tachometer windings. The tester will help you avoid getting tangled among the wires.

How to connect an electric motor

Set the tester to the mode of least resistance, call the windings of the tachometer, coils, and armature. Make connections through the terminals that connect to each other to find a pair. If you have a design with 4 wires, then red-brown are the stator, gray-green are the rotor. The colors of the wires of different SMA models may differ. Therefore, use a multimeter. Did you get a device with 6 wires? Those on the left regulate the speed of the machine with a tachometer. Their resistance is about 70 ohms. A correctly connected device picks up speed smoothly, does not crackle, does not spark. You can check how many revolutions the motor makes using a speed sensor.

You can see how to start the engine from the washing machine here:

Rotation adjustment

There are many ways to control speed:

• laboratory autotransformer;
• adjustment board for household appliances;
• screwdriver buttons, grinders;
• lighting regulators (switches, toggle switches).

The adjustment scheme is simple, you can do it yourself.

This is a satisfactory option for a pump or fan. More powerful mechanisms (for example, machine tools) will require a different regulator circuit.

The essence of the issue is to reduce the speed while maintaining performance. The connection is made through a tachogenerator, which transmits the number of turns to the speed controller microcircuit, which coordinates the cycle with a thyristor.

This board allows you to increase or decrease speed, but requires constant, intense cooling due to overheating. A detailed video about adjusting speed, stroke force, and connecting the microcircuit can be viewed here:

How to connect an inverter type motor

A neighbor in the building placed an automatic washing machine on the landing for further disposal, as a repairman told him, the motor was damaged. Not one Samodelkin, never in his life, will pass by a discarded unit without picking it up for spare parts or at least looking inside at the contents. I have the same problem, so I decided to spare my neighbor the hard physical work of taking the unit to the trash and took it to my village for spare parts.

In the photo: One of the most useful elements of the inside of a washing machine.

Everything was disassembled into useful gadgets and it was time to check the condition of the motor.

Paragraph 1. Checking the motor.

To check the motor and upgrade the lighting dimmer, we need tools.
*Device (tester)
*Electrician's side cutters
*Dimmer
*Soldering iron

Inside there was this brushed universal motor MCA 52\64 -148\KT11 390W. 13000 RPM.

In the picture we see a seven-pin large connector, on the left there are all single-color blue wires (to make it more difficult for the average person to understand) and one yellow-green (grounding), on the right there are wires going directly into the motor, if you look from the top, there are two red ones (to the stroke sensor ), blue to brush 1, purple to the other brush 2, black (midpoint of the motor windings), orange (two stator windings).

Let's strip all the outgoing blue wires to test them with the device.

Let's disconnect the connector and use a tester to call which of the blue wires goes to which motor wire, so as not to forget, you need to write it down and sketch it.

To easily start the motor, we only need two orange, blue and purple wires; the rest can be bitten off or insulated for future homemade products.

According to this diagram, you need to connect the motor.

You can check the operation of the motor, everything works (as in most cases it happens), only it is advisable to replace the bearings.

This is how repair specialists carry out diagnostics; the price of such a new motor is 6,000 rubles + installation work.

Point 2. Reverse.

This type of motor can be reversed, which is what the washing machine does during washing; to do this, you need to change the connection of the brush from one winding to another, only do this after the motor has completely stopped and is de-energized.

Scheme. Reverse using a toggle switch.

The toggle switch itself.

Point 3. Speed ​​control with light dimmer.

You can also regulate the speed by reducing or increasing the current, for example, using a wire rheostat of the required power or using a triac with a PWM controller.

As the simplest and most affordable, this is a Dimmer for lighting (photo below), but before the first connection you need to look at what maximum current the regulator is designed for, we need a tenfold overlap of the rated power of the motor, because the starting current of our motor jumps from 8-10A and higher, even without load.

Cheapest Dimmer.

If the Dimmer turns out to be 3A like mine, then it can be modified by finding the required triac directly on the control board of the washing machine itself, where all the parameters are precisely calculated for this motor.

To do this, we will trace the path from the place where the motor terminal is connected to the board and along the widest tracks, one of which will definitely fit one of the legs of the part we need (in my case, it is a BTB16 triac with three legs).

We disconnect the radiator mount and solder the part, being careful not to overheat.

We solder the resulting triac together with the radiator to replace the old part in the regulator, now you can safely connect a load of 10 A and even up to 16 A at the time of start-up.

A home handyman often has to do things on the farm that are not always easy or convenient to do by hand. In this case, various machines come to the rescue. But for this you need a device that will set them in motion, for example, an electric motor. But although three-phase asynchronous motors are simple to design and very common, it is not always possible to find and buy capacitors for them. So you can use . In this article we will look at a diagram for connecting a motor from a washing machine to the network for forward rotation and reverse.

What motors are used in washing machines?

Most washing machines use commutator motors. They are convenient because they do not require starting and operating capacitors and can be directly connected to the network. In addition, a simple speed controller for them can be bought at any electrical goods store.

The commutator motor from a washing machine consists of:

• Rotor with collector;

  Brush unit;

  Tachogenerator or hall sensor.

To measure engine speed and regulate them, tachogenerators or hall sensors are used. They are not used for normal engine starting from a 220V network, but are needed to work with complex speed controllers that maintain power on the shaft regardless of its load (within rated limits, of course).

Connection diagram

Initially, the motors from the washing machine are connected to the network using a terminal block. If it was not removed before you, when inspecting the engine you will see a similar picture:

The order of the wires may vary, but basically their purpose is as follows:

2 wires from brushes;

2 or 3 wires from the stator winding.

2 wires from the speed sensor.

Note:

If you have three wires from the stator, then one of them is the middle terminal, used to increase the speed in the spin mode. Then if you find that one pair of wires gives a higher resistance than the other pair, then connecting to the ends with higher resistance the speed will be lower, but the torque will be higher. And if you choose terminals with less resistance, then on the contrary - the speed is higher and the torque is lower.

Depending on the specific model, the block may contain contacts for some kind of protection, for example, thermal protection, etc. As a result, to simply connect to the network, we need four wires, for example, these:

Let us remember that most booster motors are brushed motors with series excitation. What does it mean? It is necessary to connect the stator winding in series with the field winding, that is, with the armature winding.

To do this, you need to connect one end of the stator winding to the network wire, connect the second end of the stator winding to the wire of one of the brushes, and connect the second brush to the second network wire, this connection diagram is shown in the figure below.

Reverse

In practice, it happens that for wall applications it is impossible to mount the motor in a different plane, then its direction of rotation may not be suitable for you. There is no need to despair. To change the direction of rotation of the motor from the washing machine, you just need to switch the ends of the stator winding and the excitation winding.

In order to be able to switch the direction of rotation of the motor during operation, you need to use a DPDT type toggle switch. These are six-contact toggle switches in which there are two independent contact groups (two poles) and two positions in which the middle contact is connected to either one or the other extreme contact. Its internal diagram is shown above.

The connection diagram for the motor from the washing machine with the ability to switch the direction of rotation is shown below.

You need to solder the wires from the brushes to the extreme contacts of the toggle switch, and the wire from the stator winding to one of the middle contacts, and the network wire to the second. The second end of the stator winding is still connected to the network. After this, you need to solder jumpers to the free two contacts “crosswise”.

Speed ​​adjustment

The speed of all commutator motors is easily adjustable. To do this, the current through their windings is changed. This can be done by changing the supply voltage, for example, cutting off part of a phase, reducing the effective voltage value. This control method is called Pulse-Phase Control System (PPCS).

In practice, to adjust the motor from the washing machine, you can use any power of 2.5-3 kW. You can use a dimmer for lighting lamps, but in this case, replace the triac with a BT138X-600 or BTA20-600BW, for example, or any other with a 10-fold current reserve relative to the motor consumption, unless of course the original characteristics are sufficient. You can see the connection diagram below.

But the simplicity of the solution comes at a price. Since we reduce the supply voltage, we also limit the current. Accordingly, the power decreases. However, when under load, the engine begins to consume more current to maintain the given speed. As a result, due to the reduced voltage, the engine will not be able to develop maximum power, and its speed will drop under load.

To avoid this, there are special boards that maintain a given speed by receiving feedback from the speed sensor. Precisely those wires that we did not use in the considered circuits. It works according to an algorithm similar to this:

1. Checking the set speed.

2. Reading the sensor values ​​and storing them in a register.

3. Comparison of sensor readings, real speed with the set speed.

4. If the actual speed matches the specified speed, do nothing. If the speed does not match then:

If the speed is increased, we increase the cutoff angle of the SIFU phase by a certain value (we lower the voltage, current and power);

If the speed is reduced, we reduce the cutoff angle of the SIFU phase (increase the voltage, current and power).

And so it repeats in a circle. Thus, when you load the motor shaft, the system itself decides to increase the voltage supplied to the motor or reduce it when the load increases.

You don’t have to rush to develop something like this; there are inexpensive ready-made solutions. An example of such a device is built. You can see an example of a connection diagram below.

Here the signatures mean:

M - output to the engine.

AC - network connection.

T - connection to tachometer.

R0 - current speed regulator.

R1 - minimum speed.

R2 - maximum speed

R3 - to adjust the circuit if the engine runs unevenly.

The diagram of the given board (to enlarge, click on the picture):

Conclusion

Please note that the commutator, or as it is popularly called, brush motor from washing machines is quite high-speed, around 10,000-15,000 rpm. This is due to its design. If you need to achieve low speeds, such as 600 rpm, use a belt or gear drive. Otherwise, even with the use of a special regulator, you will not be able to achieve normal operation.

7

So, you bought a washing machine and are going to connect it yourself. The solution is commendable - you will save on the services of a specialist, but you need to imagine the sequence of actions to install the washing machine.

The main conditions for ensuring the normal operation of the unit are the dismantling of the transport elements, the correct connection of the washing machine with your own hands to the network, water supply and sewerage, and correct installation on the floor.

The first thing you need to do to install the washing machine yourself is to remove all the shipping fasteners.

They are needed only for transporting the machine, but in stationary work they will not only interfere, but also cause harm.

Most often, these mysterious elements look like bolts, bars and steel brackets.

If you connect a machine with the shipping parts installed, then after a while (1-6 months) it will simply break down.

Try to save all removed transport elements in case of possible transportation of the machine to another place.

At the very least, the tank will definitely need to be secured with bolts.

The dismantling of transport parts is described in detail and with pictures in the operating instructions.

Installation location

If the machine will be installed in the kitchen or in a room (not in the bathroom), then there must be a reinforced concrete floor under it. It is not recommended to install the washing machine on a wooden floor, linoleum or laminate - the machine will constantly vibrate both during washing and during spinning.

In any case, you have reinforced concrete floor slabs under the wooden flooring, so you need to remove the wooden floor and fill the area under the machine with concrete mortar to the level of the old floor.

Subsequently, you can adjust the tightness of the legs of the machine to all four points on the floor - for this, the legs are equipped with threads.

If the floor under the machine is perfectly level (check with a level), then screw the legs in all the way - the shorter the height of the legs, the less conditions for vibration.

If the machine is installed in the bathroom, then the floor there is already concrete, and you don’t need to do anything. The only obstacle is the tiles on the floor. The machine can slide on it when working, so you just need to place a rubber mat under it.

If this is not done, then after a while you will see that the tiles under the machine will begin to crack and break into small pieces.

Installation

How to connect a washing machine to communications?

First of all, you need to connect the washing machine to a cold water supply and lay a pipeline to drain dirty water.

Most existing models have limited maximum and minimum outlet heights.

Therefore, to connect the machine to the sewer system, you need to install another siphon.

Drainage can also be organized more simply by simply securing the end of the drain hose to the edge of the sink or bathtub. The mount is included.

But it is safer to permanently connect the drain hose to the sewer system.

Keep in mind that the maximum length of the drain hose is indicated in the instructions and is designed for the pump installed in the machine, so it is not recommended to extend it.

The drain hose is connected to the sewer through a special siphon, which prevents the unpleasant smell of stagnant water from entering the apartment from the machine and sewer. Or you can bend the end of the hose so that a water plug is formed.

Some instructions recommend making a loose connection at the drain point. Why is this being done? To avoid water being sucked from the washing machine into the sewage system and to prevent the program running by the machine from freezing.

If you make a loose connection, then the air gap should be several centimeters higher than the possible rise of water in the bathroom if the sewer is clogged.

How to adjust the position

Installing a washing machine yourself is quite simple. However, very often the floor in the bathroom is sloped, so the washing machine must be leveled using legs that are threaded and screwed in.

It is desirable that the height of the legs after adjustment be minimal. The horizontal position is easy to adjust - rock the machine diagonally and screw in the corresponding leg until the machine body is in a stable position. You need to rotate the leg in the desired direction to achieve a stable position of the machine on the floor.

There are also washing machines that can be installed in kitchen furniture. A washing machine that is not intended to be built into furniture cannot be installed inside it, since the slightest vibration during operation will render the furniture unusable.

How to connect to a water supply

The machine is permanently connected with a special flexible hose with a diameter of ¾ inches.

After washing, it is advisable to turn off the water, so you will need to install an additional valve on the cold water supply.

It is needed to protect the machine from large debris that may be in the water.

Often such inclusions appear after repair or maintenance work on the water supply system. These could be pieces of rust, sand, dirt, etc. The filter needs to be cleaned periodically. The industry produces taps for drainage from tees and couplings, and for drainage and connection to toilet tanks and faucets mounted on the wall.

Therefore, depending on the location of the washing machine, you can always choose the appropriate shut-off valves. These taps can also be used to beautifully connect faucets in a new hidden water supply system.

To connect the drain hose to the bathtub, you will need a longer hose than the existing one. This is not a very convenient connection, since before each wash you will need to remove the gooseneck on the hose and extend the hose with another piece.

The advantages of this method of draining water are that your washing machine will never leak when idle, because the inlet hose is not connected.

Many models of automatic machines are equipped with the Aqua-Stop system. This is an inlet hose equipped at the end with special solenoid valves. Such a unit is connected to a 220 Volt network. Both the wires and the hose are contained in a flexible protective casing.

If the washing machine is not working, then this solenoid valve shuts off the water supply and water cannot flow into the machine.

In order for the machine to work correctly and for a long time, it is necessary to maintain a horizontal position of the top cover. A horizontal deviation of no more than 2° is allowed, which can be checked with a regular level.

Also, for some rooms, it is necessary to rigidly fasten the legs to the floor, for example, on an unstable wooden floor, on a slippery and inclined floor, etc. For such installation, some models have special fastenings - brackets for the front legs.

Electrical connection

Safety precautions when working with a washing machine are an indispensable condition.

How to connect a washing machine to electricity?

To comply with safety regulations, it is necessary to connect the machine from a distribution board with a neutral or grounding wire with a cross-section of 3 mm.

The socket must also be designed for three wires.

Pay attention to the following point - the grounding must be separate; it cannot be connected to heating radiators, water supply or gas supply.

If there are other powerful consumers near the machine (dishwasher, electric stove or air conditioner), then you can connect to them.

Otherwise, the only safe option is to lay a three-wire powerful cable.

Such work must be carried out with appropriate training. Therefore, it is better to use the services of specialists. They will solve the problem of connecting and supplying cables comprehensively and in accordance with all safety regulations.

Alternatively, a two-wire connection can be made using a portable RCD that is controlled by differential current. To do this, an automatic circuit breaker and an RCD (automatic shutdown device) are installed next to the meter on a separate distribution board.

Portable residual current devices (RCDs)

The RCD is designed to cut off the mains voltage if you touch live parts or a metal part of a faulty washing machine.

The installation of portable RCDs also aims to protect the premises from a possible fire of a machine with damaged electrical insulation.

What do you gain from installing an RCD:

1. The connection can be made independently, without calling a specialist.
2. Work in a wide temperature range.
3. Operating voltage range – from 115 to 265 V.
4. Voltage indicator installed.
5. The small dimensions and weight of the device allow it to be mounted in any convenient place and in any position.
6. Protection of the connected device in the event of a break in the ground wire, protection against impulse and lightning overloads.
7. Universal use of RCD - the device can work with any electrical appliances with a power of up to 3 kW.

Technical characteristics of portable RCDs

This is a general list of work and devices required to properly connect the washing machine. If you follow them correctly, you will not have to study information about repairing washing machines.

There is no point in risking a new expensive machine simply because you had no desire to read the instructions or training information.

Connecting an automatic washing machine yourself is not as difficult as it seems. This is a profitable solution, because the help of a specialist is not cheap. However, connection errors can lead to damage to valuable equipment, so before you get to work, you need to figure out what to do and how to do it. We will tell you about all the nuances of installation, and also share some tips from professionals in the field of connecting washing machines.

Options for placing the machine in the apartment

First of all, it is worth considering the question of where exactly the machine will be located. Unlike old activator-type washing units, an automatic machine is connected to a sewer and water supply system, so moving it after installation will be very problematic. This means that you need to carefully think through all the points in advance.

There are a number of requirements for the installation site:

• Smooth and durable floor. Concrete screed is best, but well-laid tiles or other durable covering are also suitable.
• Access to water supply and drainage pipes.
• Access to an electrical outlet. It is ideal if you can connect the machine directly and not through an extension cord.
• Sufficient space to place the machine itself and access to the laundry loading hatch. It would be good if it would be possible to approach from the sides in order to be able to reach objects that have fallen behind the machine.

Usually the connection is made in the bathroom or kitchen, since these rooms have easy access to water supply and sewerage. But this is not always optimal. In many apartments, the kitchen and bathroom area is small, and the constant humidity in these rooms does not contribute to the longevity of the device. There are options for installing the machine in the corridor or utility room.

An interesting solution is to place the machine under the sink. This option allows you to take up unused space. The only difficulty is getting the sink to fit correctly. The siphon and all communications must be connected at the rear to leave enough space.

What will you need when connecting?

Before starting work, prepare in advance all the tools and materials needed for connection:

• First of all, you will need a non-slip rubber mat or a set of anti-vibration feet.
• To make the connection, you need adjustable and gas wrenches, a screwdriver, and a bubble level.
• Also prepare materials for sealing - combed flax or FUM tape.

In each specific case, the described set is expanded with tools and materials dictated by the connection method. So, to work with plastic pipes you will need a soldering iron, for metal water pipes you will need a tee and welding.

Connection work must begin by removing the packaging and fasteners. It is forbidden to turn on the machine before this, as a breakdown is inevitable. In this case, any damage due to remaining transportation bolts is considered not subject to repair under warranty.

The following fasteners must be removed:

• Clamps holding the hose and electrical power cord.
• Bars inserted between the drum and the body. Just tilt the machine forward and they will give in easily.
• Bolts that hold the drum in place. Plastic plugs are immediately inserted into the bolt holes.

The instructions will help you learn how to properly remove the shipping fasteners. The location and number of bolts varies among units from different manufacturers. Therefore, you should not neglect the instructions.

Connection to water supply

This is the most important part of the job. The first question when connecting is which pipe to connect the machine to. Most manufacturers recommend serving cold water. Then the machine itself will heat the water to the desired temperature using a heating element.

Sometimes they connect to hot water to save energy for heating. But this solution has several disadvantages:

• Hot water contains more salts, which form scale. Feeding it into the washing machine will cause the heating element to quickly overgrow.
• If you pay for hot water by meter, the savings are dubious: it’s cheaper to pay the electricity bill.

There are models that have two inputs. They are connected to both hot and cold water at the same time. But most machines on the Russian market have only one input.

The water supply hose that comes with the machine is short (about 0.6–0.7 m). Often this length is not enough for connection. Plumbing stores sell longer hoses (3 m or more). The hose is screwed at one end to the input on the rear wall of the machine. The second end of the hose requires a tap into the water supply. How to make it? There are several options.

Tapping with a crimp sleeve

A crimp coupling will help you make a cut into a metal pipe. This plumbing device consists of two halves, which are placed on the pipe anywhere and tightened together with four bolts. To ensure tightness, a sealing gasket is placed between the coupling halves and the pipe.

One of the two halves has a threaded outlet. When the coupling is put on, a hole is drilled through it in the pipe (you will need an electric drill and a metal drill). The insert is ready, all that remains is to screw the ball valve to the outlet, and to it the second end of the water supply hose.

Insertion into metal plastic using a fitting

A crimp coupling is not suitable for a metal-plastic pipe, since when tightened it will simply crush the wall.

To cut into the water supply, a fitting is used. It is attached according to the following scheme:

1. A piece corresponding to the size of the fitting is cut out of the pipe.
2. Attach connecting rings with nuts.
3. Use a calibrator to flare the ends of the pipe to which the tee will be attached.
4. Fitting fittings are inserted into the ends of the pipe.
5. Move the O-rings to the joints and tighten the nuts.

It is better to screw the ball valve to the fitting outlet in advance and seal the connection. If you do this after installation, it is easy to damage the pipe.

If the pipes are made of polypropylene, you will need a plastic tee with a metal thread inserted into the outlet. To secure it in the cut, you will need a “soldering iron” for plastic pipes.

Connection using a tee

The easiest way, suitable for beginners. The insertion is made at the point where water is supplied to the drain tank or at the point where the pipe is attached to the mixer. You will need a plumbing tee equipped with a ball valve. Simply unscrew the water supply hose, screw in the tee and screw the hose to the other end of the tee.

This option has several disadvantages:

• If the supply is carried out through a mixer, you will have to turn off the water to the tap every time you wash.
• The hose from the machine will be in plain sight, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. You can fix the problem by hiding the hose in a decorative box.

If the option of connecting to a mixer is more of a temporary measure, then the machine can be connected to the point where water is supplied to the tank on a permanent basis. Unfortunately, this option is only possible in combined bathrooms or when the machine and toilet are located close, through the partition.

Connecting a washing machine without running water

If the house does not have running water, you can connect the machine to a large water tank. There are two ways to provide pressure:

• By gravity. In this case, the tank should be located at least a meter above the entry point into the machine. This is how they usually connect the car at dachas or other temporary housing.
• Install and connect the pumping station. This option is more reliable, but is associated with higher costs. Therefore, it is used when permanently living in a house without a centralized water supply.

The tank will ensure stable operation of the machine, just remember to periodically add water.

Where to route the drain hose?

Connecting the drain pipe to the sewer is necessary to remove dirty water remaining after washing.

Bathtub or toilet flush

The simplest solution is to drain the washing machine into the toilet or sink. In this case, the sewer system does not require modifications, but it is important not to forget to check the hose before starting washing and during the washing process. Otherwise, you may find that the corrugation has jumped out of its place and dirty water is draining onto the floor.

The outlet end of the drain hose cannot be raised higher than 1 m from the floor, since the machine simply will not be able to create enough pressure to raise the drains to such a height. Also, do not bend the hose at sharp angles or lay it in loops, as this is dangerous due to clogging of the corrugations.

Draining through a siphon

If there is a sink near the machine, it is easy to connect the drain hose to its siphon. To do this, you need to remove the old siphon and install in its place a special product equipped with an outlet for the hose from the washing machine. You can buy such a siphon at a plumbing store.

Another option for this solution is to connect to a tee inserted at the place where the hose from the sink enters the sewer bed.

Draining through a sewer pipe

If the sink is located far away, a major connection is made directly into the sink - a horizontal sewer pipe. You will need a tee and a hose seal.

The operating procedure is as follows:

1. Cut the deck chair, cut a piece equal to the length of the tee.
2. Insert the tee into the cut.
3. Place the sealing sleeve on the drain hose. It is needed because the diameter of the bed is significantly larger than the diameter of the drain corrugation.
4. Insert the hose into the tee and seal the hole with a sealing sleeve.

For additional protection against leaks, connections can be treated with plumbing silicone sealant.

Electrical connection

To provide an automatic washing machine with electrical power, it is connected to a 220 V household network. In most apartments, there are no sockets or electrical wiring in the bathroom. Extension cords are used as a temporary solution, but this option cannot be called convenient and safe. It is much better to draw an additional line and install a socket for the machine.

Safety regulations require that the machine body be grounded. If there is no ground wire in the distribution box, the contact is connected to a grounded bus in the electrical panel. It is prohibited to connect the ground to the water supply or heating pipe, as this can result in electrical injury.

To be more confident, find out how much it costs to hire a professional electrician. If you decide to make the connection yourself, do not forget that according to regulations it is permissible to use copper wires with a core thickness of at least 1.5 mm. The socket in the bathroom must have water protection and a cover to protect it from splashing water.

Setting the level

To prevent the washing machine from “jumping” during the spin cycle, it is leveled. To do this, tighten the adjustable legs, controlling the horizontal position of the top cover with a bubble level. The level is placed first along the front wall, then along the back. Then check along the right and left edges.

If the floor is covered with tiles or other hard and slippery surfaces, the machine may vibrate during the spin cycle, even if it is set perfectly. Anti-vibration feet or a rubber mat will solve the problem.

We carry out tests

When you turn it on for the first time, you need to check a few things:

• Are there any leaks in the connections? If so, tighten the nuts.
• Are there any extraneous sounds?
• Is the spin going well?
• Does the outlet or the wire coming from it get hot?

If the machine works well in all modes, you can congratulate yourself on a successful installation. Such an installation will not only save money, but will also help you better understand the operating principle of the washing machine, which will affect its service life.