Hand-buttoning is a sign of skill.
Renata: I once worked in a government tailor shop. There, absolutely all the loops are made only by hand. I needed to make buttonholes in a coat where the lining was made of velvet, and the buttonhole machine completely refused to make buttonholes. A super master made them for me. To begin with, the thread for the loop was necessarily treated with wax for strength, then the fabric was cut with a special device in the form of a loop with an eye, then a stitch was made around the cut - this was like a frame for the loop, and then the loop was overcast. Double thread, of course. The hinges looked amazing! The coat has long since fallen into disrepair, but it’s a shame to throw it away because of the loops - they are a work of art. At least cut it out and frame it on the wall.
When I sew on buttons, I rub the threads with wax - the button lasts longer.
MPFH: I'll add about waxing... For convenience, you need to cut ordinary threads to the distance that you usually use for your handwork. If there is no wax, you can replace it with a regular candle. You need to “pull” these cut threads through the candle twice, then lay them completely between two layers of material and iron them. After such waxing, the threads cannot be separated, only with scissors. Then wind them on an unnecessary reel.
I noticed that sometimes after ironing the threads, traces of the color of the threads remain on the material, which means some threads were dyed poorly, so waxing to some extent protects against shedding.
Handy girl: Everyone has their own cockroaches. I have these cockroaches - loops.
If you process a loop on a machine (no matter at home or at work), then first the loop is overcast, and then the fabric is cut (or cut) between the two edges of the loop. In this case, as a rule, either immediately or a little later, the fabric begins to fringe slightly. I don't really like it.
Please note that when made by machine, the front side of the loop looks much neater than the back side, due to the fact that the tension of the upper thread is weaker. If the model assumes that the backside of the loop will be fully demonstrated (a loop on a collar and top loops on a blouse, etc.), then you must agree that the appearance of the loop from the back is also important.
I first cut the fabric and only then overcast it. In this case, all the edges of the loops are immediately hidden under the threads, the edges of the loops look neat. And in this case, the front side looks more beautiful than the back, but the difference is not so striking.
Depending on the type of fabric, the thickness and type of threads vary (single or double, silk or cotton). It is very important to insert the needle into the fabric strictly perpendicular to the plane of the fabric. Otherwise, you can shift the layers of fabric by microns, and when making a buttonhole this is immediately noticeable.
Making a regular laundry loop on non-slip fabric of medium thickness.
At this stage the loop looks like this:
On the front side there are two short vertical stitches along the edges of the loop and a thread with a needle coming out of point 1. On the back side there are two long horizontal stitches and one short vertical stitch between points 1 and 2.
I described it the way I do it now. I recommend that, until you acquire the skill, you either pin the place where the loop is made with pins or sew it with threads so that the layers of fabric do not move. On thin fabrics where it is necessary to sew into one thread, the thread is secured not with a sliding loop, but with several short stitches, as in embroidery.
The smallest buttonholes I made by hand were for buttons with a diameter of about 1 cm. They looked good and did not take much time.
Loops with an eye are made in almost the same way. It is necessary to make a triangle cut from the side of the eye.
Sewing buttonholes for clothes can be made by hand, but buttonholes can be made quickly and accurately only on a sewing machine that comes with a special foot.
A buttonhole on a sewing machine can be sewn in automatic, semi-automatic and manual mode.
Learn more about the features of sewing a buttonhole on a sewing machine. What is the difference between automatic loop execution and semi-automatic mode. Which buttonhole mode is best to buy a sewing machine, etc.
1. Methods for making a buttonhole on a machine
The method of making a buttonhole on a machine depends on the class of the sewing machine and its technical capabilities. But the type of buttonhole made by household sewing machines is almost the same for all of them - a flat, straight buttonhole based on a zigzag stitch. And only electronic computerized machines, as well as household embroidery machines, have the ability to make buttonholes for clothes with an eyelet, several types and any sizes.
In the sewing industry, special machines are used to sew buttonholes; they are called buttonhole machines. For example, a class 25 buttonhole machine is used only for making straight buttonholes, with a hole cut into the fabric. But we are interested in how to make buttonholes on a household sewing machine, the sequence of sewing buttonholes in semi-automatic and manual mode, since in automatic mode the buttonhole is made without the participation of a seamstress.
Depending on the class of the sewing machine, the process of making a buttonhole can be automatic (automatic buttonhole), semi-automatic or manual. In all cases, a special buttonhole foot is used, except for manual mode. In manual mode, a foot is used to perform a zigzag stitch (Chaika sewing machine, etc.)
Many modern household sewing machines perform buttonholes automatically. To do this, just install a special foot, approximately the same as in the top photo. In order not to control the length of the loop, you need to install a button in the presser foot and do not forget to pull down the vertical lever for switching the speed of the machine down all the way.
Presser feet designed for sewing buttonholes in automatic mode allow you to avoid marking the size of the buttonhole on the fabric; the button fixed in the foot serves as a guide for the size of the buttonhole. The vertical lever, during the process of sewing a buttonhole, automatically switches the movement of the machine in the opposite direction, so do not forget to extend it. It is located on the top of the front cover and is used only for the hinge operation. It is better not to push it out unless necessary.
If you have a manual for your sewing machine, look at the section on how to make buttonholes, there should be detailed and clear instructions.
It is not necessary to install a button in the foot that you will sew on this garment. It can be oval or square in shape, have a leg, and even if you insert it into the paw, it will not stay in it and will jump out. You just need to select a flat button with approximately the same diameter as the buttonhole and install it in the foot.
Actually, the process of making an automatic sewing loop is very simple. You place the fabric under the presser foot, press the pedal of the machine, and it automatically moves in both directions, while performing all the necessary fastenings and switching. After finishing the work, the sewing machine will stop itself, ready to begin sewing the next loop. Automatically making a buttonhole with a button pattern installed greatly simplifies the work, but requires some skill, since there are a number of features.
On some sewing machine models, the stitch frequency of the zigzag stitch in reverse motion is different from the zigzag stitch frequency in forward motion. Therefore, additional “fine” adjustment of this operation is provided, when the zigzag frequency in the opposite direction is separately adjusted. However, not all models of sewing machines are equipped with this function and therefore the thread density on each side of the loop may differ.
On our website there are instructions for a Brother sewing machine. It contains a description of how to adjust the frequency of the zigzag loop in automatic mode.
Don't forget to also adjust the pressure of the presser foot on the fabric. In many cases, the presser foot pressure should be released, especially if the buttonhole will be sewn on a blouse made of light fabrics such as chiffon. If you do not adjust the pressure of the presser foot, the fabric under the presser foot will “snap”, shrink, and instead of a loop you will get a lump of thread.
Experienced seamstresses “insure” the movement of the fabric by pulling it by hand, but we do not recommend you do this, nor does the manufacturer. If the fabric is pulled by hand, serious damage to the sewing machine may occur. It’s better to make several test samples of buttonholes, adjust thread tension, presser foot pressure, select the optimal buttonhole size, etc. And only after that start “punching” the loops on the finished product.
Semi-automatic buttonhole making almost the same as the process of sewing a buttonhole in automatic mode. The only significant difference is that you must control this process. With this method of performing a loop, you need to turn on each of the 4 consecutive operations separately, manually switching modes. To do this, a knob for switching buttonhole sewing modes is installed on the front panel of the sewing machine.
Let's say you set your sewing machine to perform a buttonhole operation, lower the foot onto the fabric, and begin sewing a buttonhole. The first cycle can be started with any operation, including cross-tackling. In our example, we will first sew a small zigzag stitch forward, along the right side of the loop. Before reaching the line marked in advance with chalk, you need to stop the machine and switch, with the needle raised, to the wide cross-tack mode. Sew a few stitches and switch the handle to sew a buttonhole in the opposite direction, next to the stitch you have already sewn. The last operation is again a wide tack, only on the other side of the loop.
In the semi-automatic buttonhole mode, you have to constantly switch the operating mode of the sewing machine. At first glance, you might think that this is inconvenient. In fact, it’s the other way around, since the whole process is completely under control and you can always stop the machine, fix or straighten the fabric under the foot, increase the distance between lines, etc.
If you are just going to buy a sewing machine, we recommend choosing this option for making a loop. This is exactly the type of sewing loop that is available on the Janome economy class sewing machine. Based on our own experience, we can recommend buying a sewing machine with this method of sewing buttonholes. Despite the fact that we have both industrial buttonhole machines and automatic buttonhole machines, everyone uses a regular economy-class machine, which has exactly this option for sewing buttonholes.
Video on how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine in semi-automatic mode.
To sew a buttonhole manually, you only need to have the sewing machine perform a zigzag stitch. Making a buttonhole in manual mode is performed by such machine models as the Chaika sewing machine, Podolsk 142, Veritas 8014 sewing machine and some modern economy class machines costing less than 5,000 rubles.
For performing a loop A regular zigzag foot will do. Moreover, such machines do not have another special foot for the buttonhole. Making buttonholes by hand on a sewing machine is not very convenient, but if you have no other choice, you can try.
Be sure to mark the loop with chalk or baste this section of fabric with contrasting threads.
Adjustment of the stitch width and length of the zigzag stitch is done manually. Set the stitch length in the range from 0.3 to 1 mm, select the thread tension on a prototype, but usually from 1 to 5, that is, less than half. Install a zigzag foot on the machine, as already mentioned, with a wide narrow slot. Set the adjustment knob to the following position. To sew the sides of a buttonhole: stitch width - 0.2 cm.
Cross bartack: maximum width - 0.5 cm. When performing cross bartack, do not forget to set the stitch frequency to "0".
Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine requires some experience, and as paradoxical as it may sound, especially when done in automatic mode.
Try making a few "test" buttonholes first, preferably with all the interlinings and linings, repeating the area of the garment you will be making the buttonholes on. You will find that sometimes both sides of the zigzag stitch are so close that it is difficult to cut the fabric between them without damaging the stitch thread.
Sometimes, when moving backwards, the sewing machine “slips” and clumps of thread form. Sometimes you even have to undo the loop completely, which is extremely undesirable.
In thickened areas, the thread may break, loose stitches may appear at the bottom, etc.
Take these “nuances” into account and first set the correct thread tension. You can “tap” the thickened areas in advance with the handles of heavy tailor’s scissors.
Use long chalk lines to mark the loop so you can see where to stop the car. The foot is not made of glass and sometimes you have to stop the machine at random.
Watch to see if both zigzag stitches are too close to each other. With some skill, you can slightly shift the fabric, move the stitch, and “put it back” closer to the bartack.
Begin making a buttonhole by carefully lowering the needle into the fabric at the very beginning of the buttonhole.
Lower the presser foot and sew 4 or 5 stitches of the first wide bartack. Stitch length to "0".
Then lift the needle out of the fabric and set the zigzag width to a smaller width (as desired) and the stitch length to 0.5. Now start working the first side of the loop until it reaches the intended border.
Once you reach the end of the loop, lift the needle out of the fabric, set the zigzag width to maximum and the stitch length to 0.
Sew 4-5 stitches to create a second bar tack. Stop the machine with the needle in the left position.
Raise the presser foot and, without lifting the needle, turn the fabric and change the sewing direction.
Remove the fabric from the machine and make a slit in the loop with a special stitch opener, after inserting pins into the edges of the loop. They will be a reliable stop for the spreader blade, and you will not cut the loop more than necessary.
An embroidery machine has limitless possibilities, including making buttonholes. It can be used to sew not only ordinary straight sewing loops, but also eye loops. Eye loops of any size, shape and type, including those with reinforcing thread, can be made easily and accurately by this machine.
Modern sewing machines produce many types of stitches, but many of them are never used. And here making a loop in automatic or semi-automatic mode - this is a very popular operation. When buying a sewing machine, choose one that has this operation, even if you don't yet plan to make buttonholes for clothes.
Expensive sewing machines are required to make buttonholes, and this is done automatically. But you don’t have to buy just such a machine to make buttonholes on clothes. Many inexpensive economy-class sewing machines provide for sewing buttonholes in a semi-automatic mode. Please pay attention to this when purchasing a sewing machine. Sometimes, a small additional payment of 300 - 500 rubles will allow you to buy a sewing machine that makes buttonholes in a semi-automatic mode.
The sewing machine that makes buttonholes comes with a special foot. But, even if your machine does not have it, you can buy it separately at any sewing machine store. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. When purchasing a new extra foot, take with you any foot that came with your sewing machine.
To avoid damaging the loop when cutting it, use pins. The pins should not be too thick as they can sometimes leave puncture marks. This applies to thin and “delicate” fabrics, such as silk. For them, it is advisable to use very thin and sharp pins.
Next sewing lesson in video format from Fatima Kaznacheevskaya . In this video, she explains exactly how you can process buttonholes on your home machine, if it has the appropriate function for this. It is really very convenient when your home machine can process loops automatically or at least semi-automatically and has a special device for this.
Automatic mode is when the machine itself stops at a given buttonhole size and starts stitching in the opposite direction, stitching the other side of the buttonhole.
Semi-automatic - this is when it has a buttonhole size limiter that prevents you from going over the required size and you yourself switch the mode to sewing the other side of the buttonhole - also a completely acceptable option. Therefore, when doing this, be sure to pay attention to the presence of such functions, but also the price machines with automatic stitching will be higher
Observe copying rules site!
In the video, Fatima Kaznacheevskaya mentions where the loops should be located, telling how far they should be from the edge of the product. I would like to add to this topic and tell you more precisely how the location of the loops on a garment is determined and what determines it.
To be precise, the location of the loops on a garment is determined already at the design stage and is not tied to the edge of the product (this is a consequence), but to the center of the shelf.
See detailed diagram. It enlarges by clicking!
Location horizontal loops begins retreating from the center of the product at a distance of 1-3 mm. The distance depends (who would have thought) on button stem thickness - the thicker it is (and these are usually coat buttons), the greater the number of mm from the center (3-maybe even 4). If the button does not have a stem, it will still be made of thread, so all proportions remain the same for buttons with holes. The loops are positioned in exactly this way so that when fastened, the buttons are visually in the center of the product, which is why you need to step back a little from the center to give room for the foot of the button.
Of course, depending on the size of the future button, which the product designer is already thinking about, the half-skid of the product is also selected (the distance from the center to the edge of the shelf): the larger the buttons, the greater the semi-skid. Therefore, it is automatically larger on outerwear than, say, on light blouses.
Vertical loops are always located strictly along the center line of the product.
As for Fatima Kaznacheevskaya , I remind you that she is the author of courses on sewing technology:
"Secrets of a Seamstress" and "Jacket from A to Z ".
February 21 2012 a new video course will go on sale " Sew a jacket» on a very popular and in-demand topic Don’t miss out on the first discounts!
Finished loops are cut before they are stitched. They are usually made on double fabric and through products. Fabric that frays easily can be sealed on the back with a fusible seal, and cut edges can be hemmed before buttonhole stitching is done. Usually, for sewing loops, use a single thread, standard for sewing light fabrics. Special threads are used for sewing buttonholes on medium-weight and thick fabrics.
Let's learn how to make a buttonhole by hand.
Types of hand loops
Ends - round and square
These loops are always placed horizontally on the product. The buttoned button sits in the rounded end of the loop, which supports it, makes it easier to fasten and unfasten and prevents the slit from tearing.
Square ends
Such loops are placed vertically. When the product is buttoned, the button sits slightly below the buttonhole. Loops are made mainly on shirts and on household clothing and linen.
Rounded ends
This is how vertical loops with a cut through which a cord or ribbon passes are processed. The width of the loop is determined by the width of the ribbon or the volume of the cord. Loops are used for outerwear made of dense fabrics.
Keyhole
A loop for a horizontal position, with a small hole at the rounded end and with stitching, which is done over a thin cord. The hole allows you to use any buttons with a large voluminous stem.
How to make a buttonhole by hand?
On front slits, horizontal loops cover the center line of the garment by 3mm. Below is a method for processing a loop with one rounded end and one square end. The rounded end is designed to hold the button under tension. Vertical loops are made in the same way, only both ends are rounded or both ends are square.
Mark the line of loops. Use a short 2mm stitch on thin fabrics and a longer stitch on thick ones. Sew a rectangle directly under the stitch length on the outside and around the buttonhole marking (top).
Cut the loops in the center of the markings. Serge the raw edges to avoid fraying. Working along the right side with the rounded end of the loop on the left, secure the end of the thread with small stitches in the opposite direction at the bottom corner
Sew a buttonhole stitch along one long edge. Insert the needle from bottom to top, onto the front side of the product (at the top). Pass the thread behind the eye of the needle and under the tip. Pull the thread so that the resulting knot covers the cut edge.
Place stitches very close together to cover the raw edge. Sew five or seven slightly longer stitches around the end of the loop (top). The center stitch should be flush with the cut edges.
Sew a buttonhole stitch along the other edge. Sew through the knot of the first stitch, removing the needle under the last stitch. Make a strip of three or four long stitches to work the rectangle edge of the buttonhole (above).
With the tip of the needle pointing toward the loop, starting at one end, use a loop stitch to sew across the long stitches (at the top), catching the fabric of the piece at the bottom. The stitches should form an even row of knots.
Those who sew clothes with their own hands know that the overall appearance of the product largely depends on how the sewing buttonholes look. It is the stitching of the buttonhole that is considered the most important operation, which is most often impossible to redo “without traces”. Therefore, before making a buttonhole on a sewing machine, especially in the “automatic” mode, be sure to try making a test buttonhole on a piece of fabric that has the same number of fabric folds and adhesive materials.
In this article we will give you some useful tips on how to make buttonholes on a sewing machine in automatic mode with a special foot, and in semi-automatic mode with a regular zigzag foot.
Video on how to make buttonholes on a sewing machine in four steps.
It is easier to sew buttonholes on thick woolen fabrics, since the machine moves the fabric well in both directions, without any problems. But when the fabric is very thin and delicate, the small pitch of the zigzag stitch can “slip”, and an incorrectly adjusted rack (teeth) can pull the fabric under the foot. In both cases, the sewing loop will have to be redone, and most often with consequences in the form of punctures in the fabric, and sometimes tears.
Therefore, first set up the sewing machine. Adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads. Adjust the height of the rack (if there is such an adjustment). Check the pressure level of the fabric foot. In order for the fabric to move confidently under the foot, it must be pressed well against the teeth. For thin fabrics, the teeth cannot be raised high, otherwise the fabric will be chewed.
Don’t forget to attach a special lever to the presser foot that automatically switches the operating mode of the machine. Those sewing machines that come with a foot like the one in this photo must also have a lever for making automatic buttonholes.
Sewing a buttonhole in the "automatic" mode
For a foot that makes a buttonhole in automatic mode, there is no need to mark the buttonhole on the fabric. One vertical and one horizontal landmark is enough. The machine will automatically determine the size of the buttonhole based on the size of the button installed in a special mount on the foot. But this foot does not have such a device, however, the size of the loop can be set visually. However, read about this in detail in the instructions for your sewing machine. Our task is to protect you from common mistakes made when sewing buttonholes.
And one of them is that they often make mistakes with the size (loop length). Place a button in the foot and immediately punch through the loop. As a result, it turns out that its size does not correspond to the diameter of the button. First check what the loop will be like by making at least 5-7 prototypes.
In the automatic buttonhole mode, the operation cannot be stopped unless the power of the machine is turned off. But you can always manually operate the reverse lever. And in some cases, this opportunity can help you out, just practice.
In fact, this sewing machine is designed to sew automatic buttonholes, but we will show you how you can use it to sew buttonholes in a semi-automatic mode, with the ability to control the process of sewing loops.
To do this, you need to replace the special foot with a regular zigzag foot and be sure to pull the reverse lever down (all the way).
We begin to sew a loop. At the same time, you can clearly see each stitch of the loop and, most importantly, you can always stop the machine if necessary.
Once the stitches reach the desired border, you only need to switch the lever in the opposite direction. Moreover, the machine can be temporarily stopped.
You see how beautifully, and most importantly, while controlling the process, you can make a buttonhole using a regular zigzag foot. But the main thing this method allows you to do is to create a good gap between the stitches (slightly move one of the sides), which will allow you to carefully cut a hole for the button.
This is actually a fairly important part of making a buttonhole because it is very easy to damage the bartack threads and overcast stitches when cutting the buttonhole.
To make it easier to cut a buttonhole, learn to slightly move one side of the stitching while the machine is stopped.
And in order not to damage the securing stitches, it is enough to put two pins, as in this photo.
Now you can check how the button fits into the cut loop and then sew the button.
The button should fit tightly so as not to unfasten arbitrarily when worn. In addition, over time, the buttonhole will increase slightly, so a little force when inserting the button into the loop will not hurt.