Introduction

I was prompted to create my first plane by a simple lack of money and a desire to learn how to fly. Since the Chinese plane given to me by my girlfriend was repaired an endless number of times and, in the end, fell into a condition beyond repair, and there was not enough money to buy a new one, the decision was made to build my own. Moreover, on the modelworld.ru store forum, I was advised to do just that. Initially I tried to copy the fuselage of my Chinese aircraft, but building an aircraft requires at least some basic knowledge. Therefore, it is better to have at hand a manual already written by a more experienced designer. And, while still crawling on the Internet in search of a suitable aircraft, I came across the article “ParkFlyer 2 or our answer to Piper and Cessn” by Evgeniy Rybkin (link). A very good option for me: high-wing, which means easier and more predictable to control; I am also glad that the aircraft is domestic, since our aircraft are practically not represented in this class.

I read the article, and although there is a slightly different manufacturing method, I decided to build according to this manual. True, if you compare both options, then only the name of the aircraft will be common - after all, Evgeny Rybkin’s description is more suitable for those who already have experience in building models and have the necessary materials and tools. In some ways, my example looks like "building an airplane in unfavorable conditions." Therefore, the models differ in appearance (Yak-12 aircraft by Evgeniy Rybkin - on the left, My version of the Yak-12 aircraft - on the right):

The construction of my plane was carried out more intuitively than scientifically: no calculations were made, no engine was selected, but what was available was stuck in. The remoteness of the city in which I live has an effect - the only model store I know of is more than 100 km away, and in our construction stores it’s a real problem to buy a normal ceiling and good glue. Therefore, the construction process was constantly hampered by the lack of necessary materials and parts. As a result, something was taken from a crashed Chinese plane, something (and this is most of it) was invented from scrap material.

Since this is my first self-built aircraft, there were some mistakes. Therefore, in the process of creating the aircraft, it was necessary to look for different options for solving problems, and some corrections and upgrades appeared in the process. Therefore, it makes sense to read the article to the end so as not to repeat my mistakes.

I would like to add that this article should not be perceived as a guide to action or instructions for building an aircraft, as I, for example, perceived the article by E. Rybkin. It just describes the process of making a parkflyer by a beginner in the field of aircraft construction, practically from improvised means. But, if you are building your first plane, and you do not have the opportunity to get hold of branded parts, then, I hope, some points will be useful to you. In general, go for it, and everything will work out for you!

Materials and tools

In principle, I didn’t spend that much material on this plane. Considering that some components and parts were redone several times, trying to achieve a more accurate match, the amount of materials wasted is minimal. I spent the most time because due to work I could only work on the plane in the evenings.

The article by E. Rybkin describes the manufacture of an aircraft from PS-60 foam plastic. There, a special machine is used to cut it, where the role of a knife is played by a heated nichrome (maybe I’m wrong in the name) wire. Due to the lack of this device, I decided to make the model entirely from the ceiling. I didn’t have more accessible material at that time. I used ceilings from different manufacturers, different colors, but the same parameters: 500*500 mm, the same density, 3 mm thick, and it must look like a “Doshirak box.” It took me nine sheets for the plane. When buying a ceiling in a store, buy a bottle of ceiling tile adhesive. I used Master glue. As it turned out later, this is an analogue of the widely known Titan glue. In general, ask the seller, he will tell you.

Then we go to a stationery store and buy 30 cm and 50 cm wooden rulers there. I used 30 cm long rulers as ribs in the wing and for the rigidity of the fuselage. As practice has shown, for the rigidity of the fuselage it is better to use a 50 cm ruler - they are thicker. There, I bought colored tape to cover the model. Due to the limited assortment, I had to take white, blue and orange colors. I was looking for black tape to imitate glass, but couldn’t find it. But our stationery store sells knitting needles. I took four pieces of 2 mm and two of 3 mm. In principle, you can do without 3 mm spokes - I used them as a spacer between the wing and the fuselage, but the spokes are quite heavy, after several dashing turns they fell out, and I had to replace them with plastic tubes. If you do not have a ready-made motor frame, as in my case, then you will also need a sheet of plywood 3 mm thick and approximately 200 * 200 mm in size.

The tools I used: a utility knife with a replaceable blade, scissors, a gel pen, an awl and a 3mm Phillips screwdriver, a set of pins and, of course, rulers.

"Filling"

E. Rybkin’s article contains a lot of calculations. And, based on these calculations, the engine unit and other electronic components are selected. This is the right approach when creating a serious aircraft. Perhaps next time I build, I'll use this method. At the same time, I proceeded from what I had available. And I had the following: Futaba 6EXA equipment with a receiver, two Chinese motors, with rear and front mounting, a 30A regulator, two servos weighing 8 g and a force of 1.3 kg, hogs taken from a Chinese plane, two propellers measuring 10 * 7 and 8*4 with spinner and a Chinese battery with 8.4 volts and a capacity of 650mAh.

Drawing

I downloaded the drawings there, in E. Rybkin’s article and printed the sheets on a printer.

Gluing is very simple - there are marks on the sheets that you just need to align to get the correct ones, without shifting the lines. To transfer an image to the ceiling, you can use two methods. The first is to fix the sheet on the ceiling with pins and pierce it along the contour with a thin awl. Then, for clarity, you can connect the holes made on the ceiling with a pencil, or you can simply cut them with a sharp knife. On straight sections, it is enough to make several punctures, but on curves, the more often the punctures are, the more accurate the transfer will be. The second method is suitable if the drawing is printed on an inkjet printer. To transfer, lightly moisten the tile, attach the drawing and iron it on a flat surface with a warm iron. The image should remain on the foam. The main thing is not to overdo it with the temperature and not melt the ceiling.

When placing a drawing, it is worth remembering that ceiling tiles have different bending strengths. This can be easily checked by bending the sheet in different directions. This applies to the wing, since my halves of the left and right sides were placed diagonally, from one corner to the other. This made it possible to avoid gluing the fuselage from several ceiling sheets.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the top and bottom of the plane are given in halves, and they are of different sizes. To trace the lines correctly, you must first draw one half, and then make its mirror image. I divided the upper part into two sections - the front one goes from the nose of the car to the leading edge of the wing; rear from end to trailing edge.

The wing profiles, as well as the internal frames in the drawing turned out to be smaller than we needed. Therefore, you will have to make them yourself.

Fuselage

After the bottom and sides of the fuselage are cut out, we mark on them where the frames will be located. To keep things simple, I transferred almost all the locations of the frames from the drawing.

With the exception of "A" and "B". I decided to use these two frames as a motor mount. Since I had two motors with different mounts, it was decided to make the motor mount universal for motors with front and rear mounts, reducing the distance between the frames so that both motors would fit. Subsequently, this arrangement was very useful - the initially installed motor turned out to be too weak.

The motorama was made from two 3mm thick plywood plates and two pieces of a ruler. Also, for strength and adjustment of the inclination of the plates, I added two corners at the base. In frame “B” or in the rear wall of the motor mount, do not forget to cut holes for the output of the motor wires to the regulator. The entire structure was glued together with epoxy resin. Initially I wanted to make a “crooked” frame, so that later I wouldn’t have to bother with slopes down and to the right. But on the forum of the website modelsworld.ru they dissuaded me in time and advised me to tilt the motor by placing washers under the base. Looking ahead, I will say that the structure turned out to be very durable - after several strong frontal impacts on the ground, the front wall burst at the place where the engine was mounted. The second option, when the frame itself is purchased, and the base is made of foam, I will not consider here, since this option has not yet been flight tested. And there is nothing complicated there: a foam base is made, reinforced with rulers for a ready-made motor mount.

You also need to think about where and how the “filling” will be located: servos, battery compartment, receiver and regulator.

For the regulator, I made a small podium from the same packaging foam, making a recess in it slightly thicker than the regulator itself, where I pasted two strips of double-sided tape. This was done for more comfortable work with wires when connecting and for greater safety of the regulator.

Immediately after the podium, on the bottom, I placed a power element for the chassis, again made from a ruler. The chassis will be screwed into it.

For the battery compartment, I used blocks of packing foam adjusted to the size of the battery and a ruler as frame “B” (before gluing, it is better to wrap the ruler with tape a couple of times, otherwise the battery will break if dropped). The compartment turned out to be universal - it can successfully accommodate both a Ni-Cd battery and a Li-Po battery. Moreover, there is enough space there to adjust the balancing by moving the battery. I also had a receiver there.

Immediately behind the battery compartment in front of frame "D" I placed the servo machine for the rudder and elevator. A styrofoam podium was also made for them, with niches cut out for cars. I glued strips from a ruler to the places where the fastening screws would be screwed.

Then I glued the frames “D” and “E”, having previously cut out grooves in them for reinforcing the sides of the fuselage. Also in the frame “D” a hole was cut for the rudder rods. In the photo above the hole is a circle, but I had to abandon that shape and make it square and cut off the top. That is, it turned out like an inverted letter “P”. This design turned out to be more practical.

When planning the plane, I thought of making the wings removable, inserted on spokes on the left and right sides, respectively. But, having already made this design, I realized its weaknesses. Firstly, we would have to think through access to the internal compartments. Secondly, in the event of an impact, most likely, the attachment points for the wings would simply be torn out of the fuselage. Therefore, I decided to make the wing fastening classic for such models - removable, with elastic bands.

In the picture, the glued rulers are what I did originally. The subsequent cutout for the wing is shown in red; blue - power elements from rulers; yellow - the approximate location of the holes for the sticks on which the elastic bands will be attached. The cut will depend on the shape of the wing. Of course, it is better to make such a cutout right away, when it is possible to attach both halves to each other, so that the result would be the same on both sides. In principle, I removed the upper part of the already glued and covered fuselage - it turned out not bad. But all the same, it is advisable to glue the bottom and sides after the wing has been made and the seats for it have been cut out in the sides.

Now, having already flown the finished model, I came to the conclusion that the rear power element is not necessary, since the frames and tape covering at the rear are quite enough. But if you are worried about strength, you can make it.

Since the bottom of the side does not have a straight shape, I did the gluing as follows: first I glued the central part, fixing the position of the bottom, side and frames with pins; after the glue dried, I also glued the nose part; and finally glued the tail section. I glued the motor frame to the sides using epoxy resin.

After gluing, I got the following:

In the lower part, in front of frame “B”, on both sides I glued two plastic spare parts from the spokes onto epoxy, with the holes facing outwards. They come with knitting needles and are dressed at the ends. The wing struts will be inserted into these holes.

In the very corner of the back of the case, I placed a piece of foam. The rudder will be “stuck” into it. The upper part of the fuselage consists of two halves: bow and stern. After switching to the construction of an aircraft with wing fastenings on elastic bands, there was no longer a need to make the nose part with an approach to the wing. The photo shows with a dotted line where the cut should be made.

Before installing the rear upper section, it is necessary to place the steering gears and rods (bowdens) inside the fuselage. Since my rudder rod came out exactly through the rear fuselage cover, I had to make a small hole in it (the cover) for the bowden. I made another hole in the rear of the left side for the elevator rod.

The fuselage was covered with white tape. I didn’t encounter any difficulties here. But making the applications took some time.

To imitate the cabin windows, I made templates from cardboard. Then I simply placed them on blue tape, outlined them and cut them with a utility knife.

The blue stripe was made from a strip of tape. I applied the tape directly to the fuselage, marked it, ran a knife along the markings and removed the excess. But it was a big mistake to cut the blue stripe in place, on the fuselage. After hitting the ground, the ceiling burst exactly in the place where the cuts were, although when cutting, I tried to touch the foam as little as possible.

The inscriptions are printed on a printer, trimmed and pasted on transparent tape.

Elevators and rudder

There were no difficulties in making the steering wheels themselves. Problems arose during their installation - it was necessary to achieve an even installation so that there would be no problems during flights.

When making the elevator, it must be taken into account that the jumper connecting the two halves is quite small and requires reinforcement. I didn’t immediately pay attention to this, for which I was punished: in flight, this jumper broke, despite covering it with tape, and the RV acted like an aileron. The result is several barrels and land. You can strengthen it with a thin strip of ruler glued to glue, and also slightly increase the size of this area. There are also more practical options for amplification than I used. For example, carbon pipes. After strengthening, cover with tape. And one more important point: after covering, do not heat it! The adhesive tape already holds quite firmly, and if you start heating it, the stabilizer will most likely move, as happened in my case. I had to make a new one. The same applies to the rudder. The elevator was leveled using struts made from thin spokes. There were no problems when gluing it into the fuselage, so I see no point in describing it in detail.

But there were problems with the rudder - I didn’t want to install it straight. For gluing into the fuselage I used rod ends glued to the spokes.

But this was not enough, and it was necessary to install supports from rulers. Later, I hid the supports, as well as the elevator reinforcements, under white tape so that they would not be conspicuous.

Wings

The most problematic part for me during production was the wing. I redid it several times, trying to achieve the same results on both wings. It turned out different all the time. Lack of experience affected.

An important point when placing the wing drawing on a sheet of ceiling tiles will be the choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling itself, as mentioned above. When marking the wing, we will need to make its mirror image with an indent slightly larger than the front height of the rib. That is, we outline one half, retreat the required distance (about 20 mm), turn the wing pattern over and outline the mirror image. In my case, the offset was about 15 mm and, anyway, it was not enough.

A ruler was used as material for the ribs. Initially, I made an irregularly shaped rib with a sharp forehead, but then, after receiving advice on the forum, I corrected myself. In general, it is advisable to make a profile as in the drawing, but with dimensions suitable for our wing. There were four ribs on the wing: three on the wide part and one in the middle, between the end of the wide part and the end of the wing.

In the first three ribs, at the same distance, two holes were made for the spokes, which were originally intended as devices for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But even if you make a wing with a top mount, I think you can leave the spokes, as they will give the wing rigidity and prevent it from breaking.

When everything is prepared, we begin to bend the wing. On the Internet you can find many ways to bend ceilings. The essence is the same everywhere - you need to warm it up. I heated it with a heater. And the main thing here is not to rush. Choose a temperature at which it is not too hot, and the sheet bends as it should. Already on the next wings I did this: I took two 50 cm wooden rulers, applied them on both sides and bent (pressed) with the rulers, not with my hands. This was done so that there would be no dents left by the fingers. Fixed it when gluing with clothespins and even paper clips. When gluing, when fixing, it is also better to use a flat backing in the form of rulers.

I only realized this when the wing, left to dry until the morning, had dents from clothespins and paper clips.

It so happened that on one wing, the end chord turned out to be 5-7 mm smaller than on the other. Having tortured several sheets of ceiling, I decided to make it simpler. I measured the missing piece, cut it out from scraps and glued it on. After covering with tape, the differences were not visible.

Next, we make a profile of the inner wing wall from a ruler. It is enough to simply attach the wing vertically to a sheet of paper and trace along the contour, and then transfer the resulting contour to a ruler. On this profile I had two rows of holes - the first for the spokes exiting the wing, and the second, slightly lower and slightly to the side for the spokes entering from the opposite wing. When the profiles are cut, glue them onto the ends of the wing, and, after the glue has dried, insert the knitting needles into the holes. It turns out like this:

Then we cut out a rectangular piece of the ceiling, with an approximate overlap of 30-50 mm on the wing. Having evenly positioned the blank on the wing (as in the photo), glue the lower part. After the glue has dried, we bend it to the shape of the wing. We try the resulting wing on the fuselage, mark the width and remove unnecessary areas with a knife.

There was even an idea to increase the wing area in this way, but since the plane flew, it was decided to leave everything as it is.

The wing was covered with white tape with an overlap of 3-5 mm. The ends of the wings were orange. I printed the inscriptions on a laser printer, cut them and glued them to transparent tape. I did not resort to using an iron to smooth out unevenness, since a slight overheating could lead to deformation.

I used thick knitting needles as braces. But either I made a mistake in my calculations, or the knitting needles turned out to be a rather heavy material; in flight, after several maneuvers, they fell out even after gluing. Perhaps it makes sense to find an easier option. For example, as E. Rybkin suggests, you can use cotton candy tubes or choose an analogue.

To install the struts, I used juice straws in tetra bags, since with their help it is easy to achieve the desired angle for installing the struts. I glued it into the wing using epoxy.

Chassis

For a long time I could not make the chassis because I could not find the appropriate material. But in the end, as always, the stationery store helped - aluminum rulers are what we need. The wheels I used were from a Chinese plane, size 5.

It would be safer to make a structure from one ruler, but I couldn’t find a ruler of suitable length, so I had to use two 15 cm each. I cut off the excess and folded it according to the drawing. Initially I planned to attach it to the fuselage by gluing, but the first tests (I just threw it on the floor) showed that this design is too flimsy. I had to line up the gluing and drill holes for the mounting screws.

Chassis pattern shape

I installed the chassis after wrapping it. Before gluing, I used the method described by E. Rybkin: I wrapped the part that I was going to glue with thread, turn to turn, and then smeared it with glue.

Hood

Initially, when making the hood, I wanted to follow the example described in E. Rybkin’s article, but after several attempts I found this method a little complicated for me. As a result, I decided to make a hood from a strip of ceiling. I cut out a rectangle 70mm wide and about 300mm long, applied it to the nose of the plane and wrapped it. The bottom was glued with tape. An important point here is the correct choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling. In my case, there was no need for heating or other methods that are used to shape the ceiling. I wanted to use a propeller from a processor cooler as the front of the motor, but I haven’t found the right size yet. This would help solve the engine compartment ventilation problem. For now, I limited myself to sticking printed blinds from the drawing.

Flying

The first flights were without a chassis, without a hood, with a plywood engine frame and spokes as struts. Impatience forced us to go out into the field in a rather noticeable gusty wind.

Checking, alignment. For weight, I glue several five-ruble coins onto the nose. I fly it by hand without a motor - the flight is not far, but smooth, with a slight roll. I decide to fly with a motor. The first flight was lumpy. The plane didn’t want to fly at all - at full throttle it smoothly sank into the grass. The use of an unknown motor had an effect. After the plane “landed” next to a pipe camouflaged in the grass, I decided not to tempt fate and went home to redo the engine installation. It’s good that I initially made the motor mount universal, so the alteration did not take much time. I also decided to install Li-Po instead of a standard battery.

Back in the field. The wind has become even stronger, but this does not stop, although the thought “can it wait?” arises. Check again and take off. Now the picture is different - the plane is flying, gaining altitude, making uncertain turns, but all this is somehow strange: the nose is raised into the wind - the tail is down. In the wind the picture is the opposite - the nose is down, the tail is up. Several times, when turning, I was caught by gusts. I couldn’t turn it out once, so I hit the ground rather hard. A crack has appeared under the blue stripe. But the experiments don’t stop there - we need to find out what’s wrong with the plane. It turned out that during one of the flights the plane suddenly made two barrels and “softly” landed in a puddle. We approached, and everything immediately became clear - the same jumper connecting the halves of the elevator had broken.

Damages from that day: a dented nose, a crack under the strip, a torn-off spoke. A little. We're going home for repairs.

The next morning turned out to be calm and the decision to go appeared immediately. To be honest, I was very worried: after the first flights, it seemed that the plane was poorly assembled and there were a lot of shortcomings and miscalculations somewhere. Ground check and start. And, lo and behold! The plane flies as it should! A climb, a turn, another, I reduce the gas to almost half, but it still flies! There is no limit to delight! The only thing that spoiled the mood a little was that when turning, you have to be very careful with the rolls: if you were a little too lazy, the plane would quickly lose altitude. But it’s very easy to catch, although it adds adrenaline. It is enough to place the rudder in the center, and take the elevator slightly towards you, and the plane goes into horizontal flight. True, I don’t have enough experience and in the end I stuck it in the ground. This time the damage was more significant: the motor mount burst at the places where the bolts were attached, the nose was even more dented, and the ruler holding the battery was broken.

Conclusion

Despite the recent damage, I am very pleased with the plane, although it does not suit the role of a trainer, as originally intended. This was my first independent step into remote aviation. During the construction of this aircraft, I learned a lot, which will undoubtedly be useful to me when building other aircraft.

I would also like to add that testing and refinement continue.

I would like to say a huge thank you to my mother, my girlfriend Masha, for putting up with all the mess that I made at home; Vadik for providing details and ideas; members of the forum forum.modelsworld.ru, especially Barbus for his advice.

Specification:

Length - 685 mm
> wingspan - 960 mm
> weight - 500 g

motor - E-Sky Ek5-0003B 900KV
> regulator - Rich-ESC - 30A
> servo - E-Sky Ek2-0500 weight 8g. Force 1.3 kg
> propeller - 10*7

Equipment - Futaba 6EXA 40Mhz

Author - Zhukov Evgeniy Valerievich. (Terranosaurus)
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All photos from the article

Aircraft models made from plywood are made by craftsmen all over the world. At the same time, the complexity of the models can be very different, ranging from the simplest children's toys to controllable products capable of repeating aerobatics.

Naturally, only an experienced craftsman can master such a labor-intensive task, so we will begin to master the technologies used in aircraft modeling from the simplest schemes.

Material selection

Before looking online for drawings of plywood model airplanes, we need to take care of purchasing the material itself.

The ideal option would be aviation plywood BS - 1:

• sheets of material are made from three or more layers of peeled birch veneer;
• phenolic adhesives or bakelite films are used for gluing veneer;
• The thickness of the plywood is very important: used when building an aircraft model, most often a 1 mm sheet, but for some parts thicker blanks may be needed;

Note!
This parameter is important if you plan to make a structure that needs to fly.
A children's toy or simply a decorative item can be cut from 5 mm.

• The main advantages of this material include strength, low weight and good flexibility. The disadvantage is the high price compared to other varieties.

When purchasing sheets of material, you need to pay attention to their appearance:

Erect airplane from tree Even a schoolchild who never misses classes in the school aircraft modeling club is absolutely capable of doing it. Ultimately, such a glider model is unlikely to be able to take passengers on board, but will reward the creator with good flight properties and high structural strength. By launching a wooden glider, you will acquire the skill of adjusting free-flying models and get an unforgettable sensation from a flight made with your own hands. airplane A.

You will need

• Pine slats, knife, jigsaw, plane, PVA glue, aluminum wire, polystyrene foam, balsa, mylar film, iron with thermostat

Instructions

1. Working on a wooden model airplane start by assembling the frame. Glue it together from pine slats with a cross section of 5x5 mm using PVA glue. After the glue has dried, reinforce the frame with inner corners made of foam. Also cut the upper end of the keel from a piece of foam or balsa with a knife. Round the front and back edges of the frame. Cover the keel on both sides with colored lavsan film. Glue the steering wheel to the rear edge (it can be cut from cardboard 0.5 mm thick).

2. Also assemble a stabilizer from pine slats with a cross section of 5x5 mm. Reinforce it with foam corners, rounding the edges of the frame. Bend the end parts of the stabilizer from wire (an aluminum knitting needle or a piece of electrical wire will do). Attach the ending to the frame with threads and PVA glue or epoxy resin. Cover the finished stabilizer with a thin lavsan film, just like the keel.

3. The wing will be made entirely of pine wood. The leading and trailing edges of the wing must have a section of 3.5x9 mm, the spar - 3.5x7 mm. Also make the ribs from pine blanks or linden. After the frame is assembled, plan the edges according to the wing profile and round them.

4. Make the fuselage from pine slats with a section of 10x15 mm. The rail should thin evenly along each length towards the tail. Plan the nose from linden or pine. You will also need a balancing weight made from a piece of lead. Insert the weight into the hole in the spout and rivet it.

5. After gluing and processing the fuselage, glue the fin and stabilizer to it with PVA glue. In this case, maintain the mutual perpendicularity of the tail elements and the even position of the stabilizer in relation to the fuselage beam. Varnish the fuselage and cover it with shiny nitro paint.

6. Adjust the wooden glider model. Tie the pylon at the rear and front ends to the fuselage using a rubber band and move the wing along the beam until you find the required location of the center of gravity relative to the wing.

7. Carry out the first test runs in the gym or outside in a light wind. Launch the model with a gentle throw along the horizon. By using adjusting wooden wedges placed between the pylon and the fuselage, achieve the lowest descent speed when gliding the model. After mastering the technique of such “piloting”, bravely use the model to demonstrate your design knowledge - for the fun of the public.

Modeling aircraft has fascinated both adults and children for decades. Aircraft made from plastic, wood, metal, composite materials. The final version today is probably the most famous, tea composites are strong and durable, they are created by an unnatural method by joining heterogeneous solid materials, which consist of several components that differ in their chemical and physical properties.

Instructions

1. Design your plane on paper. Remember, it depends on your plan what the aircraft will be like in appearance and functionality. There can be a lot of options, it all depends on your imagination and imagination. However, here we should also consider those factors that will influence the lifting of the unit, its flight and landing, that is, all parts of the aircraft must be proportional and accurate in measurements and calculations.

2. Calculate all the details of your aircraft. In this case, you should calculate not only the weight and geometric dimensions of the unit, but also consider the number of seats, engine power, the one you will use, stall speed, operational overload, aerodynamics, etc. All calculations should be made strictly according to the appropriate formulas.

3. Determine and mark on your paper plan where there will be butting connections, and where there will be supporting connections, where there will be adhesive connections, and where there will be welding, threaded or composite connections. It should be taken into account that the joints are usually subject to higher loads, and they should be made of metal elements.

4. Prepare all materials and tools for work. Make composites in those places materials where holes, threads and sockets for connections are required. Remember that the holes do not have to be located near glued seams and adhesive joints.

5. Clean the surfaces around the made threads and holes. Determine the locations of the rivets and make these types of connections.

6. Begin assembling your aircraft in accordance with calculations and a paper drawing (sketch), observing and connecting all the parts of the aircraft step by step. When assembling an aircraft from composite materials remember that first the wings and tail are assembled, and then the body, into which all the elements (parts) of the aircraft are inserted. Test the finished unit.

Construct airplane allowed using available means, spending a minimum of time and effort. Moreover, such an aircraft model, if properly adjusted, will be able to fly quite far away. Having erected several of these airplane ov, you will be able to compete with your friends in the flight range of your models.

You will need

• – a sheet of squared notebook paper;
• - match;
• - a triangular object.

Instructions

1. Take a sheet of notebook paper and draw on it drawings of the wing and tail of the aircraft in accordance with the diagram presented in the figure. Carefully cut out the parts and bend the keels on the tail along the dotted lines.

2. Take a match that will be used as the fuselage of a future airplane. The match must be of good quality, that is, straight-layered and even. Cut off part of it with a blade as shown in the picture. Clean the cut area with sandpaper. Now glue the tail unit (see picture). Use PVA glue or similar.

3. Find a triangular object on which you can balance the fuselage with the tail unit. For example, you can cut a triangular prism from wood yourself or use a triangular ruler. If the fuselage is not balanced in any way and the tail of the plane outweighs, glue a small piece of plasticine to the nose (to the sulfur head of a match). When the balance point is located, sweep it - this will be the center of gravity of your aircraft.

4. Glue the wing to the fuselage, making an indent towards the nose 2.5 mm from the center of gravity. After the wing is glued, you need to bend it approximately 8°, as shown in the figure.

5. Your plane is ready, but in order for it to fly perfectly, it needs to be tuned. Take it with two fingers and smoothly roll it horizontally. Follow his flight. If it immediately dives down, bend the horizontal part of the tail upward. If it quickly falls flat, on the contrary, you need to bend the tail unit slightly down. If the plane is turning to the right, you need to bend the bends on the tail to the left. If he turns left, you need to bend them to the right. By bending the left or right side of the wing, you will get rid of the tilt of the plane. If set up perfectly, your plane will fly straight and descend smoothly and will fly at least 8 meters.

Video on the topic

Polycarbonate is a current material often used for the manufacture awnings. It has a number of advantages: attractive appearance, light weight, and the ability to choose a color. Despite the fact that many companies offer to install a canopy from polycarbonate For a certain fee, this work can be carried out independently.

You will need

• – polycarbonate sheet;
• – metal pipes;
• – wooden slats;
• - dye;
• – self-tapping screws;
• – fasteners for polycarbonate;
• – drill;
• – hacksaw.

Instructions

1. Before making a canopy, take measurements and purchase the necessary components: polycarbonate itself, pipes, wooden slats, fasteners.

2. To attach the canopy you will need a frame, the size of which depends on the available free space. The shape of the canopy depends only on personal preference, because polycarbonate is quite elastic in order to take the shape of a semicircle.

3. Take 4 pipes and dig them into the ground to a depth of 30-40 cm, forming a square or rectangle. There should be a distance of about 1-1.5 meters between the pipes if the canopy is made of polycarbonate will be larger, the number of supports increases. They will be the basis of the frame for the canopy. If you want to achieve increased structural safety, cement the base of the pipes.

4. Make a frame from wood that in appearance resembles a window frame, the sides of which will be equal in size to the distance between the pipes. Inside the frame there should be several transverse slats located at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is to them that the polycarbonate will be attached. Treat the wood with stain or paint it so that the frame retains its shape longer.

5. Using corners with existing technical holes, attach the wooden frame to the pipes. The corners are attached to the pipes using metal screws. All kinds of screws can be used on the wooden part.

6. Cut a piece with a hacksaw or circular saw polycarbonate, the size of which should be 5-7 cm wider than the frame made.

7. Place the sheet on the frame and drill holes in it for fastening. They can be placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is advisable to carry out drilling initially at high drill cycles; opposite to the edge of the hole, the holes turn out to be torn.

8. Using self-tapping screws and special washers with wide heads, attach the sheet to the wooden frame. Leaks at fastening points can be avoided using rubber gaskets. To make the edges of the canopy look more carefully, it is worth putting on them special finishing profiles, which are sold in the same stores as polycarbonate.

Video on the topic

In Minecraft you can make trolleys, cars and even planes. Probably every Minecrafter dreams of moving through the air at unimaginable speed. And if you don’t yet know how to make a plane in Minecraft, then it’s time to learn.

Instructions

1. Unfortunately, it is impossible to make a plane without mods in Minecraft. In order to build a working winged transport, you need to download and drop the Flan’s Mod files into the minecraft.jar folder. In order for the mod to work correctly, you must also install the MinecraftForge utility on your computer. With the help of this software add-on you can make four-wing and six-wing aircraft.

2. You should start crafting an aircraft by making the tail. It is made of leather and metal. To make the body you need wood, and to make the wings you need sticks. All items must be placed on the workbench as shown in the picture below. A plane in Minecraft will not fly without a propeller. It requires steel and sticks to make.

3. In fact, making a plane in Minecraft turned out to be not that difficult. For its construction, no hard-to-find materials were needed. You can float in the air, surveying the area from a bird's eye view. But the plane can still bomb its enemies!

4. In order to make a combat aircraft in the game Minecraft, you need to make a machine gun and bombs. You will also need a place to store charges - coklit. All these things are easy to craft if you look at the picture. This is how you can arm an airplane made in Minecraft.

Video on the topic

A children's playground on the territory of a summer cottage or country house will allow your child to energetically spend time in the fresh air under your supervision. Choose a well-lit and wind-protected place for the play area and build a playground with your own hands.

Sandbox on the playground

For children, there must be a sandbox on the playground. It can be made using several methods from inexpensive materials. Build a sandbox from a tire from a tractor or other large machine. Cover the bottom with non-woven material, one that will allow moisture to pass into the soil, but will not allow the soil to mix with sand. Place a tire on top and fill the structure with sifted river sand. A wonderful sandbox can be made from stumps. Select the required number of stumps and treat them with an antiseptic so that the tree does not rot. Lay out the rope in a sandbox shape in the place where you plan to place it. You can get creative and give the sandbox the appearance of a boat, a flower with petals, an airplane, or make lightly curved silhouettes. Dig the stumps along the silhouette, the one marked with a rope. By using thick stumps located on one tier, children will also have paths along which they can run or sit. Build a sandbox supported by boards. First, dig a hole about 50 cm deep in the place where it will be located and fill it with crushed stone. In this case, after a rainstorm, the sand will quickly dry out. Screw a box out of four boards and four bars. Take the bars more reliably, so that their lower ends also serve as legs. Paint the wooden edge of the sandbox with shiny oil paint. On the sides you can draw cartoon characters or large berries and fruits. Dig the legs into the ground along the silhouette of the hole and fill it with sand for play.

Baby swing

When building a swing, it is very important to follow safety precautions. The supports must be strong and the fasteners must be secure. Also consider the presence of free space in front of and behind the swing. For supports, take two thick beams about 3 meters long. Treat it with antiseptic impregnation. Dig two holes, approximately 50 cm deep. Install the timber and fill it with concrete or cement. After the solution has dried, attach a metal water pipe on top of the supports. Tie a rope with a seat to the crossbar. If the seat is wooden, try to give its corners a rounded shape. It is comfortable to use a child's car seat for swings.

Playground houses

Kids love to hide in secluded places. Make a house on the playground. This could be a hut built from branches, or a tent that you can buy in a store. You can also make a fabric house independently. Make a frame from timber or bend it from metal-plastic pipes. Pull old sheets or curtains over it. Cut a window.

Elements for outdoor games

Mount a basketball hoop on a beam or tree. Determine its height based on the child’s height. You can make a labyrinth out of old tires. Cut them in half and dig them into the ground in a certain order. Install the horizontal bar. Make a flat badminton court.

I somehow decided to assemble my first home-made airplane, I was choosing between biplanes, I also wanted to make something like a katana, but I thought that all these airplanes could be bought anyway, but airplanes from the Second World War are sold only in aerobatics and then for an expensive price. from balsa. The choice fell on the Yak-3. Why? - I just liked it =)

When creating the aircraft, I partially relied on this article http://rc-aviation.ru/yak-3, there is also a link to the drawings.

Well, as always, the plane begins with printing out the drawing. The drawing that is in the archive, its left half is slightly larger than the right. The drawing itself was scaled in paint and printed on A4 using Excel. Of course, after the latest articles about the Yak-3, I realized that I didn’t choose the best drawings)

Then I decided to make a drawing 15cm larger; I no longer glued it completely together (due to the difference in the sizes of the left and right halves), but cut out the fuselage and wings separately and glued them together.

I tried the wing on a laminate backing, which they gave me for free at the building materials store. The spars are made of pine slats 2x0.5x400cm purchased at the same building materials market, it was too wide for the spar and I cut it in half with an ordinary stationery knife.

Next, I cut out the ribs and glued them to the spars using titanium; the spars themselves are glued with some kind of “the best glue for wood” - that’s what the saleswoman in the store told me, and in fact they glue it tightly.

While the wings were being glued together, I assembled the fuselage. The assembly was not particularly difficult.

Further, due to the tense situation in my area with stationery stores, which are NOT AVAILABLE, and in the neighboring area I found only ONE store in the basement of some shopping center, when I had already finished assembling the plane. Actually, the wooden rulers were bought on the other side of Moscow, and the rubber bands, which are convenient for fixing some parts on the plane during gluing, were bought in Auchan =)

The next stage was the creation of a V-shaped wing, for this there is part K22 in the drawing, it was made from two rulers glued end-to-end.

Then I glued the wing: a synthetic backing for the laminate, and a ceiling on top. Previously, I marked the positions of the ribs on the substrate with a pen, and accidentally glued this side outward. I secured everything with tape and left it to stick together for a day.

While the wing was drying, I glued the tail unit together from two layers of the ceiling. The fixed part of the rudder is fixed with a ruler, the elevator is also strengthened with a ruler, and the movable part with a pine strip. I made the loops from pieces of a ruler and a thread wound in a figure of eight between two pieces and secured with a moment; the thread itself is very strong, so I didn’t wind it too much. The hinges were secured with titanium.

Then, when the wing was dry, I glued plugs on the front and back - K11 on the back and K12 on the front, then I glued pieces of foam plastic on the front and ground them down to the desired shape. I glued a pin in front to attach the wing to the fuselage. Also in the photo you can see an air intake made of polystyrene foam, with which the wing is secured with a screw.

I sewed up the top of the fuselage in front - penoplex, and the rest - ceiling tiles, but how well it worked out for me, I cut off the top and decided to make it from penoplex. Motor frame made of three layers of ceilings + ruler.

The rods are made from paper clips, with .

The wing fastening inside the fuselage looks like this - 2 layers of ceiling, on top there is a ruler with a hole for a screw, and on the ruler there is another ruler with a nut glued in for a moment.

The servos are mounted from one ruler.

Each aileron is supported by three hinges made from a plastic bottle + hole punch; holes are cut in the wing to secure the hinges from inside the wing. The cabin is made of polystyrene foam - I glued a blank to the fuselage, cut it, sanded it and it's done. At the same time I tried on the tail unit. Even at that time, the rods for the tail were made from strings for the cornice, the guides were made from the rod of a gel pen glued into the frames, for some reason I didn’t take a photo.

In all the articles here, I haven’t seen anyone make a Yak-3 with a landing gear, and it was fundamental that the first takeoff would be from its own wheels =) The landing gear is made of knitting needles + hot glue + pine slats, also cut out in the wing a piece of substrate from the spar.

The racks turned out to be too long, then they had to be shortened. At the back there is simply a crutch made of string for the cornice fixed in a piece of pine batten. The exhaust pipes are made from a spray tube, the fairing is made from a piece of foam. White spots on the wing are an unsuccessful attempt to repair chips and cracks using napkins and pva.

From the ceiling I cut out fairings between the wing and fuselage. On the drawing -T46

Then there was a need to repair seams and chips in the penoplex, I looked for answers on the Internet, and eventually created a topic http://rc-aviation.ru/forum/topic?id=6496. I decided to seal it with polyurethane foam, it seemed like I could do everything in 2 approaches, but the foam compacted with my fingers is too dense, heavy and sands very poorly. By the way, I redesigned the fairings on the pipes, making them a little longer.

The foam covered large cracks, but there were a lot of voids on the surface, and in the end I settled on sealant, spread it on a spatula and walked around in the places where there were cracks, carefully covered everything and left it to dry, and also ground down the cabin a little (it was kind of big). I remade the fairings on the pipes again, making them even longer =). This is what the plane looks like before painting:

I painted the plane with Zvezda acrylic paints. Total it took:

No. 12 red acrylic - a third of the jar

No. 13 light blue acrylic - 2 jars

No. 21 green aviation interior acrylic - 2 jars

No. 55 protective acrylic - 2 jars

No. 02 gray-blue acrylic - third of the jar

No. 17 white master acrylic - a third of the jar

No. 20 black master acrylic - ~5 drops

No. 07 steel master acrylic - ~5 drops

Before painting, of course, it was necessary to cover the plane with foam paper...

The first layer turned out pale, streaky and sloppy.

I painted the cabin with blue-gray acrylic + a few drops of white acrylic. I couldn’t resist and drew stars - I drew a star in Word, printed it out, cut it out and then drew it like a stencil. I painted the white stripe by hand with a small brush. As a result, after applying the second layer of paint, I painted over all the stars.

Second coat of paint:

The pipes are painted steel, the texture of the cabin is complemented with black.

The wheels are made of three layers of ceiling, turned on a drill. I painted the wheels black and steel in the center using the same drill at low speeds.

After installing the electronics, I realized that I had not taken into account the center of gravity and placed the wheels a little behind... Because of this, the plane was leaning over the engine.

I recently found out about the store efly.ru, went to investigate, in the store I found carbon rods and slats at a reasonable price, but my eye fell on piano strings, I thought I’d go for new landing gear. I bought one string, and at the same time a set of magnets for attaching the cabin. I twisted the posts out of string, coated them with titanium under the posts and sealed them with tape (bad idea). There are also traces of a ballpoint pen on the wing; for some reason they did not want to be painted over.

To make it more realistic, I made an antenna. I glued a spring from an umbrella to the back of the cabin, and screwed a small self-tapping screw onto the rudder. I took a braided fishing line, made a loop on one side, put it on a self-tapping screw, and tied the other end to a spring. I made the fishing line a little shorter than the distance from the spring to the screw, and when the cabin falls into place, the spring tightens the fishing line.

I forgot about the slope, and out of habit from my other planes, I immediately take off with full throttle, but here I have to smoothly with the acceleration =)

Regulator - 30A of unknown origin

Battery - 1800mah 3s

Who might be interested:

The flight box purchased from OBI contains the transmitter, tools, propellers, batteries and other small items. A few small modifications - rubber bands on the bottom to secure the batteries, rubber bands to hold the propellers, and another rubber band for tools. Everything was glued with hot glue.

Some photos show a Cessna Corvalis with a 1500mm wingspan - my very first plane, thanks to which I almost gave up aircraft modeling, so it hung in the village for 2 years without action, so I decided to give it a second life =) By the way, the cooker for the Yak-3 was borrowed from him.

And finally, photos of all my planes.

After the Cessna, I trained to fly on an indestructible model for a beginner. In the comments to it, I expressed my opinion - anyone interested can read it =)

Thank you all for your attention!

Since childhood, many boys have been fascinated by technology, various cars, trains, and airplanes. They are of great interest in all elements that are directly related to these subjects. To get your child interested in creativity, invite him to make toys together that look like an airplane.

Children's crafts in the shape of an airplane will be a great way to spend time together with your child. You can have fun in your free time. In addition, such crafts can be done together with the children at children's parties.

The photo of airplane-themed crafts demonstrates the variety of models that you can make with your own hands.

Airplane made of wood

When creating an airplane from wood, the question arises, what can you make an airplane out of? To create an airplane craft, you need to have a clothespin, wooden sticks, acrylic paints, brushes, Moment glue, scissors and sandpaper.

Algorithm for creating a toy airplane

Let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to make an airplane. This will allow you to create a craft without any problems if you strictly follow the instructions for creating a toy airplane.

We take blue paint and paint the wings of the future airplane. Then we take red paint and paint the clothespins, which will later become the basis of the airplane. To create the hind wings, you need to cut the stick into two parts. Scissors must be used to round the cut edge.

The tail of the plane consists of a piece of stick. Cut a piece of 10 millimeters from the stick. To do this we use a stationery knife. The edge should not be smooth.

Using sandpaper, sand the surface of the wooden sticks. We paint the resulting parts and glue them together.

Cardboard airplane

To create this version of the airplane you will need blue cardboard, matchboxes, scissors, Moment glue, and cork.

We take a stencil and cut out all the parts of the aircraft, from which we will then create it.

We take a matchbox and glue it to the base of the plane. You need to cut out one small strip from cardboard, which you then glue to the base of the plane. Blanks of the same size are then glued on top of the matchbox on the other side.

To create a tail, you need to cut a strip measuring 50 millimeters by 10 millimeters. The edges are rounded on both sides. The resulting strip must be divided into three equal parts. Each strip should be 15 millimeters. To do this, you need to use a utility knife.

You need to glue stars to the airplane. They will become a real decoration of the model.

We take a wine cork. Using a utility knife, cut off a small circle. Next, apply a little glue to the surface of the cut piece of cork and glue it to the plane. Then you need to create a propeller. Its creation is described as a wooden airplane.

We take a needle that needs to be used to pierce the cork. Then we attach all the parts to the base of the plane. We create small flowers from several sheets of colored paper. To do this, you need to take a decorative hole punch. These leaves must be glued to the entire surface of the airplane.

Note!

Airplane from a bottle

To create an airplane from a bottle, you need to take the bottle itself. Using a knife, you need to make several slits into which you will later need to insert cardboard. This cardboard should look like the wings and tail of an airplane.

From thick cardboard we cut out a part that looks like a propeller. In the center of this figure you need to cut out a place for a plastic plug. It is necessary to install a propeller over the neck of a plastic bottle, and then screw on the plastic cap. This will allow you to secure the propeller to the plastic bottle.

After this, you can invite the child to paint the plastic bottle in the color he wants. The child will be happy to color the base of the plane and its wings.

Thus, crafts from airplanes will be ready. The presented options for creating children's airplanes allow you to quickly make a craft.

You can conduct a master class on airplane-themed crafts. This will make the children's party more interesting and at the same time useful.

Note!

You can make your own choice of materials for crafts with your own hands. If your child is interested in wooden crafts, then it is best to make an airplane out of wood, but if your child is interested in crafts from cardboard, then it is recommended to create a flower airplane.

Photo crafts airplane

Note!