What appears first on any suburban area? Do you think it's a fence? No, water appears first on the site. Without it, neither construction, nor living, nor maintaining the beds is possible. At the beginning of the “dacha” stage of life, the owners are engaged in arranging their home, garden and vegetable garden, but after a few years comfort comes to the fore. And when running to the well with a bucket gets boring, summer residents decide to install a summer water supply.

Choosing the type of construction

Before you start laying pipes, you need to decide on the type of water supply: permanent or collapsible.

Advantages and disadvantages of permanent installation:

• the pipes are underground and do not lie underfoot;
• installation is carried out once;
• if the pipes are absent for a long time, they will not steal them (thieves are unlikely to dig in the ground);
• to prepare the system for wintering, you just need to open the drain valve and wait until all the water drains;
• material costs are slightly higher than when organizing a collapsible structure;
• the process is labor-intensive, especially if you have to dig a deep trench;
• the need to lay pipes on a slope;
• If there is a hole, it is more difficult to find and repair.

If a collapsible water supply system is chosen, the pipes can lie on the ground or be raised above it

Pros and cons of a collapsible design:

• quickly assembled and disassembled if necessary;
• if the pipes were damaged, then finding and eliminating the hole will not be difficult;
• the cost of a dismountable device is slightly lower than a permanent one;
• pipes lie underfoot;
• if you are away for a long time in the summer, pipes or hoses left unattended may simply be stolen;
• the need for assembly and disassembly at the beginning and end of the season.

How to make summer water supply at your dacha with your own hands - step by step steps

The installation of a water supply system first of all involves drawing up a project. It should indicate points of water consumption, existing underground communications, paths and buildings. If in the future it is planned to place any structures, flower beds or structures, it is also advisable to note them, especially if the structure will be permanent.

Wiring diagram

When drawing up a water supply project, you need to take into account the placement of all buildings and objects, as well as plan for the appearance of new ones

When designing a permanent structure, it is important to remember that all pipes must be laid at a slope relative to the point of connection to the water intake.

Pipes in the trench must be laid downhill. This will allow you to drain water from the system for the winter and avoid pipe ruptures.

They come out of the ground only in places of consumption. A drain valve is installed at the lowest point of the system. In the fall, all the water needs to be drained, otherwise it will burst the pipes.

It is better to purchase pipes made of plastic or polyethylene. They are conveniently connected using flexible hoses. This will make it easy to redesign the permanent water supply system. You can connect pipes with plastic fittings or soldering. You will also need tees, taps and angles.

In addition, it is necessary to dig a trench into which the pipes will be laid. The depth is usually 30-40 centimeters.

However, if the pipes will pass directly under the beds, and there is a high probability that they can be caught with a shovel or cultivator, then it is better to increase it to fifty to seventy centimeters. Of course, this is a large amount of work, but if the pipes are broken, then finding a leak will be much more difficult.

The depth of the trench for a summer water supply is much less than for a regular one. It ranges from thirty to seventy centimeters

If the choice is made in favor of a collapsible scheme, then you can use not only plastic pipes, but also ordinary rubber hoses. They are connected by jumpers, pieces of pipes or special fasteners, which allow you to separate or connect two sections of water supply with one movement.

Necessary materials

Most often, pipes are laid due to the need to water the garden. To provide water to a garden of ten acres, you will need the following materials:

Using fittings allows you to assemble a summer water supply for irrigation in just one day. At the same time, the connection point is sealed and can be easily disassembled

Installation stages

1. 
   

Summer plumbing is not only a great way to avoid unnecessary work, but also an opportunity to create an “urban” standard of living for those who live outside the city from April to October; you can wash dishes under the tap, connect a washing machine, and organize a hot shower.

Every summer resident, especially those accustomed to comfort, understands the importance of running water in a house outside the city. It’s hard to imagine proper care of the area near the estate without it, and the use of household appliances becomes impossible. Every owner of a country estate can build a water supply system at his dacha with his own hands!

How does an autonomous water supply work?

Installation of a water supply system is ideally considered during the process of creating a house project. At this stage, a clear action plan is drawn up, a diagram of the pipeline and mechanisms is drawn. An estimate must first be calculated and the necessary materials and equipment must be purchased. It is best for a separate, small-sized room on the ground floor of the house, with an area of ​​2-3 m2, to be allocated for the installation of the boiler-water meter unit. If you install the input unit and technical devices this way, then during operation it will be convenient for you to regulate the water supply and, if necessary, repair the system.

So, the water supply system consists of the following links:

1. Pipeline complete with shut-off valves and fittings. In this case, the pipes used do not have to be metal; they can be polypropylene or metal-plastic.
2. Mechanisms for supplying water - a submersible pump or pumping station.
3. Devices for regulating pressure in the system. This could be a relay, a pressure gauge and an expansion tank.
4. Electrical support equipped with automatic control.

List of tools

To install a water supply system of any complexity, you will need tools such as:

• Set of wrenches: gas no. 2, adjustable and wrenches - no. 17, 19, 22 and 24.
• Pipe cutter.
• Pencil, knife and tape measure.
• Sanding paper.
• If you chose polypropylene pipes, then you should purchase an electric soldering iron.
• If the pipes are metal, then you need a saw specially designed for this purpose.
• Hacksaw.
• Crowbar and shovel.

Before you start digging a trench, you should mark the water supply route on your property. To do this, take all measurements using pegs, string and a measuring tape.

Note! A thoughtful approach to work will help you save not only costs, but also precious time, so carefully count the number of pipes, taps, angles, valves, fittings and other important elements.

Summer water supply

Summer water supply is a water supply system that can be used exclusively during the warm season. It is usually used for watering plantings, connecting a summer shower and for household needs. Operation of such a system in the winter cold is impossible. Summer water supply can be either collapsible or permanent.

The simplest installation method is to run the hoses directly along the ground. To do this, you should use silicone or rubber pipes connected to each other by adapters. They are sold in all construction stores. Adapters made of galvanized steel have better characteristics, but they are more expensive, so many people prefer their plastic counterparts. In addition, special latches can be used as a hose connector. On one side there are some “ruffs” on which the hose is put, and on the opposite side there is a spring-loaded connector. In one movement you can both connect and disconnect the latch. The joint turns out to be very reliable. If you are interested in purchasing a durable material, then pay attention to a thick-walled rubber hose, because it is reinforced with nylon fibers. Its service life is at least 15 years.

If you prefer to create a permanent summer water supply system, then the pipes should be laid in the ground, and the water taps should be brought to the surface. The depth of the trench should not be large. The pipeline is covered with earth in order to avoid tripping over the pipes and to hide them during the absence of the owners of the dacha.

Note! During the installation of the system, you will have to lay all the pipes at a slope, which should be directed towards the connection to the main line. This will be the lowest point of the plumbing system. Here you should screw the drain valve, with its help you can drain the water from the system for the winter. Otherwise, the water will rupture the pipes after freezing, even if they are plastic!

Winter water supply

A capital winter water supply system can be used all year round, regardless of whether it is cold outside or not. If there is a well on your personal plot, then running water can be done without difficulty. For this purpose you will need a submersible pump. The choice of device power largely depends on the depth of the well from which the water supply will be organized. You can read the technical characteristics of the unit in the relevant documentation for it or by talking with a specialist.

The submersible pump is always connected to electricity. All electrical wires can be placed in one casing with water pipes. This way, you can prevent mechanical damage to communications and protect them from exposure to cold. High-quality installation of a water supply system implies compliance with all specified technical conditions and standards. The pipeline must be laid below the freezing level of the ground. Dig a trench about 60-100 cm deep. You will have to fill the water pipe itself with insulation; its thickness should be about 30 cm. This can be foam chips, expanded clay or other suitable insulation material. The main thing is that it is moisture resistant and durable.

Build a pit near the well, approximately 70x70 cm in size and about 1 m deep. It is needed to connect the pump. The walls should be lined with boards, concrete rings or bricks. If you prefer boards, please note that they should first be treated with antiseptic preparations. The bottom can be filled with concrete or simply covered with a layer of gravel. A pipe with a special fastening for the hose that extends from the pump, as well as electrical wires, should be led into the finished pit. So, you can disconnect and connect the unit if necessary, for example, for repair work. It is important to protect the pit from freezing; to do this, insulate it. To create a safe electrical connection, use sealed connectors or waterproof outlets.

Note! Regardless of what type of water supply you choose: summer or winter, make it so that if it breaks down, the fault can be fixed without completely dismantling the system.

Installation of a water supply system

To safely install a water supply system in your dacha, you should stock up on strength and patience. The dug trenches should be carefully checked to see if the depth is correct, the bottom is cleaned, the slope is correct, etc. Now you can immerse the deep pump into the well or well.

Connect the device according to the instructions supplied with the unit. The pipe must fit the fitting to which the hydraulic accumulator or pressure gauge or pressure switch is connected. After connecting the mechanisms, you will need to connect the main pipe to the last terminal and lead it into the house through the trench. This is where the armored cable needed to power all equipment is laid. It is very important that a well with shut-off valves be made at the entrance to the building, which will provide good access to the water supply system during maintenance or repairs. Now you can begin installing filters, laying water pipes directly throughout the house, organizing water heating and final connections.

Do you already have experience installing water pipes in your country house? Perhaps you encountered any difficulties during the process? What helped you cope with them? Perhaps you have invented an innovative installation method? Write us comments, your experience is valuable!

In any private house outside the city, one of the priority works is installing a water supply system. This cannot be called a simple matter, especially if the building is not new for a long time, but many of the works on installing a water supply system can be done even with your own hands.

Scheme

Drawing up a diagram can be called a fairly important matter that should not be neglected. When the decision about the presence of a water supply system has been made, you need to draw a diagram according to which it will be laid in the house. It is important to take into account all elements, including filters, pumps, boilers, collectors, etc. The path along which the pipes will be laid, as well as the placement of all other elements, is plotted on the diagram along with the designation of distances. This will help you calculate the required number of pipes.

In the diagram, pipe laying can be marked in 2 ways:

• Connecting in series. It is recommended for small houses, since this scheme requires a main pipeline, and a tee is provided from it to each water consumer. With a large number of consumers, the pressure will be insufficient.
• Using a collector. Separate pipes go from it to consumers, so the pressure will be equal in all parts of the house. The cost of this option is more expensive, since the number of pipes will be greater.

Let's look at the most common scheme. The pipe from the source of water intake is led towards the pumping station, where there is a valve that prevents the return of water. The outlet pipe pumps water into the accumulator, and a tee is installed behind it. Pipes for technical needs and for home water supply depart from the accumulator.

The pipe carrying water for use in the home leads to a purification system to rid the water of harmful impurities. A tee intended for dividing the water is again installed behind the water purification system. The pipe that conducts cold water is directed to the collector, and the pipe that conducts future hot water is supplied to the heater. Shut-off valves are installed on the lines to water consumers from the cold water supply collector. From the water heater, the pipe passes into the hot water collector, and then the pipes are distributed throughout the building.

DIY installation

The most difficult and dusty work when laying water pipes is creating holes in the floor and walls. The remaining tasks (cutting and connecting pipes, installing a pumping station, connecting filters, connecting pipes to the collector and water consumers, and others), although they take a lot of time, do not require significant physical strength. And therefore, even a beginner can arrange everything on his own.

Types of pipes depending on material

Having planned the installation of a water supply system, the first task will be to select pipes, in particular the material from which they will be made.

Copper

Such pipes are the most expensive, but are considered the best. Copper pipes are not harmed by corrosion, microbes, ultraviolet radiation, increased pressure, temperature changes, or harmful additives in water.

Metal-plastic

These are aluminum pipes lined with plastic on both sides. Deposits do not accumulate on such pipes and rust does not develop. They are not affected by condensation or ultraviolet radiation from the outside. The disadvantages of such pipes are sensitivity to increased temperature (they deform at 95 degrees and above) and freezing.

Steel

Advantages of steel: durability and strength. Disadvantages: rust formation, labor-intensive work (the need for welding and threading when connecting).

Polypropylene

They are distinguished by good technical characteristics, durability (service life for 50 years), and ease of installation. For hot water supply, pipes made of polypropylene with reinforcement were created.

Such pipes do not oxidize and do not need frequent inspection, so they can be hidden under plaster. The difficulty in choosing such pipes lies only in the need to use a special welding machine to connect them.

Choosing the correct diameter is also important. If it is insufficient, then due to turbulence of the water flow, more lime will be deposited on the walls, and the movement of water will create more noise.

The diameter is selected taking into account that water should move at a speed of up to 2 m/s. It is also important to base the choice on the length of the pipeline. For a length of up to 10 m, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm will be sufficient; for a length of 10-30 meters, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are suitable, and for a longer pipeline length, choose pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.

To correctly determine the diameter of the pipes for a house with a large number of residents, it is important to take into account the simultaneous water consumption in the house - how many appliances and taps will be turned on at once (how much water they will flow per minute). For a small family, but with a large number of water-consuming appliances, you need to calculate the total water consumption of all points, and then subtract 25-40%.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

The connection of pipes made of polypropylene, including reinforced ones, is made by welding:

1. The pipes are cut with special scissors, obtaining sections of a certain length.
2. Mark weld areas that need to be cleaned using a damp alcohol wipe.
3. Having installed the necessary attachments on the welding machine, turn on the device and set the temperature on it.
4. After heating the device (the lights go out), we slide the pipe sections onto the nozzles up to the marks, but without turning them.

When the pipes are already installed, wait a few seconds and remove the nozzles (let your assistant hold the device), after which we clearly and quickly connect the pipes and hold them together for a while. The result will be a smooth connection. When you don’t like the result, the connection section is cut off and the procedure is carried out all over again. The welded pipes are left to cool briefly and then used.

Installation of water supply in private houses

1. Prepared pipes are laid in the house, starting from water consumers.
2. The pipes are connected to the consuming point with an adapter so that a tap can be installed to shut off the water.
3. Pipes are laid to the collector. It is advisable not to pass pipes through walls or partitions, and if this must be done, enclose them in glasses.

For easier repairs, place the pipes at a distance of 20-25 mm from the wall surfaces. When installing drain taps, create a slight slope in their direction. The pipes are attached to the walls with special clips, installing them in straight sections every 1.5-2 meters, as well as in all corner joints. To combine pipes at angles, fittings and tees are used.

When connecting pipes to the collector, a shut-off valve is always installed (it is needed for repairs and the possibility of shutting off water consumption).

Try to make minimal angles or turns so that less pressure is lost.

We carry water from the well

Water enters the well from shallow layers, so it often contains many impurities. Such water without purification is used for domestic and economic needs, and in order to make it drinkable, it is necessary to carry out water treatment, having previously submitted the water for analysis. The main advantage of constructing a well is that its construction does not require permission from government organizations.

We carry water from the well

Since the water comes from deep layers, it is cleaner than well water and has a stable chemical composition. Most often, such water is free of microorganisms and harmful compounds. When choosing this option for a water source for a private home, keep in mind that drilling a well requires a design and its approval.

Centralized water supply

It is ideal that the water supply to a private building comes from a borehole or well, as this will give your water supply system autonomy. However, you can connect the building to the central water supply (even if it is a backup source).

A permit is required to connect to the water main. Engineers from the organization operating the central water supply system will evaluate your project, the power of your pump, and the volume of water consumption. To control water consumption, you will also need to install meters.

Laying water pipes

The outer part of the water supply can be laid openly or hidden in a trench. If the underground option is chosen, then it is important to install communications taking into account the depth of soil freezing. When installing a pipeline above the freezing level or above the ground, care should be taken to ensure thermal insulation.

Water is pumped from the source by a pumping station, which is usually located in the basement, on the 1st floor or in the basement. It is advisable to place the station in a heated room so that the water supply system functions in winter. A fitting is placed on the pipe from the source to the pumping station so that when repairing the water supply system, the water can be turned off. A check valve is also connected.

If you need to turn the pipe, you need to use a corner. After this, with a quick connection we install a ball valve, a filter for coarse cleaning, a pressure switch, a hydraulic accumulator (if the pump is located in a well or in a well), a sensor against “dry” running, a filter for fine cleaning and an adapter. Finally, the serviceability is checked by starting the pump.

It is represented by a sealed 2-section tank with water in one compartment and air, which is under pressure, in the other compartment. Such a device is needed to stabilize the pressure in the system and turn the pump on/off. When you open a faucet in a building, water flows out of this apparatus, which reduces the pressure. The result will be the relay activating and turning on the pump to increase the pressure.

The volume of the tank is selected taking into account the needs of the people living in the house. It can be 25-500 liters. Installing a hydraulic accumulator is not a prerequisite - you can use a storage tank on the top floor or attic, then the pressure for water flow will be created by the weight of this tank. However, such a system will not work if there is a washing machine in the house.

Water purification and preparation

The water in your source will have to be tested in a laboratory, identifying soluble salts and other impurities. This is necessary for selecting filter systems. After passing through the hydraulic accumulator, the water enters the water purification system, located 0.5-1 meters from it.

Installation of collector and boiler

After the purification system, the water is separated into 2 streams. One is for cold water and goes to the manifold, and the second is for hot water and goes to the heater. It is mandatory to install a drain valve on all collector pipes and in front of it, as well as shut-off valves. The number of pipes will be determined by the number of water consumers.

A drain valve, a safety valve, and an expansion tank must be installed on the pipe leading to the heater. You will also need a drain valve in the place where the hot water will come out. After this, the pipe is directed to the collector, which will contain hot water.

Maintenance and repair

The operation of the water supply system should always be monitored, and any leaks or other problems should be corrected without delay. If there is a small breakthrough at the site of damage, you can install a rubber gasket secured with a clamp.

For quick repairs, you can use cold welding, covering the breakout area after degreasing with acetone.

If there is a fistula in a new pipe, a bolt is screwed into the drilled hole (if the pipe is old, this method is not suitable, since it will lead to an increase in the fistula).

The importance of a full-fledged water supply in the countryside cannot be overestimated. Without a constant water supply, caring for the area becomes extremely labor-intensive, and ordinary washing of dishes turns into a real challenge, not to mention the use of modern household appliances that require connection to a water supply and.

That is why almost every owner of a summer cottage wants to equip a full-fledged water supply system. It is quite possible to cope with the solution of this problem with your own hands. This is, firstly, an invaluable experience, and secondly, an excellent opportunity to save money by refusing the services of third-party craftsmen.

It is better if the planning of the water supply is carried out at the stage of drawing up the design of the summer cottage and house. A full-fledged project includes a number of drawings and documents, including:

To do this, you need to allocate a small room on the ground floor of the house. A room of 3-4 m2 will be sufficient. It is more convenient when the water input unit and the necessary technical devices are located in the same room - this gives the owner the opportunity to fully control the water supply process.

A typical private water supply system includes the following equipment:

• pipeline. Products made of polypropylene, metal-plastic and metal are suitable;
• set of taps and fittings;

  

• pump;

  

• pressure gauge;

  

• expansion tank;

  

• pressure switch;

  

• electrical support with full automatic protection;
• purification filters for removing suspended particles and various types of contaminants from the water;

  

• Installed as needed. In most cases, the cumulative model is more convenient.

  

Selecting a water supply source

In the process of designing a country water supply system, you need to choose the optimal source of water. Check out the available options and choose the one that best suits your case.

The simplest and most convenient option. It is important that the pressure in the system is sufficient to deliver water to the building. Otherwise, you will need to additionally buy a pump or consider other methods of water supply.

Water will be supplied to the building through a system of pipes and fittings.

In this case, to install a water supply system, you usually do not need to buy any additional devices - you simply need to dig a trench, lay down the water supply elements and cut into the central main line.

If you don't have access to a central highway, consider the following options.

The method is suitable for areas with an underground aquifer depth of at least 8-10 m.

The well shaft is equipped with the efforts of 2-3 people - doing it alone is too long and difficult.

The main advantage of the option under consideration is the extreme simplicity of the system - you can maintain and repair it on your own. Maintaining such a well in good condition does not require significant costs.

The main disadvantage is the strictly limited water supply. Not every individual well can provide as much water as is necessary to satisfy all the needs of the family.

Before choosing this option, calculate the amount of water you need and determine how much water the well can provide.

The installation of a water supply system based on a shaft well requires the use of a surface pump. The equipment is relatively inexpensive and easy to maintain.

Surface pump for country water supply from a well

Well

If the underground aquifer lies deeper than 8-10 m, you will have to drill a well. The pleasure is not cheap - drillers charge quite a significant amount of money for their work.

But, having spent money once on installing a well, you will provide your dacha with clean water in the required volumes. If you want to save money, you can try to negotiate with your neighbors and make one well for several houses.

To install a water supply system in this case, you will need a special well or. Such equipment is much more expensive than its surface counterparts, but in terms of efficiency in providing clean water, it has no equal.

Summer and winter water pipes

Previously, you most likely heard such definitions as summer and winter water supply systems. Study the basic properties of these options; it is quite possible that even the simplest summer option will be able to satisfy your needs. Otherwise, you can immediately proceed to study the following sections of the manual, devoted to the arrangement of a full-fledged water supply system.

Summer option

The features of such a water supply system are clear from its name - the operation of such a system is possible only during the warm period. There are stationary and collapsible modifications of the system.

The collapsible summer water supply system has a very simple design: it is enough to connect the hoses to a pump with suitable parameters and lay them along the surface of the soil so that they do not interfere with normal movement around the summer cottage.

Silicone and rubber hoses are suitable for arranging the system. The connection is made using special adapters. Also available in specialized stores are more modern products for connecting hoses - latches. One side of such a latch is equipped with a spring-loaded connector, and the other has a “ruff”. With the help of such latches, hoses are connected quickly, securely and easily.

Most often, such a collapsible system is used for irrigation. It makes no sense to organize a full-fledged water supply on its basis to solve domestic needs.

Laying of a stationary summer water supply system is carried out underground. Flexible hoses are not suitable for arranging such a system. The best option is plastic pipes.

Pipes of a stationary seasonal water supply are laid at a meter depth. After the end of the season, water must be pumped out of the pipes, otherwise, with the arrival of cold weather, it will freeze and ruin the pipeline.

In view of this, the pipes must be laid with a slope in the direction of the drain valve. The valve itself is installed near the water source.

Winter option

This type of water supply can be used throughout the year.

Pipes made of polyethylene and polypropylene are suitable for arranging the system. The former are sold at a lower price and are installed without the use of special tools. The latter are somewhat more expensive and require the use of a soldering iron for pipes during installation. However, in the end, you will spend more money on additional parts for installing polyethylene-based pipes than on additional products used when installing polypropylene pipes.

Water pipes are laid with a slight slope towards the water supply source. The pipeline should pass 200-250 mm below the freezing point of the soil.

There is also an option with pipe laying at a depth of 300 mm. In this case, additional insulation of the pipeline is required. Foamed polyethylene performs excellent thermal insulation functions. There are special cylindrical products. It is enough to simply put such rounded polypropylene on the pipe and as a result the product will be reliably protected from cold and other adverse influences.

Not only the winter water supply pipes, but also the water source need additional insulation.

For example, a well is insulated for the winter and covered with snow. These measures will be sufficient to protect the structure from the cold.

Surface pumping equipment, if used, is equipped with a caisson. A caisson is a pit with additional insulation, located next to a water supply source equipped with a pump.

Installation of automatic pumping stations can only be carried out in a room where the air temperature does not drop to negative levels even in the most severe frosts.

The sewer system also needs insulation. If it is absent, the drains will freeze and disrupt the operation of the drainage system.

Drafting

Start by drawing up a system design. First of all, decide on the equipment. Specify the location of water intake points, calculate the required number of fittings, select the optimal material and type of water pipes.

Plastic pipes are used most often. These are durable and reliable products that fully cope with all the tasks assigned to them. At the same time, plastic pipes do not rust, which allows them to be sewn into walls, unlike their metal counterparts.

Draw up a detailed diagram of the future water supply system. Indicate all dimensions on the drawing. This way you can calculate the optimal footage and determine the required number of components. In this case, it is recommended to buy components with a 10-15 percent reserve.

You must also decide whether you will choose and buy all the necessary equipment yourself, or whether you will immediately buy a ready-made water intake station. At this point, be guided by your personal preferences.

Installation of plumbing system components

First step

Dig a trench from the water source to the point where the pipe enters the building.

Second step

Deep-type equipment is lowered into a water supply source. Surface pumps are mounted next to a well or well. The pump is installed in a heated room or in a caisson.

Third step

Connect the water pipe to the installed pump. Attach the free end of the connected pipe to a fitting with five terminals.

Fourth step

Connect a storage tank, a pressure gauge, and a pressure switch to the free outlets of the fitting. The volume of the storage tank can reach 400-500 liters or even more. Thanks to this device, optimal performance will be ensured. In addition, you can store water in the storage tank in case of unforeseen situations.

Fifth step

Connect a pipe to the remaining free fitting outlet, and then run the line along the pre-leveled bottom of the dug trench straight into the house. You also need to lay a protected cable along the bottom of the pit to connect the pump and accumulator.

It is important that the outlet intended to power the above-mentioned units is properly grounded.

Sixth step

Install a shut-off valve before the pipe enters the building. It will allow you to shut off the water supply if the need arises.

Seventh step

After making sure that the external pipeline is working correctly, fill the hole and begin installing the internal wiring.

Regardless of the chosen source of water supply, it is strongly recommended that the water supply system be equipped with cleaning devices

Perform internal wiring in accordance with the previously prepared diagram. At this point, be guided by your preferences. Do everything so that in the future it will be convenient for you to use the connected water supply.

Finally, all you have to do is arrange water intake points by connecting faucets, appliances, etc.

Providing hot water supply

If you need to provide hot water supply, you can supplement your plumbing system with a water heater. There are storage and flow-through varieties of such equipment. At dachas, it is most convenient to use storage tanks.

The installation of the water heater is carried out according to the standard scheme for such equipment.

Now you know in what order the installation of the plumbing system is carried out and what needs to be taken into account for the successful implementation of all related activities. Do everything in accordance with the provisions of this guide, and your plumbing will serve well for many years.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself plumbing in a country house

The old water supply in the apartment has rotted. Sweat on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water and then turn it on again - rust pours out of the taps. And there are plans to renovate the kitchen and bathroom, and the old pipes are scary to look at, let alone touch or breathe. It needs to be changed, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment water supply with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits or registrations. You will only need to negotiate with the DEZ mechanic to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; Most likely, you will be able to handle it in about 10 minutes. Or warn your neighbors, if not harmful, and shut it off/restart it yourself.

Replacement procedure

Replacement of the water supply system is carried out in a certain sequence. Work “by eye” and “as you go” when done unprofessionally often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Selection of material for new pipes.
2. Selecting a hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of pipe diameter according to the selected material and design.
5. Preparing the installation tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembling sampling and accounting units, installing them on risers and registering.
8. Dismantling old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (required with HMS).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

GMS, flask filter and aquastop

The HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, transforms impurities in water into a thin suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply or maintenance during operation, but it does require the installation of an antimagnetic water meter (these are more expensive) and, following the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first collects sludge, the second removes chlorine, and the third carries out fine water purification and softening. The latter (no one drinks tap water for a long time) is especially important for the boiler of a washing machine.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - don’t be indignant, but drinking water remains firmly in the top ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs capable of bringing its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not expected. In general, saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply or maintenance, but its function is different. When there is a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an antimagnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new water supply system in an apartment begins with the selection of pipes. Steel has outlived its usefulness in everyday life, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and soldered copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most critical - the wrong choice will negate all efforts, expenses and hassle.

Copper

One thing you can say right away about copper water pipes is that their promoters don’t know what they’re talking about. Or they know, but don’t set it for themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, humans need copper, but in insignificant quantities in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper and chlorine form a protective film from water. Absurd for anyone who even remembers school chemistry.

Secondly, copper solder contains tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into another, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, friable powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly yourself.

Metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but you can connect them with your own hands without experience. Metal-plastic water supply is assembled on special threaded units with gaskets or crimp fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure losses in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press pliers and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, the work is easy, and using improvised means is a complete guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time the joint begins to drip. Therefore, it is unacceptable to bury metal-plastic in walls, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in grooves.

It is recommended to install metal-plastic water pipes in separate open areas, where minimal resistance to water flow and the ability to simply and quickly repair the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment water supply has now become a standard, but there are different plastics. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Maintains temperature up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Quite expensive. Used for installing heated floors.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water supply you need polyethylene reinforced pipes; ordinary polyethylene no longer holds 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so there is still the possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the least of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice plug bursts them apart, and when it melts, they shrink again and don’t burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of polyethylene water supply is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground areas. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is necessary.

PVC

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are quite well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very durable and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, are more fragile than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC is, of course, more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: by heating the joint with a household hairdryer, the joint can be pulled apart and then glued back together. In general, this is a budget option or for a novice craftsman, with the length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest water collection point no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 extraction points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying residential water supply pipes with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, correctly soldered holds up to 12 at. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but still the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages to doing it yourself:

• It does not glue, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. A tile walled up in a wall or hidden in a groove can bend and break, so when laying each pipe you need to put on a stocking made of Merylon or synthetic padding, which makes the work more expensive.

However, today the propylene pipeline is the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in lower temperatures (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Soldering propylene

Soldering cut end-to-end with a homemade soldering iron (iron) (see figure on the right) is unacceptable:

1. Contaminants accumulate on the “sausage” inside, and a pipeline assembled in this way is more susceptible to clogging than a steel one.
2. The water pressure, pushing the pipes apart, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is exceeded, and the joint leaks.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The fairly high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is not suitable for anything else, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, there is no need to buy it; it is better to rent it.

• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment, in grooves or monolithic, it is definitely propylene.
• For long branches with a large number of water points - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
• For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. – polyethylene.
• For budget repairs or in areas with water shortages, low pressure in the water supply, and poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Comb collectors

There are two schemes for indoor water collection: sequential and parallel. In a sequential scheme, the disassembly points are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of analysis points and/or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces the pressure.

In this case, water collection is done according to a parallel circuit from the “comb” collector, see Fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its own disassembly point. Valves regulate pressure separately at points. The branches on the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in one piece they are quite reliable.

Development of a water collection scheme

You need a water supply diagram in an apartment first of all for yourself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example, in the large picture there is a water supply diagram for a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace pipes in an apartment, you don’t need to bother so much; it’s enough that the diagram is clearly visible and understandable:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Shut-off valves.
5. Parsing points indicating consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

In order for all this to be clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be followed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see Fig. On the left - more or less ok, but with some comments, on the right - incorrect:

• The diagram on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​​​the actual location of the analysis points: the washing machine and the boiler come out under the floor.
• There are also too many arrows indicating current where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the diagram.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted unclearly and not according to the rules.
• There, the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the low tide?
• But in the diagram on the left, it is clear even to a non-specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup one. The comment will be: “Where is the check valve when it’s hot? Without it, when the supply stops, the boiler will drive itself into a hot riser if valve (10) is not closed.” But this is essentially the case and with full understanding.

Correct simplified diagram of plumbing in an apartment

An example of an arbitrary, not according to the rules for drawing up design documentation, but a completely clear and no-nonsense water collection scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of parallel water withdrawal; where the combs are, it’s clear.

Pipe calculation

Before you finally select the pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not needed for “smartness” - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, too small a diameter of the water supply pipe will cause turbulence of the flow in it. In this case, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet the tap will barely ooze.

Accurate calculation of the pipeline is a matter for highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, so that it flows normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum permissible pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of 16 mm propylene pipe – 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss per unit of fittings and fittings for apartment wiring is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the sampling and metering unit – 0.25 at.
5. At normal pressure values ​​at the entrance to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm in a 12 mm pipe, periodic turbulization is inevitable, but in 16 mm pipes it is not observed.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least twofold.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with sequential wiring, such a popular pipe will have enough pressure for the farthest tap or whether you will have to take a wider and more expensive one. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from a pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate the neighbors based on the same 0.6 atm/floor: if, say, three floors up the taps are still flowing, then we have a good 2 atm. But in high-rise buildings this trick does not work: in order not to increase the cost of apartment wiring excessively, they make separate risers for the lower and upper floors and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: second floor of a nine-story building; Residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 atm of pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm losses. This is too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take a main pipe of 20-25 mm, or route it in a parallel pattern from the comb, otherwise you may remain “dry” in the dry summer weather.

Note: from here it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable it is to lengthen them and clutter them with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is nonlinear: they depend on the flow speed, which, in turn, depends on the cross-section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe sharply reduces losses, so the usual wiring for apartments with a 20 mm pipe with bends to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage systems of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that in this regard there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) " The correct one is the latest SNiP.

Tools, materials, dismantling old

Special tools for assembling residential pipelines are described above. To purchase materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity locally. Dismantling old pipes is done in the usual ways. It is better to do this after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not use valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you urgently need to close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. The round, grooved handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slip on them.

Accounting and control

The sampling and metering unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each device indicates the direction of water flow for it; it must be observed during assembly.

The unit is assembled with waterproofing of the connections using FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having first shut off the water; Before supplying water, you must remember to close the shut-off valve. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, that requires turning off the water supply to the neighbors on the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. Meter readings must be clearly readable without any additional operations (removing the hatch, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble part of a solid pipeline, sometimes in a rather bizarre configuration, to connect the metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transition couplings from plastic to metal MPV - an internal threaded coupling. The plastic is connected to the metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

Meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is there (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one can get into the meter and twist or file anything there. The factory seal must be protected; Without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

To install water meters, you need to notify the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives; the inspector does not need zero readings; he will record the initial ones and seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water according to consumption will be made after registration of metering devices.

GMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow water to be stolen with its help, and this device is not subject to sealing, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter’s turbine can become clogged with sludge. The HMS with a bulb filter is connected after the metering devices; filter - immediately after the GMS. Aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but there is no point in placing the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: overview of layout options for water supply elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we're doing the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has features of a non-construction nature, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should extend no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before pipe laying begins.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MPB angles under the mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws and dowels. When fastening, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without extensive construction experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet pipes flush with the wall. It is better to make them in advance PROTECTING above the finished wall by half the width of the side of the decorative faucet caps: if the caps are non-adjustable, they can be easily adjusted using an emery wheel or manually on an emery block.

The next point is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble them on a table and place them entirely in grooves. But then the question arises: how to install pipes through the walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all made of detachable fittings, and for soldered pipes two methods can be proposed:

• Using MRN/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the grooves you can make removable hatches for inspection and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. For this you need a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work with cotton gloves so as not to accidentally get burned.

The fourth point is soldering. One soldering requires 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm, etc.

The fifth point is bending metal-plastic pipes. The minimum permissible bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it far exceed the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor, rusted steel pipe.

And finally... This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the water supply system is put into operation. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are closed immediately after installing the pipes, and the pipes are additionally plugged.

Video: example of an installed water supply system

Bottom line

Now you know how to make your own plumbing. Let us emphasize that this work is not difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence or hackwork.